Hey man thanks for all your awesome footage. One thing that helps with a brake cut, if you cut underneath your main cut instead of on top it breaks way nicer. Something an old boy taught me I thought I'd pass it along. Be safe out there!
Watching those big chunks come swinging back at you makes me think they need to let it run a little, at least to a safer place for the climber. Nicely documented.
Aye that would be nice. Unfortunately with the way the grcs works, you can't use the winch and then let rope through really fast. I'd rather have the winch function than the ability to let things run in those scenarios.
Hey you can always throw a tag line on some of those pieces that we're taking the big swings just throw a wrap around the stem above your lanyard then just pop it off quick once it settled on rigging spar. I work with alot of different ground guys an there not all great at rope work. If you have confidence in ground guys it probably not necessary cause they can just let it down some so it won't swing back at u but if your ever worried about it come back at u it a effective quick technique
Fair thought. I avoid using lines controlled by groundies and I should probably use them more often. Using a tag line that I control might be a happy medium for some stuff
I love the way you take the time to explain things. It would be nice if you could slow down a little and show how you tie your rope around a limb that has to be lowered. Also show a little more of the ground guy working at the base of the tree and exactly what he is doing.
Nice work... that's some biggggg wood... That 500i that's the lightest big saw you have for climbing..I have the 32 inch bar on mine.. don't think I want to climb with it... Great work ..
The 500i is the berries. I keep a 25" on it most of the time but have a 36" with a skip tooth chain for when I need something bigger. I don't blame you for not want to climb with a 32" bar 😬
I like the videos. I appreciate them and thank you for taking the time to make them I have learned so much from your channel. But is there a video that actually shows how to rig full chunk logs to the ground and how to tie the knots. Thanks again
Rigging those bigger pieces that you're using the peel cut will slide right off using and angled salami cut. Just get a micro wedge on a retractable Keychain for the backside of the cut. I clip mine right onto my harness suspenders.
@Tree Merc All good, there are a lot of old videos on here that I do lots of wrong stuff in. I learn so much from people in the comments and I'd always rather hearing something I already know rather than miss an opportunity to learn something new.
@Tree Merc Haha, thanks man! I do primarily contract climb, if you're not too far away we could probably set something up if it would be of interest to you.
I like how you moved your climbing line out of the way after you realized it was on the same side as the rigging. Be sure to always have that climbing line away from your rigging.
@@zaccheus yes sir just try to have your rope on the other side even if it takes up more time, and remember as climbers there are not any do overs once we make a mistake it’s done.
I'll second that. I've found even giving yourself some vertical space between the tie in point and the rigging point helps keep things apart. I'll try putting them on opposite sides next time.
New climber here, love your videos! I really learn a lot watching you! Do you have any tips on cutting good notches while in the tree? I really struggle with that.
It something that takes everyone some practice to get good at. Getting yourself in the right position where you can have both hands free will always help. I also like to make the horizontal cut first and without hesitation go right into my angled cut. That typically helps me get the two to meet where i want them. Not always, but most of the time.
Thanks! I'd definitely say there were a bunch of things that we could have done better knowing what I know now. So if you in the industry, don't let your education stop here 😅
It's a hard bullet to bite, but it's so handy when you need it. If you're gonna do much with it, I recommend a drill too. The Marita was around $600 with extra batteries and all, but it's so much faster and a relief to the guy who is cranking.
I want to be an arborist but i already have a landscape and lawncare business. Not sure i can find the time to train under one. What advice can you give me?
Well. I avoided training under one. I'm essentially 100% self taught. It can be done, but in doing so, you will expose yourself to far greater risk than if you learn from someone who can answer the questions you don't yet know to ask. Something that might help is winning some tree jobs and finding an experienced contract climber in your area to do the climbing while you and your help do the clean up. That will put you in a good position to observe, ask questions, and such. Let them know your experience level ahead of time. Some guys don't want to work with low experience ground workers.
When you negative block it's much better to have as little distance between your block and the load you are catching, all that excess rope will really add a lot more shock load since it free falls before you catch it. That shock load could mean the difference in a lower point or rope failure or not clearing the object you are trying to avoid so it's good practice to snug things up. It may seem like you are "letting it run" by adding some slack but trust me a good ground guy can get material down without shock loading.
