@@technoxtreme178 Yeah! I did a re-wiring one a couple years ago and it just wasn't very fun. It was cool, but it was frustrating to drive. This one is WAY better. No comparison.
Man I wish I would have seen this 3 weeks ago!!!!!!!!!!!!! I built my own, finished just the other day. Wasn't real complicated, but definitely not this easy!!! Will probably do this setup also so my wife, or a buddy can go cruising!!
@@rcautoball I did it the "hard" way. I used the board out of an old transmitter, and soldered the pots to the required spots. I don't get a lot of distance because I used a pretty old radio, but more than enough to drive around the crawler park. I install the board inside the cover of the wheel housing with a power supply and on off switch attached to the outside of the cover. I also attached the 3 way switch for channel 3 to the outside in case I wanted to operate a winch or lights remotely. So far I'm loving it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@scratchbuilder101 I did that a couple years ago with an Xbox 360 steering wheel and pedals. It was a cool novelty, but I didn't really feel like it was a good experience to drive with. This one is 1000x better.
I had NO idea that the Nobel could do this! I put FPV on my XMaxx to ride around the yard "with" my kids on their powerwheels and always thought having a wheel and pedals would be next level, but the complexity steered me away from it. This is super slick though! I will need to upgrade my Nobel, so thanks for spending my hobby budget for the next few months 😂
@@JacobScherer 😂😂 Just make sure it's an NB4 Pro or NB4 Pro+. It won't work on the regular NB4 or NB4+. This setup is very driveable and is an awesome experience. If my wife would let me, I would stay at the track all day driving this. Lol
I was just in the process of converting my losi 5t with fpv with the GM3 Gimbal and Walksnail Goggles L. Looks Like I'll have to upgrade my nb4 and bya G29 to do this next and have my kid try it soon!
Set the deadzone to 0 on each channel, so even in the wheel you won’t have that play. The play is caused by the motors not giving any ffb under 10% of the rotation value. Deadzone is used for joysticks only to prevent stickdrift on worn out centers of some potientiometers, but on a hall sensor its nothing to wear out. Other reason is for the pedals. You should remove deadzone so you have the top part of the pedal’s travel responding to your inputs. Adittionally give it a slight curve to your taste to give it more precise control, more precision in the low end, and slowly building up to the high end (like in fpv drones, low end is smooth untill like 75% stick travel, after that is going up very exponentially, to have almost instant gas when you really need it) Hope i hepled with my very long and exhausting to read comment 😃✌️
@@luismorales-x4v That VRX in the video has a mini HDMI out. You can buy an HDMI mini to HDMI cord on Amazon and run it from the VRX to any TV that supports 720p or 1080p inputs (pretty much anything these days). FYI, indoor TVs don't do well outside unless there is some good shade. They are not bright outside at all. They're somewhere around 250 nits and a lot of outdoor TVs will be 1000+ nits.
@@codymccain9051 Me, personally, I like the sticks more because it's more like a video game controller. I have some PS5 controllers custom programmed to drive my RCs and I prefer using those over the pistol style transmitters.
@@Rckid28 Oh, I bought those for some events I was running locally. I had a couple of TVs (hooked up to the VRXs) set up a little distance from the players wearing the goggles that were broadcasting and was having some issues. Those little guys fixed it. I think they are $20/pair on Amazon and Getfpv.com. I can link them if you want.
Well, kind of. The most difficult part with cheaper analog cameras is getting the live picture to a TV. I don't know if some of the mobile FPV monitors have a video out (if they do, it's not likely to be HDMI; it would be an analog RCA out). But, you could do this the cheapest with an analog FPV camera with built-in video transmitter for around $20 and a mobile monitor or cheap analog FPV goggles for around $40-80. Keep in mind that the image will NOT look anything close to as good as digital. But, it is still a very inexpensive way to see if you live FPV or not. That's how I started!
@@nolanhunt2011 I have no idea. I did a quick search and couldn't find anything that says it accepts external input devices. The only things I saw were USB charging and micro SD card.
You need to get an HDMI to USB converter and use Sidequest to load a program to be able to view the HDMI Input. Then get a Walksnail VRX that has HDMI output.
@@TravisGintzHow would the latency be with that? My hypothesis is that it would be noticeable and possibly make the experience not as good. You wouldn't be able to use the head tracking either, unless you did a separate PPM head tracking module. At that point, you might as well get the Goggles L or Goggles X.
@@rcautoball I was using OpenHD (A raspberry pi/long distance wifi project) and it worked well without adding too much latency. I've since switched to Siyi MK32 with a wifi connection for RTSP video feed that works well enough to drive, but not as low latency as Walksnail since it's also relaying telemetry data and RC signals.
@@rcautoball I need to get some video. I've got a DBXL-E, racing sim with motion, Pixhawk autopilot with GPS and telem and camera system. I can get the telemetry to my motion rig to move it as the vehicle moves. System is designed, just need to work more on mounting and getting things configured.
