Great video as always Eric. I really appreciate it! I bought the car in 2019 from the original owner in Wisconsin with 142k miles on it. Car didn't burn any oil until the thermostat was replaced with an autozone brand part and started overheating regularly. I promptly replaced the part with the correct oem motorcraft thermostat (These cars demand it) but the car continued to burn oil and admittedly I didn't stay on top of it. Over the course of 6 weeks unchecked it consumed 2 quarts of oil. I topped it off but the damage was done. CHECK YOUR OIL! I did end up finding a rear-ended 03 Marauder in Kentucky and pulled the motor (128k miles) car is back up and running. Lesson learned 6k later... (Engine plus install) Thanks to all who subbed you guys are awesome!
Thank you so much for the engine and your experience, both of which make for a very instructive tear down. I just had a service done on my own vehicle. I get the oil changed every 3 months regardless of mileage and check the oil level weekly.
WAP stands for Windsor Aluminum Plant, where the blocks were cast. I worked there at the time. The engines were assembled at Romeo Engine Plant in Romeo, Michigan.
As a midwestern tech, I really appreciate the struggle of getting the busted nut out of the socket. Thanks for sharing the better parts of my existence :)
Just though I'd let you know, I live in Las Vegas. One of the driest cities in the world. After 30 years, I can loosen the bolts on the exhaust without breaking or stripping.
Thank you for keeping this a family friendly channel. I send a lot of kids and teenagers to your channel with no worries. I hope your approach to dismantling engines will spark a love for it in younger folk. They LOVE your jokes and wait for a notification when you drop a new video. Thank you very much! It's appreciated.
As an old timer...these modern engine's are race quality from the tech indy 70s 80s. Knife edged cranks, chamfered oil holes, beefy rod's, and coated piston skirts. Windage trays too. I know it's all for efficiency but, nice. Regardless of manufacturer. I'm a gearhead and love them all. Even a yugo can be modified.
Yeah. Those plugs are original. Motorcraft, stopped using those plugs with the half threads within a couple of years. As a matter of fact. Tech bulletins had to be issued because people thought the replacement plugs for those, with full threads, would damage the cylinder heads or were not correct for use. It was fun trying to explain to people that there were. I got tired of doing it after a while and tore out the tech bulletin from my catalog and had it laminated so I could present it to people whenever the issue came up.
I love the Oregon Trail references. Just like elementary school. "Your impact died of dysentery". The marauder 4.6 was a great upgrade for the 2 valve 4.6 in the F150. My 98 f150 had the Romeo 2 valve and I got a hold of one of these and it was amazing.
That crank journal wear seems like a classic case of abrasive embedding itself into the softer bearing material. The softer material becomes like sandpaper, and oddly it's the harder material of the crank that wears away. Machinists take advantage of this phenomenon by using copper lapping plates embedded with diamond abrasive to lap granite surfaces. The diamond embedded copper cuts through the granite like buttah.
In late November I was out for a week with COVID. These videos were such an entertaining way to pass the time and learn a bit about engines. I'm in on every new video. Thanks Eric.
I still remember that original marauder tear down this first time. I cant believe its been 2 years since then. Thank you for all the years of entertainment so far eric. Merry Christmas to you and the family.
The person donating the engine would surely hear the rod knock. The story about the engine overheating is interesting, but there is no damage to the heads or the head gaskets. This engine was starved for oil and that took out the bearing. To remove the exhaust manifold you should heat up the bolts first one at a time (you may want to resell the heads, which will need the broken bolts removed). Take it easy at first to see how much heat it takes to just come loose (usually for aluminum heads, you are below a red glow, for cast iron head you can go red hot), and slowly ramp up the heat until the fastener comes loose. Do not use your impact wrench use a large ratchet to get a feel for the torque required and how the fasteners are responding to heat. Then start with a low power 1/2 in impact (Milwaukee makes one) this way you will not break bolts or round heads. You can use CRC Knock'er Loose Penetrating Solvent to help the bolt face rotate on the flange, it does not really penetrate into the threads, which is okay because you are using heat to break the thread adhesion. The aluminum head will not be damaged due to its heat sinking capacity. The most common torch set up is Oxy Acetylene, but you are using it for heating and obviously not welding or cutting. The head castings are rather massive.
OMG you had me laughing my ass off with the socket and stuck bolt. Thanks Eric, I really needed that this morning 👊 Always a fun time when you tear down an engine.
