11 paragraph advice: Measure the required volume carefully. Always buy the biggest tanks for the majority of the job. The 600s are a much better deal than 200s. *If it's cold outside,* then it is the *wrong season* to be applying this to insulate your cold walls! Cold is the enemy. Always work within the 3 required temperature limits. Run a fan to keep all air circulating and to avoid excessively warm or cold walls. The closer the chemicals are to 90°F, the sooner the foam expands and the _sooner you can notice problems._ Get both chemical temperatures to 90°F before use. The liquid center will usually be colder than the metal tank. Slosh the liquids vigorously inside the tanks *each time* before measuring the tank side temperature. Don't get impatient while they warm up. Don't "over-do" it. I warm the chemical tanks in a small room with its own heater thermostat set to 90. I use a cheap digital IR (remote) thermal sensor since chemical bottles, wall surfaces, and air - ALL need to be kept within strict limits. I measure a bit of dry paper to get air temperature. If you cannot easily work the entire room exterior walls without stopping for more than 15 seconds at any moment, then you should consider buying more disposable nozzles before proceeding. You get 3 in the smaller kits, more in the larger kits. _If the two chemicals do not mix 50/50, then they won't react fully, nor expand completely!_ *A bad mixture in your walls is bad for your health!* There is a reason we wear a chemical respirator while applying this stuff ! As they show, always start a batch on scrap cardboard. If you even *suspect* a problem, then immediately switch to scrap cardboard for a set of 5-second-on 15-second-off test runs until you can measure the total expansion. If the stream hitting cardboard - changes in speed or color - then STOP! The nozzle might be clogging up, or one _Can_ may be empty before the _Other,_ either way the mixture may stop being 50/50! If your corrugated cardboard test failed, then stop, slosh the tanks to estimate remaining liquids, and check *all* temperatures again. If the foam works fine on cardboard, but fails to expand as rapidly on a wall, then STOP! The wall is probably too cold, and you should have been measuring them and been proactive about this. I make sure that wall cavities will stay within the temperature limit while the foam fully cures on the first coat. The colder the walls start out, the closer to the upper limit they should be preheated to. Remove nozzle, clean and grease as needed and replace with a new nozzle after any pause longer than 30 seconds, _or if you suspect a clogged nozzle may be slowing the stream._
David Ogawa do you know if you can spray over foam board? This would help to get the surface temperature that I’m spraying to up and save on cost also. Thoughts?
@@wesbullock5191 My concerns are that only closed-cell foam is used, both foam boards and spray. Also, if the sheathing was not perfectly sealed during construction, then sealant should be applied from the interior to remedy that. I have seen a video of one man combining foam board and spray, but he did not attempt to apply it below recommended temperature. You should also avoid that compromise. He was also careful to provide a large enough gap on each side of the foam boards to apply spray all the way down to the sheathing. This blocks convection and therefore condensation. I also strongly recommend that you apply adhesive in many horizontal stripes full-width across the foam boards to limit vertical stratification of both air and moisture between the sheathing and foam boards.
I've used a different brand . easy to set up and spray. One must Cary a small crescent wrench as the lil yellow handles to turn on both tanks are a bit stiff. Other than that its fun to use . happy spraying.
Fantastic video, I was trying to decide on this product or another brand and the video was super helpful that it was enough to swing my decision. Thanks for the support. I will buy the product, all 1000 bucks worth too!
I'm getting the run around trying to get a average cost per square foot by contractor for a estimate. I believe I'll use o e of these kits instead. Thx.
Tubes cane off the cans. Foam started to come ort and hardened in the hose and on the can. Changed the nozzle but the hose is full of hardened foam. Can't get the unit to work now.
This stuff can lift concrete driveways, so no. If you apply too much, the wall bursts. The mineral-based foams do not expand after application, but only aircrete is DIY. (The magnesium oxide foam is a proprietary system. You have to pay to get training, lease equipment & franchise.)
It's safe if you can do *everything* correctly. The film also implies there are ways a professional or amatuer could screw up - and now you could spot that.
