I hate paint stripper. Also on aluminum frames, if the paint is not chipping I figure the primer/base coat is better than anything I will put on so I try to keep it, sand it just enough to smooth it out and give a good layer for the new paint to adhere to. That said I’m kind of impatient also… 😂 and not a pro painter.
The thought definitely crossed my mind.. but you know.. stubbornness haha Also: you not being a pro painter.. as opposed to me (definitely a pro painter) hahaha
Get your paint stripper at a auto body supply its a game changer. Further more i agree on the sanding the paint down and painting over it. You really want to get scratches covered then use some highbuild primer and sand smooth. Boom professional job done
Always a good day when we get to hang out with Spindatt. I'm not the creative type, but hopefully this gives me the motivation and energy to get an old bike off the street and actually fix it up, instead of giving up because looking at all the issues and going "aaaa scary" is easier than remembering that over the course of a year I rebuild a full bike due to worn out parts across my fleet
Permatex gasket remover will strip pretty much anything, but as old shovel says, the factory primer is probably hard to beat for adhérence on barre métal, especially aluminium. It is much more easy to get a good bond on sanded paint that on bare metal for DYI jobs
With paint / powdercoat that doesn't respond as well to paint stripper, use it in combination with one of those paint and rust removal wheels you can put in any drill. When I started using those, I pretty much stopped using stripper altogether. Takes about an hour to strip a frame, and I typically don't even get through an entire wheel. 3M makes a good one. Some paint will bubble right off with the stripper, some...not so much, and requires constant scraping and reapplication. Annoying. Plus...it freaking burns, man.
I don't have anything to throw in the competition, but I do have a recently acquired set of his & hers Bicentennial Schwinn Varsities that will be my winter/knee surgery recovery projects. And congrats to Angela for finding the good stuff.
Found an old kids/teen 26 inch hardtail MTB. Currently stripping the paint off of it an can confirm that paintstripers are'nt what they are used to be. Planing on making a pumptrack bike with used parts.
Great segment. I picked up a super cool lugged Mercian frame in FUGLY brown with some rust. I need to strip, sand and primer. I bought some modern stripper but thinking of going with a nylon or brass abrasive wheel. I used to help my dad refinish furniture back in the 80's and used that gnarly Red Devil stripper - in the basement, no mask, and if you got it on your skin it'd burn like a mofo. I am still waiting for my kidneys to shut down.
You can avoid the random sanding lines left behind post stripping by immediately following the successful paint stripper operation with a coarse grade steel wool, moving in the same direction as the tubes it will make light work of soft and flaky paint, leaving you with a uniform surface to start with when it comes to your abrasives.
I use aircraft remover ultra gel that I get from O'Reilly auto parts. It's the new formula but works just like the old formula if not better. It's a little pricey ($30 a quart I think).
You send it to a powder coater and have it sand blasted or bead blasted. You then either paint it yourself, or have them powder coat it. Usually this is cheap and they can handle an entire car chassis and the body panels in their oven. Imagine, time saving, cost effective, and eco friendly all at the same time!
Yup and if you want something you can do yourself with minimal equipment, try soda blasting. Harbor Freight sells a kit. As long as you have an air compressor you're good to go.
@@paulkoller8104 That actually sounds reasonable for a one off job. Just the paint for custom work can cost $200-250. So for powder coating with prep and single color I think that's reasonable. The only way I could see less is if you let them use a color they were already running for another job so they didn't have to buy custom powder.
Good Lord, yes. Sandblasting is like $40 for a bike frame, and it's well-worth not having to deal with chemicals or making sure every nook and cranny is completely bare.
@@paulkoller8104 Indeed that was a bit much. Put into perspective though, that paint is tough, and it is unlikely you could do better work at home. In my case I think the guy was in a good mood, and I posted pics on his website. The decals were photographed and new ones were made at a sign company. That cost about $100. The seatpost was stuck and no longer made, so that got painted too.
