I found a cheap one for 900 dollars. It works almost the same principle, but maybe a small evaporator and condenser so it's less cooling but keeps me alive for sure. These are a life saver. A must have, specially for sleep and rest.
Tim, Thx! Very encouraging. I'm so pleased to see more modern Heat Pump systems. Most RV still uses 1970's tech for AC. I wish all RVs came with heat pump systems! Cheers, Eric
Many do. In fact its so popular that most RV makers ante up the few extra dollars to provide better sales. Check it out. 1970's tech is the same as 2024 tech when it comes to refrigerant systems.
@Chris-ut6eq Oh, okay! Thanks for the clarification! This old tech really really needs to change. Currently, I use the ecoflow wave 2 for moderate needs, but I'd love a retrofit for roof mounted systems to replace such inefficient systems.
@@erickessler6094 Depending on your vehicle can consider looking for ductless mini-split systems which are in the 8-12k BTU range. But these would be for larger vehicles. A few years ago, saw someone who mounted a highly efficient system on this rear driver door, but he did a good bit of customization for the mounts. Also keep in mind if you are driving off-road the vibrations will shorten the life of any system not specifically designed for them.
Great video and some real quality work. I did cringe when you used a pliers on the A.C. fittings though. I also NEVER have a positive and a negative battery cable touching. Fine for now but what happens in 10 years of slight movement and vibration. Probably low risk but in a risk matrix you never do low risk if it has catastrophic results.
Tim and Katie ... EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT ... thank you for such a good and thorough installation/review. Currently I have a roof mounted a/c, when it no longer works, I'll switch to an undermount unit which will provide more solar panel roof space. Never have enough solar panels, for sure.
Fuckin mice. I don't have a van or RV, but I have an old car I like to keep mouse and bug free. I just started growing mint all around the outside garage. With any extra I would spread the leaves inside the garage around the car and dryer sheets inside the car. Been mouse and bug free for years.
When tightening those fittings on the evaporator and condensing unit you NEED to be using a backup stop wrench to keep from cracking the line. You also need to be using a flare wrench or at lease a crescent wrench.
This was very helpful since the unit I bought has no instructions at all. Since I am using it in a vehicle that never came with AC and is more than 50 years young, I am going to have to come up with a condenser that fits in the available space or make some space above the rear transaxle and in front of the engine by sacrificing the rear package space. The evaporator can be the same as that in a similar sized car for an under dash mounting. what I found helpful was the addition of an extra battery. I planned on installing a larger alternator output of 105A and with the dedicated battery for the AC compressor, the higher alternator output should take car of the dual batteries.
It’s kinda ridiculous that none of the installation videos even talk about the alternators requirement and the possible addition of a secondary battery. The wording and alternator will be the make or break thing for the installation.
Hi! Our actual calculated EER is 15.07 using actual Testo measurement tools and a test chamber (16,128BTU/h @ 1070W). I suspect whomever you are quoting on the higher EER numbers is not actually providing you with test reports or instrument measurements the way we do on our learn more page. All the best from UndermountAC.
@@undermountac Actually they are more like 21 seer 2 rating which is lower than the original seer rating system. I've been designing refrigerant systems as an engineer for over 40 years. I doubt you have that class of expertise. Use of inverters, as I'm sure you know, allow the makers to produce much higher seers than 20 years ago with single speed motors. DC fans and compressor can be tweaked to produce ratings this high and in time, with even better refrigerants, better yet.
Great job. 47kWp, 7 tons of high efficiency heat pumps. It’s interesting everyone that bashes you for spending YOUR money on that…all while they’ll blow $80k on a truck or boat, $20k on vacations or weddings, fill their garages, outbuildings and storage rentals full of s%it.
I'm in the power wash business, and there's a cool seal for bulkheads called UNI-SEAL... They sell them as small as 1/2". If I were you I would run those where you have the holes in the metal so the wires don't get cut over time
Thanks for this video! I've been considering this system and it's extremely helpful to see how everything comes together so that I can better visualize the space requirements and potential locations. Much appreciated!
dear gawd do NOT buy this system , you'll bang your head on concrete and your wife will divorce you. it's junk. Buy a Dometic Roof unit or setup a tiny prefilled mini split ... Many options for half the price with 4x the longevity and performance per dollar.
I got excited seeing this, as it seems like a no brainer location in terms of moving weight lower in the van and freeing up solar room. I saw the price at almost $4000 though, and my jaw dropped. Disappointing as it's fundamentally not more complex than a 12V roof unit.