If you are going to spray in foam to a flat roof from the inside, will that cause issues when a roofer needs to replace the roof? My home needs to be gutted (Asbestos) and it will have an exposed ceiling.. Should I layer the plywood under the roof with anything to prevent the spray foam from adhering to the plywood if/when it needs to be replaced so the roofers do not pull out the foam ?
When the underside of the roof is exposed, check the condition of the sheathing. If there is no damage you should be fine as long as the waterproofing above is maintained. If there is any rot or damage, have the roof repaired and replaced before foaming.
U so t need to git the house dont buy into hype just dont disturb it if u have plaster wall dont remove it for paper wall cause when there is a flood u will be sorry. To insulate plaster place rigid foam insulation on the interior plaster wall with glue and place thin drywall Infront trust me it works petter than working with studs as there is no air leakage place a bracket or a track thing and top and bottom and fit the insulation and drywall in it to keep the drywall tight to the insulation and u can also glue the deywall and insulation together along with the top and bottom plate
you can do it but remove valve from inside the stem with the valve stem at 12o'clock. then begin using bursts of foam several seconds long then immediately cap and rotate tire several times. then stop at 12 again and do the same until full. be quick and have a helper.
Our factory is specialized in PU(polyurethane) machine and PU materials. we also have this kind of machine. If you are interested, pls contact me. E-mail: natalie@machinepu.com Whatsapp:008618915238982
Hola amigo eso se llama.foam. en inglés o espuma en español se utiliza para muchas cosas aquí en u.s.a es muy común en las construcciones de casas también lo utilizan las compañías que asen las yeleras esas que uno necesita para meter los refrescos en verano sirve para tapar las grietas y que no se salga o entre aire
You can get open or closed cell foam, your choice. 300 & 1000 are open cell. Check your store catalog or web page. Closed cell foam is the right choice for thermal insulation. Open cell foam is adequate for packaging, but can absorb water easily.
I bought a similar kit from menards. It came with 6 tips, I used 2. First one was trying to figure it out, second to do the job. Found it hard to work with and messy but would do it again on small projects. Probably best to leave everything else to professionals as box recommended.
These sorts kits are about £550 in uk, and have a maximum coverage of 56sqm @25mm thick, which works out at about £10sqm @ 25mm You can have a professional install a safer and far superior foam like, icynene from £4.50sqm @ 25mm so why bother?
+bigbadpman 200 Kit System will spray approximately 18m2 @ 25mm and are priced at 248 on www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/touch-n-foam-200---spray-foam-kit-pr-5203.php Thank you!
@Gerry K kinda hard to do it wrong when it plug and play. I called the company and they sent an extra 600 kit after the first one and the two 200 kits. It still did not expand. In order to get the thickness of 2-3 inches I had to go over it several times. I finally got it covered but it's only an 1.5 " thick. But thanks for you opinion and I'm happy you had better luck. I'll just have it done, it's only a dollar a ft these days anyway.
@Gerry K and you had enough for 800 SQ ft and only needed to cover 700. So you had extra to play with. I had 600 and bought the 650. Should've been plenty but wasn't. Here's what I think, they make a sealer that dosent expand much. So I'm thinking the wrong stuff either got packaged in the wrong boxes or it was just a bad batch and did not perform like it should've.
