I was impressed with this unit and can’t wait to use it once we get the van completed!!! Use our affiliate code MOTM50 for $50 off your order! Velit 12v install and comparison video: th-cam.com/video/m4w3xvWKZXM/w-d-xo.html
To calculate efficiency you basically measure power draw in amps, multiply it by the voltage to get your watts... watts are the only units that mater for DC/AC power calculations for us. Then take the unit's BTUs which are often different for heat vs cool and do the math you end up with BTUs per watt. You cant' tell how efficient something is by comparing amps or volts alone because they aren't units of power. There is only 1-2 units on the market anyway that both heat and cool in a window unit anyway so... it's a midea unit and it only goes down to 40degrees I have one. As long as your 12V unit is a heat pump for heat / cool you are automatically better tha 99% of window units.
I must have missed when you mentioned how much battery you have. I have a 27 ft sailboat I want to fit one of these 12-volt air conditioners in, I have a 280 amp hour lithium iron phosphate battery with just under 400 W solar panels
@@Wingnut353 , amps are important from the purview of wire size. Higher voltage reduces the amps for the same wattage, thus resulting in smaller gauge wire being appropriate, resulting in less efficiency loss in heating up the wires to carry higher current. This is my understanding why AC won over Edison's DC power designs in powering our homes.
The critics need to understand that a standard AC-powered rooftop unit has a single speed compressor and the units are often grossly oversized. When they come on, they run full blast until they reach setpoint and turn the compressor off. As a result they short cycle and don't remove humidity well. Humidity is removed when air passes over the evaporator coil that is below dewpoint. This takes time (long compressor runs). When you have a couple of people in a van who cook, shower and breathe, humidity can be a problem. DC compressors fix this by varying the compressor output to allow the unit compressor to run longer to remove humidity and increase efficiency. Same concept mini splits use. Also around 10% of your battery's energy is wasted passing through an inverter to power the 120 VAC unit. DC is the way to go.
HVAC contractor here. Excellent test. I can’t believe it cooled at all with the roof not insulated. Seems like a good solution to your van life ac needs. Great video thank you.
Something everyone forgets is all that stuff on roof cools down van more than you would expect. I'm doing full time van life in an old Chevy express work van with 2 big solar panels on roof, no insulation inside roof...you can feel huge diff in temp to the touch under panels
Writing this comment when the video is 5 months old. Now that you're further along in the build, can you do a real test of this now that you actually have the walls complete and with 2 people in the van? The big issue where air conditioning becomes necessary is sleeping overnight in a hot, humid environment. How much power do you actually use with 2 people in the van (each generating about 150 watts of heat on average) and a nominal amount of insulation? Assume 10.5 hours of darkness. You'll probably have to wait for a hot night. It's easy enough to do the math for how much power an A/C uses while running, but it's a completely different thing to know how much cooling is actually needed. Knowing those figures would really help the community.
I have a 110 volt traditional unit in my van run through a 3000watt inverter with a large enough battery bank to stay cool overnight. These days I think the 12volt units have proved themselves and though I’m not changing my setup which works fine if I were looking for a unit 12volt seems the way to go nowadays. This is a useful review thank you.
Might look at Mini Splits for RV. They are cheaper. You get a Heater on top of that. All in one unit. And the weight is like 60lbs total for a 9000-12,000 BTU... I seen them mounted on Swing out tire racks. As the lines are flexible. And remember. A watt is a watt. So don't let the voltage make you think there more efficient..That claim comes when they are in Eco Mode with soft start..
We are currently on the road in our van that is equipped with the Velit 12 Volt A/C unit. We used the MOTM code and saved $50.00! Thanks again. The unit is working fine for us and we like it very much. It’s installed over the bed, and we get plenty of air flow to keep us cool. We were in Texas a few weeks ago and at 91 degrees….kept us very comfortable. The one not so good comment…..at night, with the unit directly over our heads, the digital display on the unit is pretty bright….I wish there was a way to dim it! We’re very happy with the AC Unit!
Steve glad you were able to take advantage of the code and thanks for the insight! That’s good feedback about the lights, I can pass that along to Velit for future iterations. That’s definitely going to irritate me as well, I’ll have to tape over it or something!
lol . a LCD display is out smarting you? -enough for it to become a burden.. just put tape over the display. or 5 layers of clear boxing tape. it will refract the bothersome light
Do you think it's underpowered for 100 degree days? I live in California and was considering switching to a 12v. I can't find a video that truly tests during a really hot day.
@@BeyondtheAtomm I live in Florida. I have a Ford Transit, Mid-Roof, 148” wheel base, long…..that I converted into our camper van. My wife and I travel often, and over the course of the past summer, spent many nights in campgrounds where temperatures were 98 and 99 degrees. I feel like we did a decent job of insulating the van, we have insulated window coverings to keep sunlight and heat out of the van. We have Sirocco fan that we use to help move the inside air around in the van. We have a cloth barrier between the living quarters of the van and the cockpit…..this helps to reduce the size of the space we’re trying to cool. With these high temperatures of 98-99 degrees, we were pleased with our Velit 12V AC unit. Usually the inside of our van in the late afternoon, early evening, temps were 18 degrees cooler than the outside temp. During the overnight hours, our temp inside the van would drop to around 68 degrees as the outside temps lowered to 82 or so. We used the AC allot….and we are content with its performance. Our van is smaller than Mather’s Van….the AC works fine for us in our van. I have only 400 Amps of Lithium batteries…..so when temps are hot like this…..we seek a campground with either 15 or 30 amps of service so that we can run the AC on high speed, all evening and all night long. Hope this helps you! Good Luck!
@@Steve-hb3ln Thanks for the reply! Were you only 18 degrees less because you were using eco mode? I'm concerned the unit may be underpowered. I have shore power capabilities but like to travel mostly without it. I'm upgrading my Victron to pull 40amps from my alternator. My current 120AC draws roughly 90amps!!
Once your batteries are fully charged, it might make sense to turn the unit on, and set it to match the solar power you are generating. That way you can pre cool they can a bit without using any of the battery with solar energy that otherwise would go to waste
We just installed our first of these at the shop and it went in really easy especially compared to the dometic, the 14" by 14" cutout matches a Maxx air instead of the dometic's 19" wide hole. Also everything we needed for the install came with the $1600 price tag instead of having to spend an extra $800 on separate wiring and mounting kits. The Dometic is better looking and has a smaller foot print on the roof but Velit made a great unit here and we will be installing these in the future whenever possible.