Nice install, very expensive. This would be great for highway only travel. For dirt roads or mud, probably not so good. You can mount a 12 volt mini split one one of the rear doors. My mini split only pulls 785 watts on the economy setting. Excellent video, well done 👍
Im not trying to 'hate' but...how does it do offroad in wet, muddy, dry, dusty, rockey and rainy conditions? Having the evaporator/condenser under the vehicle seems like it would need constant cleaning and inspection to keep the unit functioning when you need it to. Not to mention the rock guard seems pretty flimsy for its location behind the axle.
It doesn't do well. What about snow that's deep. There will be drag on the unit. And for something as sensitiveas an a/c component, the last thing you want it physical contact with anything but air, especially not a high rates of speed. The under side unit will get wet, things will hit it, and snow would be a complete drag on the unit. i am completely skeptical about this unit, and its ridiculous price, when better tech is available for (in the case of mistubishit mini splits) 1/2 the price. you can even go less reliable and warranty with other units for 1/4 the price. This looks like a $500.00 unit, but it it 8x more expensive.
Next tine an idea.. when 3d printing a t or something, design a mounting hole and offset boss to screw it directly to the wall with enough backspacing to clear the clamps. Also,when tightening the expansion valve line,always hold it with a wrench.they are brittle. Just my little ideas. Which are easy to do from behind my phone! Very nice and organized wiring job. And install quality!
won't rocks and road debris beat up that AC condenser being under the van/? what about it being a big sail down there pushing against the winds when on the freeway.
I would have mounted high to pull heat in the cold air is on the floor and with fresh water tank i would have run evap drain lines to water tank and captured a gallon of water or more per day depending on humidity levels. My system is 24v and totally powered by batteries with enough solar to be totally electric and captured water is used with a small amout of clorox to tank every refill and run through a water softner with charcoal filters
Hi. Thank you so much for the video! I have the same unit but the dryer portals are not obvious for me. Can you send a picture of the in/out dryer portals?🙏🏽
Yeah, people like this are totally crazy but I suspect a lot of them are given these products for free in hopes that they can convince us to throw money in the trash buying their overpriced products.
Very nice! The only thing I would say is that you might have given your self a little more slack in the lines for expansion and contraction. There were a couple in the video that looked a little tight in an application that will shift and move. Can you please post an update after the first year?
I'm just wrapping up my install now. Did you put anything around the wire bundle splitting into the fuse block with the compressor to add additional protection from road grime and water?
Tim - thanks for your amazingly detailed video! I have had the unit for my 144" Sprinter for a while but just getting around to doing the final startup as I had to make some custom mounting solution. What type of 2" hose did you use and how did you attach it to the evaporator - any special clips to keep them in place?
@@TimKatie I was looking for this info as well. Do you happen to have a link to the louvered vents that you purchased? Everyting I find is smaller than 2.5". Is it ok to clamp the 2.5" hose down to 2"?
Wow. You put the Compressor right in Front of your condenser. Why not on a side. ? Yes it will still get air while moving, but the heat also will blow into it and some blockage of air flow
I have a 2023 Thor Sequence 20J based on a Ram Promaster. It has a top mounted 120 volt A/C that is way too high above the roof (won't slip under my 9' garage door!). Also, this thing is loud! Do you think I can install this unit on my rig?
Not when you're 'johnny-handy' jury rigging an installation I doubt a short run though will produce much damage but the compressor relies on returning refrigerant to remove heat from the motor windings.
As with any refrigerant system, it's better to use soft copper line sets rather than rubber hose. The molecules of refrigerant can penetrate the rubber and leak out. This gets more prone to do so with age. Rubber is provided by manufacturer to get johnny-handy to buy in with the promise of easier installation, however the issues begin after the warranty is up. Soft copper can be fitted with not much more difficulty than the cheesy rubber hoses.
And yet the rubber hoses on my cars AC seem to be fine, and when I had it checked it was full- at 20 years and over 300k miles. Meaning, modern rubber hoses with the lining, chemistry, etc., don't leak and fail in just a couple years like you suggest. Not saying copper isn't still better, but flaring/sweating/etc. are a bit out of some DIY-ers skill set. Also, copper lines are subject to vibration and work hardening, leading to cracking in mobile applications. Which may be why you don't see any OEMs using copper lines.
