Bought a 100k mile, '06 IS250 for $9k cash, and over the past year I've spent another $3k or so on a good SQ system with all the bells and whistles. Considering the prices of 240 or 320 amp high output alternators, this video series is EXTREMELY captivating...I might just try to save myself a few hundred🤷♂️
buddy you're a life saver. my car the only HO alternator i can find for it is $800 and living with my budget i cant afford to spend that much plus additional speakers and another amplifier (currently have 3 10"s on a 3k thats turned down cause anymore than half power and my car stops accelerating at 2k rpms< dang 150amp alternator and electric everything lol)
Wow , awesome video. This is exactly what I need to do. I was about to buy a high output alternator because I have installed high wattage amplifiers fir audio equipment in my 2013 Toyota Corolla . I have a ?? For you, will I be able to do this to my alternator? Can you make the diagram a little more clear and also can you provide the description of the wire , soldering and all the necessary things to do the job? Thank You I love how you did this .
Yes... bro...the channel name is....THEY DONT WANT MUSIC.... so i m subscribing this channel..... Its not that we dont want music..... but when yu want to learn...electronic or motor.... that music is disturbing...... So i like this... tey dont want music channel.... 👌👌👌😁😁🤣🤣🤣... i m lovin it...😘😘😘😘😘
You could also use insulating varnish to eliminate the bulkiness of any other type of insulation. It does require a little curing time, but well worth eliminating the other insulation. It's also generally more heat resistant.
I need to do this on my 90/95a alt. From a acura RSX-S (honda integra).. trying to do an electric ac compressor from a prius in example install on this project of mine .. doing a honda accord k24a swap on an older model integra haha I suck at electrical work on cars
Great video! Will definitely be trying this on my tida 140amp alternator. If I was to send your the picture of the coil can you advise exactly where to cut and join on my particular alternator? Really need to do this model as my current car audio set up is in need of a high output alternator
The top down camera view is definitely good for a big picture view but makes it kind of hard to see the fine detail of what you are actually doing to the windings..
I am up to about the four and a half minute mark and still haven't figured out exactly what you're doing. My semi educated guess is that you're reconnecting the stator from a Wye format to Delta. There are several problems with this "320 amp upgrade", one of which is the inability of a small case alternator to dissipate the amount of heat that it will create at that level of output. The second is that your typical passenger car/truck alternator is absolutely NOT rated for 100% duty cycle at maximum output to start with. Whatever the rating, it is with the alternator COLD. Once it begins to heat up, output goes down. Outside of going to Delta wound hairpin and/or a six phase square wire stator, I very seriously doubt that alternator is going to produce 320 amps. Even if it comes somewhat close to that output level, it won't be capable of sustaining it for more than a few minutes at most. I actually own a Leece Neville alternator originally used on a large commercial truck or bus that is rated at 320 amps....and that is a continuous rating. The alternator weighs close to 35 pounds and is 2 - 2.5x the physical size of what you're working on in the video. It also has 12 diodes(twice as many as the typical passenger vehicle alternator), with half of them mounted on the outside of the alternator.
High current alternators are physically bigger because they have double the number of windings, bigger rotor, and bigger rectifier. They DO NOT modify small ones to "double the output"
He is speaking of small case 320 amp alternators. Not large equipment heavy duty high output alternators. Small case alternators typically idle around 155amps and 1800 rpm + at around 320amps.
I would like to know how you figured this out ??? Also, how does the amp curve go from engine idle to redline ??? Does the idle RPM amperage cut in half since you went from star to delta configuration ???/ Thanks a bunch Sir too.
He mentioned it went from series to parallel. That would mean the voltage would be lower at lower RPM. I'm pretty sure. I think the total wattage of the alternator has not changed. It has taken all the wattage from down low, in the form of voltage, on the curve and put it on top as amperage. This would not make a good alternator if you idle in traffic alot. Unless you raised your idle rpm
Years ago i reman'd my own alternator and the solder where i soldered the rectifier to the windings melted off about 3 days after being reinstalled and in use.....what type of solder should i have used? Gm cs130 alt
Very nice. The windings account for the magnetic force and the amps with the thickness of the wire . I’d like to see an amp clamp test to see for fun it’s interesting. What’s next
Generally, when you are increasing the amperage of an alternator, you alter the stator, replace the rectifier with one that has larger diodes, and sometimes you also have to replace the rotor. It depends on the application. The regulator is usually not a concern unless it's not functioning to begin with, although I replace with a new premium regulator with all of my rebuilds.