There are a couple tricks for removing rusty bolts here in the midwest. Pretty simple but without patience you'd be better off just snapping the bolt. The trick is to try and unscrew until the bolt moves. Once you see it move tighten it back up. Unscrew again and tighten. Do that a few times and it will come right out. This idea, compounded with heat and penetrate will do wonders especially for bolts inside blocks or heads. My preferred way of removing snapped bolts from my sockets is to stick the biggest screw driver I can find down the anvil side of the socket and slam it on the desk/table/ground like a jammed rifle or shotgun. Sometimes you can get the bolt head to hit the ceiling :)
A Miata parks a couple of spots down from me and has the plate “A MIATA is always the answer”, makes me think of this channel whenever I see it. It’s also odd because it’s always been sold as the MX-5 over here. Anyway, thanks Ian and merry Christmas!
Obviously someone pulled the pan and changed the bearings at some point. A steel crank would never wear out more then a aluminum alloyed bearing even without a heat treatment on the crank. At some point that bad journal had a spun bearing which was replaced.
Thanks for donating the engine Ian. A great video as always Eric...you learned a trick that works for those sideways main bolts to be removed if nothing else🙂 Merry Christmas to one and all🙂
I was not prepared for when and where you inserted the *_"PENETRATOR"_* . . . . and I believe I may have actually lol'd. Thanks for the laugh and another year of awesome videos. Merry Christmas to you and your family & employees. edit: And Thank you to Ian for the engine.
Enjoyed! You helped make 2013 a great year, Eric. Been a couple of "bumps in the road" and each week you've helped me through them! Check your oil and I'll see you soon.
I saw an adjustable (Crescent-style) wrench being used. I was taught many years ago to always pull against the fixed jaw of the wrench, not the movable jaw to help fastener grip and not cause wear to the movable jaw worm gear/rack.
I am starting to think that Ford has a single goal in mind when designing their engines: "How many different tools can we make our techs use?". Within the first 8 minutes, before the valve covers even came off, we have adjustable wrenches, corrosive breath, scaling sizes of sledge. Fantastic work.
Finally , an exhaust manifold removal I can identify with , bolts that say 13 but scream 12 , induction heaters are a great invention. On the plus side , it taught me broken bolt removal .
Another great teardown Eric, thankyou. I'd love a Marauder but we never got them here in Australia. Shame to have hurt that motor like that, but at least we got a cool video out of it. :) Happy Christmas to you and your family!
Merry Christmas! Loved the video. Quick tip: Anything plastic or rubber that's stuck - like that dipstick O-ring, or an electrical connector - shoot it with some silicone lubricant spray (I like the blaster brand, personally). Usually makes it a lot easier to remove! Thanks!
Loved the video. Really surprised to see the crank worn as much or more than the bearing! The socket/hammer part was hilarious! Anyone who has worked on rusty/old cars & trucks can totally relate! Looking forward to the next teardown Eric.
Had a ‘03 Mach 1 with this engine. Great power for the time but it’s amazing that just 20 years later my wife”s Explorer ST has 100 more HP from 1.6 fewer liters (although it also has two more turbos) than the 4.6 has…
@@TML34keep it below 10psi and you'll be fine! E85 and/or meth is a extremely good idea as well.... But that goes for all boosted engines really but 🤷 Mod motors love boost BTW..... Still think the original plan for new edge mustangs were to be supercharged..... What other reason do they have hydroboost for?
Hello. Was watching your video and would like to weigh in on something you said. WAP or wap doesn’t stand for Windsor Assembly Plant. It stands for Windsor Aluminum Plant. It’s a foundry that I worked at as a manufacturing engineer. That block was cast using the Cosworth process and happens to have cast oil passages in the block. Normally oil passages are drilled. Getting the sa sand core out of the passages was a particularly annoying job for our processing equipment after the block was cooled and cleaned. Any small bit of sand (zircon sand not silica sand was used in that foundry) that was not cleaned would come loose and blow immediately down into the main bearing. However this particular engines showed rod journal bearing damage which would tell me that the foundry got this engine clean of sand. Anyway. I’m retired now. The foundry was owned by Ford Motor Company but was sold to Neman when Ford thrifted itself out of the casting business. So technically your friends engine block would have been cast by Neman and not Ford
I would say the timing guides and tensioners have definitely been replaced as they came with plastic tensioners and those appear to be upgraded iron ratcheting style tensioners, I just did mine in a 2004 marauder with 100700 miles on the clock and it was certainly saved from a close death when I bought it as previous owner was running it with the chain on direct metal as the whole guide on the passenger side was missing and was starting to go into the metal. driver side was still there but the plastic had been worn down to an almost see through consistency. The engine was also over two quarts low on oil and very black which didn't help the chain on metal situation. I've run it for 2k miles so far after the repairs and it seems to have been saved from death. These engines certainly require diligent oil changes.