I have Houghton 9500 btu on my roof, 600 amps of lithium, 3 DC to DC Victron 30 amps each, 250 amps alternator, sleep from 8:00 pm to around 7: am, remains 37 % in the morning. If you ever go to Baja, California, or Alaska with that unit underbody, that will be a disaster.
I don't understand what prevents you from having all kinds of problems with a clogged up condenser and even damage from rocks and things by mounting it underneath like that. Even if it was driven only on the highway that just doesn't sound safe.
This is one muddy drive down a dirt road from being completely pooched. I don't really get it. That compact form factor would be so much better on the door or just cantilevered off the rear of the roof in a mount or something.
Surprising. And also noisy. The evaporator and condensor both look tiny, how many btu's or what size van are they for? I'm also surprised the condensor can get enough airfow when it is didewsys like that.
I don't know why this is so expensive do the company not like money? If they would stop their short sighted desire for money and sell this closer to a realistic number like 2k they would have 4x as many customers if not more. They would make so much more in the long run. I never understand why companies take this route. Maybe because they can't scale so maximizing what they can produce/sell? Rooftop or mini splits are so much cheaper it makes this option only for youtubers that get it for free.
The components and parts required for a high quality product far exceed your "realistic number" at manufactured cost. Our system is designed to last long term under severe duty with a 2 year warranty.
I think you got a good reply from the company in answer to your question. There's a big difference between a company making a high quality product exactly as good as it needs to be with top quality components versus a company just repackaging cheap crap from China and selling lots of them for a profit.
Im trying to use this in my classic truck because in Texas if i let the 454cu engine idle it burns about 12 gals of fuel a night and risk overheating engine. I hope this works great. Wish i could afford a Mercedes sprinter lol no thanks
Looks like a plumbing and wiring nightmare draws a lot of current! Does not explain how the power distribution works is it running off barttery 12v amps?? How is battery charged?? Solar with inverter ???. Is it a totally 12v system powered by battery at night and how is it powered during day? How much is this system kit and extras needed to complete the job ducting fuses etc wiring cables ie all the stuff that is not oart of the KIT. How much is 800 amp battery and what type? Wouldn't it be simpler to run an AC aircon system comnercial off a generator at night and dat when camped???
Having followed the link to seller site, I was shocked at the price $3.7k+ this is a complete ripoff. I'm a refrigeration engineer living in Ireland, have a Citroen relay campervan without dash AC. When I saw this unit being installed it ticked so many boxes for me, but, not at this price. Even for those living in the US, if you self install your still going to pay an extra $700 -$1000 to have the system gassed and commissioned. I suspect you wouldn't be doing this install if you had to pay the full price. This is a joke at the current price.
@@HectorFabela-k6uIn Canada as a consumer you can still buy, 12, 22, 134 and 1234(not sure if that’s the same as 134 or not) at the auto parts stores, in Alberta anyway… everyone says we’re bad for the environment until they want money 😂
I love the concept, but the price point is astronomically high for the components/design. 2600$ would still leave a 20% margin. they need a sell on this concept so it can get out of the niche class and into mainstream sales.
Seems to me, that the very best a/c compressor design, would be to use a wankel rotary engine design, that style compressor would last forever, since the refrigerant oil circulates with the freon, so the seals would last forever, but you would get more refrigerant flow and compression with that type of motor, at less weight to size ratio, with higher efficiency of the rotary, than a piston style pump. 🤠👍
I appreciate the detailed installation video, but $3700 for this equipment is highway robbery. These components can be sourced for much less. There is a lady that installed a unit like this for $700 and in her second year review on TH-cam, its still working great.
I don't understand why someone would go to all the trouble to install an AC unit, when you have a dash AC that came with your vehicle. My Sprinter van is powered by a diesel engine and we just let it idle at night so we can run the dash AC. It burns about 1.2 gallons of fuel during an 8 hour period. We also use it to keep our house batteries charged if the sun is not shining to let the solar panels do their job. Our sprinter van came with a 200 AMP alternator that recharges our house batteries fairly quickly. I would imagine if this couple had to drop $4000 on this AC unit, we wouldn't being seeing this review......
I have a 2016 low-roof NCV3 4x4 Sprinter that was originally a cargo van with a partition. I also live in Texas, where summers are routinely 100*+. I'll be installing a split unit auxillary AC because the dash system simply doesn't cut it, rear of the cabin is an oven once Spring turns to Sunmer. I picked up the Undermount AC late last year, and will be installing it within the next month or so.
Why would you put that many hours on your engine idling it for that long? That is what I can’t understand, the wear and tear, I would much rather install an AC unit.
