Thanks again for the video. This applies to my Tanaka blower. My bulb was squeaking and not filling up. Turns out that this hidden fuel line had a split in it where it connected to the carb. I was minutes away from buying a new blower. I sure appreciate it!!
You are the man! Easy fix once I watched the vid. Like another poster, my 3rd tube was split hence no vacuum to draw the gas. If your gulp doesn't hold pressure this is your issue. Anyways, u can buy 2" of fuel line from your local hardware store - most have it bulk. Easy to install and started and ran sure enough. If u can't get the fuel line in, soak the ends in really hot water for 10 seconds. Voila.
The 2 lines on the right side of the carb are the drain back to the tank from the bulb (nearest you viewed from the end) and the line from the tank to the carb. The line on the left side has a spring inside it to keep it open and not collapsed...
Great video, It was my problem, and I am Offering a work around. Drain the gas, remove the tube (Clear) from the bulb assembly at the fuel tank, Remove the supply tube from the tank to the bulb assembly (black), Turn the blower over, remove the fuel tank, 3 screws and the 3rd tube is accessible. You are right the spring is too long. Thanks again.
I had to order replacement hoses for mine and I put them on today. it is a royal pain to get the clear one that goes on the right side of the priming bulb to go through the grommet and into the fuel tank. I couldn't get it to where it was in the fuel so I tilted the blower to help that situation. But, when I press the priming bulb it isn't picking up fuel. I know the bulb is good because I had it off and tested the inlet and outlet ports with my fingers over them. So, I'll go back out to it and try again.
Basic fuel flow system, good demo! I have an additional problem when using after 5 minutes rpm's drop and cut off switch will not shut down, blower is obviously straining with excess friction, wrong combustion chamber function..., ?. I can put choke and flood it to stop quicker. When cold this is not the case. Cold it is a rock star. Warm has half the blowing power. Anyone else with this problem?
You're welcome. I wasn't sure if it would help anyone. I think next time, I need to find a really small LED light and tape it to the screwdriver "pointer" so you can see what I'm talking about inside that crevice, to the left of the carb.
My "air filter" is deteriorating. I can't bring myself to buy an Amazon replacement for $9, esp. when all reviewers say it needs to be cut up to fit. What I'd like to find is a strip of foam of the correct depth and width, so I could just lop off a foot whenever I wanted to change the filter. A yard of this would cost maybe 10 cents to make and could sell for $10.
How do you remove the black Philips bolt going through the gas tank to the pull cord housing? I almost stripped it and lubricating sprays aren't helping either
I saw when I first got my leaf blower from Amazon that peeps were having starting problems and mentioned the fuel line. I never had the problem until year number 2 of owning this. Never saw the hidden hose. Thanks!.... Also can anyone confirm that the clear hose that goes into the tank does NOT go down into the gas tank very far???? Mine just hovers above the gas when it is filled in the tank.
Yeah - that's definitely the return. That's the problematic line on mine. It doesn't actually make it into the tank, so when I press the bulb it just spews gas from the return ;) I'm hoping to replace it!
13/16" SAE is the socket size to remove the plug to inspect and clean it. But good luck finding that obvious info in Google search.... the one obvious fact you need to pull a plug and nowhere to be easily found. I figured a way to do it and then bought the socket that fits. Mine has a new clear fuel line (pulls fuel when the bulb is pumped at start/prime) and a new plug and after coaxing 15-20 times, the pull start rope can be used to try a start. But it seems to prime OK and yet will never start. It seems to be ready to start, but will not. Air filter was cleaned and all 3 hoses seems OK now and I have pre-mixed hot fuel for it. Puzzled .... for 4-5years it started right up and this spring it will not start at all. Replacement carb for my exact model (Hitachi RB24EAP) in eBay is not a match to the original carb as shipped several years back... so beware!
Mine starts great every time when cold, but when hot it starts hard. I then half to tip it foward and choke it a bit to get it going, where it still sputters for a while, but eventually clears up. Any ideas?
