Great video, you have saved me hundreds of dollars, straight and to the point, one of the best videos i have seen on youtube regarding any subject..thanks
Huntnfishnuts mike. I have a 2005 40hp 4stoke mercury and is giving a long beep. I changed the oil at the beginning of the season and it looks a bit milky. Any ideas?
Huntnfishnuts thanks for making that video, I just purchased a 2006 60 hp Mercury fourstroke EFI BigFoot. Your maintenance video was very well done, a lot of good info. I now feel like I know my motor better and I can do the maintenance myself. You just saved me a lot of money not having to pay someone to do it for me. So thank you very much!
I just purchased a boat with a 2013, 60 HP Big Foot. I will be winterizing it in a couple of weeks. Thanks so much for the great video tutorial. Put my mind at ease that I can handle this project no sweat. The tats look great as well:--)
Glad it was helpful to you. You don't need to fog a four stroke like you do a two stroke for storage but if your keeping it outside I would use some wd40 or another water repellent. in the cylinders just to keep your rings from rusting. Also if you put a lot of hours on it change the fluids before you store. Lots of interest in my tattoos it seems ha ha ha. Thanks for watching.
I am a marine Tech of 22 years in the biz here in Florida.. I sometimes enjoy looking at instruction marine vids and normally can rip anyone apart for giving bad info. There is so much bad info out there that can hurt the guy who does not know and is trying to save a little money just to get bad advice and hurt his cause, piss his wife off and disappoint the kids .. I have to give you a thumbs up for your maint vid.. Its correct, to the point, and simply put for the novice to understand. Well done.. The only thing I would have liked seeing more is a discussion on sacrificial anodes and saltwater effects along with the impeller service instruction.. Good vid
Gator SaW thanks for the great comment. I am not a marine tech but am an ASE master auto tech. I work on car and medium duty truck. I have trained a lot of apprentices over 21 years and applied that training explanation in the video to try and help out people with out a mechanical background. The only reason I did not cover info on the anodes on the engine is that I do not run my boat in salt or brackish water only freshwater fishing for me.
I would go ahead and change both fuel filters while doing a service. To disconnect the lines you just press down on the red tabs and pop the one filter off then unscrew the other fuel plastic bowl and replace the element. Real easy to do. It's also a good idea to run the engine and see how the water pump is doing by watching the pee hole spraying the water out. If it's been sitting awhile they may dry rot and not put out water like they should. Good videos on youtube on changing the impeller out. Very good detailed video on the oil. Thanks for the share.
Just got a boat actually the one in the video looks just like mine thanks for the video now I know how to do some maintenance good luck on you fishing have a good weekend
Tell you what, this makes it looks so easy. I know some about motors, but not a lot. But this I can do and save a little cash to enjoy more time on the water. thanks for the post.
Good video on the oil and gear lube changes. Do you have a video on where everywhere to lube with the 2-4-C Lubricant, as well as all of the zirk fittings?
Great video, your Merc is a little larger than mine... lol, I have a 2014 4 hp 4 stroke short shaft! I use it for fishing with my square stern canoe and 12 and 14 foot aluminum boats. It burns very little fuel and is reasonably quiet. Good luck on the water!
Thanks Dave. I love my Mercury. Never given me a bit of trouble. I have run 2 strokes before but the 4 is much quieter also easier starting in cold weather. Now time for some fishing videos.
Overall great video! Good explanations, good shots. Note, the engine must be vertical when filling/checking the engine oil and gearcase oil on every outboard that I am aware of. The outboard shown in this video is trimmed out some, and that is incorrect. Is it the end of the world to be trimmed a little? No, but the correct position is vertical with the anti cav parallel to a level ground. Another note, some outboards require a different procedure to drain the engine oil. My 2017 Mercury 9.9, for example, you must tilt out all the way to drain the engine oil. Then replace the screw. Tilt in and wait a couple minutes. Tilt back out and drain the rest. Refer to your manual for specific procedures for engine oil draining, as they are not all the same.
Ralph B thanks for watching and commenting. I'm prepping my boat now for this season but that's a good idea to cover winterizing the engine. Might do one on trailer maintenance too. Thanks for the idea
Good video. Just what i'm looking for. The only difference is mine's a 2005, but shouldn't be much different. Do you advise changing the fuel filter? and if so, how often? Thanks for the great info.
DaxM yes it’s a good idea to change your fuel filter. The frequency will depend on a lot of variables. Because I live in the north I have shorted open water seasons so once every 2 years is fine for me but if you run the boat all year or put a lot of hours on the engine I would change it more frequently. I would also add a fuel additive or stabilizer if your going to store the boat for any length of time.
Thanks Gonzo. Yeah that boat is my baby. Knock on wood I've owned this boat from new for 5 years and I have never had any problems. I had issues with my other boat and it just takes away from your fishing time. Hard enough to get out.
Thank you for the excellent video. I have an exact same engine as yours. I like to ask if your engine collects any salt residue after each outing under the last spark plug. There a path/opening from side to side. There is a hose connected to a fitting that I believe it leaks there on my engine. I'm not sure if I can replace the fitting. Any idea? Thank you for your help.
One suggestion! If I may? When draining ant fluid start by removing the vent or top screw, or cap! This way if for any reason the top plug is frozen closed, you haven't drained the oil or fluid out and have a critical situation on your hands, where now TOP PLUG ( screw etc.) HAS TO COME OFF! You made me think of it when you said differential!? Nice video!
Super video, thanks! Just a couple of observations/questions really. On the bottom end: When filling, I have the feeling that the trim should be neutral, rather than slightly up, to be sure it all drains, and also for adequate refill? Should we buy new gaskets each time? On the top end: You don't say to put the drain plug back in, for a newbie, this might be an important, well needed step; Also when checking the oil level, I would say it is important for the trim to be neutral again (level), as the previous tip had the raised trim to allow for the funnel to stay in place --- might want to mention to set trim level even before checking the dip stick and lastly, I believe the oil filter should be hand tight as possible, and then an extra 1/2 turn with the wrench. Just my 2 cents. Thanks again!
Yes, the bottom leg needs to be straight north and south, not tilted, when you refill. Mercury says you can reuse the yellow seals as long as they are not ripped. No need to buy the expensive "mercury" oil or filter. SAE oil is oil. Good old fashioned regular car motor oil will work in the crankcase.
Good video! Thanks! I used it to do my first oil change on my Mercury 60hp 4 stroke. But I think you need to screw the filter a bit more using a wrench to prenvent leaking. The owners manual recommend tightening it 3/4 to 1 extra turn. If your previous oil change was done by the dealer, you'll probably need the wrench to unscrew it, all other methods I tried didn't work for me. I've seen different ways of verifying the oil level, some people raise to engine to full extension, wait a bit then bring it back straight before verifying the oil. Also owners manual recommends running the engine for 5 minutes. I would be glad to see that part, with the flusher tool. What about the vent and drain plugs casket? Do you change them often? Thanks again and good job!
Nicolas Brousseau you do not want to tighten the oil filter on with a wrench as if you do you will have a very difficult time removing it the next time you go to take it off. I have seen filters so tight that they will crush and tear before coming loose. It is also important to lube the seal on the bottom of the filter this will also aid in removal. When you run the engine it will pump oil into the filter that will remain in the filter so it will reduce your oil level on the stick bug if you have it on the max line it will not lower it by much, just make sure the engine is level when you check your oil level. When I made the video it aS already winter time here so could not use outside running water as it would freeze but you could use cups and run the engine on a garden hose then check the oil. I will do it after my first trip on the water. I would change the sealing gaskets at every 3 rd oil change as preventative maintenance.
Great video. Will help me alot on my winterizing my 50hp mercury this fall. Just one quick question, is it ok to use High Performance gear lube on a 50hp mercury? Since it's used on 75hp and higher for better lube and heat dissipate, why not use it for all sizes? Thanks again for this video.
Jalapenopinoy Production yes you can use the high performance oil which is full synthetic as long as it is the same viscosity as the oil recommended for your lover end. The advantage with sun oil is it will last longer than regular oil the disadvantage is its more expensive.
I have never changed the oil on anything before. I want to change the oil on my 4 stroke 60hp mercury motor to save money. I'm in school now and found this video but I can't listen to it yet. My question: can I do this easily by myself with no prior experience with oil changes on any type of motor?
