Hi Brian, one of the benefits of this site is this posting board. I leave the comments up as I believe others can get good advice from other knowledgeable people. You make some really good comments taking the viewers a lot deeper than intended. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I used to sharpen(?) drill until now in a wrong way- it used to get over heated while drilling. After watching this video I can sharpen it very well. Thanks for showing us how to do it.
Over the weekend I was attempting to drill 5/8" holes through 3'8" steel and my bit wasn't cutting. I even used a step bit to get the hole started, but its steps weren't deep enough to cut all the way through the 3/8" thick steel. After wasting several hours trying to get the bit sharpened, I found this video. I had the basic concept, but was missing some of the finer aspects. After watching the video twice, I was back in business after following its sharpening procedure. I had the bit pretty screwed up with my grinding prior to watching this. Thank you for the excellent explanation and demonstration. I had watched several shorter videos and their explanations and method of grinding weren't working for me.
I'm glad you liked it...I feel our trade is changing and some of the skills are being lost. This is one of the reasons why I am doing this. I have had the same job interview and when I hire an apprentice I get them to spend time sharpening drill bits. Thanks for your post and good luck with your retirement!
I've struggled with this for years. Numerous people have shown me but I always end up with a drill 1/4" long and then throw it in the bin! I'm off to practice now! Thanks!
For a less skilled tradesperson the drill doctor gets the job done. Someone who had mastered off-hand grinding can do an equal job in less time, essential for efficient production. Gives more pride and job satisfaction, plus gives you grounds to ask for, and deserve, a higher pay rate. (Assuming those things are important to you).
Hello Manila, I'm glad you found this useful and can now show others. The raised section on the outside of the drill is the margin this provides the proper diameter of the drill. If it wasn't so narrow the drill would likely jam in the hole and quit turning. Check out the video on parts of a drill. Thanks for your post my friend.
Sounds like you have lots of experience sharpening drills. Chucking small drills is a nice touch acting like a pin vice. Silicon carbide is used on carbide and non-ferrous material and you are absolutely right avoid breathing the dust! An abrasive stick works great for wheel dressing; I will often use it to dress a form or shape on a grinding wheel. Thanks for the post!
I gotta sharpen 2" drills for work. Sometimes drilling a hole 14" deep. So I know I can sharpen a drill well. I can do it by eye, but for the deep holes I use the drill gauge to make sure. Drills under 1/8 are tricky to grind and drills wider than the wheel are tricky too
Thank You--I am 2 years from retirement and was browsing TH-cam showing my wife how we used to sharpen drill bits. I remember being taught exactly the same way shown in the video, and teaching new trainees the same method. It used to be a standard question in a job interview for machinist positions: " Do you know how to sharpen your own tool bits and sharpen drills? Are you willing to prove it or show me?" Thank You
I used the Drill Doctor to sharpen my old HSS, titanium, and cobalt drills. When new a 3/8 in. drill will directly drill into 1/4 in steel plate no problems. After sharpening, the drill won't even drill a hole into 1/16 in. sheet metal. I believe the tempered edge is removed from the bit during the sharpening process, rendering the bit useless. But the Drill Doctor won't grind off your finger, like an open grinding stone. Jeez.
Thank you very much for this great explanation! I have a drill doctor that sharpens bits up to 3/4". But larger bits I have just been mutilating them They are expensive! I can't wait to use your method. Certain it will work. Thanks again!
As a student of the Man behind Machiningmoments. I will add this statement. We deal with alot of nitronic 40/50. Which is a very hard nickel based stainless steel. No matter what angle the darex drill sharpener is set too...we cannot get more than .500" in d.o.c. before we have to resharpen. YET...when we sharpen the drill by hand, which results in an ugly, YET, accurate drill point. We get closer to 1.0 - 1.5''. @ 118deg depth of cut....i agree with Kingdon. He's a good machinist.
Great video. The 30 dislikes were probably the same knuckleheads in my machining class that after 2 days and a dozen trashed drill bits STILL couldn't sharpen one! LOL. It took me a couple hours to get the hang of it, but it's a good skill to have.
That bench grinder I use only for drill bits (and the occasional TIG tungsten....). As a fabricator who drills all of my many holes (no ironworker punch in my shop), sharp bits are essential....For smaller bits, when using the air drill, I just leave them chucked up in the air drill to sharpen. Makes it easier to hang onto them and be accurate.
