Thank you for your feedback on this video. I addressed as much of the concern as I could in the next video. See PART TWO of the finished deck here: th-cam.com/video/Me6UX5nszrk/w-d-xo.html
You are, obviously, a DIY Guy! So learning is part of the experience. I know you took a lot of heat for the design (I personally chose to not call you out), but it showed what a real man you are to go back and make the necessary corrections to have a safe and awesome deck for years to come! :)
Not bashing but you should really think about removing this video. This was your first video I watched and it immediately discredited your other DIY projects in my mind. I went and browsed your other videos and they look great but you know what they say about first impressions... Don’t let your other great work be discredited by this safety hazard. Where I take issue with this video is safety concerns of people building a deck in this manner. Here’s and example I lived: My house had a 6’ elevated deck of similar construction built before I bought the place. Rim joists were screwed into the 4x4 posts with 5, 3”-4” screws and all the joist were then screwed into the rim joists without hangers. This made a single point of failure of the 5 screws from the rim joist into the 4x4. They fail and the whole deck crashes down! Enough added weight from people and it was only a matter of time that it would fail. The first thing I did after moving in was add lag bolts to all the 4x4 rim joists. When doing this, i found that 2 of the 5 screws had already rusted and failed. I ultimately had to tear down that old because of safety concerns and rebuild it. You have great DIY videos so thank you for those! You should consider retiring this video though.
A lot of comments are saying the deck was built wrong. He used 2x8s way overkill, supports should be every 8 feet, 2x6 supports every 6 feet, 2x4 supports every 4 feet. The duck tape good idea in a hot and wet climate. I would have used cement blocks to support the deck, on top of some crushed stone, buried as necessary to level the deck.No wood touching the ground. No joist hangers needed, sill plate would be good to keep everything lined up. I would have used 2x6s for decking, much cheaper or PT deck boards, everything PT. 2x6 decking only needs 24'" spacing on joists. I built a ground level deck in Maine, ground is like hardpan, cement block on ground surface, 2x4 sub structure, joist hangers only where absolutely necessary. 2x6 decking, some 2x4s were doubled for extra strength. substructure was solid and strong. Maine does not have a problem with earthquakes, tornados or termites and hurricanes are quite rare. Come visit Maine vacationland.
Good work man! My father and I have been building decks like this for many years and they are rock solid even without joist hangers. We use 3 inch screws on all the structure and we overbuild it with extra cross bracing just to be sure. The decks are still standing 10-20 years later and we saved lots of money not bothering with the expensive hangers, brackets and lag bolts.
I think your little girl’s help made a big difference in your project 🥰. I am in Florida as well and I do worry about creatures making a home under any structure …
Shouldn't the deck frame be bolted to the support posts ? (Large deck bolts with washers )... and cut a notch out on one side of the top of the support post the width of the joist board for the joists to sit on and deep enough for the joist to be flush with the top of the support post?
@@stevedavid2468 is it needed to offend the way you do it? I believe that the video is posted knowing that the viewers will leave a comment about this. And the job done is bad. We all know it, did you know it? .. Does it make you feel better to call “dickhead” to Brian while he is right about his comment? I just think that you head thinks about dicks all the time bro. You are not a good person.
Nice. One recommendation (may have already been mentioned) for anyone doing this or for you next time. I would strongly recommend putting your main beams or at least a few joists on top of a post instead of screwing in from the side. If you really don't want to do that then I'd recommend at a minimum using carriage bolts all the way through your 4x4s and supports. I wouldn't even use lag screws let alone the 4 inch deck screws you used. They'll be loose as soon as the wood shrinks a little and they just don't have the shear strength to support the deck. Not a terribly dangerous situation since the deck is so low, but if this was a 2nd story deck it would be quite dangerous.
Yes I totally agree. At minimum the posts should be thru bolted and there should be joist hangers. This deck has essentially no structure. The entire weight of the deck and anything/anyone on it is being held by the screws that attach the 4x4 posts. That won't be safe (or pass code anywhere) and it won't last long. This deck is high enough off the ground that you could have had proper support beams under the joists instead of having all the weight hanging on the post fasteners.