You would want the engine level to drain and to check the oil level, I had it trimmed only to fill it as it will retain my oil funnel better when trimmed up. Always drain the oil and check the level with the engine as close to 90 degrees from the floor, hope this helps you.
Good vid ! Heard I can install a 3.5 hp 4 stroke carburetor on a 2.5 4stroke (2016) merC. can anyone confirm ? I Ordered the wrong one lol This one doesnt have a restricter but is pretty much the exact same engine so I'm guessing main difference is the jets and prob some timings Thanks in advance
great video. thnx for that. I needed to see how that was done. I also have the mercury 60hp EFI. now I have more comfidence doing my own oil change. by the way whats the torque lb per spec on all the bolts? beside the one you hand tight.
The oil drain plug for the engine oil would be between 20 to 25 ft lbs. you have to be careful as if there is oil on the threads this will change your torque as the oil reduces friction causing you to over tighten. The lower end screws I only ever hand tighten as they are small in diameter and are always covered with oil. Thanks for watching.
Hello would you know I have the same set up as you last time out. For some reason my boat in water in drive with not go above 3000 rpms but with ears on preform fine
Great video. I'm looking at buying a 2015 90 HP command thrust on a bayliner, and I have heard good things about Mercury motors except for one guy said he and two Mercury motor and it stayed in shop. Additionally, said they are more cold natured. Now, I don't know the specifics of those motors but I was going to ask your personal opinion on Mercury since you have one. I am anal about mainteance on all my vehicles so that will not be an issue, just curious with the right care will they hold up.
Ben Moore I have Owens this engine from new since 2011 and I have never had to take it in for repair for any mechanical problem. I do all the basic maintenance as you seen in the video. The engine has started every time I have turned the key even after 4 months of storage. When I'm on big water that engine is wide open full throttle or idling in a no wake zone and it has never let me down. After seeing and hearing how quiet my engine was my father in law sold his 115 Yamaha and bought a 150 merc and to this day he has had no mechanical problems with his. The four stroke is a little heavier than two stroke equivalent but much more reliable in cold weather starts also you dong have to buy two stroke oil to mix with the fuel. Hope this helps you on your decision. If buying a used engine I would advise you to get a marine mechanic to look at it before you buy.
Thank you for this! Looking at a 2015 Mercury 60hp 4 stroke that has under 20 hours on it. The gentleman that owns it barely used it. My only concern is that it still has the original motor and gear oil in it from when he purchased it. Again, thinking closer to only 10 hours on it. I checked the motor oil and it looks pristine, but if I buy it I'm going to change it asap. What are your thoughts on a motor with such low hours that has the original fluids and spark plugs in it, that is 4 years old?
That depends on where and how it was stored, if it was stored inside then not much to worry about with the engine oil it won’t have enough contamination in it to cause problems, I would be more concerned with the fuel system and if it was stored with stale fuel in it. With the fuel injection it’s not as problematic as with a carb but it may run poorly until you flush the stale fuel out, best case is they stored it dry with no fuel in it.
@@huntnfishnuts5880 Yup, changed the oil and gear lube, and siphoned the old gas out of my boat that sat for two+ years (used that gas in the old pickup truck and lawn mowers), then filled up with premium (without that ethanol crap in it). Runs great.
Awesome video!! I just bought a tender that came with a 2007 25hp Mercury 4-stroke EFI and while I can do this maintenance (as I also own a carburated 1997 15hp Johnson 2-stroke), I wonder what I can do to prevent my injectors from clogging or becoming gummed up. With my 2-stoke I would normally run it with the fuel hose disconnected until it died. Should I do the same with my 25hp 4-stroke EFI, or is that bad for it? I know to use a high quality fuel stabilizer, but the reality is I don't take out the boat very often, so I'm concerned what that might do to the fuel injectors, if left sitting for extended periods (between or after outings). Thanks in advance!!
If you are not going to run the engine on a regular basis it would probably be better to run the engine dry of fuel. The problem with gas that has ethanol in it is over time the alcohol in the fuel draws moisture and will eventually separate in the fuel. The fuel will also go stale over time , when it does this it will not vaporize really and becomes less volatile and won’t burn correctly, if you’d going to store with fuel in always use a good quality fuel stabilizer and fill the tank as a larger volume of fuel will take longer to deter oats than a small volume, of does not hurt to run a fuel injection cleaner through with your fuel when running it, that will help keep the injectors clean and reduce carbon deposits on your valves. Sea foam is a good treatment or any additive that uses nitrogen like Techron, don’t leave used engine oil in your engine for long periods, it can hold contaminants, hope this info helps you out.
@@huntnfishnuts5880 Hey, thanks for your reply! Seems like I have bigger problems though. Took out the boat for the first time yesterday (I just purchased this boat/motor) and it runs fine, but it seems to not go past a certain rpm... almost like it's bogged down or somehow underpowered. Now, I know this same boat would have no issues getting on plane with my 15hp Johnson 2-stroke, but this 10yr newer 25hp EFI merc could not get my buddy and I on plane now matter what we did. It does not stall at any point, which is odd... as that would lead me to think it's a fuel issue... it just simply does not have enough power under load. Any ideas what it might be?
Da_Q-ban_One sounds like the engine is running. It should only do about 5k rpm at max if it’s tracing this speed it’s running correctly so you might want to consider a prop change, if it’s running but not reaching that high rpm check for a limiter on the throttle like a trolling engine would have or a restriction in air or fuel, make sure the fuel line or filter is not restricted. Also make sure your running fresh new fuel.
Dana Howard usually there is an oil range marked on the dip stick. If you hold the dip stick straight up the mark on the bottom would be the minimum mark the top mark would be the maximum mark. Safe oil operating level would be between the two marks. I like to keep it to the upper mark just in case the engine uses some oil.
Alan Chumley it would depend on how many hours you put on the engine in a season. Plugs should be checked every 300 hours or 3 years but some guys would have 300 hours in one season. They should be gapped to 1.0 mm or 0.040in and torqued to 20 ldft or if you don't have a torque wrench hand tight then add 1/4 turn. I would replace the fuel filter at the same time and also inspect the corrosion blocks to see if they need to be changed. If your running in saltwater I would check everything more frequently. Hope this helps you out.
charles slaughter yes I usually change the screw gaskets in my lower unit. Not worth the risk of a leak. If you tighten the screws with the gaskets hand tight with the washers they should not leak but don't over tighten them. If you leave it sit and see oil seeping from the screws there not tight enough if the oil is leaking out the water will leak in. If the oil looks like chocolate milk when you drain it out then there is water getting into your lower end. Don't forget to check behind the prop for debri that might damage the drive shaft seal. Hope this helps out.
Nice job..is there a way I can do this with my boat in the water? I do not have a trailer and the marina wants $60 take boat out of water , plus $300 for filter and oil change...Any suggestions?
Mike Nuzzolese the engine oil you could change in the water but the lower end you can not. You can suck the engine oil out through the dip stick tube using a vacuum pump you would then just screw off the filter and refill the oil. It’s tricky to do it though.
Great video man, think I'm going to attempt this this week my motor is over due and Bass Pro turn around time is 2-3 weeks ridiculous. You might have addressed this already so sorry or can you put it in the info section all the specs I have the same engine so the Oil, filter, the amount of 25W-40, etc? Appreciate it man.
Fishbone1436 you will need a Mercury filter number 35-877768k01 for the oil I use 3 quarts of 25w40. For the lower end j use 80w90 gear oil by Mercury or quicksilver usually use about a quart. Then it's back on the water fishing. Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much! I have the exact same engine, and that helped a lot. Tell me, are you from the aul sod, too? I think I hear the underpinnings of a Dublin accent.
Robert Halpin no I donor warm the oil either in the engine or the lower end. I store the boat inside so even in the winter the oil is at room temperature. If I was changing the oil outside here in the winter I would have to warm the oil or it would take an hour to drain.