I guess I don't know exactly which part you are referencing. I think we only negative rigged two chunks of wood and I don't believe we left any slack in anything. I'm happy to agree that leaving slack in a negative rig is a poor choice, where I would disagree with you is that the amount of rope above the block has no effect on how far the piece free falls. What matters more is how close the block is to the cut. I did have it a little low on both of those rigs 😬
@@troyerthedestroyer Oh, you're referencing the big swing? I understand what you're saying about the liner footage of rope between the block and the piece. If there is 10 ft between the block and the load, the load will hang 10 ft lower which will decrease its ability to clear obstacles below. In this case, I knew we had plenty of vertical space to work with. As far as loading the rope goes, a long radius swing that keeps the rope tight will induce less force on the rope than a scenario where the rope is slacked and then loaded like in typical negative spar rigging. Obviously groundman skill has a lot to do with how the rope is loaded, but I have to work with what I have, not what I wish I had down there on the ropes.
Tie too the top , and it won’t flip , but a hitch in the top , then put a few more hitches down towards the middle … it’s okay to use 3-4 hitches when rigging this big Haven’t used a GRCS but I have used a skidsteer to pretension large wood
As I recall, it's a pelican 1650 case. I don't use it anymore. The whole bit was right are 100lb and just a pain to move around. I've seen some guys putting it all together in some milwaukee pack out boxes. That seems to work nicely
Longer than I care to admit. I had 4 guys on it for 4 days. The biggest challenge was getting it all through the garage. It's why we won the job though, everyone else wanted to remove the crimson maple in the front yard to set a crane up out there.
You're welcome! It's called a GRCS or Good Rigging Control Device. It's available from many places, this one is my favorite: www.gameoftrees.com/product/grcs-best-rigging-device-for-tree-workers/
do you find your mechanical devices jamb up with sawdust? I find by the end of the day I cant move the hitch on my lanyard, and my main climbing hitch is nearing the same, looking to go with a zigzag and chicane, or ZZ with a ropewrench and reon rounds tether also, what spurs do you run? I screwed up my steel buckingham pole spikes and im looking at tree spikes now (east coast, live/white oak, hickory, pine, everything you can name)
I've never had trouble with sawdust in a mechanical device. I used to climb drt on a ZZ a lot and loved it. Super smooth device. All devices hate pine pitch though 🤷♂️
I just climb on a set of steel Buckingham tree climbers. I have opsal pads on them which make a world of difference. But I just got the spike cheap used somewhere.
@@zaccheus I will be ordering a set from wesspur as they are cheap and I need them sooner than arbsession can get them, one thing I hate about wesspur, you get a "buckingham tree gaff" could be 3 1/2" or 2 3/4", no telling what you get, ill live tho, either way is better than nothing
lopsided snap cut might make sense for the big stuff in this situation. You could back bar in an inch or two below your main kerf and let the rigging snap the fibers I saw you did that eventually, sort of - except with the saw above the main kerf, which makes the rigging rougher since the piece has to jump the bump a swanson or snipe cut on the big pieces might be wise. Another great video, thank you!
Do you ever measure your base cuts just for grins? Good rigging guy..nicely done...SUBSCRIBED... My crew and I took out a 74" red oak yesterday. What coms system do you use?
I do occasionally. I measured this one after I out the camera away and it was 50" at the widest, but that was partially because of the root flare. 74" is wild. I feel like I could justify an MS881 with that 😂 we just use good old Sena 10s. Not perfect but they work almost everyday 😁
Look's like your really digging that akimbo. I'm digging the Zillon. Trying to get acquainted with the rope runner pro. Only climbed on it a couple times but I think it's brewing up a real storm within. It's got the gears cranking to say the least. Daniel had me concerned for you on a couple of those chunks. Looked to me like they were coming back to home base. Cut that shit BIG, just dont shock load any of it. Nice work though, mission accomplished hoss👍💪😁😎
Yeah, Daniel was part time help last summer. He only came back this day because we were down a man. He was a little rust. It was his first time using the GRCS too.
Yeah, I forgot about that little detail. I salute Daniel as well then. Can't say that I have a bunch of hours operating a GRCS myself. Much less being fast with the forward, reverse and throttle of that fancy drill you use on that bad boy. I think i'd be sweating it some.😁💪😎
I’m thinking of getting an akimbo I have a unicender not really a fan of it. How do u like the akimbo I see that’s all u use and how’s it for spar work ?
