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Hey I have been watching your videos a lot recently and me and my friend are trying to fix up some Polaris’s after watching your videos. I bought a 96 xlt touring with the 133 long track extra 12 and I can’t get one of the front bolts out I have tried everything I can think of I really don’t want to cut the bolt. It started to come out and I had tried to tighten it back up to get the other side out and I did get the other bolt out but now I can’t get the first one to move at all. I’m kinda at a loss of what to do if I tighten the one that’s free no matter how tight I get it when I try and remove the stuck bolt it just loosens the other side.
Great video Nutter! Skid rebuilds are no joke! I got a small taste of it a few seasons back when I had to rebuild shocks on my IQ 600 skids (2 of them) in Dec on the garage floor (thanks shock shop and Willie in Becker, Mn)!
Outstanding episode. Nothing is more relaxing than to watch the restoration of a Polaris. Yes your end was a different story obvious 😂. Can't wait to see the skis lift up on the first throttle up.
Ahh yes. The infamous Xtra 12 . Its truely a love / hate skid ! I have two '98 Classics with it ( plus a third donor sled ) . Hates...... real heavy, super complicated, shitload of things to grease, allways worn / froze up, and neglected . Real involved to get set up right, holds a hunnert pounds of snow when caked up and real hard to clean out. Loves ............... rides superb when set up right ( allmost as good as M-10 ) . I set mine up extra soft with a good amount of static sag. I keep the spring preload light so they bottom out some on the big bumps. When set up that way, the track can easily drop into potholes and dips and it actually makes for a smoother ride. I also set the hydraulic damping on the stock shocks that have the adjustment screw fairly light. Its a complicated skid, and alot of work and adjustment to get it right, but honestly the only thing better from that era was M'-10 .
@@nuttersspeedshop May as well. I tried settin em up stiffer and it didnt help anything. It only made the ride more harsh. It looks to soft if you are not used to how the X 12 is but, it sure rides nice that way.
I'm kind of amazed the air hammer worked that well I have not tried that but I'm pretty sure I need to get a good air hammer. I've drilled them out plenty of times....or melt.
Rebuilding the slid , I did that 2 years ago , 14 new bogie wheels , anti stab wheel kit for the front of the rails , rebuilt shocks , new slides , strip and paint everything ,,and few new rods , and bolts , close to $1500 bucks , Skäl , and that doesn’t count the Wahl Brothers drives
Getting aluminum shafts out of steel tubes can be a real struggle. I have tried drilling them out...messed up the tube. I have tried melting them out...takes a lot of gas, makes a mess, inside of the tube is nasty. Air hammer works great, if it works at all. I have had the best success with a chunk of threaded rod and a piece of thick wall steel tube to pull the shaft out of the tube. In extreme situations you may have to heat the tube, and if that doesn't work...heating and shock cooling it to break the bond. If you have the puller wound up tight when you quench the part, often you can hear the pop when it lets go. If the corrosion is really bad, or the tube has a slight bend, you really have your work cut out for you. On the ones that refuse to come out even after they have broke loose, I will soak them in penetrant, put the puller on one end, and air hammer a bolt screwed into the opposite. So far I have always won. I assume I am making new shafts in most cases, so the shafts are sacrificial. The best tool I have found to polish the insides of the tubes after the nasty rust is out, is a 3/4" dingleberry hone.
Shirts and stickers are here: nutters-speed-shop.myspreadshop.com/
Want to support the channel? Go To Nutter's Speed Shop Patreon Page: www.patreon.com/nuttersspeedshop
Hey I have been watching your videos a lot recently and me and my friend are trying to fix up some Polaris’s after watching your videos. I bought a 96 xlt touring with the 133 long track extra 12 and I can’t get one of the front bolts out I have tried everything I can think of I really don’t want to cut the bolt. It started to come out and I had tried to tighten it back up to get the other side out and I did get the other bolt out but now I can’t get the first one to move at all. I’m kinda at a loss of what to do if I tighten the one that’s free no matter how tight I get it when I try and remove the stuck bolt it just loosens the other side.
@@cgstever91 There's no secret. Keep at it. Eventually you will get it.
Great video Nutter! Skid rebuilds are no joke! I got a small taste of it a few seasons back when I had to rebuild shocks on my IQ 600 skids (2 of them) in Dec on the garage floor (thanks shock shop and Willie in Becker, Mn)!