I do it very much like you do. My bench grinder has a "v groove" on the right hand side tool rest (where the fine grit wheel is, and just like where you marked with the permanent marker). The groove gives me that perfect 59 degree edge angle just by resting the bit in it and spinning it against the wheel. That leaves me with no "relief" angle, which is then cut back by rocking the bit up and down on the coarse wheel just like you do. Large bits are easier than smaller ones.
I prefer a medium grit wheel for sharpening, then finish up with a fine grit wheel or belt sander. To square up my wheels, I use an old broken hammer drill bit. The carbide tip makes nice work of the wheel face.
I have had good success with a 118deg HSS drill. Two things come to mind, if you are drilling aluminum sheet the diameter of the drill must be in the material before the point breaks through or you will lose your center. If this is an issue you could use a hole saw if it is a large diameter or a neat trick is to drill between two pieces of plywood (works great for shimstock). Second aluminum is gummy, A-9 works good, I have also used kerosene but beware of fire hazards. Hope this helps, thanks
@Plutonion2 Yes, it takes a bit of practice. Masonry drill bits are typically carbide tipped and have a steeper included angle (135-150 deg) so move shank closer to perpendicular to grinding wheel face. Because of the carbide tip it requires to be ground using a silicone carbide grinding wheel (or diamond). Be aware of grinding dust and use protective equipment! Thanks for the note, I will try to put a video on for you.
Yes I like the medium and finishing up with the fine also. I use a diamond for dressing. Use care with the carbide the dust is not healthy. Thanks for the post.
Simple tip - Weld 2 nuts together and you now have a drill guage to test the cutting angle. It will be 120 degrees which is pretty close to 118 degrees for all normal drilling purposes.
The most common problem (without seeing the drill bit) is the cutting edge is lower than the heal (part behind the cutting edge). Hold the chucking end of the drill vertically and place a straight edge (6" rule) at right angle to the cutting edge and at right angle (horizontal) to the vertical drill. Does the straight edge touch the cutting edge or behind it on the heal?
im a 53yo DIY buff from manila..now i know why i break a lot of bits..i was doing it all wrong..thanks a lot buddy,,now i can teach guys like me how to do it right..and save on bits as well..btw..what is that raised ridge on the outside edge of the bit for..?my old set has them and i dont have an idea what are they for..more power to you Maestro...MABUHAY.!
Well, I use LPS Tapmatic AquaCut. I generally don't drill over 1/2" diameter with a jobbers length twist drill. Anything bigger I drill 1/2" or bigger then bore and/or ream the hole. My hole tolerances are generally around .003 (or better) in position and diameter. I use a good center drill (combined drill/countersink), spotting drill or stub length drill bit. Generally, I usually drill .015" undersize and ream because I do really care about the quality of my holes.
PART 1 In a machine shop time is money & sharpening drills by hand is archaic. I've been a machinist for 25 years & hated sharpening drills because the geometry required for them has to be precise; it's rare you get it the first time. Sharpening by hand is akin to trig: no one uses it because CNC and CAD does it for you. There are some things not worth your time and getting a good drill sharpener is a must. Yes, they are expensive but those who make these machines do not determine reality.
Frikin drills, everything i learned so easy. And the drills gave me nightmares. Now, well now everyone brings their drills to me for resharpening. It takes really allot of practice to be able to do it properly
Using a Cristen drill sharpening machine, Swiss-made, i could point a small carbide drill with a primary cutting edge and secondary clearance edge, in 30 sec.s. I did this all the time, when running my Swiss Automatic Bechler and Tornos machines. Old School Rules!
The problem is the same with the cheap drill sharpening tools one can buy at many stores. If one sees the expensive drill sharpening tools one will see something different. One must grind two reliefs/clearances in the flank of a drill. One relief/clearance for the circular motion and another clearance for the vertical/longitudinal motion. One might get away with not having both clearances on soft material but on hard material one will burn up the drill for it will not dig into the material. One has to move the drill in two directions to get the right clearance. One needs a downward motion and a very little outward motion.
Yes if the cutting edge is left "positive" the drill will pull right through brass. The cutting edge needs to be flat (neutral) or negative. Thanks for the post.
Part 2 If it touches the heal the grinder is grinding the drill past horizontal to the body of the drill. In other words the chucking end is too high from the floor. Hope this is some help. Thanks for the note.
