FIRST 5 jigs that every woodworker needs || Beginner Woodworking.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Jigs are the way to maximise the tools that you have. Whether you are a beginner or an expert, the more jigs you have the easier your building process becomes.
Here are my 5 to get you started.
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🔴Links to the tools you saw in the video.
JIG 1 - Saw Guide
Makita Circular Saw - UK LINK - amzn.to/3HD6UX6
US LINK - amzn.to/3vOYhWN
JIG 2 - Thicknesser Jig
Mellif Glue Gun - UK LINK - amzn.to/47Vo9O2
US LINK - amzn.to/3WR58e2
Shims - UK LINK - amzn.to/4683HdP
US LINK - amzn.to/4d3s4eK
JIG 3 - Jointer Jig
Swanson large and small speed square set - UK LINK - amzn.to/3WQHfTY
US LINK - amzn.to/4bGtH1X
MicroJig Dovetail clamps - UK LINK - amzn.to/44Y7QAj
US LINK - amzn.to/4bqFhhh
Microjig 1/2 inch dovetail bit - UK LINK - amzn.to/4f3eMAZ
US LINK - amzn.to/4cYKnSq
Makita Router Bare - UK link - amzn.to/3SBv8Y0
US link - amzn.to/3u9KJ7R
Card Sanders - UK LINK - amzn.to/3OjDbq2
US LINK - amzn.to/3OjhM0d
JIG 4 - Shooting Board
Stanley Low angle Hand Plane - UK - amzn.to/3OlrT4N
US - amzn.to/4981wqQ
JIG 5 Bench Hook
JAPANESE Rip/Cross Cut saw - UK LINK - amzn.to/3Oijy1q
US LINK - amzn.to/4bbiK8z
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. It is a small income to the channel at no extra cost to the buyer.
All UK links are for products that I have used. US links are the closest I can find. They are recommendations made from my experience, yours may differ.
#diy #Woodworking #woodworker #doityourself #jigs
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I know it can be hard to see this on videos but these jigs overall took a fair amount of time to make. So please dont feel like you are not doing it right if the shooting board takes 4 hours to make, thats absolutely fine. Enjoy the builds and thank you for watching.
I love this comment, it's so easy to see people "race" through projects in their videos. Thank you for reminding us to take time and enjoy the project
Agreed. Side note... making a few dovetail slots along the length of the saw jig would allow matchfit users to have an adjustable back support.
You really should use the wider side of your saw on the saw guide. Watching your saw wobble and weave back and forth, making what I can only assume was an awful wavy cut, made my head spin. It may be a straight cut, but the top and bottom of the board are many different lengths based on the video.
I made a jig like that with two sides, one for my cordless saw and one for my corded saw and used the wide side on both and it works like a champ with no float like yours.
Hi 👋. Love this video.
Question: you mentioned using a hot glue gun with the thicknesser/planer jig. Are there other ways you could recommend to help steady and level the workpiece?
@@adidell wooden wedges Will work as well. You can put blue masking tape on the bottom of your wedge and on the sled where you are putting the wedge. Put a dab of super glue on the blue tape and slide your wedge in till it touches the wood and the super glue will hold it in place. When you're done, take the blue tape off and it is good as new again
I made the circular saw jig about 20 years ago and used 18 mm birch plywood for the fence as you have done but hardboard /6mm MDF for the base Cheaper to replace but also stable and thinner for more depth of cut and also as others have pointed out use the wide side of the saw for stability. I made the same thing for a router for trimming off door bottoms and tops when door hanging and after twenty years I still use them with the same piece of MDF on the base very useful jigs!
Great idea with the router. Love that it is still going strong so long after construction. Thank you.
The planer sled is very worthwhile. However I recommend putting the cleat on the leading end, not trailing. The reason for that is the rollers are on top pushing the timber being flattened through. With the cleat at the front, the rollers pull the timber through, which pushes against the cleat, and forces the sled to go with it. I enjoyed the video - some great tips!
This seems to be one that divides people. as someone who is learning I think that you are spot on. The logic makes perfect sense. Thank you for commenting.
@@startmaking1 I do agree 😁
Are you suggesting to turn the jig around and run the cleat end through first and the tailing end has no cleat? Im new to woodworking as well and I've made the sled, but i wanna use it correctly lol.
@@chrispayne673 Yes, that's correct.
@chrispayne673 to explain more clearly, the rollers are above the wood, rotating in a counter-clockwise direction. Because the wood is being pushed from above, if there was zero friction between the wood and the sled (which isn't the case, but the principal still applies), the rollers would tend to push the wood off the sled, leaving the sled behind. By putting the cleat at the front, the sled has no choice but to be pulled along with the wood.
If the rollers were underneath, having the cleat at the back would make more sense.
This is a commonly debated principal, but to me, the cleat at the front is the way to go.
Question: why don’t you use the wide part of the base of the circular saw for support? It looks quite wobbly in your video and might not leave a square edge?