Good evening sir I've been watching some of your videos I would like to have link radio to assembly on the alternator also rebuilding a Ford alternator F-150 if there is one you have one and any other informational videos going along with the changing of alternators into from DC to AC output thank you so much have a blessed day
Trying to wrap my head around this... I've never modified or even taken apart an alternator before, but I know that if you remove the rectifier you will have a 3ph AC output, so until I say otherwise, I'm talking about the 3ph AC machine. From watching your video it looks like the output comes from 2 series windings per phase, and you took one phase out of series and put it in parallel to double the current capacity, which would also cut the voltage output in half. If we looked at the AC output (phase-to-phase) on an oscilloscope I predict we would see two AC waves of about 19.5VAC and a 3rd wave of about 9.8VAC. Are you with me up to this point? You agree or?? Ok, now we add the rectifier back to the mix. It turns the 3ph AC into pulsating DC. The ripple factor of full wave rectified 3ph AC is usually low enough to be ignored, especially when it's in parallel with large capacitors or a battery. But that assumes 3 symmetrical phases which is almost always the case, except not here. I think if you looked at the DC output of this alternator on an oscilloscope (with it the alternator output disconnected from the battery) you would see an output that is ~13.8VDC 2/3 of the time, and ~6.9VDC for the other 1/3. BUT The regulator *does* do as you've said in other comments and as its name implies, it *regulates* the current through the slip rings to get an output of about 13.8VDC. But it doesn't (can't) force that modified winding up to the same voltage as the other two. It would need 3 separate regulators and 3 separate slip rings to do that. So does the regulator work based on the average of the DC output? If so, then your alternator would likel output higher than normal DC under light load. Or does it work on peak DC output? If so then your modified phase really is not getting used. Actually, regardless of peak or average, I think it's not getting used because it's half the voltage of what the other two windings are putting out, so all loads will be powered by those two higher voltage windings and if anything the modified "high output" winding is acting as a load rather than a supply. I think the only way that modified winding gets to supply any current is if the two other windings are put under such tremendous demand that their voltage drops(*) to the same voltage as the modified one. *Then* it can lend a hand, but I think not until then. (*) I'm sure someone will point out that their voltage doesn't drop, because the regulator will add more current to keep them outputting the proper voltage. I agree with that. It's a relative relationship. The voltage of the two normal windings won't drop; the voltage of the modified one will rise up to match them. But I could think of a simple way to put that in a sentence without derailing the point I was making. So... please, tell me where I'm going wrong.
You aren't modifying one winding from series to parallel, you're changing the configuration from WYE to Delta. The output of each winding is the same as all the others. The rotor winding is driven harder to keep the voltage up, and the alternator will need to be spun faster to compensate for the lower AC winding voltage.
@@TwistTapeTechnology ok thanks for the explanation. I had to go back and watch it again to believe you but I get it now. I must have zoned out for bit, more than once.
Amazing job bro. Thank you for taking your time to make the video. But I do have a question for you. Can you do this to any alternator. And will it work. Or is there a different in other alternators. I wanted to modified my 2012 Honda accord alternator. Thank you for your time
Many thanks for your video. I have a hair pin alternator that I want to change but I see it does not look the same as the stator you worked on. Is there anyway I can send you a picture of how it looks? Yours has horizontal wire on 50% of the stator, this one has horizontal wires all the way around the top side.
It would be better if you had drawn in paper with more elaboration on how to make the cuttings on the windings before doing it on the video. Cutting the winding is the most critical part of this project.
What's the downside of using alternators modified this way? In the first video you said that it takes higher RPM. So I suppose using smaller pulley would help? How much should the ratio change?
This seems like a surefire way to have your alternator overheat surely? And if it doesn't overheat then your battery will drain very quickly at low RPMs and idle?
Great video. Is there anyway to test the alternator before installation to make sure the amperage it higher and works as intended? I'd hate to go through the entire process and then install on my vehicle and it doesn't work
I have a Yukon with the 130 amp alternator, rpo kg8..... Can I modify my alternator the same way and double it's amp output or do I need to look for a bigger one like you use in this video? And if a bigger one is necessary, which one should I choose to modify? They have them in 10 amp increments all the way up to 200 for my year Yukon and I'm fairly certain miles ok I just need to put my Yukon "back together" again lol as it has split in half right at the "overhang of the undercarriage" lol
I have a 2006 Scion XB that has the 80amp alternator on it and I can’t find anywhere that sales either a 240 or 320 amp alternator for that vehicle. Is it possible to rewire the alternator to get more amps out of it ?
From the comments, I think you should explain that alternators are actually AC output, converted to DC by the diode pack. Now star/delta conversion may make some sense to a few. Most will correlate that switching to starting ac motors. Not a far stretch once you realize what is happening. My biggest question arises of how to cool the double output when it barely cools at the original output?
