Really dislike the EGR. What a mess in this one. I had a late 90s that had EGR clogging and it would cause no start on heat soaked engine, like if you stopped the car in the drive thru to wait for them to finish. Stay warm my friend, it seems very cold and with the rain it will be colder in the next few days where you are.
Peter, that video was AWESOME!! I learned a lot!! Pull not believe how much $$$$ you will save this customer! Please let us know the final cost to complete this repair in another video!
This is why the EGR system needs to be kept clean (and the PVC valve needs to be changed once-in-a-while). Neglect that, and it will blow the head gasket, every time.
i just cleaned my egr cooler, egr valve, and manifold last week. wasnt fun but glad its done!!! I also installed an oil catch can on it. pretty simple installation and it should help to minimize the oil pooling in the intake manifold.
Yep... same thing but I did 1 additional step....I unplugged the EGR valve. The reason was because you don't know when your EGR system will plug and cause a misfire which will blow your head gasket. Too risky. My engine ended up lasting 350k miles. The other thing is.... don't shut your car off while the engine is running, this can cause gas/oil inside the throttle body and cause misfire the next start up
@@modified93tc how many miles ago did you unplug the egr valve? and no issues with that??? good intel on the car shut off! makes sense. thanks for reply
@@davek7640 about 100k miles ago no prob. With the design of these engines you're 1 misfire away from a blown head gasket and I didn't want to take that chance. It does set a check engine light tho
@@modified93tc mine is coding as Cyclinder 1 and I had spark plugs changed but still doing it.. guys are saying its transmission but code keeps coming back as C 1.. now I need to take it elsewhere as they want me to replace the whole trans.. but it could be fuel injectors or? Im at 170,000.. how can I help my car last longer.. I just paid it off.. ugh im trying to figure out whats really wrong.. some guy said 6 months ago after he replaced the fuel pump that head gasket could be blown or needs to be replaced soon.. so each mechanic is different
@modified93tc Don't listen to this guy, you can NOT close or unplug the egr system permanently on this car. The cooler decreases intake temps preventing knock. If you close the egr system you'll blow your head gasket sooner. Keep it clean and change oil regularly and your headgasket will be fine.
I own an 07 with barely 100 KMI. Thanks for making me aware of that issue. I don't loose oil between oil changes and it has given me reliable service on the original battery
@@thomaskutches2613 I am never cozy not seeing the engine coolant temp in any of my cars. is there a specific location where I can install a temp sensor on the 07 prius so I can install a temp gage?
Nice video. I think the oil pool in the throttle is the result of the hybrid operation and the PCV route design. You can clean the oil and/or add an OCC, but it will reappear shortly after. The blocked EGR circuit may cause rough engine running at idle/low-RPM. The real question is: What is the main culprit of the blown head-gasket?
People who drive this car in eco mode, hypermile it and never get the engine revving and hot will have this problem. Also changing oil on manufacturer recommendations will do this. My ct200h, same as this prius had 160km on it when I bought it, EGR was proper clean and almost no oil in intake. It's about how you drive this car. Drive it normally, change oil every 5-10km with premium oil, clean egr once in a while and they will last forever.
I have a 95 corolla 1.6 gli vehicle. It works properly in LPG. It stumbles slightly on gasoline. When I turn on the heater, the idle speed drops slightly. It works in the morning with only one start. Also, the air conditioner tensioner is in a very narrow place, how can I unscrew the nut.
My 2010 Prius has just started making an intermittent loud exhaust sound, mostly on start-up. It only lasts for a few seconds, but it's like somebody is turning a performance exhaust on and off. No codes yet, but have the start of the "death rattle." This exhaust sound is separate and different from that. Anybody else experience that sound?
Without doing an accurate vehicle inspection nobody will give you an accurate guess. You could have a loose shield or crack that once heats up is sealed. Or a loose connection or gasket in the exhaust. The other thing: Maybe it's a bad filter. Or low oil pressure. That's for the rattle.
You can do whatever you can to try to stave off the specter of this problem. All of what you suggested helps. Most of the "problems" found on Toyota engines were from extended lab condition style intervals on maintenance. But everyone without knowledge said it was die to bad motors. The design could be more prone anyhow. But it's not every car so people must be doing things right. And the ones not keeping up have the same predictable problem.