It's an interesting point. I mentioned to Alex at Grey Otter Studios today that I dont know why I did that. He has a video today with one like you suggest. The issue I think is that my cut markers are on the thin section so I have always run this along straight edges and the habit has stuck. You are spot on though, definitely more stable on the thicker side. I guess I have never been too badly affected by it as I now tidy it up on the table saw.
rookie mistake Mark.!! Alternatively if you prefer that direction of cut/ stance/ habit use a standard saw with the blade on the right side of the handle, - line of sight isn’t important on a jig.!!!
@ianmurray3820 I know. Silly really. Gives me something for an end of year, 'I was wrong' video I guess. although that is filling up pretty quickly lol.
Agreed - I came straight to the comments to check if this was raised yet :) It's a brilliant jig and definitely a quick win for any woodworker without a track saw. But for sure would be easier to use with the wider part of the saw base supported.
Just note that while having the large side of the saw base on the jig is more stable, it can also reduce the overall depth of cut the saw is capable of as many saws’ motor housing will hit the upper layer of the guide before bottoming out to full depth. Easy fix is to not use 3/4 or 1/2” ply but only 1/4” for the top layer. Plus you are already losing the thickness of the bottom layer of the jig.
Love the table saw jig. Simple, yet ingenious 👏🏼
Thank you very much Iain.
To fine tune the fence in the last jig, you could just use two identical wedges. Put the fence so you leave enough space between fence and piece you want to cut, put the wedges between fence and piece, so they oppose each other and create edge parallel to the fence, and just push them into each other until they support your piece.
That is a really good idea. Thank you.,
Great stuff as usual. Thank you.
You can use the poor man's 'track saw' guide to joint table top boards, and it works really well. Just clamp the boards together and run your circular saw right down the seam. You do lose a tiny bit of material, but the boards are perfectly mated and there will be no stressed joints.
Also, if you start out with a larger bottom board for your homemade track saw you can cut one side with the thin part of your saw plate( like you did ) then cut the opposite side with the larger side plate which will give you another option to cut from when you need more stability.
Take care.
Now that I am going to try. My boards were too long for the jointing jig I made and after all that work I was really cross. The track saw trick would have been brilliant. Also great advice on the track. I cant believe I didnt use the wide side. And on the same day that Alex at Grey Otter released his and he did. I wont ever live it down lol.
@@startmaking1 That's funny, but I wouldn't worry about. If you're right-handed then it's a lot easier to use the smaller side.
On the jointing I recommend labeling the pieces, and keep in mind that you're using a thin blade, so it might take several passes depending how bad your boards are. This is where you lose material.
I see your subs are going up. Congrats. Well deserved.
Thats really kind. Thank you.
Being super picky here. Perhaps using the fuller base plate would prevent some of the wobblies I noticed a about 2:22. As far as the thicknesser, Peter Millard shows a really neat tool (not available in the USA) that doubles as a jointer.
Not super picky bud, super spot on. The wobbles are real and I had no idea.
Clear and comprehensive
Thank you very much.
I'd been thinking of getting a router for a while. I took the plunge today (pun very much intended) and I bought one. Looking forward to trying the dovetail bit now. Thanks for the video
Love the pun. If it is a trim router or the bit is burning or struggling. Consider a few passes with a straight bit first. Nothing wider that the thinest part of the dovetail.
@@startmaking1 thanks for the tip. It is indeed a trim router. The same Makita one you also have I think. Time to head back over to your router table video. As always, thanks for the great content
Excellent, Mark. I can't tell you how much I enjoyed you putting the ply on the table saw and then breaking it down with your circular saw. That's a woodworkers move. Brilliant!! Now, remember the circular saw straight cutting jig is circular saw brand specific because if you use a Makita saw to set the guide, this offset may be different from a DeWalt or Milwaukee (I've made this mistake in the past). It's the same as the concept (re. kerf) you mention at your tapering jig. That modification on your bench hook miter/mitre guide then makes it look like the old fashioned three sided hand saw miter/mitre box which had parallel sides and we just cantilevered one side so that it could be secured to the bench, saw horse, or table. This box supports the saw on both sides of the cut. It is a little less versatile depending on how wide one makes the base, but it is tried and true. I still have my grandfather's as a museum piece, and it will still work in a pinch. Another huge thumbs up.
lol. Love it. I am very tempted every time to see if I can wield an entire sheet of 3/4 inch ply through the table saw to cut it down. I think it was bourbon moth I saw who can do it. But his arms are bigger than my legs and he is way more experienced. Not to mention the space. Didnt think about brands on the jig. But then I also didnt use the right side of the base as everyone has said. Such a simple mistake lol. As for the one I think I did ok on, the bench hook, it was a mitre box that gave me the idea. I used one for ages until I eventually cut through it. Was such a useful accessory to have. Though mine was just a cheap plastic one. Goes to show that there are very few purely new inventions left in this space, for good reason. If it aint broke, as they say. Take care bud.