I finally subscribed i have watched many of your tear down videos. I am a retired ford tech and have R&r'ed many engines more so in gm vehicles than ever in ford products. I'd say 85 plus percent of engine replacements i have done is from customer neglect no matter what brand of vehicle. Lack of servicing, I do not believe in toyota's/mitsubishi's 10,000 mile oil change intervals if you want to go ahead, if the oil is dark it's dirty/contaminated. People will change their oil on time but will neglect all other fluids in a vehicle, coolant, trans, p/s fluids, diff, and also brake fluids. I don't believe in lifetime fluids like when ford came out with the mercon lv trans fluid stating never had to be changed. Gm's 3.6 timing chain issues, ford 5.4 3 valve phaser/chain issues and other makes with simular issues usually caused from long awaited oil changes. 3k to 5k oil changes not 7k, 8k, or 10k oil changes is what eats em up folks. I bought a 85 f-150 new and drove it 35 damn years and the odometer 5 digit rolled 7 times 700,000 plus miles 302/5.0 with a manual transmission on havoline 10w40 oil at 3000k changes. Does the oil brand matter heck no but change it. There's no reason a chevy or dodge or any brand would have ran as long and be trouble free cause i have seen them all do it. SERVICE em folks check those fluids. I drive a 2006 taurus it has over 500000 miles only things ever replaced it batteries a starter alternator brakes belts, struts ball joints and fluids, no major failures not even a water pump. Do it yourself if you don't know how heck youtube it and double check everything you do. Grow some balls america.
The 32 valves in the navigator suffer valve guide warp because the egr pipe being too close to the head! Why didn’t they do it like this? I think those pipes are hard to find these days! Might be worth some money! The spark plugs had paint on the top from the factory… I’ve always wanted to put one of these in a Towncar with a 6 speed… I love the panther platform!! This video makes my year!! Thanks Eric!!
Nice vid! I have an 03 Mach 1, and this is VERY similar to that engine. Not the same, as you pointed out, but I had some flashbacks - I mean, memories - of tearing mine down during this.
As always, I appreciate your videos. Very informative, but also I absolutely love your humour. I always have a laugh or two. Keep up the amazing work Eric. Love every minute of every video. Thanks
I really like your channel so don’t take this the wrong way, whenever you use an adjustable wrench, you wanna put the pressure against the fixed side not the adjustable side. Thank God, you don’t say anything about WD-40 being a lubricant or a penetrating oil of some sort I can’t get over how many people think that stuff is the best. Where I come from WD stands for water displacement. There’s nothing in there about lubricating and I’ve had instances where it wasn’t worth a shit for lubricating. Keep up the good work I really like your channel.
43:08 the cranks in the Marauder/Aviator/Mach 1 autos are nodular iron IIRC; wanna say it's the same basic crank you'd find in a Romeo 4.6 2V but don't quote me on that; I do know they were 6-bolt. Manual Mach 1s got forged 8-bolt cranks that were nominally the same as the Cobra.
It didn't really matter, though. The worth of that engine would have been about the same if it had "inspection ports". I wonder what that engine sounded like when it was running before he pulled it.
Wow! You need to invest in some flare wrenches for pipes! I can't believe: 1) There was enough room for that monster adjustable spanner to get on that flare nut 2) It didn't just round off instantly -It's a Christmas miracle!
Getting studs and nuts out of sockets trick: There square hole for driving the socket goes all the way through the socket, so go to your vice, set the jaws so the outer edges of the socket sit on the jaws, have the socket drive side up, insert a rod, old long bolt or similar through the square drive hole, beat on it. You will win. although I expect you know that and you just did what you did for the ever bigger hammers gag! Merry Christmas 🙂
Happy Holidays and a great new year. Lets hope for some great tear downs and lots of nice failures for 2024. Have enjoyed your channel so much over the last year and hope to see much more
17:00 in or so...the cams are still installed and the engine has compression. So the chain moved as the cam rolled off the lobe. You probably know but have a lot to think about.