@@ritarooevans1897 Because it's a caterpillar truck engine, letting them idle doesn't hurt them, look at all the semi drivers that let their trucks idle all night so they can run the AC or heat.
Looks super sketchy and undersized for that van. And at that price, you could purchase top of the mitsubishi mini-splits units, 2 of them actually. This compressor also only has 3 speeds, most modern mini splits either have 5 speeds and some are infinitely variable, thus able to be extremely efficient. And how long will something like this last if it is is the dirtiest, most debris ridden place like the undercarriage of a truck? Something just isn't right here, maybe im wrong, but at least i am precise enough to be super sketpical. This looks like an old design with inefficiencies that make it have to be expensive.
I found a cheap one for 900 dollars. It works almost the same principle, but maybe a small evaporator and condenser so it's less cooling but keeps me alive for sure. These are a life saver. A must have, specially for sleep and rest.
just replace the factory van ac compressor with a 12v one
@@MrBlaze256 What if your van doesn't have AC??? Makes it difficult huh
Tim,
Thx! Very encouraging. I'm so pleased to see more modern Heat Pump systems. Most RV still uses 1970's tech for AC. I wish all RVs came with heat pump systems!
Cheers,
Eric
Many do. In fact its so popular that most RV makers ante up the few extra dollars to provide better sales. Check it out. 1970's tech is the same as 2024 tech when it comes to refrigerant systems.
This looks like standard split AC not heat pump. Looked up info on undermount site and this is NOT a heat pump. Just a magic 12v AC, very old tech.
@Chris-ut6eq Oh, okay! Thanks for the clarification! This old tech really really needs to change. Currently, I use the ecoflow wave 2 for moderate needs, but I'd love a retrofit for roof mounted systems to replace such inefficient systems.
@Chris-ut6eq haha, maybe someone will find a couple of wrecked Tesla Model Y's and remove the heatpump systems and install them in a RV. 👍
@@erickessler6094 Depending on your vehicle can consider looking for ductless mini-split systems which are in the 8-12k BTU range. But these would be for larger vehicles. A few years ago, saw someone who mounted a highly efficient system on this rear driver door, but he did a good bit of customization for the mounts. Also keep in mind if you are driving off-road the vibrations will shorten the life of any system not specifically designed for them.
Clean build! I've worked on luxury yachts and your electrical looks just as good honestly.
Thank you! That means a lot
Great video and some real quality work. I did cringe when you used a pliers on the A.C. fittings though. I also NEVER have a positive and a negative battery cable touching. Fine for now but what happens in 10 years of slight movement and vibration. Probably low risk but in a risk matrix you never do low risk if it has catastrophic results.
Tim and Katie ... EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT ... thank you for such a good and thorough installation/review. Currently I have a roof mounted a/c, when it no longer works, I'll switch to an undermount unit which will provide more solar panel roof space. Never have enough solar panels, for sure.
Thank you, James. We’re happy to hear you found it helpful!
Tip - use coarse steel wool to fill the gaps in the conduit as mice detest it and will not chew on it to gain entry.
Extra tip: Steel wool rust super quickly. Brass wool doesn't rust.
@rando7th extra extra tip brass corodes. Although it does produce a protective film initially over time exposed to vibration or debris it will fail
I would just use duct seal compound, stays pliable to remove if ever needed.
@rando7th I did that..they ate the wood around it in my RV lol
Fuckin mice.
I don't have a van or RV, but I have an old car I like to keep mouse and bug free. I just started growing mint all around the outside garage. With any extra I would spread the leaves inside the garage around the car and dryer sheets inside the car. Been mouse and bug free for years.
When tightening those fittings on the evaporator and condensing unit you NEED to be using a backup stop wrench to keep from cracking the line. You also need to be using a flare wrench or at lease a crescent wrench.
Can you describe how to use a backup stop wrench in this scenario? I haven't used one before.
This was very helpful since the unit I bought has no instructions at all. Since I am using it in a vehicle that never came with AC and is more than 50 years young, I am going to have to come up with a condenser that fits in the available space or make some space above the rear transaxle and in front of the engine by sacrificing the rear package space. The evaporator can be the same as that in a similar sized car for an under dash mounting. what I found helpful was the addition of an extra battery. I planned on installing a larger alternator output of 105A and with the dedicated battery for the AC compressor, the higher alternator output should take car of the dual batteries.