Today, we installed the same air conditioner for our customers, and the customers are very satisfied. I will share the video of the blogger with him to make him believe in our products more. Thanks to the bloggers for sharing.
The true test would be to use for 1 full week in Mississippi or Florida in 90+ temps and high humidity. Then see the real workout begin on your battery/solar system and monitor statuses for that week.
My friend has a 12v a/c in his Truck camper. Really cool. When he is traveling he keeps it running. So when he gets to where he is going the camper is already cool inside.
if my numbers are correct, after the beach visit the ac unit is over working hard and compressor could be running border line hot, i would check to see if compressor is cycling on and off at least every 30 mins. 30 mins. cooling van, 15 mins compressor off, compressor back on for 30 mins even though companies say continues use duty, engineers will tell you sure, but your cuting the life span of compressor fan greatly. nice video, cool van.
This was excellent. The wife and I are waiting on our first PM 3500 159 ext to come in so we can do a build. I was going to mount a small 5,000-6,000 btu 'window shaker' through a 12 x 16 hole on back (driver's side) door where a window would normally go (no back windows on ours). You've got me really thinking now though. We are putting 660w in panels on the roof but I would have to up my game in batteries to do this Velit. 3000w Victron Inverter. We can't afford (actually 'justify') the two Battleborn 270ah batteries. Was planning on two 200ah lithiums. Not sure if that will be good enough. Great video though!
A small downside to DC AC units is when you want to shore charge your batteries. A lot of your inverter charger's battery charging capacity will be used to run the AC instead of quickly recharging your battery bank.
My only thing is I would not put it above the bed. We have our fan above the bed and the ac in the front. The reason is its LOUD and the fan is pretty strong to get the whole van cooled off. So, if you are laying directly under the AC, you are going to get BLASTED by the cold air and it will be super loud. Imagine laying 2 feet under one of your AC vents in the house all night. Also, in the cooler months, you want the fan above your bed when you are not using the AC for good air flow. But, thats just my 2 cents.
I hear ya Tom! It’s not ideal but it had to go there in order to fit 600 watts of solar on the roof and have a maxx air fan. We could have used multiple different panels (shapes and wattage) to fit a more desired layout but then you’re losing solar efficiency. We also couldn’t put the AC in the front because that’s where the baby is going to sleep and we can’t have them freezing. The good thing is you can position the vents in different directions to push the air a specific way.
Many years ago, I had a komfort trailer that used a 12volt evaporation cooler. If the climate is right (southwest) it works amazingly well. I went to Arizona, and it kept us cool when we needed it most.
For more of a comparison I used a inverter model midea 8000 btu (15 ceer rating) window ac in my short bus with no insulation in 90 degree direct sunlight and it cooled the bus to 74 (felt chilli compared to outside, especially when wet from water fun). unit never went over 700 watts and majority of time was running at sub 400 watts. Left running all day pulling 320~ watts from solar and averaged out as battery (400ah 12v) was still at 90+% at night. It's all anecdotal, but I'd say window AC still is better, look at the power and ratings of the new inverter ones..... and at $350 on sale it's a might cheaper than $1600. Although I must say I'm curious about some of the chinese 12v ones that come with a hidden option which makes it easy to put the condenser fan horizontal under the vehicle, but like most I'm happy with what I have for now. Thanks for taking the time to make the video, sharing is caring :) and I like seeing options and real world examples.
The upfront costs are certainly much higher for a 12v AC. The advantages of 12v drop away if you're planning on having shore power available unlike in your case. Obviously a window AC is still much more suited to a box van or trailer conversion but I could see a market for people using 12v units like yours in off-grid tiny homes too. A lot of trailer conversions mount a window unit on a slide and only run it out when parked and it's in use with maybe a hinged panel covering the opening when is pulled in.
Nicely done! As you say, everyone is entitled to their opinion and what works best for you (size, space, location, cost, etc.) may not be the same for the next person. The only think I would be concerned with is the noise level inside the van when it is running. There are several van-lifers that have put mini split units on a rear door so it is out of the way and it is efficient as well as being quite both inside and outside. Your power system setup looks great. I a looking forward to seeing the van build out!
Indeed, if it works it works. I would prefer a mini split on the back too, and use the extra space on top for 1 or 2 extra solar panels, that would offset the efficiency of the inverter and then some more, while also being easier to find maintenance if it stops working. But at the end of the day it is up to personal preference.
Of course dc is better, but a higher voltage would make for a cheaper set up, I am expecting 48v units will come soon, I am using 24v units and it works just fine and let you use less ridiculously thick wires than 12v. However, insulation is the key in any van/rv setup!
very sensible comment. It's not A/C vs D/C, higher voltage pulls less amps, hence lower cost for wiring, although wattage is the end game for efficiency, but in theory lower voltage will heat those wires more at high current draw, so you are in essence heating your vehicle unless all wires are outside. 18 degrees cooler than outside is nice/better than nothing, but not kicking like A/C powered unit apparently over sized hehheeheheh
@MathersOnTheMap 900 amp hours of lithium. A mini split and 1,200 watts of solar panels. The mini split on the economy setting pulls 389 to 425 watts. The solar panels usually provide 750 - 850 watts along the coast. Sometimes, more in the mountains with less haze, the panels will put out 1,000 to 1,100 watts. This is all during the daytime. At night, the power consumption is a lot less. The van is very insulated and only 4 windows and a bulkhead door. It's mostly about function for winter and desert camping.
I just ordered one, but I didn’t know about your discount code. Oh well. One nice thing about this unit is even if I’m out of batteries my converter will run this with my Honda 2000. We usually have that along when we camp with no power when we’re out dirt biking. If I would have bought a 120v a/c I’d need a bigger generator.
Great video! Very informative and well done! One thing I notice that didn't seem correct is that, if you had 71% of a 540 amp hour battery bank available, and you were only consuming 15 amps, the hours remaining should be more like 25 hours instead of the 3 hours and 30 minutes shown. Perhaps I'm missing something, such at your battery bank is not actually 540 amp hours but something smaller. Or, another notion is that your battery size is not set correctly in your Victron system so it's not calculating your remaining battery power correctly. In any case, looks like you have a GREAT system and it will work well. Thanks again for the great video!
