Another fantastic video. Meets all your hallmarks. 1. Brilliant simple idea. 2. Only 10 minutes long. 3. Can be accomplished by the average person. 4. Does not require a shop full of equipment. Thanks again for another excellent video.
This is cool! I just got my first lathe, came with a tool post like you've got and a quick change tool post and I've been looking into buying tooling. That's a SUPER cheap way to have a part off tool, thanks for the video.
I have several different size cut off blades from my Dad and was wandering how I was going to use them. Well thanks to you Rob I'm going to make a couple of these tomorrow. This is one of those things you say to yourself, why didn't I think of that.
Great idea with the filler bung and dip stick but on the end of the dip stick I would mount a small magnet to pick up any ferrous particles in the oil.
Like most great inventions this one is easy to understand, and easier to build. I made one today using cold roll and cut first pass with a 1/16" cut off wheel....but the kerf ended up too thin. Next I hogged out the cut with 2 hack saw blades mounted on one frame which worked great like you said it would. Thanks for the idea and a little less stress when parting! :) G.
Great video Rob. I have the tapered blades and while they work, I'm not happy with them. Tempted to give the T top style a go now seeing this holder. Thanks for sharing!
Rob, thanks for the parting tool idea. I made one today. The bar stock came from my metal stash but I had to buy the 3/32 saw cutter and the blade which cost me $40 Canadian dollars. It works great with no chatter. I will however install a couple of screws to keep the tapered blade vertical in the slot.
Hi Gord, Interesting to hear. I don't have a slotting saw either :) Maybe one day. After the video I finally made another holder for my small parallel sided blades. I just cut a slot with my metal bandsaw (I put the work on a 45 degree angle in a second vice in the existing saw vice). Then I opened it out with my die grinder friction disc, and finished off with two hacksaw blades side by side to size and level it correctly. I'm sure there are lots of ways to make one. Side screws sound interesting. But yes, they work great, mainly because you have zero tool holder overhang, which caused me no end of grief with those small blades - snapped at the blink of an eye. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers Rob
I am definitely going to make one of then, might even put a couple of set screws in from the side to take up any slop.thanks for that , I have a few small blades I will now use that won't fit into my larger parting tool holder.
Well done, Rob. Now I simply have to adapt the idea to the Aloris-style holder I've got. Shouldn't be difficult. I just happened to be doing some plunging with a parting blade tonight, trying to finish a pulley. So this was very timely. Thanks!
Although I have never got around to trying it I have wondered what could be done by turning old machine hacksaw blades into part off tools. Obviously it would involve grinding to the right shape. Maybe even hand hacksaw blades might work on very light work. Changing the subject I made a rear part off tool holder for my Chinese lathe and it totally transformed the parting off performance. I have to reverse the spindle because I didn't mount the part off upside down.
Try old circular saw blades, the ones out of 18v battery saws might be perfect thickness. Don't know how they would go getting re-hardened after chopping up by grinder but cheap enough to try...
Too clever by half Rob. Well Done. I liked the casting using a socket method. BTW that is an old motor given the switch is a black Bakelite model, my guess is 40's or 50's at the latest.
@@Xynudu You did as the saying goes, usually the simplest solutions are also the best! I can’t thank you enough for sharing your knowledge with us! Thank you very much good sir! Cheers
G'day Rob, really enjoyed watching this one, I used to live in SA and I had a Laverda RGS 1000 love your two bikes always have had a soft spot for Italian bikes, anyway I was wondering what type of cutting oil you use? I am making the same mods on my SC6 siege lathe as you have done on yours thanks again John Tassie
Hi John, I just use 1 part engine oil to four parts kerosene. It smokes a bit but is cheap, like me. Gotta love those Italian bikes. I wonder where your old RGS is now ? Cheers Rob
Re: " should be on the back". I should add you have to tap the holder for a small set screw to bear against the blade as it contacts the quick change holder, once this is done I did three two in the front one in rear, I made a clamp that draws the whole lot against the holder. Ridge I can part anything with complete confidence.
Hi Peter, some current health issues have curtailed my M/C activities for now. The F1 is ready to roll, but the 860 bevel has a gear change issue I have to investigate. Cheers Rob
If you want cheap blades cut them out of a circular saw blade, I had a kick back stuffed the blade so I cut some carbide blades out of it they work great cheers.