Sirlee Outdoorsmen - The following procedure is for a Mercury 40/50/60 HP 4 stroke. That said, most drive units operate on the same principle. Note: Changing the entire water pump assembly doesn’t need to done, unless you have damage to the housing. The only thing you need to replace every 2 or 3 years is the impeller that is on the inside of the water pump. To remove the lower unit, trim the motor all the way up, and place a support block (a cut to length of 2x4 will work) under the engine, and lower the engine enough to rest on the block to take the pressure off the hydraulic tilt jack (not the fiberglass drive shaft cowl), pull the ground cable from the starting battery, ensure the safety switch is in the off position, key is not in the ignition and place the throttle/drive lever into the first forward lock position (forward engaged). Loosen the four 5/8th” main bolts, do not remove them yet. Mark the position of the trim vane (tab) using a paint marker or a piece of masking tape with the location mark on the lower unit mount. Remove the trim vane by loosening the vane bolt using a 17mm socket. There is a locknut and flat washer on a stud bolt under the trim vane that must be removed using a 15mm socket. Now remove the four 5/8th” main bolts. The lower unit is now free to be removed. Using a dead blow (rubberized) mallet, gently tap down on the anti cavitation flares (these are the fins that are molded into and wrap around the lower unit) tapping each side until the lower unit pops loose. I highly advise having a friend hold the lower unit when it pops loose, to prevent it from sliding completely out and hitting the ground, or just be ready to catch it should that occur. I haven’t had one come completely off, but there is always a first time. Better safe then $1800 - $2100 worth of sorry to replace a broken lower unit. Having some sort of cradle to set the lower unit in while you service it really makes things easier. The lower unit is a bit heavy and awkward. Believe it or not, I use an old wooden four legged bar stool with cross supports between the legs, and it supports the lower unit just fine. Wipe all of the crud and old grease from the components before you start tearing things down. The water pump housing sits on top of the lower unit and is held in place with four 10mm bolts at each corner of the housing. Two additional bolts are just forward of the housing that hold the separator plate in place. Unless you think you need a new plate gasket, there isn’t a reason to remove those two additional bolts. When you remove the water pump housing you will slide it up and off the drive shaft. The impeller will be what looks like a rubberized fan blade with the blades curved a certain direction in the housing. There is a small metal “key” that fits into a groove machined into the base of the drive shaft. This “key” has a high spot machined into it, a groove in the impellers inner bushing aligns with this high spot and is what drives the impeller. Also, there are two thin phenolic washers that ride above and below the impeller. They are usually chewed up pretty good (normally the one that rides between the separator plate and the impeller is the worst), make sure you replace those. Put the new phenolic washer and impeller in the housing, ensuring the blades are curved in the proper direction (take a picture before you remove the old one while it is still in the housing, just in case you forget). Place the second new phenolic washer around the drive shaft onto the separator plate. Place the “key” back into the drive shaft groove and slide the housing with the impeller down the drive shaft, align the impeller bushing groove with high spot on the “key” and seat the water pump housing. Thread the four 10mm bolts back into place and tighten them, then wipe everything down one more time. Place some marine grease, with a Teflon additive, on the drive shaft splines and the small splined engagement shaft, ensure the two white phenolic couplers are in place and replace the lower unit. You may have to rotate the drive shaft to align it with the engine drive gear. It will take a bit of wiggling but it will slide into place enough where you can start threading the four main bolts into place. Ensure you have 5 or 6 good turns of the bolts threaded into the mount. Once they are threaded into place you can apply even pressure, while wiggling the lower unit until it seats further. There are two 1/4” alignment pins (at the front and rear of the lower unit. These will line up with the mounting plate holes, but are a very tight fit, also there should be one each, rubber o-ring seated around each pin, most people toss them away, I don’t recommend doing that. Once you have the lower unit as far up as you can go, almost to the point where the alignment pins are touching the housing, hand tighten one if the four bolts to hold the lower unit it place. Then evenly tighten the bolts of the lower unit into place in a crisscross pattern until the unit is fully seated and then fully tighten the bolts, and replace the lock nut and tighten. Replace the trim vane and tighten the bolt just enough so you can adjust the vane back to the mark you made earlier, and fully tighten. Double check your main bolts to ensure they are tight. Remove the support block, lower to motor, and refill the lower unit with the recommended gear oil. Always use marine grade oil in both the lower unit and engine. Some people say it doesn’t matter.... it matters, unless those people are the engineers who designed the motor and drive gears. If they didn’t design the motor, follow the manufactures recommendations. Those nay sayers won’t be the ones footing the bill for replacing critical components... you will. But at the end of the day, it is your decision. Hope this helps.
reggie sherman that depends on the size of the pieces. If large that may not have made it past the intake Manafold as the valve opening is quite small. I would remove the spark plugs and use an inspection camera to inspect each cylinder. You could also use compressed air to try and clear each cylinder. I would at least want to take the intake manafold off and clean it out. If there is debri in the intake make sure you get it all out. You do not want debri blocking your exhaust or getting stuck in a valve holding it open causing misfire.
Wilf Richer is it the same layout as my 60 hp engine? It's handy to have a spark plug socket to remove and install plugs there's a rubber insert or a magnet in the socket to hold the plug.
I have owned this engine and boat for 8 years now and I have never had any issues with this engine. I don’t run it through the winter as I live in the northern US so my water freezes, I have had it out in heavy rain and thunder storms and running at wide open throttle and never had water coming inside the cowl. It also starts easier than a two stroke in cold weather.
I have a 75hp mercury 4 stroke. Looking at the video, I'm having a hard time finding the first screw in the lower unit @ 47 sec in your video. Is there an alternate way to drain and pump new gear lube into the lower unit? I was not able to change it before winter set in, and was going to do it first thing before I take out the boat this year. Thanks.
Christopher Thao there may be a plug cover over the screw to drain the oil. Look along the bottom of the bulge for the propeller drive shaft the drain is usually on the lower edge of that bulge. Hope this helps you. Thanks for watching.
Christopher Thao on some of the larger merc engines 75 to 115 horse the drain for the lower end is behind the propeller. You have to take the prop off with a prop wrench. Straighten the lock washer before removing the prop nut then pull the prop off and behind the large washer at the back of the prop is the drain plug for the lower end it's at the bottom right below the prop shaft.
What size motor is this? I see u used premium gear oil but anything 75hp and over calls for the high performance and apparently u can't mix the two just from my research might wanna check into that. But great video man
Jeff Sibbald this is a 60 hp merc stroke. So the premium lower end oil is correct for this engine. For the larger engines they do use the high performance oil which is full synthetic so you are right you cannot mix the two. They use the full synthetic oil for higher heat and stress it just holds up better but it is more expensive. Thanks for watching.
My 2007 bigfoot 60hp won't trim up. Is has oil, no air bubbles. I have to lift it manually, then it just drifts down. It will power down when on blocks. Do I need piston rebuild?
I have a 50hp Merc 4 stroke. Can you run the engine using the flush port or is that only to be used with the engine off? In the manual it says to hook up a hose to the port and run the engine so that the stat will open, but in another place it says never to run the engine with only the port. Do I use paddles + the port? Thanks!
Funky Monk there is an attachment that has suction cups that clamps over the water pump intake ports that you can attach a garden hose to. With the hose on you can run the engine just make sure you have water coming from the discharge vent you do not want to run the water pump dry it will burn up the impeller fins there rubber. I would not run it with the paddles at wide open throttle for that I would want the lower end submerged with a constant water supply. Even using the paddles make sure you have good water pressure. Hope this helps you out.
Hey, I have paddles. I was wondering if the hose hooked up to the Flush port can be used in place of paddles for things like running after an oil change, which I'm doing tomorrow for the first time. Manual says only use half pressure if using the Flush port. Something else I don't understand. Thanks for the tips.
Funky Monk I would use the paddles to run the engine not the flush port. The paddles attached to the water pump inlet will ensure s good feed of water to your pump just make sure the water is coming out the indicator jet on the back of the engine this shows that your getting proper flow. Thanks for watching.
It never seems like a quart comes out of my lower end (never what she said) it always is blueish green...motor is vert, all 3 drain plugs out...question is,,,how much gear lube for 90hp merc? It seems like 3/4 of a quart
Jim Oliver I do not have a video on water flow. But if you have poor cooling water flow first check and make sure your water intake is not blocked. This can be flushed with a hose. If it's clear you may have a bad water pump impeller. It is housed inside the lower end. They use s key way on a shaft to drive the impeller it may be stripped and not turning. The impeller itself is rubber and may have torn. There are videos posted on changing the water pump.
