Absolutely! All of it, and the more, the better, As a former framer from back in the 70's, I see today's framers NOT providing any blocking for window curtain rods. Sure, they put in headers, but they sit back from the back of the drywall, so you have to use useless drywall anchors to mount the hardware, and 9 times out of 10, they end up pulling out and now you have drywall to fix!
@reb2322, good point about the need for backing for curtain rods. I would add to that list blocking for support of clothes rods in closets and blocking at short wall (less than 30 inches) baseboard area. The last gives something for the baseboard to grasp other than just at the two ends. And a definite "yes" to adding blocking for anchoring stair railings, particularly at the top and bottom of the railing when the railings features extra ornamental flourishes at the ends, such as with a metal railing. And don't forget the thin blocking needed to support pocket doors.
Great video Joe. I've built quite a few walls and I have only used blocking where I needed to fasten something. I always wondered if there was a fire code requirement. You have answered that question.Very nice presentation. Looking forward to looking at some of your other videos. Thanks, Paul
Hi Joe Thanks again for your amazing lessons which I've learned a lot from them. I'm just wondering about bracing straps and their applications. Thank you very much 🙏
The exterior sheathing on some parts of my house is 1/2" drywall. I'm a little concerned this doesn't provide enough rigidity. The interior side of my attached garage exterior wall is bare so Ive been planning to block it before insulating and drywalling. This video has been by far the best one I've found on how to go about it. Many thanks!! I plan to do staggered blocking with the 2x side of the blocks facing up so I can run insulation behind the blocks. Does this sound like a good approach?
Thanks for the nice comment about our video. The sheathing is only "required" for shear strength on certain walls - not all walls. Often, modern homes are sheathed all over for a variety of reasons other than strength. It could be as a backing for a bulk water control layer like Tyvek or part of a required air barrier system. Thus why you could see 1/2 drywall in some places. If you are insulating and then adding drywall to your attached garage wall please make sure that you spend time on air sealing any cracks first, that is the best conditioning that you can do, then add the insulation and drywall on the garage side. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but you should consider the location of any vapor barrier also.
Thx for the video. What are your thoughts on putting blocking directly on top of bottom plate… to potentially prevent bottom of the studs from moving/warping ?
The bottom of the studs is not the problem - that is held in place with nails. Studs can twist and bow - then you can use blocking as a preventative measure and put them somewhere in the middle
Thanks for the comment - we may have a couple of week break in new content release as we focus on helping out our teacher community with the new school year.
@3:21 In the example of the blocking every 2 feet to support a perpendicular wall, how do you address framing to provide an inside corner for sheet rock to secure too since it will be the end/edge of a sheet?
If the blocks themselves every two feet are inadequate for your code/standards, you can use a 2x6 stud as a drywall nailer, centered at the end of the perpendicular wall, then add blocking behind the 2x6 to support, plumb up, and straighten your perpendicular wall.
Depends on the wall and building code. But generally you will want it at the height of your drywall boards to give something to put drywall screws horizontally.
So can fire blocking be anywhere in that 10 foot area if your walls are over 10 tall. For instance, if you have a 12 foot wall can the fire blocking be at 6ft or does it have to be exactly 10 ft.
Sorry, we don't have any on that, as that is a little more involved than a basic framing series. If you do it be careful and make sure you have the bearing points supported when you are replacing the wall. If you are actually thinking about permanently removing a load-bearing wall - just don't.
Not sure what you mean about elevations and specifically the math for civil work. It is not likely that we will add civil construction to our plan reading series.
That would be what is called a led in brace. Typically installed on stucco homes that don't have shearwall (plywood) the stucco wire and stucco are the shear. These braces provide shear on framing before stucco wire and stucco is installed. They are recessed into the studs diagonally.
Blocking can be installed in any area that is 100% needed. I say 100% because in some climate zones blocking should not be added with wild abandonment. It added to thermal bridging and reduces the space for correct insulation installation
I am a bit confused, you mentioned that blocking needs to be placed face up( at 3:13) as fire blocking, then you mentioned that it needs to be placed edge up as it's more energy sufficient at 5:19.... then how should we really place it???