It's nice, I really like it a lot. It definitely behaves differently in different conditions and does not like pine pitch (but what device does). I think it's compactness, adjustability and midline attachability make it a great device despite its few drawbacks. See if you can find someone around you that will let you try theirs before buying. I know our local arborist shop will let folks try stuff before buying it.
I haven't been on a zig zag in a long time but I recall that the last time I used mine, a 11.5mm worked well. Best thing is start on the smaller side of the spectrum and then getting a bigger rope as the device wears. Typically, you should replace a climbing rope every year anyway.
Honest question. You've already messed up the grass, why rig so much out when you could easily drop the pieces? Also, why are you rigging off of the same spot you're tied into?
Appreciate the question! On the half that leaned toward the house I rigged the wood because it leaned toward the house. On the side away from the house, I certainly could have plopped off those first two pieces. I just wasn't confident in how they would land and I didn't want something landing at a funny angle and shooting off toward the shed or fence. And for the second question, it was the only thing left up there. I separated the rigging point and tie in point with some vertical space on the spar in an effort to keep them apart.
Your doing great! However like some others have said that big wood needs to either have a hold back to kill the swing, or and also have the rope runner person lower the friggin thing and get it under you immediately! After 40 years of doing this work I would be not happy with someone swinging that wood at me all day.
I've tried to sell logs around here a couple of time. About all I can do is get someone to pick them up for free. Nobody like urban logs because they're often full of trim scars and various steel bits. This log had to leave through the garage so I had to go out in pieces. The math suggested it weigh somewhere around 7,000lb.
I've never had a 462 in my hands, but the numbers would suggest that the 500i is better. I will say I was disappointed to find out that the new MS400 is not fuel injected like the 500i.
If you cut those bigger pieces at more of a angle in the direction you want them to go it's easier on you. Less of a chance for the piece to come back at you and gravity helps remove the piece.. hope that makes sense
None of the dealers around you have one? My local dealer said they had 25 of them in the back waiting to be sold. Maybe they would ship you one . The dealer is called Akron Tractor here in Akron Ohio.
@@zaccheus Yeah they are nice I like the 3 point dogs just make sure you put a chain catcher on the bottom I did not and I broke the dogs I think it keeps it more stable the chain catcher
The big fatty log? Nah I didn't film it. We just sliced it up into pieces and carried it out with the tractor. Mathematically, that log weighed around 7k pounds.
I've been doing some light bucket truck work lately. But I'm do alot of big stump cutting jobs for an excavation company when they can't dig the stumps. I cut as they push the tree. We've done many 50" oaks with hard backlean. Sketchy business.
Travor is a cool dude. The difference between crane and GRCS work is that with a crane, you move the point the cable hangs from around to get a perfect balance on the limb. With the GRCS, you're stuck with whatever the tree gives you. That being said, if the tree gives me a really good spot, I'll be sure the give a shelf cut a try!
If you're referring to saw chain, I prefer the chain to be on the looser side. I think I did notice that the 500i sounded a little too tight at one point. That could partially be because these new saw don't oil as much as the old ones. 🤷♂️
Haha, oh yes, there would be no more fingers to put back on after something like that. I try to keep my fingers out of actively closing gaps for the most part.
Whoaaa, that's a big tree. I gather yard damage was not of concern 😅 If those were pin oak (one if the heavier oaks in my area) they'd weigh in at nearly a thousand pounds a piece. Surely that shook things a bit.
Lol, no kidding. I do have a problem with under reacting to things. Thankfully, I've improved a lot of my skills and practices since I made this video.
I can't help but cringe when I see groundies standing under a block that would mash them flat as a flounder or a piece swinging that could end your career. Stay safe buddy.
My enforcement of grounds person safety regulations was definitely lacking back when I made this. We did a lot of things that I now regret having learned what I have since then.
If I may.... 1) Stop creating bad habits... Aka 1 hand a saw when you don't need to. 2) throw a rigging ring and a secondary rigging line to use as a tag line. Swinging big wood that much for that long in the air is completely unprofessional and dangerous
Comments are always welcome. 1). It's sometimes hard to determine what maneuvers and risks are necessary from a helmet cam video. 2). If you can identify a specific component of swinging wood that makes it inherently dangerous, I'd be interested in your thoughts. Nobody has done so for me yet.
@@zaccheus it's not to down you at all but help educat. I could tell just from ur view there be alot of swing. Take a single #2 rigging ring and set it to the lead your working below your cut point like negative rigging. Then add a second line. This cause the pieces to have a line for let down and a line for direction. I will try to get an example when I can. I saw your reply while I was out and about... Until then. Keep up the learning... Don't be afraid to be low man on totem pole to grow. Keep up the work!.