@@startmaking1 Mark, though you may be tempted, don't do it. What you did was a first class move. In my day, I was able to manhandle a sheet through the saw, but it was never pretty. One is better off breaking it down and then cleaning it up as you did. There is a line in Shakespeare (your guy, eh) akin to, "there is nothing new under the stars." You, my friend, are doing a great job. We all live and learn. To wit, after close to seventy years, I learned how to shuck corn without leaving the silk on the ear about two weeks ago. Drive on, you're doing brilliantly.
I do currently have a track saw, but can confirm that jig #1 was the first jig I ever made, about 15 years ago
I bet yours was better than mine. Just learnt that I should be using the wide part of the base. what an error lol. A little jealous of the track saw I must say.
@@startmaking1oh haha that’s a funny little oversight. I never made that error on mine, but I’ve made a million similar such errors overall in my woodworking/renovation endeavours.
The track saw is great; highly recommended for anyone who gets to the point they can justify the expense. But I also recommend anyone who can’t justify the expense to not even think about it in the meantime.
Great ideas Mark, always enjoy your videos 👍
Thank you Jim
Wonderful innovation to that bench hook. It makes it work more like a miter box, except you can accommodate wider boards. I love it.
Hey bud. Thank you as always. Hope you are doing well.
Been meaning to make a few jigs and this has spurred me to do it now.
Brilliant. I made the video because I had been putting them off myself. Good luck
Had the same squareness issues bought a new Faithful No5 problem solved😊
Thank you George. Any excuse for me to get another plane is always welcome.
I made my circular saw DIY track the other way around - so the largest part of the saw base has support. More stable that way, I believe.
You are spot on. Not sure why I keep doing it this way. Thank you.
Yes. Surprised you do it short side.. also pretty certain your "back stop" on the planer sled is supposed to be on the front....
@mrboics. You are right about the circular saw. I dont think I have done the thicknesser sled wrong. I think that stop is to push the wood through . I dont know how it would help if it went through first. Maybe I am wrong.
Beat me too it. Just watch the height of the fence compared to the motor on the circular saw.
Mark, I still think you ought to write a book on your woodworking tips & tricks. This video has some great tips on jigs foe woodworking, I don't think one ever has too many jigs or if any set amount is enough. It seems like every new project could use a new jig or two. I've made several cutoff sleds for my table saw, including one for mitered corners on picture frames & jewelry boxes. My small benchtop drill press is another tool that likes jigs. A fence that pivots at one end & is clamped at the other has proved to be useful. Have you ever tried edge planning boards with your thicknesser? It does work & if you have multiple boards for the same width, you can do several on edge at once or do them individually. The nice thing about woodworking is it never get boring. And none of us ever knows it all. See you in the next video & the one before this, that I somehow missed.
To tag onto this, long form videos seem to be doing well for other creators. A compilation video of your shorter jig videos would likely do very well, as would a compilation video of your shed build. People seem to like to press play and “let her rip.”
You know @Damon_Barber. I have been toying with this idea for months now. I didnt want to just stick 5 videos together with no thought though. I wanted to be able to narrate a bit through them and then suddenly it becomes a huge undertaking. And I also did want to have my existing audience feel duped by showing them things they have seen. Silly really as if you get a lot of views on a compilation video it can be huge for a channel like mine. the shed series would be fairly easy but I did do the speed run of it. Maybe a look back after a year of use would be good with the full build. Kind of like a how to and how I would do it differently. But the jigs and home made tools would be a good one and maybe French cleat as I have a few of those. thank you for the advice. Very much appreciated.
Thank you @billfromnh I once wrote a book, fiction mind you, but after I finished I just pressed save and have not looked at it again. Not sure I could on woodworking. I still feel like I have a way to go before I can do that. But I appreciate the compliment. I am currently trying to decide a design for a table saw sled as this is what I need next,. But like you I think multiple ones are the way to go. Much harder to make into a video though. Interesting idea on the edge planning in the thicknesser. I sat for a while looking at mine wondering if it could be done. Decided against it then but I have some pretty thick boards I could try it with. Appreciate the help. thank you.
Great Video!! I made the the "track saw" Jig a while ago and I find that if you align the Fence on the Motor side of the Circular Saw you have Much more of the Saw table resting on the Jig... Also ... Be mindful of the Waste Side of the cut! I have several Projects that are about 1/8" smaller than was the intention!
Your way is far better than mine bud. And definitely a good bit of advice on the kerf. Thank you.
Great video, Mark. I made the jointer sled earlier this year. The one thing about it that may be obvious but is worth mentioning is that if you use the fence as your guide you are restricted to jointing boards that are about the width or less than that of the sled. If you use the mitre-track under the sled (as you did) you can joint wider boards. Now to get round to making that shooting board.