It’s kinda ridiculous that none of the installation videos even talk about the alternators requirement and the possible addition of a secondary battery. The wording and alternator will be the make or break thing for the installation.
Thank you for this video! I just got this for my transit and am going to be using this video every step the way, huge help
I love how clean you try and make your installs. Great work
These have a 13.3 EER. 48VDC mini splits are available elsewhere with 19-20 EER for $500-800.
Hi! Our actual calculated EER is 15.07 using actual Testo measurement tools and a test chamber (16,128BTU/h @ 1070W). I suspect whomever you are quoting on the higher EER numbers is not actually providing you with test reports or instrument measurements the way we do on our learn more page. All the best from UndermountAC.
@@undermountac Actually they are more like 21 seer 2 rating which is lower than the original seer rating system. I've been designing refrigerant systems as an engineer for over 40 years. I doubt you have that class of expertise. Use of inverters, as I'm sure you know, allow the makers to produce much higher seers than 20 years ago with single speed motors. DC fans and compressor can be tweaked to produce ratings this high and in time, with even better refrigerants, better yet.
@@aday1637 Where do you get such a unit? Does it have a heat pump?
Great job. 47kWp, 7 tons of high efficiency heat pumps. It’s interesting everyone that bashes you for spending YOUR money on that…all while they’ll blow $80k on a truck or boat, $20k on vacations or weddings, fill their garages, outbuildings and storage rentals full of s%it.
I can’t believe that will survive underneath and behind the rear tires. The first time I drove down a gravel road it would be over.
Yeh this is what I don't get, surely it just gets completely covered in dirt or screwed if you go through water?!
Yes and snow and ice buildup would be my worry.
I'm in the power wash business, and there's a cool seal for bulkheads called UNI-SEAL... They sell them as small as 1/2". If I were you I would run those where you have the holes in the metal so the wires don't get cut over time
Thanks for this video! I've been considering this system and it's extremely helpful to see how everything comes together so that I can better visualize the space requirements and potential locations. Much appreciated!
dear gawd do NOT buy this system , you'll bang your head on concrete and your wife will divorce you. it's junk. Buy a Dometic Roof unit or setup a tiny prefilled mini split ... Many options for half the price with 4x the longevity and performance per dollar.
awesome work bro!!!
I got excited seeing this, as it seems like a no brainer location in terms of moving weight lower in the van and freeing up solar room. I saw the price at almost $4000 though, and my jaw dropped. Disappointing as it's fundamentally not more complex than a 12V roof unit.
Nice install, very expensive.
This would be great for highway only travel. For dirt roads or mud, probably not so good. You can mount a 12 volt mini split one one of the rear doors. My mini split only pulls 785 watts on the economy setting.
Excellent video, well done 👍
Im not trying to 'hate' but...how does it do offroad in wet, muddy, dry, dusty, rockey and rainy conditions? Having the evaporator/condenser under the vehicle seems like it would need constant cleaning and inspection to keep the unit functioning when you need it to. Not to mention the rock guard seems pretty flimsy for its location behind the axle.
It doesn't do well. What about snow that's deep. There will be drag on the unit. And for something as sensitiveas an a/c component, the last thing you want it physical contact with anything but air, especially not a high rates of speed. The under side unit will get wet, things will hit it, and snow would be a complete drag on the unit.
i am completely skeptical about this unit, and its ridiculous price, when better tech is available for (in the case of mistubishit mini splits) 1/2 the price. you can even go less reliable and warranty with other units for 1/4 the price.
This looks like a $500.00 unit, but it it 8x more expensive.
Next tine an idea.. when 3d printing a t or something, design a mounting hole and offset boss to screw it directly to the wall with enough backspacing to clear the clamps. Also,when tightening the expansion valve line,always hold it with a wrench.they are brittle. Just my little ideas. Which are easy to do from behind my phone! Very nice and organized wiring job. And install quality!
Thank you for sharing the video with us , YOU should spray couple layer of UNDER COATING . I know this video is 3 months old ..!!
Thank you for a good and informative video!
Thanks for the updated video Tim. You mention using either a 120A or 150A circuit breaker. Why did you choose to install a 150A breaker?
won't rocks and road debris beat up that AC condenser being under the van/? what about it being a big sail down there pushing against the winds when on the freeway.
what is the btu?
what haooeb wheb going thru a river or a 100 km dirt dirt road south of the border?