@@zaccheus because 1 your not in control. You should be in control of every piece. Say if you have a 300 pound log swinging and you rope crosses a "not so cleaner cut" and then your rope breaks and you have a piece flying off.. in complete honesty if your sitting here asking why having a heavy log swinging is a bad... You probably shouldn't be doing this type of work. Literally is so dangours for multiple reasons.. if you of the guys on my crew had shit swinging like that I'd fire them in a heart beat. NOT SAFE.
I have to politely disagree with your thinking here. I don't think in any scenario will a rough cut cause a properly sized rigging rope to break with a 300lb load on it. If you know of any examples of this happening, I would appreciate an opportunity to see them. I asked the question in simple terms out of an effort to understand your reasoning. I understand that there are risks associated with swinging wood, however in this scenario, my personal belief was that the risks did not outweigh the benefits. Obviously, that is not always the case.
Hey man thanks for all your awesome footage. One thing that helps with a brake cut, if you cut underneath your main cut instead of on top it breaks way nicer. Something an old boy taught me I thought I'd pass it along. Be safe out there!
Thanks Melvin!
And no risk of saw being taken down with the log(and you if your saw lanyard isn't break away).
@@ZXXpilot definitely made that mistake before 😅
I do the same. My bottom cut is made in the direction I want the piece to go. Significantly easier to break off!
I love all ur video's brother stay safe and blessed
Watching those big chunks come swinging back at you makes me think they need to let it run a little, at least to a safer place for the climber. Nicely documented.
Aye that would be nice. Unfortunately with the way the grcs works, you can't use the winch and then let rope through really fast. I'd rather have the winch function than the ability to let things run in those scenarios.
Hey you can always throw a tag line on some of those pieces that we're taking the big swings just throw a wrap around the stem above your lanyard then just pop it off quick once it settled on rigging spar. I work with alot of different ground guys an there not all great at rope work. If you have confidence in ground guys it probably not necessary cause they can just let it down some so it won't swing back at u but if your ever worried about it come back at u it a effective quick technique
Fair thought. I avoid using lines controlled by groundies and I should probably use them more often. Using a tag line that I control might be a happy medium for some stuff
I love the way you take the time to explain things. It would be nice if you could slow down a little and show how you tie your rope around a limb that has to be lowered. Also show a little more of the ground guy working at the base of the tree and exactly what he is doing.
Alright, thanks for the feedback!
Run lots of these at a slower playback speed if it tying knots I need to learn. Volume down, speed to 25%, watch his hands
Nice job boys
Nice work... that's some biggggg wood... That 500i that's the lightest big saw you have for climbing..I have the 32 inch bar on mine.. don't think I want to climb with it... Great work ..
The 500i is the berries. I keep a 25" on it most of the time but have a 36" with a skip tooth chain for when I need something bigger. I don't blame you for not want to climb with a 32" bar 😬
Nice job man. That's some pretty big wood.
Thanks!
I like the videos. I appreciate them and thank you for taking the time to make them I have learned so much from your channel. But is there a video that actually shows how to rig full chunk logs to the ground and how to tie the knots. Thanks again
@michaels8881 I have a video on some negative rigging of logs. Is that what you're looking for?
Great work man very safe and efficent i learn alot from your videos and you are a young boss and bussiness man just like me
Hey, I'm glad to hear that! I love hearing about other young leaders and businessmen!
Rigging those bigger pieces that you're using the peel cut will slide right off using and angled salami cut. Just get a micro wedge on a retractable Keychain for the backside of the cut. I clip mine right onto my harness suspenders.
I've definitely figure that out since I did this job a year or two ago. It's was easier especially with a little pretension.
@Zaccheus my bad I didn't realize the post date.
@Tree Merc All good, there are a lot of old videos on here that I do lots of wrong stuff in. I learn so much from people in the comments and I'd always rather hearing something I already know rather than miss an opportunity to learn something new.
@@zaccheus that's an amazing attitude. I wish I had a young climber like you working for me!!
@Tree Merc Haha, thanks man! I do primarily contract climb, if you're not too far away we could probably set something up if it would be of interest to you.
I like how you moved your climbing line out of the way after you realized it was on the same side as the rigging. Be sure to always have that climbing line away from your rigging.