Is there any invention of thinnest parting tool to cut Pcs. out of Mild Steel Iron Bar so that wastage (in terms of iron chips) is minimum equivalent to that of Metal Cutting Bandsaw
Good question Mike. I thought I bought them from Banggood, but they don't have HSS parting off blades, so maybe it was Ebay. I bought two at the time and they are marked HSS 2 X 12 X 200. Search on that and heaps come up. That's the best size to get. Quite cheap to buy. Cheers Rob
OH WOW !!!!! Nice... I think, I would rather say clever !!! Like you stated, how simply can it be, and to think, I always seem to make my stuff so dang complicated on myself. I may have to ditch my parting / cut-off blade holder for this.
No. I bought it at a garage sale years ago for $5. It originally drove via a flexible cable off of an electric drill, but I changed it to direct drive with a junked AC motor. Super useful for facing stuff like this, breaking edges etc. Cheers Rob
It looks like the slit is not cut at an angle, so the blade sits parallel to the bottom of the holder. And the end of the blade slopes down some. Which gives negative rake. Isn't that a bad idea? Wouldn't it be better for the slit to slope up, giving positive rake? Also, grinding the blade top makes the very tip thinner than the rest, because the blade has a vertical taper. Or does it?
The blade is parallel to the bottom, same as modern commercially made holders. The end of the blade top has to be ground with a relief. The old timer parting blades were held at an angle to avoid grinding the relief. The blades I use don't have a vertical taper. Either way, it makes no difference to grinding a relief. Cheers Rob
Rob, thanks for the quick reply. I carefully re-watched and can see how yours and the commercial holder have the blade parallel to the bottom. Which gives a neutral rake and that confuses me since I've always heard that it should have positive rake. My Alorix-style holder slopes the blade up to give positive rake. Now I regret paying good money for the Aloris-style when I could have made one like yours for "nothing". Thanks, Bob
Hi Bob, It's confusing as none of the old manuals make mention of adding a relief, as the blades were always canted in the old days. So newbies will always break a few blades before the penny drops and they realise a relief is necessary with modern holders. Been there, done that. Cheers Rob
Having said that, blades in the old style holders will be more resiliant, as by canting the blade, you effectively increase the vertical thickness of the blade due to the offset. So older is almost certainly better in this case. Cheers Rob
It's a digital LCD tire tread depth gauge. There are lots of these on Ebay and some now come with a metal probe rather than plastic. Dirt cheap. Cheers Rob
could you please tell me, what is wrong if your endmill ( most new one's too ) rub against the part insted of cutting it!!? what is wrong? It gets really hard to turn and if give it more Presure it just rubs against the partinsted of cutting it!!? Thank you for any idea's
If by endmill you mean parting off blade, the following (in order of probability) may cause this: 1) the blade cutting edge is above centre 2) the blade has not enough back relief on the front edge 3) the blade has no top relief Cheers Rob
Hi Pete, That originally had a carbide tip on it. That wore out and as the base is HSS I've been using that. The T shape works well at clearing the cuttings. I don't know if you can buy them without the tip. Cheers Rob
G'day mate. You get the full 5 kangaroos for this one. One thing I have tried is to grind the parting blade at an angle so that the left burr section is on the piece left in the lathe. The pointy sharp side is toward the piece being parted. Keep on keeping on.
Hi Harold. Good idea regarding the angled cutter face. I used to do that, as it clears the cuttings better, but fell out of the habit - it would have helped with this job. Cheers Rob
Another fantastic video. Meets all your hallmarks.
1. Brilliant simple idea.
2. Only 10 minutes long.
3. Can be accomplished by the average person.
4. Does not require a shop full of equipment.
Thanks again for another excellent video.
I keep finding out again and again why I like your channel so much! Thanks for the tips, they are outstanding.
This is cool! I just got my first lathe, came with a tool post like you've got and a quick change tool post and I've been looking into buying tooling. That's a SUPER cheap way to have a part off tool, thanks for the video.
Very impressive and time saving idea on parting tool making. Thanks for your time and effort.
Thanks Bud. Made one of these today. Just starting out and had the parting tool but no holder. This worked a treat.