Daniel Castillo all you have to do is keep the receipts for the filters and oil or any parts you serviced. Even if you have it serviced by someone outside of a dealer keep your service receipts for any warranty. You just have to prove that you performed there recommended services.
I may be wrong, but I was told not to pump any extra oil in the lower unit after the top screws have been replaced. I was told It can blow the oil seal at the propeller and cause it to leak.
Your right, you don’t want to force a lot of extra oil in if you have both caps in, the hydraulic force can push oil past your shaft seals, just enough to replace what dropped out won’t hurt it though.
4 strokes are fun to torture, i would rig up total loss oil burnoff and feed it into the carb, i worked on a dive boat where the chief engineer did such a thing on a mercury 40 hp 4 joke and fed its oil into the carb for total loss, we absolutly hated that engine and tortured with no mean and filled it with synthetic 2 stroke oil, we worked on an EMD and detroit powered 2 stroke dive boat, what a POS this 4 stgroke was but it ran , i fucking hate 4 strokes and love to destroy them , no such engine shouls exist, bash it with a hammer when its done
Itsd bad enough that every car and truck is equiped with such 4 stroke garbage, thank god for detroit diesel, EMD and big outboards, i hate and love to destroy 4 stroke, but they do servive on 2 stroke oil though and there is just this;th-cam.com/video/RrJhlTcN_Qw/w-d-xo.html
I bought it in the sporting goods department at my local Walmart, should be able to get one on line from them too. I’m sure Cabelas and bass pro would have one in there boating sections.
It’s tough to say without hearing it run, if it’s running ok but topping check your throttle cable is adjusted properly that it’s not limiting your rpm, check the fuel filters for restriction, also air supply to the engine, depending on the type of hill and the weight of the boat the prop can limit your speed depending on pitch. You can run it out of the water with a hose attachment on for cooling and run it with no load to see if you get to 5k, check your basic maintenance stuff too, coils spark plugs and wires, also fuel quality, stale fuel will not run properly. Hope these ideas help.
Why are you adding oil from the bottom drain plug? Shouldn't you plug the bottom and add oil from the side vent and wait for it to fill and come out the other vent? Seems you will lose some oil when you remove the fill tube connected to the pump.
When you fill the oil from the bottom you purge the air out easily but when you put the plugs in the top you have created a vacuum type seal on the oil in the lower end this prevents the oil from running out, you will always loose a few drops but not enough to worry about.
Joshua Najem I do not have a seal over my oil drain plug. If it has a cover on it I would take it off to get to the metal plug then use the wrench on the metal plug. It will have a washer on the shaft of the plug used to seal the plug make sure that goes back on it keeps the oil in and water out.
I seen you had posted another comment but it did not show up on my notifications.you where asking about the stuck drain plug. that can be tricky. try soaking it with penetrating oil first, failing that use a longer ratchet on a socket or a wrench 6 point only and tap it lightly with a dead blow hammer to loosen it. last resort would be an impact gun or an impact driver to jar it loose. use caution as you do not want to strip it or break it off. salt water is rough on equipment.
ya I deleted the comment because I was able to get it off after removing that black rubber seal/cover. I used to bring it to a shop to have the maintenance done on it but I don't trust them anymore because I have no idea if they are actually doing the job, the motor oil was very black and I am concerned about the gear lube it was a little milky looking and it took over a half hour to completely drain is that normal? I replaced the gear lube with new and I am going to check it again after a few uses.
Joshua Najem it can be normal for gear oil to take s while to drain especially if it's cold. It is much thicker than engine oil but it should not be milky. That's a sign of water contamination. Good idea to check if after some run time if it looks milky again I would think of getting the lower end seals serviced.
GeorgeArtzer I have the engine level when emptying the oil but tilted up when filling the oil to hold the funnel then level again to check the oil level after filling. Also in the video my bow is higher than the stern so to have the engine vertical it won't sit down against the transom.
huggyjd yeah I don’t know why they designed it like that but all there engines bigger than 60 horse have the drain plug behind the prop. Bit more of a pain to get at.
You have to start the motor for at least one minute, let all the oil go back to the oil pan and then check the oil level, forgot that the oil filter was bone dry when installed..
When changing your 4 stroke oil, turn the motor all the way to the left, and tilt it up a bit. That way the oil doesn't run down your case and will hit the drain pan. I always use new gaskets on those lower unit screws. Check your manual for correct oil weight. In my hot climate, it's the heavier oil. If I lived in MN and fished in cold weather, it would be the 10W30.
tj fry I have 100 deg weather in summer and 0 deg weather in winter so I use the full syn all season oil. The latest I can use it would be late November after that its iced over.
Yes, as I live in the desert, so I can use the 25/40 year round, going by the temp chart in the manual. I have an hour meter on the motor, so usually change under 100 hrs, as I troll a lot. A bit over 300 on the motor, and it has never burped after trolling for 5 hrs straight, compared to my old 2 stroke, that had to be opened up and cleaned out after an hour or two.
Great video, you have saved me hundreds of dollars, straight and to the point, one of the best videos i have seen on youtube regarding any subject..thanks
m i k e h a r r i s I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching.
Huntnfishnuts mike. I have a 2005 40hp 4stoke mercury and is giving a long beep. I changed the oil at the beginning of the season and it looks a bit milky. Any ideas?
Thanks, Man. Simple and straight to the point. Great Vid.
Thank you for this video! saved me money and great overview on maintenance.
Really like this video, sometimes we take for granted our own day to day knowledge, I figure I will start doing some similar videos, thanks man.
Amazing tutorial! Thank you so much for documenting the process and i just finished my first outboard service!
Huntnfishnuts thanks for making that video, I just purchased a 2006 60 hp Mercury fourstroke EFI BigFoot. Your maintenance video was very well done, a lot of good info. I now feel like I know my motor better and I can do the maintenance myself. You just saved me a lot of money not having to pay someone to do it for me. So thank you very much!
MrPatrickgannon thanks for the comment glad I could help out.
This is so awesome. I just bought a tracker and this will defintely save me alot of money. Thank you so much for this beneficial video.
Chai Vang your welcome, I hope it helped you out.
You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
I just purchased a boat with a 2013, 60 HP Big Foot. I will be winterizing it in a couple of weeks. Thanks so much for the great video tutorial. Put my mind at ease that I can handle this project no sweat. The tats look great as well:--)
Glad it was helpful to you. You don't need to fog a four stroke like you do a two stroke for storage but if your keeping it outside I would use some wd40 or another water repellent. in the cylinders just to keep your rings from rusting. Also if you put a lot of hours on it change the fluids before you store. Lots of interest in my tattoos it seems ha ha ha. Thanks for watching.
Awesome Video... I just bought a Tracker myself and putting it up for winter. This video is exactly what I was looking for. THANKS!
Tom P good luck with your boat. Glad this could help you.
Thank you buddy for this vidéo its clear ans will save me money for many years.
I am a marine Tech of 22 years in the biz here in Florida.. I sometimes enjoy looking at instruction marine vids and normally can rip anyone apart for giving bad info. There is so much bad info out there that can hurt the guy who does not know and is trying to save a little money just to get bad advice and hurt his cause, piss his wife off and disappoint the kids .. I have to give you a thumbs up for your maint vid.. Its correct, to the point, and simply put for the novice to understand. Well done.. The only thing I would have liked seeing more is a discussion on sacrificial anodes and saltwater effects along with the impeller service instruction.. Good vid
Gator SaW thanks for the great comment. I am not a marine tech but am an ASE master auto tech. I work on car and medium duty truck. I have trained a lot of apprentices over 21 years and applied that training explanation in the video to try and help out people with out a mechanical background. The only reason I did not cover info on the anodes on the engine is that I do not run my boat in salt or brackish water only freshwater fishing for me.
