That's awesome! My M/C has only been a one speed automatic since the day I cleared my bins of parts to build it up in 2019. Since then I have had Alex tell me how I don't know what I'm missing. I remind him of exactly what I will be missing if I do gears! Love the bike on every level. Annnd, that bike has been my go to during cancer treatment. Always will be rolling on 3.0's!
Very interesting. Thank you. I own a single speed ebike for commuting. Pedal assist is on the front wheel while I push at the back. I mostly keep pedal assist off or low. It helps against wind on the way home after a long day at work.
Read the comments. There is something about feeling more connected to the Bike that make single speeds just a tad more fun. Gears can be good for long climbs but there’s a challenge in climbing with a single speed or fixed gear.
@@crakrjakful I should have been more clear, I was referring to the "feeling more connected to the bike" aspect. Sounds like nonsense to me, mindset thing.
Came back to mtbing after 15yrs. Last was running SS w/paragon MW slider on my own custom made frame. Was running 33t front and 21t rear. Now Im on 29" FS. Bike tech has evolved so much in 15yrs
It sure has! I bet you’d be surprised by how different a modern hardtail would feel compared to the bike you were riding then too. Have you gotten the chance to ride one yet?
Been riding single speed bikes since mid 1990's. Have some important points you may forgot. 1) On a single speed bike drivetrain parts wear faster than their geared counterparts. 2) Have to check chain strech, cog & chainring for wear frequently. Not doing so, means the risk of a jump, skip or broken chain. You will need a chain gauge and a chainring & cog wear tool on your tool stash. 3) Although single speed cogs are omnidirectional, if a cog wears and you install it backwards risk to break a cog tooth and have a jump chain on a high torque condition aka hard climbing. If is a must use it until you find a replacement.....4) On single speed bikes good Chainline is a must, to decrease drivetrain wear and prevent jumping or a skip chain. This is imperative if you use a chain tensioner. 5) Steel is real, try to use steel cogs. Aluminum cogs....... you will surprise how fast they wear. No place for skinny parts here. 6) To add chainring & crank arm spider stiffness, use a metal chainring protector. 7) Aluminum chainring bolts are a no go, they will break or become loose, remember steel is real. 8) I just like ridding single speed bikes not for the placebo effect, for an old man is just feeling like a child again 😁😁😁 You can do as you want.... The stuff I share is based entirely on my years ridding single speed bikes. Enjoy happy single speeding....
Thank you for the tips! I’m still less than six months in, so lots to learn! One of the main reasons for ditching my derailleur was to prevent chain slip under heavy load and while doing fakie tricks, and so for this setup has been flawless!
Try Endless Cogs - Kick ass cogs. They are US (Asheville, NC) made and last just as long as steel. Been riding them for a few years and its all I will run.
Steel cogs are a good suggestion, but beware any cogs with a thin base eating into the splines of your hub's cassette carrier, moreso if your carrier is a boutique aluminium one. Best to get one with a wide base and better still, symmetrical so it can be flipped to improve longevity. Often you'll find a cog has a wide base only on one side so when you flip it, your chainline is off. Standard Shimano freehubs only use two splines and with the torque generated these can chip at the engagement point and will then always slip thereafter, so it's best to migrate to a rear hub that is either singlespeed specific or has a steel or Ti freehub body with at least four pawls which engage at the same time, meaning it will work better for longer (also slightly speeds up drive engagement time). Finally, use a 1/8" chain not one for a derailleur (which are 3/32“ or slimmer), they are much stronger and also allow your chainring and sprocket to be thicker which helps them last longer too, but this isn't essential.
I actually run my Karate Monkey singlespeed for most of the summer, and put gears on for the winter. For me, winter riding means packed snow/slush/ice and melt-freeze. Having gears allows me to get out and spin in a wider range of winter conditions.
Thanks. I am putting a CB hub with 27X1 1/4 rim on my old light Bianchi road bike. I restoed it from a dumpster & cold reset the rear fork dropouts for the change. Waiting for wheel. Single front crank.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Been out of serious wheel work a few years. Got a bit rusty. Had to destress, use new nipples and bring 'er back up. From rite to too tite is about a 10% window. Ouch! I will get it........
I took a full suspension 7sp 20" Mongoose "mountain bike", took everything off, put BMX bars on it and a 20" single speed rear wheel with coaster brakes on it. It's super fun, no cables and don't have to worry about wet brakes.
Single Speed/Fixed Gear is the best cure for equipment obsession. I rode fixed for six months years ago and I never was so impressed again with the marketing of components.
I'm with you on the single speed racers. They were always such a rare but powerful breed. I'm going to convert my old hardtail and try this out for my local winter race series. Less maintenance and a fresh challenge.
I wrote a comment yesterday, but it seems to have disappeared. Anyway, here is a systematic method I have come up with to find the appropriate gearing, assuming you have climbs that you need to do, you have a power meter and a minimum cadence requirement. I have to deal with short climbs as well as long climbs and I want to stay at least in the 40 rpm range. From my power meter, I know my power profile and what I can maintain for different times. I then look at the average grade of a climb, my weight + bike weight, which gives the corresponding speed, which gives the cadence given knowledge of the gear ratio and the tire size. The computations can be done using online power calculators and speed/cadence calculators. For example, I can maintain 250W for 5 minutes, at a body weight + bike weight of 82kg. So on an 8% grade, that's about 11.2kph at 250W, and 45 rpm in a 32x18 for a 2.2in 29" tire. So that gearing is appropriate for that terrain. However, my FTP is about 200W, and on a 10% grade, that gives 7.5kph at 200W, and only 40 rpm even on a 32x22. I would not want to do 40 rpm's hard for an hour, and a lower gear than 32x22 doesn't work elsewhere. I live in Switzerland, and such long steep climbs are everywhere, which is why single speed mountain bikes don't exist here, as far as I can tell.
One has not lived until they’ve ridden MTB fixed. Yes it will cap somethings like bigger jumps and fast descents, but the control and trail feel become amplfied like no other. Not for every scenario, but a must try.
I have a rigid 26 in coaster and v brake mtn bike. I love it with beach cruiser tires for gravel rides, and the knobby wheel set for xc. It's fun to go back to the multi geared full suspension bike after riding it a while.
Single speed mtb is a must have if you've ridden Bmx . Sure, have another bike with gears for those specific rides. But not having to think about switching gears and all the extra weight and maintenance is a game changer. You can now focus only on line choice and keeping momentum , which ultimately makes you much faster and best of all, you translate that skill into your geared bike.. you'll notice it 100%
And itˋs actually crazy when you try it and ride wih people who have gears. You will find out that gears wot give you a lot of an advantege. At least not as big as you think it is.
@@panganaranga Fitness and skills of rider being equal, a singlespeeder will not out climb a person with gears. Downhill... obviously gears don't matter for squat, but regular trails, you remove the fitness and skills equation, I find it unlikely a singlespeeder will outdo a geared rider when they can quickly find a better gear for any section of trail to maximize their performance, especially climbing.
I stripped out my derailleur hanger on my vintage road bike, I installed a bmx cog that I had acquired and removed a chain ring and I had semi horizontal dropouts so I could properly set the tension. Let me tell ya, I never felt more excited in my entire life. Not once did my chain slip, surprise shift, I didn’t have to goof around with the tension shifters… I think the straight chain and less material resulting in lighter weight and less drag was just a step above marginal gains.