Yes. Check/ Replace the PCV valve periodically and install an oil catch can between PCV valve and intake manifold to keep everything clear of oil/ water-oil emulsion and carbon deposits. There is a dedicated topic on priuschat.
If this was my car I would install an oil catch can and change the oil and oil filter maximum every 5000 kilometres or 3200 miles or every three months, whichever comes first. (Like I always do)
It is a bad design engine. The engine burns oil and has excessive liquid build up in the intake manifold. Flawed piston ring design was updated in mid 2014. Oil / condensate mix in the intake along with blowby fed to the cylinders via the egr creates carbon and preignition. Egr intake is before the cat on these years; gen4 egr intake is after the cat and therefore much cleaner. Thermal cycling is also a problem for the cylinders due to stop start and poor coolant passage design. Cylinder insulators and revised coolant passages remedied uneven temps in gen4. I would replace the intake since the small egr ports finding the cylinders get blocked, plus Toyota revised the manifold design a few times, particularly important on the 2010-13 models. All 2015 hatchbacks and 2015-17 v's have the revised pistons and rings. 2014 models had a mid year production change when can be identified by tpye of Prius and manufacturing plant. The six digit vins after the factory (E0, E1, E3 or EJ) ids the first 2014 with the improved pistons and rings. T-SB-0169-16 DRIVETRAIN 2ZR-FXE PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN Last six digits in sequence; seventh from end is the factory Prius Hatchback JTDKN3DU#E0 358779 JTDKN3DU#E1 791355 Prius Plug In JTDKN3DP#E3 055768 Prius v wagon JTDZN3EU#E3 339374 JTDZN3EU#EJ 001475
Thank you... I currently have a gen2 that has been a darling at 177k miles... I am lifting this gen 2 and considering a gen 3 for a new commuter car I cant afford a used gen4... Gen 3 prices are becoming so affordable now ... Your info is greatly appreciated
Great Video. I've seen allot of TH-cam Videos on installing Oil Catch Cans (OCC) on the 3rd Gen Prius to stop and/or minimize the oil entering the intake manifold. I have a 2014 Toyota Prius with 50,000 miles oil changed every 3 months or 5,000 miles, changed PCV Valve twice and still have a 1/2" of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. My question is: What type of OCC is best for the 3rd Gen Prius and where is the best location to install it? Thanks!
So what is the solution to the this issue of oil accumulation in intake manifold ? Replacing the pvc valve, cleaning egr piping and cleaning intake manifold ????
I own 2 Prius and I have to clean that sludge once or twice a year. What is the reason that sludge appears there but on my other car that is not a Prius it had never appeared?
On Sunnysky321 comment. We all should know by now, the egr system and shutting off and on the motor causes head gasket failures. Has anyone done a complete egr delete? Ive done it with past vehicles and they run better with better fuel economy. Why cant we do this with prius system?
Great stuff good videos very informative keep the information flowing without getting too far behind LOL I have a 2014 Toyota Prius Plug-In and I purchased it at 126,000 Miles and some change and I am currently at 131,000 Miles I'm slowly replacing everything like break spark plugs all the filters mass air flow and it's running so great don't get me wrong it was running good to begin with but I can feel a difference My MPGs are staying at 54 very solid I drive 50 miles round-trip everyday I do about 12,000 miles a year This intake is very disturbing and intriguing I'm wondering how much more you should just change and replace if you gotten that far in front of the engine just the intake in that PVC
Sir i have 3rd gen Prius 2011 model. Its driven mileage is 350k. Now it can only driven 1500km range than it consumes more than a half of its engine oil. Kindly let me know its issues.
Thanks for this video. I worked on my 2010 Prius and noticed a puddle oil inside the manifold just like yours. I see some people placing Oil Catch Can (OCC). What are your thoughts on this and any recommendation of brands? Thank you.
Peter, Could you help me. I have a 2010 prius, I turn it on, the engine is ready but it does not accelerate and I could see that the throttle body does not open, I cleaned the egr valve, cleaned the manifold and it still does not start. I have the codes P0302, P0304 and P0401. I do not know what else to do. please help me.
My understanding this EGR system clogging problem began on the Gen 3 Prius in 2010 Model year and was fixed for the 2015 model year still a Gen 3. Am I correct? If yes what did Toyota do to fix it for 2015 Gen 3 and also for Gen 4 Prius starting in 2016 Model year?
