Hi Colin, When gluing end grain, I found mixing the yellow glue with water, about 50/50, and brush that on the end grain. Wait till it set and then use full strength glue to actually finish. This seals the end grain without getting a thick glue line.
Hi Colin. When removing glue with an old chisel, there are two points that were missed: first, you want to remove the glue once it "skin's over" - when it's rubbery but not fully dried (which gets hard enough with TiteBond III to nick a planer blade). Second, you have to use the chisel bevel-side down, and not up. This keeps the chisel from gouging a grove as you described. The scraper is a good idea, though.
I have two 9 1/2’ x 3 1/2’ large panels, it’s 8/4 red oak, I used a Makita belt sander with a sanding square and flattened both panels, but I noticed that there is still glued stains in the glue joints. What would be the best way to remove this dried glue? I plan on using an orbital sander and sanding to 150, because I will be staining a dark walnut, but I know if I do not get rid of this glue in the joints, it will be a disaster when I add the stain. Will the orbital sander get rid of the glue stains in the joints? Or is there another method I should use?
In this video you said you don’t like using a chisel to scrape dried glue from boards but earlier in a video I watched you had created a jig to hold a chisel for scraping off dried glue. I have heard both ways so I am not sure which is best?
Hi Colin. I pay special attention to wiping and scraping away the excess glue for panel glue-ups. My problem is that I always see glue marks once I apply wood stain. Obviously the glue does not adhere to the glue so it looks unsightly once the stain is applied. Sanding might be the only solution but it is difficult to know how much sanding as the glue blends into pine wood. Any tips will be appreciated.
I use salt when gluing up all the time... just a few grains is more than enough to prevent the wood from sliding around, yet does not affect the bond strength. Sugar doesn't work - heard the crystals aren't sharp enough. (I was actually going to type this tip as a comment when I saw yours.)
Next tips ;) - mix saw dust with glue (PVA, epoxy or other glue) for use as filler or primer sometime - use vacuum bag for gluing some wood piece (because the pressure of the atmosphere is approximately equal to 1 kg on each 1 cm²), for example ideal for laminating and suitable for curvilinear surfaces that can not be pulled together by clamps Of course, there are many more tips, but so far nothing else comes to mind :)
To help keep glue parts from sliding against each other, put just a very tiny amount of table salt in the glue before putting the pieces together. It creates just enough grit to keep the pieces from sliding, and as long as you don't put too much it, it won't interfere with the strength of the bond.
Hey Colin, nice video as always. Just one question, I have a problem when I glue up a cross joint, after I have removed the excess and it is dry I get a stain on the wood which is super hard to remove by sanding, specially inside a cabinet, I guess pre-finish would help, but do you think it might be the type of glue? Or do you have any other tip? Thanks
I heave heard you an put table salt in between the faces to help prevent them from slipping when clamping because of the may points the salt creates when under pressure pushing into the wood. I have yet to try this myself so if someone has tried it and it doesn't work, please let me know
Remove the glue from a lamination just after it has congealed but not fully hardened, around twenty minutes. That way you can avoid pulling up the wood and avoid smearing it everywhere.
Coln, I noticed you left out a Very Smart Tip when You are using the Two Part Epoxy... You mix on a pad of sticky note!!! Done trash the sheet used and you are ready for the next Epoxy Job.
Stains are the least of my concerns with gluing. For me gluing is an exercise in futility. I don't know that I've ever successfully glued anything together. I need an education on the subject. There should probably be a whole class dedicated to it. Which types of glue work on which types of materials. What's the most you can do but also what's the VERY least you need to do to make sure a bond holds.
Gluing is often an underestimated task in terms of difficulty. Thanks for these hacks, they'll come in handy! :)
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
I've watched a lot of Colin's videos, but this is one of his best. Great tips that everyone can use!
You have a great way of presenting and you speak well. Thanks for all the great help.
You're welcome Michael!
I'm really enjoying your Tips and Tricks series, Colin. Some of them I've seen, but there's always one or two that I haven't. Thanks for all.
I'm Glad you like them Jim! Thanks for watching.
Hi Colin, When gluing end grain, I found mixing the yellow glue with water, about 50/50, and brush that on the end grain. Wait till it set and then use full strength glue to actually finish. This seals the end grain without getting a thick glue line.
Pre gluing! Great tip Calvin. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tips, Colin!!! Keep em coming!!!
great advice,easy to follow and good examples of why and how! thanks
You're welcome Ken
thanks Colin, especially the one about the scraper on dried glue, cheers
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Love the way he explains things legend
once again a very useful tutorial. I know now the cause of those stains i discovered after some glueing. Thanks again and again Colin.
Thanks for the glue up tips Colin
these thing are really good advice especially our younger beginners great work
Glad you like them Louis. Thanks for watching!
Like your quick tips/hacks series, thanks Colin
Enjoy your tips and tricks, thanks for sharing.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching Dale!
Thanks Colin, i enjoy your video tips.
You're welcome Harry. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful Colin. Thanks 😊
You're welcome!
I love your tips Colin, Thank you for sharing them with me. 👍
Pre-glue works really well for MDF edges too. Night-and-day difference on a particular project I was working on.
Thanks a lot. Useful stuff
You're welcome Barry!
Thanks for the hacks Colin.
I love your videos friend, in new to it and learn a lot from you, thank you !
You're Welcome!
Nice tips Colin & always scrape with the grain.
Thanks Joe
You’re fun :)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Hi Colin. When removing glue with an old chisel, there are two points that were missed: first, you want to remove the glue once it "skin's over" - when it's rubbery but not fully dried (which gets hard enough with TiteBond III to nick a planer blade). Second, you have to use the chisel bevel-side down, and not up. This keeps the chisel from gouging a grove as you described. The scraper is a good idea, though.
