Hairdryer/heat gun after taping to really get all the air bubbles pushed out and get that tight to the rim bed factory look. Blow torch the end of a pick or hex wrench to poke the valve hole, melts and seals the edges of the tape so there's no microtears that could potentially grow bigger and leak. On single wall rims (often seen on fatbikes e.g. Mulefut rims) use a concave conical washer from old V-brakes below the presta nut, this allows the valve to fully pull through the rim and not bottom out prematurely on the nut. Or you could get a Problem Solvers Super P-nut, does basically the same thing.
Another tip when it comes to chains: if you ride in cold weather on roads with road salt, make sure to rinse it off basically immediately after the ride. It's unbelievable how quick that road salt makes things rust/oxidize - don't underestimate that! I've had a chain turn rust brown within just two days after getting that road salt on there!
And then there's me, who simply applies layers of dry and wet lube on top of each other without cleaning anything, and removes the black, sticky layer of dirt and oil once a year with a screwdriver.
That was me until I snapped my first chain, having never realized how stretched (actually: worn) it was. Now I'm pretty good about keeping on top of the 'grinding paste'...
Yep, that was me before I discovered that you can just easily wipe off old dry wax if you're in time. The old wax contains most of the dirt, so that comes off along with it and chain deep cleaning is rarely necessary because of that.
@@komoonkh I'm aware of Steve but he was before my time in mtb so I haven't done much of watching his riding. Is he associated with this brand? If so, that's awesome!
Hi! This video was not a paid promotion. All the information in this video can be applied to any bike product brand you want to use. We work closely with Peaty's Products on the channel, so they're our go-to products of choice. :)
Cleaning off old oil and grease, then the dirt and muck that it attracts can all be completely eliminated by simply using hot wax, then after a couple hundred miles, top it off with a wax base drip emulsion. It's really not that much trouble to do, and your (expensive) drive train will last much longer.
Very well put together. If you want to get the wax out from a chain to re-apply it as clean as possible just use hot water from a kettle, it will melt the wax and take it out.
Yes, that's why they won't tell you hot melt wax will be cheaper and will make everything last longer, I love Anna and the team but yeah. 20$ a bottle won't buy you a miracle. Wax will, and it's cheaper
A more thorough clean without branded materials 1) Acetone - agitate chain in jar for 5 - 10 mins; 2) Isopropyl alcohol - agitate chain in jar, then ready to immerse wax or rip wax as you prefer
Sealant tip (which I'm sure Doddy featured ages ago) - seat your tyre first, ideally using a compressor (or large volume track pump) - then remove the valve core and squirt your sealant in though the valve stem (Stan's little 2oz 'trail pack' bottles are good for this, although you can use a hose/syringe too), then just refit the valve core and re-inflate the tyre - no mess. It's also worth spraying the bead of the tyre with some soapy water (or even tyre paste) to ensure the bead seats onto the rim more easily - you should hear it pop a few times as the bead slips into place all the way around.
I have a bunch of quick link (wink to reusable ones) I wipe the chain off then a plunge in hot wax and it's good to go for another couple hundred miles. It costs about 20$ for a decade if you don't waste it 😂
You can also remove it and use toluene or gasoline, or even plunge it in hot water 70/80°c if you want to get rid of wax based lubricants ... It will cost you a quick link but it's less work and more efficient at cleaning deep under the rollers...
I’ve been waxing my chains for my So Cal riding for years. I’ve tried many different brands and completely agree, if the lube is gathering muck and a mess to clean up, I don’t ever buy that type or brand again.
I know the black stuff because I clean my chain too rarely. The last time I oiled the chain before cleaning (too much oil) with an oil that I no longer need (Reverb oil from a bleeding kit). This dissolved the black stuff, then it was very easy to clean. Then I lubricated the chain again.
Good tip for washing the tyres. People often recommnd soapy water for helping to seat a tyre. Could the soap affect the sealant? I try to avoid sealant with ammonia in it.
The absolute authority on best practices for bicycle chain maintenance is Zero Friction Cycling... which is why muc-off is no longer supported on this channel
This one isn't a paid promotion, Peaty's is one of our partner brands which is why it was used in this video! They do make great products though 👌 If it is a Paid promotion we make it very clear 🫡
The best tip is to take off the chain off to clean it. The second-best tip is to cover the break disk, not to get all that grease on it like you did in the video
Video comment: it sounds like the audio is very compressed (ask a sound tech), which makes it unpleasant to listen to. Your voice doesn't usually sound like this. Different sound guy do the video sound editing? Might see if it can be adjusted back to a normal range.
Peaty's is their channel sponsor - the information given is the same regardless of which brand you buy - Stan's, Muc-Off, Pedro's etc. etc. all offer a similar choice of oil/solvent and/or water-based products.
