So I no longer need a GoPro mount myself, since I'm now using a naked GoPro with a servo for camera tilting, controlled by a headtracker. Yes, it's complicated😅: th-cam.com/video/6kOobxEzTyk/w-d-xo.html
Hi, nice video! A little tip: if you need a "help"-line, just draw it, mark it and press "x". The line will be dotted and Fusion won´t take care of it, but you can use it for dimensioning. Best regards Werner
I'm learning so much from comments on my own tutorial videos 😅 - in one of my earlier videos someone was telling me how to add and remove things from the main toolbar and now you've come up with this handy gem, thank you so much.
Really great quality videos man!!! Keep them coming! I've just got done stiffening up/printing a naked GP mount because it was shaking around way to much. I use TinkerCAD but you make Fusion look easy!
Cheers bro, glad you like'em! I hear good things about TinkerCAD, I should probably give it a go at some point. I use Fusion because I've had a little experience using Autodesk's other bits of software and so I guess I'm kinda' used to the feel. And man, I wish I made Fusion look easier, I've seen some guys on TH-cam designing like entire car engines using it, blows my mind
Sorry for the late reply, it's a Telesin ND filter mount. When you buy the kit you clip that part on first which has magnets around the edges, and each filter magnetically clips into place. Good for getting motion blur into the video by reducing the shutter speed. Downside is that a hard crash and the ND filter will fly off. Already lost 2 that way, haha. Still got the 32 and 16 though, arguably the most used ones, hehe.
Great tutorial, thank you for sharing. One thing I don't understand is why you did not center the three slots on the base, like this the GoPro won't sit centered on the quad.
Hey, yes, you're correct - the reason I did this is because the actual camera part of the GoPro is also offset to one side, so by designing it this way I bring the actual camera closer to the quad's centre. Sure, also messes with the left/right balance, unless you fly without a battery and use that iFlight balance to 5v USB-C connector, in which case the balance is improved. And sorry for the late reply, I've been stupid busy with my day job the past few months!
How about find the top plate on your drone on a maybe cnc form so you can import it on fusion and design it there ? Am new to 3d design with fusion and am trying to learn the easiest way to do thing, plus with no errors so i dont have to print same thing 3-4 times and fixing it. Thanks in advance
If you can find the original parts then that would work perfectly, but you also have to consider where the design came from - if it's provided by the original designer/manufacturer, then perfect, but if it's also by a hobbyist like us then you end up trusting their ability to measure with accurate callipers and make some safe assumptions about manufacturing tolerances too. In the end, I like doing it myself because then I have someone to blame for getting it wrong
do you have any experience printing this kind of mount with PLA? i always print using TPU but you know.. it makes tiny wobble.. i wonder if PLA will work better..
I think it would be fine, but PLA is much more brittle, so any hard impacts - direct or indirect - will probably break the mount. When I first started printing TPU, I found that my parts were too flexible, even at 100% infill (or 10+ perimeters), but I increased my extrusion multiplier by .1 to overextrud the TPU which made my TPU prints much stiffer. You'll have to experiment here depending on your printer, but I find this is the best way to increase rigidity without modifying the part design. Sorry for the late reply, day job has been killing me the past few months.
I've tried to recreate this mount following this video and I can't get it to work. Something important must have been edited out somewhere around the trimming of the circles.
Sorry for the late reply - whereabouts in the video are you getting stuck? To my knowledge I've edited this start to finish okay, but sometimes in some design situations Fusion 360 can be a bit finnicky, maybe you're experiencing something like that? It's like not being able to make a 5mm chamfer that should be possible but a 4.9998mm chamfer works, or in a sketch if you click and think a line got snapped-to, but actually it snapped to a grid point and the line never intersected the target shape, which would leave a hole and make trimming behave weird unless you really zoom in. Stuff like that.
![[안방1열 직캠4K] 베이비몬스터 치키타 'DRIP' (BABYMONSTER CHIQUITA FanCam) @SBS Inkigayo 241110](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tnlxo79cAqY/mqdefault.jpg)
So I no longer need a GoPro mount myself, since I'm now using a naked GoPro with a servo for camera tilting, controlled by a headtracker. Yes, it's complicated😅:
th-cam.com/video/6kOobxEzTyk/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much. I’ve been using tinkercad as I was too scared to move to fusion 360 but your videos show me home much more powerful it is.