FRFR Im seeing insulate that thang! Just pack the walls with some foam or expanding spray foam and cover the holes with sheets of wood or similar to keep it from expanding inside.
I know the rooftop 12v AC is more efficient than a 120v mini split AC but you could fit an extra solar panel on the roof instead of the rooftop AC and it might make up for it in some use cases possibly.
The eg4 12k btu is 28.5 seer (115v) and is very efficient and can go as low as 200-300 watts in eco and around 500 watts normal running. 12k btu would be way overkill for your van. The eg4 is what i plan to use in my shuttle bus build. The eg4 is about $1,400. There is a 9k btu (29.5 seer) for $1,200.
Ok, so I recently switched from a 120 volt 5k btu unit to a 8775 btu 12 volt unit. The 5k unit consumed 480 watts, however, The 12 volt unit consumes about 430 watts and there isn’t an inverter to also consume energy. 12 volt puts out more btu and uses less energy. It’s a win-win.
Interesting test. Curious how much better it would work when the van is fully insulated? Since the unit is over the bed, it might help to lower power consumption if you have some sort of partition separating the sleeping area from the rest of the van. Creating a smaller area to cool might allow for the AC to run on a lower setting and use less power from your battery bank. Maybe even lengthen the lifetime of the compressor because of working less hard? Just a thought. Good stuff and interesting segment. Thanks for sharing.
I specifically built a partition door for temperature control for my ProMaster. I haven't needed an AC yet as I live in the PNW. However, I can attest to the significant differences partition/insulation make for temperature control.
Here in Japan, the fitting of 12v air conditioners to smaller vans (and I really mean small vans) is becoming a trend. Not every campsite has a 100v hook-up and even if they do, they are limited in number. I would be interested in learning how it deals with high humidity levels as for the majority of regions in Japan, the summers are not only high in temperature (well over 35C), but with humidity levels that exceed 80%, often higher.
@@MathersOnTheMap thanks! We have a sunroof that opens and really only need it to blow not suck. Different speeds? Or just one speed on the fane mode? Thanks again!
Beautiful roof installation. I havemaxair fan and 640 watts of solar and 412 amps of battery. Dont want to lose any solar and looking to swap out the fan for the ac. In your experience do you use the fan much since you have the ac?
I’ve been contemplating these (IMO the regular RV freezers don’t make sense, even though they are cheaper to buy), but lately I’m seeing the Mini Splits now, looking interesting!
If I were to do an A/C for a van, I too would do a mini split hanging on a rear door (as seen on another TH-cam channel) mainly because they are much quieter inside the van.
A Mini Split is the best option for AC\Heat.. As the voltage does not matter. As a Watt is a Watt.. Why they install Watt meters on homes...And you can have a Mini Split Serviced each year...Plus the added benefit of having a heater.. A bonus is you can recover the condensation of the Unit. Which is nothing but distilled water. Most make 5 gallons everyday...You can repurpose that water for showers. Bath Room and Cooking...
when if comes to 120v AC in a van the biggets problem is the inverter unless your running a top of the line inverter there only about 60-80% efficient you can get up to 95ish% but there got a premium price.
Energy efficiency in this case isn't some abstract mythical figure. It can actually be calculated... by using the approximate formula: amps x volts = watts. A 12k btu pioneer mini split is around $750 and consumes less than 600 watts while this is over $2k (for 12k btu output) and as stated on the website consumes 900-1200 watts of energy. A high quality inverter such as your Victron has an efficiency of around 90-95% depending on the current draw. With the Pioneer consuming half as much power while delivering the same cooling btu's as this 12v roof mount, a 5-10% dissipation of power at the inverter level isn't going to justify using a highly inefficient appliance just because it uses 12 volt.
I don't think this is necessarily a bad option.. because efficiency isn't the only thing people might want to consider when choosing an AC, but videos like this are what confuse the hell out of people when they're trying to figure out how electricity works lol
@@avromfarm674 well said avrom, 12V DC is not proven to be better unto itself. Fully depends on the application as well. Mini split should be more efficient simply by virtue of having a larger condenser outside and separate from the evaporator inside the vehicle. It is neat how far these 12V units come, I think they are perfect for older large class A vehicles where upgrading their A/C systems are over the cost of these rooftop units and they are not allowed to idle overnight anyhow, especially in warmer winter areas where an APU may not be as appropriate.
i always figure the btu needed for cooling and because of enviorment conditions double it, 2 units. then youll be safer. insulate the roof and walls of the van.
Great demo. I'd love to see it run again when the van is insulated and windows fitted with reflective covers If used often it would eventually overtake your solar's ability to add juice but if you had B2B charging that would mitigate that power loss.
Be interesting to get an update on this when ur finished ur build, actual vs overall power usage, etc. this is probably a good fit for ur purposes tho there are pro’s & con’s of ac vs dc Airconditioning. I have a 40’ bus on a property with a 24v system, 2.5kw pv, 19kwh lifpo4 Batteries and a 3kw AIO system I use to power a 2.5kw household inverter split AC & it doesn’t use that much power. With a the rear bedroom door closed at night it will ramp ur to about 1500-1600w for 5 minutes or less & then ramp down to 5-600w for another 5 mins & start to cycle using under 100w at times. I left it run all night once and my total consumption was about 110ah @ 24v from a 400Ah bank, it was full charged again before lunch.
Mine came and it’s installed but I haven’t powered it up yet. Looking it over though the first thing I noticed is there’s no filter for the evaporator and nowhere to put one. I’m not sure if you’re supposed to climb up on the roof every month and pull the cover to clean the evap or what. I might have to cut out the grill and fab one in.
Filter question: Is there a filter? How do you change it? Where do you get replacements? With all the smoke in the northeast US this year, I imagine one would need to change the filter regularly. Thanks. td.