Good video but really hard to see exactly the cut wires where they attach to ..like the first cut one goes to the wire that's in red but the otherwise goes where? What is confusing is that don't know from diagram wich is the wire that you didn't cut but added a wire to can't distinguish wich color it is or if it's the red line blue or red ..could you explain it for me I sort of understand but just have a hard time following where do the wires go from the first cut and second cut and the spliced wire ...could you explain it to me again ...Thanks
If you look closely you can see I've already done the cuts needed in the pictures shown, and the coloured lines are where to add new wires. Compare with an unmodified stator if you need
Thanks. ..still hard to see but I used a big magnifying lense and was then able to see ..I have poor eyes ...just a suggestion when doing videos try and really zoom in on important parts it helps ....thank you again
thanks for amazing videos can I have your idea that what is the best solution to use all petrol engine HP for an electrical generator? attaches multi alternator through belt would work? OR design new specific alternator regards to engine torque and rpm
I would like to do this on a gm alternator but it is going on a 6.5 turbo diesel to compensate for aftermarket fans and lights. I have an overdrive pulley on the alternator as it is to compensate for draw at low RPM. Is there a formula to solve for what the output for my setup would be at a given RPM? I could definitely use 300 amps, but will I be able to make a usable amount of that within my engines usable RPM range?
DC Power have graphs for their alternators, that will be basically the same as whats shown in my video. Link may or may not work: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0019/8498/7205/products/320-HP_c10393bd-8f94-4c50-9e8e-64040e88e494_1024x1024.png?v=1549859670 The graph shows alternator RPM, you can work out your engine to alternator pulley ratio, and get a reasonable idea of what output you'll have at idle, and what RPM would be needed for full output.
Excuse me for asking: if you change it from Y to delta the output voltage will be a half , right? so what is the point to change it???you will have 7.2 Volts after rectifier ...so it will not charge the battery any more.
Output voltage on an alternator is fix and obtained via a regulated circuit ( example 12V ). So in delta config the rotor will be higher exited to obtain again 12 V by means of only one coil.
I am not 100% sure of this, but I do believe you get the multiple of sqrt(3) (1.73) in gained amperage, not the double. Are you not worried that the voltage regulator will pump the field windings so high that your alternator will stop working from heat build up?
Yea I'm not sold on this at all. Especially the soft parts put in solder and heat shrink seems would melt down. The high temp enamel shorts and grounds by itself usually killing the voltage regulator "most common reason for alternator failure" I appreciate his effort but in realistic conditions this thing will melt down. All the winding would need redone and hight temp enamel coated.
Great video. I always wanted to know how it was done. Now quick question I have a 2010 Mazda 6. Will I be able to do the same keeping the same rectifier? Thank you so much.
You shouldn't jump start a car with a high output alternator, as you may boil the battery as the alternator dumps a heap of current into the flat battery, but for normal use, the battery won't be taking any more current than with a normal output alt.
Hey can u do a 2001 honda accord 2.3l sedan alternator I try'd and fail there telling me I need to replace the stator and get more winding in order to even come close to that amperage.....plz plz thxs
Sorry this is so late being your video is 2.5 years old. But does it hurt anything to just use one portion of the stator instead of all three? I have a 5 rib pulley and it'll slip with to much load. I have a 190A alternator and just need about 250A.
Very good video, very clear instructions here. I would like to see results from load testing befpre and after modification. Where can one score that upgraded rectifier bridge?
I'm in Australia, so to find an upgraded rectifier, I'd probably just search eBay for "denso rectifier" and look for one that looks the same, then read the description to make sure it has twelve 50amp diodes... It's really a terrible idea, but I'm sure people overseas should be able to find parts more easily... The small case rectifiers are flat plates made of aluminium or copper. Whereas the large case appear to generally be cast alloy, which won't fit in the small case alts..