Hi James, That is a really good point that I didnt consider. Thank you. I am always surprised at how often I use my shooting board. It's a good one to have.
Hi Mark, I also didn't think I needed or could justify a track saw until I borrowed one. Massive game changer for me in lots of different ways, they're also excellent for jointing wood 👍
Thank you Martin. Now I am tempted to look at track saws again. At least I can blame you.
Great stuff. When I made my circular saw guide i used a thin piece of ply to get more depth of cut. 1/8" hardboard was great for that. I also cut one side for the skinny width of the saw base and one side for the thick. I have the same sled and glue gun for my planer sled it's truly great for the price.
That sounds like a way better guide than mine. The easiest by far is the planer sled and possibly the most effective. I have to say that of all of the tools I have tested that glue gun is a real win. Thanks as always Evan.
Great Vid...will say though that the sides of your plane do not necessarily need to be at right angles to the sole as to perfect your edge you would adjust your planes lateral adjustment.
This is true. And is not a problem so long as you have a dedicated plane to use on the board. Otherwise it is a lot of back and forth with adjustments.
Perhaps you may want to try using the skill saw on the other side of the cut to have a MUCH more stable cut , that side is too small for a good surface .
You are spot on. Thank you.
great explanation
Thank you very much.
Great video! Very helpful. Well done
Thats really nice. and I really do appreciate it. Thank you
Adding strips of sandpaper to the bottom of your track saw jig might help it hold firmer to the ply surface.
simple idea and I bet it would work. Thank you.
Thank you Sir.🎉
Thank you so much. I really appreciate it.
I've followed and rang the bell, months ago, then never saw a video from you again. And this great video came up and I had to ring the bell again?.
YT has gotten weird. I've had to resub to accounts I've been subbed to for years recently
YT is a mystery to me. I hear this a lot. The algorithm is key I guess and maybe it thinks there are videos you prefer to watch. I find it offers me mainly videos like the last one I watched so if I watch one video on lets say editing techniques, suddenly half of the recommendations are for editing over woodworking. Even though I am not subbed to an editing channel and I have watched hundreds of woodworking videos. It's a mystery.
I love the Matchfit system! I have 2 Matchfit 'panels' - one is for jointing like yours and the other I attach it to my table saw fence to extend the height of the fence.
I love the sound of the second. I actually need something like that for my next project. Thank you for the inspiration.
I enjoyed watching this video, as always! Great ideas! I actually have 2 plastic miter boxes… This video gave me the idea of mounting one to a base to keep it from moving. That has been my biggest frustration with those things - they slide all over the place.
Looking forward to the next video!
Thank you Damon. Way back when, I used to have a plastic mitre box permanently screwed onto my bench. Was a great tool. Though I eventually cut through it and never replaced it. Before mounting it, I felt the same pain as it slid over the bench. And made a horrible squeaking that only the edge of hard plastic can. One with bench dogs under it would be a good thing. Anyway, take care bud.
Hi Mark,
Building in a spare bench hook… genius! 😂
I’m glad you gave the ‘health’ warning that some of these jigs take a bit of time to make. As it happens, I’ve already made 4 of the 5, which suggests I’m making progress. I would have the main base plate of my circular saw supported on my jig as I can’t cut square for toffee. Still, all good jigs with a light seasoning of great humour.
Instead of linking to each tool you use in the info, you should look into creating an Amazon shop front, where you can list all the products from all videos in one place. See ‘Proper diy’ on TH-cam for an example.
Looking forward to future videos of you using these jigs to make stuff.
Hi Roger.
I hear a lot of people saying that YT videos make them feel like they are underperforming as they cant make it look as easy as the video does. I had not considered that before. You are spot on about the saw guide. I would recommend Alex over at grey otters video but if I spotted it right, you have seen that already. His is way better than mine. I tried to get a shop front. Something like Badgers workshop has but couldn't do it for some reason. I think I will try again. Though it did drive me to load all the tools and links onto my website. That reminds me, I need to update all that. Fun. I have a video in the works for these jigs that I think will be very interesting. At least it was for me. Wont be long. Take care bud.
I watched “this far” always do, have a gr8 weekend
Thank you. I hope you are having a great weekend too.
Hi Mark, Very handy jigs and easy enough to make, another great idea to make projects a lot easier to build. As always a great video, catch you soon Take care
Thank you all round Shaun
Love your videos. But, on the first jig - seems you are using your saw backwards and just making it more difficult to keep the saw level. Some might say it could be a bit dangerous as well. I think the larger portion of the baseplate should be supported whenever possible.
Thank you. And yes, I cant believe I didnt see it before. You re spot on.
Great stuff as ever Mark. Circ Jig now on my 'to do' list.
Thank you Chris. Worth checking out Alex over at grey otter studios. He released a build for one today and I think his is better. It supports the thick edge of your circular saw base.
