Thanks for this video. My challenge was getting the initial cable tension set right to avoid rub at the extremes of gear selections. Got it all sorted out with your help....great content!
@@urieelSEptim I just followed the gent's directions to the letter...also got one of those Shimano gauge tools to set the tension pin on the derailleur properly.
@@urieelSEptim yeah I had to start over as well....the first step appears to be the most critical where he lines up the outer derailleur plate with the large chain ring.
Every time I need to do anything biking related I start look through TH-cam videos until I hear "alroight goise welcome back to the channel" and I know I'm in the right spot ❤
I built myself a winter hack. First time I’d built a bike and everything went swimmingly. Apart from doing the front mech. Anyway, just followed your video. All good now. Thanks v much 👍🏻👍🏻
After years of di2 i had to scale back. Tiagra on my trainer bike and this was very handy (even over shimano service manual) to get my head back around long arm FDs. Toggle Cam is a great idea but not sure i'm ready to faff around with that again just yet. This stuff is cheaper and wears like iron. -U10
excellent tutorial as always, clear and well paced. thanks! one tricky step is when the Shimano tool is used to determine the position of the "converter". This must be done with the chain guide parallel to the largest chain ring - since the return spring tends to move the chain guide on the smallest chain ring, one has to devise a way to force and hold the chain guide extended onto the largest ring. I used a small wooden wedge for that. Now a question: if the frame is aluminium, do I still need the little metal tab to protect it from the locating screw? thanks
Very helpful video.I wondered what the little metal plate and the tool were for. No guidance from Shimano......Isuppose their excuse would be “ you’re not qualified” but they’re quite happy to make this equipment available to everybody. They should provide written instructions. Couldn’t find anything worth knowing on their website either.
Thank you! Very comprehensive! The tool tl fd68 is to indicate near true vertical direction? Where I am, they do not sell this tool. There must be a way to do it without the tool? I see bikes with the front derailleur perfectly installed, then I have the problem one! It is very frustrating to hear the chain rubbing against the derailleur when I use the smallest cog and largest chain ring. It touches the front outside part of the derailleur even after the H screw was turned to its limit. I tried to increase the tension of the line but the clearance is still not enough.
First thing. This is easily the best video I've seen on the topic for a beginner. The park tool etc stuff assumes a certain bit of knowledge, despite how good they are. I've followed this though and still have an issue and it's annoying me no end. Can shift big to small and small to big, however that "trim" shift is basically empty. First time I try to go from small to big it's as if there is no tension, no matter what I try, what bodge I do, what I set the limit screws at. Any advice on that?
Depends what position on the rear cassette the chain is! If your on the largest chainring and the 11 tooth sprocket on the rear cassette then it will be very close if not touching the front derailleur cage!!
About to wrap up my build. Front shifter/ derailleur and chain is all that is left. My Tiagra 4700 front shifter has multiple clicks. I read on some forums about trim clicks but none really explained what is going on. So I am wondering how many clicks my new 2x10 (Tiagra 4700) front shifter should have?? Thanks for the videos!!
hi Tim! I have the same experience with my Tiagra 4700 front shifter. It works fine, but it clicks two times both ways. Have you found out the reason for that?
@@gaborkocsis6641 I believe it is considered a trim click. I do think it is by design that it does that. I have my system set up nicely in the shifting is very smooth front and back so I am very very happy with the Tiagra 4700.
@@flyinlo1474 sometimes, my front shifter will stuck in low gear and to put it in high i need to press really good. have you experienced it with your 4700 front shifter?
@@VladGoro25 That means you need to adjust the shifter. It is not indexed (setup) correctly. You are the maximum range and it is not enough to shift. Once you get it adjusted properly it will be very easy to shift up and down.
i get front rub on the big ring on with the two smallest sprockets, and when i'm in the small up front i can't go into the second smallest without rubbing but i think that's ok...but the big ring shouldn't be rubbing on the two smallest right? should I adjust H screw for that? also, the trimming function with the small ring doesn't seem to work for pushing towards the smallererings the trimming only works for going to larger sprocets, the mech barely moves with that specific trim...i'm really confused. i had already checked the cable housing and the cable isn't broken or stuck. i already had it to two bike shops and they can't figure it out. my old sora 3500 front mech worked better than this 4700 and it's kind of sad.