@@TwistTapeTechnology why do you say it's a terrible idea? I've seen you reference getting an upgraded rectifier before without caution.. Are you saying there should be caution in doing this? I'm excited to try this out. I'm just very confused on what needs to happen after the build is done. Sounds like a new pulley is needed, I'm just curious as to what size. If you don't want to do the math for me, I'm sure it'd be helpful to many to provide the math that needs to be done to figure out what new size is needed. As well as information on whether you need an upgraded stator as well. Thanks TDWM. You're a real G
good day i didnt get the pictures of the connections to be made and could you do a video on the "Nissan Tida" Alternator i think in ur country its the Versa it has a 240amp alternator i would like to upgrade mine thanks bro. loved the vid very informative
i didnt see any pictures at all and i am trying to modify a 140 amps alternator that looks just like the one in the video u, did can this be modified the same way or is there a different method to do?? @@TwistTapeTechnology
@@TwistTapeTechnology the alternator i am working on has 2 wire winding on the stata an outer and inner winding could you do a video or pictures of the wire cuts and wire joinings i hahe pictures of in below thanks i cant load pics of it so here is the model number '''''' Nissan 23100 ED00B '''' LR1140-8015. 12V 140 amps and the rota is 1.8 ohms
@@TwistTapeTechnology also in respect to the center where the 3 wire meet "ground" which wire goes to where on the other end of the windings eg " lll ". are the wire meeting at the ground or center does each represent the same on the other end??? eg 123 or is it 321 i hope u understand
Can you do a video on Honda alternator's? They are very popular cars and come with a wimpy 70 amp alternator which is on the ragged edge stock of not charging
@@TwistTapeTechnology No, the stator voltage will vary with RPM, but it is being held constant by the regulator. The answer is, you don't have the graph. Thanks anyway. :)
Yes I’d love to see a reassembly video, please. And thank you much.
Bought a 100k mile, '06 IS250 for $9k cash, and over the past year I've spent another $3k or so on a good SQ system with all the bells and whistles. Considering the prices of 240 or 320 amp high output alternators, this video series is EXTREMELY captivating...I might just try to save myself a few hundred🤷♂️
buddy you're a life saver. my car the only HO alternator i can find for it is $800 and living with my budget i cant afford to spend that much plus additional speakers and another amplifier (currently have 3 10"s on a 3k thats turned down cause anymore than half power and my car stops accelerating at 2k rpms< dang 150amp alternator and electric everything lol)
This video series is awesome. Thanks so much for sharing makes me want to pick up a couple cheap alts and hop em up. 👍
Wow , awesome video. This is exactly what I need to do. I was about to buy a high output alternator because I have installed high wattage amplifiers fir audio equipment in my 2013 Toyota Corolla . I have a ?? For you, will I be able to do this to my alternator?
Can you make the diagram a little more clear and also can you provide the description of the wire , soldering and all the necessary things to do the job? Thank You I love how you did this .
Guess not lol
Absolutely a great vid.. perfect for the diy'er needing more current. Thank you for sharing
Yes... bro...the channel name is....THEY DONT WANT MUSIC.... so i m subscribing this channel.....
Its not that we dont want music..... but when yu want to learn...electronic or motor.... that music is disturbing......
So i like this... tey dont want music channel.... 👌👌👌😁😁🤣🤣🤣... i m lovin it...😘😘😘😘😘
You could also use insulating varnish to eliminate the bulkiness of any other type of insulation. It does require a little curing time, but well worth eliminating the other insulation. It's also generally more heat resistant.
Insulating varnish can work, however is is far from aesthetically pleasing. I use tinted ignition sealer on my stators.
@@tedisabum I get that. I guess I've always liked the look of the coils myself, but that would definitely work very well.
So you were saying it will put out lower voltage at low rmps how high do the rmps have to be to put out the correct voltage and the full 300 amps?
That's what I was wondering and at idle will it do anything or what rpm do you need
I need to do this on my 90/95a alt. From a acura RSX-S (honda integra).. trying to do an electric ac compressor from a prius in example install on this project of mine .. doing a honda accord k24a swap on an older model integra haha
I suck at electrical work on cars
Great video! Will definitely be trying this on my tida 140amp alternator. If I was to send your the picture of the coil can you advise exactly where to cut and join on my particular alternator? Really need to do this model as my current car audio set up is in need of a high output alternator
I also tried is but am not sure if I did it correctly
The top down camera view is definitely good for a big picture view but makes it kind of hard to see the fine detail of what you are actually doing to the windings..
I am up to about the four and a half minute mark and still haven't figured out exactly what you're doing. My semi educated guess is that you're reconnecting the stator from a Wye format to Delta.
There are several problems with this "320 amp upgrade", one of which is the inability of a small case alternator to dissipate the amount of heat that it will create at that level of output. The second is that your typical passenger car/truck alternator is absolutely NOT rated for 100% duty cycle at maximum output to start with. Whatever the rating, it is with the alternator COLD. Once it begins to heat up, output goes down.