Nice tutorial. I'm working to learn Fusion360, and I made exactly this part in FreeCAD, so it's a great comparison.
Really good video
Thanks man
My pleasure, glad I can help!
@@STRIKINGFPV can you make a video on how to make a fpv antenna mount
Informative, engaging, and clear, great teaching skills
Glad you think so, and happy that I can give back to the community
Hi, nice video! A little tip: if you need a "help"-line, just draw it, mark it and press "x". The line will be dotted and Fusion won´t take care of it, but you can use it for dimensioning. Best regards Werner
I'm learning so much from comments on my own tutorial videos 😅 - in one of my earlier videos someone was telling me how to add and remove things from the main toolbar and now you've come up with this handy gem, thank you so much.
Great video next one make how you model up the all body drone
I've actually done some drone frame designs before, but not yet built from scratch yet. It's definitely on my list of potential videos
Good stuff mate.
Much appreciated!
Really great quality videos man!!! Keep them coming! I've just got done stiffening up/printing a naked GP mount because it was shaking around way to much. I use TinkerCAD but you make Fusion look easy!
Cheers bro, glad you like'em! I hear good things about TinkerCAD, I should probably give it a go at some point. I use Fusion because I've had a little experience using Autodesk's other bits of software and so I guess I'm kinda' used to the feel.
And man, I wish I made Fusion look easier, I've seen some guys on TH-cam designing like entire car engines using it, blows my mind
Great video, thanks 💪🏼
My pleasure!
Nice video..
What is it on your lens? Lens protector? ND filter holder?
Sorry for the late reply, it's a Telesin ND filter mount. When you buy the kit you clip that part on first which has magnets around the edges, and each filter magnetically clips into place. Good for getting motion blur into the video by reducing the shutter speed. Downside is that a hard crash and the ND filter will fly off. Already lost 2 that way, haha. Still got the 32 and 16 though, arguably the most used ones, hehe.
Great tutorial, thank you for sharing. One thing I don't understand is why you did not center the three slots on the base, like this the GoPro won't sit centered on the quad.
Hey, yes, you're correct - the reason I did this is because the actual camera part of the GoPro is also offset to one side, so by designing it this way I bring the actual camera closer to the quad's centre. Sure, also messes with the left/right balance, unless you fly without a battery and use that iFlight balance to 5v USB-C connector, in which case the balance is improved.
And sorry for the late reply, I've been stupid busy with my day job the past few months!
@@STRIKINGFPV Apreciate you taking the time to respond. Thank you!
My pleasure - only sad I didn't respond sooner, been so swamped and stressed with work that I neglected the channel for a long while already 😩
How about find the top plate on your drone on a maybe cnc form so you can import it on fusion and design it there ? Am new to 3d design with fusion and am trying to learn the easiest way to do thing, plus with no errors so i dont have to print same thing 3-4 times and fixing it. Thanks in advance
If you can find the original parts then that would work perfectly, but you also have to consider where the design came from - if it's provided by the original designer/manufacturer, then perfect, but if it's also by a hobbyist like us then you end up trusting their ability to measure with accurate callipers and make some safe assumptions about manufacturing tolerances too.
In the end, I like doing it myself because then I have someone to blame for getting it wrong
Thank you !
Welcome!
do you have any experience printing this kind of mount with PLA? i always print using TPU but you know.. it makes tiny wobble.. i wonder if PLA will work better..
I think it would be fine, but PLA is much more brittle, so any hard impacts - direct or indirect - will probably break the mount.
When I first started printing TPU, I found that my parts were too flexible, even at 100% infill (or 10+ perimeters), but I increased my extrusion multiplier by .1 to overextrud the TPU which made my TPU prints much stiffer. You'll have to experiment here depending on your printer, but I find this is the best way to increase rigidity without modifying the part design.
Sorry for the late reply, day job has been killing me the past few months.
I've tried to recreate this mount following this video and I can't get it to work. Something important must have been edited out somewhere around the trimming of the circles.
Sorry for the late reply - whereabouts in the video are you getting stuck? To my knowledge I've edited this start to finish okay, but sometimes in some design situations Fusion 360 can be a bit finnicky, maybe you're experiencing something like that? It's like not being able to make a 5mm chamfer that should be possible but a 4.9998mm chamfer works, or in a sketch if you click and think a line got snapped-to, but actually it snapped to a grid point and the line never intersected the target shape, which would leave a hole and make trimming behave weird unless you really zoom in. Stuff like that.