Thanks! Glad this was of help to you. And again, credit to IMRROcom for the shell removal idea - that's where I got it from! th-cam.com/video/qJw8lU4zN9k/w-d-xo.html
I know this is an old video. You did a very good job explaining how to put the new micro train coupler in. Except for the fact that you don't need to remove the body. A pair of tweezers and a small screw driver and your down in about 2 minutes.
Thanks, that was very helpful. The Kato couplers weren't compatible with those on most of my rolling stock; many had magne-matic couplers. Problem solved in a few minutes.
I've been looking for the 2003s for my ES44AC on line, and at the Micro Trains web site, and can't find them anywhere. Can you show me what the full number for those couplers are?
Yes, my Kato Dash-9 does too. I thought it was broken or something. I discovered that the 2004 coupler was too high for the rear, so I used a 2003 (actually I assembled a 1015 in a 2004 draft gear box - same thing). But I used a 2004 in the front.
I have to agree with the Kato couplers.. I've had problems with all of mine not either coupling or stay coupled.. I'm going to replace all of them.. Thanks for the tip..
Ive found that sometimes I have to take an exacto knife and shave just a minute amount on each side of the slot on the Kato coupler slot. Once I get the coupler in their it works great!!! I use to have a technician replace the couplers but now I do it myself. I save a good $20 doing this. The tech charges $15 a locomotive and that doesn't include the shipping cost and the wait.
I'm installing the Micro Trains couple hours on all my equipment and I'm having difficulty with the life like 0-6-0 Tank Engine. I think the locomotive was manufactured in the late 70's or a 80'. Any advice is welcome.
c boswell Honestly, I'm not familiar with older N scale or Life-Like products. Those are truck-mounted couplers, correct? I know Life-Like never made any couplers that were body-mounted on anything. You might want to ask around in the N scale internet forums like nscale.net or trainboard.com.
Glad to hear! I, too, am a former HO scaler - I converted in 2006. I enjoy the hobby much more now as an N scaler! I would also recommend joining the forums at nscale.net - they've been a great help to me when I started out in N scale.
Overall I feel the Fox Valley Model locomotives are the top of the line for N-Scale although I haven't tried Broad Limited yet. FVM has the intelligence to install the MT couplers. I feel this is what Kato should be doing.
Hey there mikerossscuba - have you ever heard of the saying "if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all"? I was able to get the necessary data from his GREAT video even though it wasn't perfect. Where are your videos at?
The Brass piece made the Kato coupler flip from side to side and I am thinking it had something to do with the magnetic couple concept. I personally prefer the Micro-Train couplers they work ALLOT better.
Ashis Mukerjea: You don't need the brass spring clip from the old coupler anymore after you installed the new coupler. Only the plastic bracket clip is needed.
Dont use the cheap Kato C-bracket to snap the coupler back in. The MT couplers come with the tiny screws please use these instead. This works WAY better. Also their is NO reason to pop the chassis off, you can replace the couplers without doing this.
The problem with the screws is that the heads stick out. I have no problem with the Kato clips. After all, the MT draft gear boxes fit on tightly. Just remember to seal them with either CA or touch them with a needle-point, low-wattage solder. As for popping the chassis, it's a proven method, never had a problem. I feel more nervous trying to remove the shell by hand.
I bow to you, sir! Just the right video and just the right time! And that trick to remove the chassis is fantastic!!
Thanks! Glad this was of help to you. And again, credit to IMRROcom for the shell removal idea - that's where I got it from! th-cam.com/video/qJw8lU4zN9k/w-d-xo.html
I know this is an old video. You did a very good job explaining how to put the new micro train coupler in. Except for the fact that you don't need to remove the body. A pair of tweezers and a small screw driver and your down in about 2 minutes.
Thank you for the informative video......I'm ordering the required Micro-Trains couplers to convert all my Kato locomotives now.
Respect is due! I use your shell removal method all the time!
Thanks, that was very helpful. The Kato couplers weren't compatible with those on most of my rolling stock; many had magne-matic couplers. Problem solved in a few minutes.
Shell removal trick priceless!
Thank you
I've been looking for the 2003s for my ES44AC on line, and at the Micro Trains web site, and can't find them anywhere. Can you show me what the full number for those couplers are?
The product number for the Micro-Trains 2003 is 001 02 015.
Nicely done, very concise and clear.
Yes, my Kato Dash-9 does too. I thought it was broken or something. I discovered that the 2004 coupler was too high for the rear, so I used a 2003 (actually I assembled a 1015 in a 2004 draft gear box - same thing). But I used a 2004 in the front.