In my much smaller van I cut out my battery tray out and installed a giant 155 AH AGM Gel deep cycle as a starter battery and wired to a 2000w inverter under under the driver seat and to my 30a victron controller in the back. I have no other additional house power. On my roof I've got a single 430w solar panel with custom ventilation under it. Even though I'm in humid Florida I don't have house AC in my van, though I've tested running one of those cheap $150 5000btu Home Depot units and my solar provided about 75% of the power needed in full sun which ran for about 4 hours. The idea i had was to have the wall AC vent and drain into the garage that would be ventilated through the back doors without being actually visible from outside. But after thinking about all the challenges and costs, I never did it and instead what I do is simply park under trees crank my fans on high and then crank up my OEM AC when I get in with van running sometimes for hours. Most mechanics will tell you modern engine cooling systems are okay doing this and cops and taxis do it all day long. I've been doing this for 5 years with no issues. One of the questions I will have for future EV vans is how many hours can the OEM AC run off the power train battery pack? I think we will see an EV van in the next 5 years than can run the OEM AC for 10 hours a day for 2 weeks without needing to charge.
i would do a window unit personally, the only reason is cost. i am trying to build a full time living van and i agree your setup is by far the best and makes more sense but it would be way out of my price range unfortunately
I like the look of this Velit AC unit. With the exposed fan on top I wonder how it would handle a foot of snow and ice on top of it. Have you tested it out in freezing conditions? Do they make a cover?
@@MathersOnTheMap , would it be better to have both MaxxAir fan and the Velit? That way you can still vent the van with out using A/C and then just close MaxxAir when using A/C?
Curious, I've seen camper vans using the split AC. Are they somewhere in the middle in terms of efficiency between a full box AC and the 12 volt ac? Kinda curious on how those would fare Boondoxking.
👍 on the air conditioning test run... love using gadgets... perhaps consider a career in the custom van building industry? 🤔 👍on the previous 30 day fitness vlog... as you discovered there is so much more to a workout than free weight and machines... diet is a certainly a key factor, but also finding sources of motivation is equally important... I'm lucky to live with a pro fitness instructor! I know no alcohol, but this Friday is "Cinco de Mayo" 🍹🍺 and I think you both earned a one day reward celebration! We're off to Cabo on Sunday.... ☀🌵🤿😎 Do you offer a Spanish version of "Mathers On the Map" for us folks living south of the border in Baja!! 🤣 Buenas Noches!
Thanks Lee!! I’d agree I think Diet arguably more important than the gym! No Spanish episodes for us haha wish we were fluent though! Enjoy Baja, we’re jealous! Can’t wait to get back there
Higher voltage is A Little more efficient than low voltage. This is why they use high voltage in transmission lines. Albeit, the voltage difference between your app is small so the efficiency delta is also negligible.
I appreciate the wonderful info, amperage draw tests, etc. Now some nit picky stuff- can you disable the LED display panel while it’s running and is there an auto fan speed mode?
this one is 12v so we run it straight to the + and - bus bar our victron lynx distributor , no need for an inverter! (we got our electrical setup from battle born who is a partner of ours! Here's our affiliate link if interested..also use coupon: mathers for $50 off each battery tinyurl.com/3uej5x8f)
Not sure if this is asked already or not. What's the power draw on Eco Mode? Do you think you could run it 20-24 hours/day on Eco Mode with your current setup?
After using your discount code I bought the unit and should arrive tomorrow. Install seems straightforward except electrical; my Achilles. So much so that I went with a Yeti 6000x because going with components hurt my head to think about. Now I'm not sure yet, how to connect the AC to the Yeti. Can anyone help guide me? TIA
hello, i have a question. my motorhome doesn't have an engine/dash mounted a/c system. It's a 1976. is this something that i can use while driving to keep us cool?
Is this Velit brand any better than the Chinese ones for about 1/2 the price? Where are Velits manufactured? Also, is this a "mini split heat pump" or only an A/C?
I have Houghton 9500 running on 75 amps with a 600 amps lithium, Victron 3000 inverter, running all nite long in Florida in the morning I have 70% of my battery.
I was impressed with this unit and can’t wait to use it once we get the van completed!!!
Use our affiliate code MOTM50 for $50 off your order!
Velit 12v install and comparison video: th-cam.com/video/m4w3xvWKZXM/w-d-xo.html
To calculate efficiency you basically measure power draw in amps, multiply it by the voltage to get your watts... watts are the only units that mater for DC/AC power calculations for us. Then take the unit's BTUs which are often different for heat vs cool and do the math you end up with BTUs per watt. You cant' tell how efficient something is by comparing amps or volts alone because they aren't units of power. There is only 1-2 units on the market anyway that both heat and cool in a window unit anyway so... it's a midea unit and it only goes down to 40degrees I have one. As long as your 12V unit is a heat pump for heat / cool you are automatically better tha 99% of window units.
I must have missed when you mentioned how much battery you have. I have a 27 ft sailboat I want to fit one of these 12-volt air conditioners in, I have a 280 amp hour lithium iron phosphate battery with just under 400 W solar panels
@@Wingnut353 , amps are important from the purview of wire size. Higher voltage reduces the amps for the same wattage, thus resulting in smaller gauge wire being appropriate, resulting in less efficiency loss in heating up the wires to carry higher current. This is my understanding why AC won over Edison's DC power designs in powering our homes.
The critics need to understand that a standard AC-powered rooftop unit has a single speed compressor and the units are often grossly oversized. When they come on, they run full blast until they reach setpoint and turn the compressor off. As a result they short cycle and don't remove humidity well. Humidity is removed when air passes over the evaporator coil that is below dewpoint. This takes time (long compressor runs). When you have a couple of people in a van who cook, shower and breathe, humidity can be a problem. DC compressors fix this by varying the compressor output to allow the unit compressor to run longer to remove humidity and increase efficiency. Same concept mini splits use. Also around 10% of your battery's energy is wasted passing through an inverter to power the 120 VAC unit. DC is the way to go.
HVAC contractor here. Excellent test. I can’t believe it cooled at all with the roof not insulated. Seems like a good solution to your van life ac needs. Great video thank you.
Something everyone forgets is all that stuff on roof cools down van more than you would expect. I'm doing full time van life in an old Chevy express work van with 2 big solar panels on roof, no insulation inside roof...you can feel huge diff in temp to the touch under panels
Writing this comment when the video is 5 months old. Now that you're further along in the build, can you do a real test of this now that you actually have the walls complete and with 2 people in the van? The big issue where air conditioning becomes necessary is sleeping overnight in a hot, humid environment. How much power do you actually use with 2 people in the van (each generating about 150 watts of heat on average) and a nominal amount of insulation? Assume 10.5 hours of darkness. You'll probably have to wait for a hot night. It's easy enough to do the math for how much power an A/C uses while running, but it's a completely different thing to know how much cooling is actually needed. Knowing those figures would really help the community.