The 600s are a better deal than 200s. Measure the planned volume carefully. Always buy biggest tanks for the majority of the job. *If it's cold outside,* then it is the *wrong season* to be applying this to insulate your cold walls! Cold is the enemy. Always work within the 3 required temperature limits. Run a fan to keep all air circulating and to avoid excessive warm or cold walls. The closer the chemicals are to 90°F, the sooner the foam expands and the _sooner you can notice problems._ Get both chemical temperatures to 90°F before use. The liquid center will usually be colder than the metal tank. Slosh the liquids vigorously inside the tanks *each time* before measuring the tank side temperature. Don't get impatient while they warm up. Don't "over-do" it. I use a cheap digital IR (remote) thermal sensor since chemical bottles, wall surfaces, and air ALL need to be kept within strict limits. I measure a bit of foil to get air temperature. If you cannot easily work the entire room interior surface without stopping for more than 15 seconds at any moment, then you should consider buying more disposable nozzles before proceeding. You get 3 in the smaller kits, more in the larger kits. If you even suspect a problem, then immediately switch to scrap cardboard for a set of 5-second-on 15-second-off test runs. _If the chemicals do not mix 50/50 they won't react fully, nor expand completely, so STOP!_ *A bad mixture in your walls is bad for your health!* If the stream hitting cardboard - changes in speed or color - then STOP! The nozzle might be clogging up or one can may be empty before the other, so the mixture may stop being 50/50! If your corrugated cardboard test failed, then stop, slosh the tanks, and check *all* temperatures again. If the foam works fine on cardboard, but fails to expand as rapidly on a wall, then STOP! The wall is probably too cold, and you should have been measuring them and been proactive about this. Remove nozzle, clean and grease as needed and replace with a new nozzle after any pause longer than 25 seconds, _or if you suspect a clogged nozzle may be slowing the stream._
If you buy hard foam polyisocyanurate panels and fill the gaps with this closed spray foam, you can beat any professional installer on R-value, and cost. Also, look closely at the largest tank kit prices; they are much better deals. You can also get the respirator, safety suit, gloves, & boots all bundled with a kit.
@@avid0g would you still recommend doing this when living in a climate that gets to 10 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter? I’ve read that Polyisocyanurate loses its r value in weather under 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Thanks
@@brandonsanderson17 All of the rigid closed foams tend to contract somewhat as temperature drops, polyisocyanurate a bit more than others. That is what reduces the R value slightly. Their performance is still usually much better than any other insulation types, for a given cavity thickness, and although overall cost is higher, you cannot beat the overall results and reduced heating costs. In this situation look at the overall insulating value of various hard closed-foam panels at 10-40°F, to compare their relative performance. Closed foam polyurethane may very well be superior. Keep in mind that if the outside also may also get very hot in another season, then polyisocyanurate will be superior for that.
i wouldnt recommend this. I know a family who had to move to their backyard for 6 months until this garbage was removed from their attic, the fumes are deadly!
If the chemicals are mixed 50/50 and applied at the correct temperatures, and ALL procedures in this video are followed correctly, such as prep dump into a waste bag, and mixing on cardboard scraps to test reactivity, and 30% initial flow rate, it's safe. As you can see, there are many ways to screw up.
After 6 years it is time for all of these videos to be updated and answer some of the many questions asked. Nozzle selection ? Can it be sprayed overhead ? Technique of using the different nozzles ? How to safely heat canisters ? Etc, come on if you want top sell the product get off your hind ends and offer better presentations than this.
If it weren't fire resistant, you couldn't use it. Why would you have plumbing in an outside wall? If you need an electric repair, usually that means replacing a device, not wire. If you need to run new wire in an old application... in an outside wall... you are normally going to run wires as much as possible in interior walls. Any feeds you need in insulated walls will require you remove the drywall, then simply cut a channel and install it. No biggie. The only waste of time here is your attitude.
TomKaren94 another homeowner wannabe contractor that thinks they know everything about building science but in reality they only showed how ignorant they really are on how homes are put together. And why would you worry about a material putting off toxic fumes in a fire? I suppose the fumes from smoldering carpet, roofing shingles, and many other materials used in construction are ok to breath and the foam will give you lung cancer if you breathe it while it’s burning, it’s all extremely comical
Don´t worry. If you´re lucky you´ll develop cancer from the fumes the foam releases over the years whilst loosing its ability to insulate without a fire breaking out. Nothing is proven yet but so is the opposite. As a matter of fact you can´t buy foam in Germany under the age of 18. If you´re over 18 you have to ask a someone to unlock a cabinet for you. I am aware that there are different foams out there that use different , lets call it foaming agents, since my english vocabulary is limited, and that PU is a group of chemicals, but the prices are just as different. At least here in Germany. Noone in his right mind would do this to his home here. I´m not even sure if it would be legal, especially if you´re planning to rent the place to other people. Anyway i see no valid argument for foam insulation other than, in some cases, industrial Roofs. There are much better "alternatives" out there regarding physics in construction. But i also don´t know the market prices in the USA. Maybe thats the main selling point? Are there any other concepts of vapour control layers over there other than wrapping your house in plastic or using foam with µ=6.000 ?