Hi Dean, it sure does, mainly because you reduce the overhang and flex a lot. Cheers Rob
I have several different size cut off blades from my Dad and was wandering how I was going to use them. Well thanks to you Rob I'm going to make a couple of these tomorrow. This is one of those things you say to yourself, why didn't I think of that.
Pure genius with the cutter! Well done mate
Great idea with the filler bung and dip stick but on the end of the dip stick I would mount a small magnet to pick up any ferrous particles in the oil.
nice video Rob,thanks for sharing.see you on the next one.
Thanks for the video. I like that parting off tool holder. Nice and simple, easy to make and inexpensive.
Have a day
The simplest ideas are the best they reckon Rob and that is a really good idea...Thanks for posting ...E
Like most great inventions this one is easy to understand, and easier to build. I made one today using cold roll and cut first pass with a 1/16" cut off wheel....but the kerf ended up too thin. Next I hogged out the cut with 2 hack saw blades mounted on one frame which worked great like you said it would. Thanks for the idea and a little less stress when parting! :)
G.
Great video Rob.
I have the tapered blades and while they work, I'm not happy with them. Tempted to give the T top style a go now seeing this holder. Thanks for sharing!
Rob, thanks for the parting tool idea. I made one today. The bar stock came from my metal stash but I had to buy the 3/32 saw cutter and the blade which cost me $40 Canadian dollars. It works great with no chatter. I will however install a couple of screws to keep the tapered blade vertical in the slot.
Hi Gord,
Interesting to hear. I don't have a slotting saw either :) Maybe one day.
After the video I finally made another holder for my small parallel sided blades. I just cut a slot with my metal bandsaw (I put the work on a 45 degree angle in a second vice in the existing saw vice).
Then I opened it out with my die grinder friction disc, and finished off with two hacksaw blades side by side to size and level it correctly.
I'm sure there are lots of ways to make one. Side screws sound interesting.
But yes, they work great, mainly because you have zero tool holder overhang, which caused me no end of grief with those small blades - snapped at the blink of an eye.
Thanks for the feedback.
Cheers Rob
I am definitely going to make one of then, might even put a couple of set screws in from the side to take up any slop.thanks for that , I have a few small blades I will now use that won't fit into my larger parting tool holder.
Nice work. Great idea for parting off. Thank you for sharing.
You're welcome Donald. It makes parting off easy as there's minimal overhang. Much better for small lathes. Cheers Rob
Well done, Rob. Now I simply have to adapt the idea to the Aloris-style holder I've got. Shouldn't be difficult. I just happened to be doing some plunging with a parting blade tonight, trying to finish a pulley. So this was very timely. Thanks!
innovative and brilliant. Just what we expect from Rob !
Simply brilliant 👏👏👍😀
I do like the parting off blade holder. Very nice idea.
Although I have never got around to trying it I have wondered what could be done by turning old machine hacksaw blades into part off tools. Obviously it would involve grinding to the right shape. Maybe even hand hacksaw blades might work on very light work. Changing the subject I made a rear part off tool holder for my Chinese lathe and it totally transformed the parting off performance. I have to reverse the spindle because I didn't mount the part off upside down.
Hi Les, I have done that. It depends how thick they are. The regular thin ones flex side to side too much. Cheers Rob
Try old circular saw blades, the ones out of 18v battery saws might be perfect thickness. Don't know how they would go getting re-hardened after chopping up by grinder but cheap enough to try...
Good idea I had the same problem with the store bought cut off tool, will try one of yours out.
Nice job Rob. regards from the UK
Too clever by half Rob. Well Done. I liked the casting using a socket method.
BTW that is an old motor given the switch is a black Bakelite model, my guess is 40's or 50's at the latest.
Hi Mark,
Yes, it's pretty old, but if it did the job in the 1950's, then it should do the job now :)
Cheers Rob
Hi, I had a thought of using ground down bits of machine hacksaw blade in your slotted parting blade holder
Sure. That would make a great parting blade provided it fits in the toolpost.
Rob
This is ingenious !!! Thank you sir !!!