For all starts the bulb should be pumped 5X or until bubbles clear the line. Electric switch on. Squeeze gas trigger full. From cold: Choke down, pull 2 or 3 X until it wants to start then move choke up. If it cuts, just pull again. From warm: Choke up. Pull to start. Easier start than almost any other 2-cycle motor.
It has been a long time since I laid eyes on my leafblower, but maybe you could somehow heat up the materiel the screws go into to make it expand a little, hopefully freeing up the screws... possibly very hot water from your kitchen stovetop, poured over that material? Sorry I don't have anything definitive for you.
These Hitachi units are such junk. I used mine 3 times before it started spraying fuel everywhere when pressing the bulb. Emailed the company and they said "so sorry - this is not covered under warranty"! Ironically, they've recently introduced "DURABILITY" as their slogan. What a joke Hitachi is. For those of you on the fence, don't buy Hitachi. Go with Echo or Stihl instead. They have their problems also, but at least those two companies will attempt to help you and not just shoe you off when a bad design problem plagues their machines.
Why do this yourself? Bought this model this summer (2017) and it comes with a 7 year warranty. I'd take it to a local authorized repair center before I take it apart and void the warranty.
Thanks again for the video. This applies to my Tanaka blower. My bulb was squeaking and not filling up. Turns out that this hidden fuel line had a split in it where it connected to the carb.
I was minutes away from buying a new blower. I sure appreciate it!!
Thanks for the video , I have this Hitachi leaf blower for the last five years. Started to act up, got it fixed .
You are the man! Easy fix once I watched the vid. Like another poster, my 3rd tube was split hence no vacuum to draw the gas. If your gulp doesn't hold pressure this is your issue. Anyways, u can buy 2" of fuel line from your local hardware store - most have it bulk. Easy to install and started and ran sure enough. If u can't get the fuel line in, soak the ends in really hot water for 10 seconds. Voila.
The 2 lines on the right side of the carb are the drain back to the tank from the bulb (nearest you viewed from the end) and the line from the tank to the carb. The line on the left side has a spring inside it to keep it open and not collapsed...
Thanks Andy, that fixed the problem with my dad's Hitachi!
Thanks dude you saved me a lot of trouble and it was a simple 5 minute fix.
Found your video, very informative, pretty much what I was looking for and more. Thanks!!
Black is the fuel tank vent. Clear as you describe is the primer fuel feed. Hidden hose must feed the carb.
Great video, It was my problem, and I am Offering a work around.
Drain the gas, remove the tube (Clear) from the bulb assembly at the fuel tank, Remove the supply tube from the tank to the bulb assembly (black),
Turn the blower over, remove the fuel tank, 3 screws and the 3rd tube is accessible. You are right the spring is too long. Thanks again.
I had to order replacement hoses for mine and I put them on today. it is a royal pain to get the clear one that goes on the right side of the priming bulb to go through the grommet and into the fuel tank. I couldn't get it to where it was in the fuel so I tilted the blower to help that situation. But, when I press the priming bulb it isn't picking up fuel. I know the bulb is good because I had it off and tested the inlet and outlet ports with my fingers over them. So, I'll go back out to it and try again.
Exactly the problem with my 4 yr old blower, right down to trimming the spring! Awesome - Thanks so much!
Thanks a ton. Took more time to find the video than it did to fix the problem. lol
Mine kicks but after 3 years! The on/off switch unfortunately stopped working.
Spark and fuel present , still no start possible weak coil ?
I’ve had the same model for 4 years starts on the 2nd pull no issues And I use sea foam
Basic fuel flow system, good demo! I have an additional problem when using after 5 minutes rpm's drop and cut off switch will not shut down, blower is obviously straining with excess friction, wrong combustion chamber function..., ?. I can put choke and flood it to stop quicker. When cold this is not the case. Cold it is a rock star. Warm has half the blowing power. Anyone else with this problem?
You're welcome. I wasn't sure if it would help anyone. I think next time, I need to find a really small LED light and tape it to the screwdriver "pointer" so you can see what I'm talking about inside that crevice, to the left of the carb.