For sure! It’s hard to explain that to people who say single speeding is the same as just not shifting. There really is something special about taking all the extra junk off and just ripping around in one gear!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy it really is. Derailleurs are without a doubt the greatest advancement in cycling history since the safety bicycle was invented. I guess you could say it’s a way of paying homage to the Tour De France racers pre-derailleur era
I've got three bikes ( 1 Hardtail, 1 Rigid and 1 for the road) and every one is SS. You have much lower costs, it's lighter but the best is, that you don't have to think about the right gear and have the full concentration on the trail or road. I love it. Enjoy it and greetings from germany.
Maybe that's a newbie issue having to think about shifting? I haven't really thought about shifting in like 15 years. It's about like riding a motorcycle or driving a stick shift vehicle, after awhile you just do it, you don't have think about it anymore.
@@falkog.8004 Obviously to each their own, right? I just didn't understand the justification. Maybe back in the day shifting was an issue, but these days the derails are quick and there is no rule book saying you must shift, you can leave it in any gear you want. As for lighter, well... at most with the heaviest parts you save max 1.5 pounds, that's barely anything. I do get the simple aspect, no extra stuff to break or replace, that I understand.
@@MotoAtheistwell like you said, to each their own so I don’t expect you to see the justification. All I can expect is that you respect others ideas and what they like, mate. If you really want to stretch your asshole, just look at what them UCI World Cup racers are doing with their bikes. Indeed, 1.5 lbs (pounds?) is more than a difference, so to me that alone is quite justified as here in NZ we need to cut down on weight to throw our bikes down the course the fastest.
I have a single speed SC Chameleon. I use it to ride at South Mountain in Phoenix. IMO it is a waste of time to worry about how fast you can go with a given ratio. Use the hardest ratio you can ride up the steepest hills on your trails. On desends you're just gonna be coasting anyway. You can't climb AND go fast on a single.
We used to live in Ahwatukee and rode South Mountain all the time! The Desert Classic trail has got to be one of the better single speed trails out there! Sadly I hadn’t made the shift to SS at that point.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Right? That's where I ride and I rarely see anybody else on s single. I'm thinking about making a vid called, "10 reasons you should ride a single speed." The simplicity of it reminds me of when I was a kid and rode BMX. It's totally liberating to take gears out of the equation.
8:55 - you need to multiply this formula by 3.14 (pi) to come to the length by 1 full crank turn :) the wheel circumference is 2 * radius * pi, 2*radius is 26", 27.5", 29" the pi is missing in this formula and the length is more than 3 times bigger
That’s true, thank you! And I realized after making the video that I was incorrect by saying that’s literally how far you go. The “gear inches” figure used in the bike industry doesn’t include pi for whatever reason, so sticking with wheel size X gear ration is the most helpful number when comparing gearings
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy 100% right - this ratio is very useful, 3.14 makes no difference when comparing gearing, wheel sizes; your vid helped me a lot in an indirect way though; i tried to pop my first wheelies and according to tutorials I chose a gear inches around 50 (middle gear); but it turned out that I need a lot more torque to lift the front with my 90kg on the saddle ;) for me gear inches around 20 is necessary and it makes a great difference
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy that's why it's gear inches and not movement inches. It's literally just to be able to equate the gearing setup across any range of cycles with any wheel sizes and is genius in its simplicity.
a quick way to measure the ratio a bike has is putting down a rock at the valve, rotating the crank one full revolution with the bike moving forward, put another rock down, measure the distance in inches and divide by pi (3.14159265). this way you can try other people's ratios and quickly translate it to what you want, regardless of their and your tyre size. simply multiplying with 27.5 is not accurate
I have been using a 18 in the back 33 upfront. Works great for the rolly pollies around Arkansas. Sometimes people's reaction is hilarious when you meet them on the trail and they realize you were on a ss.
ps if you can afford ss in the mean time use your deraliur (dyslexic) use the gear cable as the tention till it lines up with the single speed cog and walla
True! Its pretty dang cheap to convert though. I bought one nicer Wolf Tooth cog for $40, but the other three were around $15 each on Amazon (spacers included)!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy really I struggled to find one for a full sus cos I broke the derailleur from jumping so I was like screw idk how to tune gears got no money my mates got a spare one then slapped on that then went to single speed I'm such a bodge job person now ik how to to gears thanks to work but don't have a stand can you make a video of a DIY bike stand
@@MotoAtheist overall weight dont meter i agree ! But i talked about playfullnes witch means when i do an endo turn it is much easyer to lift the rare end when the wheel is ligter and thats not placebo effect i think.
@@SzabolcsBardos Yeah, just not buying that it's noticeable. 1.5 pounds is nothing when you consider the overall weight of the bike and yourself on the bike. There is just no way that 1.5 pounds makes any significant noticeable difference. That's why I say it only feels that way, it's a placebo effect that it feels different because you want to believe it made a real difference.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy it's still 10 bucks on Ali express. TH-cam nukes links, but Baja Sports makes it. I used a 10mm hardware store bolt and thread lock.
Buy a second rear wheel with a single speed hub,, Both my hardtails 29'er/26'er have 2½ set of wheels, 3'rear/2'front wheels,, 1 set with offroad tires & 1 with street and 1 rear with a Golden Motors Magic Pie 5,,,,
So i am fairly new to biking as a hobby, i had a fixie in California and what caught my attention was being able to control my speed and how fast i stopped with my pedals. I recently got a genesis geared bike and want to change it to a fixed gear bike so i have the ability to go in reverse or handle my speed with my pedals, i have removed parts of the shamino rear wheel stuff but need help moving forward. I understand the whole keeping those gears together when removing the cog but what gear would i have to buy to be able to go backwards? Because i remember simply switching sides of the gear to convert it from regular to fixed gear. Help is much needed and appreciated 🙏🏼
Although you managed to remove the cassette, you didnt use the chain whip properly. the section of chain that is fixed at either end to the tool should contact the cassette. Good vid, enjoy the SS life!!
I own Hardtail MTB which is a DJ Bike or Some Call it A Free Rider Bike Because of my setup it is Single Speed Cogs the Chainring is 34t and my Single Sprocket is 13t some said I should Go on a 32t Chainring but I need Something that can get me some a little bit of speed when I am on a Flat Road so that's why I chose 34t Chainring so everything for me is Balanced. but Yea it is Fun Using Single Speed Sprocket because my old Setup is an XC which is 3x9 Speed problem is when in repair and parts it cost a lot when I go to a Bike Shop just to tune it fix everything but when I built a Dj Bike which is all Single Speed it lessen the need for money for repairs so which is neat for me who can't afford and Buy expensive parts for my Bike because all of my part is Just low end.
Thank you Tom! I double checked after your comment, and I don’t believe that’s included in the equation, though I see how you could get there! Here’s a cool article that goes in depth into the formula! bike.bikegremlin.com/6199/gear-inches-explained/
Looks like adding pi gets you an actual numerical quantity of the wheels’ movement, but isn’t used in practice when calculating/comparing gear inches in lay-term
Haha only time will tell! I’ve only gotten out on one ride since the switch and it was TOUGH! I plan to make a video with my thoughts on it after a few months of trying it out
Hi there i know this is an old video But I’ve been walking around with the idea to convert my 2015 26” Giant XTC1 into a single speed. I have a mint which I train and sometimes race. I would use the single speed for just commuting and hit some easy trails. I wonder which gear ratio will be the best. 30/16x 26?