You are very welcome Roberto. It works well as it has less overhang than the commercial ones. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu You did as the saying goes, usually the simplest solutions are also the best! I can’t thank you enough for sharing your knowledge with us! Thank you very much good sir! Cheers
Thanks for the idea. I've got several parting blades that were given to me that don't fit my holder. Hope you don't mind if I "borrow" your idea.
God Rob you must just hate your thumbs! Lol if I were to do that I'd have sanded a bloody great flat on both of my thumbs!
Absolutely ingenious.
If you put heat to aneal those washers you can reuse them indefinitely I think.
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing this great idea.
Rob, like your mobile DRO, looked like a tyre depth gauge . Like to make one like that, grateful if you could share some ideas. Thanks
Hi David,
I have full details on a web page: users.tpg.com.au/agnet/microdro2.html
Cheers Rob
Thanks Rob, another project to keep me busy
nice tip Rob.thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ray. I got so sick of parting off dramas and breaking blades, I knew there had to be a better way. This works real good.
Cheers Rob.
G'day Rob, really enjoyed watching this one, I used to live in SA and I had a Laverda RGS 1000 love your two bikes always have had a soft spot for Italian bikes, anyway I was wondering what type of cutting oil you use? I am making the same mods on my SC6 siege lathe as you have done on yours thanks again John Tassie
Hi John,
I just use 1 part engine oil to four parts kerosene. It smokes a bit but is cheap, like me.
Gotta love those Italian bikes. I wonder where your old RGS is now ?
Cheers Rob
Re: " should be on the back". I should add you have to tap the holder for a small set screw to bear against the blade as it contacts the quick change holder, once this is done I did three two in the front one in rear, I made a clamp that draws the whole lot against the holder.
Ridge I can part anything with complete confidence.
I'm done with 'cheap'. It always ends up costing more.
But I do like the swarf shield...
Great video thanks for sharing..
Can you make a video of the digital indicator I would like to do the same
Thanks from Spain
Hi Javi,
I did a web page on the indicator:
users.tpg.com.au/agnet/microdro2.html
Good little project and super handy and accurate.
Cheers Rob
Any chance we could see the Ducati sometime?
Hi Peter, some current health issues have curtailed my M/C activities for now. The F1 is ready to roll, but the 860 bevel has a gear change issue I have to investigate. Cheers Rob
If you want cheap blades cut them out of a circular saw blade, I had a kick back stuffed the blade so I cut some carbide blades out of it they work great cheers.
Worth a try. Thanks for the tip.
Is there any invention of thinnest parting tool to cut Pcs. out of Mild Steel Iron Bar so that wastage (in terms of iron chips) is minimum equivalent to that of Metal Cutting
Bandsaw
You wouldn't want to do too many at a time as the skin on the end of your thumbs is going to end up real thin. Great posting.
He He.
8 was enough.
Cheers Rob
Great idea Rob . Where do you buy the blade from ?
Good question Mike. I thought I bought them from Banggood, but they don't have HSS parting off blades, so maybe it was Ebay. I bought two at the time and they are marked HSS 2 X 12 X 200. Search on that and heaps come up. That's the best size to get. Quite cheap to buy. Cheers Rob
Excellent I’ll check them out thanks 👍
Hi Mate, good idea there. Any details for your digital saddle-travel gizmo? ( 6:50 ) I could do with making one for my bantam.
I have full details on a web page: users.tpg.com.au/agnet/microdro2.html
Cheers Rob
Thanks Rob, Nick
xynudu
Nice work saving money too can't beat that.
Rob,
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks,
John
Good idea,thanks. How did you the slot ?
I used two hacksaw blades side by side in the same frame.
@@Xynudu Thanks for your answer.
That is a grate idea i think i need to try it
OH WOW !!!!! Nice... I think, I would rather say clever !!! Like you stated, how simply can it be, and to think, I always seem to make my stuff so dang complicated on myself. I may have to ditch my parting / cut-off blade holder for this.
The best thing about this holder is that there is very little overhang. So much less chance of blade breakage.
Works great. Super simple.
Cheers Rob
With your backyard aluminum casting... Can you re-melt the chips from the lathe? Or do the chips burn / slag up the mix?
I don't re-melt the chips as they have a huge surface oxide area and just seem to slag up the mix.