They changed the piston and Ring design for 2015 to not burn oil like previous years. 2016 on they don't burn oil and redesigned the EGR system completely
Egr is a problem on all gen3 Prius which is 2010-2015 on a hatchback and 2012-17 on a v wagon. Rings and pistons were fixed by 2015 and is the number one root cause of head gasket fails.
The 2015-17 Prius v has the updated pistons and piston rings but otherwise is still a problematic GEN3 Prius engine. I would not buy one over 100,000 miles or for a price that would require me to finance it. Egr, brake booster, pcv, cylinder cooling and more were radically improved in gen4.
I have had oil end up in my air resonater in my 99 tacoma pre runner 2.7. Any idea what could cause also have a lean code p0171 checked and replaced almost everything to solve. Rough running when hot unless a give it a lot of throttle then it operates mostly normal again without stuttering
This is why you should add a OCC and also..... Never shut off your Prius while the engine is running, wait for engine to stop then shut off. Doing both and mine lasted 350k miles. Without a OCC the oil/fuel mixture will drain into the cylinder head and when you start it will blow the gasket. The EGR is a different problem that must be addressed or you will risk a misfire which can also cause blown head gasket
I need some ideas from y’all. I got a 92 4runner with a 3vz. I recently did a manual swap truck ran fine and I switched over the wiring harness and ecu to a manual. When I started it up the truck would surge and die. For a while it wouldn’t even start. When it does run the idle surges and I have to keep my foot on the gas at a stop to prevent it from dying. The weird thing is that sometimes it will work completely fine, exactly how it should. Then I shut it off come back 5 minutes later and its surging and wants to stall out. I’ve checked fuel pressure, valves, plugs wires, compression, MAF, distributor, vacuum hoses. I even switched the wiring harness and computer back to the original but it made no difference. Any ideas?
Not my favorite intake design. I kept up with mine and only had to clean out a little oil once. The EGR system is not much fun either, but definitely a good little car with surprising amount of cargo area.
@@markkrispin6944 I was unaware of the issue until about 90000 miles in. Thereafter, I cleaned it at 40000 mile intervals. That first time I had to clean out the intake, replace the PCV and I had to clean out the heat exchanger because it was barely allowing air to pass through.
I will just stay away from the 3rd generation 1.8 engine prius. Is already stressful enough to worry about a $3500 main battery, and now this? So, really, you'll be better off with a Honda Hybrid. Honda doesn't have the shaking or egr problems.
Can't imagine it's worth fixing a head gasket on this model. The money is better used in buying a new one. Fix the head gasket and you still have a declining battery, and possibly expensive failures in the unique differential, transmission, the Regen braking system and the power supply. All thousands of dollars in repairs. Use the carcass as a down payment and finance a new one. Five years of payments buys 10 -15 years of trouble free miles.
These v wagons are still getting $15k for the better 2015-17 gen3 models. So a rebuilt engine installed with new pistons in a 2012-14 is a good investment. Often $3,500-$5,000 at good independents. Rebuilt not just a replacement used engine. The vast majority of gen3s were sold from 2010-2013 so most used engines are from those cars. Salvage yards routinely remove the engine vin plates to hide the miles and years.
@@rj.parker Yes. And they have a good reputation. But they have many expensive hybrid replacement parts that fail. And when you do one repair, you still face the others, plus normal chassis aging. Traction battery, power supply, Regen brake system, rear diff with motor. Each of these do fail and each is around $4000 to replace (new). I had to junk a very well maintained AZ Highlander Hybrid Limited because the Toyota dealer's techs could not figure out which of these expensive systems was killing my replacement traction batteries (2) in 600 miles. Had to coordinate between Toyota and the battery rebuild company. I had spent $3000 and faced another $1000 for more diagnosis and $2000 -$5000 more, plus installing a third battery. When done I was still in a nice worn utility truck with 250,000 mi. Instead I sold it as is and put sales price and money that avoided the future repairs into a down payment and now pay $350 per mo for certified warrantied used '17 V6 AWD Highlander L truck with 85k that gets similar mpg, will outlive me and does all I need. I miss the '08 but am not towing it to the dealer regularly, diagnosing problems or wondering if it will complete the mission.