Great comment / question. I am also concerned about humidity at night.
I have a 110 volt traditional unit in my van run through a 3000watt inverter with a large enough battery bank to stay cool overnight. These days I think the 12volt units have proved themselves and though I’m not changing my setup which works fine if I were looking for a unit 12volt seems the way to go nowadays. This is a useful review thank you.
Might look at Mini Splits for RV. They are cheaper. You get a Heater on top of that. All in one unit. And the weight is like 60lbs total for a 9000-12,000 BTU... I seen them mounted on Swing out tire racks. As the lines are flexible. And remember. A watt is a watt. So don't let the voltage make you think there more efficient..That claim comes when they are in Eco Mode with soft start..
We have been running the rxt2000 for a year and love it. We can run it on eco mode for about 11 hrs with no issues.
How many batteries do you have ?
We are currently on the road in our van that is equipped with the Velit 12 Volt A/C unit. We used the MOTM code and saved $50.00! Thanks again. The unit is working fine for us and we like it very much. It’s installed over the bed, and we get plenty of air flow to keep us cool. We were in Texas a few weeks ago and at 91 degrees….kept us very comfortable. The one not so good comment…..at night, with the unit directly over our heads, the digital display on the unit is pretty bright….I wish there was a way to dim it! We’re very happy with the AC Unit!
Steve glad you were able to take advantage of the code and thanks for the insight! That’s good feedback about the lights, I can pass that along to Velit for future iterations. That’s definitely going to irritate me as well, I’ll have to tape over it or something!
lol . a LCD display is out smarting you? -enough for it to become a burden.. just put tape over the display. or 5 layers of clear boxing tape. it will refract the bothersome light
Do you think it's underpowered for 100 degree days? I live in California and was considering switching to a 12v. I can't find a video that truly tests during a really hot day.
@@BeyondtheAtomm I live in Florida. I have a Ford Transit, Mid-Roof, 148” wheel base, long…..that I converted into our camper van. My wife and I travel often, and over the course of the past summer, spent many nights in campgrounds where temperatures were 98 and 99 degrees. I feel like we did a decent job of insulating the van, we have insulated window coverings to keep sunlight and heat out of the van. We have Sirocco fan that we use to help move the inside air around in the van. We have a cloth barrier between the living quarters of the van and the cockpit…..this helps to reduce the size of the space we’re trying to cool. With these high temperatures of 98-99 degrees, we were pleased with our Velit 12V AC unit. Usually the inside of our van in the late afternoon, early evening, temps were 18 degrees cooler than the outside temp. During the overnight hours, our temp inside the van would drop to around 68 degrees as the outside temps lowered to 82 or so. We used the AC allot….and we are content with its performance. Our van is smaller than Mather’s Van….the AC works fine for us in our van. I have only 400 Amps of Lithium batteries…..so when temps are hot like this…..we seek a campground with either 15 or 30 amps of service so that we can run the AC on high speed, all evening and all night long. Hope this helps you! Good Luck!
@@Steve-hb3ln Thanks for the reply! Were you only 18 degrees less because you were using eco mode? I'm concerned the unit may be underpowered. I have shore power capabilities but like to travel mostly without it. I'm upgrading my Victron to pull 40amps from my alternator. My current 120AC draws roughly 90amps!!
Once your batteries are fully charged, it might make sense to turn the unit on, and set it to match the solar power you are generating. That way you can pre cool they can a bit without using any of the battery with solar energy that otherwise would go to waste
We just installed our first of these at the shop and it went in really easy especially compared to the dometic, the 14" by 14" cutout matches a Maxx air instead of the dometic's 19" wide hole. Also everything we needed for the install came with the $1600 price tag instead of having to spend an extra $800 on separate wiring and mounting kits. The Dometic is better looking and has a smaller foot print on the roof but Velit made a great unit here and we will be installing these in the future whenever possible.
Awesome insight Jake, thank you for sharing! Stoked to hear it's working out for you guys as well.
Thats cool to know I can just plug it in the maxx air fan hole?
Yep same size roof cut out.
@@MathersOnTheMap "STOKED" I thought you were from NJ and not CA? :)
I have the Dometic for 2 years now and it absolutely rocks. Hands down the best purchase for my van. Expensive yes but worth every penny.
Curious which version you have?
@@jermaine-Yahservant I have the rtx 2000
@@ronnjerremy5796 ok thank👍🏽
Today, we installed the same air conditioner for our customers, and the customers are very satisfied. I will share the video of the blogger with him to make him believe in our products more. Thanks to the bloggers for sharing.
The true test would be to use for 1 full week in Mississippi or Florida in 90+ temps and high humidity. Then see the real workout begin on your battery/solar system and monitor statuses for that week.
truckers have used these for years with much success--the are wall mounts mostly,some have they under the sleeper bed
My friend has a 12v a/c in his Truck camper. Really cool. When he is traveling he keeps it running. So when he gets to where he is going the camper is already cool inside.
if my numbers are correct, after the beach visit the ac unit is over working hard and compressor could be running border line hot, i would check to see if compressor is cycling on and off at least every 30 mins. 30 mins. cooling van, 15 mins compressor off, compressor back on for 30 mins even though companies say continues use duty, engineers will tell you sure, but your cuting the life span of compressor fan greatly. nice video, cool van.
This is the video that I was looking for! Great job! Subbed!
This was excellent. The wife and I are waiting on our first PM 3500 159 ext to come in so we can do a build.
I was going to mount a small 5,000-6,000 btu 'window shaker' through a 12 x 16 hole on back (driver's side) door where a window would normally go (no back windows on ours).
You've got me really thinking now though. We are putting 660w in panels on the roof but I would have to up my game in batteries to do this Velit.
3000w Victron Inverter. We can't afford (actually 'justify') the two Battleborn 270ah batteries. Was planning on two 200ah lithiums. Not sure if that will be good enough.
Great video though!
A small downside to DC AC units is when you want to shore charge your batteries. A lot of your inverter charger's battery charging capacity will be used to run the AC instead of quickly recharging your battery bank.
Great video! 12v AC is definitely the way to go for all van conversions.
Hell yea and when paired with an Orion Roof Rack!
@@MathersOnTheMap I think a more accurate statement is....a DC AC unit is the way to go.