I would have mounted high to pull heat in the cold air is on the floor and with fresh water tank i would have run evap drain lines to water tank and captured a gallon of water or more per day depending on humidity levels. My system is 24v and totally powered by batteries with enough solar to be totally electric and captured water is used with a small amout of clorox to tank every refill and run through a water softner with charcoal filters
Very nice install
Hi. Thank you so much for the video! I have the same unit but the dryer portals are not obvious for me. Can you send a picture of the in/out dryer portals?🙏🏽
WOW! $3700. I got a 12 volt for my truck under $500 12k to keep me cool while driving!
Yeah, people like this are totally crazy but I suspect a lot of them are given these products for free in hopes that they can convince us to throw money in the trash buying their overpriced products.
Which one did buy? I am looking for one for my husbands Nissan that doesn't have AC
Chinese from eBay ?
@bobbieblair59 no longer on ebay but all are made from like 10 factories over there
@@bobbieblair59buy a coolzy pro
Very nice! The only thing I would say is that you might have given your self a little more slack in the lines for expansion and contraction. There were a couple in the video that looked a little tight in an application that will shift and move. Can you please post an update after the first year?
Awesome my name is Martin I love you guys video thanks so much for shared 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😊
What’s protecting all of those wires and hoses underneath the vehicle from rodents, mechanical damage, etc.?
Awesome job! Thanks for sharing
Dometic 12 volt is a beast ice cold
Hello, I drive a mini camper. Yours is a very cool car.
KATIE sighting at 22:47 she's like an automotive Vanna White. 😂
I'm just wrapping up my install now. Did you put anything around the wire bundle splitting into the fuse block with the compressor to add additional protection from road grime and water?
Tim - thanks for your amazingly detailed video! I have had the unit for my 144" Sprinter for a while but just getting around to doing the final startup as I had to make some custom mounting solution. What type of 2" hose did you use and how did you attach it to the evaporator - any special clips to keep them in place?
I used standard automotive 2.5″ Flexible Duct Hose and attached them to the evaporator with SS hose clamps
@@TimKatie I was looking for this info as well. Do you happen to have a link to the louvered vents that you purchased? Everyting I find is smaller than 2.5". Is it ok to clamp the 2.5" hose down to 2"?
If it was possible to mount horizontally it would be better, I can see this getting knocked off if you are partial to a bit of trail camping.
150 for thermostat?) these guys are wild
Like the content
Question for you how can I wire one of these units to a generator that’s about the only way I can get power to my Semi Truck.
Wow. You put the Compressor right in Front of your condenser. Why not on a side. ? Yes it will still get air while moving, but the heat also will blow into it and some blockage of air flow
Have u installed these in last gen econolines?
I have a 2023 Thor Sequence 20J based on a Ram Promaster. It has a top mounted 120 volt A/C that is way too high above the roof (won't slip under my 9' garage door!). Also, this thing is loud! Do you think I can install this unit on my rig?
Condensers below the
van means it will catch lots of dirt and choke the same ?
No insulation on the cold air ducts ?
Considering using this system for our grooming vans. Do you think this cools a considerable amount better than a roof mounted AC?
Why not use expanding foam to seal the pipes into/out of the floor?
Can you install this on the roof instead, provided it’s somewhat protected from the elements?
Did you consider getting the heat capable model?
At the time Tim and Katie were purchasing this unit we had not released our heat capable kit with valving just yet unfortunately.
Did I miss something? Pump down and test for leaks , weigh in the charge and fill with proper coolant? This is done before any power up.
Not when you're 'johnny-handy' jury rigging an installation I doubt a short run though will produce much damage but the compressor relies on returning refrigerant to remove heat from the motor windings.
he ran the fans before which is perfectly fine. if you finished video he tested for leaks/vacuum
Are there any Wi-Fi control thermostats that this can connect to
Does this have a heat pump mode or option?
How loud is that compressor under the bed?🧐
Can the outside section be mounted vertically?
every time you used the channel locks my soul died a little.
Love the shop song rehab lol
Great Video! Audio needs a little work in the beginning but the rest is an amazing video!
As with any refrigerant system, it's better to use soft copper line sets rather than rubber hose. The molecules of refrigerant can penetrate the rubber and leak out. This gets more prone to do so with age. Rubber is provided by manufacturer to get johnny-handy to buy in with the promise of easier installation, however the issues begin after the warranty is up. Soft copper can be fitted with not much more difficulty than the cheesy rubber hoses.