Outside of going to Delta wound hairpin and/or a six phase square wire stator, I very seriously doubt that alternator is going to produce 320 amps. Even if it comes somewhat close to that output level, it won't be capable of sustaining it for more than a few minutes at most. I actually own a Leece Neville alternator originally used on a large commercial truck or bus that is rated at 320 amps....and that is a continuous rating. The alternator weighs close to 35 pounds and is 2 - 2.5x the physical size of what you're working on in the video. It also has 12 diodes(twice as many as the typical passenger vehicle alternator), with half of them mounted on the outside of the alternator.
Part 1 explains the mods.
These mods are exactly what every small case, 320 amp hairpin alternator sold, has done to it.
High current alternators are physically bigger because they have double the number of windings, bigger rotor, and bigger rectifier. They DO NOT modify small ones to "double the output"
He is speaking of small case 320 amp alternators. Not large equipment heavy duty high output alternators. Small case alternators typically idle around 155amps and 1800 rpm + at around 320amps.
I would like to know how you figured this out ??? Also, how does the amp curve go from engine idle to redline ??? Does the idle RPM amperage cut in half since you went from star to delta configuration ???/ Thanks a bunch Sir too.
He mentioned it went from series to parallel.
That would mean the voltage would be lower at lower RPM. I'm pretty sure.
I think the total wattage of the alternator has not changed.
It has taken all the wattage from down low, in the form of voltage, on the curve and put it on top as amperage.
This would not make a good alternator if you idle in traffic alot.
Unless you raised your idle rpm
@@Godfather_of_the_Oath Got that fella. Thanks
Years ago i reman'd my own alternator and the solder where i soldered the rectifier to the windings melted off about 3 days after being reinstalled and in use.....what type of solder should i have used? Gm cs130 alt
Thx u for the video just wish u can make another one with a closer view plz
Very nice. The windings account for the magnetic force and the amps with the thickness of the wire . I’d like to see an amp clamp test to see for fun it’s interesting. What’s next
Clamp test is on my channel already ;)
Can you do a closer up video? Thanks
Hi. Great video. What about voltage regulator? Do you leave it oem? Can it handle the new field current to push 300A?
Generally, when you are increasing the amperage of an alternator, you alter the stator, replace the rectifier with one that has larger diodes, and sometimes you also have to replace the rotor. It depends on the application. The regulator is usually not a concern unless it's not functioning to begin with, although I replace with a new premium regulator with all of my rebuilds.
What do you think about an external rectifier, the black epoxied bricks with Philip screws on top and flat heat sink bottoms?
Yup that was my truck on fire under the hood at the Bass competition!!
0:55 out of this world background music!!!!!
15:37 Gods intro music too!!!!
It's from Amiga Commandore game "Agony". Loading game theme, on 07minute: th-cam.com/video/WYxIJxqrv6U/w-d-xo.html
Just awesome work man. God blesses you.
Good evening sir I've been watching some of your videos I would like to have link radio to assembly on the alternator also rebuilding a Ford alternator F-150 if there is one you have one and any other informational videos going along with the changing of alternators into from DC to AC output thank you so much have a blessed day
Will it not affect anything with the new wire being 30% smaller or so than what is already on there?
Trying to wrap my head around this... I've never modified or even taken apart an alternator before, but I know that if you remove the rectifier you will have a 3ph AC output, so until I say otherwise, I'm talking about the 3ph AC machine. From watching your video it looks like the output comes from 2 series windings per phase, and you took one phase out of series and put it in parallel to double the current capacity, which would also cut the voltage output in half. If we looked at the AC output (phase-to-phase) on an oscilloscope I predict we would see two AC waves of about 19.5VAC and a 3rd wave of about 9.8VAC. Are you with me up to this point? You agree or??
Ok, now we add the rectifier back to the mix. It turns the 3ph AC into pulsating DC. The ripple factor of full wave rectified 3ph AC is usually low enough to be ignored, especially when it's in parallel with large capacitors or a battery. But that assumes 3 symmetrical phases which is almost always the case, except not here. I think if you looked at the DC output of this alternator on an oscilloscope (with it the alternator output disconnected from the battery) you would see an output that is ~13.8VDC 2/3 of the time, and ~6.9VDC for the other 1/3.
BUT The regulator *does* do as you've said in other comments and as its name implies, it *regulates* the current through the slip rings to get an output of about 13.8VDC. But it doesn't (can't) force that modified winding up to the same voltage as the other two. It would need 3 separate regulators and 3 separate slip rings to do that. So does the regulator work based on the average of the DC output? If so, then your alternator would likel output higher than normal DC under light load. Or does it work on peak DC output? If so then your modified phase really is not getting used.