Clearly you are knowledgeable about the art of sharpening a twist drill. My only suggestion would be this: when showing us detail, e.g. the twist drill against the drill gauage, pull it away from the grinder and put it over a light-colored background so we can see how the two mate-up with each other. IT's too hard to differentiate the two with a very dark background. Othewise you are very good at explaining how to to this nearly lost art. And I agree that this should be known!
I have a large chunk of coarse grit silicon carbide abrasive that gets used for dressing the bench grinder wheels. The same material is used for grinding concrete and masonry. You can save an old worn out concrete grinding wheel as a tool for dressing your bench grinder's wheels with. Rest it on the tool rest and clean and true your wheels beautifully. Don't breathe the dust from that!
Listen to that drill bit bounce! Look at the grinding wheel as it stops. It's as round as my head! Roughly balance it b4 tightening ( not easy to do ) and then dress and repeat if necessary. Like you would with a larger grinding wheel for a Surface/Cyl grinder b4 balancing it prior to first dressing.
In my experience with HSS lathe tools, if I overheat the cutting edge (discolors), it will dull quickly. That is just at oxidation temperatures, I have not taken one to incandescent temperatures. I might try it some time, would sure speed up grinding a new tool from a blank.
Really good video thanks .I never could sharpen a drill bit by hand its actally very tricky,now I have this vid as a ref I can practice .( can you do one for sharpening other types of bits to ? Masonary bit's and also those Bosch multiconstruction bits which look a bit similar to masonary bits .Thank you
Hi Jeff, the problem with grinding the drill upside down is you can't see the cutting edge. Also you are "on edge grinding" which is an issue for the cutting edge. Not only do you need to consider the drill angle but also the clearances, this would be difficult with a power drill and dangerous. With a bit of practice you will be grinding drills for precise holes in no time!
It "Greek" to me. This is one of the best videos I have seen on sharpening a drill. Well done. The amount of skill required is huge. So I cheated and bought a DBS-22 for my Tormek. Its expensive but lets me produce a useable sharp drill. I still have a go on a grinder from time to time especially with smaller drill bits. Do you face off the cutting edge of your drills for cutting brass to stop them grabbing? Regards
![ถามตรงๆ กับ อาจตุพร ทำไม ประเทศไทย ใครเป็นนายก ก็โดนด่า พอออกเเล้วคนคิดถึง!!?? l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3YFLMXxBGAs/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Brian, one of the benefits of this site is this posting board. I leave the comments up as I believe others can get good advice from other knowledgeable people. You make some really good comments taking the viewers a lot deeper than intended. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I used to sharpen(?) drill until now in a wrong way- it used to get over heated while drilling. After watching this video I can sharpen it very well. Thanks for showing us how to do it.
These videos aren't going to be for everyone, I'm glad you found it useful. Thank you so much for taking the time to leave a post.
Just one of those things I've always struggled with, but I just want to say your video is one of the clearest presentations I've viewed. Thanks
My pleasure.
Over the weekend I was attempting to drill 5/8" holes through 3'8" steel and my bit wasn't cutting. I even used a step bit to get the hole started, but its steps weren't deep enough to cut all the way through the 3/8" thick steel. After wasting several hours trying to get the bit sharpened, I found this video. I had the basic concept, but was missing some of the finer aspects. After watching the video twice, I was back in business after following its sharpening procedure. I had the bit pretty screwed up with my grinding prior to watching this. Thank you for the excellent explanation and demonstration. I had watched several shorter videos and their explanations and method of grinding weren't working for me.
I'm glad it worked for you. I really appreciate hearing that these videos help people. Thank you.
I'm glad you liked it...I feel our trade is changing and some of the skills are being lost. This is one of the reasons why I am doing this. I have had the same job interview and when I hire an apprentice I get them to spend time sharpening drill bits. Thanks for your post and good luck with your retirement!
I'm so glad this was useful to you. Thanks for your post. Good luck drilling!
I've struggled with this for years. Numerous people have shown me but I always end up with a drill 1/4" long and then throw it in the bin!
I'm off to practice now! Thanks!
Glad to hear it and thanks for your note, you just made my day! The larger the drill the easier it is.
For a less skilled tradesperson the drill doctor gets the job done. Someone who had mastered off-hand grinding can do an equal job in less time, essential for efficient production. Gives more pride and job satisfaction, plus gives you grounds to ask for, and deserve, a higher pay rate. (Assuming those things are important to you).