And yet the rubber hoses on my cars AC seem to be fine, and when I had it checked it was full- at 20 years and over 300k miles. Meaning, modern rubber hoses with the lining, chemistry, etc., don't leak and fail in just a couple years like you suggest. Not saying copper isn't still better, but flaring/sweating/etc. are a bit out of some DIY-ers skill set.
Also, copper lines are subject to vibration and work hardening, leading to cracking in mobile applications. Which may be why you don't see any OEMs using copper lines.
Hmmm. Seems a copper line set would be superior in this application. Simple enough when the e coil is like a 24” run from the compressor.
Except every single MVHVAC system I have seen has rubber hoses in the system. And those hoses are crimped to aluminum, not copper.
I believe adding a plain washer against a lock washer renders the locking ineffective.
Will this work on a 1960’s pickup truck?
These 12 volt systems make me wonder if you could direct connect it to solar panels an run with enough wattage and sun saving battery power?
I have Houghton 9500 btu on my roof, 600 amps of lithium, 3 DC to DC Victron 30 amps each, 250 amps alternator, sleep from 8:00 pm to around 7: am, remains 37 % in the morning. If you ever go to Baja, California, or Alaska with that unit underbody, that will be a disaster.
Better to roof mount for sure. It's the reason RV makers put them there.
why?
Instead of adding the $40 resistor for the fans, couldn't you just use a lower fan speed for the exact same result?
Great video, I recommend you not to put together the in and out pipe because you are losing efficiency having them in contact
I don't understand what prevents you from having all kinds of problems with a clogged up condenser and even damage from rocks and things by mounting it underneath like that. Even if it was driven only on the highway that just doesn't sound safe.
But it sounds good to 'johnny-handy'.
That areas usually surprisingly clean under most vehicles, especially if they have wheel arch liners.
Good video. But I didn't see you pull a vacuum on the system or change the system with Freon?
This is one muddy drive down a dirt road from being completely pooched. I don't really get it. That compact form factor would be so much better on the door or just cantilevered off the rear of the roof in a mount or something.
6:20-6:25 orb floating around 😮
Surprising. And also noisy. The evaporator and condensor both look tiny, how many btu's or what size van are they for?
I'm also surprised the condensor can get enough airfow when it is didewsys like that.
When the van tour is coming
What kind of battery you are using how many kW and amp😂
I don't know why this is so expensive do the company not like money? If they would stop their short sighted desire for money and sell this closer to a realistic number like 2k they would have 4x as many customers if not more. They would make so much more in the long run. I never understand why companies take this route. Maybe because they can't scale so maximizing what they can produce/sell? Rooftop or mini splits are so much cheaper it makes this option only for youtubers that get it for free.
The components and parts required for a high quality product far exceed your "realistic number" at manufactured cost. Our system is designed to last long term under severe duty with a 2 year warranty.
I think you got a good reply from the company in answer to your question. There's a big difference between a company making a high quality product exactly as good as it needs to be with top quality components versus a company just repackaging cheap crap from China and selling lots of them for a profit.
Why make more for less when you can sit back and sell a few and make more?
~ 14 hrs on 10 kwh ... thats a lot of power for keeping cool.
Im trying to use this in my classic truck because in Texas if i let the 454cu engine idle it burns about 12 gals of fuel a night and risk overheating engine. I hope this works great. Wish i could afford a Mercedes sprinter lol no thanks
I would have wrapped everything in protective cable sleeves.
Where are you located?
Looks like a plumbing and wiring nightmare draws a lot of current! Does not explain how the power distribution works is it running off barttery 12v amps?? How is battery charged?? Solar with inverter ???. Is it a totally 12v system powered by battery at night and how is it powered during day? How much is this system kit and extras needed to complete the job ducting fuses etc wiring cables ie all the stuff that is not oart of the KIT. How much is 800 amp battery and what type? Wouldn't it be simpler to run an AC aircon system comnercial off a generator at night and dat when camped???
I dont understand the Channel, 8 Month ago you show your finished van, and no videos after it of traveling or something !?
Having followed the link to seller site, I was shocked at the price $3.7k+ this is a complete ripoff. I'm a refrigeration engineer living in Ireland, have a Citroen relay campervan without dash AC. When I saw this unit being installed it ticked so many boxes for me, but, not at this price. Even for those living in the US, if you self install your still going to pay an extra $700 -$1000 to have the system gassed and commissioned. I suspect you wouldn't be doing this install if you had to pay the full price. This is a joke at the current price.
In the US, we can vacuum and charge our own cars. We can buy R134a at the store.