I have a 2004-ish Specialized Sirrus Comp in candy blue that got some paint damage, mostly on the top tube, in my recent move. I've been thinking about taking it down to bare aluminum around the entire diameter of the tube in the damaged spots, attempting to create a sort of "fade" from blue to bare. It may not work, but if can get it even close the effect should look pretty good and will be a lot easier than a full repaint. My plan is to use 100/200 dry then 400 grit wet sandpaper. The front derailleur and bottom bracket (seals are literally gone) need an overhaul anyway, so they will come off, but given the damage location, pretty much everything else can stay on.
I feel your pain, I’ve just done a frame, first coat did very little, advice from a friend reapply after 30 mins don’t brush on just dab or blot on - hey presto only took 2 days!! Agree will never do it again - shot blaster next time.
I recommend using steel wool or scotchbrite when around your tubes. The scraper is not very effective unless you're dealing with panels or large flat facets
Love your honesty and passion dude...... i hear you buddy itys exactly the same in UK its like the powers that be are slowly removing ALL the tools we had to do shit ourselves and making us as dependant as shit on the industries to provide a service rather than letting us DIY anything. anyways great film bro
I’ve had good luck with some stuff they sell at Kent, not as good as the old school stuff but closest I’ve found. Takes a few applications but it works quick. It’s called circa 1850 heavy body paint & varnish remover
Oh man I am going through this struggle. I have a possible entry bike that I've been stripping, and I am getting annoyed at how much work its taking to get the paint off. It used to be so much easier.
I paint stripped my bike a week ago. The first attempt failed. I then reapplied a !!!thick!!! layer of that gel and that worked! Of course I had wrapped the frame both times. I then washed it off with a bit of water, a sponge and a metal sponge. Of course all the stuff and leftovers go to the recycling depot. I will not repaint my 94 GT Tequesta. I love the current "naked" steel look.
Agh man... yeah, lessons learned. For a bike like that is it worth stripping all the paint? You could have sanded it down a bit, then a coat of primer, some sanding with a fine grain and ready for whatever paint job. I'm sure it's gonna come out awesome, tho!
@@ibrudy69 First, give it a really good clean, also with degreaser into the all the corners to get any grit and grease off. Next, any stickers/decals need to go. Use a heat gun to soften, then peel it off. Any glue residue clean off using acetone. Now the frame is ready for sanding. You may start with a 100 grit (dry) and then a 200 (wet). If there are any dents or deep scratches you can use filler and then sand it down again. Spray paint with primer, then sand it with 350 (wet). You are now ready for the actual paint job.
Think a heat gun would be useable? The nooks and crannies would be difficult but I use Safe Stripper Orange on my old bamboo rods. It works ok overnight. Not as nasty. However, it's removing old varnish.
so between paint stripper and finish frame...how did you get rid of all the small bits of paint that the stripper didn't remove? Sandpaper, wire brush drill wheel?
I've always used citristrip with good results. It's safe on the skin and biodegradable. Does the job even on factory paint jobs. Might have to use a wire brush or a rotary tool with a brush on some tough spots but it's worth it not having to deal with harsh chemicals.
Yes today's paint stripping sucks. I had to strip wood. It was horrible then a friend said hey ya wanna help me strip my bike to repaint...and yup nothing worked til his grandfather said here try this ...that stuff one whiff you'd be sky high. ..so ya know it was not good. We took it out side. And 2 hours later it was done. Now two hours was his grandfather helping. He knew what and how to correctly do it.
Dude ..!!I went and asked at my local Bikeshop to strip the bike frame said $160.😵 He said 3 days ; thus Iam thinking am gona do it my self🧐 thx for vid. Screw it Iam gona do it I have that 3m mask & then some. Thank u. I know at the end it would look slaming. What brand can use after I strip the paint.? To prevent rust & also I want to leave the raw look.
I already have a rough idea of what I want to do with a bike that I have. I just can't remember if it's a steel frame or aluminum. But I don't care. I just have high hopes, and am really excited for it. 10/10. This is a great idea. It'll be my first like, FULLY restore a bike type of thing. And I am so excited.
I doubt this is competition level, but I just bought a 1996 Cannondale M200 frame. I’m building a campus-type bike for my law partner’s son. I, of course, will be putting MicroSHIFT Advent on it. With racks, it’ll be perfectly fit for purpose. Those old Cannondales are nice frames. But I gotta find some 26” wheels.