*assuming you have a 12v system
My only thing is I would not put it above the bed. We have our fan above the bed and the ac in the front. The reason is its LOUD and the fan is pretty strong to get the whole van cooled off. So, if you are laying directly under the AC, you are going to get BLASTED by the cold air and it will be super loud. Imagine laying 2 feet under one of your AC vents in the house all night. Also, in the cooler months, you want the fan above your bed when you are not using the AC for good air flow. But, thats just my 2 cents.
I hear ya Tom! It’s not ideal but it had to go there in order to fit 600 watts of solar on the roof and have a maxx air fan. We could have used multiple different panels (shapes and wattage) to fit a more desired layout but then you’re losing solar efficiency. We also couldn’t put the AC in the front because that’s where the baby is going to sleep and we can’t have them freezing. The good thing is you can position the vents in different directions to push the air a specific way.
Many years ago, I had a komfort trailer that used a 12volt evaporation cooler. If the climate is right (southwest) it works amazingly well. I went to Arizona, and it kept us cool when we needed it most.
I ordered one with your code! Can’t wait !
Love to hear it!!!
For more of a comparison I used a inverter model midea 8000 btu (15 ceer rating) window ac in my short bus with no insulation in 90 degree direct sunlight and it cooled the bus to 74 (felt chilli compared to outside, especially when wet from water fun). unit never went over 700 watts and majority of time was running at sub 400 watts. Left running all day pulling 320~ watts from solar and averaged out as battery (400ah 12v) was still at 90+% at night.
It's all anecdotal, but I'd say window AC still is better, look at the power and ratings of the new inverter ones..... and at $350 on sale it's a might cheaper than $1600. Although I must say I'm curious about some of the chinese 12v ones that come with a hidden option which makes it easy to put the condenser fan horizontal under the vehicle, but like most I'm happy with what I have for now. Thanks for taking the time to make the video, sharing is caring :) and I like seeing options and real world examples.
I’ve had both the midea and a Chinese 12v. The midea is much more efficient.
The upfront costs are certainly much higher for a 12v AC. The advantages of 12v drop away if you're planning on having shore power available unlike in your case. Obviously a window AC is still much more suited to a box van or trailer conversion but I could see a market for people using 12v units like yours in off-grid tiny homes too. A lot of trailer conversions mount a window unit on a slide and only run it out when parked and it's in use with maybe a hinged panel covering the opening when is pulled in.
Properinsulation in the van and proper use of the ac is key ac efficiency.
Nicely done! As you say, everyone is entitled to their opinion and what works best for you (size, space, location, cost, etc.) may not be the same for the next person. The only think I would be concerned with is the noise level inside the van when it is running. There are several van-lifers that have put mini split units on a rear door so it is out of the way and it is efficient as well as being quite both inside and outside. Your power system setup looks great. I a looking forward to seeing the van build out!
Thank you I appreciate it!!! A fair concern, the noise is like white noise at-least and will help our baby sleep!
Indeed, if it works it works.
I would prefer a mini split on the back too, and use the extra space on top for 1 or 2 extra solar panels, that would offset the efficiency of the inverter and then some more, while also being easier to find maintenance if it stops working.
But at the end of the day it is up to personal preference.
@@MarcusBuerCan you recommend a certain mini split out there? I’m building a Sprinter.
Been considering this A/C unit for my Sprinter.Thank you this video is great
No problem David hope it helped!
Of course dc is better, but a higher voltage would make for a cheaper set up, I am expecting 48v units will come soon, I am using 24v units and it works just fine and let you use less ridiculously thick wires than 12v.
However, insulation is the key in any van/rv setup!
very sensible comment. It's not A/C vs D/C, higher voltage pulls less amps, hence lower cost for wiring, although wattage is the end game for efficiency, but in theory lower voltage will heat those wires more at high current draw, so you are in essence heating your vehicle unless all wires are outside. 18 degrees cooler than outside is nice/better than nothing, but not kicking like A/C powered unit apparently over sized hehheeheheh
I was wondering how much the battery and inverter setup total cost was? Thanks!
Great demo 👍.
I run the ac in my van 24/7.
I wouldn't have a van without ac.
👍
Thanks Jackie!!! Dang you have a big battery bank right?
@MathersOnTheMap 900 amp hours of lithium. A mini split and 1,200 watts of solar panels. The mini split on the economy setting pulls 389 to 425 watts. The solar panels usually provide 750 - 850 watts along the coast. Sometimes, more in the mountains with less haze, the panels will put out 1,000 to 1,100 watts. This is all during the daytime. At night, the power consumption is a lot less.
The van is very insulated and only 4 windows and a bulkhead door.
It's mostly about function for winter and desert camping.
I just ordered one, but I didn’t know about your discount code. Oh well. One nice thing about this unit is even if I’m out of batteries my converter will run this with my Honda 2000. We usually have that along when we camp with no power when we’re out dirt biking. If I would have bought a 120v a/c I’d need a bigger generator.
Awesome Don, bummer on the code but all good! Good point about the generator!!
Great video! Very informative and well done! One thing I notice that didn't seem correct is that, if you had 71% of a 540 amp hour battery bank available, and you were only consuming 15 amps, the hours remaining should be more like 25 hours instead of the 3 hours and 30 minutes shown. Perhaps I'm missing something, such at your battery bank is not actually 540 amp hours but something smaller. Or, another notion is that your battery size is not set correctly in your Victron system so it's not calculating your remaining battery power correctly. In any case, looks like you have a GREAT system and it will work well. Thanks again for the great video!
Do you have an update now that summer is mostly over?
FRFR Im seeing insulate that thang! Just pack the walls with some foam or expanding spray foam and cover the holes with sheets of wood or similar to keep it from expanding inside.
Full Victron system. Bro ain't cutting corners.
I want to see these units run at 100f and how well they cool.
also working on a build right now and i might get this ac. great video thank you
I know the rooftop 12v AC is more efficient than a 120v mini split AC but you could fit an extra solar panel on the roof instead of the rooftop AC and it might make up for it in some use cases possibly.
Considering here your van isn’t insulated that’s pretty damn good.
The eg4 12k btu is 28.5 seer (115v) and is very efficient and can go as low as 200-300 watts in eco and around 500 watts normal running. 12k btu would be way overkill for your van. The eg4 is what i plan to use in my shuttle bus build. The eg4 is about $1,400. There is a 9k btu (29.5 seer) for $1,200.