Does the flysky system have to be a Pro version? Will the Flysky Noble NB4+ work as well? I also have a DJI goggles v2 any ideas/suggestions on setting it up on the cheap? Any thoughts on the CloudRC setup? $400 for a setup.
@@ariesr4883 Only the Pro and Pro+. NB4 and NB4+ do not support it. I am waiting on the $400 CloudRC radio setup (not the 4G/5G system system) to arrive. I'm gonna be testing it out to see how it compares. If it's just as good, that will probably be my recommendation. I will certainly let you know after I try it out!
@@ariesr4883 It can't. This has been asked in the Flysky groups on Facebook. Your other options are to try to score a used NB4 Pro (not Pro+) on eBay or Facebook Marketplace. I've seen them for around the same price as a new NB4+. CloudRC also makes a kit that uses radio instead of 4G/5G for $400. I've got one of those getting delivered tomorrow. I'll try it out and see if it's as good as this one. If it is, then that means you'd be able to get driving for $100 less.
I saw your post on IG about this and IMMEDIATELY switched apps. Awesome work dude. I’m hyped to try this with my gear!!!
@@willsintheair Hell yeah! You're gonna love it!
Welcome to the future of RC...
Thank you for this. I've only been waiting 12 years for a surface vehicle transmitter that's plug and play with a wheel and does not need rewiring..
@@technoxtreme178 Yeah! I did a re-wiring one a couple years ago and it just wasn't very fun. It was cool, but it was frustrating to drive. This one is WAY better. No comparison.
Ive wrecked a few wheel/pedal sets 'experimenting'. Never worked. This looks awesome.
Man I wish I would have seen this 3 weeks ago!!!!!!!!!!!!! I built my own, finished just the other day. Wasn't real complicated, but definitely not this easy!!! Will probably do this setup also so my wife, or a buddy can go cruising!!
@@scratchbuilder101 Hell yeah! Are you running 4G/5G or radio?
@@rcautoball I did it the "hard" way. I used the board out of an old transmitter, and soldered the pots to the required spots. I don't get a lot of distance because I used a pretty old radio, but more than enough to drive around the crawler park. I install the board inside the cover of the wheel housing with a power supply and on off switch attached to the outside of the cover. I also attached the 3 way switch for channel 3 to the outside in case I wanted to operate a winch or lights remotely. So far I'm loving it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@scratchbuilder101 I did that a couple years ago with an Xbox 360 steering wheel and pedals. It was a cool novelty, but I didn't really feel like it was a good experience to drive with. This one is 1000x better.
Amazing guide! Cannot wait to try this setup myself! Thanks!
@@Cloud10794 You got it!
I had NO idea that the Nobel could do this! I put FPV on my XMaxx to ride around the yard "with" my kids on their powerwheels and always thought having a wheel and pedals would be next level, but the complexity steered me away from it. This is super slick though! I will need to upgrade my Nobel, so thanks for spending my hobby budget for the next few months 😂
@@JacobScherer 😂😂 Just make sure it's an NB4 Pro or NB4 Pro+. It won't work on the regular NB4 or NB4+. This setup is very driveable and is an awesome experience. If my wife would let me, I would stay at the track all day driving this. Lol
Stoked to check this out🙌
Me again from fb to i.g to this 😅 dang thanks again . I go have thw G29 just looking for a good RC car now or truck.
I was just in the process of converting my losi 5t with fpv with the GM3 Gimbal and Walksnail Goggles L. Looks Like I'll have to upgrade my nb4 and bya G29 to do this next and have my kid try it soon!
@@hank5747 Yeah, do it! It'll be extra awesome with that 5T!
I can't even find any mention of the Noble Pro+ supporting HID input devices at all, let alone FF wheels. Cool.
@@espressomatic Flysky has it in the manual listed as "game handle." Lol
Awesome! Thanks!
@@prohumanityperspective You got it!
so cool
@@multinaute Thank you!
Set the deadzone to 0 on each channel, so even in the wheel you won’t have that play. The play is caused by the motors not giving any ffb under 10% of the rotation value. Deadzone is used for joysticks only to prevent stickdrift on worn out centers of some potientiometers, but on a hall sensor its nothing to wear out. Other reason is for the pedals. You should remove deadzone so you have the top part of the pedal’s travel responding to your inputs. Adittionally give it a slight curve to your taste to give it more precise control, more precision in the low end, and slowly building up to the high end (like in fpv drones, low end is smooth untill like 75% stick travel, after that is going up very exponentially, to have almost instant gas when you really need it)
Hope i hepled with my very long and exhausting to read comment 😃✌️
@@SpontirigProductions I'm taking out both of my rigs tomorrow. I'll give it a shot and see how it drives! Thanks!