I'm working on restoring a old poprad and one of the things on the list is new paint. I would love to learn how to make stickers that can replace the old lemond logos, when I re-spray it. PS. follow-up to the last video comment - took the bike to a shop and the seat tube just had corrosion in it and I have some wire brushes for a drill coming monday. Hopefully it will in tip top shape soon.
Love my poseidon redwood. But that paint scrapes off easy. Figure on a year or two I'll get it painted light blue. But geez, might get place to blast it fore powder coat.
Yep. Used to be able to actually strip paint with paint stripper.Now .....NOTHING HAPPENS, except frustration,followed by LOTS of sanding. In fact modern paint stripper should NOT be called paint stripper. Raw aluminum looks great.
The active ingredient to look for in the aircraft level strippers was phenol. The stuff is great. Tricky to get. The Methylene Chloride was nasty as nasty can be... but yes... it was a great paint stripper. I used to strip aircraft components for my job and having access to a strip bay and a media blasting machine was so good! You're right... time and patience, never do what a chemical can do. In this case you are battling better paint and not so great paint strippers.
That was kind of what I was thinking while I was letting my impatiens take over. Like: dang this paint must be pretty good haha I’ll be glad to keep my distance from the stuff from now on
I'm in the middle of a long drawn out hand sanding session for my project bike (got no parts for its final form or I'd enter the build-off) and got a paint stripper in the hopes to make it go quicker and it did absolutely nothing to the paint so I felt your pain with the start of this video. Thinking about that paint remover disc that people are talking about in the comments.
I picked up a "mystery" small hardtail at police auction for $50 - looked modern(ish) - turned out to be a 2018 Giant Liv!!! Stripping it has been not fun, just like in video. Paint will solidify again, ruining your wire brushes and paint brushes so use junk you are prepared to throw out when finished.
Isn't there a sand blasting place that rents by time? In 5 minutes you can blast all the paint off. Ask your DIY autobody friends, they might know a place nearby. Just have to tape up the surfaces you don't want blast, or just leave the old headsets, seatpost, and bb to protect those areas.
Wire brush attachments + drill = stripped frame in maybe 3 hrs of work? No chemicals. Also, wear eyepro. Edit: forgot with al frames it'd likely scratch too deep. Doh
You have to use an industrial style heat gun and get the frame and existing paint hot. This is CRUCIAL with the newer style paint strippers… cuz they suck.
![[ENGSUB] UNPRODUCTIVE DAY ใช้ชีวิต (เปื่อยๆ) ด้วยกัน 1 วัน! | OUROAD CLOSEFRiEND SS2 EP.9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pyYKZ3kra9w/mqdefault.jpg)
I hate paint stripper. Also on aluminum frames, if the paint is not chipping I figure the primer/base coat is better than anything I will put on so I try to keep it, sand it just enough to smooth it out and give a good layer for the new paint to adhere to. That said I’m kind of impatient also… 😂 and not a pro painter.
The thought definitely crossed my mind.. but you know.. stubbornness haha
Also: you not being a pro painter.. as opposed to me (definitely a pro painter) hahaha
Nylon wheel and drill. Job done. I stopped using the paint stripper about five years ago.
@@pastagreyhound this is the way
Yes this worked for me too, just sand it enough to smooth it.
Get your paint stripper at a auto body supply its a game changer.
Further more i agree on the sanding the paint down and painting over it. You really want to get scratches covered then use some highbuild primer and sand smooth. Boom professional job done
My local auto body repair shop will sandblast bicycle frames for 30 bucks.
Do you know if this will hurt aluminum frames?
😂
Always a good day when we get to hang out with Spindatt. I'm not the creative type, but hopefully this gives me the motivation and energy to get an old bike off the street and actually fix it up, instead of giving up because looking at all the issues and going "aaaa scary" is easier than remembering that over the course of a year I rebuild a full bike due to worn out parts across my fleet
This video had me cracking up! I'm never stripping the paint off my bike. If I think about it again, just going to watch this video again.
the rain on the shed roof ASMR nearly put me to sleep!
I use Rust-Oleum extra strength Aircraft Remover that is Non-Methylene Chloride and it works well. You can find it at most of the auto parts stores.