Manuals , wonderful inventions. Man I hate seeing good , even questionable parts tossed when there is Always someone that would take it or needs it. That water pump had to be recent , I had to change my original off on my 200,000+ Lincoln once reaching my daughters in Montana before heading home to Kansas. My son in law and I fought and beat and fought it for over an hour sure we had to do something off , but it came finaly and was sooooo corroded it was basicly welded on lol. I would love to have a Marauder , being a Panther Fan . My Lincoln needs chains and tensioners , pump and pickup. But with the miles on her I cant complain for an 01 Town Car. Was still in good shape but a late hail got it dinged up so now debating on its future. Keep the BFH readily available. You might be surprised how things clean up and last for many moons. Thanks for posting.
Find a good paintless dent repair shop. Ask for a discount and offer them the ability to remove the dents when they are slow. I've seen paintless dent repair work wonders on a hail damaged car.
Great video as always Eric. I really appreciate it! I bought the car in 2019 from the original owner in Wisconsin with 142k miles on it. Car didn't burn any oil until the thermostat was replaced with an autozone brand part and started overheating regularly. I promptly replaced the part with the correct oem motorcraft thermostat (These cars demand it) but the car continued to burn oil and admittedly I didn't stay on top of it. Over the course of 6 weeks unchecked it consumed 2 quarts of oil. I topped it off but the damage was done. CHECK YOUR OIL! I did end up finding a rear-ended 03 Marauder in Kentucky and pulled the motor (128k miles) car is back up and running. Lesson learned 6k later... (Engine plus install) Thanks to all who subbed you guys are awesome!
Sorry to hear you had to go through all that
The things we do for the cars we love
But a thanks from one of us for our viewing pleasure
Thank you for your sacrifice!
Having the background info is great, thanks for both that and the engine
Thank you so much for the engine and your experience, both of which make for a very instructive tear down. I just had a service done on my own vehicle. I get the oil changed every 3 months regardless of mileage and check the oil level weekly.
I appreciate the sacrifice you made in order to bring us the tear down….had you checked the oil in that 6 weeks, we wouldn’t be watching this video.
6:10 those clean valves really make you appreciate port injection!
WAP stands for Windsor Aluminum Plant, where the blocks were cast. I worked there at the time. The engines were assembled at Romeo Engine Plant in Romeo, Michigan.
As a midwestern tech, I really appreciate the struggle of getting the busted nut out of the socket. Thanks for sharing the better parts of my existence :)
I appreciate seeing it as well. Only thing I would like to hear was "ope"
Just though I'd let you know, I live in Las Vegas. One of the driest cities in the world. After 30 years, I can loosen the bolts on the exhaust without breaking or stripping.
Lol I'm in the UK, everything is rusty and siezed
If the socket has a hole through it, you can use a drift pin to hammer it out.
I'm with you bud. I had to hammer a socket onto a lugnut to remove it. Had to use a hydraulic press and punch to get the nut out.
Thank you for keeping this a family friendly channel. I send a lot of kids and teenagers to your channel with no worries. I hope your approach to dismantling engines will spark a love for it in younger folk. They LOVE your jokes and wait for a notification when you drop a new video. Thank you very much! It's appreciated.
OMG the hammer size progression was a riot! LOL Merry Christmas, sir and thanks for another awesome video!
Sledgehammer time! LOL
Bring out the BFH.
It was the Jeremy Clarkson toolset
OMG! OMG! OMG! While running around in heals clutching her pearls...
As an old timer...these modern engine's are race quality from the tech indy 70s 80s. Knife edged cranks, chamfered oil holes, beefy rod's, and coated piston skirts. Windage trays too. I know it's all for efficiency but, nice. Regardless of manufacturer. I'm a gearhead and love them all. Even a yugo can be modified.
Yeah. Those plugs are original.
Motorcraft, stopped using those plugs with the half threads within a couple of years.
As a matter of fact. Tech bulletins had to be issued because people thought the replacement plugs for those, with full threads, would damage the cylinder heads or were not correct for use.
It was fun trying to explain to people that there were. I got tired of doing it after a while and tore out the tech bulletin from my catalog and had it laminated so I could present it to people whenever the issue came up.
We owe Ian a big thanks for tonight's engine.
Merry Christmas to Ian and his family!
(almost forgot Eric as well)
Ian? His name is Eric
Ian is the guy who donated the engine.