Ok, so I recently switched from a 120 volt 5k btu unit to a 8775 btu 12 volt unit. The 5k unit consumed 480 watts, however, The 12 volt unit consumes about 430 watts and there isn’t an inverter to also consume energy. 12 volt puts out more btu and uses less energy. It’s a win-win.
And the 12 volt unit is not as noticeable.
Interesting test. Curious how much better it would work when the van is fully insulated? Since the unit is over the bed, it might help to lower power consumption if you have some sort of partition separating the sleeping area from the rest of the van. Creating a smaller area to cool might allow for the AC to run on a lower setting and use less power from your battery bank. Maybe even lengthen the lifetime of the compressor because of working less hard? Just a thought. Good stuff and interesting segment. Thanks for sharing.
I specifically built a partition door for temperature control for my ProMaster. I haven't needed an AC yet as I live in the PNW. However, I can attest to the significant differences partition/insulation make for temperature control.
With super insulation. Aluminium foil buble. Rockwoll/sprayfoam. Heat resistence paint outside of van. It will works
Even using a blanket as a curtain at the end of the bed will make a huge difference in power consumption.
The draw is still crazy. My 45 qt fridge draws only 25 Amp max in 24 hours at about 85 Fahrenheit ambient. Cooling temp at around 44 Fahrenheit.
Here in Japan, the fitting of 12v air conditioners to smaller vans (and I really mean small vans) is becoming a trend. Not every campsite has a 100v hook-up and even if they do, they are limited in number. I would be interested in learning how it deals with high humidity levels as for the majority of regions in Japan, the summers are not only high in temperature (well over 35C), but with humidity levels that exceed 80%, often higher.
great video, can you run the unit in fan mode only for these not so hot days, and skip a maxx air fan?
It has a fan only mode but it only flows into the van and doesn’t suck air out, which is the more effective method in my opinion
@@MathersOnTheMap thanks! We have a sunroof that opens and really only need it to blow not suck. Different speeds? Or just one speed on the fane mode? Thanks again!
Beautiful roof installation. I havemaxair fan and 640 watts of solar and 412 amps of battery. Dont want to lose any solar and looking to swap out the fan for the ac. In your experience do you use the fan much since you have the ac?
I’ve been contemplating these (IMO the regular RV freezers don’t make sense, even though they are cheaper to buy), but lately I’m seeing the Mini Splits now, looking interesting!
If I were to do an A/C for a van, I too would do a mini split hanging on a rear door (as seen on another TH-cam channel) mainly because they are much quieter inside the van.
@@seriously195 I have a Cooper Hunter mini split on my Ram Promaster and love it. I have a video on my channel.
Where does the water go?
A Mini Split is the best option for AC\Heat.. As the voltage does not matter. As a Watt is a Watt.. Why they install Watt meters on homes...And you can have a Mini Split Serviced each year...Plus the added benefit of having a heater..
A bonus is you can recover the condensation of the Unit. Which is nothing but distilled water. Most make 5 gallons everyday...You can repurpose that water for showers. Bath Room and Cooking...
where do you mount the outdoor unit on a van?
@@Utahdesertrat222What model are we talking about?
I would love to have one, but I already have a Yamaha 2000 watt gas inverter and a 5000 btu window air.
the real test is when the van is done.that A/C will do the job. thank you
Thanks Dan!
when if comes to 120v AC in a van the biggets problem is the inverter unless your running a top of the line inverter there only about 60-80% efficient you can get up to 95ish% but there got a premium price.
I hear ya and agree!!
Thank you
Energy efficiency in this case isn't some abstract mythical figure. It can actually be calculated... by using the approximate formula: amps x volts = watts. A 12k btu pioneer mini split is around $750 and consumes less than 600 watts while this is over $2k (for 12k btu output) and as stated on the website consumes 900-1200 watts of energy. A high quality inverter such as your Victron has an efficiency of around 90-95% depending on the current draw. With the Pioneer consuming half as much power while delivering the same cooling btu's as this 12v roof mount, a 5-10% dissipation of power at the inverter level isn't going to justify using a highly inefficient appliance just because it uses 12 volt.
I don't think this is necessarily a bad option.. because efficiency isn't the only thing people might want to consider when choosing an AC, but videos like this are what confuse the hell out of people when they're trying to figure out how electricity works lol
@@avromfarm674 well said avrom, 12V DC is not proven to be better unto itself. Fully depends on the application as well. Mini split should be more efficient simply by virtue of having a larger condenser outside and separate from the evaporator inside the vehicle. It is neat how far these 12V units come, I think they are perfect for older large class A vehicles where upgrading their A/C systems are over the cost of these rooftop units and they are not allowed to idle overnight anyhow, especially in warmer winter areas where an APU may not be as appropriate.
i always figure the btu needed for cooling and because of enviorment conditions double it, 2 units. then youll be safer. insulate the roof and walls of the van.
Great videos and build. Do you have info on your roof platform and solar panels?
Thank you! Yea we do! WALK ON Solar Panels! - ULTIMATE DIY Van Roof Deck
th-cam.com/video/PiuAdP9X-v8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the review! How many BTU'S does it have and does it have heat as well?
Great demo. I'd love to see it run again when the van is insulated and windows fitted with reflective covers
If used often it would eventually overtake your solar's ability to add juice but if you had B2B charging that would mitigate that power loss.
Me too, can't wait for that. And yep that's fair, we're using the Li-Bim 225 for alternator charging
Would be nice to see how you wired it.
Great video
How is the Velit a/c holding up?
Be interesting to get an update on this when ur finished ur build, actual vs overall power usage, etc.
this is probably a good fit for ur purposes tho there are pro’s & con’s of ac vs dc Airconditioning.
I have a 40’ bus on a property with a 24v system, 2.5kw pv, 19kwh lifpo4 Batteries and a 3kw AIO system I use to power a 2.5kw household inverter split AC & it doesn’t use that much power. With a the rear bedroom door closed at night it will ramp ur to about 1500-1600w for 5 minutes or less & then ramp down to 5-600w for another 5 mins & start to cycle using under 100w at times. I left it run all night once and my total consumption was about 110ah @ 24v from a 400Ah bank, it was full charged again before lunch.
Does this fit where the roof fan was ?
Mine came and it’s installed but I haven’t powered it up yet. Looking it over though the first thing I noticed is there’s no filter for the evaporator and nowhere to put one. I’m not sure if you’re supposed to climb up on the roof every month and pull the cover to clean the evap or what. I might have to cut out the grill and fab one in.