Yeah? I’d prefer that over the harsh stuff for sure
Permatex gasket remover will strip pretty much anything, but as old shovel says, the factory primer is probably hard to beat for adhérence on barre métal, especially aluminium. It is much more easy to get a good bond on sanded paint that on bare metal for DYI jobs
With paint / powdercoat that doesn't respond as well to paint stripper, use it in combination with one of those paint and rust removal wheels you can put in any drill. When I started using those, I pretty much stopped using stripper altogether. Takes about an hour to strip a frame, and I typically don't even get through an entire wheel. 3M makes a good one. Some paint will bubble right off with the stripper, some...not so much, and requires constant scraping and reapplication. Annoying. Plus...it freaking burns, man.
Great advice!
I think I am going to use the drill/wire wheel method. Then use auto paint (primer/metallic paint/clear coat)Thanks for the tip!
@@anielyantra1 don’t forget skin and eye protection!
I went through the same process. Stopped using the disgusting paint stripper and now only use the nylon wheel. Works great.
I don't have anything to throw in the competition, but I do have a recently acquired set of his & hers Bicentennial Schwinn Varsities that will be my winter/knee surgery recovery projects. And congrats to Angela for finding the good stuff.
I love that raw aluminum finish
Found an old kids/teen 26 inch hardtail MTB. Currently stripping the paint off of it an can confirm that paintstripers are'nt what they are used to be. Planing on making a pumptrack bike with used parts.
Very exiting! Not sure about dripping that chemical shit on the ground…. Maybe a tarp underneath might be better.
Paint is superfluous on Aluminum. It looks so beautiful, raw ART. (Aluminum is Real Too).
Great segment. I picked up a super cool lugged Mercian frame in FUGLY brown with some rust. I need to strip, sand and primer. I bought some modern stripper but thinking of going with a nylon or brass abrasive wheel. I used to help my dad refinish furniture back in the 80's and used that gnarly Red Devil stripper - in the basement, no mask, and if you got it on your skin it'd burn like a mofo. I am still waiting for my kidneys to shut down.
Glasses? If the stuff removes paint what will it do to the naked eye? Glasses is maybe a good idea.
No joke. I know a man lost his right eye vision.. 1 sec w/o goggles. Chemicals get overlooked on safety.
You can also use the DOT you have in your hydraulic brakes. That stuff will strip industrial paints.
You need to find a local company that does sandblasting. A lot less chemicals involved (if any) and quick results. Looks great though!
from what I've heard sand blasting an aluminum frame isn't the best idea. It great for steel but supposedly not for aluminum.
I’m not an expert but what I’m finding is that you don’t really need to take off the old paint. Just sand it down smooth and thin.
It never looks quite as good though, and sometimes the new paint is not compatible and doesn't last long before bubbling or peeling.
That frame looks so good sans paint; just clear coat it over Spindatt decals and a Norton head badge.
Who’s Norton? 🤓
I love these videos! Also Goggles and Gloves everytime homie.
Grinder goes br brr and jobs done without chemicals
You can avoid the random sanding lines left behind post stripping by immediately following the successful paint stripper operation with a coarse grade steel wool, moving in the same direction as the tubes it will make light work of soft and flaky paint, leaving you with a uniform surface to start with when it comes to your abrasives.
I use aircraft remover ultra gel that I get from O'Reilly auto parts. It's the new formula but works just like the old formula if not better. It's a little pricey ($30 a quart I think).
You send it to a powder coater and have it sand blasted or bead blasted. You then either paint it yourself, or have them powder coat it. Usually this is cheap and they can handle an entire car chassis and the body panels in their oven. Imagine, time saving, cost effective, and eco friendly all at the same time!
Yup and if you want something you can do yourself with minimal equipment, try soda blasting. Harbor Freight sells a kit. As long as you have an air compressor you're good to go.
I had a frame powder coated. Don't know if I got raped or a good deal, but it was $350. That said, it turned out awesome.
@@paulkoller8104 That actually sounds reasonable for a one off job. Just the paint for custom work can cost $200-250. So for powder coating with prep and single color I think that's reasonable. The only way I could see less is if you let them use a color they were already running for another job so they didn't have to buy custom powder.