This has to be the best "hand sharpening" video on the net! ^_^
Hello Manila, I'm glad you found this useful and can now show others. The raised section on the outside of the drill is the margin this provides the proper diameter of the drill. If it wasn't so narrow the drill would likely jam in the hole and quit turning. Check out the video on parts of a drill. Thanks for your post my friend.
Hand sharpening is not easy. These machines are helpful for people who are not comfortable sharpening by hand.
Sounds like you have lots of experience sharpening drills. Chucking small drills is a nice touch acting like a pin vice. Silicon carbide is used on carbide and non-ferrous material and you are absolutely right avoid breathing the dust! An abrasive stick works great for wheel dressing; I will often use it to dress a form or shape on a grinding wheel. Thanks for the post!
I gotta sharpen 2" drills for work. Sometimes drilling a hole 14" deep. So I know I can sharpen a drill well. I can do it by eye, but for the deep holes I use the drill gauge to make sure. Drills under 1/8 are tricky to grind and drills wider than the wheel are tricky too
Thank You--I am 2 years from retirement and was browsing TH-cam showing my wife how we used to sharpen drill bits. I remember being taught exactly the same way shown in the video, and teaching new trainees the same method.
It used to be a standard question in a job interview for machinist positions: " Do you know how to sharpen your own tool bits and sharpen drills? Are you willing to prove it or show me?" Thank You
I used the Drill Doctor to sharpen my old HSS, titanium, and cobalt drills.
When new a 3/8 in. drill will directly drill into 1/4 in steel plate no problems. After sharpening, the drill won't even drill a hole into 1/16 in. sheet metal. I believe the tempered edge is removed from the bit during the sharpening process, rendering the bit useless. But the Drill Doctor won't grind off your finger, like an open grinding stone. Jeez.
Thank you very much for this great explanation! I have a drill doctor that sharpens bits up to 3/4". But larger bits I have just been mutilating them They are expensive! I can't wait to use your method. Certain it will work. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful!
As a student of the Man behind Machiningmoments. I will add this statement. We deal with alot of nitronic 40/50. Which is a very hard nickel based stainless steel. No matter what angle the darex drill sharpener is set too...we cannot get more than .500" in d.o.c. before we have to resharpen. YET...when we sharpen the drill by hand, which results in an ugly, YET, accurate drill point. We get closer to 1.0 - 1.5''. @ 118deg depth of cut....i agree with Kingdon. He's a good machinist.
thanks a lot for sharing this great video about how to repair drill bits the perfect way.
Great video. The 30 dislikes were probably the same knuckleheads in my machining class that after 2 days and a dozen trashed drill bits STILL couldn't sharpen one! LOL. It took me a couple hours to get the hang of it, but it's a good skill to have.
Good job. This really explains how to sharpen drill bits by hand.
I'm glad it was helpful. It should be finished on a finer wheel. Thanks for your note.
You are absolutely right a grinding wheel should always be sharpened before any grinding. Thanks for your observation.
Glad it helped, thanks for the post!
Not all shops have a sharpener, good points. Thanks
Glad you liked it, thanks for stopping by!
great video, this helped me a lot, not many people above me in my shop know how to do this so i never got good training
BRAD, love watching these vids even years after.....
Sunny you ol dog, how was your holiday?
I feel it is an important skill for a machinist to know. Thanks for posting!
HI BUDDY..THANKS A LOT TO ALL THE USEFUL TIPS YOU PROVIDE TO PEOPLE LIKE ME...MORE POWER TO YOU BUDDY!
My pleasure, glad it helped! Thanks for your post.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the post.
I agree and with my eyes the Drill Doctor is helpful. Thanks for the note.
Glad it helped, thanks for taking the time to post.
Glad it helped and always appreciate hearing! Thanks
Thank you for your very kind word I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks for a clear and informative video
Thank you for watching and leaving a message.
That bench grinder I use only for drill bits (and the occasional TIG tungsten....). As a fabricator who drills all of my many holes (no ironworker punch in my shop), sharp bits are essential....For smaller bits, when using the air drill, I just leave them chucked up in the air drill to sharpen. Makes it easier to hang onto them and be accurate.
Great sugestion! Thanks for taking the time to write!
Thank You, I'm glad you stopped by.
great video thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge
My pleasure glad it helped, thanks for your post.
Excellent presentation! Thank you.
FINALLY! A definitive, well-done, informative, and useful video on this subject matter. Thank you.
Thank you, I appreciate you watching it.