@@lawrenceralph7481 Your points are well taken but the Prius v is simpler than a Highlander and shares parts with the more common 2010-15 gen3 hatchbacks. For example there is no rear motor and the transaxle is bulletproof. As is the body, interior, suspension, physical brakes and control systems. Granted the high voltage battery will go sometime around 175k-225k and the "reconditioned" options fail quickly regardless of their "warranty". However for a gen3 Prius a new Toyota cell kit has sold for less than $1600 and you then get another 200k. A third party sells lithium battery cells for $2k which are directly compatible and add mpg and power. The gen3 Prius inverters have had occasional issues but are covered for 15 years (soon to be 20 years) unlimited miles. The brake boosters can be wild cards at $2k if they fail outside of a 10 year 150k mile warranty. Overall the biggest risk is the engine because of the low tension piston rings and compounding factors after they cause oil burning. In normal times I would sell before doing an engine replacement with a rebuilt unit. But with new cars often commanding $10k over similar cars three years ago AND the used market crazy high for at least two more years, maintenance becomes more viable. So if major maintenance makes sense to your financial situation, find an independent hybrid experienced shop and only use new cells in the hv battery.
@@rj.parker I have a 2013 Prius V and replaced fuel pump and cyclinder 1 issues replaced plugs.. but guys are saying it trans now.. but light keeps coming up cyc 1.. they want to replace trans.. other place wants to replace engine.. a video says to replace fuel injectors because it has the rattle which was worse but its coming back on this rattle.. after reading all comments.. I need to see if it can just run out and sell it I guess so I can buy something else.. who will buy it..????
@@Lisachelle The transaxle is bulletproof but uninitiated mechanics hear the severe startup rattle and think it is the transaxle. A common head gasket leak causes a misfire that codes and often fools shops into replacing plugs, coils or injectors with no long term success. Really it is wasted money changing those parts. Its coolant slowing leaking into a cylinder that causes the startup rattles, usually after the car has sat for hours. When it gets bad the car may rattle at stop signs and everytime the start stop engine cycles. The noise is coming from a slip damper between the engine and the transaxle. In a hybrid the electric motors in the transaxle have to synchronize constantly with the engine. The coolant fouled plug causes uneven rpms which do not sync with the electric motor. This causes the damper to slip until the plug fires again, usually within 15 seconds. So the engine guy is right, pulling and changing the transaxle is the same work as pulling the engine and would not fix the problem. Who would buy as is? Junkyard for $500. Craigslist or Facebook maybe $1500-$2000 with full disclosure of head gasket problem. Repair? Some will change the head gasket for $1500-$3000 depending on the shop. Should include rebuilding the head in that price. However the aluminum engine sometimes warps or the rattles bend the piston rods. So the smart shop recommends a rebuilt engine which includes new piston rings. Depending on your location (always include location when asking for advice because someone may know a good shop) the professionally rebuilt engine (not anybody can do it right) might cost $4000-$7000 installed with at least a years warranty. A good rebuilt engine will last another 150,000 miles with no oil burning or leaks. Southern California and Northern Florida have good hybrid shops.
Really dislike the EGR. What a mess in this one. I had a late 90s that had EGR clogging and it would cause no start on heat soaked engine, like if you stopped the car in the drive thru to wait for them to finish. Stay warm my friend, it seems very cold and with the rain it will be colder in the next few days where you are.
Peter, that video was AWESOME!! I learned a lot!! Pull not believe how much $$$$ you will save this customer! Please let us know the final cost to complete this repair in another video!
This is why the EGR system needs to be kept clean (and the PVC valve needs to be changed once-in-a-while). Neglect that, and it will blow the head gasket, every time.
i just cleaned my egr cooler, egr valve, and manifold last week. wasnt fun but glad its done!!! I also installed an oil catch can on it. pretty simple installation and it should help to minimize the oil pooling in the intake manifold.