Not all blocking is the same, those two time stamps you provided are talking about two different types of blocking. Fire blocking is face up to seal the wall cavity and edge support blocking (which is NOT fire blocking) can be placed edge up.
The height of blocking is not universal. Install where it is needed for backing, if you are adding fire blocking it is usually installed midway up the wall
maybe. But Norbord is pretty excited about their tall board product that is designed to be installed vertically. Sheathing that overlaps the floor above.
Stagger slightly. You don't have to toe nail one side but that's an option. You can thru nail just above and below existing block to reach next block. You can also toenail in the face side, for those short blocks at the corner where neither nailer or hammer can fit.
I appreciate you guys sharing this knowledge with the homeowner/layman like myself
Our pleasure!
Absolutely!
All of it, and the more, the better,
As a former framer from back in the 70's, I see today's framers NOT providing any blocking for window curtain rods.
Sure, they put in headers, but they sit back from the back of the drywall, so you have to use useless drywall anchors to mount the hardware, and 9 times out of 10, they end up pulling out and now you have drywall to fix!
Blocking does have its place
@reb2322, good point about the need for backing for curtain rods. I would add to that list blocking for support of clothes rods in closets and blocking at short wall (less than 30 inches) baseboard area. The last gives something for the baseboard to grasp other than just at the two ends. And a definite "yes" to adding blocking for anchoring stair railings, particularly at the top and bottom of the railing when the railings features extra ornamental flourishes at the ends, such as with a metal railing.
And don't forget the thin blocking needed to support pocket doors.
Your presentations are informative, concise, and perfectly delivered. Thanks!
Glad you like them!
These videos are awesome and greatly appreciated
Dude, your scale model of a studded walls is amazeballs!
Can’t say I heard that adjective before, I will try to work it into my next conversation. B
Excellent teaching; I am really learning, thanks guys.
glad you found our channel
This Channel is killing it
Thanks, we appreciate it
We also put in blocking for drywall joints. Having a support behind the joints reduces risk of cracking and gives you more options for placing screws.
Certainly - blocking is added for all sorts of reasons. We hope it is installed sparingly to allow for as much insulation as possible
Great video Joe. I've built quite a few walls and I have only used blocking where I needed to fasten something. I always wondered if there was a fire code requirement. You have answered that question.Very nice presentation.
Looking forward to looking at some of your other videos.
Thanks,
Paul
Glad it was helpful! - Fire blocking is not always required - it is based on the height of the walls.
Excellent visuals and commentary.
Thanks for the complement and visiting our channel
i like the model walls while explaining, thank you!
Hi Joe
Thanks again for your amazing lessons which I've learned a lot from them. I'm just wondering about bracing straps and their applications.
Thank you very much 🙏
Buen día Maestro
Aprecio mucho tus vídeos y instrucción
Sigo aprendiendo de tus lecciones
Te lo agradezco, e sido bendecido
Gracias
Bendiciones 👍
Thank you.
Please keep the videos coming!!!
sure thing
Another excellent video and you're a great teacher Joe.
Everything erything is so well presented and also very interesting & easy to follow.
Thanks for the kind words. We plan our videos for school aged youth with little to no experience. That way they work for everyone.
Would blocking help stop my walls from shaking when I hit them?
Great series. Thank you! 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
The exterior sheathing on some parts of my house is 1/2" drywall. I'm a little concerned this doesn't provide enough rigidity. The interior side of my attached garage exterior wall is bare so Ive been planning to block it before insulating and drywalling. This video has been by far the best one I've found on how to go about it. Many thanks!!
I plan to do staggered blocking with the 2x side of the blocks facing up so I can run insulation behind the blocks. Does this sound like a good approach?
Thanks for the nice comment about our video. The sheathing is only "required" for shear strength on certain walls - not all walls. Often, modern homes are sheathed all over for a variety of reasons other than strength. It could be as a backing for a bulk water control layer like Tyvek or part of a required air barrier system. Thus why you could see 1/2 drywall in some places. If you are insulating and then adding drywall to your attached garage wall please make sure that you spend time on air sealing any cracks first, that is the best conditioning that you can do, then add the insulation and drywall on the garage side. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but you should consider the location of any vapor barrier also.