On the thickness planer sled you should put the stop to the front when you run the wood through. The sled is not being pulled through, the wood is. The rollers are on the top. So it will push against the stop and pull the sled along.
Yes, I realise this now, appreciate the advice. I was considering that the speed of the blades spinning towards the infeed would warrant the baton. But you are right it is for the rollers not kick back. Thank you.
A great video as always. As soon as I have had time to build my workshop I will for sure be building some jigs. Your de-mistifying of the shooting board in particular is of interest to me.
I don't know what you use for waxing blades and surfaces but I use those cheap PoundLand type shop tea lights. Got a bag of 50 of them for £1 some time ago and still have more than 40 left.
Thank you. In all honesty some of these I am building for the first time. But I have always had a shooting board of some kind. This is by far the nicest one though. I too use the cheap tea lights. Take the metal surround off and there is a small metal disc on the base. I stick this to a magnet that is glued on my plane till. Keeps me from losing them.
@@startmaking1 The magnet idea is a good one, I will have to do the same. :)
Very interesting video, thanks for making it. You give newbie woodworkers much hope that they can achieve fairly complex things.
I really like the idea of a ‘two points of contact’ bench hook. I’m definitely going to try that one. Have you attempted the t-track idea yet?
Ken from Sunny ☀️ Southport 👍😊
Wow, thank you . The t track is good in theory but I think that as it is will work ok for now. I may need a few more holes for flexibility though. The problem with t track is that. worry is has too much play in it and the 2nd point of contact may end up out of line. I will experiment though at some point.
There have been occasions when working with small peices of wood I have used a low angle block plane on my shooting board rather than my low angle jack.
now that sir is genius. I am now tempted to make a mini board.
Excellent jigs. I have the one for the thickness planer. But I like the dovetail jig for the table saw. I do not own a hand plane and don't think I ever will. Thanks
Thank you.
Didn’t think I’d want a plane until I got one, now I love using then and have a dozen…
As always, a pleasure to watch and well presented!!!
Thank you john. That's very kind
Hey Mark..!! You can use that not quite square plane on your shooting board- just by using the old lateral adjuster to bring the cutting edge perpendicular to the base board.!!! - something you check every time you pick up a hand plane I’m sure.!!☝️☝️☝️☝️
You are spot on with this but that started to drive me nuts as then it was off for normal use. Though in a pinch you are absolutely right. Last bit made me laugh as I cant remember the last time I have checked the alignement before the first pass unless after sharpening. I usually take a pass, realise I am off, swear, promise to always check first. adjust and carry on. Then next time repeat lol,.
Ply costs like a boeing's wing in my area today.
So yes, it will break the bank...
Love the analogy. It's not too bad where I am and so these probably only cost £50 in ply. Something like that. It's not perfect quality but needs must.
The "door Board" cutting edge can also change if you ever replace your saw blade. I just made a new jig, still something to consider.
Very true. Thank you.
See Mark, I knew you would make the stand off ie the support bar you just demonstrated! LOL. Who said multi functioning is not the best. Now as you improved my idea I have to get out in the shop and redo that yet again with dog holes thanks to you buddy. LOL.
I had a lot of fun making these. A little with the first couple but the last one was definitely good fun. I really could just spend all day making workshop tools, accessories and jigs.
@@startmaking1 Tool making is so much fun. I am making a chip breaker screwdriver at the moment.
The jointer sled is my second most used table saw accessory. I've worn one our and am on my second one, still less than buying a jointer.
I really like mine so far. I have actually so far used it more for angled cuts which I would have struggled with before as I dont have a band saw.
Good Video once again and good explination on how to do it. Thank you.
Thank you William.
Pro tip for cutting plywood sheets dead straight, dead square and to very tight tolerances... find a DIY store that offers a board cutting service. Yes it's a cheat, but if you're doing a project with lots of cutting it can save hours, giving you more time for finishing and finessing (or am I the only one who often runs out of times meaning the finishing gets rushed?). Recent example, I replaced our kitchen doors and drawer fronts with painted 18mm ply. Wickes did the cutting in about 15 minutes and every measurements was spot on. With a circular saw it would've taken me hours, and I have no illusions that I could've matched the accuracy. I bet I would've made some critical mistake that would've cost far more in wastage than the cutting charge. The time saved meant I had enough time to seal and fill the ply before painting, and to sand between coats. Not having to rush the finishing resulted in a far better result.
That said, these are all really useful jigs. The only one I've made so far is the Cosman shooting board which is a superb bit of kit! For shooting I luckily won a very cheap Record T5 plane on eBay a while back, the T5 is a standard No 5 with tapped holes on both sides for screwing in a shooting handle. It feels far more controlled than shooting with a standard No 5, plus having a dedicated shooting plane allows me to grind the blade edge completely straight as recommended for shooting.