Yep... same thing but I did 1 additional step....I unplugged the EGR valve. The reason was because you don't know when your EGR system will plug and cause a misfire which will blow your head gasket. Too risky. My engine ended up lasting 350k miles. The other thing is.... don't shut your car off while the engine is running, this can cause gas/oil inside the throttle body and cause misfire the next start up
@@modified93tc how many miles ago did you unplug the egr valve? and no issues with that???
good intel on the car shut off! makes sense.
thanks for reply
@@davek7640 about 100k miles ago no prob. With the design of these engines you're 1 misfire away from a blown head gasket and I didn't want to take that chance. It does set a check engine light tho
@@modified93tc mine is coding as Cyclinder 1 and I had spark plugs changed but still doing it.. guys are saying its transmission but code keeps coming back as C 1.. now I need to take it elsewhere as they want me to replace the whole trans.. but it could be fuel injectors or? Im at 170,000.. how can I help my car last longer.. I just paid it off.. ugh
im trying to figure out whats really wrong.. some guy said 6 months ago after he replaced the fuel pump that head gasket could be blown or needs to be replaced soon.. so each mechanic is different
@modified93tc Don't listen to this guy, you can NOT close or unplug the egr system permanently on this car. The cooler decreases intake temps preventing knock. If you close the egr system you'll blow your head gasket sooner. Keep it clean and change oil regularly and your headgasket will be fine.
Excellent upper cylinder lubrication.......
I own an 07 with barely 100 KMI. Thanks for making me aware of that issue. I don't loose oil between oil changes and it has given me reliable service on the original battery
Not a problem or worry on your 2007 as it is an entirely different engine. Gen2 Prius is almost bullet proof.
@@thomaskutches2613 I am never cozy not seeing the engine coolant temp in any of my cars. is there a specific location where I can install a temp sensor on the 07 prius so I can install a temp gage?
@@gerardoguzman5083 I think you can do this by plugging in the scanguage tool. Several guys use it on "priuschat" as it also gives you hybrid readings
@@thomaskutches2613 Thanks so much. I follow you closely to expand my DIY knowledge but hesitant to tinker around with the Hybrid
@@gerardoguzman5083 nothing to be afraid of as they really are not that different once you get into them.
Nice video. I think the oil pool in the throttle is the result of the hybrid operation and the PCV route design. You can clean the oil and/or add an OCC, but it will reappear shortly after. The blocked EGR circuit may cause rough engine running at idle/low-RPM. The real question is: What is the main culprit of the blown head-gasket?
Bad design. You can keep it clean to keep the stress off of it and it can still go. It just wasn’t one of their better designs.
Another great video! Peter your the best. Keep them coming.
wow profestional repair. Thanks for sharing
love your channel look forward to each exciting video i am a happy Toyota owner haha
That PCV valve is so low on the block. No wonder it sucks crankcase oil right in 🤦
People who drive this car in eco mode, hypermile it and never get the engine revving and hot will have this problem. Also changing oil on manufacturer recommendations will do this. My ct200h, same as this prius had 160km on it when I bought it, EGR was proper clean and almost no oil in intake. It's about how you drive this car.
Drive it normally, change oil every 5-10km with premium oil, clean egr once in a while and they will last forever.
Love the video nice to learn something new
I have a 95 corolla 1.6 gli vehicle. It works properly in LPG. It stumbles slightly on gasoline. When I turn on the heater, the idle speed drops slightly. It works in the morning with only one start. Also, the air conditioner tensioner is in a very narrow place, how can I unscrew the nut.
you should do a colab video with Car Care Nut! the combined knowledge of both of you would be amazing
I’ve only seen a couple of these Prius wagons.
Did this job on intake, egr and throttle body…kinda of a PIA
My 2010 Prius has just started making an intermittent loud exhaust sound, mostly on start-up. It only lasts for a few seconds, but it's like somebody is turning a performance exhaust on and off.
No codes yet, but have the start of the "death rattle." This exhaust sound is separate and different from that. Anybody else experience that sound?
Without doing an accurate vehicle inspection nobody will give you an accurate guess. You could have a loose shield or crack that once heats up is sealed. Or a loose connection or gasket in the exhaust. The other thing: Maybe it's a bad filter. Or low oil pressure. That's for the rattle.
clean the intakemanifold and complete EGR-system and your problems will be gone
Is there a way to prevent this from happening? Maybe replacing the pcv valve? Or regular oil changes?
You can do whatever you can to try to stave off the specter of this problem. All of what you suggested helps. Most of the "problems" found on Toyota engines were from extended lab condition style intervals on maintenance. But everyone without knowledge said it was die to bad motors. The design could be more prone anyhow. But it's not every car so people must be doing things right. And the ones not keeping up have the same predictable problem.
Yes. Check/ Replace the PCV valve periodically and install an oil catch can between PCV valve and intake manifold to keep everything clear of oil/ water-oil emulsion and carbon deposits. There is a dedicated topic on priuschat.
