I resisted grinding my rims on my pure for SOOOOOO long, trying different pads and tar and so on. Finally ground them and it all makes sense now. WAY better braking performance with a grind. Absolute confidence in your rear brake makes taking your riding to the limit much easier. Nice little vid Ali.
Used to have a rough ceramic rim finish for my Pashley 26Mhz. Worked a treat with the Maguras. Mavic rim but can't remember the model. Ah, the good old days. How I miss them.
Great vid! Gotta say I prefer to use a coarse flapper disc in the grinder. More even finish and less chance of accidentally digging a lump out the rim. Just my opinion Any more comps coming up ali? Love the comp vids 👍🏻
Very true. But you can get flappy discs that go down to 16 grit which are evil but contact the rim on a flatter plain. I suppose it's just down to how careful you are with the grinder. I imagine the tartybike boys are very well practiced 😉 Always look forward to the next vid. Keep up the awesome work 👍🏻
Only done this a few times, but I put the wheel back on the bike. Spin the wheel then you can hold the grinder in on place with the same pressure all the time.
If you want to save your fingers from the disc then put something between the tire and the rim (I use a longer screwdriver or allenkey ). Then you don't have to hold the tire with your hand/fingers and it's a bit safer that way. Also it's easier as you can grind more of the rim in one go. dunno if my explanation made any sense lol :D
If a rim was not made of soft aluminium (I imagine most are) , e.g. steel(I know weight would be an issue maybe), would the grind last longer? Just wondering if different metals/materials have been tested/explored. Does it need to be metal, how about other materials like plastic resins? Or instead of grinding, use tar?
Tar on a wet rim is VERY exciting! Like riding brakeless in the rain. Steel would last longer and take a surface like a bastard file. Grip would probably be phenomenal, weight might be an issue and braking could chew brake pads in nano-seconds. Ground alu works very well with the right pads, light, easy etc. I'm not sure if we'd get a volunteer to try a grind on some carbon rims.......any takers??
@@Ali_Clarkson Hmm, I think it could be complex to manufacture, carbon rim with steel side wall, not that it would help me at all (rubbish skills!), but it would give good strength, lightweight! Even someone (average joe dept) could just setup their own experiment at first with an old normal alu rim, glue thin steel sheet (I;m talking millimetres thickness, grind that) on the sides. It would make a rim last almost forever in terms of grinding, when the steel wears thin just glue a new one on (would also need to sort out a good method of attaching, glue sounds like the easiet way). I would be interested to try it.
I guess a complex super-rim could be developed but at what cost? Imagine how you'd feel creasing it on a kerb. It's a bit of a cost v benefit, form vs function design headache. Alu is cheap, available, sussed etc. but may also be a stagnation of design. DMcG did demonstrate carbon rims to be outrageously strong. Having a good long rethink of wheel design for trials riding could be a fun engineering MSc for someone?
20" wheels are as tough as old boots so can stand the weird loads of stopping a rim by braking the hub (disc brake) then pogoing around to avoid wearing out the front tyre....or to hop up something. 26" are a bit more flexible so stopping the rim is lot less cruel to the rest of the wheel when you're bouncing around on one wheel. Rim brakes also make a distinctive squawk, the mating call of the trials aficionado.
I resisted grinding my rims on my pure for SOOOOOO long, trying different pads and tar and so on. Finally ground them and it all makes sense now. WAY better braking performance with a grind. Absolute confidence in your rear brake makes taking your riding to the limit much easier. Nice little vid Ali.
My (used ) trials bike rim came like this , I thought it was worn or damaged so I bought a new rim , haha😅🤣👍
I didn't even know this was a thing. Very cool!
Grinding trials wheels brings me back. The other trials trick I did was also rub my rim with a pine tar bar so it was extra sticky!
Thanks Lonoreturns for answering my question and I will most definitely will not be doing that to my 26er’s wheels.
Used to have a rough ceramic rim finish for my Pashley 26Mhz. Worked a treat with the Maguras. Mavic rim but can't remember the model. Ah, the good old days. How I miss them.
Great tutorial video on a mysterious subject for street trials riders with disc brakes. Nice to see how the true trials riders get their honks!
Great vid!
Gotta say I prefer to use a coarse flapper disc in the grinder. More even finish and less chance of accidentally digging a lump out the rim.
Just my opinion
Any more comps coming up ali?
Love the comp vids 👍🏻
Very true. But you can get flappy discs that go down to 16 grit which are evil but contact the rim on a flatter plain.