This was very helpful and fixed my issue. Easy once I saw your video. Thanks!
My "air filter" is deteriorating. I can't bring myself to buy an Amazon replacement for $9, esp. when all reviewers say it needs to be cut up to fit. What I'd like to find is a strip of foam of the correct depth and width, so I could just lop off a foot whenever I wanted to change the filter. A yard of this would cost maybe 10 cents to make and could sell for $10.
Awsomeness!!!! Great video. You saved me a dinner at Outback! thanks!
How do you remove the black Philips bolt going through the gas tank to the pull cord housing? I almost stripped it and lubricating sprays aren't helping either
After 8 years mine died today quit while running .
I saw when I first got my leaf blower from Amazon that peeps were having starting problems and mentioned the fuel line. I never had the problem until year number 2 of owning this. Never saw the hidden hose. Thanks!.... Also can anyone confirm that the clear hose that goes into the tank does NOT go down into the gas tank very far???? Mine just hovers above the gas when it is filled in the tank.
Soulcommander It sounds like the fuel return line...
Yeah - that's definitely the return. That's the problematic line on mine. It doesn't actually make it into the tank, so when I press the bulb it just spews gas from the return ;) I'm hoping to replace it!
How to you remove the priming bulb once you have opened the cover?
13/16" SAE is the socket size to remove the plug to inspect and clean it. But good luck finding that obvious info in Google search.... the one obvious fact you need to pull a plug and nowhere to be easily found. I figured a way to do it and then bought the socket that fits. Mine has a new clear fuel line (pulls fuel when the bulb is pumped at start/prime) and a new plug and after coaxing 15-20 times, the pull start rope can be used to try a start. But it seems to prime OK and yet will never start. It seems to be ready to start, but will not. Air filter was cleaned and all 3 hoses seems OK now and I have pre-mixed hot fuel for it. Puzzled .... for 4-5years it started right up and this spring it will not start at all. Replacement carb for my exact model (Hitachi RB24EAP) in eBay is not a match to the original carb as shipped several years back... so beware!
Mine starts great every time when cold, but when hot it starts hard. I then half to tip it foward and choke it a bit to get it going, where it still sputters for a while, but eventually clears up. Any ideas?
For all starts the bulb should be pumped 5X or until bubbles clear the line. Electric switch on. Squeeze gas trigger full.
From cold: Choke down, pull 2 or 3 X until it wants to start then move choke up. If it cuts, just pull again.
From warm: Choke up. Pull to start. Easier start than almost any other 2-cycle motor.
any tips on how to get the Philips screws out that hold on the carb?
It has been a long time since I laid eyes on my leafblower, but maybe you could somehow heat up the materiel the screws go into to make it expand a little, hopefully freeing up the screws... possibly very hot water from your kitchen stovetop, poured over that material? Sorry I don't have anything definitive for you.
Hitachi should have adopted the delayed-roller blowback system. This would solve the problems I encountered with my flux capacitor add-on.
keep your day job
I'm pretty sure you'll need the upgrade on the thermal coupler installed prior
Thanks so much you saved my bacon. Regards
These Hitachi units are such junk. I used mine 3 times before it started spraying fuel everywhere when pressing the bulb. Emailed the company and they said "so sorry - this is not covered under warranty"! Ironically, they've recently introduced "DURABILITY" as their slogan. What a joke Hitachi is. For those of you on the fence, don't buy Hitachi. Go with Echo or Stihl instead. They have their problems also, but at least those two companies will attempt to help you and not just shoe you off when a bad design problem plagues their machines.
Mines still running great, I'll save this video just in case. Used it last week - th-cam.com/video/OXBcD1jTqm0/w-d-xo.html
Why do this yourself? Bought this model this summer (2017) and it comes with a 7 year warranty. I'd take it to a local authorized repair center before I take it apart and void the warranty.
If you can find one near you
review a video before posting.... use a flashlight so we can see the hidden line and where it runs.