Thing is still overpriced. @@HectorFabela-k6u
@user-lm9gs5vt1q and the newer stuff too...r130yz or whatever the name
Do you know of a cheaper alternative? Also in ireland and looking for motorhome AC
@@HectorFabela-k6uIn Canada as a consumer you can still buy, 12, 22, 134 and 1234(not sure if that’s the same as 134 or not) at the auto parts stores, in Alberta anyway… everyone says we’re bad for the environment until they want money 😂
Really cool! pun intended
I love the concept, but the price point is astronomically high for the components/design. 2600$ would still leave a 20% margin. they need a sell on this concept so it can get out of the niche class and into mainstream sales.
Price is insane.
Nice but is $5100. in Canada.
Seems to me, that the very best a/c compressor design, would be to use a wankel rotary engine design, that style compressor would last forever, since the refrigerant oil circulates with the freon, so the seals would last forever, but you would get more refrigerant flow and compression with that type of motor, at less weight to size ratio, with higher efficiency of the rotary, than a piston style pump. 🤠👍
Most ac systems are a rotary piston design using a swash plate....like literally 99% of them are in mobile applications like this.
I appreciate the detailed installation video, but $3700 for this equipment is highway robbery. These components can be sourced for much less. There is a lady that installed a unit like this for $700 and in her second year review on TH-cam, its still working great.
They're under $500 now on eBay. 👍
$3, 500 kit?😵💫
They are smoked out for that price considering China has the exact same kit for like 300 bucks that works just as well
$300 exactly the same? No way. Show me a China kit exactly like this for even a $1000. I'll wait.
@@sportcoupe2Man just go on Alibaba and type in 12 volt universal electric air conditioner.
I don't understand why someone would go to all the trouble to install an AC unit, when you have a dash AC that came with your vehicle. My Sprinter van is powered by a diesel engine and we just let it idle at night so we can run the dash AC. It burns about 1.2 gallons of fuel during an 8 hour period. We also use it to keep our house batteries charged if the sun is not shining to let the solar panels do their job. Our sprinter van came with a 200 AMP alternator that recharges our house batteries fairly quickly. I would imagine if this couple had to drop $4000 on this AC unit, we wouldn't being seeing this review......
Do that around other campers and you’re going to wake up with 4 flat tires. 😂
The ford isn’t diesel. These are about $1000, not 4. Running your engine at night alone in the outback is fine but not really around other people.
I have a 2016 low-roof NCV3 4x4 Sprinter that was originally a cargo van with a partition. I also live in Texas, where summers are routinely 100*+. I'll be installing a split unit auxillary AC because the dash system simply doesn't cut it, rear of the cabin is an oven once Spring turns to Sunmer.
I picked up the Undermount AC late last year, and will be installing it within the next month or so.
Why would you put that many hours on your engine idling it for that long? That is what I can’t understand, the wear and tear, I would much rather install an AC unit.
@@ritarooevans1897 Because it's a caterpillar truck engine, letting them idle doesn't hurt them, look at all the semi drivers that let their trucks idle all night so they can run the AC or heat.
Yeah, $4000 for AC... My van cost less than that.
From a mechanics perspective....Nice install...but... Complexity=Problems...I just cant see past that..
Did he seriously just install the condenser where the dirt and mud and rocks fly?
I was thinking the same 😂
Why pay $3700 for this when they're selling for under $500 on eBay? 😉
You fitted a garbage quality circuit breaker. That type are known to cause fires as they wont break circuit when overloaded. They tend to melt first.
Looks super sketchy and undersized for that van. And at that price, you could purchase top of the mitsubishi mini-splits units, 2 of them actually. This compressor also only has 3 speeds, most modern mini splits either have 5 speeds and some are infinitely variable, thus able to be extremely efficient. And how long will something like this last if it is is the dirtiest, most debris ridden place like the undercarriage of a truck?
Something just isn't right here, maybe im wrong, but at least i am precise enough to be super sketpical. This looks like an old design with inefficiencies that make it have to be expensive.
Lotta dirt and dust etc gonna clog it up very often
I would have used metal zip ties
Seem like it would take a lot of mud , stones, & anything else on the road or trails
3,699.00 💸💸💸💸💸
Do you want to install mine?
I just don't see it lasting very long underneath the vehicle with all the mud and rocks and dirt that thing would be clogged up in a week's time
Lets see that wholesale price ya greedy hosers//////////
thats a 1000 bucks tops of value...........