If using spray foam I would run all electrical, entertainment related cables thru conduit and seal the conduit to the boxes then spray foam. All the plumbing should be centrally located in interior walls where spray foam would not be needed. What about condensation inside the walls where the foam is? What is the fire rating? I know refrigerated trailers have been using spray foam insulation for years. What is the life expectancy of this product?
@@jerrykinnin7941 A lot of people are going to be surprised that the vertical waste vent can freeze adjacent pipes - even the hot water pipe. The problem doesn't just occur in outside walls. Every time it hits -20°F, another group finds out. Arctic circle plumbing is needed in Midwestern America.
"moisture soaking and hazardous to environment" Only open cell foams are moisture wicking. Closed cell foam are impervious to water, and can be diced into filler for "aircrete", which is also recyclable.
It's youtube like this that drive me nuts. I just want to see how it works. I don't want 10min of stupid lawyer disclaimers and safety precautions. FFS. What a waste of my time.
11 paragraph advice:
Measure the required volume carefully. Always buy the biggest tanks for the majority of the job. The 600s are a much better deal than 200s.
*If it's cold outside,* then it is the *wrong season* to be applying this to insulate your cold walls!
Cold is the enemy. Always work within the 3 required temperature limits. Run a fan to keep all air circulating and to avoid excessively warm or cold walls.
The closer the chemicals are to 90°F, the sooner the foam expands and the _sooner you can notice problems._ Get both chemical temperatures to 90°F before use. The liquid center will usually be colder than the metal tank. Slosh the liquids vigorously inside the tanks *each time* before measuring the tank side temperature. Don't get impatient while they warm up. Don't "over-do" it.
I warm the chemical tanks in a small room with its own heater thermostat set to 90. I use a cheap digital IR (remote) thermal sensor since chemical bottles, wall surfaces, and air - ALL need to be kept within strict limits. I measure a bit of dry paper to get air temperature.
If you cannot easily work the entire room exterior walls without stopping for more than 15 seconds at any moment, then you should consider buying more disposable nozzles before proceeding. You get 3 in the smaller kits, more in the larger kits.
_If the two chemicals do not mix 50/50, then they won't react fully, nor expand completely!_ *A bad mixture in your walls is bad for your health!* There is a reason we wear a chemical respirator while applying this stuff !
As they show, always start a batch on scrap cardboard. If you even *suspect* a problem, then immediately switch to scrap cardboard for a set of 5-second-on 15-second-off test runs until you can measure the total expansion. If the stream hitting cardboard - changes in speed or color - then STOP! The nozzle might be clogging up, or one _Can_ may be empty before the _Other,_ either way the mixture may stop being 50/50!
If your corrugated cardboard test failed, then stop, slosh the tanks to estimate remaining liquids, and check *all* temperatures again.
If the foam works fine on cardboard, but fails to expand as rapidly on a wall, then STOP! The wall is probably too cold, and you should have been measuring them and been proactive about this. I make sure that wall cavities will stay within the temperature limit while the foam fully cures on the first coat. The colder the walls start out, the closer to the upper limit they should be preheated to.
Remove nozzle, clean and grease as needed and replace with a new nozzle after any pause longer than 30 seconds, _or if you suspect a clogged nozzle may be slowing the stream._
David Ogawa do you know if you can spray over foam board? This would help to get the surface temperature that I’m spraying to up and save on cost also. Thoughts?
@@wesbullock5191
My concerns are that only closed-cell foam is used, both foam boards and spray. Also, if the sheathing was not perfectly sealed during construction, then sealant should be applied from the interior to remedy that.