I agree. Rebating the posts, so the deck bearers sit on top of the posts will give maximum support. An alternative we use in Australia are galvanised steel stirrups, set into concrete footings. No ground moisture up to the bearers & joists. Also, if setting wooden posts in concrete, fill the holes with concrete, and screed a slight cone on top, just above ground level. This allows water to run off outwards away from the timber. That deck, otherwise, looks great. I love the angled face. Look forward to Part 2. Goodonyamate 🇦🇺
Wow! If building house was just frame wall and with squares any one can build it. Really surprise how some one with so many subscribers can go ahead just building to grow channel more. No no no!,,
Wow. Thank you for posting this. After watching this I noticed so many mistakes that I was making and your video really helped me to go back and fix everything and it made my work so much easier. Thank you
When u build, you stack the load. Fasteners hold things together. They don’t support weight. If he wanted to do the build the same way; he needs carriage bolts. The best way to build a deck is to have a beam running along the post with a post to joist bracket. Then put the joist on top of the beam or secure to the beam with joist hangers
This is a surface deck... While I understand the need to utilize carriage bolts rather than screws, beams add just another 6 inches of depth you would have to use in addition to the 6 inches of joist width. I have the same predicament. I 'm not going to dig down under the ground to support the joists. What's your solution?
@@avilandafear6502 Notch the 4x4 post out so that you can slide the band joists in on both sides and then you can run carriage bolts through both of them. Eliminates 6” of height and gives you vertical strength
@@bradd6376 This was the comment I was looking for as screws holding the frame to the post can, when load is applied, 'slide down' and the deck will drop. Also even though the wood is, in the UK we call it tanilised, a wood treatment to protect the wood outside, but no matter how much protection the wood has, if its resting on the floor or ground it will suck up moisture and go rotten. Landscaper with 25 years experience.
Hello, i liked your video as I am looking to build a deck myself, but i was wondering how do or where i need to go on the lowes website to get the lowes deck design. Appreciate your advice
Interesting build coming from the NE. My only comment would be always put your deck ON the vertical support/4x4 pier. You never want to attach your rim or joist to the side of a vertical if possible. Logical build, good job.
Pro Tip: Just dump the dry concrete into the hole. It will setup from the moisture in the ground. And try to make sure none of the wood from the steps sits on the ground or it will rot. Putting some gravel/rock under it will ensure it will dry out. Otherwise it will sit in the moist dirt and rot prematurely .
Handi-Block HBLK Concrete Deck Pier, With these you set these at the corners and anywhere in between and they cradle two by lumber. No screws or straps needed.
Note: Don’t use deck screws to attach joists. Deck screws do not have sufficient shear strength. Use galvanized nails at 1 per 2” (so an 8” joist gets 4 nails)
On one hand you’re absolutely right, because on the other hand there are joist-rated screws that are allowed by code in some regions, but he wasn’t using them here.
I'm also building a 48x17 deck, and new to it as well. From my research, deck screws are about as useful as drywall screw. Cheap, heads will pop off, really only should be used for screw deck boards/trex in. Otherwise, borrow or rent a nail gun and use hot dipped galvanized nails and actual structural screws. Nail gun is going to save hours of work, and you end up with a very strong structure that will fail gracefully as nails will bend vs catastrophic snapping/failure of deck screws. Yes you can use deck screws as done here when the frame is properly supported, however the minimal cost is minimal if you take into account the value you place on your family/friends, resale value. Or if you have a Permitting guy who's going to Inspect...
I’ve also built all my decks screwing in the side using chunky screws with impact drivers, it ain’t going nowhere! The joint is pulled VERY tightly together using impact drivers so I think this adds to the shear strength.
I like the design but the weak point is the posts. The posts need to be set in the concrete up to ground level, else they rot due to the water exposure.
I was going to comment the same. PT wood (even ground contact certified) should still be raised off the ground sitting on a proper footing like a landscaping block.
@@potatopotatoeOG in the UK we have a practice of setting the wooden posts in concrete if they are below ground level. Stops the wood from being exposed to moisture. It's almost what he did but the mai difference is that we don't back fill with soil, we pour the concrete in until it comes to ground level.