That is so true. Do they still offer this in the UK. I dont think my local B and Q still does. Will have to check. I personally rush the finish as I am so keen to get the project done and collect the endorphins. I have to be really strict with myself. Oh, I am really jealous of the shooting handle. I have been trying to figure out making one for myself some how as a kind of attachment. And having a plane just for each job is brilliant. Kind of like a set of golf clubs. Or at least a blade you can interchange.
@@startmaking1 Wickes in Southampton offer the cutting service, as do several local lumber yards, so you'll probably find somewhere local for you if you Google and phone around.
The Record T5 is basically a standard number 5 with threaded holes in both sides. They're not super pricey on eBay, but you can find cheaper No 5s (modern Handyman planes don'ts appeal to collectors), it wouldn't be difficult to drill and tap some M6 threaded holes, and then make a handle with some stud bar and a file handle. Actually Mark, if you're not in a hurry I will have a spare No 5 Handyman after I've restored an antique 5 that was gifted to me, I could do the shooting handle mod on the Handyman for you if you like?. The only thing you'd need to source would be a blade as I've ground the current blade to a very rounded profile for fast 'hogging off' and it's far too useful to part with. If/when I do it, there'll be no charge other than postage, I'd rather gift my unwanted tools to someone who will use them than have them clutter my workshop, plus I reckon it'll be an informative project.
'Liike a set of golf clubs' is a great comparison. Since my last comment I've tweaked a no 5 (don't know why, but I prefer 5s to 4s) so that I can really close the mouth to an incredibly fine gap. So now I start with the heavy removal rounded Handyman (basically a big scrub plane) to quickly get near size, then refine the dimensions with an intermediate no 5 that has a flatter blade set for a finer cut, then do the final finish with the superfine finishing plane. Saving the finishing plane for just the last few passes also retains it's super sharp edge for far longer. The rounded roughing plane takes most of the punishment, but it's not critical if that takes a few dings and leaves a few ridges. The intermediate plane has a more sheltered life and the finisher is completed cosseted. It's way more efficient and rewarding than just constantly resharpening a single blade (especially when you hit a concealed nail) plus the finish is superb. I'm hoping that tear-out and sandpaper become thing of the past.
Another good 'un, thanks Mark, keep 'em coming and stay lucky!
Thank you Paul. Take care bud.
"get a straight edge already!"
Thank you. I was waiting for someone to demand that.
Thank you for this video! It was great!
Thats really kind. Thank you.
Great video. For the first jig I'd be happier if the bigger side of the saw was placed on the jig for more stability. I actually made the second (straight edge) jig last week with t-track. However I simply didn't consider adding a runner underneath, I was planning just to run it against the edge. Much prefer your idea so back to the shed for a small modification for that one 😀
You are spot on Chris. I added the runner as I am not an expert on the table saw and running the jig along the fence just opened up more margin for error to be honest. At least it is an easy fix for your jig. Does mean having grooves in your outfield table though.
@@startmaking1 Luckily, I think we have the same table saw 😀
On that last jig you show to cut angles and the right angles - simply use a couple of suitably sized (matched) wedges - not only does this make for infinitely adjustable space fillers but they will also act as clamping blocks at the same time... you still need your 'fence' to adjust in and out though but it does not then end up as the clamping force as the wedges will.
Oh wow, so simple and a really good idea . thank you.
@@startmaking1 my mind is simple...
Good stuff the stop should be on the front on the planer jig
Thank you. That is the second time someone has said this. Im confused now. I haven't seen one made with the stop at the front. Is that because of the direction the blades spin. Interesting.
Good ideas.
Thank you Robert.,
Big fan of the jointer sled - that's going on my list to make!
Mine is rough as anything and still works a charm. You could also try the micro jig clamps now you have a router.
Mark, there has been much talk, about using
the wide sole, of the circular saw, on the straight edge.
I have seen a double sided straight edge, so you could
just flip it around, to fit your situation, at the time. 😁✌🖖
Yeah, I was wrong on this one. But I am glad that I have content for an 'I was wrong' video at the end of the year lol. Double sided is a smart idea. I think I will fix mine today. Thanks bud.
I'd make the first jig such that the base of the circular saw can actually be supported by the jig. The portion you use as the fence can be narrower (2.54mm) and the redundant material for the fence used to support the saw instead. No brainer.
You would be absolutely spot on bud.
Nice job mate couple really cracking jig ideas there. Thicknesser getting a mention 🤣 love it. Hope your good bud certianly couple I'll be making up there. Cross cut sled a think could have been added but again i no not everyone has table saw so reckon your 5 were on point 👍🏴
Appreciate that bud. First time this has been on a video I think. I remember when I got it and just couldn't use it lol. You are right about the sled but that needs its own video I think.
@@startmaking1 think you've just given yourself another video and project 😉. Yea a remember you telling me you had it and not wanting to display 🤣 it's out there now. All great ideas though 👍🏴
For the MatchFit tapering jig... If you can stop the clamp grooves before the saw side of the edge, it provides a safety net for accidentally pushing the clamp too far... into the line of the saw. Don't ask me how I know.