I would go ahead and change both fuel filters while doing a service. To disconnect the lines you just press down on the red tabs and pop the one filter off then unscrew the other fuel plastic bowl and replace the element. Real easy to do. It's also a good idea to run the engine and see how the water pump is doing by watching the pee hole spraying the water out. If it's been sitting awhile they may dry rot and not put out water like they should. Good videos on youtube on changing the impeller out. Very good detailed video on the oil. Thanks for the share.
exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
Jeff A glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the great video. Super clean motor👍🏻
Thanks appreciate that. I take good care of my boat and engine. Glad you found this helpful.
Awesome video. Just what i wanted to know on servicing motor Cheers
I have that exact same motor, thanks for showing the maintenance procedure.
What kind of boat do you have and what's your speed?
I have questions can someone please message me
You did a great job.
Yes well done mate, very good description. thank you.
Royce Faggotter thanks, I hope it helped you out.
Just got a boat actually the one in the video looks just like mine thanks for the video now I know how to do some maintenance good luck on you fishing have a good weekend
I’m glad you found it helpful, spring is almost here, time to get the boat out again for more fishing
exactly what i needed. same engine. thanks for doing this.
Eric Pinter I’m glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching.
Tell you what, this makes it looks so easy. I know some about motors, but not a lot. But this I can do and save a little cash to enjoy more time on the water. thanks for the post.
coy beale glad it was helpful thanks for watching.
Good video on the oil and gear lube changes. Do you have a video on where everywhere to lube with the 2-4-C Lubricant, as well as all of the zirk fittings?
Good video. Thanks.
you're a good teacher
Great video. Thanks so much.
I'm buying my 1st Merc thanks for the maintenance tip
I have owned this boat and mercury engine since 2011, and it has never let me down one time.
Thanks much-great how to, straight to the point!!
Zack Perkins thanks for watching. Glad it helped you out.
Thanks I was really over thinking it!
Great video, your Merc is a little larger than mine... lol, I have a 2014 4 hp 4 stroke short shaft! I use it for fishing with my square stern canoe and 12 and 14 foot aluminum boats. It burns very little fuel and is reasonably quiet. Good luck on the water!
Thanks Dave. I love my Mercury. Never given me a bit of trouble. I have run 2 strokes before but the 4 is much quieter also easier starting in cold weather. Now time for some fishing videos.
Overall great video! Good explanations, good shots. Note, the engine must be vertical when filling/checking the engine oil and gearcase oil on every outboard that I am aware of. The outboard shown in this video is trimmed out some, and that is incorrect. Is it the end of the world to be trimmed a little? No, but the correct position is vertical with the anti cav parallel to a level ground. Another note, some outboards require a different procedure to drain the engine oil. My 2017 Mercury 9.9, for example, you must tilt out all the way to drain the engine oil. Then replace the screw. Tilt in and wait a couple minutes. Tilt back out and drain the rest. Refer to your manual for specific procedures for engine oil draining, as they are not all the same.
Great video. Thanks.
Thank You!! One of the better instructional videos I've seen on YT. Have you considered doing a video on winterizing your OB?
Ralph B thanks for watching and commenting. I'm prepping my boat now for this season but that's a good idea to cover winterizing the engine. Might do one on trailer maintenance too. Thanks for the idea
very good information,looks identical to my 40hp
mike pike yeah there pretty much the same up to the 115 horse then some stuff starts to change. Thanks for watching.
thank you for the straight forward video
claritonclear thanks for watching and commenting.
Good job explaining
Good video. Just what i'm looking for. The only difference is mine's a 2005, but shouldn't be much different. Do you advise changing the fuel filter? and if so, how often?
Thanks for the great info.
DaxM yes it’s a good idea to change your fuel filter. The frequency will depend on a lot of variables. Because I live in the north I have shorted open water seasons so once every 2 years is fine for me but if you run the boat all year or put a lot of hours on the engine I would change it more frequently. I would also add a fuel additive or stabilizer if your going to store the boat for any length of time.
mercury people told me ,torque specification for a 40HP oil drain plug was 17.7 ft lb, if anyone was wondering
take care of the motor and it will take care of you you on the water...don't want any break downs...nice looking one also...
Thanks Gonzo. Yeah that boat is my baby. Knock on wood I've owned this boat from new for 5 years and I have never had any problems. I had issues with my other boat and it just takes away from your fishing time. Hard enough to get out.
many thanks for this video
Great job
Thank you for the excellent video. I have an exact same engine as yours. I like to ask if your engine collects any salt residue after each outing under the last spark plug. There a path/opening from side to side. There is a hose connected to a fitting that I believe it leaks there on my engine. I'm not sure if I can replace the fitting. Any idea? Thank you for your help.
One suggestion! If I may? When draining ant fluid start by removing the vent or top screw, or cap! This way if for any reason the top plug is frozen closed, you haven't drained the oil or fluid out and have a critical situation on your hands, where now TOP PLUG ( screw etc.) HAS TO COME OFF! You made me think of it when you said differential!? Nice video!
My vent screw was stuck on there pretty tights. Was worried for a minute that I wouldn't get it off before stripping the flat-head.
Thank you sir very helpful
you done a good job, Thanks!!!!
Thanks, I’m glad you found the video helpful.
Do you have a video on changing fuel filter on this engine? I have the same model. Thanks for the video!!
Super video, thanks! Just a couple of observations/questions really.
On the bottom end: When filling, I have the feeling that the trim should be neutral, rather than slightly up, to be sure it all drains, and also for adequate refill? Should we buy new gaskets each time?
On the top end: You don't say to put the drain plug back in, for a newbie, this might be an important, well needed step; Also when checking the oil level, I would say it is important for the trim to be neutral again (level), as the previous tip had the raised trim to allow for the funnel to stay in place --- might want to mention to set trim level even before checking the dip stick and lastly, I believe the oil filter should be hand tight as possible, and then an extra 1/2 turn with the wrench. Just my 2 cents. Thanks again!
Yes, the bottom leg needs to be straight north and south, not tilted, when you refill. Mercury says you can reuse the yellow seals as long as they are not ripped. No need to buy the expensive "mercury" oil or filter. SAE oil is oil. Good old fashioned regular car motor oil will work in the crankcase.
Good video! Thanks! I used it to do my first oil change on my Mercury 60hp 4 stroke.
But I think you need to screw the filter a bit more using a wrench to prenvent leaking. The owners manual recommend tightening it 3/4 to 1 extra turn. If your previous oil change was done by the dealer, you'll probably need the wrench to unscrew it, all other methods I tried didn't work for me.
I've seen different ways of verifying the oil level, some people raise to engine to full extension, wait a bit then bring it back straight before verifying the oil. Also owners manual recommends running the engine for 5 minutes. I would be glad to see that part, with the flusher tool.
What about the vent and drain plugs casket? Do you change them often?
Thanks again and good job!
Nicolas Brousseau you do not want to tighten the oil filter on with a wrench as if you do you will have a very difficult time removing it the next time you go to take it off. I have seen filters so tight that they will crush and tear before coming loose. It is also important to lube the seal on the bottom of the filter this will also aid in removal. When you run the engine it will pump oil into the filter that will remain in the filter so it will reduce your oil level on the stick bug if you have it on the max line it will not lower it by much, just make sure the engine is level when you check your oil level. When I made the video it aS already winter time here so could not use outside running water as it would freeze but you could use cups and run the engine on a garden hose then check the oil. I will do it after my first trip on the water. I would change the sealing gaskets at every 3 rd oil change as preventative maintenance.
Thanks, great video, I have a similar motor, mine is 2013. Is there a video showing the changing of the fuel filter , anyone ? Thanks
Do the valves need adjusting on the 2018 Efi 4 strokes?
Great video. Will help me alot on my winterizing my 50hp mercury this fall. Just one quick question, is it ok to use High Performance gear lube on a 50hp mercury? Since it's used on 75hp and higher for better lube and heat dissipate, why not use it for all sizes?
Thanks again for this video.
Jalapenopinoy Production yes you can use the high performance oil which is full synthetic as long as it is the same viscosity as the oil recommended for your lover end. The advantage with sun oil is it will last longer than regular oil the disadvantage is its more expensive.
thnx! for the tip.
I have never changed the oil on anything before. I want to change the oil on my 4 stroke 60hp mercury motor to save money. I'm in school now and found this video but I can't listen to it yet. My question: can I do this easily by myself with no prior experience with oil changes on any type of motor?