It’s really dependent on your terrain/fitness/etc, but that sounds like a good place to start! I talk a bit more about it in this video, check it out: th-cam.com/video/y_FV-3O61SQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1ElH38lkk3AphiHT
i rode a 15t cog by 50t chainring for over a year and it really makes the whole bike feel like its a part of you, when i had gears it felt like a machine but as soon as i changed it (originally 15:32t) it felt like an extension of me rather than just a bike, as time went on i bought a bmx and fixed gear purely because of the experience i had with my mtb and when i get a better mtb soon, you know im making it singlespeed.
Hello! You gear inch computations are actually unnecessary. All you had to do was go out and do single speed simulations, that is, choose a gear on your geared bike and never shift. You could thus test out different gear ratios for different trails, and choose your single speed setup that way.
That's definitely a good start! As I've already begun to find, there's a pretty big difference between how efficiently you can pedal a gear ration with and without the added rotational weight of the cassette and drag of the derailleur. Using gear inches is also a good way to talk about gearings between different riders.
Reason #1 simplicity,reason #2 the lightest mtb, reason #3 the body english you learn by riding one can help you climb a hill on a trail in ways none can understand until they ride a singlespeed. I do not endorse fixie though. cheers.
From personal experience i hate rhis suggestion my lbs tries to say that all the time when its just not the same especially when your trying to do things on a budget as is i had rode my 98 mantra comp as a half ass single speed in the same way for a good 6 months before i got tired of changing my chain line by hand and decides to take a 3x crank and turn it into an ideal 1x for free
I have 32/22 on a 29 wheel. I tried what you said but there is no 22 tooth cog on most cassettes. I used the 24 for test purposes. It was more important to me to stay on the bike than to go faster on descents. Anything smaller than 22 on the back and I'd have to get off and walk.
Half the fun of riding a good bike is going up and down the cassette and always maximising my output. So I'll never understand something like a singer speed mtb. Also, the "chain whip" tool for removing the cassette is the biggest waste of money ever. I just remove the chain, stand the wheel up on the ground, run the chain across the top of the cassette and stand on it, then unscrew the locking nut.. Done
I decided to try single speed when my rear derailleur broke. Since I'm using a frame with fixed vertical dropout and no luck to get the chain perfect tension for my 18t-36t gearing, it makes me forced to use a chain tensioner. I'm too lazy to straighten my derailleur hanger again, but that's not a big problem since I don't like the look of those tensioner that you put there. Instead of that, I use a BB-mount tensioner which is the Blackspire Stinger 2x, finally got the perfect tension without disturbing the neatness look of a single speed setup!
Your chain is too loose, there's a big chance it'll came off if you jump. You're right if it's too tight it'll cause problemes tto, but here the rule of tumb isthe chain is tight enough if it's in a straight line at the top of the chainwheels, it's too loose it has a curve in it.
I thankfully haven’t had any issues yet! I like doing crankflips which requires the pedals to spin with pretty much zero friction. I do run a chain guide, so I’m sure that’s helping!
I mostly ride single speed, since my derailleur doesn't shift usually. But, I believe converting your bike to a single speed is a foolish choice. Because, on windy days, you really can benefit from shifting gears.
Good question! Because you still have the derailleur, and eliminating the drag/fragility/clutter of a derailleur is one of the biggest reasons I chose to try single speeds out.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy there's no derailleur in a speed hub. Eg. The alfine. It's fairly concealed, and while can have a bit more weight, it is sealed and has the ability to use a belt or chain.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy not much, but i've tried a few on a commuter bikes that wheelied well, haha. I'm not sure if that's a great application for a proper speed-oriented enduro bike, but for a jib bike which is a single-speed already, having a few extra options might be an interesting test. The main drawback usually is the weight associated on the rear hub, which again is not really an issue on a hardtail. My thinking is that it could be a great maintenance-free alternative to such a bike similar to yours, whilst being more flexible than a single speed. They also come quite inexpensive now days (like the Shimano alfine) and I found it very nice to pedal about with one. Also the dishing is almost symetrical which is a great addition to wheel stiffness.
Master one gear is a thing.. I have a 26 bmx that's geared high enough the fixie guys can't just out spin me and I outperform these guys on the street all the time.. I have a 30 x 13t set up and that's about as high as I can go and still climb and I do that by standing up and cranking and using my upper body.. of course none of this would be possible if I didn't do allot of work in the gym but it sure is fun trolling guys on multi speed bikes.. If you want to do single speed my recommendation is squats and more squats.
Yeah, always helps you look better when comparing yourself to weekend riders who also don't have time to live in the gym like you do. Plenty of people would destroy you on their geared bikes, but I bet you don't seek them out, huh?
@@MotoAtheist A guy in good shape on a gravel bike that knows how to ride in traffic and is just as willing as me to break traffic laws will always outperform me on my SS.. but I just got an Ibis DV9 frame in the mail today I'm going to build up for the street so it should get interesting..
Ya' didn't quite get the definition of gear inches right. It's not how far the bike rolls in one revolution. It's the diameter of an imaginary direct drive bike wheel. So 60 gear inches would be like a high wheeler (penny farthing) with a 5 foot diameter wheel. A 60" diameter wheel has a circumference of 188.4", which is how far you roll with one revolution of the cranks, with 60 gear inches.
I think you’d be surprised by how much riding a single speed helps with that! You’re a whole lot less likely to grab a fistful of breaks into a corner when you know you can’t just pedal your way out - really forces you to learn how to carry your momentum
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy I agree 100% however I'm talking overall speed depending on the type of trail. I'd say single speed is great for groomed trails or pump tracks but gnarly single tracks with some mighty climbs the rider better have the power to lay down the watts. On the flats they may feel like they need a bigger front chainring because they maxed out There are definitely fast MTB riders on a single speed that are fit as well as skilled but I still think it's a slight disadvantage. But it's all good. It's about enjoying the ride~ 🙌🏻
Ya, it’s definitely not the tool for winning races. But I honestly thought it slow me down a ton more on the descents, which I’m sure it has to a degree, but it’s also helped me get better at staying off the brakes which has been cool! But yes, I’ll definitely be switching back before enduro racing starts again this spring haha
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Right on! Single speed makes your legs and cardio stronger and develops better bike skills overall. Come racing season I'm sure you'll see big improvements. Cheers dude! 🙌🏻😀
I take my singlespeed on a group ride every week in the summer. I'm always in the front on the climbs. I will usually put myself about 3rd or 4th on the descent and it usually works quite well. I would probably go in the front all the time if I wasn't on a rigid fork. If speed is truly what you're worried about, a singlespeed is faster. You just have to find the gear that works for you and your wheel size.
Negative, the reason multi-speed cogs are directional is because the have machined “ramps” to assist the chain in moving up the cassette, SS cogs are essentially small chainrings; no directionality needed 🤙
Surprisingly different ride fee when you take off a pound of unsprung weight and the friction of a derailleur! Give it a try, single speed cogs cost less than $20 👍
sick!!!! i have also been wondering how oval chainrings perform in a single speed setup as the maximize the point u put more power on the cranks ( the larger part) while allowing the recovery part to be quicker (smaller part) th-cam.com/video/mZ_7cIzKh9w/w-d-xo.html
I’ve heard a lot of good things about them on single speeds! Seems crazy to me that they work without having a derailleur/chain tensioner to take up the slack of the smaller part of the ring, but I’ve seen a lot of people do it!