Good Lord, yes. Sandblasting is like $40 for a bike frame, and it's well-worth not having to deal with chemicals or making sure every nook and cranny is completely bare.
@@paulkoller8104 Indeed that was a bit much. Put into perspective though, that paint is tough, and it is unlikely you could do better work at home. In my case I think the guy was in a good mood, and I posted pics on his website. The decals were photographed and new ones were made at a sign company. That cost about $100. The seatpost was stuck and no longer made, so that got painted too.
I have a 2004-ish Specialized Sirrus Comp in candy blue that got some paint damage, mostly on the top tube, in my recent move. I've been thinking about taking it down to bare aluminum around the entire diameter of the tube in the damaged spots, attempting to create a sort of "fade" from blue to bare. It may not work, but if can get it even close the effect should look pretty good and will be a lot easier than a full repaint. My plan is to use 100/200 dry then 400 grit wet sandpaper. The front derailleur and bottom bracket (seals are literally gone) need an overhaul anyway, so they will come off, but given the damage location, pretty much everything else can stay on.
I feel your pain, I’ve just done a frame, first coat did very little, advice from a friend reapply after 30 mins don’t brush on just dab or blot on - hey presto only took 2 days!! Agree will never do it again - shot blaster next time.
I recommend using steel wool or scotchbrite when around your tubes. The scraper is not very effective unless you're dealing with panels or large flat facets
Nice to hang out with you too Eric
Love your honesty and passion dude...... i hear you buddy itys exactly the same in UK its like the powers that be are slowly removing ALL the tools we had to do shit ourselves and making us as dependant as shit on the industries to provide a service rather than letting us DIY anything. anyways great film bro
I’ve had good luck with some stuff they sell at Kent, not as good as the old school stuff but closest I’ve found. Takes a few applications but it works quick. It’s called circa 1850 heavy body paint & varnish remover
I looked at that stuff, but just wasn’t sure it would be much better
@@Spindatt Nevermind, I didn’t get to the end of the video yet, that’s the same stuff Angela found. Works pretty good!
Oh man I am going through this struggle. I have a possible entry bike that I've been stripping, and I am getting annoyed at how much work its taking to get the paint off. It used to be so much easier.
You can still get aircraft grade stripper from 3m, usually from an auto body parts supplier
I paint stripped my bike a week ago. The first attempt failed. I then reapplied a !!!thick!!! layer of that gel and that worked! Of course I had wrapped the frame both times.
I then washed it off with a bit of water, a sponge and a metal sponge. Of course all the stuff and leftovers go to the recycling depot.
I will not repaint my 94 GT Tequesta. I love the current "naked" steel look.
Literally just got done doing this to a cheap huffy frame with a lot of surface area. Used citristrip. Was a grueling process without a blaster
Agh man... yeah, lessons learned. For a bike like that is it worth stripping all the paint? You could have sanded it down a bit, then a coat of primer, some sanding with a fine grain and ready for whatever paint job.
I'm sure it's gonna come out awesome, tho!
I'm a rookie but after watching this I agree. Can you suggest what grit to start and then finish with? Thanks in advance. Also, ( wet or dry) ?
@@ibrudy69 First, give it a really good clean, also with degreaser into the all the corners to get any grit and grease off. Next, any stickers/decals need to go. Use a heat gun to soften, then peel it off. Any glue residue clean off using acetone. Now the frame is ready for sanding. You may start with a 100 grit (dry) and then a 200 (wet). If there are any dents or deep scratches you can use filler and then sand it down again. Spray paint with primer, then sand it with 350 (wet). You are now ready for the actual paint job.
Think a heat gun would be useable? The nooks and crannies would be difficult but I use Safe Stripper Orange on my old bamboo rods. It works ok overnight. Not as nasty. However, it's removing old varnish.
so between paint stripper and finish frame...how did you get rid of all the small bits of paint that the stripper didn't remove? Sandpaper, wire brush drill wheel?
I've always used citristrip with good results. It's safe on the skin and biodegradable. Does the job even on factory paint jobs. Might have to use a wire brush or a rotary tool with a brush on some tough spots but it's worth it not having to deal with harsh chemicals.
