I got rid of the P1345 code on my 97 Tahoe by doing the following. Loosen the distributor bolt. Twist the distributor counter-clockwise until there's only about a 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch gap between it and the manifold or plenum. In other words the gap area is front of truck side of distributor (away from the firewall). Then tighten the distributor bolt back down. I used my scan tool to clear the code and it stayed off.
wayneinfl i used my neighbor's AUTEL scan tool that allows you to set the timing and adjust the fuel and ABS and tons of other settings and it works perfect now. www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/autel-maxidas-automotive-diagnostic-and-analysis-system-62385.html
My New distributor had bad QC manufacturing, the phaser or gear is off by 2 or 3 degrees. BUT you can remove the lock down bracket, use narrow cutting wheel to notch one side away at bolt hole so you get up to 6 degrees adjust. I got lucky, notched correct side, but if not, FLIP IT OVER! You get same effect other direction! Check gasket seal!
I had that happen on my 97 cheyene, my nephew brought his trailer and picked the truck up. He said give it a crank lets see what it sounds like and it cranked and jerked and finally started. He said it sounds like timing chain skipped a tooth. I checked into new cap rotor distributor the whole lot. Bought delco cap and distributor instead of the cheap crap. Got a 6/32 tap and retapped the holes and put locktite on the threads on the rotor screws. Been 2 years haven't had a bit of problem since except the po1345 code that wont go away. People say you need to have it reset with a $2000 code reader that will do that. Regular diagnostic readers dont have the option to reset po1345 code. I figure its running fine and that lights been on for one reason or another since ive owned the truck so let it be. Another good trick if you have moisture problems on your coil shorting out is to spray it with flex seal ( liquid rubber in a can). No more problems with that either.
yeah i need to crawl back up in there with my magnetic probe and see if i can grab it. it hasn't come out anywhere yet so i'm sure it's hung up in there under a heat shield or something.
NOPE! the distributor was already in it at that point i was tightening the hold down bolt for the clamp when the stubby 13 MM decided it was outta there lol
Thanks for this video. I have the same code and I hope I can figure it out. I changed the cam sensor, so tomorrow I'm gonna change the crank sensor. My truck runs good for a little while - and then throws this code, runs like a stalling diesel, then shuts off. I am wondering how your engine ran before you changed these things?
Well done mate :-)), i knew you would get to the bottom of it :-) Yes i also thought it would be a shame to waste the old one without having a try at replacing the sensor part, then you will have crank and cam sensor as spares :-) I suppose thats the problem with generic obd2 codes, not quite specific enough, but better than a kick up the jacksie ha ha :-) The car has claimed your spanner as a light snack :)
may have but unless that wrench is out on the road somewhere i am going back in after it again with the magnetic extention or my little spring loaded claw grabber tool i have one of them should be able to pull it out just fine if i can just see it first :o) and yeah it would have been more easy of a repair if i had just been able to tell it was the Camshaft position sensor that had the problem in the first place but i at least got away with less than $100.00 total for the repair, a shop would have raked me over the coals on this repair.
of coarse a missing rotor screw would throw timing off completely (truck would run like shit if at all and give you a p1345... a new rotor and cap with a good cam sensor should fix problem..your crank sensor was still fine... there are videos on you tube that shows how to test them...
+MyREDTAIL the sensor it's self was only like $20.00 since my distributor rolled around like it did i got a new distributor too while i was at it. I believe the distributor cost me like $48.00 with a new Camshaft position sensor on it already
no that code is for the Cam position sensor and also the crank position sensor both. if you replaced the crank sensor and are still getting the code it's the cam sensor the one typically mounted under the rotor button in the distributor. the crank sensor is way cheaper but the cam sensor is more commonly the problem from what i've seen. that's what fixed mine too is replacing the cam sensor.
the rotor button was screwed and the code was there even with putting the new rotor button on the distributor. i thought about that one too before i went to all the trouble of yanking the old one out. actually the old distributor is back in it again now because the new one was for the 6 litre and it didn't sit right in the block but the cam position sensor was the same so i just swapped that out and haven't had a problem again since then.
My 96 is acting up with the cam and crank code set. Going to pop in a new crank sensor first even yhou I have read distributors are a big issue with these vortecs.
not really a BIG issue but they do have their challenges and they are a little more Frequent than my trucks with the HEI setup , i have one that has almost 300,000 miles on it with the same distributor. and for that matter my wife's Suburban does have 300,000 on it (98 vortec 350 ) with the original distributor in it also. so i guess it's touch and go either they work great for ever or you have an occasional issue with them no in between
Mine started giving me some studders than wouldn't start at all and went I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge to start the diagnosis it fired right up. Not its back to spuddering sometimes and threw up the 1345 code for crank/ cam.
have you tried replacing the fuel filter on it? i had a similar issue like this when my fuel pump went out too same symptoms and i don't wish having to change a tahoe fuel pump out on ANYONE that was not fun times at all.
I got rid of the P1345 code on my 97 Tahoe by doing the following. Loosen the distributor bolt. Twist the distributor counter-clockwise until there's only about a 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch gap between it and the manifold or plenum. In other words the gap area is front of truck side of distributor (away from the firewall). Then tighten the distributor bolt back down. I used my scan tool to clear the code and it stayed off.
wayneinfl i used my neighbor's AUTEL scan tool that allows you to set the timing and adjust the fuel and ABS and tons of other settings and it works perfect now.
www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/autel-maxidas-automotive-diagnostic-and-analysis-system-62385.html
My New distributor had bad QC manufacturing, the phaser or gear is off by 2 or 3 degrees. BUT you can remove the lock down bracket, use narrow cutting wheel to notch one side away at bolt hole so you get up to 6 degrees adjust. I got lucky, notched correct side, but if not, FLIP IT OVER! You get same effect other direction! Check gasket seal!
yeh thanks but you may close your door when your buzzer is sounding off that is all we here.
stephen Davidson
I hear ya Steven.. I had to turn the sound off. Not sure what I missed..