Now that is pure genius. Such a simple adjustment but a huge save.
Useful info, enjoying the content
Thank you Stuart.
Great ideas.
Thank you Mark.
A plane does not have to be square on its sole to side for it to be used on a shooting board. It is the planes blade relative to the bit of wood being planed that dictates if it will be square.
You are correct but as I dont have a plane dedicated to the shooting board I dont want to keep adjusting the planes back and forth.
@@startmaking1
It only takes a few minutes with sharpening to adjust a plane blade to square relative to its shooting board usage. Even if the plane is completely square the blade still has to be relative to the shooting board. Obviously if the plane is really warped it might fall out side the adjustment angle of the blade. If That is the case a new board needs to be introduced with an angle to help the planes angle. There is nothing wrong with anything you stated in the videos.
Get Jiggy Wit It!!! Sorry, i had to lol
lol, I cant believe that you are the first. Maybe that should have been on the thumb nail.
Why do you use the thin part of the circular saw base? Would it not be more stable and ensure 90 degree cut using the wider part of the base?
My error here. You are spot on.
2:38 Would it not make sense to make a jig which supports the wide edge of the sole plate, to lessen the chance of the saw wobbling off-square as we can see happens in this cut?
EDIT. Just saw someone beat me to it. D'oh!
you are spot on. And dont worry about offering the answer after someone already has. Gives more chance that others will see it and not make my mistake, Thank you.
About the circular saw jig. Why did you make the saw rest on the short part of the saw. It looks really unstable.
Very good point . Much better on the wide section.
The first jig, make it so the larger part of your saw plate is riding in the jig, not the smaller part. More stable, less tilt issues which you can see when you're using it....
Common mistake with your second jig, place the stopper at the front, not back, so turn your jig around and the planer forces the wood against the support.....and you won't need hot glue.
Wow, both are great bits of advice and much appreciated. thank you,
Not sure the merit of t-track on bench hooks because the space in front of the stop serves as a chopping board for chisel work. They are also short-term jigs because the saw guides widen with use, the cutting gutters get "deeper" with time, and they start to look ratty with time. I also avoid using screws on bench hooks because you are guaranteed to cut through them at some stage.
lol, and I did. I actually cut the footage a little of how cross I was at cutting into a screw. You re spot on about the t track too. I have a tendency to over engineer.
You lost me at the first jig: the circular saw guide. You have the saw riding the jig on it's narrow side - this means the wide side can weigh it down and lift the narrow side off the jig a bit giving you less chance at a perfect perpendicular cut.
You are correct. Shame I lost you as the last few are the best.
Can anyone explain to me which is the difference between doing a perfect 90 degree angle with the plane with his jig and doing a perfect 90 degree angle with a tablesaw?
In my opinion the shooting board is really for fine tuning or cleaning up a hand cut 90 degrees. I use it to sneak up on a fit that the table saw is a little too aggressive for.
Does the planer jig reduce tear out as well?
I have found it helps a little with snipe, though adjusting the in feed and out feed has a greater effect there. Any dip in the wings can cause snipe. Tear out for me is usually a case of me sending the board through with the grain facing the wrong way. Like using a hand plane against the grain, (stroking a cat backwards)
Ok. I just watched the first few minutes with your sheetgoods rip jig.
I have to ask, why would you only support the narrow part of the circular saw foot instead of the wide side that supports the weight of the motor? As you were using it I could see the saw canting off vertical from the offset weight. That has to make the finish cut off vertical too, right?
You are right. Lesson learnt on that one.
@@startmaking1 hey. Sorry about bringing up about the saw position on the jig. As I read through comments (I hadn’t before leaving my comment), I see I was “beating a dead horse”, as the saying goes.
@budm9982 all good bud. You were spot on.
Why would you make that saw guide with the saw balancing in it's thinnest part?
Better design would be to make a giide that the saw sits in.
Stable and no tear out.
That is a great question. And yes, also a great solution. Thankyou.
where can i find the black laminate on your work bench?
Hi. I get mine from laminateandply.co.uk.
I can see the dust coming out of that saw, you should really be wearing a mask to protect your lungs.
Very good point. Thank you.
As usual rkid bellting video lots of people will find this useful not so shur on the track for the circular saw the uther side of the base will have moor refrens
Thank you Ant. You're spot on about the circular saw. I seem to have got into the habit of running with the thin edge as this is where the reference marks are but definitely better on the other side.
Your circular saw jig is dumb because you are balancing the entire saw on a very narrow section of it’s sole. You are making a very wobbly cut and risking binding the blade because the saw wants to topple. The reason you are doing it wrong is because you are using a LEFT handed saw RIGHT handed. For some ungodly reason nearly all cordless saws were originally manufactured for Lefties; thankfully now most offer them either way round. Either replace your saw with a RH model or learn to use the one you have properly; ie LEFT HANDED.