Yeah it can get tricky when your tie in and rigging point have to be on the same spar. Just one of the many things you gotta keep an eye on 😅
@@zaccheus yes sir just try to have your rope on the other side even if it takes up more time, and remember as climbers there are not any do overs once we make a mistake it’s done.
I'll second that. I've found even giving yourself some vertical space between the tie in point and the rigging point helps keep things apart. I'll try putting them on opposite sides next time.
Come on with some new videos brother. You still cutting?
Nice job!
Thanks!
New climber here, love your videos! I really learn a lot watching you! Do you have any tips on cutting good notches while in the tree? I really struggle with that.
It something that takes everyone some practice to get good at. Getting yourself in the right position where you can have both hands free will always help. I also like to make the horizontal cut first and without hesitation go right into my angled cut. That typically helps me get the two to meet where i want them. Not always, but most of the time.
Very inspiring to watch
Thanks! I'd definitely say there were a bunch of things that we could have done better knowing what I know now. So if you in the industry, don't let your education stop here 😅
Very well excecuted good job fellas great teamwork got it down safely on to the next 1 good show gentlemen carry on 👍🤙
Thanks!
Thats a big ass oak nice work man ✌
Thanks! It's definitely not what we do often.
@@zaccheus scared mouth dont get fed bro 💪
Those look like reg coats notches. Nice and deep
😅 thanks, I assume Reg does it for the same reason I do. I'm just trying to get the center of gravity over the notch.
Gotta feel good getting that one on the ground. Just imagine if you didn't have the loader it'd be hard to find groundsman that's for sure lol
Lol for sure! If I didn't have that little tractor, I would have certainly declined this tree.
Also buddy a pocket wedge would come in handy on them big pieces
Yeah, I know. I have one, I just broke the retractable keychain holder that I kept it on.
@@zaccheus lol
Good job bro
Thanks!
I’m wanting a grcs and you made me want one more lol
It's a hard bullet to bite, but it's so handy when you need it. If you're gonna do much with it, I recommend a drill too. The Marita was around $600 with extra batteries and all, but it's so much faster and a relief to the guy who is cranking.
Very nice job
Thanks!
I want to be an arborist but i already have a landscape and lawncare business. Not sure i can find the time to train under one. What advice can you give me?
Well. I avoided training under one. I'm essentially 100% self taught. It can be done, but in doing so, you will expose yourself to far greater risk than if you learn from someone who can answer the questions you don't yet know to ask. Something that might help is winning some tree jobs and finding an experienced contract climber in your area to do the climbing while you and your help do the clean up. That will put you in a good position to observe, ask questions, and such. Let them know your experience level ahead of time. Some guys don't want to work with low experience ground workers.
Nice. Goin up on the drum, i get thanx no n then after a rig. Dont like it tho hahaa i know cheers. Good job
Hey man I am super interested on the machine. Is it a kubota? If so what size also what attachment???
Yeah, it's a kubota BX 2680 with a branch manager grapple
@@zaccheus awesome man thanks for the reply! Love your content I watch your videos daily and have grown a ton💪🏽 keep on
Отличное применение лебёдки и аккумуляторного инструмента, 💪
Thank you! It really helps to use them!
When you negative block it's much better to have as little distance between your block and the load you are catching, all that excess rope will really add a lot more shock load since it free falls before you catch it. That shock load could mean the difference in a lower point or rope failure or not clearing the object you are trying to avoid so it's good practice to snug things up. It may seem like you are "letting it run" by adding some slack but trust me a good ground guy can get material down without shock loading.
I guess I don't know exactly which part you are referencing. I think we only negative rigged two chunks of wood and I don't believe we left any slack in anything. I'm happy to agree that leaving slack in a negative rig is a poor choice, where I would disagree with you is that the amount of rope above the block has no effect on how far the piece free falls. What matters more is how close the block is to the cut. I did have it a little low on both of those rigs 😬
@@zaccheus Talking about the last top
@@troyerthedestroyer Oh, you're referencing the big swing? I understand what you're saying about the liner footage of rope between the block and the piece. If there is 10 ft between the block and the load, the load will hang 10 ft lower which will decrease its ability to clear obstacles below. In this case, I knew we had plenty of vertical space to work with. As far as loading the rope goes, a long radius swing that keeps the rope tight will induce less force on the rope than a scenario where the rope is slacked and then loaded like in typical negative spar rigging. Obviously groundman skill has a lot to do with how the rope is loaded, but I have to work with what I have, not what I wish I had down there on the ropes.