Good to know! Thanks
What Rob Rob said. The stuff smells like Agent Orange... but in a good way.
Yes today's paint stripping sucks. I had to strip wood. It was horrible then a friend said hey ya wanna help me strip my bike to repaint...and yup nothing worked til his grandfather said here try this ...that stuff one whiff you'd be sky high. ..so ya know it was not good. We took it out side. And 2 hours later it was done. Now two hours was his grandfather helping. He knew what and how to correctly do it.
Love it raw looks class
I experienced the same problem ! Can’t find any paint remover in Canada that works well.
Another way is to flame it with a propane torch and then hit it up with a wire brush. Works very well.
Thanks for the video, Next one?? Wrapping with thermal Vinyl, cool designs!!!
Dude ..!!I went and asked at my local Bikeshop to strip the bike frame said $160.😵
He said 3 days ; thus Iam thinking am gona do it my self🧐 thx for vid. Screw it Iam gona do it I have that 3m mask & then some. Thank u. I know at the end it would look slaming. What brand can use after I strip the paint.? To prevent rust & also I want to leave the raw look.
I already have a rough idea of what I want to do with a bike that I have. I just can't remember if it's a steel frame or aluminum. But I don't care. I just have high hopes, and am really excited for it.
10/10. This is a great idea. It'll be my first like, FULLY restore a bike type of thing. And I am so excited.
Do you have a magnet?
@@paulkoller8104 Yeah. It's just that the bike is about an hour drive away from me right now. So I haven't been able to check it.
What tool did you use to get into the annoying corners? Sandpaper? Grinder?
Well then I'm early 🤣 Keep up the great work Eric!
I doubt this is competition level, but I just bought a 1996 Cannondale M200 frame. I’m building a campus-type bike for my law partner’s son. I, of course, will be putting MicroSHIFT Advent on it. With racks, it’ll be perfectly fit for purpose.
Those old Cannondales are nice frames. But I gotta find some 26” wheels.
wonder where to dispose the removed material which is contaminated with the stripper stuff
i just did this and it worked on my forks kinda well but nothing came off the cranks like at all. or my stem
I'm working on restoring a old poprad and one of the things on the list is new paint. I would love to learn how to make stickers that can replace the old lemond logos, when I re-spray it.
PS. follow-up to the last video comment - took the bike to a shop and the seat tube just had corrosion in it and I have some wire brushes for a drill coming monday. Hopefully it will in tip top shape soon.
I've got an old road bike that I use that I so want to re-do I'm just not sure I could get it all back together
Love my poseidon redwood. But that paint scrapes off easy. Figure on a year or two I'll get it painted light blue. But geez, might get place to blast it fore powder coat.
Yep. Used to be able to actually strip paint with paint stripper.Now .....NOTHING HAPPENS, except frustration,followed by LOTS of sanding. In fact modern paint stripper should NOT be called paint stripper. Raw aluminum looks great.
so what is the product name to remove the paint?
I can't wait.
The active ingredient to look for in the aircraft level strippers was phenol. The stuff is great. Tricky to get. The Methylene Chloride was nasty as nasty can be... but yes... it was a great paint stripper. I used to strip aircraft components for my job and having access to a strip bay and a media blasting machine was so good! You're right... time and patience, never do what a chemical can do. In this case you are battling better paint and not so great paint strippers.
That was kind of what I was thinking while I was letting my impatiens take over. Like: dang this paint must be pretty good haha
I’ll be glad to keep my distance from the stuff from now on
I'm in the middle of a long drawn out hand sanding session for my project bike (got no parts for its final form or I'd enter the build-off) and got a paint stripper in the hopes to make it go quicker and it did absolutely nothing to the paint so I felt your pain with the start of this video. Thinking about that paint remover disc that people are talking about in the comments.
Thought about one of those too
Hi, May i ask how did you end up? What's the best way you would advise to remove the paint?
You can buff and polish and put a clear coating on it.👍
Buy all that paint stripper man!!!!!