If this was my car I would install an oil catch can and change the oil and oil filter maximum every 5000 kilometres or 3200 miles or every three months, whichever comes first. (Like I always do)
So will regular oil changes and EGOR replacement be enough or is there more. Please excuse the typos, it keeps repeating the mistakes.
Thank you Peter. Time for a kraut break. )
For some reason, I always expect Peter to give us measurements in the metric system.
It is a bad design engine. The engine burns oil and has excessive liquid build up in the intake manifold. Flawed piston ring design was updated in mid 2014. Oil / condensate mix in the intake along with blowby fed to the cylinders via the egr creates carbon and preignition. Egr intake is before the cat on these years; gen4 egr intake is after the cat and therefore much cleaner. Thermal cycling is also a problem for the cylinders due to stop start and poor coolant passage design. Cylinder insulators and revised coolant passages remedied uneven temps in gen4. I would replace the intake since the small egr ports finding the cylinders get blocked, plus Toyota revised the manifold design a few times, particularly important on the 2010-13 models. All 2015 hatchbacks and 2015-17 v's have the revised pistons and rings. 2014 models had a mid year production change when can be identified by tpye of Prius and manufacturing plant. The six digit vins after the factory (E0, E1, E3 or EJ) ids the first 2014 with the improved pistons and rings.
T-SB-0169-16
DRIVETRAIN 2ZR-FXE
PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN
Last six digits in sequence; seventh from end is the factory
Prius Hatchback JTDKN3DU#E0 358779 JTDKN3DU#E1 791355
Prius Plug In JTDKN3DP#E3 055768
Prius v wagon JTDZN3EU#E3 339374 JTDZN3EU#EJ 001475
Thank you... I currently have a gen2 that has been a darling at 177k miles... I am lifting this gen 2 and considering a gen 3 for a new commuter car
I cant afford a used gen4... Gen 3 prices are becoming so affordable now ...
Your info is greatly appreciated
Great Video. I've seen allot of TH-cam Videos on installing Oil Catch Cans (OCC) on the 3rd Gen Prius to stop and/or minimize the oil entering the intake manifold. I have a 2014 Toyota Prius with 50,000 miles oil changed every 3 months or 5,000 miles, changed PCV Valve twice and still have a 1/2" of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. My question is: What type of OCC is best for the 3rd Gen Prius and where is the best location to install it? Thanks!
So what is the solution to the this issue of oil accumulation in intake manifold ? Replacing the pvc valve, cleaning egr piping and cleaning intake manifold ????
My intakes on my Toyotas are on top where they should be.
great video
I own 2 Prius and I have to clean that sludge once or twice a year. What is the reason that sludge appears there but on my other car that is not a Prius it had never appeared?
On Sunnysky321 comment. We all should know by now, the egr system and shutting off and on the motor causes head gasket failures. Has anyone done a complete egr delete? Ive done it with past vehicles and they run better with better fuel economy. Why cant we do this with prius system?
Great stuff good videos very informative keep the information flowing without getting too far behind LOL
I have a 2014 Toyota Prius Plug-In and I purchased it at 126,000 Miles and some change and I am currently at 131,000 Miles I'm slowly replacing everything like break spark plugs all the filters mass air flow and it's running so great don't get me wrong it was running good to begin with but I can feel a difference
My MPGs are staying at 54 very solid I drive 50 miles round-trip everyday I do about 12,000 miles a year
This intake is very disturbing and intriguing I'm wondering how much more you should just change and replace if you gotten that far in front of the engine just the intake in that PVC
Sir i have 3rd gen Prius 2011 model. Its driven mileage is 350k. Now it can only driven 1500km range than it consumes more than a half of its engine oil. Kindly let me know its issues.
Hello I have same problem on my Toyota Prius. It may reason of Oil decrease?
Great information, do you have the part number?
Thanks for this video. I worked on my 2010 Prius and noticed a puddle oil inside the manifold just like yours. I see some people placing Oil Catch Can (OCC). What are your thoughts on this and any recommendation of brands? Thank you.
Peter, Could you help me.
I have a 2010 prius, I turn it on, the engine is ready but it does not accelerate and I could see that the throttle body does not open, I cleaned the egr valve, cleaned the manifold and it still does not start. I have the codes P0302, P0304 and P0401. I do not know what else to do. please help me.