Hi Paul! This video was not a paid promotion. All the information in this video can be applied to any bike product brand you want to use. We work closely with Peaty's Products on the channel, so they're our go-to products of choice. We hope you can take the information in this video and apply it to products you use at home. :)
I run tubes much easier to deal with sealant and i can use kevlar liners and patch flats. Takes longer. I Literally have had so many punctures that you could barley see the tire tread for all the goat heads sticking into my tires. Colorado is known for these thorns called goat heads that renders a bike tube airless in a matter of two seconds. Better have taken measures or you wont have a good day riding. Liners are the only thing to combat that problem. Thanks my lady and do keepemcoming won't you
Sealant seems like such a faff, and I ride way more loam than rock, so I still just run tubes. For my low key XC riding I manage to go multiple years between punctures...
NEVER EVER SQUIRT DEGREASER ON YOUR HUBS! Sorry but this really annoys me. If you are unfortunate enough to use the wrong oil based sticky lube, the way to clean it is to remove the chain and cassette from the bike and never ever squirt any type of degreaser on your bike, ever. Please. Come on Anna.
What pro-level hacks have you learnt over the years? It doesn't have to be about lubing or tubeless! 👇
Yellow lens riding glasses.
Hairdryer/heat gun after taping to really get all the air bubbles pushed out and get that tight to the rim bed factory look. Blow torch the end of a pick or hex wrench to poke the valve hole, melts and seals the edges of the tape so there's no microtears that could potentially grow bigger and leak. On single wall rims (often seen on fatbikes e.g. Mulefut rims) use a concave conical washer from old V-brakes below the presta nut, this allows the valve to fully pull through the rim and not bottom out prematurely on the nut. Or you could get a Problem Solvers Super P-nut, does basically the same thing.
@@tomvonderharr865 Now that‘s useful! I often wondered why my tubeless tape always has some air bubbles left.
Another tip when it comes to chains: if you ride in cold weather on roads with road salt, make sure to rinse it off basically immediately after the ride.
It's unbelievable how quick that road salt makes things rust/oxidize - don't underestimate that!
I've had a chain turn rust brown within just two days after getting that road salt on there!
Awesome hacks thank you!
Would love to see more of these.
And then there's me, who simply applies layers of dry and wet lube on top of each other without cleaning anything, and removes the black, sticky layer of dirt and oil once a year with a screwdriver.
That was me until I snapped my first chain, having never realized how stretched (actually: worn) it was. Now I'm pretty good about keeping on top of the 'grinding paste'...
Haha! We've all been there before. 😅
Yep, that was me before I discovered that you can just easily wipe off old dry wax if you're in time.
The old wax contains most of the dirt, so that comes off along with it and chain deep cleaning is rarely necessary because of that.
Oh, cool. GMBN owed these guys a video for their support. I didn't know this specific brand even existed. Good job, social media influencer GMBN!
What about Steve Peat? Do you know who that is?
@@komoonkh I'm aware of Steve but he was before my time in mtb so I haven't done much of watching his riding.
Is he associated with this brand? If so, that's awesome!
Hi! This video was not a paid promotion. All the information in this video can be applied to any bike product brand you want to use. We work closely with Peaty's Products on the channel, so they're our go-to products of choice. :)
Yes, Steve Peat is the Co-Founder and Director at Peaty's Products. 👍
Degreasing your cassette and chain like that could also start to affect your bearings if the degreaser works it's way past the bearing seals.
Great advise! Be very careful when spraying a stronger degreasers 🤙
Cleaning off old oil and grease, then the dirt and muck that it attracts can all be completely eliminated by simply using hot wax, then after a couple hundred miles, top it off with a wax base drip emulsion. It's really not that much trouble to do, and your (expensive) drive train will last much longer.
Very well put together.
If you want to get the wax out from a chain to re-apply it as clean as possible just use hot water from a kettle, it will melt the wax and take it out.
Thanks for watching, Chris! That's a cool hack. We've got to try it! 👊
@@gmbntech Just what I heard on GCN. Sometimes, the roadies have clever tips.
More like a Peaty's advert than " Pro Hacks " :)
This, exactly.
So what🤷♂️
It's a sponsored video but the suggestions apply to any product, what's your point
Yes, that's why they won't tell you hot melt wax will be cheaper and will make everything last longer, I love Anna and the team but yeah. 20$ a bottle won't buy you a miracle.
Wax will, and it's cheaper
Better than Muc-off
A more thorough clean without branded materials 1) Acetone - agitate chain in jar for 5 - 10 mins; 2) Isopropyl alcohol - agitate chain in jar, then ready to immerse wax or rip wax as you prefer
Sealant tip (which I'm sure Doddy featured ages ago) - seat your tyre first, ideally using a compressor (or large volume track pump) - then remove the valve core and squirt your sealant in though the valve stem (Stan's little 2oz 'trail pack' bottles are good for this, although you can use a hose/syringe too), then just refit the valve core and re-inflate the tyre - no mess.
It's also worth spraying the bead of the tyre with some soapy water (or even tyre paste) to ensure the bead seats onto the rim more easily - you should hear it pop a few times as the bead slips into place all the way around.
Not recommended when using inserts. Otherwise a great technique for sure
I have a bunch of quick link (wink to reusable ones) I wipe the chain off then a plunge in hot wax and it's good to go for another couple hundred miles.
It costs about 20$ for a decade if you don't waste it 😂
Cleaning Chain's box is the effectivnest way to clean your chain from far (only if you use it regularly!)