I have seen a video of one man combining foam board and spray, but he did not attempt to apply it below recommended temperature. You should also avoid that compromise. He was also careful to provide a large enough gap on each side of the foam boards to apply spray all the way down to the sheathing. This blocks convection and therefore condensation.
I also strongly recommend that you apply adhesive in many horizontal stripes full-width across the foam boards to limit vertical stratification of both air and moisture between the sheathing and foam boards.
Can you do multiple layers to achieve 3" thickness?
@@skutsenkow
Yes.
I've used a different brand . easy to set up and spray. One must Cary a small crescent wrench as the lil yellow handles to turn on both tanks are a bit stiff. Other than that its fun to use . happy spraying.
Is there any special instructions for coating the interior side of a foundation block wall, partially below grade?
Hola de Brasil
incredible work
boa noite!
These are great for small projects.
How do I remove the uncured stuff from my joists that comes out at the end when the two parts do not mix equally?
buenos videos
construccion
#1
wow
I have the same machine. Could you please help on any distributors for the 750 foam.
Are the tanks refillable?
Step 1: Setup Foam Kit.
Step 2: Waste half the expensive Foam before applying.
Step 3: Apply remaining Foam for 120 seconds.
Step 4: Go buy another Foam Kit.
Besides, every 5 weeks you need to purge system if any left to store.
Don't even bother - call professional Spray foam company
@@CapeCodSprayFoamLLC Actually its even worse than that -- purge EVERY week and dispose of after 30 days! :)
Love the narrator's Wisconsin accent.
jaisvikt ahh..sounds like Chicago as well. Its just a Midwestern accent
Thank you
Can the nozzles be cleaned out with acetone?
Wow, welcome to Wisconsin…
Fantastic video, I was trying to decide on this product or another brand and the video was super helpful that it was enough to swing my decision. Thanks for the support. I will buy the product, all 1000 bucks worth too!
Des produits similaires ont été retirés de la vente en France
Is the 600 sp. ft. stuff poisonous or anything? We have plants that we may damage with this product and we are worried if it will or not. PLEASE HELP!
I'm getting the run around trying to get a average cost per square foot by contractor for a estimate. I believe I'll use o e of these kits instead. Thx.
Can use on ceilings?
distribuidor en argentina ?????
Tubes cane off the cans. Foam started to come ort and hardened in the hose and on the can. Changed the nozzle but the hose is full of hardened foam. Can't get the unit to work now.
Tom stilwell7004@roadrunner.com
it's not mixed in the hose
@@gregwright4751 LOL
Are there any special nozzles so you do not have to remove all your drywall?
No you dumb fuck.
This stuff can lift concrete driveways, so no. If you apply too much, the wall bursts.
The mineral-based foams do not expand after application, but only aircrete is DIY. (The magnesium oxide foam is a proprietary system. You have to pay to get training, lease equipment & franchise.)
Can this product be used for overhead installations?
Did I hear that correct if you stop 30sec then must replace nozzle? So I have to run like rabbit joist to joist on a ladder? No thanks
If this product is not safe, what is a safe product for diy spray foam?
It's safe if you can do *everything* correctly. The film also implies there are ways a professional or amatuer could screw up - and now you could spot that.
If you are going to spray in foam to a flat roof from the inside, will that cause issues when a roofer needs to replace the roof? My home needs to be gutted (Asbestos) and it will have an exposed ceiling.. Should I layer the plywood under the roof with anything to prevent the spray foam from adhering to the plywood if/when it needs to be replaced so the roofers do not pull out the foam ?
Pop
tar paper would work
When the underside of the roof is exposed, check the condition of the sheathing. If there is no damage you should be fine as long as the waterproofing above is maintained. If there is any rot or damage, have the roof repaired and replaced before foaming.
If the foam has nothing to stick to it wont stay put, gravity and all.
