Find out how to build a decking subframe using Carpenters Mate Self Drilling Wood Screws. This informative video is brought to you by Jake from Fairweather Garden Construction
Really good guide , little things like the extra nothing instead of trying for the very long angle. Keep on posting as you are easy to watch and explain things really well
That timber frame, even if pressure treated, will not last long. This type of treated softwood support framing will decay very rapidly, especially on the upper face at the exposed gaps.the most vulnerable area is where 2 boards butt end to end. Since the water surface tension resists drying out here. You need to treat it all with multiple coats of microporous wood treatment eg Sikkens range, and give very special attention to the top face of the entire frame. ideally place a membrane strip (such as ProtectaDek) onto the top face of the timber support, before laying the boards. Some pro's will instead treat the top face with 2 coats of bitumous paint instead of using a plastic membrane strip. This helps slow down the decay at these most exposed points of the top face.. After 20 years of laying decks, I only use a hardwood deck on a hardwood frame. It works out less expensive in the long run, Otherwise you will be pulling it up in 7-8 years time.
I went last year (2023) with friends to see a house they were thinking of buying. The decking outside was weak and 'springing' when walked on. It didn't look all that old but was in place for maybe 10-15 years. The wooden support posts were in bad shape (damp rising up them) and the joists were loose on their screws. They didn't buy that house as it happened. I always put breezeblock pillars on good foundations under decking and strong, galvanised coach bolts to hold everything together. I also put plastic DPC on top of the joists, as your never going to keep the rain off otherwise. My late father (a brickie for many years) always said "get the water away quickly and keep it as dry as you can" when it came to anything building wise. Words that have helped me greatly over the years. You can also paint wooden joists etc. with wood/metal primer aswell (usually the red stuff) as it all helps long term and anything you do to keep the wood from rotting or going soft, is a good thing. It might seem pointless with modern pressure treated wood, but I've seen this treated wood (2" x 6") go rotten and disintegrate totally in the space of less than 10 years, due to being next to a river and constantly damp. Also have small gaps to brickwork to help wood dry out and not holding any damp in place can help aswell. Galvanised coach bolts are also easier to take out instead of any possibly rusted screws for any repairs, so plan ahead I always say. Screw into the middle of bricks etc. as screwing into a cement joint (like in the video) isn't the strongest method of fixing to a wall. There's loads of 'tricks' to use of course, but plan on how to repair something in the future as easily as possible, just in case your called back to do any maintenance etc.
Either notch the post, or use an M12 bolted connection. In a bolt the 'clamping' action holds the load, which you don't really get with a screw. Best option is to notch AND bolt.
Hi There, thanks for your video and tips as you go along building the deck. I've seen in other video's "not yours", they are using hangers in each joist. Do we need hangers or that is overkill since we are not going to put too much weight on the deck. Thanks
Hi, thanks for your feedback - we are currently undergoing an overhaul of our marketing channels and content, therefore, we'll be quicker to reply and engage with viewers from now on - thanks for watching and we'll be posting new and updated content shortly including our Stars of the Landscaping Season campaign.
Few comments 1. Use a mask pouring concrete mix, cement dust in the lungs isn't worth 2. Space posts 100mm off the bottom of the hole, there should be 100mm of concrete footing under the post. 3. That timber is WET (9:55), probably best to strip stack it for a few weeks under cover if possible to avoid movement as it dries out 4. If you're going to attach joists/bearers to the side of the post you need a bolted connection not screwed, so the friction between the clamped together members holds the load (not your screw) The 400ctrs, painting the cut ends, and general attention to detail is good though!
Hi Gary, Sorry for the delay in replying.....We're undergoing an overhaul of our marketing content, subscribe to our channel (if not already done so) for new videos coming soon. They will feature start to finish on-site demo's and features from our very own video studio we have at our OSC HQ.
Really good guide , little things like the extra nothing instead of trying for the very long angle. Keep on posting as you are easy to watch and explain things really well
As a carpenter and general all rounder great to watch projects like this and to see good trades doing the job properly
Thanks for the feedback
Brilliant video this 👏 great to see all the details and explanations behind them
Love that you bitumened the timbers ☺
Nice job and good video 👍
That timber frame, even if pressure treated, will not last long. This type of treated softwood support framing will decay very rapidly, especially on the upper face at the exposed gaps.the most vulnerable area is where 2 boards butt end to end. Since the water surface tension resists drying out here. You need to treat it all with multiple coats of microporous wood treatment eg Sikkens range, and give very special attention to the top face of the entire frame. ideally place a membrane strip (such as ProtectaDek) onto the top face of the timber support, before laying the boards. Some pro's will instead treat the top face with 2 coats of bitumous paint instead of using a plastic membrane strip. This helps slow down the decay at these most exposed points of the top face.. After 20 years of laying decks, I only use a hardwood deck on a hardwood frame. It works out less expensive in the long run, Otherwise you will be pulling it up in 7-8 years time.