What happened to little brass piece? Don't need it?
I have to agree with the Kato couplers.. I've had problems with all of mine not either coupling or stay coupled.. I'm going to replace all of them.. Thanks for the tip..
Ive found that sometimes I have to take an exacto knife and shave just a minute amount on each side of the slot on the Kato coupler slot. Once I get the coupler in their it works great!!! I use to have a technician replace the couplers but now I do it myself. I save a good $20 doing this. The tech charges $15 a locomotive and that doesn't include the shipping cost and the wait.
Does the back of your loco shell pull up if you pull on it, my dash nine does
Want to change the kato couplers on an Amtrak ACS 64. Got any suggestions? Thanks
is it possible to put rapido couplers on these kato locomotives if they have not been installed already?
I need info on removing a broken rapido coupler on an old kato F7A. The front one... It’s an old model not made any more. If anyone can help thx
I'm installing the Micro Trains couple hours on all my equipment and I'm having difficulty with the life like 0-6-0 Tank Engine. I think the locomotive was manufactured in the late 70's or a 80'.
Any advice is welcome.
c boswell Honestly, I'm not familiar with older N scale or Life-Like products. Those are truck-mounted couplers, correct? I know Life-Like never made any couplers that were body-mounted on anything. You might want to ask around in the N scale internet forums like nscale.net or trainboard.com.
Very good video. Great information and instruction. I'm just going into N scale from HO. This is going to come in handy. Thanks.
Glad to hear! I, too, am a former HO scaler - I converted in 2006. I enjoy the hobby much more now as an N scaler! I would also recommend joining the forums at nscale.net - they've been a great help to me when I started out in N scale.
Thanks. Do we put that brass piece back after installing the plastic clip?
No, it's no longer needed if you're using Micro Trains couplers.
Are the 2004 the best ones for SD70ace
Yes, I use the 2004 for both ends of all my Kato SD70ACe locos.
Great thank you
I was told to use a 1015 in the newer vintage Dash-9. Can you verify this?
Thanks for posting the video!
Is there a website that gives the suggested MTL couplers for Kato, Atlas, and Bev-Bel locomotives?
Yes MicroTrains Site has a Conversion PDF
Overall I feel the Fox Valley Model locomotives are the top of the line for N-Scale although I haven't tried Broad Limited yet. FVM has the intelligence to install the MT couplers. I feel this is what Kato should be doing.
Can I do it without removing shell?
My es44ac has ditch lights can I still take off shell?
You can, it's just a lot easier to do when the shell is off. If you're not careful, you might have little parts fall into the chassis.
Hey there mikerossscuba - have you ever heard of the saying "if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all"? I was able to get the necessary data from his GREAT video even though it wasn't perfect. Where are your videos at?
So....you're saying that we can't criticise someone's video, unless we have a video of our own up that is better?
The Brass piece made the Kato coupler flip from side to side and I am thinking it had something to do with the magnetic couple concept. I personally prefer the Micro-Train couplers they work ALLOT better.
The brass piece is just a spring. The magnetic part is the "air hose" at the bottom.
Thanx! That was very helpful.
Ashis Mukerjea: You don't need the brass spring clip from the old coupler anymore after you installed the new coupler. Only the plastic bracket clip is needed.
IMRROcom, Who is that guy, Thanks
I add some Foam or a Hankey to the Bottom of my upper Cover before I drop my Engine so as to not do any Damage to the Engine..
I use the 1015 on my trains and I have no issues. Shell removal the way he does it works just fine.
Just dont get too violent just a tap will do it.
The one I want to change is on the rear truck...
It's a Kato E8
@@HNewton48 Is this a truck-mounted coupler?
@@metroredline Yes. It's the rear coupler on a Kato E8
@@HNewton48 Thanks. Sorry, I don't have any experience with truck-mounted loco couplers.
Dont use the cheap Kato C-bracket to snap the coupler back in. The MT couplers come with the tiny screws please use these instead. This works WAY better. Also their is NO reason to pop the chassis off, you can replace the couplers without doing this.
The problem with the screws is that the heads stick out. I have no problem with the Kato clips. After all, the MT draft gear boxes fit on tightly. Just remember to seal them with either CA or touch them with a needle-point, low-wattage solder. As for popping the chassis, it's a proven method, never had a problem. I feel more nervous trying to remove the shell by hand.
sorry, but you're out of focus
Uh, it was from an old Flip cam, dude. Deal with it.
out of focus, dude
Tell that to the Flip cam I used when I filmed that.