Actually, regardless of peak or average, I think it's not getting used because it's half the voltage of what the other two windings are putting out, so all loads will be powered by those two higher voltage windings and if anything the modified "high output" winding is acting as a load rather than a supply. I think the only way that modified winding gets to supply any current is if the two other windings are put under such tremendous demand that their voltage drops(*) to the same voltage as the modified one. *Then* it can lend a hand, but I think not until then.
(*) I'm sure someone will point out that their voltage doesn't drop, because the regulator will add more current to keep them outputting the proper voltage. I agree with that. It's a relative relationship. The voltage of the two normal windings won't drop; the voltage of the modified one will rise up to match them. But I could think of a simple way to put that in a sentence without derailing the point I was making.
So... please, tell me where I'm going wrong.
You aren't modifying one winding from series to parallel, you're changing the configuration from WYE to Delta. The output of each winding is the same as all the others. The rotor winding is driven harder to keep the voltage up, and the alternator will need to be spun faster to compensate for the lower AC winding voltage.
@@TwistTapeTechnology ok thanks for the explanation. I had to go back and watch it again to believe you but I get it now. I must have zoned out for bit, more than once.
I belive i have a 220 and i need a 320 do i only cut 1 side ? 2014 dodge ram 2500 6.7 turbo diesel
where to you get a rectifier for a 320 amp alternator and the smaller pulley?
Amazing job bro. Thank you for taking your time to make the video. But I do have a question for you. Can you do this to any alternator. And will it work. Or is there a different in other alternators. I wanted to modified my 2012 Honda accord alternator. Thank you for your time
Hi. Great video. I would like to do this with a motorcycle stator. They look very different so I don’t know if the same rules o process applies.
Many thanks for your video. I have a hair pin alternator that I want to change but I see it does not look the same as the stator you worked on. Is there anyway I can send you a picture of how it looks?
Yours has horizontal wire on 50% of the stator, this one has horizontal wires all the way around the top side.
Can the diodes handle twice the current?
It would be better if you had drawn in paper with more elaboration on how to make the cuttings on the windings before doing it on the video. Cutting the winding is the most critical part of this project.
Agreed, no one can copy this, he mumbles to himself instead of accurately teaching. Folk will be cutting random windings and causing fires.
What's the downside of using alternators modified this way? In the first video you said that it takes higher RPM. So I suppose using smaller pulley would help? How much should the ratio change?
curious minds want to know
This seems like a surefire way to have your alternator overheat surely? And if it doesn't overheat then your battery will drain very quickly at low RPMs and idle?
ask Mechman, DC Power, Iraggi and every other alternator assembler that does these exact same mods...
Thanks for sharing
Great video. Is there anyway to test the alternator before installation to make sure the amperage it higher and works as intended? I'd hate to go through the entire process and then install on my vehicle and it doesn't work
Amp clamp
where can I buy hairpin stators?
At 16:23 I did not get the type of diode referred as parts of "decent after market parts" ?
Thanks for the video.
I have a Yukon with the 130 amp alternator, rpo kg8..... Can I modify my alternator the same way and double it's amp output or do I need to look for a bigger one like you use in this video? And if a bigger one is necessary, which one should I choose to modify? They have them in 10 amp increments all the way up to 200 for my year Yukon and I'm fairly certain miles ok I just need to put my Yukon "back together" again lol as it has split in half right at the "overhang of the undercarriage" lol
So is there any reason why you couldn’t do this to a regular 60 amp car alternator???
How about the original rectifier rated from factory? I suppose it needs a change as well?
I have a 2006 Scion XB that has the 80amp alternator on it and I can’t find anywhere that sales either a 240 or 320 amp alternator for that vehicle. Is it possible to rewire the alternator to get more amps out of it ?
How much would you charge to upgrade my alternator ? 2007 single cab chevrolet colorado 2.9l
Absolutely love the tracker music 👍
It's from an old DOS based game called "Out of This World" 😉 only older early 90's DOS era nerdz know this, bruh...Freakin' noobz
Pls diagram alternator
This video was awesome. Thanks! Is it possible to do something similar to a motorcycle stator?
From the comments, I think you should explain that alternators are actually AC output, converted to DC by the diode pack. Now star/delta conversion may make some sense to a few. Most will correlate that switching to starting ac motors. Not a far stretch once you realize what is happening.
My biggest question arises of how to cool the double output when it barely cools at the original output?
These mods are the same as every small case high output alternator. I haven't known of them having many issues with heat.
巻線の直径はいくつなんですか。320Aも流して大丈夫？
Hi would you be able to use your standard battery after this alteration?
Great video and thanks for sharing. Question: What is the approximate voltage output at idle after modification?
With a smaller pulley, they should do the standard voltage that the regulator always did, which for this alternator, was 14.2volts.