My understanding this EGR system clogging problem began on the Gen 3 Prius in 2010 Model year and was fixed for the 2015 model year still a Gen 3. Am I correct? If yes what did Toyota do to fix it for 2015 Gen 3 and also for Gen 4 Prius starting in 2016 Model year?
They changed the piston and Ring design for 2015 to not burn oil like previous years. 2016 on they don't burn oil and redesigned the EGR system completely
Egr is a problem on all gen3 Prius which is 2010-2015 on a hatchback and 2012-17 on a v wagon. Rings and pistons were fixed by 2015 and is the number one root cause of head gasket fails.
@@rj.parkerso you’re saying a 2016 Prius V would still have this issue or no?
The 2015-17 Prius v has the updated pistons and piston rings but otherwise is still a problematic GEN3 Prius engine. I would not buy one over 100,000 miles or for a price that would require me to finance it. Egr, brake booster, pcv, cylinder cooling and more were radically improved in gen4.
@@rj.parker Thank you
I put a oil catch can after cleaning intake erg cooler and changing pcv valve
can I be atleast your Spanner Boy Much love 🇺🇬 Mr Peter ......I love working on cars
Thanks for another great video!
I have had oil end up in my air resonater in my 99 tacoma pre runner 2.7. Any idea what could cause also have a lean code p0171 checked and replaced almost everything to solve. Rough running when hot unless a give it a lot of throttle then it operates mostly normal again without stuttering
Wonder if they used 0w-30 instead of 0w-16 if this would happen as much.
This is why you should add a OCC and also..... Never shut off your Prius while the engine is running, wait for engine to stop then shut off. Doing both and mine lasted 350k miles. Without a OCC the oil/fuel mixture will drain into the cylinder head and when you start it will blow the gasket. The EGR is a different problem that must be addressed or you will risk a misfire which can also cause blown head gasket
Is that a problem on 2nd gen prius too?
I need some ideas from y’all. I got a 92 4runner with a 3vz. I recently did a manual swap truck ran fine and I switched over the wiring harness and ecu to a manual. When I started it up the truck would surge and die. For a while it wouldn’t even start. When it does run the idle surges and I have to keep my foot on the gas at a stop to prevent it from dying. The weird thing is that sometimes it will work completely fine, exactly how it should. Then I shut it off come back 5 minutes later and its surging and wants to stall out. I’ve checked fuel pressure, valves, plugs wires, compression, MAF, distributor, vacuum hoses. I even switched the wiring harness and computer back to the original but it made no difference. Any ideas?
Take to a mechanic
No video on gas prices?
Still don't understand how did that oil endup in the intake manifold!!?
From the pcv
subscribed!
Wilkommen!
Would a "catch can" help this situation?
anybody know the part number for that ventilation valve?
I learn so much from your videos over the years.....what cause the head gasket to be blown?
Excessive crankcase pressure
👍
Not my favorite intake design. I kept up with mine and only had to clean out a little oil once. The EGR system is not much fun either, but definitely a good little car with surprising amount of cargo area.
How often and how many miles do you clean your EGR system out?
@@markkrispin6944 I was unaware of the issue until about 90000 miles in. Thereafter, I cleaned it at 40000 mile intervals. That first time I had to clean out the intake, replace the PCV and I had to clean out the heat exchanger because it was barely allowing air to pass through.
I will just stay away from the 3rd generation 1.8 engine prius. Is already stressful enough to worry about a $3500 main battery, and now this? So, really, you'll be better off with a Honda Hybrid. Honda doesn't have the shaking or egr problems.
OIL CATCH CAN
Won't solve the root cause which is oil consumption due to rings.
@@rj.parker right, but it will keep oil from accumulating at the throttle body.
Pcv valve is cheap engine repair is expensive.
Can't imagine it's worth fixing a head gasket on this model. The money is better used in buying a new one.
Fix the head gasket and you still have a declining battery, and possibly expensive failures in the unique differential, transmission, the Regen braking system and the power supply. All thousands of dollars in repairs.
Use the carcass as a down payment and finance a new one. Five years of payments buys 10 -15 years of trouble free miles.