@@robertwest3093 gotcha my bad lol
I love the Oregon Trail references. Just like elementary school. "Your impact died of dysentery".
The marauder 4.6 was a great upgrade for the 2 valve 4.6 in the F150. My 98 f150 had the Romeo 2 valve and I got a hold of one of these and it was amazing.
Fingers crossed. 98 Lincoln Continental all original 4.6 32-valve. Just passed 347k miles and counting.
If there's one thing this channel taught me (besides oil level check) is to always keep an eye on the temp gauge.
The water pump design is really good, small, externally accessible and belt driven.
and with a stainless steel impellor...
and an O ring seal....
real engineering.
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Yeah, good additional points 🙂
and not phallic looking
As well as a weep hole that actually works as intended!
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 Yes, the weep hole not leading to an oil compartment 🙂
That crank journal wear seems like a classic case of abrasive embedding itself into the softer bearing material. The softer material becomes like sandpaper, and oddly it's the harder material of the crank that wears away. Machinists take advantage of this phenomenon by using copper lapping plates embedded with diamond abrasive to lap granite surfaces. The diamond embedded copper cuts through the granite like buttah.
I blew a briggs opposed recently, seems there was a buildup of material on the crank journal.
In late November I was out for a week with COVID. These videos were such an entertaining way to pass the time and learn a bit about engines. I'm in on every new video. Thanks Eric.
Glad you’re on the mend! That Covid really takes it out of ya
Feel for you bro. Our Xmas plans were destroyed because of Covid. Can’t visit my parents and family thanks to its turmoil!
I got covid right now I can't smell or taste anything WTF
I had it in early November and it kicked my ass hard. Glad you're on the upswing.
I still remember that original marauder tear down this first time. I cant believe its been 2 years since then.
Thank you for all the years of entertainment so far eric. Merry Christmas to you and the family.
I thought it was literally like 2 months ago!
I never thought watching someone taking an engine apart could be so interesting. but you sir make it very enjoyable. Thanks
Dip stick deserved a B-slap!! Thanks for all the great videos this year Eric. Happy Holidays to you and all the IDC subscribers!
It deserves a good waterpump treatment._
The person donating the engine would surely hear the rod knock. The story about the engine overheating is interesting, but there is no damage to the heads or the head gaskets. This engine was starved for oil and that took out the bearing.
To remove the exhaust manifold you should heat up the bolts first one at a time (you may want to resell the heads, which will need the broken bolts removed). Take it easy at first to see how much heat it takes to just come loose (usually for aluminum heads, you are below a red glow, for cast iron head you can go red hot), and slowly ramp up the heat until the fastener comes loose. Do not use your impact wrench use a large ratchet to get a feel for the torque required and how the fasteners are responding to heat. Then start with a low power 1/2 in impact (Milwaukee makes one) this way you will not break bolts or round heads. You can use CRC Knock'er Loose Penetrating Solvent to help the bolt face rotate on the flange, it does not really penetrate into the threads, which is okay because you are using heat to break the thread adhesion. The aluminum head will not be damaged due to its heat sinking capacity. The most common torch set up is Oxy Acetylene, but you are using it for heating and obviously not welding or cutting.
The head castings are rather massive.
OMG you had me laughing my ass off with the socket and stuck bolt. Thanks Eric, I really needed that this morning 👊 Always a fun time when you tear down an engine.
There are a couple tricks for removing rusty bolts here in the midwest. Pretty simple but without patience you'd be better off just snapping the bolt. The trick is to try and unscrew until the bolt moves. Once you see it move tighten it back up. Unscrew again and tighten. Do that a few times and it will come right out.
This idea, compounded with heat and penetrate will do wonders especially for bolts inside blocks or heads.
My preferred way of removing snapped bolts from my sockets is to stick the biggest screw driver I can find down the anvil side of the socket and slam it on the desk/table/ground like a jammed rifle or shotgun. Sometimes you can get the bolt head to hit the ceiling :)
Amazing how much crank wear there is considering how little bearing wear there is one cylinder 2.
Bad heat treatment?_
@@DjResRThis isn't heat treated, that's why it looks like that.
Surface hardening is a relatively new thing.
A Miata parks a couple of spots down from me and has the plate “A MIATA is always the answer”, makes me think of this channel whenever I see it. It’s also odd because it’s always been sold as the MX-5 over here.
Anyway, thanks Ian and merry Christmas!
Wow, I have never seen a crank wear out more than a bearing.