Sweet! did you keep the stock voltage regulator as well as well as the stock diodes that were already in place ?
Great trick , I really like the quality you put ito yur work!
But even more importantly
Please 🙏 tell us!!!!!????
What is the amperage at idle??
Hi What wire exactly did you use?
Good video but really hard to see exactly the cut wires where they attach to ..like the first cut one goes to the wire that's in red but the otherwise goes where? What is confusing is that don't know from diagram wich is the wire that you didn't cut but added a wire to can't distinguish wich color it is or if it's the red line blue or red ..could you explain it for me I sort of understand but just have a hard time following where do the wires go from the first cut and second cut and the spliced wire ...could you explain it to me again ...Thanks
If you look closely you can see I've already done the cuts needed in the pictures shown, and the coloured lines are where to add new wires.
Compare with an unmodified stator if you need
Thanks. ..still hard to see but I used a big magnifying lense and was then able to see ..I have poor eyes ...just a suggestion when doing videos try and really zoom in on important parts it helps ....thank you again
Hey have a 2012 gti, using the same parts to put it back together is good? Does this change the life of the alternator?
Very nice jop but what is the orignal wiring
I think it is two delta winding specially in dodge alternator
thanks for amazing videos
can I have your idea that what is the best solution to use all petrol engine HP for an electrical generator?
attaches multi alternator through belt would work?
OR
design new specific alternator regards to engine torque and rpm
Try Kapton tape for insulating the soldered joins.
What happens if you do damage the enamel then what do you do?
Very nice and interesting video,thanks
so what you mean just changing the star to delta will double the current ouput?
I would like a video on the assembly of an alternator please
I would like to do this on a gm alternator but it is going on a 6.5 turbo diesel to compensate for aftermarket fans and lights. I have an overdrive pulley on the alternator as it is to compensate for draw at low RPM. Is there a formula to solve for what the output for my setup would be at a given RPM? I could definitely use 300 amps, but will I be able to make a usable amount of that within my engines usable RPM range?
DC Power have graphs for their alternators, that will be basically the same as whats shown in my video. Link may or may not work:
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0019/8498/7205/products/320-HP_c10393bd-8f94-4c50-9e8e-64040e88e494_1024x1024.png?v=1549859670
The graph shows alternator RPM, you can work out your engine to alternator pulley ratio, and get a reasonable idea of what output you'll have at idle, and what RPM would be needed for full output.
Would it be the same basic process for a ford 6g stator?
Do you gave any video testing it?
Excuse me for asking: if you change it from Y to delta the output voltage will be a half , right? so what is the point to change it???you will have 7.2 Volts after rectifier ...so it will not charge the battery any more.
Output voltage on an alternator is fix and obtained via a regulated circuit ( example 12V ). So in delta config the rotor will be higher exited to obtain again 12 V by means of only one coil.
Which means the rotor will burn out because its always running at max current
How do I make a hairpin stator? Do you have a video?
I am not 100% sure of this, but I do believe you get the multiple of sqrt(3) (1.73) in gained amperage, not the double.
Are you not worried that the voltage regulator will pump the field windings so high that your alternator will stop working from heat build up?
Yea I'm not sold on this at all. Especially the soft parts put in solder and heat shrink seems would melt down. The high temp enamel shorts and grounds by itself usually killing the voltage regulator "most common reason for alternator failure" I appreciate his effort but in realistic conditions this thing will melt down. All the winding would need redone and hight temp enamel coated.
Cool, should link pictures, I'd like to try
asif2friend@gmail.com
Great video. I always wanted to know how it was done. Now quick question I have a 2010 Mazda 6. Will I be able to do the same keeping the same rectifier? Thank you so much.
If you can figure out what the stock diodes are, and they're 50amps, sure!
Thank you. I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.
great video
I want know the hi amp not damage normal battery 🔋???
You shouldn't jump start a car with a high output alternator, as you may boil the battery as the alternator dumps a heap of current into the flat battery, but for normal use, the battery won't be taking any more current than with a normal output alt.
@@TwistTapeTechnology if you keep it at idle it will be less current then stock, could be spike at first on a cold start tho I guess
This mod will greatly reduce the low rpm output by less than half the stock unit.
Put a smaller pulley?
@@echandi101 Smaller pulley means more wear on the belt and bearings. Bad Idea.
@@jimmccune568 so whats teh correct way to do it? bigger windings?
Well down good job man
Hey can u do a 2001 honda accord 2.3l sedan alternator I try'd and fail there telling me I need to replace the stator and get more winding in order to even come close to that amperage.....plz plz thxs
What would happen if I tried doing this with a 90 amp alternator?