No tensioner is needed because a 30T round chainring is the same circumference as a 30T oval. Picture a horizontal line from the center of the chainring to the front edge. On a round chainring that distance is always the same as it spins so clearly there’s no problem with the chain length. But on an oval chainring that distance changes as it spins and so it would seem like the chain wouldn’t work. It would have to stretch and contract or have a tensioner to take up the slack. But what you’re forgetting is that on the vertical axis the distance is decreasing as the horizontal distance increases. So, at the same time that the chain needs to get longer when the oval is horizontal it also needs to get shorter for the vertical distance and in a sense is then stretching and contracting. I hope I explained that clearly.
@@kad1017 Sadly not the case, though the logic stands haha! If you’ve ever seen an oval chainring on a geared bike you can see the derailleur compensating for the chain growth. Here’s a video showing that: th-cam.com/video/kf6fTqaLysg/w-d-xo.html People get away with it by running a large enough ring partnered with a chain guide so that chain won’t hit the chain stays.
Haha I think both apply here. Sprocket also happens to be the name our dog! Full name is Sprocket the Dirt Jump Dog, he makes appearances from time to time
I'm with you Egon, singlespeed makes no sense logically and I don't buy the drastic difference in feel at all, it's simply a placebo effect at best. Talking about 1.5 pounds at most being taken off. Downhill, I can understand not wanting the derail and chain slapping around back there, the advantage is obvious, but any other normal trail system, singlespeed makes no logical sense whatsoever. Not buying the faster claims or any other claims.
Some truth in this. When you need an old derailleur bike rolling but the rear mech is broken/bend/whatever just remove it, put the chain on whichever rear sprocket is best in line with the front sprocket, shorten it accordingly and pedal on. Also do onor bikes that end up in Afrika ride exclusive this way. However there are some serious mountainbikers doing this for the other benefits
Yes, all the people who talk about the fitness benefits of riding a single speed overlook the fact that you get the exact same workout for free by just choosing a gear on your geared bike and never shifting. I have been doing that for the last year.
@@ilanpi That'll get you the fitness benefits, and then some! It's actually pretty crazy how much easier it is to ride a SS setup than a geared bike in the same gear ratio. I think that mostly comes down to reduced rotating weight (no cassette) and virtually zero drag (no derailleur). The bike accelerates a ton better and it's a bit less of a grind to climb.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Logically that makes zero sense about drag issues and what not... just shift one gear easier and the ratio makes up for any drag issues of running the harder gear, that's kind of the whole point of gears, you can find the sweet spot for maximizing performance for whatever section of trail you are on at the moment. The only way a singlespeed is going to beat a geared bike is rider ability. Start up a hill and the geared bike can shift down and blast up that hill, the singlespeeder can't adjust and has to deal with the tougher pedaling. Fitness for fitness, the geared rider will easily out climb the singlespeeder.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Converted completely to single speed over 3 years ago and I have NEVER looked back, absolutely made me a faster rider!
That’s awesome!! What type of riding do you do most of?
Why did you convert?
I talk about that a little more in this video: th-cam.com/video/zhflnYOqbqE/w-d-xo.html
@@millerman692 n+1
And if you go back to gears you will be faster there is a reason why cross country riders use gears show me one that uses single speed
That's awesome! My M/C has only been a one speed automatic since the day I cleared my bins of parts to build it up in 2019. Since then I have had Alex tell me how I don't know what I'm missing. I remind him of exactly what I will be missing if I do gears! Love the bike on every level. Annnd, that bike has been my go to during cancer treatment. Always will be rolling on 3.0's!
Very interesting. Thank you. I own a single speed ebike for commuting. Pedal assist is on the front wheel while I push at the back. I mostly keep pedal assist off or low. It helps against wind on the way home after a long day at work.
That’s awesome!
Currently pondering the idea to do this to my Kona Cinder Cone
Read the comments. There is something about feeling more connected to the Bike that make single speeds just a tad more fun. Gears can be good for long climbs but there’s a challenge in climbing with a single speed or fixed gear.
Placebo effect, nothing more.
@@MotoAtheist placebo ? go climb with a fixed bike let us know the placebo effect lol
@@crakrjakful I should have been more clear, I was referring to the "feeling more connected to the bike" aspect. Sounds like nonsense to me, mindset thing.
@@MotoAtheist just kiddin :)
@@MotoAtheist yeah, you are right
Came back to mtbing after 15yrs. Last was running SS w/paragon MW slider on my own custom made frame. Was running 33t front and 21t rear. Now Im on 29" FS. Bike tech has evolved so much in 15yrs
It sure has! I bet you’d be surprised by how different a modern hardtail would feel compared to the bike you were riding then too. Have you gotten the chance to ride one yet?
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy I'm too old to go back to riding hardtails or SS, LOL
Hahaha I get that! Just recently made the switch from BMX to MTB for the same reason, I’m sure I’ll be following you’re trajectory one of these days!
Been riding single speed bikes since mid 1990's. Have some important points you may forgot. 1) On a single speed bike drivetrain parts wear faster than their geared counterparts. 2) Have to check chain strech, cog & chainring for wear frequently. Not doing so, means the risk of a jump, skip or broken chain. You will need a chain gauge and a chainring & cog wear tool on your tool stash. 3) Although single speed cogs are omnidirectional, if a cog wears and you install it backwards risk to break a cog tooth and have a jump chain on a high torque condition aka hard climbing. If is a must use it until you find a replacement.....4) On single speed bikes good Chainline is a must, to decrease drivetrain wear and prevent jumping or a skip chain. This is imperative if you use a chain tensioner. 5) Steel is real, try to use steel cogs. Aluminum cogs....... you will surprise how fast they wear. No place for skinny parts here. 6) To add chainring & crank arm spider stiffness, use a metal chainring protector. 7) Aluminum chainring bolts are a no go, they will break or become loose, remember steel is real. 8) I just like ridding single speed bikes not for the placebo effect, for an old man is just feeling like a child again 😁😁😁
You can do as you want.... The stuff I share is based entirely on my years ridding single speed bikes. Enjoy happy single speeding....
Thank you for the tips! I’m still less than six months in, so lots to learn! One of the main reasons for ditching my derailleur was to prevent chain slip under heavy load and while doing fakie tricks, and so for this setup has been flawless!
You are so correct about using steel over aluminum cogs. I used aluminum cogs some years back and they didn't last 3 months.
Try Endless Cogs - Kick ass cogs. They are US (Asheville, NC) made and last just as long as steel. Been riding them for a few years and its all I will run.
Steel cogs are a good suggestion, but beware any cogs with a thin base eating into the splines of your hub's cassette carrier, moreso if your carrier is a boutique aluminium one. Best to get one with a wide base and better still, symmetrical so it can be flipped to improve longevity. Often you'll find a cog has a wide base only on one side so when you flip it, your chainline is off. Standard Shimano freehubs only use two splines and with the torque generated these can chip at the engagement point and will then always slip thereafter, so it's best to migrate to a rear hub that is either singlespeed specific or has a steel or Ti freehub body with at least four pawls which engage at the same time, meaning it will work better for longer (also slightly speeds up drive engagement time).
Finally, use a 1/8" chain not one for a derailleur (which are 3/32“ or slimmer), they are much stronger and also allow your chainring and sprocket to be thicker which helps them last longer too, but this isn't essential.
A couple chains and cogs a decade is no big deal
I think a single spd MTB would good for winter and fire roads and a fully rigid bike. The weight savings would also be a bonus.