Filter question: Is there a filter? How do you change it? Where do you get replacements? With all the smoke in the northeast US this year, I imagine one would need to change the filter regularly. Thanks. td.
In my much smaller van I cut out my battery tray out and installed a giant 155 AH AGM Gel deep cycle as a starter battery and wired to a 2000w inverter under under the driver seat and to my 30a victron controller in the back. I have no other additional house power. On my roof I've got a single 430w solar panel with custom ventilation under it. Even though I'm in humid Florida I don't have house AC in my van, though I've tested running one of those cheap $150 5000btu Home Depot units and my solar provided about 75% of the power needed in full sun which ran for about 4 hours. The idea i had was to have the wall AC vent and drain into the garage that would be ventilated through the back doors without being actually visible from outside. But after thinking about all the challenges and costs, I never did it and instead what I do is simply park under trees crank my fans on high and then crank up my OEM AC when I get in with van running sometimes for hours. Most mechanics will tell you modern engine cooling systems are okay doing this and cops and taxis do it all day long. I've been doing this for 5 years with no issues. One of the questions I will have for future EV vans is how many hours can the OEM AC run off the power train battery pack? I think we will see an EV van in the next 5 years than can run the OEM AC for 10 hours a day for 2 weeks without needing to charge.
i would do a window unit personally, the only reason is cost. i am trying to build a full time living van and i agree your setup is by far the best and makes more sense but it would be way out of my price range unfortunately
I like the look of this Velit AC unit. With the exposed fan on top I wonder how it would handle a foot of snow and ice on top of it. Have you tested it out in freezing conditions? Do they make a cover?
Could I plug this into an outlet if needed?
Thanks for the video!! What type of warranty does the unit come with?
Makes sense to not lose power in the inverter. How is this working out?
So is there a part 2 to this showing it all installed and working? How has this ac been holding up for you?
this upcoming Tuesday actually!
WE have a MAX FAN on our van. Could it be replaced with a Velit ? How do the cutout sizes compare?
Thanks for your great show.
Yea i believe they’re both 14x14 cut outs
@@MathersOnTheMap , would it be better to have both MaxxAir fan and the Velit? That way you can still vent the van with out using A/C and then just close MaxxAir when using A/C?
What is the amp draw on low and Econ please
Curious, I've seen camper vans using the split AC. Are they somewhere in the middle in terms of efficiency between a full box AC and the 12 volt ac? Kinda curious on how those would fare Boondoxking.
I think they're more efficient but not sure if they can handle a beating when driving on bumpy roads.
How did you measure DC amperage accurately with an AC amperage meter? I think your current draw measurement is probably not accurate.
Curious what the total height of you van is including everything installed on top.
Where can I buy all the battery bank you have to make my air conditioner works ? And if you can send names of each part. Thanks I appreciate
How would converting the vans existing factory AC to a 12v compressor work?
👍 on the air conditioning test run... love using gadgets... perhaps consider a career in the custom van building industry? 🤔
👍on the previous 30 day fitness vlog... as you discovered there is so much more to a workout than free weight and machines... diet is a certainly a key factor, but also finding sources of motivation is equally important... I'm lucky to live with a pro fitness instructor!
I know no alcohol, but this Friday is "Cinco de Mayo" 🍹🍺 and I think you both earned a one day reward celebration!
We're off to Cabo on Sunday.... ☀🌵🤿😎
Do you offer a Spanish version of "Mathers On the Map" for us folks living south of the border in Baja!! 🤣
Buenas Noches!
Thanks Lee!! I’d agree I think Diet arguably more important than the gym!
No Spanish episodes for us haha wish we were fluent though! Enjoy Baja, we’re jealous! Can’t wait to get back there
Is there such a thing as a 5000 BTU roof unit that runs off of 110V AC? If so, please post a link because I can't find one!
Higher voltage is A Little more efficient than low voltage. This is why they use high voltage in transmission lines. Albeit, the voltage difference between your app is small so the efficiency delta is also negligible.
I hear ya and agree! but since our battery bank is 12v you would lose efficiency converting it
Where are they made
Insulation would be a good plan too your air conditioner would work weigh less hard
how long can the AC run?
Hi. Where can I buy all the electric parts?
BattleBorn!! Our coupon code “mathers” gets $50 off! tinyurl.com/3uej5x8f
How much different would the electrical installation be if i used it for shore power only. No solar?
so how many hours can it run? is 7000 btu enough cooling for a 95d day 170" sprinter?
I appreciate the wonderful info, amperage draw tests, etc.
Now some nit picky stuff- can you disable the LED display panel while it’s running and is there an auto fan speed mode?
I have a 240VAC Fujitsu 9000 btu 33 SEER. Your power consumption numbers are good. Just install the proper wiring, 4 ga for minimal voltage drop.
Curious if you ran the ac into an inverter? I was thinking just into an mppt...but I'm still learning and researching. Any tips could help!
this one is 12v so we run it straight to the + and - bus bar our victron lynx distributor , no need for an inverter! (we got our electrical setup from battle born who is a partner of ours! Here's our affiliate link if interested..also use coupon: mathers for $50 off each battery tinyurl.com/3uej5x8f)
I have 300w of solar and one 200 amph lithium ion battery. Is this enough solar to power this?
Not sure if this is asked already or not.
What's the power draw on Eco Mode? Do you think you could run it 20-24 hours/day on Eco Mode with your current setup?
Without insulation it's not really a fair test so it will do much better once the interior is finished.
After using your discount code I bought the unit and should arrive tomorrow. Install seems straightforward except electrical; my Achilles. So much so that I went with a Yeti 6000x because going with components hurt my head to think about. Now I'm not sure yet, how to connect the AC to the Yeti. Can anyone help guide me? TIA
what would you say to my friend who got a boat for the love of wind
hello, i have a question. my motorhome doesn't have an engine/dash mounted a/c system. It's a 1976. is this something that i can use while driving to keep us cool?
Is this Velit brand any better than the Chinese ones for about 1/2 the price? Where are Velits manufactured?
Also, is this a "mini split heat pump" or only an A/C?
12v air con works perfectly well in cars.
I have Houghton 9500 running on 75 amps with a 600 amps lithium, Victron 3000 inverter, running all nite long in Florida in the morning I have 70% of my battery.