Hi mate, can you please explain why I can't change up into the big chain ring? It won't even budge, won't move at all. Ive followed all the instructions and im at my wits end.
I have this derailleur on my Canyon Endurace. It's a brand new bike with only 400 miles on it. I had a bit of chain rub so I adjusted the limiting screws, and adjusted the cage a bit. The chain rub issue is fixed but now I can't shift to the larger front sprocket because no matter what I do, the cage won't move to the right to shift the chain to the larger front sprocket. How do I fix this?
The Support Plate doesn't seem to stick. Anyone successfully stick it? Also I have tried screwing the Low Limit screen all the way in but it the derailleur never reach the bigger chain ring. Any advise?
Thanks for this video. My challenge was getting the initial cable tension set right to avoid rub at the extremes of gear selections. Got it all sorted out with your help....great content!
got the same problem, how did you solve it?
@@urieelSEptim I just followed the gent's directions to the letter...also got one of those Shimano gauge tools to set the tension pin on the derailleur properly.
@@XBKLYN guess ill have to start over completely. thanks
@@XBKLYN guess ill have to start over completely. thanks
@@urieelSEptim yeah I had to start over as well....the first step appears to be the most critical where he lines up the outer derailleur plate with the large chain ring.
Awesome guide! Followed step by step and got my front 4700 finally operating like a charm! Thx from Moscow.
Thanks
Every time I need to do anything biking related I start look through TH-cam videos until I hear "alroight goise welcome back to the channel" and I know I'm in the right spot ❤
Nice video. Didn't know anything about the alternative cable routing till I watched this. Many thanks have bought that little cable card.
Thx for this! Have use your videos alot, while learning to build Road bikes. Really apprechiated!
Brilliant. I've got a Tiagra front derailleur on order and I'd have never worked all that out myself. Thanks.
I built myself a winter hack. First time I’d built a bike and everything went swimmingly. Apart from doing the front mech. Anyway, just followed your video. All good now. Thanks v much 👍🏻👍🏻
Your video saved me a lot of trouble and headache. Thank you
this guide is very useful. every little detail covered. thank you
Thank you! You saved me money and time. Thank you!
After years of di2 i had to scale back. Tiagra on my trainer bike and this was very handy (even over shimano service manual) to get my head back around long arm FDs. Toggle Cam is a great idea but not sure i'm ready to faff around with that again just yet. This stuff is cheaper and wears like iron. -U10
Thanks. This helps. I’m installing a Tiagra front derailleur with a New Albion 42/26 sub compact crankset with DiaCompe downtube friction shifters.
Great help!!, thanks for the effort you put into your content , Extremely Helpful!
You’re a life saver!
Thank you very much, helped me figure out my cable installation issue!
excellent tutorial as always, clear and well paced. thanks!
one tricky step is when the Shimano tool is used to determine the position of the "converter". This must be done with the chain guide parallel to the largest chain ring - since the return spring tends to move the chain guide on the smallest chain ring, one has to devise a way to force and hold the chain guide extended onto the largest ring. I used a small wooden wedge for that.
Now a question: if the frame is aluminium, do I still need the little metal tab to protect it from the locating screw? thanks
just the explainations i needed ! thanks
Brilliant video. Thank you
Thanks a lot. It was very very helpful
thank you sir, your instruction is very well done
Thank you so much!.
Great instruction video !
One question. When you testing front derailleur in 15:54 - you use every shift on the lever or only check is it moving?
Muchas gracias por compartir. Saludos desde Argentina
Very helpful video.I wondered what the little metal plate and the tool were for. No guidance from Shimano......Isuppose their excuse would be “ you’re not qualified” but they’re quite happy to make this equipment available to everybody. They should provide written instructions. Couldn’t find anything worth knowing on their website either.
They have manuals on all their items. Just look at their website it should be named "Dealer's manual"
Thank you! Very comprehensive! The tool tl fd68 is to indicate near true vertical direction? Where I am, they do not sell this tool. There must be a way to do it without the tool? I see bikes with the front derailleur perfectly installed, then I have the problem one! It is very frustrating to hear the chain rubbing against the derailleur when I use the smallest cog and largest chain ring. It touches the front outside part of the derailleur even after the H screw was turned to its limit.