I have two 9 1/2’ x 3 1/2’ large panels, it’s 8/4 red oak, I used a Makita belt sander with a sanding square and flattened both panels, but I noticed that there is still glued stains in the glue joints. What would be the best way to remove this dried glue? I plan on using an orbital sander and sanding to 150, because I will be staining a dark walnut, but I know if I do not get rid of this glue in the joints, it will be a disaster when I add the stain. Will the orbital sander get rid of the glue stains in the joints? Or is there another method I should use?
👍👍👍👍filed for future use!
Thanks for watching Alan!
In this video you said you don’t like using a chisel to scrape dried glue from boards but earlier in a video I watched you had created a jig to hold a chisel for scraping off dried glue. I have heard both ways so I am not sure which is best?
Tip 4 is a life saving one
Thanks
Hi Colin. I pay special attention to wiping and scraping away the excess glue for panel glue-ups. My problem is that I always see glue marks once I apply wood stain. Obviously the glue does not adhere to the glue so it looks unsightly once the stain is applied. Sanding might be the only solution but it is difficult to know how much sanding as the glue blends into pine wood. Any tips will be appreciated.
Colin, I see some woodworkers using salt on the glue joints, what is your thoughts on this?
I use salt when gluing up all the time... just a few grains is more than enough to prevent the wood from sliding around, yet does not affect the bond strength. Sugar doesn't work - heard the crystals aren't sharp enough. (I was actually going to type this tip as a comment when I saw yours.)
Next tips ;)
- mix saw dust with glue (PVA, epoxy or other glue) for use as filler or primer sometime
- use vacuum bag for gluing some wood piece (because the pressure of the atmosphere is approximately equal to 1 kg on each 1 cm²), for example ideal for laminating and suitable for curvilinear surfaces that can not be pulled together by clamps
Of course, there are many more tips, but so far nothing else comes to mind :)
Thanks for sharing your tips!
Colin unfortunately I can not make a video of this and show as cool as You do :(.
I have the same scraper and would like to know how to sharpen the blade. Thanks
+DC H I have a video moon sharpening wood scrapers here th-cam.com/video/vhonlI4Sqvk/w-d-xo.html
Good tips Colin. How do you clean and sharpen your scraper?
+Michael Anderson I have a old video on that here th-cam.com/video/vhonlI4Sqvk/w-d-xo.html
I bonded with this video
LMAO ... thanks for watching Larry
Thanks Colin, great tips. Air nail? Is that just pressing the trigger with no nails or brads loaded?
Ha ha I thought that too...like an air kiss!
I use wax paper, keeps the glue from sticking to my wood screw clamps
Good Tip!
To help keep glue parts from sliding against each other, put just a very tiny amount of table salt in the glue before putting the pieces together. It creates just enough grit to keep the pieces from sliding, and as long as you don't put too much it, it won't interfere with the strength of the bond.
Thanks for the tip!
Awesome video your jig is so simple thank you for sharing I must let you know that all your videos are great I enjoy watching
Thank you Anthony!
Great
Colin is a Canadian genious
Thank You!
You are Canadian right? I hope to be someday.
Hey Colin, nice video as always. Just one question, I have a problem when I glue up a cross joint, after I have removed the excess and it is dry I get a stain on the wood which is super hard to remove by sanding, specially inside a cabinet, I guess pre-finish would help, but do you think it might be the type of glue? Or do you have any other tip? Thanks
Oh by the way. . . I've been watching you for about 2 plus years Thanks for the Education. "A wood butcher from way back."
If I'm stack gluing,I put table salt on the glued parts.works pretty well
Hi Colin what is an air nail
That's Canadian for Brad nailer
I heave heard you an put table salt in between the faces to help prevent them from slipping when clamping because of the may points the salt creates when under pressure pushing into the wood.
I have yet to try this myself so if someone has tried it and it doesn't work, please let me know
Deputy Dawg It works
Oh no, I have dried glue on the corner of shelves,, I am trying to sand it out. I am afraid glue will affect my staining. Suggestions
Bar clamps: don’t mess with plastic wrap, just put a piece of blue masking tape on.
Good tip Nick!
A decent clear plastic packing tape works great. It lasts longer than many other tape varieties, or plastic wrap/wax paper.
Or scrape the glue by pulling the chisel backwards while the Bevil is pointing away from the pulling direction
1- I use saran wrap, talking about glue, what glue do you know of that accepts stain and finish?
Remove the glue from a lamination just after it has congealed but not fully hardened, around twenty minutes. That way you can avoid pulling up the wood and avoid smearing it everywhere.
Coln, I noticed you left out a Very Smart Tip when You are using the Two Part Epoxy... You mix on a pad of sticky note!!! Done trash the sheet used and you are ready for the next Epoxy Job.
Your becoming a hacker colin lol
good stuff though bro!🍻🥞
I get a stain From my jorges EVERYTIME i make an end grain cutting board 😬
Hopefully no more stains now Joe :)
Stains are the least of my concerns with gluing. For me gluing is an exercise in futility. I don't know that I've ever successfully glued anything together. I need an education on the subject. There should probably be a whole class dedicated to it. Which types of glue work on which types of materials. What's the most you can do but also what's the VERY least you need to do to make sure a bond holds.
Get a plastic straw from fastfood place, "sharpen it" to a point and pull out wet glue from 90 degree joints then wipe with damp sanding foam block
I use galvanized pipes which don’t stain
Excess glue = cardscraper job if already dry.
😍😉😉
Wax the pipes no marks on wood or giue sticking
End grain would be better with a scarf joint, more surface area. ;)
A usted lo pagan por los videos?
Ist to comment again... ;)
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