U so t need to git the house dont buy into hype just dont disturb it if u have plaster wall dont remove it for paper wall cause when there is a flood u will be sorry. To insulate plaster place rigid foam insulation on the interior plaster wall with glue and place thin drywall Infront trust me it works petter than working with studs as there is no air leakage place a bracket or a track thing and top and bottom and fit the insulation and drywall in it to keep the drywall tight to the insulation and u can also glue the deywall and insulation together along with the top and bottom plate
We're from purchase these tools...?
will it be a good ideal to put this great stuff inside a real tree monster moto mini bike tire so that the tire don't go flat ?
I bet it would crunch up into so much powder in a few days. You might as well fill your tire with Rice Krispies.
you can do it but remove valve from inside the stem with the valve stem at 12o'clock. then begin using bursts of foam several seconds long then immediately cap and rotate tire several times. then stop at 12 again and do the same until full. be quick and have a helper.
I need this, can You help me? I am Romanian
Our factory is specialized in PU(polyurethane) machine and PU materials. we also have this kind of machine. If you are interested, pls contact me. E-mail: natalie@machinepu.com Whatsapp:008618915238982
Q precio vale el equipo
В России продаеться?и сколько стоит?
Pot găsi așa ceva în Romania?
how long does the temp need to be above 60 deg after we use the kit?
I had my home insulation by usa insulation of indianapolis and all the foam is all crack up
Can you send it to algeria?
Foam Kits are closed cell.
+Touch 'n Seal what about this one?
www.touch-n-seal.com/1-pcf-kits.html
+lightningfrog27 Open cell
p
Surtout plein de produits chimiques etmerdiques !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Where can I get it in Saudi Arabia
@Tom S is this what's in your tiny mind 😂
In Vietnam , where i can buy and try it
Do you know who Jesus Christ is
At leasr it has a practical handle! 🙈
Make me a YUCKIE!! COOLER!!
What is the price of it?
Close to 400$
Home depot has 200ft for $340, 600ft for $770
Que alguien me digas q es eso y para q lo usan .. Gracias
Hola amigo eso se llama.foam. en inglés o espuma en español se utiliza para muchas cosas aquí en u.s.a es muy común en las construcciones de casas también lo utilizan las compañías que asen las yeleras esas que uno necesita para meter los refrescos en verano sirve para tapar las grietas y que no se salga o entre aire
@@olvinlarios1980 ok cuando me dijiste hielera di de una cual era
Где купить в России? Мне надо
is it open cell or closed cell?
Closed.
You can get open or closed cell foam, your choice. 300 & 1000 are open cell. Check your store catalog or web page.
Closed cell foam is the right choice for thermal insulation.
Open cell foam is adequate for packaging, but can absorb water easily.
Is this a safe product to use on your complaining wife?
Ralph Valkenhoff its harmless but she will still complain
what is the R value of the touch N seal 200? Does anyone know?
marky mark R7 at 1 inch
depends on the thickness and the foam density.
Can i clean the used nozzles?
nope waste of time
I bought a similar kit from menards. It came with 6 tips, I used 2. First one was trying to figure it out, second to do the job.
Found it hard to work with and messy but would do it again on small projects. Probably best to leave everything else to professionals as box recommended.
How to get started: waste half the can testing if it’s set up properly.
Enfe exactly they u won’t get have the sqft promised
Ml
These sorts kits are about £550 in uk, and have a maximum coverage of 56sqm @25mm thick, which works out at about £10sqm @ 25mm
You can have a professional install a safer and far superior foam like, icynene from £4.50sqm @ 25mm so why bother?
+bigbadpman 200 Kit System will spray approximately 18m2 @ 25mm and are priced at 248 on www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/touch-n-foam-200---spray-foam-kit-pr-5203.php
Thank you!
Why do you have to waste so much material before you start?
So you have to buy more.
Do not taunt Touch'seal Foam kit.
Do not use this for a large job. It will cost a fortune. I did 600 SQ ft and had to but 3 kits. Cost me 1500. Could have had it done for 1000
@Gerry K kinda hard to do it wrong when it plug and play. I called the company and they sent an extra 600 kit after the first one and the two 200 kits. It still did not expand. In order to get the thickness of 2-3 inches I had to go over it several times. I finally got it covered but it's only an 1.5 " thick. But thanks for you opinion and I'm happy you had better luck. I'll just have it done, it's only a dollar a ft these days anyway.
