Before importing an engine from Japan I saw rumors that the citizens there sometimes don't maintain the engines due to the fact they know they won't keep the vehicle past a certain age due to the stringent inspections and regulations for older vehicles. I feel like that this Sambar might validate those rumors.
I agree. Those keitruck platform trucks are usually used by (old) farmers in countryside and warming procedures and careful use of them is not often made.
So, as a certified Cummins tech that builds lots of engines, I have to point out to you that the upper rod bearing will see the heaviest wear. As the piston is being pushed down on the power stroke, all that downward force is applied to the upper rod bearing. The lower rod bearing does not see near as much force. The opposite is true of main bearings, The power stroke tries to push the crankshaft out of the bottom of the engine, and the lower main bearings will see the most wear. Just thought I'd point that out to you, I was hoping to see the upper rod bearing for the #1 cylinder...
Yeah, I pulled the lowers just to confirm that the rod bearings were worn and causing the noise so we could get the bearings ordered. Takes about two weeks to get parts from japan. Hoping I can clean up/polish the crank as much as possible in the block, might have to order an oversized bearing for cylinder 1, depending on how it plastigauges, post cleanup effort.
I would run some engine oil flush with a new filter, drain and repeat to clear out as much of the original gunk as possible, then put break-in oil and start driving gingerly.
If you are in Virginia, there is a guy who imports tons of them in Mt. Airy. Mayberry Minitrucks. My buddy and I went over there to test drive and he has tons and he'll hunt for one special if you tell him what you want. He has a TH-cam channel.
I enjoyed the video and look forward to the 'partial' engine overhaul.. I would agree that a full engine build might be too much to throw at this vehicle.. of course it does depend on what that would cost and the future use of the vehicle... Engine oil choice might be important now, a heavier grade than original spec but in any case twice annual oil changes and one a month after your re-build... Any Forester or Ascent videos coming up soon?
Last comment delete. Sorry Mr Subaru if my last comment was not appropriate. I was just saying that those keitruck use to have harsh treatment in countryside in Japan
Maybe you already knew or someone already told you but, @0:05 it`s written [timing belt 36667km] . not sure if it means it is changed (probably) or if it needs to be changed at that mileage.
I am considering imporintg a sambar whch has a engine noise in the video, they say they think its just valve noise and say they can service it. But do you have videos with different sounds of valve noise vs rod bearings for the sambar engine?
How can I reach out to you, I’m importing a low mileage ej204 legacy ts type R 5 speed manual I’d like you to do an inspection for me and the channel and compare the differences between the JDM and USDM markets , thanks
? I have a 2004 Subaru Forster with a 2.5 non turbo. Drained the auto trans. pan and put on a new Subaru filter. The owner's manual says 9.8 qts. ? what I drained was less than 4.5. Cold I filled it too the cold full mark, drove it to get it up to temp. Rechecked and it was not even on the stick. Added more and drove it again. it was showing a bit under hot full line. I checked it next am cold and it was up in the hot range. drove it again and it was about mid-way on hot reading?? what is going on here please. How can it be over full on the cold reading and almost low on the hot?
You only check the transmission fluid level when the transmission has reached normal operating temperature. There is a difference in the amount of fluid required, 9.4 quarts is transmission capacity, the amount you replaced is referred to as service refill. Hope this helps.
Typically you check transmission fluid level with the fluid hot and the engine idling. The transmission should be in neutral. This is common but you should check to verify this procedure is proper for Subaru.
Did I hear that right, the engine initially ran bad, so you replace plugs and other stuff, but didn’t change the oil before you started it? Seems like a terrible idea.
The truck came to me as a no start off the ship from Japan. The dock mechanic flooded and fuel fouled the plugs. The truck was sold as in good running condition through the auction. All I was supposed to do was diag the no start, then install the supplied maintenance parts. Right after I got it to run I noticed the rod knock. Def didn't happen 10 minutes after getting it to start.
Before importing an engine from Japan I saw rumors that the citizens there sometimes don't maintain the engines due to the fact they know they won't keep the vehicle past a certain age due to the stringent inspections and regulations for older vehicles. I feel like that this Sambar might validate those rumors.
I agree. Those keitruck platform trucks are usually used by (old) farmers in countryside and warming procedures and careful use of them is not often made.
So, as a certified Cummins tech that builds lots of engines, I have to point out to you that the upper rod bearing will see the heaviest wear. As the piston is being pushed down on the power stroke, all that downward force is applied to the upper rod bearing. The lower rod bearing does not see near as much force. The opposite is true of main bearings, The power stroke tries to push the crankshaft out of the bottom of the engine, and the lower main bearings will see the most wear. Just thought I'd point that out to you, I was hoping to see the upper rod bearing for the #1 cylinder...
Yeah, I pulled the lowers just to confirm that the rod bearings were worn and causing the noise so we could get the bearings ordered. Takes about two weeks to get parts from japan. Hoping I can clean up/polish the crank as much as possible in the block, might have to order an oversized bearing for cylinder 1, depending on how it plastigauges, post cleanup effort.