Here in Durban, South Africa, we have a similar climate to Florida. We do the same as Glen did with his treated posts and they take at least 10 to 15 years before moisture starts to ruin them.
I agree. An alternative we use in Australia are galvanised steel stirrups, set into concrete footings. No ground moisture up to the bearers & joists. Or, if setting wooden posts in concrete, fill the holes with concrete, and screed a slight cone on top, just above ground level. This allows water to run off outwards away from the timber. That deck, otherwise, looks great. I love the angled face. Look forward to Part 2. Goodonyamate 🇦🇺
You're right on this whole structure doesn't have any solid support. I would never allow wood to touch the ground on any structure build here in California.
I saw this, and i dont think its correctable at this point. Im super rusty but im thinking he should have notched a 6x6 post that is set above ground on a cement footing to hold two 2x6s sandwiched together then ran the joists over the top or tied into with some simpsons. I always confuse decks with patio roof frames.
...good job .. the only thing I would add is that screws are great for tensile strength but nails are much better for shear ... therefore nails are preferred for floor joists
Enjoyed the build and commentary. There are some good tips in the comments by peeps who have built commercially and you will know next time, but in reality you prob have 5 years of enjoyment. So close to ground, No danger if something rots. And when it drops it will only be a little. I have told soooo many people who 'ask how did you?' That 'with the internet there is no excuse for not knowing how, why, when, where. You can read 'how' on YT and 'what' in the building code and if you work with a lumber house they will tell you how best to use their products. Looking forward to more!
Oops, meant to say another thing is the sanding and grinding probably removes the insect / rot protection . It is very shallow. Use copper sulfate or something for protection on all sanded, or cut surfaces. Yes even ends of cut lumber. Maybe take a look at This old house,on YT
I've never seen a deck screwed to the sides of support posts instead of sitting on them. I don't think I'd follow this: this means the entire load is supported by the screws instead of the posts.
Looks like it's going to be a great deck. But there are 2 issues that may or may not become problems in the future. First, deck screws are not designed for shear loads. I would have used joist hangers with nails. Second, surrounding word posts with concrete without some sort of barrier between the 2 can cause the wood to rot prematurely. This is caused by the concrete naturally retains water.
It is so good to see that some people know the importance of moisture barrier underneath flooring. Most American builders are so ignorant of the fundamental fact that moisture is the worst enemy to all structures. And moisture breeds mold and rotting.
Put your 2 outside runners together. Pull layout 16" from one end. Your tape should have every 16" highlighted. The way you did it if your board was short or proud your layout will be off more and more as you go.
Everyone uses a wheelbarrow to mix cement and I don't have space to store one. Never thought to use one of those plastic tubs! Also, that jig to hold the joists was clever. Thanks for the info!
@@hansmuller4338 Why you want to bury it underground in first place. I usually lay concrete slab or block on those places where come support post. And build deck above them, no need to dig, no need to worry about moisture from ground.
@@mr.wizeguy8995 my first house, built in 1998 in Virginia had a rear floating deck about 4.5 ft off the ground, 10X10. The vertical support beams were pretreated 6x6s buried maybe 9 inches into the dirt, with no footing or gravel base of any kind. The two support beams away from the house rotted through last year. I moved into the house in 2007. So they lasted at least 11 years, surprisingly. They could have been original, so maybe almost 20 years old. Not saying I'm in favor of burying wood. I was just surprised that this is how this builder built a deck in the 90s. I imagine even back then builders were worried about moisture. Maybe a cost savings decision by the builder.
@@willywonkabar I have deck in my backyard it's at least 20 year old it's resting on few concrete pavers that have been laid over ground. Wood is pressure treated and deck is in really good condition.
Well done. Being in N Central Florida myself, I would prefer my post be above ground level. On mine I use a tube formed post at least 6” above ground level with a Simpson anchor for the 4x4. Hopefully yours is rot free for many many years.