Great video! Thank you! T
Hey Man hope you found the info useful. Thanks for watching
Love your video. Got a quick question. Should the motor be trimmed like you have it or level? Thanks for sharing!
You would want the engine level to drain and to check the oil level, I had it trimmed only to fill it as it will retain my oil funnel better when trimmed up. Always drain the oil and check the level with the engine as close to 90 degrees from the floor, hope this helps you.
Brother.. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
pensnut08 glad you found it useful.
Good vid ! Heard I can install a 3.5 hp 4 stroke carburetor on a 2.5 4stroke (2016) merC. can anyone confirm ? I Ordered the wrong one lol This one doesnt have a restricter but is pretty much the exact same engine so I'm guessing main difference is the jets and prob some timings Thanks in advance
according to mercury you only need to undo one screw at the top as one is a drain and the other is a vent.
great video. thnx for that. I needed to see how that was done. I also have the mercury 60hp EFI. now I have more comfidence doing my own oil change. by the way whats the torque lb per spec on all the bolts? beside the one you hand tight.
The oil drain plug for the engine oil would be between 20 to 25 ft lbs. you have to be careful as if there is oil on the threads this will change your torque as the oil reduces friction causing you to over tighten. The lower end screws I only ever hand tighten as they are small in diameter and are always covered with oil. Thanks for watching.
Huntnfishnuts
great video....
Shuswap Outdoors thanks. I hope it helped you out.
40 mercury how to changing bend prop shaft
Hello would you know I have the same set up as you last time out. For some reason my boat in water in drive with not go above 3000 rpms but with ears on preform fine
How much slack is allowed in timing belt?
Great video. I'm looking at buying a 2015 90 HP command thrust on a bayliner, and I have heard good things about Mercury motors except for one guy said he and two Mercury motor and it stayed in shop. Additionally, said they are more cold natured. Now, I don't know the specifics of those motors but I was going to ask your personal opinion on Mercury since you have one. I am anal about mainteance on all my vehicles so that will not be an issue, just curious with the right care will they hold up.
Ben Moore I have Owens this engine from new since 2011 and I have never had to take it in for repair for any mechanical problem. I do all the basic maintenance as you seen in the video. The engine has started every time I have turned the key even after 4 months of storage. When I'm on big water that engine is wide open full throttle or idling in a no wake zone and it has never let me down. After seeing and hearing how quiet my engine was my father in law sold his 115 Yamaha and bought a 150 merc and to this day he has had no mechanical problems with his. The four stroke is a little heavier than two stroke equivalent but much more reliable in cold weather starts also you dong have to buy two stroke oil to mix with the fuel. Hope this helps you on your decision. If buying a used engine I would advise you to get a marine mechanic to look at it before you buy.
Thank you for this! Looking at a 2015 Mercury 60hp 4 stroke that has under 20 hours on it. The gentleman that owns it barely used it. My only concern is that it still has the original motor and gear oil in it from when he purchased it. Again, thinking closer to only 10 hours on it. I checked the motor oil and it looks pristine, but if I buy it I'm going to change it asap. What are your thoughts on a motor with such low hours that has the original fluids and spark plugs in it, that is 4 years old?
That depends on where and how it was stored, if it was stored inside then not much to worry about with the engine oil it won’t have enough contamination in it to cause problems, I would be more concerned with the fuel system and if it was stored with stale fuel in it. With the fuel injection it’s not as problematic as with a carb but it may run poorly until you flush the stale fuel out, best case is they stored it dry with no fuel in it.
@@huntnfishnuts5880 Yup, changed the oil and gear lube, and siphoned the old gas out of my boat that sat for two+ years (used that gas in the old pickup truck and lawn mowers), then filled up with premium (without that ethanol crap in it). Runs great.
Awesome video!! I just bought a tender that came with a 2007 25hp Mercury 4-stroke EFI and while I can do this maintenance (as I also own a carburated 1997 15hp Johnson 2-stroke), I wonder what I can do to prevent my injectors from clogging or becoming gummed up. With my 2-stoke I would normally run it with the fuel hose disconnected until it died. Should I do the same with my 25hp 4-stroke EFI, or is that bad for it? I know to use a high quality fuel stabilizer, but the reality is I don't take out the boat very often, so I'm concerned what that might do to the fuel injectors, if left sitting for extended periods (between or after outings). Thanks in advance!!
If you are not going to run the engine on a regular basis it would probably be better to run the engine dry of fuel. The problem with gas that has ethanol in it is over time the alcohol in the fuel draws moisture and will eventually separate in the fuel. The fuel will also go stale over time , when it does this it will not vaporize really and becomes less volatile and won’t burn correctly, if you’d going to store with fuel in always use a good quality fuel stabilizer and fill the tank as a larger volume of fuel will take longer to deter oats than a small volume, of does not hurt to run a fuel injection cleaner through with your fuel when running it, that will help keep the injectors clean and reduce carbon deposits on your valves. Sea foam is a good treatment or any additive that uses nitrogen like Techron, don’t leave used engine oil in your engine for long periods, it can hold contaminants, hope this info helps you out.
@@huntnfishnuts5880 Hey, thanks for your reply! Seems like I have bigger problems though. Took out the boat for the first time yesterday (I just purchased this boat/motor) and it runs fine, but it seems to not go past a certain rpm... almost like it's bogged down or somehow underpowered. Now, I know this same boat would have no issues getting on plane with my 15hp Johnson 2-stroke, but this 10yr newer 25hp EFI merc could not get my buddy and I on plane now matter what we did. It does not stall at any point, which is odd... as that would lead me to think it's a fuel issue... it just simply does not have enough power under load. Any ideas what it might be?
Da_Q-ban_One sounds like the engine is running. It should only do about 5k rpm at max if it’s tracing this speed it’s running correctly so you might want to consider a prop change, if it’s running but not reaching that high rpm check for a limiter on the throttle like a trolling engine would have or a restriction in air or fuel, make sure the fuel line or filter is not restricted. Also make sure your running fresh new fuel.
I have a 2014 4 stroke 15 hp mercury motor there are 2 marks on oil stick which one do you go by when checking oil
Dana Howard usually there is an oil range marked on the dip stick. If you hold the dip stick straight up the mark on the bottom would be the minimum mark the top mark would be the maximum mark. Safe oil operating level would be between the two marks. I like to keep it to the upper mark just in case the engine uses some oil.
See you have not shown spark plug removal, how often do you replace/check the plugs? Cheers
Alan Chumley it would depend on how many hours you put on the engine in a season. Plugs should be checked every 300 hours or 3 years but some guys would have 300 hours in one season. They should be gapped to 1.0 mm or 0.040in and torqued to 20 ldft or if you don't have a torque wrench hand tight then add 1/4 turn. I would replace the fuel filter at the same time and also inspect the corrosion blocks to see if they need to be changed. If your running in saltwater I would check everything more frequently. Hope this helps you out.
should I use new gaskets on lower unit screws after changing gear lube? how do I know if screw are on to where there's no leak?
charles slaughter yes I usually change the screw gaskets in my lower unit. Not worth the risk of a leak. If you tighten the screws with the gaskets hand tight with the washers they should not leak but don't over tighten them. If you leave it sit and see oil seeping from the screws there not tight enough if the oil is leaking out the water will leak in. If the oil looks like chocolate milk when you drain it out then there is water getting into your lower end. Don't forget to check behind the prop for debri that might damage the drive shaft seal. Hope this helps out.
hello my friend . can you sow us were is the temperature senssor plz??
Nice job..is there a way I can do this with my boat in the water?
I do not have a trailer and the marina wants $60 take boat out of water , plus $300 for filter and oil change...Any suggestions?
Mike Nuzzolese the engine oil you could change in the water but the lower end you can not. You can suck the engine oil out through the dip stick tube using a vacuum pump you would then just screw off the filter and refill the oil. It’s tricky to do it though.
Great video man, think I'm going to attempt this this week my motor is over due and Bass Pro turn around time is 2-3 weeks ridiculous. You might have addressed this already so sorry or can you put it in the info section all the specs I have the same engine so the Oil, filter, the amount of 25W-40, etc? Appreciate it man.
Fishbone1436 you will need a Mercury filter number 35-877768k01 for the oil I use 3 quarts of 25w40. For the lower end j use 80w90 gear oil by Mercury or quicksilver usually use about a quart. Then it's back on the water fishing. Thanks for watching.