Tie too the top , and it won’t flip , but a hitch in the top , then put a few more hitches down towards the middle … it’s okay to use 3-4 hitches when rigging this big
Haven’t used a GRCS but I have used a skidsteer to pretension large wood
Where did you get that box for your Grcs?
As I recall, it's a pelican 1650 case. I don't use it anymore. The whole bit was right are 100lb and just a pain to move around. I've seen some guys putting it all together in some milwaukee pack out boxes. That seems to work nicely
Good job. How many days did that job take you boys?
Longer than I care to admit. I had 4 guys on it for 4 days. The biggest challenge was getting it all through the garage. It's why we won the job though, everyone else wanted to remove the crimson maple in the front yard to set a crane up out there.
Good job boys!!
I'm a new climber. Would a tagline have helped with the big swing pieces? You guys handled it well though. Stay safe out there
Спасибо за видео. Как называется лебедка которую вы использовали? Если не трудно, оставьтессылку на это снаряжение. Спасибо.
You're welcome! It's called a GRCS or Good Rigging Control Device. It's available from many places, this one is my favorite: www.gameoftrees.com/product/grcs-best-rigging-device-for-tree-workers/
do you find your mechanical devices jamb up with sawdust? I find by the end of the day I cant move the hitch on my lanyard, and my main climbing hitch is nearing the same, looking to go with a zigzag and chicane, or ZZ with a ropewrench and reon rounds tether
also, what spurs do you run? I screwed up my steel buckingham pole spikes and im looking at tree spikes now (east coast, live/white oak, hickory, pine, everything you can name)
I've never had trouble with sawdust in a mechanical device. I used to climb drt on a ZZ a lot and loved it. Super smooth device. All devices hate pine pitch though 🤷♂️
I just climb on a set of steel Buckingham tree climbers. I have opsal pads on them which make a world of difference. But I just got the spike cheap used somewhere.
@@zaccheus I will be ordering a set from wesspur as they are cheap and I need them sooner than arbsession can get them, one thing I hate about wesspur, you get a "buckingham tree gaff" could be 3 1/2" or 2 3/4", no telling what you get, ill live tho, either way is better than nothing
Mate!!!!😲😲😲let's Go 😆.💪 Nice.😆
Thank you Leonard, it's great to know I can always count on you to appreciate!
@@zaccheus you the man.👍 😆.💪 Cheers.👍 mate
Hey, what rigging line is that?
I believe it was just 5/8 stable braid
lopsided snap cut might make sense for the big stuff in this situation. You could back bar in an inch or two below your main kerf and let the rigging snap the fibers
I saw you did that eventually, sort of - except with the saw above the main kerf, which makes the rigging rougher since the piece has to jump the bump
a swanson or snipe cut on the big pieces might be wise.
Another great video, thank you!
Thank you for your thoughts and tips!
Do you ever measure your base cuts just for grins? Good rigging guy..nicely done...SUBSCRIBED... My crew and I took out a 74" red oak yesterday. What coms system do you use?
I do occasionally. I measured this one after I out the camera away and it was 50" at the widest, but that was partially because of the root flare. 74" is wild. I feel like I could justify an MS881 with that 😂 we just use good old Sena 10s. Not perfect but they work almost everyday 😁
Look's like your really digging that akimbo. I'm digging the Zillon. Trying to get acquainted with the rope runner pro. Only climbed on it a couple times but I think it's brewing up a real storm within. It's got the gears cranking to say the least. Daniel had me concerned for you on a couple of those chunks. Looked to me like they were coming back to home base. Cut that shit BIG, just dont shock load any of it. Nice work though, mission accomplished hoss👍💪😁😎
Yeah, Daniel was part time help last summer. He only came back this day because we were down a man. He was a little rust. It was his first time using the GRCS too.
Yeah, I forgot about that little detail. I salute Daniel as well then. Can't say that I have a bunch of hours operating a GRCS myself. Much less being fast with the forward, reverse and throttle of that fancy drill you use on that bad boy. I think i'd be sweating it some.😁💪😎
I’m thinking of getting an akimbo I have a unicender not really a fan of it. How do u like the akimbo I see that’s all u use and how’s it for spar work ?