@Gerry K and you had enough for 800 SQ ft and only needed to cover 700. So you had extra to play with. I had 600 and bought the 650. Should've been plenty but wasn't. Here's what I think, they make a sealer that dosent expand much. So I'm thinking the wrong stuff either got packaged in the wrong boxes or it was just a bad batch and did not perform like it should've.
The 600s are a better deal than 200s. Measure the planned volume carefully. Always buy biggest tanks for the majority of the job.
*If it's cold outside,* then it is the *wrong season* to be applying this to insulate your cold walls!
Cold is the enemy. Always work within the 3 required temperature limits. Run a fan to keep all air circulating and to avoid excessive warm or cold walls.
The closer the chemicals are to 90°F, the sooner the foam expands and the _sooner you can notice problems._ Get both chemical temperatures to 90°F before use. The liquid center will usually be colder than the metal tank. Slosh the liquids vigorously inside the tanks *each time* before measuring the tank side temperature. Don't get impatient while they warm up. Don't "over-do" it. I use a cheap digital IR (remote) thermal sensor since chemical bottles, wall surfaces, and air ALL need to be kept within strict limits. I measure a bit of foil to get air temperature.
If you cannot easily work the entire room interior surface without stopping for more than 15 seconds at any moment, then you should consider buying more disposable nozzles before proceeding. You get 3 in the smaller kits, more in the larger kits.
If you even suspect a problem, then immediately switch to scrap cardboard for a set of 5-second-on 15-second-off test runs. _If the chemicals do not mix 50/50 they won't react fully, nor expand completely, so STOP!_ *A bad mixture in your walls is bad for your health!* If the stream hitting cardboard - changes in speed or color - then STOP! The nozzle might be clogging up or one can may be empty before the other, so the mixture may stop being 50/50!
If your corrugated cardboard test failed, then stop, slosh the tanks, and check *all* temperatures again.
If the foam works fine on cardboard, but fails to expand as rapidly on a wall, then STOP! The wall is probably too cold, and you should have been measuring them and been proactive about this.
Remove nozzle, clean and grease as needed and replace with a new nozzle after any pause longer than 25 seconds, _or if you suspect a clogged nozzle may be slowing the stream._
Proinsu Chile
Proinsu Claudio .' "4!''¡
.
Proinsu 1!@@
Proinsu Claudio▪▪'▪▶■●■◆◆♣♣☆
Proinsu Claudio .
.ll
Llk
.,_|》《《》~,` kĺ bu'-- /,ĺl
Too expensive for what it gives you!
If you buy hard foam polyisocyanurate panels and fill the gaps with this closed spray foam, you can beat any professional installer on R-value, and cost.
Also, look closely at the largest tank kit prices; they are much better deals. You can also get the respirator, safety suit, gloves, & boots all bundled with a kit.
@@avid0g would you still recommend doing this when living in a climate that gets to 10 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter? I’ve read that Polyisocyanurate loses its r value in weather under 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Thanks
@@brandonsanderson17
All of the rigid closed foams tend to contract somewhat as temperature drops, polyisocyanurate a bit more than others. That is what reduces the R value slightly. Their performance is still usually much better than any other insulation types, for a given cavity thickness, and although overall cost is higher, you cannot beat the overall results and reduced heating costs. In this situation look at the overall insulating value of various hard closed-foam panels at 10-40°F, to compare their relative performance. Closed foam polyurethane may very well be superior.
Keep in mind that if the outside also may also get very hot in another season, then polyisocyanurate will be superior for that.
@@avid0g Hey, is this stuff poisonous for plants or humans? What should we watch out for before spraying the 600 Sq. Ft. kit?
Shelf life?
i wouldnt recommend this. I know a family who had to move to their backyard for 6 months until this garbage was removed from their attic, the fumes are deadly!