I had that happen on my 97 cheyene, my nephew brought his trailer and picked the truck up. He said give it a crank lets see what it sounds like and it cranked and jerked and finally started. He said it sounds like timing chain skipped a tooth. I checked into new cap rotor distributor the whole lot. Bought delco cap and distributor instead of the cheap crap. Got a 6/32 tap and retapped the holes and put locktite on the threads on the rotor screws. Been 2 years haven't had a bit of problem since except the po1345 code that wont go away. People say you need to have it reset with a $2000 code reader that will do that. Regular diagnostic readers dont have the option to reset po1345 code. I figure its running fine and that lights been on for one reason or another since ive owned the truck so let it be. Another good trick if you have moisture problems on your coil shorting out is to spray it with flex seal ( liquid rubber in a can). No more problems with that either.
I replaced the distributor and haven't had a problem since. thank you for watching, i appreciate you
You need to look up on the engine kinda by the passenger side rear from under it.. I always found tools on my truck there! Or bolts...
yeah i need to crawl back up in there with my magnetic probe and see if i can grab it. it hasn't come out anywhere yet so i'm sure it's hung up in there under a heat shield or something.
There is a ledge on the back of engine block that holds alot of stuff
it sounded like the wrench went down into one of the heat shields or something. might be fun getting to them
that wrench is down in the distributor hole LOL just kidding
NOPE! the distributor was already in it at that point i was tightening the hold down bolt for the clamp when the stubby 13 MM decided it was outta there lol
Thanks for this video. I have the same code and I hope I can figure it out. I changed the cam sensor, so tomorrow I'm gonna change the crank sensor.
My truck runs good for a little while - and then throws this code, runs like a stalling diesel, then shuts off.
I am wondering how your engine ran before you changed these things?
well i changed the cam position sensor and that fixed it. it was running smooth when you have the rpm's up but rough idle otherwise
Well done mate :-)), i knew you would get to the bottom of it :-)
Yes i also thought it would be a shame to waste the old one without having a try at replacing the sensor part, then you will have crank and cam sensor as spares :-)
I suppose thats the problem with generic obd2 codes, not quite specific enough, but better than a kick up the jacksie ha ha :-)
The car has claimed your spanner as a light snack :)
may have but unless that wrench is out on the road somewhere i am going back in after it again with the magnetic extention or my little spring loaded claw grabber tool i have one of them should be able to pull it out just fine if i can just see it first :o) and yeah it would have been more easy of a repair if i had just been able to tell it was the Camshaft position sensor that had the problem in the first place but i at least got away with less than $100.00 total for the repair, a shop would have raked me over the coals on this repair.
DaddytechEnt
Yep i agree jim, repaired on a budget, well worth doing :-))
of coarse a missing rotor screw would throw timing off completely (truck would run like shit if at all and give you a p1345... a new rotor and cap with a good cam sensor should fix problem..your crank sensor was still fine... there are videos on you tube that shows how to test them...
Gracias desde mexico
did you put it top dead center before install distributor?
no i put it right back in the exact way i took it out with a new cam position sensor in it and all is good.
What did that part cost you.?
+MyREDTAIL the sensor it's self was only like $20.00 since my distributor rolled around like it did i got a new distributor too while i was at it. I believe the distributor cost me like $48.00 with a new Camshaft position sensor on it already
where did you get the distributor mine was 105$ lol
BTBBruhh ebay!
oh ok i got mine from oreilly, when i put my new one in it gave me the p1345 code to i did somthing wrong
no that code is for the Cam position sensor and also the crank position sensor both. if you replaced the crank sensor and are still getting the code it's the cam sensor the one typically mounted under the rotor button in the distributor. the crank sensor is way cheaper but the cam sensor is more commonly the problem from what i've seen. that's what fixed mine too is replacing the cam sensor.
*Hi james*
hello
i hope you didnt do all that work before just putting a new screw in the rotor.
the rotor button was screwed and the code was there even with putting the new rotor button on the distributor. i thought about that one too before i went to all the trouble of yanking the old one out. actually the old distributor is back in it again now because the new one was for the 6 litre and it didn't sit right in the block but the cam position sensor was the same so i just swapped that out and haven't had a problem again since then.
My 96 is acting up with the cam and crank code set. Going to pop in a new crank sensor first even yhou I have read distributors are a big issue with these vortecs.
not really a BIG issue but they do have their challenges and they are a little more Frequent than my trucks with the HEI setup , i have one that has almost 300,000 miles on it with the same distributor. and for that matter my wife's Suburban does have 300,000 on it (98 vortec 350 ) with the original distributor in it also. so i guess it's touch and go either they work great for ever or you have an occasional issue with them no in between
Mine started giving me some studders than wouldn't start at all and went I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge to start the diagnosis it fired right up. Not its back to spuddering sometimes and threw up the 1345 code for crank/ cam.
have you tried replacing the fuel filter on it? i had a similar issue like this when my fuel pump went out too same symptoms and i don't wish having to change a tahoe fuel pump out on ANYONE that was not fun times at all.
i thought ur son was drivin the bird?
he was, then i bought it off of him for $500.00 he was going to scrap it but he would have only gotten $300.00 for it that way
teach me how to chevy lol
yeah you're a Ford guy, you need to learn how to Chevy in the worst way
great vid!
+L. Brown (L.B) thank you, hope it helped