What a great video. TV quality production. Subscribed.
Welcome aboard!
Thx for the video. What are your thoughts on putting blocking directly on top of bottom plate… to potentially prevent bottom of the studs from moving/warping ?
The bottom of the studs is not the problem - that is held in place with nails. Studs can twist and bow - then you can use blocking as a preventative measure and put them somewhere in the middle
@@ConstructionEd Thank you for the prompt response.
Great video, keep them coming!
Thanks for the comment - we may have a couple of week break in new content release as we focus on helping out our teacher community with the new school year.
Thanks teacher
@3:21 In the example of the blocking every 2 feet to support a perpendicular wall, how do you address framing to provide an inside corner for sheet rock to secure too since it will be the end/edge of a sheet?
If the blocks themselves every two feet are inadequate for your code/standards, you can use a 2x6 stud as a drywall nailer, centered at the end of the perpendicular wall, then add blocking behind the 2x6 to support, plumb up, and straighten your perpendicular wall.
I love your whole channel but do you have a book?
On a 10 feet wall, at what height it’s best to add blocking? Half way which if 5 feet off the ground?
Depends on the wall and building code. But generally you will want it at the height of your drywall boards to give something to put drywall screws horizontally.
Great videos
So can fire blocking be anywhere in that 10 foot area if your walls are over 10 tall. For instance, if you have a 12 foot wall can the fire blocking be at 6ft or does it have to be exactly 10 ft.
It can be at 6ft - but check your local code before you call for an inspection.
OSB is stronger when perpendicular to the stud also, so hard to get out of blocking for braced wall panels.
you are the best VDO
thanks
Any videos on removing a load bearing wall?
Sorry, we don't have any on that, as that is a little more involved than a basic framing series. If you do it be careful and make sure you have the bearing points supported when you are replacing the wall. If you are actually thinking about permanently removing a load-bearing wall - just don't.
Do a video on elevations and the math around that for civil work!
Not sure what you mean about elevations and specifically the math for civil work. It is not likely that we will add civil construction to our plan reading series.
Question: why do older homes have diagonal blockingv
That would be what is called a led in brace. Typically installed on stucco homes that don't have shearwall (plywood) the stucco wire and stucco are the shear. These braces provide shear on framing before stucco wire and stucco is installed. They are recessed into the studs diagonally.
What about ceiling blocking for drywall along parallel walls?
AKA known as
“dead wood”
Blocking can be installed in any area that is 100% needed. I say 100% because in some climate zones blocking should not be added with wild abandonment. It added to thermal bridging and reduces the space for correct insulation installation
I am trying to enroll into the courses those are asking me the enrollment key please guide me to enroll one!!!!! It's really very urgent!!!!!!!
the courses on tradeskillsu.online are not free - sorry
I am a bit confused, you mentioned that blocking needs to be placed face up( at 3:13) as fire blocking, then you mentioned that it needs to be placed edge up as it's more energy sufficient at 5:19.... then how should we really place it???
Not all blocking is the same, those two time stamps you provided are talking about two different types of blocking. Fire blocking is face up to seal the wall cavity and edge support blocking (which is NOT fire blocking) can be placed edge up.
How use calculator construction
How high from the base should I place blocking?
The height of blocking is not universal. Install where it is needed for backing, if you are adding fire blocking it is usually installed midway up the wall
OSB 4x8x7/16 $15.80 in bulk at Home Depot. What am I missing?
👍📐🔨New subscriber
welcome
Pretty certain you are in three minority with your vertical sheathing theory!
maybe. But Norbord is pretty excited about their tall board product that is designed to be installed vertically. Sheathing that overlaps the floor above.
so you did do nothing... how the heck do you block when the blocks are all lined up like that... how do you nail them in?
One of the pieces of blocking can nailed in the end through the stud and then the other end can be toe-nailed in place.
Half of them are glued ;)
Stagger slightly. You don't have to toe nail one side but that's an option. You can thru nail just above and below existing block to reach next block. You can also toenail in the face side, for those short blocks at the corner where neither nailer or hammer can fit.