Cheers Rob
I dip my Al in muratic acid and then waste oil before foundry. The oil goes to CO and CO2 when heated/burned. Cuts down on my dross.
have got any plans for that linisher
No. I bought it at a garage sale years ago for $5.
It originally drove via a flexible cable off of an electric drill, but I changed it to direct drive with a junked AC motor.
Super useful for facing stuff like this, breaking edges etc.
Cheers Rob
It looks like the slit is not cut at an angle, so the blade sits parallel to the bottom of the holder. And the end of the blade slopes down some. Which gives negative rake. Isn't that a bad idea? Wouldn't it be better for the slit to slope up, giving positive rake?
Also, grinding the blade top makes the very tip thinner than the rest, because the blade has a vertical taper. Or does it?
The blade is parallel to the bottom, same as modern commercially made holders. The end of the blade top has to be ground with a relief.
The old timer parting blades were held at an angle to avoid grinding the relief.
The blades I use don't have a vertical taper. Either way, it makes no difference to grinding a relief.
Cheers Rob
Rob, thanks for the quick reply.
I carefully re-watched and can see how yours and the commercial holder have the blade parallel to the bottom. Which gives a neutral rake and that confuses me since I've always heard that it should have positive rake. My Alorix-style holder slopes the blade up to give positive rake.
Now I regret paying good money for the Aloris-style when I could have made one like yours for "nothing".
Thanks,
Bob
Hi Bob,
It's confusing as none of the old manuals make mention of adding a relief, as the blades were always canted in the old days.
So newbies will always break a few blades before the penny drops and they realise a relief is necessary with modern holders.
Been there, done that.
Cheers Rob
Having said that, blades in the old style holders will be more resiliant, as by canting the blade, you effectively increase the vertical thickness of the blade due to the offset.
So older is almost certainly better in this case.
Cheers Rob
Simply brilliant.
Very Nice. Really to easy.
Love the idea Rog. :)
Rob what's that measuring tool called (so I can buy one) that you put the magnets on ?
It's a digital LCD tire tread depth gauge. There are lots of these on Ebay and some now come with a metal probe rather than plastic. Dirt cheap.
Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu I have one of those Rob, yours looked like it was spring loaded though? Am I correct there?
I made it spring loaded. Here's how I did it : users.tpg.com.au/agnet/microdro2.html
could you please tell me, what is wrong if your endmill ( most new one's too ) rub against the part insted of cutting it!!? what is wrong? It gets really hard to turn and if give it more Presure it just rubs against the partinsted of cutting it!!? Thank you for any idea's
If by endmill you mean parting off blade, the following (in order of probability) may cause this:
1) the blade cutting edge is above centre
2) the blade has not enough back relief on the front edge
3) the blade has no top relief
Cheers Rob
G'day, where did you find that parting blade, ive been looking for one them? The T shape. Liked the holder.
Hi Pete,
That originally had a carbide tip on it. That wore out and as the base is HSS I've been using that.
The T shape works well at clearing the cuttings.
I don't know if you can buy them without the tip.
Cheers Rob
Thank you
nice job rob
The plug is sweet.
If we have to cut the iron bar on a Traub MAchine
Is your compound rest mount and protractor stock?
Yes.
You just hit upon an idea about the locking mechanism " should be on the back..." how about turning it around.
The lock also clamps the blade to stop side wander, so that won't work. Good thinking though.
Cheers Rob
Perfect thank you for the vidio. Alan
KISS Nice tool, love it.
Bloody Brilliant 😁
Brilliant!
Good one. thanks
Nice tip cobber.
This is holder what i looking for.Thanks
Nice and simple. :)
Nice!
G'day mate. You get the full 5 kangaroos for this one. One thing I have tried is to grind the parting blade at an angle so that the left burr section is on the piece left in the lathe. The pointy sharp side is toward the piece being parted. Keep on keeping on.
Hi Harold.
Good idea regarding the angled cutter face.
I used to do that, as it clears the cuttings better, but fell out of the habit - it would have helped with this job.
Cheers Rob
thanks nice work i will copey
Stick a loose wooden dowel in the hole of your part before parting off and the washer won't fall down.
EdBailen that sounds extremely painful.
Great idea, you can use the blade till almost nothing left. Just thinking cheap. Just sayin. 🙊🖕
Well done sir, I like simple.
Brilliant!