@ keep me updated ✌️
can you plug in some high end direct drive wheel bases aswell? - the deadzone seems to be very excessive for serious apex hitting
@@christoph3500 As of now, the only supported wheels are the Logitech G29 and Thrustmaster T300RS, unfortunately.
grate video ... if I where to use a tv screen instead of the goggles how can I do that ?
@@luismorales-x4v That VRX in the video has a mini HDMI out. You can buy an HDMI mini to HDMI cord on Amazon and run it from the VRX to any TV that supports 720p or 1080p inputs (pretty much anything these days). FYI, indoor TVs don't do well outside unless there is some good shade. They are not bright outside at all. They're somewhere around 250 nits and a lot of outdoor TVs will be 1000+ nits.
@ thank you very much… really appreciate the information
@@luismorales-x4v You got it, man!
Ok I have the nb4 pro and all the fpv gear so I just need my rig and the PlayStation wheel setup
Yeah! Do it!
question i always had is why the transmitter is a trigger and side wheel and not just joysticks like air transmitters?
@@codymccain9051 Me, personally, I like the sticks more because it's more like a video game controller. I have some PS5 controllers custom programmed to drive my RCs and I prefer using those over the pistol style transmitters.
What antennas do you have on your VRX? What’s wrong with the stock ones?
@@Rckid28 Oh, I bought those for some events I was running locally. I had a couple of TVs (hooked up to the VRXs) set up a little distance from the players wearing the goggles that were broadcasting and was having some issues. Those little guys fixed it. I think they are $20/pair on Amazon and Getfpv.com. I can link them if you want.
Can you do it using a tv and more cheap camera ?
Well, kind of. The most difficult part with cheaper analog cameras is getting the live picture to a TV. I don't know if some of the mobile FPV monitors have a video out (if they do, it's not likely to be HDMI; it would be an analog RCA out). But, you could do this the cheapest with an analog FPV camera with built-in video transmitter for around $20 and a mobile monitor or cheap analog FPV goggles for around $40-80. Keep in mind that the image will NOT look anything close to as good as digital. But, it is still a very inexpensive way to see if you live FPV or not. That's how I started!
Will this work for any wheel with a usb plug or only specific wheels?
@@jhejhobbies5850 The only wheels that Flysky lists as supported are the Logitech G29 and Thrustmaster T300RS.
Will a Sanwa M17 work for this?
@@nolanhunt2011 I have no idea. I did a quick search and couldn't find anything that says it accepts external input devices. The only things I saw were USB charging and micro SD card.
What if I have an old meta quest can I use that and if would I just need the camera?? Really interested!!
You need to get an HDMI to USB converter and use Sidequest to load a program to be able to view the HDMI Input. Then get a Walksnail VRX that has HDMI output.
@@TravisGintzHow would the latency be with that? My hypothesis is that it would be noticeable and possibly make the experience not as good. You wouldn't be able to use the head tracking either, unless you did a separate PPM head tracking module. At that point, you might as well get the Goggles L or Goggles X.
@@rcautoball I was using OpenHD (A raspberry pi/long distance wifi project) and it worked well without adding too much latency. I've since switched to Siyi MK32 with a wifi connection for RTSP video feed that works well enough to drive, but not as low latency as Walksnail since it's also relaying telemetry data and RC signals.
@@TravisGintz Oh, that's pretty cool!
@@rcautoball I need to get some video. I've got a DBXL-E, racing sim with motion, Pixhawk autopilot with GPS and telem and camera system. I can get the telemetry to my motion rig to move it as the vehicle moves. System is designed, just need to work more on mounting and getting things configured.
Does the flysky system have to be a Pro version? Will the Flysky Noble NB4+ work as well?
I also have a DJI goggles v2 any ideas/suggestions on setting it up on the cheap?
Any thoughts on the CloudRC setup? $400 for a setup.
@@ariesr4883 Only the Pro and Pro+. NB4 and NB4+ do not support it. I am waiting on the $400 CloudRC radio setup (not the 4G/5G system system) to arrive. I'm gonna be testing it out to see how it compares. If it's just as good, that will probably be my recommendation. I will certainly let you know after I try it out!
Darn I was about to order the non pro + if it did. Big price difference 😢 wonder if firmware can add the Logitech protocol….
@@ariesr4883 It can't. This has been asked in the Flysky groups on Facebook. Your other options are to try to score a used NB4 Pro (not Pro+) on eBay or Facebook Marketplace. I've seen them for around the same price as a new NB4+. CloudRC also makes a kit that uses radio instead of 4G/5G for $400. I've got one of those getting delivered tomorrow. I'll try it out and see if it's as good as this one. If it is, then that means you'd be able to get driving for $100 less.
I bought the cloudrc setup... in the process right now of getting my money back!!!! NEVER COULD GET IT TO WORK!!!!!!!!!!
@ oh really thanks for the info… kinda wonder if it was gonna be a hit or miss…
Oh no mines the nb4 plus … not the pro. I don’t have the handle icon
Nooooo😭
First!