My thoughts exactly! I think I’ll probably throw the derailleur on there again in the spring, but who knows, maybe I’ll fall in love haha!
I actually run my Karate Monkey singlespeed for most of the summer, and put gears on for the winter. For me, winter riding means packed snow/slush/ice and melt-freeze. Having gears allows me to get out and spin in a wider range of winter conditions.
Makes sense!!
I ride my trail bike in summer and single speed in winter
Talking about maybe 1.5lbs at most, nobody is going to notice that enough to make any real difference, I just don't believe it one bit.
Thanks. I am putting a CB hub with 27X1 1/4 rim on my old light Bianchi road bike. I restoed it from a dumpster & cold reset the rear fork dropouts for the change. Waiting for wheel. Single front crank.
Nice, enjoy!!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Been out of serious wheel work a few years. Got a bit rusty. Had to destress, use new nipples and bring 'er back up. From rite to too tite is about a 10% window. Ouch! I will get it........
I took a full suspension 7sp 20" Mongoose "mountain bike", took everything off, put BMX bars on it and a 20" single speed rear wheel with coaster brakes on it. It's super fun, no cables and don't have to worry about wet brakes.
Sounds like ultimate play bike haha!
They feel so good. I've owned two xc SS's they're sooo much fun. Snappy, but hard to ride 20 miles near my trails. Cheers folks!
Singlespeed is still my favorite form of mountain biking. Hands down my favorite type of riding.
It really is a blast!!
Single speed biking is my favorite form of biking rather it be mountain, beach or urban biking.
Single Speed/Fixed Gear is the best cure for equipment obsession. I rode fixed for six months years ago and I never was so impressed again with the marketing of components.
That’s awesome! I think we could all use a dose of that!
I'm with you on the single speed racers. They were always such a rare but powerful breed. I'm going to convert my old hardtail and try this out for my local winter race series. Less maintenance and a fresh challenge.
I think you’ll really enjoy it!! Have fun 🤙
It's good for desert sand too
I wrote a comment yesterday, but it seems to have disappeared. Anyway, here is a systematic method I have come up with to find the appropriate gearing, assuming you have climbs that you need to do, you have a power meter and a minimum cadence requirement. I have to deal with short climbs as well as long climbs and I want to stay at least in the 40 rpm range. From my power meter, I know my power profile and what I can maintain for different times. I then look at the average grade of a climb, my weight + bike weight, which gives the corresponding speed, which gives the cadence given knowledge of the gear ratio and the tire size. The computations can be done using online power calculators and speed/cadence calculators. For example, I can maintain 250W for 5 minutes, at a body weight + bike weight of 82kg. So on an 8% grade, that's about 11.2kph at 250W, and 45 rpm in a 32x18 for a 2.2in 29" tire. So that gearing is appropriate for that terrain. However, my FTP is about 200W, and on a 10% grade, that gives 7.5kph at 200W, and only 40 rpm even on a 32x22. I would not want to do 40 rpm's hard for an hour, and a lower gear than 32x22 doesn't work elsewhere. I live in Switzerland, and such long steep climbs are everywhere, which is why single speed mountain bikes don't exist here, as far as I can tell.
Super in depth, thank you for passing that on!
You must be a clock
One has not lived until they’ve ridden MTB fixed. Yes it will cap somethings like bigger jumps and fast descents, but the control and trail feel become amplfied like no other. Not for every scenario, but a must try.
Fixed?! That’s super gnarly!
I have a rigid 26 in coaster and v brake mtn bike. I love it with beach cruiser tires for gravel rides, and the knobby wheel set for xc. It's fun to go back to the multi geared full suspension bike after riding it a while.
That’s awesome!! Thanks for sharing!
30 to 23 here in Chattanooga. All climbs and downhill. Love it.
Nice!!
Single speed mtb is a must have if you've ridden Bmx . Sure, have another bike with gears for those specific rides. But not having to think about switching gears and all the extra weight and maintenance is a game changer. You can now focus only on line choice and keeping momentum , which ultimately makes you much faster and best of all, you translate that skill into your geared bike.. you'll notice it 100%
It’s so much fun! The whole fast thing has transferred over yet, but I’m hoping soon haha!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy oh it will, maybe you won't notice since you're just shreddin having a good time hah!
Haha maybe! Probably just haven’t spent enough time with the new setup too
And itˋs actually crazy when you try it and ride wih people who have gears. You will find out that gears wot give you a lot of an advantege. At least not as big as you think it is.
@@panganaranga Fitness and skills of rider being equal, a singlespeeder will not out climb a person with gears. Downhill... obviously gears don't matter for squat, but regular trails, you remove the fitness and skills equation, I find it unlikely a singlespeeder will outdo a geared rider when they can quickly find a better gear for any section of trail to maximize their performance, especially climbing.
I stripped out my derailleur hanger on my vintage road bike, I installed a bmx cog that I had acquired and removed a chain ring and I had semi horizontal dropouts so I could properly set the tension.
Let me tell ya, I never felt more excited in my entire life. Not once did my chain slip, surprise shift, I didn’t have to goof around with the tension shifters… I think the straight chain and less material resulting in lighter weight and less drag was just a step above marginal gains.
For sure! It’s hard to explain that to people who say single speeding is the same as just not shifting. There really is something special about taking all the extra junk off and just ripping around in one gear!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy it really is. Derailleurs are without a doubt the greatest advancement in cycling history since the safety bicycle was invented. I guess you could say it’s a way of paying homage to the Tour De France racers pre-derailleur era
I ride a rigid SS mountain bike, and it's the shit. It's by far the best mountain bike I've owned.
That’s awesome! Sometimes the simpler the bike, the more organic and enjoyable the experience!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy definitely. There's just nothing to think about except the ride.
Best video I’ve seen for switching to single speed thanks dude your a legend
Oh wow, thank you man!! Glad it was helpful!
I've got three bikes ( 1 Hardtail, 1 Rigid and 1 for the road) and every one is SS. You have much lower costs, it's lighter but the best is, that you don't have to think about the right gear and have the full concentration on the trail or road. I love it.
Enjoy it and greetings from germany.
Thank you!!
Maybe that's a newbie issue having to think about shifting? I haven't really thought about shifting in like 15 years. It's about like riding a motorcycle or driving a stick shift vehicle, after awhile you just do it, you don't have think about it anymore.
@@MotoAtheist i'm a former bike messenger and i like it light and simple. I tried a 10 speed on my hardtail. after one month i had enough.
@@falkog.8004 Obviously to each their own, right? I just didn't understand the justification. Maybe back in the day shifting was an issue, but these days the derails are quick and there is no rule book saying you must shift, you can leave it in any gear you want. As for lighter, well... at most with the heaviest parts you save max 1.5 pounds, that's barely anything. I do get the simple aspect, no extra stuff to break or replace, that I understand.
@@MotoAtheistwell like you said, to each their own so I don’t expect you to see the justification. All I can expect is that you respect others ideas and what they like, mate. If you really want to stretch your asshole, just look at what them UCI World Cup racers are doing with their bikes. Indeed, 1.5 lbs (pounds?) is more than a difference, so to me that alone is quite justified as here in NZ we need to cut down on weight to throw our bikes down the course the fastest.
I have a single speed SC Chameleon. I use it to ride at South Mountain in Phoenix. IMO it is a waste of time to worry about how fast you can go with a given ratio. Use the hardest ratio you can ride up the steepest hills on your trails. On desends you're just gonna be coasting anyway. You can't climb AND go fast on a single.