Awesome man, Thank you!!!
Thanks so much! I have the exact same engine, and that helped a lot. Tell me, are you from the aul sod, too? I think I hear the underpinnings of a Dublin accent.
Robert Halpin you got it. I moved to the United States when I was 21. Glad you found the video helpful.
Ha! Cool. 17 years for me. In Seattle, now.
Say, do you warm up the engine before you change the gear oil?
Robert Halpin no I donor warm the oil either in the engine or the lower end. I store the boat inside so even in the winter the oil is at room temperature. If I was changing the oil outside here in the winter I would have to warm the oil or it would take an hour to drain.
What about the water pump? Do I need to pull any pin out from the top or just unscrew the main bolts on the bottom and will it just come down?
Sirlee Outdoorsmen - The following procedure is for a Mercury 40/50/60 HP 4 stroke. That said, most drive units operate on the same principle. Note: Changing the entire water pump assembly doesn’t need to done, unless you have damage to the housing. The only thing you need to replace every 2 or 3 years is the impeller that is on the inside of the water pump. To remove the lower unit, trim the motor all the way up, and place a support block (a cut to length of 2x4 will work) under the engine, and lower the engine enough to rest on the block to take the pressure off the hydraulic tilt jack (not the fiberglass drive shaft cowl), pull the ground cable from the starting battery, ensure the safety switch is in the off position, key is not in the ignition and place the throttle/drive lever into the first forward lock position (forward engaged). Loosen the four 5/8th” main bolts, do not remove them yet. Mark the position of the trim vane (tab) using a paint marker or a piece of masking tape with the location mark on the lower unit mount. Remove the trim vane by loosening the vane bolt using a 17mm socket. There is a locknut and flat washer on a stud bolt under the trim vane that must be removed using a 15mm socket. Now remove the four 5/8th” main bolts. The lower unit is now free to be removed. Using a dead blow (rubberized) mallet, gently tap down on the anti cavitation flares (these are the fins that are molded into and wrap around the lower unit) tapping each side until the lower unit pops loose. I highly advise having a friend hold the lower unit when it pops loose, to prevent it from sliding completely out and hitting the ground, or just be ready to catch it should that occur. I haven’t had one come completely off, but there is always a first time. Better safe then $1800 - $2100 worth of sorry to replace a broken lower unit. Having some sort of cradle to set the lower unit in while you service it really makes things easier. The lower unit is a bit heavy and awkward. Believe it or not, I use an old wooden four legged bar stool with cross supports between the legs, and it supports the lower unit just fine. Wipe all of the crud and old grease from the components before you start tearing things down. The water pump housing sits on top of the lower unit and is held in place with four 10mm bolts at each corner of the housing. Two additional bolts are just forward of the housing that hold the separator plate in place. Unless you think you need a new plate gasket, there isn’t a reason to remove those two additional bolts. When you remove the water pump housing you will slide it up and off the drive shaft. The impeller will be what looks like a rubberized fan blade with the blades curved a certain direction in the housing. There is a small metal “key” that fits into a groove machined into the base of the drive shaft. This “key” has a high spot machined into it, a groove in the impellers inner bushing aligns with this high spot and is what drives the impeller. Also, there are two thin phenolic washers that ride above and below the impeller. They are usually chewed up pretty good (normally the one that rides between the separator plate and the impeller is the worst), make sure you replace those. Put the new phenolic washer and impeller in the housing, ensuring the blades are curved in the proper direction (take a picture before you remove the old one while it is still in the housing, just in case you forget). Place the second new phenolic washer around the drive shaft onto the separator plate. Place the “key” back into the drive shaft groove and slide the housing with the impeller down the drive shaft, align the impeller bushing groove with high spot on the “key” and seat the water pump housing. Thread the four 10mm bolts back into place and tighten them, then wipe everything down one more time. Place some marine grease, with a Teflon additive, on the drive shaft splines and the small splined engagement shaft, ensure the two white phenolic couplers are in place and replace the lower unit. You may have to rotate the drive shaft to align it with the engine drive gear. It will take a bit of wiggling but it will slide into place enough where you can start threading the four main bolts into place. Ensure you have 5 or 6 good turns of the bolts threaded into the mount. Once they are threaded into place you can apply even pressure, while wiggling the lower unit until it seats further. There are two 1/4” alignment pins (at the front and rear of the lower unit. These will line up with the mounting plate holes, but are a very tight fit, also there should be one each, rubber o-ring seated around each pin, most people toss them away, I don’t recommend doing that. Once you have the lower unit as far up as you can go, almost to the point where the alignment pins are touching the housing, hand tighten one if the four bolts to hold the lower unit it place. Then evenly tighten the bolts of the lower unit into place in a crisscross pattern until the unit is fully seated and then fully tighten the bolts, and replace the lock nut and tighten. Replace the trim vane and tighten the bolt just enough so you can adjust the vane back to the mark you made earlier, and fully tighten. Double check your main bolts to ensure they are tight. Remove the support block, lower to motor, and refill the lower unit with the recommended gear oil. Always use marine grade oil in both the lower unit and engine. Some people say it doesn’t matter.... it matters, unless those people are the engineers who designed the motor and drive gears. If they didn’t design the motor, follow the manufactures recommendations. Those nay sayers won’t be the ones footing the bill for replacing critical components... you will. But at the end of the day, it is your decision. Hope this helps.
what can I do if fragments from my air filter sucked into my intake or engine before taking it to the boat repair shop
reggie sherman that depends on the size of the pieces. If large that may not have made it past the intake Manafold as the valve opening is quite small. I would remove the spark plugs and use an inspection camera to inspect each cylinder. You could also use compressed air to try and clear each cylinder. I would at least want to take the intake manafold off and clean it out. If there is debri in the intake make sure you get it all out. You do not want debri blocking your exhaust or getting stuck in a valve holding it open causing misfire.
would love to see a video showing how to remove the spark plugs for a 2005 75 hp four stroke
Wilf Richer is it the same layout as my 60 hp engine? It's handy to have a spark plug socket to remove and install plugs there's a rubber insert or a magnet in the socket to hold the plug.
thanks for the info on the plug for the socket , got the job done
How has your experience been with this engine? Have you ever had any water finding it’s way inside the cowling?
I have owned this engine and boat for 8 years now and I have never had any issues with this engine. I don’t run it through the winter as I live in the northern US so my water freezes, I have had it out in heavy rain and thunder storms and running at wide open throttle and never had water coming inside the cowl. It also starts easier than a two stroke in cold weather.
Great vid! Does anyone have one on winterizing?
I could use a video on Winterizing as well.
I have a 75hp mercury 4 stroke. Looking at the video, I'm having a hard time finding the first screw in the lower unit @ 47 sec in your video. Is there an alternate way to drain and pump new gear lube into the lower unit? I was not able to change it before winter set in, and was going to do it first thing before I take out the boat this year. Thanks.
Christopher Thao there may be a plug cover over the screw to drain the oil. Look along the bottom of the bulge for the propeller drive shaft the drain is usually on the lower edge of that bulge. Hope this helps you. Thanks for watching.
Christopher Thao on some of the larger merc engines 75 to 115 horse the drain for the lower end is behind the propeller. You have to take the prop off with a prop wrench. Straighten the lock washer before removing the prop nut then pull the prop off and behind the large washer at the back of the prop is the drain plug for the lower end it's at the bottom right below the prop shaft.
Thank You! I'll have to check it out once the snow melts!
What size motor is this? I see u used premium gear oil but anything 75hp and over calls for the high performance and apparently u can't mix the two just from my research might wanna check into that. But great video man
Jeff Sibbald this is a 60 hp merc stroke. So the premium lower end oil is correct for this engine. For the larger engines they do use the high performance oil which is full synthetic so you are right you cannot mix the two. They use the full synthetic oil for higher heat and stress it just holds up better but it is more expensive. Thanks for watching.
Huntnfishnuts right on it looked bigger so just wanted to make you aware. Great video 🖒
My 2007 bigfoot 60hp won't trim up. Is has oil, no air bubbles. I have to lift it manually, then it just drifts down. It will power down when on blocks. Do I need piston rebuild?