I do it very much like you do. My bench grinder has a "v groove" on the right hand side tool rest (where the fine grit wheel is, and just like where you marked with the permanent marker). The groove gives me that perfect 59 degree edge angle just by resting the bit in it and spinning it against the wheel. That leaves me with no "relief" angle, which is then cut back by rocking the bit up and down on the coarse wheel just like you do. Large bits are easier than smaller ones.
If chips come out both flutes while drill that is a good sign they are close. I agree measuring a test hole is good practice. Thanks for your post.
That is really good, it takes skill to do that! Thanks for the translation.
Sharpening a drill on an angle grinder, that's skill! Sounds like wise "old guys"! Thanks for your post.
I prefer a medium grit wheel for sharpening, then finish up with a fine grit wheel or belt sander. To square up my wheels, I use an old broken hammer drill bit. The carbide tip makes nice work of the wheel face.
very good vid.... easily understood which I can't say for many many vids on YT....thanks
Glad you liked it, thanks for the note!
Sounds like you have it down, for larger drill I find a belt sander works well. Thanks for your post!
I have had good success with a 118deg HSS drill. Two things come to mind, if you are drilling aluminum sheet the diameter of the drill must be in the material before the point breaks through or you will lose your center. If this is an issue you could use a hole saw if it is a large diameter or a neat trick is to drill between two pieces of plywood (works great for shimstock). Second aluminum is gummy, A-9 works good, I have also used kerosene but beware of fire hazards. Hope this helps, thanks
@Plutonion2 Yes, it takes a bit of practice. Masonry drill bits are typically carbide tipped and have a steeper included angle (135-150 deg) so move shank closer to perpendicular to grinding wheel face. Because of the carbide tip it requires to be ground using a silicone carbide grinding wheel (or diamond). Be aware of grinding dust and use protective equipment! Thanks for the note, I will try to put a video on for you.
Yes I like the medium and finishing up with the fine also. I use a diamond for dressing. Use care with the carbide the dust is not healthy. Thanks for the post.
Ser apasionado es ok! Aprendizaje se realiza mejor cuando son fuertes sentimientos mi amigo. Me alegro de que usted escribió atrás.
I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for posting.
Simple tip - Weld 2 nuts together and you now have a drill guage to test the cutting angle. It will be 120 degrees which is pretty close to 118 degrees for all normal drilling purposes.
The most common problem (without seeing the drill bit) is the cutting edge is lower than the heal (part behind the cutting edge). Hold the chucking end of the drill vertically and place a straight edge (6" rule) at right angle to the cutting edge and at right angle (horizontal) to the vertical drill. Does the straight edge touch the cutting edge or behind it on the heal?
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡EXELENTE!!!!!!!!!!
"maestro"
Good presentation! I understood very well.
im a 53yo DIY buff from manila..now i know why i break a lot of bits..i was doing it all wrong..thanks a lot buddy,,now i can teach guys like me how to do it right..and save on bits as well..btw..what is that raised ridge on the outside edge of the bit for..?my old set has them and i dont have an idea what are they for..more power to you Maestro...MABUHAY.!
Glad it helped Neil!
Well, I use LPS Tapmatic AquaCut. I generally don't drill over 1/2" diameter with a jobbers length twist drill. Anything bigger I drill 1/2" or bigger then bore and/or ream the hole. My hole tolerances are generally around .003 (or better) in position and diameter. I use a good center drill (combined drill/countersink), spotting drill or stub length drill bit. Generally, I usually drill .015" undersize and ream because I do really care about the quality of my holes.
PART 1 In a machine shop time is money & sharpening drills by hand is archaic. I've been a machinist for 25 years & hated sharpening drills because the geometry required for them has to be precise; it's rare you get it the first time. Sharpening by hand is akin to trig: no one uses it because CNC and CAD does it for you. There are some things not worth your time and getting a good drill sharpener is a must. Yes, they are expensive but those who make these machines do not determine reality.
With those tolerances boring is the way to go! Thanks for sharing.
Frikin drills, everything i learned so easy. And the drills gave me nightmares.
Now, well now everyone brings their drills to me for resharpening. It takes really allot of practice to be able to do it properly
+11thboris Yes it is a skill that takes time!
excelente explicación , no me quedo muy claro el grano de la piedra en el esmeril, a la final es otra explicación.
yes, this is the proper way to grind a machine twist drill, good job.
+Jason Argone Thanks
The hex nut is a great idea! Good night, thanks.