We used to live in Ahwatukee and rode South Mountain all the time! The Desert Classic trail has got to be one of the better single speed trails out there! Sadly I hadn’t made the shift to SS at that point.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Right? That's where I ride and I rarely see anybody else on s single. I'm thinking about making a vid called, "10 reasons you should ride a single speed." The simplicity of it reminds me of when I was a kid and rode BMX. It's totally liberating to take gears out of the equation.
Do it!! I’d love to watch that!
Really Interesting video..look forward to your thoughts in a couple of months
I appreciate it, and I’ll definitely keep you posted! Do you have much experience with single speeds?
8:55 - you need to multiply this formula by 3.14 (pi) to come to the length by 1 full crank turn :) the wheel circumference is 2 * radius * pi, 2*radius is 26", 27.5", 29" the pi is missing in this formula and the length is more than 3 times bigger
That’s true, thank you! And I realized after making the video that I was incorrect by saying that’s literally how far you go. The “gear inches” figure used in the bike industry doesn’t include pi for whatever reason, so sticking with wheel size X gear ration is the most helpful number when comparing gearings
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy 100% right - this ratio is very useful, 3.14 makes no difference when comparing gearing, wheel sizes; your vid helped me a lot in an indirect way though; i tried to pop my first wheelies and according to tutorials I chose a gear inches around 50 (middle gear); but it turned out that I need a lot more torque to lift the front with my 90kg on the saddle ;) for me gear inches around 20 is necessary and it makes a great difference
Glad it was helpful! Ya it’s misleading that they call it “gear inches” since you don’t end up calculating for circumference (I assume?) using pi 🤷♂️
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy that's why it's gear inches and not movement inches. It's literally just to be able to equate the gearing setup across any range of cycles with any wheel sizes and is genius in its simplicity.
a quick way to measure the ratio a bike has is putting down a rock at the valve, rotating the crank one full revolution with the bike moving forward, put another rock down, measure the distance in inches and divide by pi (3.14159265). this way you can try other people's ratios and quickly translate it to what you want, regardless of their and your tyre size. simply multiplying with 27.5 is not accurate
That’s true, tire size is definitely variable! Your method sounds cool, I’ll have to try it out and see how close it is to my calculations!
I have been using a 18 in the back 33 upfront. Works great for the rolly pollies around Arkansas. Sometimes people's reaction is hilarious when you meet them on the trail and they realize you were on a ss.
Haha nice!!
ps if you can afford ss in the mean time use your deraliur (dyslexic) use the gear cable as the tention till it lines up with the single speed cog and walla
True! Its pretty dang cheap to convert though. I bought one nicer Wolf Tooth cog for $40, but the other three were around $15 each on Amazon (spacers included)!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy really I struggled to find one for a full sus cos I broke the derailleur from jumping so I was like screw idk how to tune gears got no money my mates got a spare one then slapped on that then went to single speed I'm such a bodge job person now ik how to to gears thanks to work but don't have a stand can you make a video of a DIY bike stand
Nice man, way to make it happen! And that sounds like a cool idea, I’ll see what I can do!
allso makes the rare wheel lighter and more playfull !! love the video!!
I’ve only ridden it around the neighborhood so far but have already noticed that difference, pretty crazy!!
Placebo effect, you're talking about 1.5 pounds at most, nobody is going to notice that, not believing it.
@@MotoAtheist overall weight dont meter i agree ! But i talked about playfullnes witch means when i do an endo turn it is much easyer to lift the rare end when the wheel is ligter and thats not placebo effect i think.
@@SzabolcsBardos Yeah, just not buying that it's noticeable. 1.5 pounds is nothing when you consider the overall weight of the bike and yourself on the bike. There is just no way that 1.5 pounds makes any significant noticeable difference. That's why I say it only feels that way, it's a placebo effect that it feels different because you want to believe it made a real difference.
Try it, might as well put your money where your mouth is 🤷♂️ Here’s a cog for $15! Origin8 Single Speed Cog a.co/d/dUonUfu
I'm thinking working over a empty barrel is best. Drop parts into a box inside of barrel?
I used a bike with vertical dropouts, a half link chain, and a sprung go kart neoprene roller mounted to the der hanger.
Dang haha, that’s pure engineering mastery right there!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy it's still 10 bucks on Ali express. TH-cam nukes links, but Baja Sports makes it. I used a 10mm hardware store bolt and thread lock.
Baja sports makes the roller with arm and spring
The censorship keeps nailing links. You can get it for 10. I've had one a decade and ride rain or shine with it
Buy a second rear wheel with a single speed hub,,
Both my hardtails 29'er/26'er have 2½ set of wheels, 3'rear/2'front wheels,, 1 set with offroad tires & 1 with street and 1 rear with a Golden Motors Magic Pie 5,,,,
Nice!
Running an Onyx vespar with hg hub. I go back and forth ss and gears with ease on a Canfield nimble 9(sliding dropouts)
Holysheed the whole parktool galore there 🫡🫡🫡😂😂😂
The Middle Child has that future geometry. love the steel, love the video.
It’s a machine 🤘 Have you ridden one?
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy not personally, but a good friend rocks his on our rides.
Nice! What do you ride?
excellent information, "RIDE ON"
4:43 the hyperglide every areas are having a rushes
awesome video, im so tempted to changed my mountain bike to a single speed! :)
Do it!! You can always switch back if you're not a fan
@Josh: the gear inch calculation is right although you aren't accounting for the tire width in the formula
So i am fairly new to biking as a hobby, i had a fixie in California and what caught my attention was being able to control my speed and how fast i stopped with my pedals. I recently got a genesis geared bike and want to change it to a fixed gear bike so i have the ability to go in reverse or handle my speed with my pedals, i have removed parts of the shamino rear wheel stuff but need help moving forward. I understand the whole keeping those gears together when removing the cog but what gear would i have to buy to be able to go backwards? Because i remember simply switching sides of the gear to convert it from regular to fixed gear. Help is much needed and appreciated 🙏🏼
I’m honestly not sure, sorry man!
Although you managed to remove the cassette, you didnt use the chain whip properly. the section of chain that is fixed at either end to the tool should contact the cassette.
Good vid, enjoy the SS life!!
Good to know, thanks!
For gear ratio, how does it difference between wheel size, let's say 16 inch wheel. Thank you
I own Hardtail MTB which is a DJ Bike or Some Call it A Free Rider Bike Because of my setup it is Single Speed Cogs the Chainring is 34t and my Single Sprocket is 13t some said I should Go on a 32t Chainring but I need Something that can get me some a little bit of speed when I am on a Flat Road so that's why I chose 34t Chainring so everything for me is Balanced. but Yea it is Fun Using Single Speed Sprocket because my old Setup is an XC which is 3x9 Speed problem is when in repair and parts it cost a lot when I go to a Bike Shop just to tune it fix everything but when I built a Dj Bike which is all Single Speed it lessen the need for money for repairs so which is neat for me who can't afford and Buy expensive parts for my Bike because all of my part is Just low end.
Sounds like a fun setup, enjoy it!
Great content thank you. Subscribed. One small nitpick, I think you forgot pi. Distance per pedal Rev would be gear inches times 3.14.