Obviously someone pulled the pan and changed the bearings at some point. A steel crank would never wear out more then a aluminum alloyed bearing even without a heat treatment on the crank. At some point that bad journal had a spun bearing which was replaced.
The comedy in this video today is top notch. I laughed almost the entire time.
Been ages since a good dipstick fight too.
Love that you've embraced craming the cap-cams loose. It makes me smile every time! Merry Christmas to you
Thanks for donating the engine Ian. A great video as always Eric...you learned a trick that works for those sideways main bolts to be removed if nothing else🙂
Merry Christmas to one and all🙂
These are some of the most aesthetically pleasing engine to look at. I love those valve covers.
I was not prepared for when and where you inserted the *_"PENETRATOR"_* . . . . and I believe I may have actually lol'd.
Thanks for the laugh and another year of awesome videos. Merry Christmas to you and your family & employees.
edit: And Thank you to Ian for the engine.
Merry Christmas! Thanks for all the great content this year.
Dysentery comment on the battery, equals, 'crapped out'; but in the end, it recovered with the correct amount of remediation (cure). Nice video Eric.
People are so hung up on horsepower numbers. Any 300 horse V8 is still healthy in my book. Nice video 👍🏼 enjoy the holidays.
Enjoyed! You helped make 2013 a great year, Eric. Been a couple of "bumps in the road" and each week you've helped me through them! Check your oil and I'll see you soon.
I recognized that engine as soon as I saw it! Someday when I rebuild my Marauder, I'll know what to expect!
I saw an adjustable (Crescent-style) wrench being used. I was taught many years ago to always pull against the fixed jaw of the wrench, not the movable jaw to help fastener grip and not cause wear to the movable jaw worm gear/rack.
I am starting to think that Ford has a single goal in mind when designing their engines: "How many different tools can we make our techs use?". Within the first 8 minutes, before the valve covers even came off, we have adjustable wrenches, corrosive breath, scaling sizes of sledge. Fantastic work.
You haven't worked on European cars have you?
Finally , an exhaust manifold removal I can identify with , bolts that say 13 but scream 12 , induction heaters are a great invention.
On the plus side , it taught me broken bolt removal .
Merry Christmas to you and your family, Eric, and to Ian for tonight's engine.
Another great teardown Eric, thankyou. I'd love a Marauder but we never got them here in Australia. Shame to have hurt that motor like that, but at least we got a cool video out of it. :)
Happy Christmas to you and your family!
Love that Car. I wish they never stopped producing them.
Merry Christmas! Loved the video. Quick tip: Anything plastic or rubber that's stuck - like that dipstick O-ring, or an electrical connector - shoot it with some silicone lubricant spray (I like the blaster brand, personally). Usually makes it a lot easier to remove! Thanks!
Loved the video. Really surprised to see the crank worn as much or more than the bearing! The socket/hammer part was hilarious! Anyone who has worked on rusty/old cars & trucks can totally relate! Looking forward to the next teardown Eric.
I used to own a Mach 1 (essentially the same motor) when I was 20, which was 20 years ago. Thanks for this!
These tear down sounds are borderline ASMR. Keep it up.
Had a ‘03 Mach 1 with this engine. Great power for the time but it’s amazing that just 20 years later my wife”s Explorer ST has 100 more HP from 1.6 fewer liters (although it also has two more turbos) than the 4.6 has…
It’s amazing a 20 year newer expensive ass performance engine has only 100+ on this
Apples to oranges. Put turbos on that Marauder engine. Then your Explorer ST is more like a Civic compared.
@@stevemccauley5734the 4.6 would be throwing rods out the block if you boosted it. 😂
@@TML34 depends.
When boost is ran, engine should technically be running lower C ratio.
Plus, some Ford 4.6 5.0 have some weak pistons in them
@@TML34keep it below 10psi and you'll be fine! E85 and/or meth is a extremely good idea as well.... But that goes for all boosted engines really but 🤷
Mod motors love boost BTW..... Still think the original plan for new edge mustangs were to be supercharged..... What other reason do they have hydroboost for?
