How to Install an Engine Mount Upgrade | MK7.5 GTI
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- We show you how to install an Upgraded BFI engine mount on a MK7.5 GTI. While this video was shot on a MK7.5 GTI, this DIY would apply to MK7 and MK7.5, GTI, Golf R, Alltrack and Golf 1.8t and well as Audi S3, A3, TT and TTS. While these models may have slight variation in this install they would be very similar.
Upgrading the engine mount on your VW or Audi will keep the engine from moving too much during acceleration as well as deceleration. This will assist greatly with traction.
Links Talked about in this video
BFI MK7 / MQB Complete Replacement Engine Mount - Stage 1
www.shopdap.co...
BFI MK7 / MQB Stage 1 Engine Mount Kit (6-Speed & DSG)
www.shopdap.co...
BFI MK7 / MQB Complete Replacement Engine Mount - Stage 2
www.shopdap.co...
BFI MK7 / MQB Stage 2 Engine Mount Kit (6-Speed & DSG)
www.shopdap.co...
Small Pick Set (4 piece)
www.shopdap.co...
Magnetic Bolt Tray with DAP logo
www.shopdap.co...
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This Video was shot at our VW and Audi Specialty Shop
DAP Repair
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Suite 408
Cornelius NC 28031
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Great Video. This mount is easy to replace. Took my 40 minutes and I'm not fast... THANKS! (The Upper Transmission Mount took me FAR longer to change.... PIMA!!!
Thanks for this video! One thing I noted was when going to remove the coolant reservoir is I just popped that whole hose junction off the unit which seemed far simpler than trying to fish into the connection for just the one hose. I don't know if gives you less flexibility but it seemed alright to move around.
Isn't it weird how metric sets sometimes skip 16mm and 18mm but both are required here? 🤔
Great video and I appreciate you showing us how you jacked up the car. Hoping BFI has a Black Friday sale on these!
I dont agree with the foam. The reason being is that the strongest points on the pan are going to be the corners and bends, the foam redirects weight distribution to inner flat surfaces where it is more likely to dent.
On my Mk7 1.4 Tsi, I have knocking on front right side (passenger side), when I start the engine - the same second I hear knock (tuc), on small bumps, on uneven road only on low speed 0-20km/h, on speed bump i hear the same sound. When I quickly release the clutch several times in reverse or forward I hear the same knocking.
I went in several service who works only suspension, and they said me everyithing with suspension is ok. But knocking is still. Does it engine mount, or something else? Drive me crazy. How do I check this engine mount is it good or bad? Which symptoms your car has it?
Excellent video! Thanks!
You can Jack on the pendulum mount.
Very smooth install instruction Paul 👍
I’m wondering how I already have scratches on my composite pan on my 2018 S3. 🤔
Is it worth getting dogbone mount, motor mount, & transmission mount? I am apr stage 2... was wondering if it really does help or if I just need to get one over the other.
At least a dog bone mount to compensate the increased torque from the tune. Motor mount eventually because out of the factory they fail due to engineering
Would a bad stock pendulum mount cause a click noise when giving it a little gas and letting off?
@@vwgti8091 hard to diagnose over a message, does the clicking noise happen if you just hold the throttle at 1500rpm? Is it a constant click or just one click? A bad pendulum mount would cause the motor to shift back and fourth more. Maybe have a second person watch the motor as you hit the throttle a few times in park to see if the motor has a lot of movement
Thank you for this amazing video ❤
is it possible for the driver side mount to make noise? like a creak?
Jack Joachim
Engine mount noise is typical when silicone lube is omitted and fasteners aren’t torqued down correctly.
They look visually the same as the mqb tiguan, do they fit the mqb tiguan?
to swap inserts... would you still have to jack engine up?
Love the videos I have an 2012 Audi A7 and was hoping that the videos you make for the s4 would be ok for my car or what I could do for my car for more power. Please help looking forward to chatting with you and getting your ideas.