Thank you Tom! I double checked after your comment, and I don’t believe that’s included in the equation, though I see how you could get there! Here’s a cool article that goes in depth into the formula! bike.bikegremlin.com/6199/gear-inches-explained/
Looks like adding pi gets you an actual numerical quantity of the wheels’ movement, but isn’t used in practice when calculating/comparing gear inches in lay-term
@Riding With Josh and Wendy yup, makes sense. Now for the real question, does riding single speed turn you into a beast, and how long does it take?
Haha only time will tell! I’ve only gotten out on one ride since the switch and it was TOUGH! I plan to make a video with my thoughts on it after a few months of trying it out
Gear inches are equal to the wheel diameter ...
Development is how far you travel with each pedal revolution
Hi there i know this is an old video
But I’ve been walking around with the idea to convert my 2015 26” Giant XTC1 into a single speed. I have a mint which I train and sometimes race. I would use the single speed for just commuting and hit some easy trails. I wonder which gear ratio will be the best. 30/16x 26?
It’s really dependent on your terrain/fitness/etc, but that sounds like a good place to start! I talk a bit more about it in this video, check it out: th-cam.com/video/y_FV-3O61SQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1ElH38lkk3AphiHT
i rode a 15t cog by 50t chainring for over a year and it really makes the whole bike feel like its a part of you, when i had gears it felt like a machine but as soon as i changed it (originally 15:32t) it felt like an extension of me rather than just a bike, as time went on i bought a bmx and fixed gear purely because of the experience i had with my mtb and when i get a better mtb soon, you know im making it singlespeed.
50:15?!!? That’s nuts! Your legs are machines haha!!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy it’s easy riding downhill or flat and if you maintain speed it’s not too bad uphill
😵💫😵💫😵💫😱😱😱
50/15 that is 3.333 to 1 ratio! What size tires/rims are you on? It’s hard to imagine a ratio like that working on anything other than down a hill.
Hello! You gear inch computations are actually unnecessary. All you had to do was go out and do single speed simulations, that is, choose a gear on your geared bike and never shift. You could thus test out different gear ratios for different trails, and choose your single speed setup that way.
That's definitely a good start! As I've already begun to find, there's a pretty big difference between how efficiently you can pedal a gear ration with and without the added rotational weight of the cassette and drag of the derailleur. Using gear inches is also a good way to talk about gearings between different riders.
Reason #1 simplicity,reason #2 the lightest mtb, reason #3 the body english you learn by riding one can help you climb a hill on a trail in ways none can understand until they ride a singlespeed. I do not endorse fixie though. cheers.
From personal experience i hate rhis suggestion my lbs tries to say that all the time when its just not the same especially when your trying to do things on a budget as is i had rode my 98 mantra comp as a half ass single speed in the same way for a good 6 months before i got tired of changing my chain line by hand and decides to take a 3x crank and turn it into an ideal 1x for free
I have 32/22 on a 29 wheel. I tried what you said but there is no 22 tooth cog on most cassettes. I used the 24 for test purposes. It was more important to me to stay on the bike than to go faster on descents. Anything smaller than 22 on the back and I'd have to get off and walk.
I'm also single speed but my chainring is a lot bigger (has more teeth) than than the ring at the wheel..
Great video !! 👍 super keen to give this a try on my chameleon ;)
Do it, tons of fun!!
Your bike was backwards in the stand. Drivetrain out is usually easier to work on.
Haha so true, but the shot was framed better the other way. Oh the vanity 😂
Half the fun of riding a good bike is going up and down the cassette and always maximising my output. So I'll never understand something like a singer speed mtb.
Also, the "chain whip" tool for removing the cassette is the biggest waste of money ever. I just remove the chain, stand the wheel up on the ground, run the chain across the top of the cassette and stand on it, then unscrew the locking nut.. Done
To each their own!
I agree repo, I've yet to hear any logical explanations behind it. I believe it's a mind game placebo effect and nothing more.
Converted to SS because it's sick and way cooler. End of video, 15 seconds!
Hahaha so true 😂
I decided to try single speed when my rear derailleur broke. Since I'm using a frame with fixed vertical dropout and no luck to get the chain perfect tension for my 18t-36t gearing, it makes me forced to use a chain tensioner. I'm too lazy to straighten my derailleur hanger again, but that's not a big problem since I don't like the look of those tensioner that you put there. Instead of that, I use a BB-mount tensioner which is the Blackspire Stinger 2x, finally got the perfect tension without disturbing the neatness look of a single speed setup!
That’s awesome! I’ve heard of people using eccentric BBs for tensioning a single speed. Sounds super tedious, glad you figured it out!
2nd gear is stand up!3rd pedal harder! 4th pump side to side! You single gear guys know what I mean lol! Single speed is best 👌
Haha sounds about right!
Your chain is too loose, there's a big chance it'll came off if you jump. You're right if it's too tight it'll cause problemes tto, but here the rule of tumb isthe chain is tight enough if it's in a straight line at the top of the chainwheels, it's too loose it has a curve in it.
I thankfully haven’t had any issues yet! I like doing crankflips which requires the pedals to spin with pretty much zero friction. I do run a chain guide, so I’m sure that’s helping!
I mostly ride single speed, since my derailleur doesn't shift usually. But, I believe converting your bike to a single speed is a foolish choice. Because, on windy days, you really can benefit from shifting gears.
Wouldn't you calculate gear inches with circumference?
I’m not a math whizz, but here’s some more info on gear inches if you want to learn more: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_inches
Hopefully you've learned how to use a chain whip correctly since this video came out 😮
Other than that, great message, top content! 🤘
Lol ya, had a few comments on that and I’ve since learned, thank you!
just a question if i can swap it out for a coaster hub so i have breaks or it just doesnt fit?
Hmm, not sure! You’d have to see what hub spacing your frame has and make sure the new hub is the same
Gracias 🙏🏻
why not try a 3, 5 or 7 speed hub instead?
Good question! Because you still have the derailleur, and eliminating the drag/fragility/clutter of a derailleur is one of the biggest reasons I chose to try single speeds out.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy there's no derailleur in a speed hub. Eg. The alfine. It's fairly concealed, and while can have a bit more weight, it is sealed and has the ability to use a belt or chain.
Sorry, missed that! Yes, I actually would be interested in trying one, as well as a gearbox! Have you had much experience with multi-speed hubs?
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy not much, but i've tried a few on a commuter bikes that wheelied well, haha. I'm not sure if that's a great application for a proper speed-oriented enduro bike, but for a jib bike which is a single-speed already, having a few extra options might be an interesting test. The main drawback usually is the weight associated on the rear hub, which again is not really an issue on a hardtail.
My thinking is that it could be a great maintenance-free alternative to such a bike similar to yours, whilst being more flexible than a single speed. They also come quite inexpensive now days (like the Shimano alfine) and I found it very nice to pedal about with one. Also the dishing is almost symetrical which is a great addition to wheel stiffness.
That’s super cool, thanks for filling me in! I’ll have to keep my eye on the market for one to test out!
Master one gear is a thing.. I have a 26 bmx that's geared high enough the fixie guys can't just out spin me and I outperform these guys on the street all the time.. I have a 30 x 13t set up and that's about as high as I can go and still climb and I do that by standing up and cranking and using my upper body.. of course none of this would be possible if I didn't do allot of work in the gym but it sure is fun trolling guys on multi speed bikes..
If you want to do single speed my recommendation is squats and more squats.
Nice, thanks for the tip!