If the chemicals are mixed 50/50 and applied at the correct temperatures, and ALL procedures in this video are followed correctly, such as prep dump into a waste bag, and mixing on cardboard scraps to test reactivity, and 30% initial flow rate, it's safe.
As you can see, there are many ways to screw up.
How to use poison.....
Toxic to us, heavenly home to bugs.
After 6 years it is time for all of these videos to be updated and answer some of the many questions asked. Nozzle selection ? Can it be sprayed overhead ? Technique of using the different nozzles ? How to safely heat canisters ? Etc, come on if you want top sell the product get off your hind ends and offer better presentations than this.
HEAT CANISTERS WITH HEATING PAD. It works great.
This product are the worst, i recommend tiger spray foam
You be mad in the head to buy this thing
So many toxic
so few brains
Refer to people that know how to read!!!
Is it appropriate for DIY boob jobs?
Waste of time. What if your plumbing develops a leak or need to repair electrical wiring. And if it burns. The fumes are toxic
If it weren't fire resistant, you couldn't use it. Why would you have plumbing in an outside wall? If you need an electric repair, usually that means replacing a device, not wire. If you need to run new wire in an old application... in an outside wall... you are normally going to run wires as much as possible in interior walls. Any feeds you need in insulated walls will require you remove the drywall, then simply cut a channel and install it. No biggie. The only waste of time here is your attitude.
TomKaren94 another homeowner wannabe contractor that thinks they know everything about building science but in reality they only showed how ignorant they really are on how homes are put together.
And why would you worry about a material putting off toxic fumes in a fire? I suppose the fumes from smoldering carpet, roofing shingles, and many other materials used in construction are ok to breath and the foam will give you lung cancer if you breathe it while it’s burning, it’s all extremely comical
Don´t worry. If you´re lucky you´ll develop cancer from the fumes the foam releases over the years whilst loosing its ability to insulate without a fire breaking out. Nothing is proven yet but so is the opposite.
As a matter of fact you can´t buy foam in Germany under the age of 18. If you´re over 18 you have to ask a someone to unlock a cabinet for you.
I am aware that there are different foams out there that use different , lets call it foaming agents, since my english vocabulary is limited, and that PU is a group of chemicals, but the prices are just as different. At least here in Germany. Noone in his right mind would do this to his home here.
I´m not even sure if it would be legal, especially if you´re planning to rent the place to other people.
Anyway i see no valid argument for foam insulation other than, in some cases, industrial Roofs. There are much better "alternatives" out there regarding physics in construction. But i also don´t know the market prices in the USA. Maybe thats the main selling point?
Are there any other concepts of vapour control layers over there other than wrapping your house in plastic or using foam with µ=6.000 ?
If using spray foam I would run all electrical, entertainment related cables thru conduit and seal the conduit to the boxes then spray foam. All the plumbing should be centrally located in interior walls where spray foam would not be needed.
What about condensation inside the walls where the foam is? What is the fire rating? I know refrigerated trailers have been using spray foam insulation for years. What is the life expectancy of this product?
@@jerrykinnin7941
A lot of people are going to be surprised that the vertical waste vent can freeze adjacent pipes - even the hot water pipe. The problem doesn't just occur in outside walls. Every time it hits -20°F, another group finds out. Arctic circle plumbing is needed in Midwestern America.
Too expensive..
Moisture soaking and hazardous to the environment
"moisture soaking and hazardous to environment"
Only open cell foams are moisture wicking. Closed cell foam are impervious to water, and can be diced into filler for "aircrete", which is also recyclable.
Dont use that its crap use handi foam
Living in a House of Poison!!! No, thanks!!!
It's youtube like this that drive me nuts. I just want to see how it works. I don't want 10min of stupid lawyer disclaimers and safety precautions. FFS. What a waste of my time.
I will not be buying this.
Buy real spray foam this shit is trash
It's good but even the largest 600 size kit for 1200 Canadian won't go very far. TH-cam search poor man's spray foam for a much better solution
At least it has a practical handle !🙈