Sounds like your loosing hydraulic pressure, might be leaking past the piston if you don’t see any fluid leaking externally.
I have a 50hp Merc 4 stroke. Can you run the engine using the flush port or is that only to be used with the engine off? In the manual it says to hook up a hose to the port and run the engine so that the stat will open, but in another place it says never to run the engine with only the port. Do I use paddles + the port? Thanks!
Funky Monk there is an attachment that has suction cups that clamps over the water pump intake ports that you can attach a garden hose to. With the hose on you can run the engine just make sure you have water coming from the discharge vent you do not want to run the water pump dry it will burn up the impeller fins there rubber. I would not run it with the paddles at wide open throttle for that I would want the lower end submerged with a constant water supply. Even using the paddles make sure you have good water pressure. Hope this helps you out.
Hey, I have paddles. I was wondering if the hose hooked up to the Flush port can be used in place of paddles for things like running after an oil change, which I'm doing tomorrow for the first time. Manual says only use half pressure if using the Flush port. Something else I don't understand. Thanks for the tips.
Funky Monk I would use the paddles to run the engine not the flush port. The paddles attached to the water pump inlet will ensure s good feed of water to your pump just make sure the water is coming out the indicator jet on the back of the engine this shows that your getting proper flow. Thanks for watching.
It never seems like a quart comes out of my lower end (never what she said) it always is blueish green...motor is vert, all 3 drain plugs out...question is,,,how much gear lube for 90hp merc? It seems like 3/4 of a quart
Just fill it till it comes out the vent. Probably about 3/4 of a quart or less my guess.
do you have a video on troubleshooting water flow issue. that would be wonderful
Jim Oliver I do not have a video on water flow. But if you have poor cooling water flow first check and make sure your water intake is not blocked. This can be flushed with a hose. If it's clear you may have a bad water pump impeller. It is housed inside the lower end. They use s key way on a shaft to drive the impeller it may be stripped and not turning. The impeller itself is rubber and may have torn. There are videos posted on changing the water pump.
100 hours or yearly on drive oil
Wouldn't doing changes yourself void warranty or do I just keep my receipts for records?
Daniel Castillo all you have to do is keep the receipts for the filters and oil or any parts you serviced. Even if you have it serviced by someone outside of a dealer keep your service receipts for any warranty. You just have to prove that you performed there recommended services.
I may be wrong, but I was told not to pump any extra oil in the lower unit after the top screws have been replaced. I was told It can blow the oil seal at the propeller and cause it to leak.
Your right, you don’t want to force a lot of extra oil in if you have both caps in, the hydraulic force can push oil past your shaft seals, just enough to replace what dropped out won’t hurt it though.
I wonder if that's the same filter I need for my mercury 50 hp efi?
4 strokes are fun to torture, i would rig up total loss oil burnoff and feed it into the carb, i worked on a dive boat where the chief engineer did such a thing on a mercury 40 hp 4 joke and fed its oil into the carb for total loss, we absolutly hated that engine and tortured with no mean and filled it with synthetic 2 stroke oil, we worked on an EMD and detroit powered 2 stroke dive boat, what a POS this 4 stgroke was but it ran , i fucking hate 4 strokes and love to destroy them , no such engine shouls exist, bash it with a hammer when its done
Itsd bad enough that every car and truck is equiped with such 4 stroke garbage, thank god for detroit diesel, EMD and big outboards, i hate and love to destroy 4 stroke, but they do servive on 2 stroke oil though and there is just this;th-cam.com/video/RrJhlTcN_Qw/w-d-xo.html
Where did you get the hose that screws into the hole to pump the oil thur
I bought it in the sporting goods department at my local Walmart, should be able to get one on line from them too. I’m sure Cabelas and bass pro would have one in there boating sections.
Thx I have the exact same boat
I love this boat, I will be fishing on it tonight, thanks for watching.
Me too on Cooper Lake here in Texas
Hi I have 60 efi 2006 on a Orkney fastliner 19 can not get past 4000rpm would you know the problem mate
It’s tough to say without hearing it run, if it’s running ok but topping check your throttle cable is adjusted properly that it’s not limiting your rpm, check the fuel filters for restriction, also air supply to the engine, depending on the type of hill and the weight of the boat the prop can limit your speed depending on pitch. You can run it out of the water with a hose attachment on for cooling and run it with no load to see if you get to 5k, check your basic maintenance stuff too, coils spark plugs and wires, also fuel quality, stale fuel will not run properly. Hope these ideas help.
Why are you adding oil from the bottom drain plug? Shouldn't you plug the bottom and add oil from the side vent and wait for it to fill and come out the other vent? Seems you will lose some oil when you remove the fill tube connected to the pump.
When you fill the oil from the bottom you purge the air out easily but when you put the plugs in the top you have created a vacuum type seal on the oil in the lower end this prevents the oil from running out, you will always loose a few drops but not enough to worry about.
Do you have a black rubber seal around your oil plug? If so do you remove it before you remove the plug?
Joshua Najem I do not have a seal over my oil drain plug. If it has a cover on it I would take it off to get to the metal plug then use the wrench on the metal plug. It will have a washer on the shaft of the plug used to seal the plug make sure that goes back on it keeps the oil in and water out.
Thanks for the info and the video
I seen you had posted another comment but it did not show up on my notifications.you where asking about the stuck drain plug. that can be tricky. try soaking it with penetrating oil first, failing that use a longer ratchet on a socket or a wrench 6 point only and tap it lightly with a dead blow hammer to loosen it. last resort would be an impact gun or an impact driver to jar it loose. use caution as you do not want to strip it or break it off. salt water is rough on equipment.
ya I deleted the comment because I was able to get it off after removing that black rubber seal/cover. I used to bring it to a shop to have the maintenance done on it but I don't trust them anymore because I have no idea if they are actually doing the job, the motor oil was very black and I am concerned about the gear lube it was a little milky looking and it took over a half hour to completely drain is that normal? I replaced the gear lube with new and I am going to check it again after a few uses.
Joshua Najem it can be normal for gear oil to take s while to drain especially if it's cold. It is much thicker than engine oil but it should not be milky. That's a sign of water contamination. Good idea to check if after some run time if it looks milky again I would think of getting the lower end seals serviced.
One question really, it doesn't look like you have the engine in the level position?
GeorgeArtzer I have the engine level when emptying the oil but tilted up when filling the oil to hold the funnel then level again to check the oil level after filling. Also in the video my bow is higher than the stern so to have the engine vertical it won't sit down against the transom.
It's not level
Yours is easy. My 2018 merc 75hp 4 stroke you gotta take the prop off to get to the drain plug.
huggyjd yeah I don’t know why they designed it like that but all there engines bigger than 60 horse have the drain plug behind the prop. Bit more of a pain to get at.
Sir link rod jomed problem
Hello, you didn't change petrol and air filters?
No I did not. They where not needed when I done the oil change.
You have to start the motor for at least one minute, let all the oil go back to the oil pan and then check the oil level, forgot that the oil filter was bone dry when installed..
Yup, the manual states five (5) minutes.
When changing your 4 stroke oil, turn the motor all the way to the left, and tilt it up a bit. That way the oil doesn't run down your case and will hit the drain pan. I always use new gaskets on those lower unit screws. Check your manual for correct oil weight. In my hot climate, it's the heavier oil. If I lived in MN and fished in cold weather, it would be the 10W30.
tj fry I have 100 deg weather in summer and 0 deg weather in winter so I use the full syn all season oil. The latest I can use it would be late November after that its iced over.
Yes, as I live in the desert, so I can use the 25/40 year round, going by the temp chart in the manual. I have an hour meter on the motor, so usually change under 100 hrs, as I troll a lot. A bit over 300 on the motor, and it has never burped after trolling for 5 hrs straight, compared to my old 2 stroke, that had to be opened up and cleaned out after an hour or two.
Quicksilver isn't OEM it's OEM certified tho
www.quicksilver-products.com/about-page
What year is that is it big foot
It’s a 2011 model year but not a Bigfoot, if I remember they where only using those engines on the pontoon boats.
I got the 2012 one 60 efi telling me its a big foot plus he got all my numbers for engine
tilt up turn left to properly drain oil