Yeah, always helps you look better when comparing yourself to weekend riders who also don't have time to live in the gym like you do. Plenty of people would destroy you on their geared bikes, but I bet you don't seek them out, huh?
@@MotoAtheist A guy in good shape on a gravel bike that knows how to ride in traffic and is just as willing as me to break traffic laws will always outperform me on my SS.. but I just got an Ibis DV9 frame in the mail today I'm going to build up for the street so it should get interesting..
Ya' didn't quite get the definition of gear inches right. It's not how far the bike rolls in one revolution. It's the diameter of an imaginary direct drive bike wheel. So 60 gear inches would be like a high wheeler (penny farthing) with a 5 foot diameter wheel. A 60" diameter wheel has a circumference of 188.4", which is how far you roll with one revolution of the cranks, with 60 gear inches.
I like single speed. But not for MTB. I like to go fast on the trail and the ability to accelerate out the corners.
I think you’d be surprised by how much riding a single speed helps with that! You’re a whole lot less likely to grab a fistful of breaks into a corner when you know you can’t just pedal your way out - really forces you to learn how to carry your momentum
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy I agree 100% however I'm talking overall speed depending on the type of trail. I'd say single speed is great for groomed trails or pump tracks but gnarly single tracks with some mighty climbs the rider better have the power to lay down the watts. On the flats they may feel like they need a bigger front chainring because they maxed out
There are definitely fast MTB riders on a single speed that are fit as well as skilled but I still think it's a slight disadvantage.
But it's all good. It's about enjoying the ride~ 🙌🏻
Ya, it’s definitely not the tool for winning races. But I honestly thought it slow me down a ton more on the descents, which I’m sure it has to a degree, but it’s also helped me get better at staying off the brakes which has been cool! But yes, I’ll definitely be switching back before enduro racing starts again this spring haha
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Right on! Single speed makes your legs and cardio stronger and develops better bike skills overall. Come racing season I'm sure you'll see big improvements. Cheers dude! 🙌🏻😀
I take my singlespeed on a group ride every week in the summer. I'm always in the front on the climbs. I will usually put myself about 3rd or 4th on the descent and it usually works quite well. I would probably go in the front all the time if I wasn't on a rigid fork. If speed is truly what you're worried about, a singlespeed is faster. You just have to find the gear that works for you and your wheel size.
Now we just need some maniac to do a fixie mtb. That would be truly unacceptable levels of hipsterdom
There's some crazy folks out there doing it!
you make good videos
Thank you!! Glad you enjoy them!
oh i have 80.8 28/9x26
Gnarly! You pedal that thing up hills?!
I want to do that and then convert it into an electric bike.
Singlespeed cogs are NOT omni-directional, unless you get the cheap steel stamped kind. Quality SS cogs are absolutely biased.
Negative, the reason multi-speed cogs are directional is because the have machined “ramps” to assist the chain in moving up the cassette, SS cogs are essentially small chainrings; no directionality needed 🤙
Can't you just leave your bike in your preferred gear,? Surely then it's a " single speed"?
Surprisingly different ride fee when you take off a pound of unsprung weight and the friction of a derailleur! Give it a try, single speed cogs cost less than $20 👍
Single speed is not for those with weak leg muscles. Uphills will be torture 😵
sick!!!! i have also been wondering how oval chainrings perform in a single speed setup as the maximize the point u put more power on the cranks ( the larger part) while allowing the recovery part to be quicker (smaller part) th-cam.com/video/mZ_7cIzKh9w/w-d-xo.html
I’ve heard a lot of good things about them on single speeds! Seems crazy to me that they work without having a derailleur/chain tensioner to take up the slack of the smaller part of the ring, but I’ve seen a lot of people do it!
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy wow, I assumed there would have to be a tensioner
Ya, doesn’t make sense to me either haha 🤷♂️
No tensioner is needed because a 30T round chainring is the same circumference as a 30T oval. Picture a horizontal line from the center of the chainring to the front edge. On a round chainring that distance is always the same as it spins so clearly there’s no problem with the chain length. But on an oval chainring that distance changes as it spins and so it would seem like the chain wouldn’t work. It would have to stretch and contract or have a tensioner to take up the slack. But what you’re forgetting is that on the vertical axis the distance is decreasing as the horizontal distance increases. So, at the same time that the chain needs to get longer when the oval is horizontal it also needs to get shorter for the vertical distance and in a sense is then stretching and contracting. I hope I explained that clearly.
@@kad1017 Sadly not the case, though the logic stands haha! If you’ve ever seen an oval chainring on a geared bike you can see the derailleur compensating for the chain growth. Here’s a video showing that:
th-cam.com/video/kf6fTqaLysg/w-d-xo.html
People get away with it by running a large enough ring partnered with a chain guide so that chain won’t hit the chain stays.
Because the marketing people are telling you to.
its not a cog, its a sprocket!
Haha I think both apply here. Sprocket also happens to be the name our dog! Full name is Sprocket the Dirt Jump Dog, he makes appearances from time to time
Says he worked in a bike shop and uses a chain whip like that
it would be a lot cheaper to lock out the derailleur and never change gears
A lot easier but a completely different feel, read the comments for more on that
I'm with you Egon, singlespeed makes no sense logically and I don't buy the drastic difference in feel at all, it's simply a placebo effect at best. Talking about 1.5 pounds at most being taken off. Downhill, I can understand not wanting the derail and chain slapping around back there, the advantage is obvious, but any other normal trail system, singlespeed makes no logical sense whatsoever. Not buying the faster claims or any other claims.
Bro you look like klay!
Haha who’s that??
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Klay Thompson bro! Haha nice beard man!
Oh nice! Thank you 🤙🤙
Whatever helps you feel special.
🤙
Looks like something the cracked out homeless street people do. I’ve seen a lot of bums on the streets with single speed conversions.
Some truth in this. When you need an old derailleur bike rolling but the rear mech is broken/bend/whatever just remove it, put the chain on whichever rear sprocket is best in line with the front sprocket, shorten it accordingly and pedal on. Also do onor bikes that end up in Afrika ride exclusive this way.
However there are some serious mountainbikers doing this for the other benefits
Simplicity isn’t just for simple people!
Yes, that’s me!
Why convert? Just ride in the one gear you choose.
Yes, all the people who talk about the fitness benefits of riding a single speed overlook the fact that you get the exact same workout for free by just choosing a gear on your geared bike and never shifting. I have been doing that for the last year.
Lots of reasons! I talk about them towards the end of the video. But some of them are simplicity, efficiency, and weight.
@@ilanpi That'll get you the fitness benefits, and then some! It's actually pretty crazy how much easier it is to ride a SS setup than a geared bike in the same gear ratio. I think that mostly comes down to reduced rotating weight (no cassette) and virtually zero drag (no derailleur). The bike accelerates a ton better and it's a bit less of a grind to climb.
@@ilanpi That's what I thought and did but there's more to it than just the weight.
@@ridingwithjoshandwendy Logically that makes zero sense about drag issues and what not... just shift one gear easier and the ratio makes up for any drag issues of running the harder gear, that's kind of the whole point of gears, you can find the sweet spot for maximizing performance for whatever section of trail you are on at the moment. The only way a singlespeed is going to beat a geared bike is rider ability. Start up a hill and the geared bike can shift down and blast up that hill, the singlespeeder can't adjust and has to deal with the tougher pedaling. Fitness for fitness, the geared rider will easily out climb the singlespeeder.
Very nice!!! You really need to look into 'promosm'!!!