It's nice, I really like it a lot. It definitely behaves differently in different conditions and does not like pine pitch (but what device does). I think it's compactness, adjustability and midline attachability make it a great device despite its few drawbacks. See if you can find someone around you that will let you try theirs before buying. I know our local arborist shop will let folks try stuff before buying it.
very interesting. Dangerous job.
how much does somn like that cost?
A lot of factors go into how much a tree costs to remove. Some of them are how big the tree is. How accessible the tree is and how risky the tree is.
What kind of climbing line are you using
KMIII Max it's not approved for the Akimbo, but it works nicely for my 155lbs
@@zaccheus What size is it good for the zigzag
I haven't been on a zig zag in a long time but I recall that the last time I used mine, a 11.5mm worked well. Best thing is start on the smaller side of the spectrum and then getting a bigger rope as the device wears. Typically, you should replace a climbing rope every year anyway.
Honest question. You've already messed up the grass, why rig so much out when you could easily drop the pieces? Also, why are you rigging off of the same spot you're tied into?
Appreciate the question! On the half that leaned toward the house I rigged the wood because it leaned toward the house. On the side away from the house, I certainly could have plopped off those first two pieces. I just wasn't confident in how they would land and I didn't want something landing at a funny angle and shooting off toward the shed or fence.
And for the second question, it was the only thing left up there. I separated the rigging point and tie in point with some vertical space on the spar in an effort to keep them apart.
Hey man when u gunna put out some more videos. Your videos are my favorite next to hunicke
Hay Marshall, I'm so sorry there has been a quiet spell. I'm working on an edited now
Still waiting on some new stuff man! You been busy?
Yeah, man, I'm so sorry I haven't gotten something out recently. I've got two videos filmed that are just waiting on the editing.
Your doing great! However like some others have said that big wood needs to either have a hold back to kill the swing, or and also have the rope runner person lower the friggin thing and get it under you immediately! After 40 years of doing this work I would be not happy with someone swinging that wood at me all day.
Aye, nobody has yet to be able to offer me a valid reason for reducing the wood swing. Do you have one?
Out here in the Northwest we mostly just have conifers, that big old Pinoak would’ve been snagged up by somebody with a portable sawmill out here!
I've tried to sell logs around here a couple of time. About all I can do is get someone to pick them up for free. Nobody like urban logs because they're often full of trim scars and various steel bits. This log had to leave through the garage so I had to go out in pieces. The math suggested it weigh somewhere around 7,000lb.
Same here in virginia. Nobody hardly even wants pin oak for firewood.
Second that. Tried to give a guy some for firewood once and he turned it down 🤷♂️
Some people say they like the 462 better than the 500i. do you have an opinion on that debate?
I've never had a 462 in my hands, but the numbers would suggest that the 500i is better. I will say I was disappointed to find out that the new MS400 is not fuel injected like the 500i.
If you cut those bigger pieces at more of a angle in the direction you want them to go it's easier on you.
Less of a chance for the piece to come back at you and gravity helps remove the piece.. hope that makes sense
You mean like a salami cut? I have dine that for free falling pieces, but never thought to use it in a rigging scenario. Thanks for your thoughts!
Where's the new videos man! You must be working hard saving money up for the winter. I know things around here slow down a lot then.
I'm honestly jealous of your 500i. I've been looking for one for months and months. I think it maybe even a year and nothing
None of the dealers around you have one? My local dealer said they had 25 of them in the back waiting to be sold. Maybe they would ship you one . The dealer is called Akron Tractor here in Akron Ohio.
Stihl sucks they don't allow that. Really sucks. Anyway another great video man. Stay safe brother
Great job buddy did you put the bark Box on your 500 yet
😆 I bought one, but haven't installed it yet. I did get my 3 point WCS dogs on there though. They're a real nice improvement 👌
@@zaccheus Yeah they are nice I like the 3 point dogs just make sure you put a chain catcher on the bottom I did not and I broke the dogs I think it keeps it more stable the chain catcher
Hey thanks for that comment, I'll have to get one on there. I think I have one laying around somewhere 😬
With those short pieces and the rigging above it try the salami cut so it slipshod and you don’t have to man handle it
That's an excellent thought. I've never combined salami cuts with rigging scenarios. Might give it a shot next time.
Got a whole other vid cleaning all that up. Id watch that.
The big fatty log? Nah I didn't film it. We just sliced it up into pieces and carried it out with the tractor. Mathematically, that log weighed around 7k pounds.