I tried to increase the tension of the line but the clearance is still not enough.
First thing. This is easily the best video I've seen on the topic for a beginner. The park tool etc stuff assumes a certain bit of knowledge, despite how good they are.
I've followed this though and still have an issue and it's annoying me no end. Can shift big to small and small to big, however that "trim" shift is basically empty. First time I try to go from small to big it's as if there is no tension, no matter what I try, what bodge I do, what I set the limit screws at. Any advice on that?
How did you fix this in the end?
Awesome, thank you
Very thorough and understandable, thanks.
Thanks!
when adjusting the high limit, do you put any tension on the cable? I noticed that in other videos they do an I find that very confusing.
Is the chain rub normal on 4700 tiagras? I made all the adjustments perfectly but the front chain is still rubbing in the fd a bit.
Depends what position on the rear cassette the chain is! If your on the largest chainring and the 11 tooth sprocket on the rear cassette then it will be very close if not touching the front derailleur cage!!
Im having the same problem re. rubbing
I have the same problem too. Seems like a common problem for Tiagra
thx its helpfull
About to wrap up my build. Front shifter/ derailleur and chain is all that is left. My Tiagra 4700 front shifter has multiple clicks. I read on some forums about trim clicks but none really explained what is going on. So I am wondering how many clicks my new 2x10 (Tiagra 4700) front shifter should have?? Thanks for the videos!!
hi Tim! I have the same experience with my Tiagra 4700 front shifter. It works fine, but it clicks two times both ways. Have you found out the reason for that?
@@gaborkocsis6641 I believe it is considered a trim click. I do think it is by design that it does that. I have my system set up nicely in the shifting is very smooth front and back so I am very very happy with the Tiagra 4700.
@@flyinlo1474 sometimes, my front shifter will stuck in low gear and to put it in high i need to press really good. have you experienced it with your 4700 front shifter?
@@VladGoro25 That means you need to adjust the shifter. It is not indexed (setup) correctly. You are the maximum range and it is not enough to shift. Once you get it adjusted properly it will be very easy to shift up and down.
@@flyinlo1474 it shifts okay, but after some bumpy road it stucks in low (not always)
i get front rub on the big ring on with the two smallest sprockets, and when i'm in the small up front i can't go into the second smallest without rubbing but i think that's ok...but the big ring shouldn't be rubbing on the two smallest right? should I adjust H screw for that? also, the trimming function with the small ring doesn't seem to work for pushing towards the smallererings the trimming only works for going to larger sprocets, the mech barely moves with that specific trim...i'm really confused. i had already checked the cable housing and the cable isn't broken or stuck.
i already had it to two bike shops and they can't figure it out. my old sora 3500 front mech worked better than this 4700 and it's kind of sad.
can it handle 56/44T chainring?
Hi mate, can you please explain why I can't change up into the big chain ring? It won't even budge, won't move at all. Ive followed all the instructions and im at my wits end.
If the cable is to tight on the inner ring then you won’t be able to move the lever!
@@FreeToCycle oh k, so I should have it just hand/finger tight to start, then go from there? Thanks mate. Its been niggling at me
I have this derailleur on my Canyon Endurace. It's a brand new bike with only 400 miles on it. I had a bit of chain rub so I adjusted the limiting screws, and adjusted the cage a bit. The chain rub issue is fixed but now I can't shift to the larger front sprocket because no matter what I do, the cage won't move to the right to shift the chain to the larger front sprocket. How do I fix this?
Looks just like my old 6800 derailleur tbh. Those rims are low prifile must be for climbing. I bet they're light.
I wanna change shimano altus in my mtb bike to shimano tiagra. I wanna make it a commuter bike. Is it even possible, will it work?
Oh BTW
I don’t remember any mention of a tool and setting the pin in the instructions I got with the Groupset
The Support Plate doesn't seem to stick. Anyone successfully stick it? Also I have tried screwing the Low Limit screen all the way in but it the derailleur never reach the bigger chain ring. Any advise?
Will installing full shimano tiagra to my cross bike make my bike faster? Ive already changed tyres and fork
Hello, is the 10-row drive easier to adjust than the 11-row drive. Regards