I really enjoy these thorough videos, brings me a lot of knowledge
Glad to hear it!
Rod knock is to me like nails on a chalk board is to most people. It shivers me timbers.
I would run some engine oil flush with a new filter, drain and repeat to clear out as much of the original gunk as possible, then put break-in oil and start driving gingerly.
Ok, convinced. Have to get one now. My sisters live near Richmond so maybe have it shipped into Norfolk, I think they can do that.
If you are in Virginia, there is a guy who imports tons of them in Mt. Airy. Mayberry Minitrucks. My buddy and I went over there to test drive and he has tons and he'll hunt for one special if you tell him what you want. He has a TH-cam channel.
Do it! Expect and budget for repairs, but do it!
There's an import center in Newport News
I enjoyed the video and look forward to the 'partial' engine overhaul.. I would agree that a full engine build might be too much to throw at this vehicle.. of course it does depend on what that would cost and the future use of the vehicle...
Engine oil choice might be important now, a heavier grade than original spec but in any case twice annual oil changes and one a month after your re-build...
Any Forester or Ascent videos coming up soon?
Not on the foreseeable horizon. Could change tomorrow depending on what shows up at my gate. lol
Very interesting! Still hopeful for this owner. Thanks for sharing.
Fingers crossed!
I would try BG Engine flush kit. It does wonders.
Sensei have much in Mr Subaru
There is a sambar van for sell on the marketplace in missouri. Think they were wanting 7k for it.
Last comment delete. Sorry Mr Subaru if my last comment was not appropriate. I was just saying that those keitruck use to have harsh treatment in countryside in Japan
I didn't delete any comment. TH-cam system might have flagged it.
Ah ok. Didn't say anything bad though. maybe the word R.P.M makes algorithms crazy😂
Can you use some fine-grit polishing tape to polish the crank at #1?
That's the plan. Try to polish it up as much as possible.
Maybe you already knew or someone already told you but, @0:05 it`s written [timing belt 36667km] . not sure if it means it is changed (probably) or if it needs to be changed at that mileage.
Yeah I used google translate camera on it. lol Has like 85k km on it now. Customer supplied parts and requested the service.
Would you be able to film a video on the 5 speed MT bind issue when going to reverse?
Any update on this? Did replacing the bearings fix the issue?
@MrSubaru1387 - *Knock-knock* Who's there? Conrod! "Conrod", who?! Spare the rod and change the 🤬 oil!
Can you post up what oil pan separator tool that is please?
Did you have to remove the crankshaft or were you able t change the connecting rod bearing without dong so?
Off topic comment. Would like to hear what ya know on the engine coolant bypass valves for 2019 to 2021 subarus.
I am considering imporintg a sambar whch has a engine noise in the video, they say they think its just valve noise and say they can service it. But do you have videos with different sounds of valve noise vs rod bearings for the sambar engine?
Tell please how can check engine serial number of Subaru sambar van
How can I reach out to you, I’m importing a low mileage ej204 legacy ts type R 5 speed manual I’d like you to do an inspection for me and the channel and compare the differences between the JDM and USDM markets , thanks
STP man!
See you just needed another around to realize how much you missed yours..LOL
? I have a 2004 Subaru Forster with a 2.5 non turbo. Drained the auto trans. pan and put on a new Subaru filter. The owner's manual says 9.8 qts. ? what I drained was less than 4.5. Cold I filled it too the cold full mark, drove it to get it up to temp. Rechecked and it was not even on the stick. Added more and drove it again. it was showing a bit under hot full line. I checked it next am cold and it was up in the hot range. drove it again and it was about mid-way on hot reading?? what is going on here please. How can it be over full on the cold reading and almost low on the hot?
You only check the transmission fluid level when the transmission has reached normal operating temperature.
There is a difference in the amount of fluid required, 9.4 quarts is transmission capacity, the amount you replaced is referred to as service refill.
Hope this helps.
Typically you check transmission fluid level with the fluid hot and the engine idling. The transmission should be in neutral. This is common but you should check to verify this procedure is proper for Subaru.
Thank you, that cold reading was blowing my mind. @@nickl2548
When the vehicle is stopped oil drains from the torque converter into the pan, that's why you get a higher reading.
Nick, should I check it running or shut off? @@nickl2548
Seafoam that thing.
Did I hear that right, the engine initially ran bad, so you replace plugs and other stuff, but didn’t change the oil before you started it? Seems like a terrible idea.
The truck came to me as a no start off the ship from Japan. The dock mechanic flooded and fuel fouled the plugs. The truck was sold as in good running condition through the auction. All I was supposed to do was diag the no start, then install the supplied maintenance parts. Right after I got it to run I noticed the rod knock. Def didn't happen 10 minutes after getting it to start.
Put some gloves on, my guy! Used motor oil is a carcinogen
😀