The proper way to build and use this jig (which is a decades old design) is to use a much thinner piece of ply/MDF/Masonite on top and have the saw run along on the wider section of the sole so it is stable. You need thin material so it passes under the motor.
You are spot on. Not really nicely put but I guess we cant win them all huh? But thank you for taking the time to tell me all that info. Did you at least like the other jigs?
I stopped the video at 4:00 and gave it a thumbs down: When using a skill type saw one should always strive to cut with the widest part of the platen supported by the work. One can clearly see your saw wobbling as you make the cuts. You are using your jig for the surface planer backwards. A surface planer has rubber drive wheels that pull the work into the cutting head and out of the machine...take a look underneath and you will see them. A surface planner is not like a table saw that requires one to push the work through the blade inserted the way you are using the jig the planner wants to pull the work off of the jig. Reversing the jig so that the stop enters the planner first will firmly hold the work against the stop as the planner pulls the work and jig through the cutting heads. Sorry but thumbs down on the video.
You really dont need to write a long comment saying why you disliked the video. I know it wont be for everyone. I also make it very clear in all my videos that I am learning along with my viewers. That said., In a way I appreciate the information. And like everyone else who has offered it up, I say thank you. The irony is that the last 3 jigs are way more useful that the first 2. But either way, thank you.
Although, despite my last comment I have had a thought. Consider this. The rollers are pulling the timber into the thicknesser. The cutting blades are spinning in the opposite direction. So the biggest risk of any kind of kick back ie the board you are planing slipping if the rollers are not gripping is back towards you. So it could be argued that the baton on the rear is better for safety and the hot glue sticks the timber to the ply board so there is no need to have a baton at the front. Would this make sense to you?
@@startmaking1 Well here comes a really long comment again (not because I did not dislike the video...just thought you might like the experience of a retired carpenter with 30 years' experience) If the rollers are slipping the planner is not adjusted right (I have never had an issue with the rollers slipping). The rollers should be kept clean. Hope this helps.
Thank you Craig. You didnt need to clarify how you felt about the video,. It came through loud and clear lol. I still cant full believe that the bar should only be at the front because that doesnt protect from the direction. of the greatest force delivery. I would far rather have the wood slip forwards than shoot backwards. But then again, I will never have more experience than you. So for that reason I will say thank you for the benefit of your experience. Have you ever thought about making videos to show people the way to do what you did.
bit of a word salad in the beginning there, let's play it again
nope, still no idea where you're going with this, I'm at 1:14 and thoroughly confused, hope it gets better
Really, was it that confusing. Sorry bud. Basically I am just making 5 jigs. The first is a circular saw guide.
@@startmaking1 Yes, I do realise what you're doing, it's just that for my way of processing, it isn't working, which I found a bit frustrating. Don't worry about it.
Secondhand advice from a self-confessed non-expert. All presented in a condescending patter. Seen it all before, we don’t need anymore TH-camrs on this bandwagon.
Wow. lol thank you. But I have to ask. Is there anything other than second hand advice in this space. Are there woodworkers who are inventing 100% brand new information just for people like you? Im genuinely curious. Also, did you watch until the end. No, of course not.
Nobody is forcing you to watch ithese videos. Go elsewhere and find something you do like. Mark has amassed almost 50,000 subscribers in a couple of years, so there are many of us who do enjoy his videos, find something unique in them, and find his presentation manner engaging and informative.
Keep at it, Mark. You're doing a great job.
Take an empty half litre bottle and cut the top off so the hole fits around the exhaust of your circular saw. Then most of saw dust will end up up in the bottle and not the air.
wow., that is a really smart idea. Thank you.
I Like you channel and your video, I love watch Woodworking videos in the evening off hours when I can't get in the shop, I started my WW path again a few years ago so I REALLY have to step in and suggest others for shooting board/ New wood worker friendly content. Rob Cosman is Great a Literal Master and A Great teacher, probably AMAZING in person. But his content ( which I have watched a LOT of ) tends to be a bit more exacting and mid to advanced, then beginner I Found. I use to have to go watch somebody else video or read up on something he did to figure it out. Its like watching richard maguire or paul seller do something and not having all the background skills and info to understand the steps.
For simple basic intro stuff scaling up especially the shooting boards - I mean he's gone back to a pair of bench hooks now
Rex Kruger - th-cam.com/video/3odXnkR2N7s/w-d-xo.html
More chisel/carving/plane stuff
James Wright - How to Make The Best Shooting Board Ever - fancy dancy shoot board but great for pure hand tool builds.
th-cam.com/video/NomRxPUY2Nc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you and I really appreciate the recommendations. I will take a look later. I also had to watch Rob Cosman as more of entertainment and aspirational TV rather than how to. Although I bet if I was in his workshop being shown that would be totally different. I bet then it is priceless.