Use C24 UC4…. suitable for ground contact
I went last year (2023) with friends to see a house they were thinking of buying. The decking outside was weak and 'springing' when walked on. It didn't look all that old but was in place for maybe 10-15 years. The wooden support posts were in bad shape (damp rising up them) and the joists were loose on their screws. They didn't buy that house as it happened.
I always put breezeblock pillars on good foundations under decking and strong, galvanised coach bolts to hold everything together. I also put plastic DPC on top of the joists, as your never going to keep the rain off otherwise. My late father (a brickie for many years) always said "get the water away quickly and keep it as dry as you can" when it came to anything building wise. Words that have helped me greatly over the years.
You can also paint wooden joists etc. with wood/metal primer aswell (usually the red stuff) as it all helps long term and anything you do to keep the wood from rotting or going soft, is a good thing.
It might seem pointless with modern pressure treated wood, but I've seen this treated wood (2" x 6") go rotten and disintegrate totally in the space of less than 10 years, due to being next to a river and constantly damp.
Also have small gaps to brickwork to help wood dry out and not holding any damp in place can help aswell. Galvanised coach bolts are also easier to take out instead of any possibly rusted screws for any repairs, so plan ahead I always say.
Screw into the middle of bricks etc. as screwing into a cement joint (like in the video) isn't the strongest method of fixing to a wall. There's loads of 'tricks' to use of course, but plan on how to repair something in the future as easily as possible, just in case your called back to do any maintenance etc.
Love your work! Quick question: what’s some methods for leveling post height against the others that spans a distance? Thanks in advance 🙏
Should the post not be notched? Just so the beams weight is transferred through the post, not just relying on the steel bolts?
Either notch the post, or use an M12 bolted connection. In a bolt the 'clamping' action holds the load, which you don't really get with a screw. Best option is to notch AND bolt.
Hi There, thanks for your video and tips as you go along building the deck. I've seen in other video's "not yours", they are using hangers in each joist. Do we need hangers or that is overkill since we are not going to put too much weight on the deck. Thanks
Hi What centres do you have your concrete timber posts? Thanks
I see a lot of ppl putting the decking at the same level as DPC .Don't you worry about the splash effect and damp going into the walls ?
It would be nice if you answered viewers' questions.
Hi, thanks for your feedback - we are currently undergoing an overhaul of our marketing channels and content, therefore, we'll be quicker to reply and engage with viewers from now on - thanks for watching and we'll be posting new and updated content shortly including our Stars of the Landscaping Season campaign.
Surprised to see that you don’t use joist hangers. Do you think they are overkill for a deck?
Good work guys. Lots of info but missed the post spacings. Need to get some proper site footwear too... IMO
Sorry for the delay in replying - thanks for the feedback.
What with the structure being up from the ground-level... will rats and mice not make homes under it ?
Few comments
1. Use a mask pouring concrete mix, cement dust in the lungs isn't worth
2. Space posts 100mm off the bottom of the hole, there should be 100mm of concrete footing under the post.
3. That timber is WET (9:55), probably best to strip stack it for a few weeks under cover if possible to avoid movement as it dries out
4. If you're going to attach joists/bearers to the side of the post you need a bolted connection not screwed, so the friction between the clamped together members holds the load (not your screw)
The 400ctrs, painting the cut ends, and general attention to detail is good though!
What’s the width of the wood used in this video and also the type of screw used to secure the wood to the concrete walls?
Where are the rest of the videos showing the progress and the finished project.
Hi Gary, Sorry for the delay in replying.....We're undergoing an overhaul of our marketing content, subscribe to our channel (if not already done so) for new videos coming soon. They will feature start to finish on-site demo's and features from our very own video studio we have at our OSC HQ.
Do you guys take projects in London by any chance?
Sorry for the delay in replying - Please visit fairdeck.co.uk/ for contact info.
looks expensive
screwing to the sides of the posts is always a poor idea.
Hi, can you elaborate on why?
Think they were referring to screws shearing but nails not? I have always used landscape screws, staircase fixings, so who knows!