Come on with some new videos brother. You still cutting?
Oh yes, still cutting. I'm halfway through editing the next one, it's just hard to find the time to make it all happen.
I've been doing some light bucket truck work lately. But I'm do alot of big stump cutting jobs for an excavation company when they can't dig the stumps. I cut as they push the tree. We've done many 50" oaks with hard backlean. Sketchy business.
Subscribe today! Be safe with rigging those big wood , what state are you from?
Hey thanks for subscribing! We operate in northeast Ohio.
I have never used a grsc, but if I did I would try the shelf cut. Check out Travor Ahern's channel, he does this cut a lot.
Travor is a cool dude. The difference between crane and GRCS work is that with a crane, you move the point the cable hangs from around to get a perfect balance on the limb. With the GRCS, you're stuck with whatever the tree gives you. That being said, if the tree gives me a really good spot, I'll be sure the give a shelf cut a try!
@@zaccheus Oh right, I didn't consider this. Thank you for the answer!
No problem man, you would have figured it out right away if you were trying it
U like them chains tight?
If you're referring to saw chain, I prefer the chain to be on the looser side. I think I did notice that the 500i sounded a little too tight at one point. That could partially be because these new saw don't oil as much as the old ones. 🤷♂️
22:17 you stick your fingers into that notch, I cringed. I know, it wasn't going anywhere, but still, that would have been a hell of a pinch.
Haha, oh yes, there would be no more fingers to put back on after something like that. I try to keep my fingers out of actively closing gaps for the most part.
Please where 🧤.
Lol, I do in the cold months
I dropped some bombs the other day they were 30 inch x 5ft oak 7ft wide at the stump
Whoaaa, that's a big tree. I gather yard damage was not of concern 😅
If those were pin oak (one if the heavier oaks in my area) they'd weigh in at nearly a thousand pounds a piece. Surely that shook things a bit.
Unethical to leave that canyon? Why would that not be in your bid?
It was. I went and got a yard of topsoil and we made sure everything was nice and smooth before we left.
18:41 new underwear needed but acted like it was a no biggy.
Lol, no kidding. I do have a problem with under reacting to things. Thankfully, I've improved a lot of my skills and practices since I made this video.
I can't help but cringe when I see groundies standing under a block that would mash them flat as a flounder or a piece swinging that could end your career. Stay safe buddy.
My enforcement of grounds person safety regulations was definitely lacking back when I made this. We did a lot of things that I now regret having learned what I have since then.
@@zaccheus It's all good as long as nobody gets hurt and we learn as you obviously have. Be blessed and safe.
If I may.... 1) Stop creating bad habits... Aka 1 hand a saw when you don't need to. 2) throw a rigging ring and a secondary rigging line to use as a tag line. Swinging big wood that much for that long in the air is completely unprofessional and dangerous
Comments are always welcome.
1). It's sometimes hard to determine what maneuvers and risks are necessary from a helmet cam video.
2). If you can identify a specific component of swinging wood that makes it inherently dangerous, I'd be interested in your thoughts. Nobody has done so for me yet.
@@zaccheus it's not to down you at all but help educat. I could tell just from ur view there be alot of swing. Take a single #2 rigging ring and set it to the lead your working below your cut point like negative rigging. Then add a second line. This cause the pieces to have a line for let down and a line for direction. I will try to get an example when I can. I saw your reply while I was out and about... Until then. Keep up the learning... Don't be afraid to be low man on totem pole to grow. Keep up the work!.
I gotcha, but why is swinging wood in this scenario dangerous?
@@zaccheus because 1 your not in control. You should be in control of every piece. Say if you have a 300 pound log swinging and you rope crosses a "not so cleaner cut" and then your rope breaks and you have a piece flying off.. in complete honesty if your sitting here asking why having a heavy log swinging is a bad... You probably shouldn't be doing this type of work. Literally is so dangours for multiple reasons.. if you of the guys on my crew had shit swinging like that I'd fire them in a heart beat. NOT SAFE.
I have to politely disagree with your thinking here. I don't think in any scenario will a rough cut cause a properly sized rigging rope to break with a 300lb load on it. If you know of any examples of this happening, I would appreciate an opportunity to see them. I asked the question in simple terms out of an effort to understand your reasoning. I understand that there are risks associated with swinging wood, however in this scenario, my personal belief was that the risks did not outweigh the benefits. Obviously, that is not always the case.