I suppose it's just down to how careful you are with the grinder. I imagine the tartybike boys are very well practiced 😉
Always look forward to the next vid. Keep up the awesome work 👍🏻
Deffo, linishing pads all the way!
Only done this a few times, but I put the wheel back on the bike. Spin the wheel then you can hold the grinder in on place with the same pressure all the time.
@@Ali_Clarkson Just use brake cleaner to get rid of any release agent.
Great short little video and useful to know for next time I grind my rim
I have just had a long series of problems on my onza ska. Emailled tartybikes, they have been sooo helpfull. Use them for every trials need guys!
If you want to save your fingers from the disc then put something between the tire and the rim (I use a longer screwdriver or allenkey ). Then you don't have to hold the tire with your hand/fingers and it's a bit safer that way. Also it's easier as you can grind more of the rim in one go. dunno if my explanation made any sense lol :D
finally someone that knows to leave the tire on for grinding
Thanks for good tutorial, even if I plan to change brakes to discs!
so tickle the rim? sounds like a lovely time.
Why do you grind the rim with a tire on? What are the advantages?
A dremel seems like a better options!
I grind my front rim with V brakes with wore out pads until I sea a hole or a groove in it
Would it be worth to do on something like old school mtb? Or would that just ruin my rims?
Can this be done to a V-BRAKED fully rigid 26er mountain bike that’s now a street cruiser?.
Yeah, but it makes the brakes really grabbie. It is an on or off situation. Not good for cruising round the streets. Plus lots of noise.
What about a wire brush? Or a heavy pad?
What's your opinion on maxis creepy crawler tire vs Kaiser?
If a rim was not made of soft aluminium (I imagine most are) , e.g. steel(I know weight would be an issue maybe), would the grind last longer? Just wondering if different metals/materials have been tested/explored.
Does it need to be metal, how about other materials like plastic resins?
Or instead of grinding, use tar?
Tar on a wet rim is VERY exciting! Like riding brakeless in the rain. Steel would last longer and take a surface like a bastard file. Grip would probably be phenomenal, weight might be an issue and braking could chew brake pads in nano-seconds. Ground alu works very well with the right pads, light, easy etc. I'm not sure if we'd get a volunteer to try a grind on some carbon rims.......any takers??
@@dewindoethdwl2798 :) I guess alu it is then, tried and tested.
@@Ali_Clarkson I always thought steel was softer than aluminum? I wonder if something like truck bed liner would work...
@@Ali_Clarkson Hmm, I think it could be complex to manufacture, carbon rim with steel side wall, not that it would help me at all (rubbish skills!), but it would give good strength, lightweight! Even someone (average joe dept) could just setup their own experiment at first with an old normal alu rim, glue thin steel sheet (I;m talking millimetres thickness, grind that) on the sides. It would make a rim last almost forever in terms of grinding, when the steel wears thin just glue a new one on (would also need to sort out a good method of attaching, glue sounds like the easiet way). I would be interested to try it.
I guess a complex super-rim could be developed but at what cost? Imagine how you'd feel creasing it on a kerb. It's a bit of a cost v benefit, form vs function design headache. Alu is cheap, available, sussed etc. but may also be a stagnation of design. DMcG did demonstrate carbon rims to be outrageously strong. Having a good long rethink of wheel design for trials riding could be a fun engineering MSc for someone?
HacK! This in the country that required engineers to understand the concept of machining first
THIS TITLE IS GROSSLY MISLEADING
Martin Mollerup I don’t see how ?
Or did you take along the lines of grinding in the bmx/skateboard term
You are leading us there :)
@@martyshobbyisland channel your dirty-minded powers
Would you recommend to do this in bmx ?
No
@@Ali_Clarkson why ?
@@dreiiiii957 it’ll make the brake really noisy and have no modulation…unless that’s what you want?
@@Ali_Clarkson but will it makes my brakes stronger ?
Would you ever try brake less on your hex
Sean watson rides brakeless check him out.
Nice
not enough blast beats to be grind :P
Ok
10/10
Not concern about rust ?????
Its aluminium :)
Noice
Or just use a disk brake for god's sake, it's not 1850!
@@Ali_Clarkson Ok, that explains why hydraulic rim brakes exist at all (I had no idea they are a thing before this series).
20" wheels are as tough as old boots so can stand the weird loads of stopping a rim by braking the hub (disc brake) then pogoing around to avoid wearing out the front tyre....or to hop up something. 26" are a bit more flexible so stopping the rim is lot less cruel to the rest of the wheel when you're bouncing around on one wheel. Rim brakes also make a distinctive squawk, the mating call of the trials aficionado.
Great short little video and useful to know for next time I grind my rim