This is great. I've been using the tarty and ali approaches but the problem I've had is that it's been very difficult to hold the grinder with one hand while pushing the power button continuously. This approach allows me to use two hands on the grinder. Thank you Rich!
Great technique..!! Thanks for sharing. Now I can use both hands to control. Basically I will grind off the surface than done by hand sawing same side. Will work the best brake performance. You should try another way adding violin raising it good for wet days. Once again thanks you. Cheers
Good video! Like the piece of wood idea to separate the rubber from the rim. Just thinking, you could point the grinder's disk to spin away from the frame, that can help avoid all the dust/crap from going all over the chain/frame. Would a video on other tips/tricks on bike setup and each specific components, e.g. how to remove a BB or tighten spokes, could be useful (for me it would be!), or options for chain tension or bleeding brakes / cutting hydraulic brake cables, stuff like that, not sure if there is anything else.
Anyone try this with disk brakes? I wouldn't do this to rims. But maybe some 120 grit on brand new disks would be easier than walking up a hill 5 times to burn them in.
Of course for rim brakes, it is a must. For the disk brakes bit, seems like a bad idea, would that slightly lessen the total contact area, resulting in less stopping power, just wondering.
I couldn't be more grateful for my dual disc bike's stealthy quiet Tryall/Hope TrialZone goodness. Rim grinds need not apply! Stealthy, silent brakes result in fewer "Get off my lawn" reactions to a trials session.
I don't know why ive not seen the plywood trick before!? Way better than holding the tyre out the way with my fingers or toes.
This is great. I've been using the tarty and ali approaches but the problem I've had is that it's been very difficult to hold the grinder with one hand while pushing the power button continuously. This approach allows me to use two hands on the grinder. Thank you Rich!
Happy to help 🙂
Using that bit of plywood is genius! I wish I'd thought of that before! Thanks for the tips Rich!
No problem 👍
Great technique..!! Thanks for sharing. Now I can use both hands to control. Basically I will grind off the surface than done by hand sawing same side. Will work the best brake performance. You should try another way adding violin raising it good for wet days. Once again thanks you. Cheers
Good video! Like the piece of wood idea to separate the rubber from the rim. Just thinking, you could point the grinder's disk to spin away from the frame, that can help avoid all the dust/crap from going all over the chain/frame.
Would a video on other tips/tricks on bike setup and each specific components, e.g. how to remove a BB or tighten spokes, could be useful (for me it would be!), or options for chain tension or bleeding brakes / cutting hydraulic brake cables, stuff like that, not sure if there is anything else.
nois will definitely try it out. Concerning the rim cracking at spokeholes - use washers on the nipples ;)
That’s a good idea!
Plywood is a great idea
Would it not be better to grind the other way so the grind dust gets blown away from your hub/ chain rather than into it?
I second that notion!
Saves all that hot alloy dust sticking to everything 👍
Anyone try this with disk brakes? I wouldn't do this to rims. But maybe some 120 grit on brand new disks would be easier than walking up a hill 5 times to burn them in.
Of course for rim brakes, it is a must. For the disk brakes bit, seems like a bad idea, would that slightly lessen the total contact area, resulting in less stopping power, just wondering.
I couldn't be more grateful for my dual disc bike's stealthy quiet Tryall/Hope TrialZone goodness. Rim grinds need not apply! Stealthy, silent brakes result in fewer "Get off my lawn" reactions to a trials session.