5:59........got to be something said about good old Port-Injection....👍👍
Hello. Was watching your video and would like to weigh in on something you said. WAP or wap doesn’t stand for Windsor Assembly Plant. It stands for Windsor Aluminum Plant. It’s a foundry that I worked at as a manufacturing engineer. That block was cast using the Cosworth process and happens to have cast oil passages in the block. Normally oil passages are drilled. Getting the sa sand core out of the passages was a particularly annoying job for our processing equipment after the block was cooled and cleaned. Any small bit of sand (zircon sand not silica sand was used in that foundry) that was not cleaned would come loose and blow immediately down into the main bearing. However this particular engines showed rod journal bearing damage which would tell me that the foundry got this engine clean of sand. Anyway. I’m retired now. The foundry was owned by Ford Motor Company but was sold to Neman when Ford thrifted itself out of the casting business. So technically your friends engine block would have been cast by Neman and not Ford
First time viewer really enjoyed getting informed. Engines are a lot different from my time at Ted's garage in the 60's.
I would say the timing guides and tensioners have definitely been replaced as they came with plastic tensioners and those appear to be upgraded iron ratcheting style tensioners, I just did mine in a 2004 marauder with 100700 miles on the clock and it was certainly saved from a close death when I bought it as previous owner was running it with the chain on direct metal as the whole guide on the passenger side was missing and was starting to go into the metal. driver side was still there but the plastic had been worn down to an almost see through consistency. The engine was also over two quarts low on oil and very black which didn't help the chain on metal situation. I've run it for 2k miles so far after the repairs and it seems to have been saved from death. These engines certainly require diligent oil changes.
You bring a new meaning to "impact socket". Surprised you didn't use a slide hammer 😅
I finally subscribed i have watched many of your tear down videos. I am a retired ford tech and have R&r'ed many engines more so in gm vehicles than ever in ford products. I'd say 85 plus percent of engine replacements i have done is from customer neglect no matter what brand of vehicle. Lack of servicing, I do not believe in toyota's/mitsubishi's 10,000 mile oil change intervals if you want to go ahead, if the oil is dark it's dirty/contaminated. People will change their oil on time but will neglect all other fluids in a vehicle, coolant, trans, p/s fluids, diff, and also brake fluids. I don't believe in lifetime fluids like when ford came out with the mercon lv trans fluid stating never had to be changed. Gm's 3.6 timing chain issues, ford 5.4 3 valve phaser/chain issues and other makes with simular issues usually caused from long awaited oil changes. 3k to 5k oil changes not 7k, 8k, or 10k oil changes is what eats em up folks. I bought a 85 f-150 new and drove it 35 damn years and the odometer 5 digit rolled 7 times 700,000 plus miles 302/5.0 with a manual transmission on havoline 10w40 oil at 3000k changes. Does the oil brand matter heck no but change it. There's no reason a chevy or dodge or any brand would have ran as long and be trouble free cause i have seen them all do it. SERVICE em folks check those fluids. I drive a 2006 taurus it has over 500000 miles only things ever replaced it batteries a starter alternator brakes belts, struts ball joints and fluids, no major failures not even a water pump. Do it yourself if you don't know how heck youtube it and double check everything you do. Grow some balls america.
Omg the hammer skit was the absolute BOMB ! I had to watch it 4 times !!
I didn't know overheating causes a loss of springyness in the rings. I learn so much here. Thanks.
Dysentery!! I had it once. Made me crack up. Love it!
Thank you for another great video, appreciate your hard work and dedication including the editing skills.
👍
Thanks!
Thank you!
Now this is a Christmas present. Thank you so much.
Merry Christmas, Eric.
The 32 valves in the navigator suffer valve guide warp because the egr pipe being too close to the head! Why didn’t they do it like this? I think those pipes are hard to find these days! Might be worth some money! The spark plugs had paint on the top from the factory… I’ve always wanted to put one of these in a Towncar with a 6 speed… I love the panther platform!! This video makes my year!! Thanks Eric!!
Thanks Ian! Merry Christmas one and all!
Thank you Eric. Thank you Ian.
Happy Christmas Eve Eve Eric. A Marauder engine cool cannot wait for the breakdown.
Thank you Ian!
Thank you Eric! Merry Christmas! 🎁
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all! Thanks Ian for the engine!
Nice vid! I have an 03 Mach 1, and this is VERY similar to that engine. Not the same, as you pointed out, but I had some flashbacks - I mean, memories - of tearing mine down during this.
Thank you Eric! Merry Christmas!
As always, I appreciate your videos. Very informative, but also I absolutely love your humour. I always have a laugh or two. Keep up the amazing work Eric. Love every minute of every video. Thanks
Merry Christmas. Thank You for the memories. The way You throw parts almost into a bin. Much Love. Hope You get New Tools 😊
Thank you Ian, much appreciated!