These v wagons are still getting $15k for the better 2015-17 gen3 models. So a rebuilt engine installed with new pistons in a 2012-14 is a good investment. Often $3,500-$5,000 at good independents. Rebuilt not just a replacement used engine. The vast majority of gen3s were sold from 2010-2013 so most used engines are from those cars. Salvage yards routinely remove the engine vin plates to hide the miles and years.
@@rj.parker Yes. And they have a good reputation. But they have many expensive hybrid replacement parts that fail. And when you do one repair, you still face the others, plus normal chassis aging. Traction battery, power supply, Regen brake system, rear diff with motor. Each of these do fail and each is around $4000 to replace (new).
I had to junk a very well maintained AZ Highlander Hybrid Limited because the Toyota dealer's techs could not figure out which of these expensive systems was killing my replacement traction batteries (2) in 600 miles. Had to coordinate between Toyota and the battery rebuild company. I had spent $3000 and faced another $1000 for more diagnosis and $2000 -$5000 more, plus installing a third battery. When done I was still in a nice worn utility truck with 250,000 mi.
Instead I sold it as is and put sales price and money that avoided the future repairs into a down payment and now pay $350 per mo for certified warrantied used '17 V6 AWD Highlander L truck with 85k that gets similar mpg, will outlive me and does all I need.
I miss the '08 but am not towing it to the dealer regularly, diagnosing problems or wondering if it will complete the mission.
@@lawrenceralph7481 Your points are well taken but the Prius v is simpler than a Highlander and shares parts with the more common 2010-15 gen3 hatchbacks. For example there is no rear motor and the transaxle is bulletproof. As is the body, interior, suspension, physical brakes and control systems. Granted the high voltage battery will go sometime around 175k-225k and the "reconditioned" options fail quickly regardless of their "warranty". However for a gen3 Prius a new Toyota cell kit has sold for less than $1600 and you then get another 200k. A third party sells lithium battery cells for $2k which are directly compatible and add mpg and power. The gen3 Prius inverters have had occasional issues but are covered for 15 years (soon to be 20 years) unlimited miles. The brake boosters can be wild cards at $2k if they fail outside of a 10 year 150k mile warranty. Overall the biggest risk is the engine because of the low tension piston rings and compounding factors after they cause oil burning. In normal times I would sell before doing an engine replacement with a rebuilt unit. But with new cars often commanding $10k over similar cars three years ago AND the used market crazy high for at least two more years, maintenance becomes more viable.
So if major maintenance makes sense to your financial situation, find an independent hybrid experienced shop and only use new cells in the hv battery.
@@rj.parker I have a 2013 Prius V and replaced fuel pump and cyclinder 1 issues replaced plugs.. but guys are saying it trans now.. but light keeps coming up cyc 1.. they want to replace trans.. other place wants to replace engine.. a video says to replace fuel injectors because it has the rattle which was worse but its coming back on this rattle.. after reading all comments.. I need to see if it can just run out and sell it I guess so I can buy something else.. who will buy it..????
@@Lisachelle The transaxle is bulletproof but uninitiated mechanics hear the severe startup rattle and think it is the transaxle. A common head gasket leak causes a misfire that codes and often fools shops into replacing plugs, coils or injectors with no long term success. Really it is wasted money changing those parts. Its coolant slowing leaking into a cylinder that causes the startup rattles, usually after the car has sat for hours. When it gets bad the car may rattle at stop signs and everytime the start stop engine cycles. The noise is coming from a slip damper between the engine and the transaxle. In a hybrid the electric motors in the transaxle have to synchronize constantly with the engine. The coolant fouled plug causes uneven rpms which do not sync with the electric motor. This causes the damper to slip until the plug fires again, usually within 15 seconds. So the engine guy is right, pulling and changing the transaxle is the same work as pulling the engine and would not fix the problem. Who would buy as is? Junkyard for $500. Craigslist or Facebook maybe $1500-$2000 with full disclosure of head gasket problem. Repair? Some will change the head gasket for $1500-$3000 depending on the shop. Should include rebuilding the head in that price. However the aluminum engine sometimes warps or the rattles bend the piston rods. So the smart shop recommends a rebuilt engine which includes new piston rings. Depending on your location (always include location when asking for advice because someone may know a good shop) the professionally rebuilt engine (not anybody can do it right) might cost $4000-$7000 installed with at least a years warranty. A good rebuilt engine will last another 150,000 miles with no oil burning or leaks. Southern California and Northern Florida have good hybrid shops.