I picked up a "mystery" small hardtail at police auction for $50 - looked modern(ish) - turned out to be a 2018 Giant Liv!!! Stripping it has been not fun, just like in video. Paint will solidify again, ruining your wire brushes and paint brushes so use junk you are prepared to throw out when finished.
Got the same disappointment with paintstripper. I also wrapped my bikeframe in. Just like 30% got stripped a bit. 😒
Set a budget for the bike build off. I’ve got a few ideas juggling and also rules/guidelines.
Why not use an angle grinder with a paint removing disc?
I've had good luck with having my frames sand blasted with glass bead
glad i didnt even try paint stripper on either of my latest builds. straight to the orb sander
how do i paint a polished alloy bike frame to look TITANIUM COLOR? does anyone know which colors to mix pleaseeeeeeeeeee??? thanks in advance!
just as I'm thinking about re-painting my CCM rigid commuter bike. Also, I've heard you mention NB a few times, do you live up there?
Where did you put the trash / chemicals? Left it outside???
Raked up with the leaves and put in the garbage
Have you thought about turning this into a mid or even low trail bike via the fork?
I always bring my projects to the Powder coating place and they sand blast my frames for me.
Had a friend who would strip and powder coat frames for me at his job when it was slow...for $10 lol
Hope this competition actually increases your total number of subscribers. Want to keep you around longer.
I’ll always be around! Have hated every “real job” I’ve ever had haha
Though I think it’ll get more people over here!
I had same poor results from that stuff, ended up using a drill with wire wheel to strip my steel frame.
Same experience i had
Man, that raw metal looks great
I vote it be called:
THE FIRST ANNUAL FROM 'CORNY TO COOL' BICYCLE BUILDOFF BROUGHT TO YOU BY SPINDAT AND HIS DOG
There is a good chance the frame was powder coated. Paint would bubble right up and flake off easy.
Haha @8:47 ... That is a great incentive to subscribe ;-)
My current mtb is a “SANTA CLAUZ”. Got stolen a fitness “UNSPECIALIZED” ☹️☹️
At some point you probably develop a relationship with with someone who sand blasts. A custom paint shop where I live does it for 60 bucks.
Facts, I manipulated a local bike shop employee to paint my bike in their booth for free.
Yup I've had 2 old steel mtb frames and a BMX frame sandblasted by a friend for $75CDN
What's Carbon?
Deconstruction is not always pretty. Thanks for the warning. And the conversation.
To Paint or not to Paint, That is the Question? Me. I'm on team buffed Alu.
Isn't there a sand blasting place that rents by time? In 5 minutes you can blast all the paint off. Ask your DIY autobody friends, they might know a place nearby. Just have to tape up the surfaces you don't want blast, or just leave the old headsets, seatpost, and bb to protect those areas.
Wire brush attachments + drill = stripped frame in maybe 3 hrs of work? No chemicals. Also, wear eyepro.
Edit: forgot with al frames it'd likely scratch too deep. Doh
That Circa 1850 stuff is magical. Don't inhale it though haha.
I picked up a crackhead Gary Fisher bike for $20 then had it blasted and powder coated for $150. It was done in 3 hours.
For me the old man yelling started at 23.
You have to use an industrial style heat gun and get the frame and existing paint hot. This is CRUCIAL with the newer style paint strippers… cuz they suck.
ALWAYS SAND THE CLEARCOAT FIRST!! That's the issue boys and girls!
Scotchbrite the frame and clear coat it now. Should look awesome
I would love to see the results of old school paint stripper on a carbon frame 😂
Maybe try a pressure washer instead of a scraper
They have aircraft remover at autozone
guaranteed it doesn't work
Try to use gloves and protection glasses, always a good idea when doing stuff like this.
Did in the last half with the gross stuff
I just realized you had like four costume changes in 6 hours. What...were you up to that day?
Me: "If he says "Subscribe or I'll come and strip your frame" i'll say my frame is carbon...
Oh.. touché.
Dude you got to take some 100 grit sandpaper and sand the frame first then apply the chemicals
30 years old isn't that old yet. maybe an alloy frame is or a paint stripper from 30 years ago
That's why my paintstripper didn't work... I thought it was because of the type of paint
Yo, just use those blue cotton masks! They protect against even the corona nano particles bro