Sorry this is so late being your video is 2.5 years old. But does it hurt anything to just use one portion of the stator instead of all three? I have a 5 rib pulley and it'll slip with to much load. I have a 190A alternator and just need about 250A.
Very good video, very clear instructions here. I would like to see results from load testing befpre and after modification. Where can one score that upgraded rectifier bridge?
I'm in Australia, so to find an upgraded rectifier, I'd probably just search eBay for "denso rectifier" and look for one that looks the same, then read the description to make sure it has twelve 50amp diodes... It's really a terrible idea, but I'm sure people overseas should be able to find parts more easily... The small case rectifiers are flat plates made of aluminium or copper. Whereas the large case appear to generally be cast alloy, which won't fit in the small case alts..
@@TwistTapeTechnology why do you say it's a terrible idea? I've seen you reference getting an upgraded rectifier before without caution.. Are you saying there should be caution in doing this?
I'm excited to try this out. I'm just very confused on what needs to happen after the build is done. Sounds like a new pulley is needed, I'm just curious as to what size. If you don't want to do the math for me, I'm sure it'd be helpful to many to provide the math that needs to be done to figure out what new size is needed. As well as information on whether you need an upgraded stator as well. Thanks TDWM. You're a real G
Hey by chance can you send me a link or something on the wire diagram videos awesome but can't hardly see
output your phone to a tv, its easy to see when your screen is not 4 inches across
So correct me if I am wrong you are basically converting it to all being parallel?
No, he’s converting it from parallel to series.
what size is that sleeving ?
What is the model of the alternator
nice clean job
I have a 200 amp alternator and I’m trying to make it 350
Is this possible
The 200 amp may already have partial mod as he explained in the end of part 2
good day i didnt get the pictures of the connections to be made and could you do a video on the "Nissan Tida" Alternator i think in ur country its the Versa it has a 240amp alternator i would like to upgrade mine thanks bro. loved the vid very informative
Are you saying you don't understand the pictures?
i didnt see any pictures at all and i am trying to modify a 140 amps alternator that looks just like the one in the video u, did can this be modified the same way or is there a different method to do??
@@TwistTapeTechnology
@@loneallemaney9910 If you can't see the pictures, I'd suggest this isn't the project for you.
@@TwistTapeTechnology the alternator i am working on has 2 wire winding on the stata an outer and inner winding could you do a video or pictures of the wire cuts and wire joinings i hahe pictures of in below thanks i cant load pics of it so here is the model number '''''' Nissan 23100 ED00B '''' LR1140-8015. 12V 140 amps and the rota is 1.8 ohms
@@TwistTapeTechnology also in respect to the center where the 3 wire meet "ground" which wire goes to where on the other end of the windings eg " lll ". are the wire meeting at the ground or center does each represent the same on the other end??? eg 123 or is it 321 i hope u understand
great job!!!!!!!!!
Can you do a video on Honda alternator's? They are very popular cars and come with a wimpy 70 amp alternator which is on the ragged edge stock of not charging
no
@@TwistTapeTechnology lol how about toyota corolla
its pretty much the same thorught all models of cars, shouldnt be had to figure out at all
Do you have a voltage vs rpm profile before and after the conversion?
Do you mean current?
@@TwistTapeTechnology No. Looking for voltage vs rpm curve.
The output voltage is whatever the regulators set point is. It doesn't change with rpm.
@@TwistTapeTechnology No, the stator voltage will vary with RPM, but it is being held constant by the regulator. The answer is, you don't have the graph. Thanks anyway. :)
R
P ---------------
M
VOLTAGE
Are you sure current will be 2 times higher ? Not 1.41 times higher ? Can you make measure ?
There's a test video on my channel :)
Heya?, I do believe he is trying to say "here".
Great video thank you . I subscribed just because of this video
Thanks 😊 🙏
Can I make one out of a ford alternate?
Hi...good video...do i need to add amperage on fuse to use this mod?now im using 80A fuse for the alternator...tq
Its really difficult to see where you cut the windings and make the connections.
What if I just wanted improved rating of 20A or something, lets say from 110A to 130A, or from 90 to 120A
lol
@@hxd9321 yeah
Rewinding for 20Amps more is really funny
Just not sure what about it is funny
@@metabeta6993 What’s funny is your inability. Did you even watch the video, or are you just a bad listener?
Can you do a generator the same way
Can u do that for a b13 sentra alternator??
high out put or high amps...?
how to get just 12 volts dc 60 amps I don't need very high current out of it ???? thank you bro for sharing >>>
So what if you got the 100 to 125 amp alternate can it still be done
Nope
Why