Right on!
looking real good .all is great when you have a reliable sled
Hopefully it's reliable when we are done. :)
I could watch these videos constantly
Outstanding episode. Nothing is more relaxing than to watch the restoration of a Polaris. Yes your end was a different story obvious 😂. Can't wait to see the skis lift up on the first throttle up.
It will be a while yet. But it's almost ready!
Nice video brother. I’ll be working on a xtra 12 this weekend. Have a cold one
Thanks! You too!
Ahh yes. The infamous Xtra 12 . Its truely a love / hate skid ! I have two '98 Classics with it ( plus a third donor sled ) .
Hates...... real heavy, super complicated, shitload of things to grease, allways worn / froze up, and neglected . Real involved to get set up right, holds a hunnert pounds of snow when caked up and real hard to clean out.
Loves ............... rides superb when set up right ( allmost as good as M-10 ) .
I set mine up extra soft with a good amount of static sag. I keep the spring preload light so they bottom out some on the big bumps. When set up that way, the track can easily drop into potholes and dips and it actually makes for a smoother ride.
I also set the hydraulic damping on the stock shocks that have the adjustment screw fairly light.
Its a complicated skid, and alot of work and adjustment to get it right, but honestly the only thing better from that era was M'-10 .
I set them up extra soft too.
@@nuttersspeedshop May as well. I tried settin em up stiffer and it didnt help anything. It only made the ride more harsh. It looks to soft if you are not used to how the X 12 is but, it sure rides nice that way.
Good times.. good times.
Been through many rusted Brut suspensions just to get usable parts. One of these days Ill get it right. 🎉
I feel your pain!
Air hammer is awesome in most circumstances.That was a pile of work!
You bet it was!
I’ve soaked some of them rusted skid parts in the parts cleaner solvent for a month or two and they come out really nice.
Cool.
Kroil is good stuff !
Sure is. Expensive as hell, but definitely worth it. My shop will never be without it again.
May the Beer be with you ! Use the Force ! ( twist offs ) Cans ? See Instructions , Lift Tab , Skäl
It's the best, but I think it needs to set overnight to really work.
I'm kind of amazed the air hammer worked that well I have not tried that but I'm pretty sure I need to get a good air hammer. I've drilled them out plenty of times....or melt.
Check out the Astro Pneumatic "Thor" air hammer.
Rebuilding the slid , I did that 2 years ago , 14 new bogie wheels , anti stab wheel kit for the front of the rails , rebuilt shocks , new slides , strip and paint everything ,,and few new rods , and bolts , close to $1500 bucks , Skäl , and that doesn’t count the Wahl Brothers drives
Holy cow! How do you spend $1500 on a skid? NOS everything and then powder coat it all?
Getting aluminum shafts out of steel tubes can be a real struggle. I have tried drilling them out...messed up the tube. I have tried melting them out...takes a lot of gas, makes a mess, inside of the tube is nasty. Air hammer works great, if it works at all. I have had the best success with a chunk of threaded rod and a piece of thick wall steel tube to pull the shaft out of the tube. In extreme situations you may have to heat the tube, and if that doesn't work...heating and shock cooling it to break the bond. If you have the puller wound up tight when you quench the part, often you can hear the pop when it lets go. If the corrosion is really bad, or the tube has a slight bend, you really have your work cut out for you. On the ones that refuse to come out even after they have broke loose, I will soak them in penetrant, put the puller on one end, and air hammer a bolt screwed into the opposite. So far I have always won. I assume I am making new shafts in most cases, so the shafts are sacrificial. The best tool I have found to polish the insides of the tubes after the nasty rust is out, is a 3/4" dingleberry hone.
She's looking good!! Lots of work. Have you ever had to stick this much time into another sled?
Brads Ultra XCR was pretty close.
About the air hammer- A wise man once told me "Never use ass, when you can use gas"
Awesome saying!
Would a skid out of a prox be a better suspension and would it bolt in. I have put newer sc111 skids in a few of my sleds. great upgrade.
You can make anything fit anything if you are willing to drill holes and spend money!
Rod with Sand Paper on the end , old Gynecologist trick ?
LOL!
It’s not the Beer ! I always think like this ! It’s a Gift
I like your bench organizing , can’t find something , have another Beer ! It’s exactly where is supposed to be !
Can we expect 2 videos a week for the winter months lol?
I'm not promising anything.