I really like your channel so don’t take this the wrong way, whenever you use an adjustable wrench, you wanna put the pressure against the fixed side not the adjustable side. Thank God, you don’t say anything about WD-40 being a lubricant or a penetrating oil of some sort I can’t get over how many people think that stuff is the best. Where I come from WD stands for water displacement. There’s nothing in there about lubricating and I’ve had instances where it wasn’t worth a shit for lubricating. Keep up the good work I really like your channel.
Reminds me of taking apart my 98 Mercury Sable engine after it spent 7 winters bathing in New England road salts.
43:08 the cranks in the Marauder/Aviator/Mach 1 autos are nodular iron IIRC; wanna say it's the same basic crank you'd find in a Romeo 4.6 2V but don't quote me on that; I do know they were 6-bolt. Manual Mach 1s got forged 8-bolt cranks that were nominally the same as the Cobra.
I Love seeing you go thru some of the BS I did for years ..broken bolts etc
Exactly. Up here in the rust belt (Wisconsin) exhaust manifolds are an absolute nightmare.
Merry Christmas to you and your family and all the best for 2024, thank you for all the great videos in 2023! Cheers
Kudos to Ian for catching it before it blew apart.
It didn't really matter, though. The worth of that engine would have been about the same if it had "inspection ports". I wonder what that engine sounded like when it was running before he pulled it.
@@dougrobinson8602 - Right. Saving it early caused less damage to parts that Eric can sell, but the engine was still toast anyway.
Love cammin' those cap cracks loose. Not as much as hearing head bolts being loosened, but it right up there.
Great video!!!
I always liked the 4 cam marauder.
I am partial to them since I own a 64 marauder.
Merry Christmas to you and your family sir!
"Primitive valvetrain?" No, these cars don't have variable valve timing. That's not a bad thing. I have had issues with phasers. GREAT VIDEO!
Wow! You need to invest in some flare wrenches for pipes! I can't believe: 1) There was enough room for that monster adjustable spanner to get on that flare nut 2) It didn't just round off instantly -It's a Christmas miracle!
Getting studs and nuts out of sockets trick: There square hole for driving the socket goes all the way through the socket, so go to your vice, set the jaws so the outer edges of the socket sit on the jaws, have the socket drive side up, insert a rod, old long bolt or similar through the square drive hole, beat on it. You will win. although I expect you know that and you just did what you did for the ever bigger hammers gag! Merry Christmas 🙂
Always enjoy Saturday night teardowns
Enjoyed it as always.Have a great Christmass Eric!
Happy Holidays and a great new year. Lets hope for some great tear downs and lots of nice failures for 2024. Have enjoyed your channel so much over the last year and hope to see much more
lost two of these to oil issues. spun journals... melted and fused to the cam in the heads both times in my cobra
Redeemed himself on the mains from last time haha. Great video as always
Thanks Ian.
Thanx Ion!
your twist-crank engine stand is awesome.
Good vid - I think the dji’s image appears less filtered, and more natural. Very impressive
I always just put vice grips to the dipstick and hammer up on the vice grips, pretty sure I learned it from one of your videos
17:00 in or so...the cams are still installed and the engine has compression. So the chain moved as the cam rolled off the lobe. You probably know but have a lot to think about.
Thanks mate! Happy Holidays!
thanks Ian!
This is the video I've been waiting for!
Ian, you are a Great American Sir!
Thanks Ian! 😀👍
Sad boom boom! Marauders are so cool
47:07 very sound and honest advice.
Manuals , wonderful inventions. Man I hate seeing good , even questionable parts tossed when there is Always someone that would take it or needs it. That water pump had to be recent , I had to change my original off on my 200,000+ Lincoln once reaching my daughters in Montana before heading home to Kansas. My son in law and I fought and beat and fought it for over an hour sure we had to do something off , but it came finaly and was sooooo corroded it was basicly welded on lol. I would love to have a Marauder , being a Panther Fan . My Lincoln needs chains and tensioners , pump and pickup. But with the miles on her I cant complain for an 01 Town Car. Was still in good shape but a late hail got it dinged up so now debating on its future. Keep the BFH readily available. You might be surprised how things clean up and last for many moons. Thanks for posting.
Find a good paintless dent repair shop. Ask for a discount and offer them the ability to remove the dents when they are slow.
I've seen paintless dent repair work wonders on a hail damaged car.