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When should you use a stage 1 rather than a stage 2 motor mount? Would the stage 1 be used on a reflash and the stage 2 would be used on the is38 turbo swap? Thanks in advance.
Both stage 1 and stage 2 will be sufficient, it's about how much noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) you are willing to put up with.
Stage 2 is for track cars and cars with stage 2 engine/trans mods.
Old post I know - These BFI mounts are Polyurethane @70a durometer (Stage 1) and @85a (Stage 2). You will want to service them in time; could range between 20-30K mi. There are other options and one is CTS' Street Sport Engine/Trans mounts that are 60a and made of rubber. They are a great upgrade to stock and don't provide nearly the NVH these would. However, if you have a built motor and are putting out much much bigger power + racing the car, then the stiffer would be preferred. That's such a small population.
Excuse me for being ignorant, but doesn't it mean the oil pan is even lower now??🤔
What’s the point of upgrading this? What performance gain are we talking? I have an automatic APR Stage 1.
Makes your car feel more raw and tight. Should reduce wheelhop and general slop, increasing traction.
Pretty sure the oem mounts blow too, crazy play around 30k+ miles
Does a Fluidampr help with the NVH that’s caused by aftermarket mounts?
Not one bit. Don't fall into the "Crank wheels make more power" shinanigan. They're like intakes, you don't need them.
is this the same on a mk7?
Any chance of a review on how these mounts perform? I'd like to get an idea of the trade-off between comfort lost and performance gained?
Get the Stage 1 mounts. NVH isn't bad at all. Stage 2 sucks on a daily driver IMO.
Made a huge difference, especially with the stg 2 dog bone. There is vibration on cold start but it settles down and feels good daily driving
@@aviationmike2947 Does it just reduce wheel spin? Or is it also smoother clutch "bite"? No matter how hard I try to shift smoothly, I always get a little "jolt" when engaging the clutch. (In other cars, I can shift so smooth people think it's an automatic...). I know there is a valve or something in line with the clutch to make shifting easier, or something....I've been blaming that, but I forget what it's called. But maybe what I'm feeling is the engine rocking around?
fredy gump I still have a bit of a jump when shifting so the mounts have nothing to do with that. I can feel it more the car is at low RPM due to increased vibration.
@@fredygump5578 remove the spring that is attached to the clutch pedal...
Any tips for jacking up on the plastic pan....
Why the heck did VW make a sump out of plastic, i swear sometimes designers are moving backwards
MrZimma frame honestly they cheaper the fuck out on our engine
depends who you ask. people in the rust belt probably dont mind. there should have been a compromise though, like plastic coated pan or a metal protector
In colder climates, you'd have condensation and in hotter climates, you would have hotter oil. It's well-thought-out engineering. Those that aren't Engineers will only see what they see instead of investigating further.
@@MegaHollywood1971 Lol funny you should say that actually because I studied Mechanical Engineering at University.. And even I think it's a shit idea having a plastic oil sump, and so did VW which is why a lot of their models have gone back to metal sumps... Condensation shouldn't be an issue if an engine is heat cycles regularly (only long periods of sitting affect condensation inside the engine sump. I would worry more about the top of the engine not having oil there from sitting more so). And second you mentioned hot oil, automotive oil performs best at an optimum temperature of 90c, reducing the time it takes to warm up is actually beneficial to reduce long term engine wear.
The only benefit with a plastic sump is it's more thermally efficient, so better start up if a car has been sat for 1-2 hours in 0c temps but longer than that their isn't much benefit, plus if you crack your sump rather than denting it you won't be going anywhere fast without oil in your engine. VW did it to save a few coins, that's the real reason because the ones looking at production costs and sales they are the one that determine what the Engineering's work on next, I know because I have been there...
Wo gibt es die motorlager
Hallo wo gibet die lager mfg?
Hello guys, I’m a client of you, I just got the MK7.5 GTI without the virtual cockpit, if you guys make a tutorial retrofitting the virtual cockpit I’ll purchase it from your page