You can also remove it and use toluene or gasoline, or even plunge it in hot water 70/80°c if you want to get rid of wax based lubricants ... It will cost you a quick link but it's less work and more efficient at cleaning deep under the rollers...
I’ve been waxing my chains for my So Cal riding for years. I’ve tried many different brands and completely agree, if the lube is gathering muck and a mess to clean up, I don’t ever buy that type or brand again.
I know the black stuff because I clean my chain too rarely. The last time I oiled the chain before cleaning (too much oil) with an oil that I no longer need (Reverb oil from a bleeding kit).
This dissolved the black stuff, then it was very easy to clean. Then I lubricated the chain again.
Just go with immersive hot wax. Far better than any lube for any condition. Once your set up and understand the simple process it’s super easy.
Great content. Love these.
Thanks for the support, Neil! 👍
Good tip for washing the tyres. People often recommnd soapy water for helping to seat a tyre. Could the soap affect the sealant? I try to avoid sealant with ammonia in it.
why would I ever buy a dry lube made in Britain? how the hell would they know what dry conditions are ?😂
Maybe they do a comparative tasting with dry cider? 😂
Do you use wax lube for mountain biking? is it better to use wax or oil lube for mountain biking?
It depends on what weather you're riding in! Wax/water for dry riding, oil for wet 🤙
One of your better episodes.
I like TriFlow , goes on wet , dries fast and leaves a Teflon base lubricant , a bit pricey though
And that smell
I have seen a few mechanics use this product
I hit my dry-lube with a heat gun (Set to 200 C) until it is completely dry. Works perfectly
So should you remove factory lubing on shimano chains or not ?
no, ride once then apply Squirt Chain lube and away you go
@@GrahamFootBicycleLover too bad I only have muc off lube. I’ve been following the channel when they still promoted muc off products ;)
It's all very biased to whoever sponsors the channel.
The absolute authority on best practices for bicycle chain maintenance is Zero Friction Cycling... which is why muc-off is no longer supported on this channel
Great tips, but some transparency when this is obviously a paid Peaty's products ad would be a good idea. Put it in the intro or the description text.
This one isn't a paid promotion, Peaty's is one of our partner brands which is why it was used in this video! They do make great products though 👌 If it is a Paid promotion we make it very clear 🫡
A little grease around the tubeless valve grommet when installing
I like tip to ride the bike through the cassette with degreaser on it
The best tip is to take off the chain off to clean it. The second-best tip is to cover the break disk, not to get all that grease on it like you did in the video
Video comment: it sounds like the audio is very compressed (ask a sound tech), which makes it unpleasant to listen to. Your voice doesn't usually sound like this. Different sound guy do the video sound editing? Might see if it can be adjusted back to a normal range.
Nothing new here. Dry lubes are crap in the UK, so to is Peatys sealant, it couldn't seal a pin prick.
CO2 is very volatile. I wouldnt use them if the weather temp is high.
Would rather see real hacks rather than an advert for peatys.
Peaty's is their channel sponsor - the information given is the same regardless of which brand you buy - Stan's, Muc-Off, Pedro's etc. etc. all offer a similar choice of oil/solvent and/or water-based products.
Come on, none of the products was even called by its name. If you want different brands shown you should prepare to pay for internet content.
Hi Paul! This video was not a paid promotion. All the information in this video can be applied to any bike product brand you want to use. We work closely with Peaty's Products on the channel, so they're our go-to products of choice. We hope you can take the information in this video and apply it to products you use at home. :)
I run tubes much easier to deal with sealant and i can use kevlar liners and patch flats. Takes longer. I Literally have had so many punctures that you could barley see the tire tread for all the goat heads sticking into my tires.
Colorado is known for these thorns called goat heads that renders a bike tube airless in a matter of two seconds. Better have taken measures or you wont have a good day riding.
Liners are the only thing to combat that problem.
Thanks my lady and do keepemcoming won't you
Pro tip: if you have problem with your bike just buy a new one
Exactly 💯
Easy fix we guess! 🤷😂
Sealant seems like such a faff, and I ride way more loam than rock, so I still just run tubes. For my low key XC riding I manage to go multiple years between punctures...
You're missing out on tubeless, but you do you
Pro tip. Spend less time caring about how clean your chain is. And spend as much time as you can getting it dirty to begin with… ride your bike.
We couldn't agree more with the second half of that sentence, but why can't you do both? A clean chain = money saved!
Light ⚙️ box 🛢 litre for &10
I could listen to her read the phonebook and be fascinated 😍
life hack: use motor oil its wel cheapa nd just need a wipe down each ride/. End of season gets a full degrease anayways.
Oh great, more overpriced cycling products. Nice ad, btw.
Don’t use dry lube, unless you like to spend money on chains.
NEVER EVER SQUIRT DEGREASER ON YOUR HUBS! Sorry but this really annoys me. If you are unfortunate enough to use the wrong oil based sticky lube, the way to clean it is to remove the chain and cassette from the bike and never ever squirt any type of degreaser on your bike, ever. Please. Come on Anna.
But then I don’t get to take my bike to the shop to get it serviced every 6 weeks?!