Very thorough
Thank you
Using a Cristen drill sharpening machine, Swiss-made, i could point a small carbide drill with a primary cutting edge and secondary clearance edge, in 30 sec.s. I did this all the time, when running my Swiss Automatic Bechler and Tornos machines. Old School Rules!
When you get one that works well they are invaluable!
Good material, nicely presented.
This is a drill gauge it measures point angle and lenghth of the cutting edge. This is a hybrid it also acts as a rule and a protractor.
I went back to school to learn how to use a mill/lathe and weld. We had to learn how to sharpen a drill bit.
The problem is the same with the cheap drill sharpening tools one can buy at many stores. If one sees the expensive drill sharpening tools one will see something different. One must grind two reliefs/clearances in the flank of a drill. One relief/clearance for the circular motion and another clearance for the vertical/longitudinal motion. One might get away with not having both clearances on soft material but on hard material one will burn up the drill for it will not dig into the material. One has to move the drill in two directions to get the right clearance. One needs a downward motion and a very little outward motion.
Yes if the cutting edge is left "positive" the drill will pull right through brass. The cutting edge needs to be flat (neutral) or negative. Thanks for the post.
@ANDREWNATHAN Glad it was useful for you. Thanks for the note.
My pleasure, thanks for posting!
Use a diamond to dress the wheel and the bit will not rattle on the stone. Gives a much smoother grind.
Good demo.
Part 2 If it touches the heal the grinder is grinding the drill past horizontal to the body of the drill. In other words the chucking end is too high from the floor. Hope this is some help. Thanks for the note.
Clearly you are knowledgeable about the art of sharpening a twist drill. My only suggestion would be this: when showing us detail, e.g. the twist drill against the drill gauage, pull it away from the grinder and put it over a light-colored background so we can see how the two mate-up with each other. IT's too hard to differentiate the two with a very dark background. Othewise you are very good at explaining how to to this nearly lost art. And I agree that this should be known!
Very informative, thanks.
Convengo que prefiero acabar mi herramienta que afila en una rueda fina. La rueda del curso es grande para el desbaste. gracias
I have a large chunk of coarse grit silicon carbide abrasive that gets used for dressing the bench grinder wheels. The same material is used for grinding concrete and masonry. You can save an old worn out concrete grinding wheel as a tool for dressing your bench grinder's wheels with. Rest it on the tool rest and clean and true your wheels beautifully. Don't breathe the dust from that!
Listen to that drill bit bounce! Look at the grinding wheel as it stops. It's as round as my head! Roughly balance it b4 tightening ( not easy to do ) and then dress and repeat if necessary. Like you would with a larger grinding wheel for a Surface/Cyl grinder b4 balancing it prior to first dressing.
brilliant explanation, cheers !!
In my experience with HSS lathe tools, if I overheat the cutting edge (discolors), it will dull quickly. That is just at oxidation temperatures, I have not taken one to incandescent temperatures.
I might try it some time, would sure speed up grinding a new tool from a blank.
Thank you, I truly hope these videos help.
That is quite an endorsement! Thank you for your kind words and post.
Really good video thanks .I never could sharpen a drill bit by hand its actally very tricky,now
I have this vid as a ref I can practice .( can you do one for sharpening other types of bits to ? Masonary bit's and also those Bosch multiconstruction bits which look a bit similar to masonary bits .Thank you
It's a good video about the twist drill bits~
Kevin Jiang Glad you like it!
Because I produce twist drill bit,so I pleasure these videos!
Kevin Jiang Kevin, I would like to see a video of you making a twist drill.
There's so many step to manking a twist drill,so I think that I need time to upload,maybe so many vedio.
I understand.
Good point, thanks!
Hi Jeff, the problem with grinding the drill upside down is you can't see the cutting edge. Also you are "on edge grinding" which is an issue for the cutting edge. Not only do you need to consider the drill angle but also the clearances, this would be difficult with a power drill and dangerous. With a bit of practice you will be grinding drills for precise holes in no time!
It "Greek" to me. This is one of the best videos I have seen on sharpening a drill. Well done. The amount of skill required is huge. So I cheated and bought a DBS-22 for my Tormek. Its expensive but lets me produce a useable sharp drill. I still have a go on a grinder from time to time especially with smaller drill bits.
Do you face off the cutting edge of your drills for cutting brass to stop them grabbing?
Regards
OZITO this is for beginners tool if you decide to use bench grinder its a useful technic for PROS
I agree, I usually throw the little ones out.
It works well!
that is very usefull video