Man, the effort you put in this project is priceless but unfortunately is not the right way to build a deck. The whole process is wrong and there is no way you would be able to pass inspection
I have appreciation for your effort. However as long as your deck is only for looks, it should be safe. If you want to have people stand on it then you probably should have the posts or part under the joists rather then screwed in. Bolts would be better but still would not provide the strength needed as they too can rip through the wood. Luckily the deck is ground level so the fall isn't as hazardous as if it were higher in the air. Good job though! I learned the hard way and just sharing and not intending to be rude or critical. I would suggest having 4 posts or cement footings (two in front and two in back in about 2 feet from the edge of the deck) positioned horizontal to each other with support beams (10 inch wide) running the length and attached on TOP of the post or footings. Then the joists crossing the supprt beams vertical.
I want to build a deck but the right way. Can you please inform me of the right bolts that I would need? Mine is also going to be ground-level and this length/width Thanks in advance.
Nice job getting ready to build on my property in Desolation Wilderness in Northern California. Going to build a 12 x16 deck to hold a 12x14 wall tent. Any suggestions? Figure I can ad deck space in front of wall tent later
Once everything is fastened together, it's probably ok, except where the joists attach to the posts. I would definitely use lag screws or lag bolts there, at least.
You are an artist over all you are a such an amazing builder ! And so good way to record and edit this 2 big videos !!! Congratulations for getting done your entirely project !!!
My (admittedly) minimal understanding was that I thought you were supposed to put landscaping pebbles under the post for drainage, as concrete under the posts would lead to water retention and rot?
Built a similar style deck off of a raised deck that was built by previous owner. Ran into a similar problem, had my deck level in all directions, but looked off because the other deck was off.
Concrete introduces moisture and rot. Better off doing 48" holes, and setting on a concrete cookie then filling with pee rock. That's how I did mine and it has no movement and will drain.
Just a few thoughts here from one DIY guy to another, as we all help each other out - right? I’ve seen both parts. These are not criticisms, just some tips: • Always build UP. In other words, prep your area first - pull the sod, pour proper concrete footings into sono tubes, lay down the weed barrier, cover the weed barrier with aggregate (gravel/pea gravel). Then you are ready to rock. • After framing, add your reinforcement bolts and joist hangers THEN, so you aren’t crawling around under a planked deck adding those later. Cheers mate. 👍
I like this simple no none sense approach on how to build a deck. I want to build my own deck someday but watching some of the other videos left me wondering should I, thank for making it simple.
Bro, EVERY SINGLE project I have lined up you have done it already. Your approach is excellent, I like your attitude and your presentation style is on point. I am happy I subscribed weeks ago. Gonna check your channel to see if I missed anything. THANK.
One thing I've learned is never cement wood in the ground. What you should have done is made cement pillars, then made a U-holder from steel and attach the posts off the cement thru the u-holder so that the wood never touches the dirt or cement top. this will bring 15-20 more years of enjoyable use without rot. the way you are cementing the posts in the ground will last max 5 years before you'll have to dig everything up again and start replacing rotting posts.
Overall nice job. You should not just use screws to hold the joists to the posts. These will shear off with too much load ruining your work. You should always put the posts under the joists for support and add a hanger to hold them in place underneath. We had a deck on a two story home that was built the same way and the entire deck sheared off the outer posts and caved in. Luckily, we had not been using it and I had already planned to replace it.
I noticed one thing it a trick i used to build decks ; i use kilzs at the bottom of 4x4 in the ground to the top of level about 3 to 4 inches above the ground also for extra strength i put clip at the end of every stud plus inner and outter corner brackets and I use leg bolts and washers counter reassessed in to the wood corners and every joist in between. The end results will be totally stronger ive built many decks in my career just sharing tricks I used weather big or small decks in from New Orleans so I know a thing or 2 about hurricanes myself ; but I love watching you build and learned a lot more ideas from you thanks just thought I trying to give back Keep building brother my name is Allen
Hey man I’m a fan of your work and inventiveness but for this build I’d definitely listen to some of the advice on here and do a follow up on how to improve on this construction based on standard deck building techniques. You gotta understand that you will have a lot of people taking this video as a howto and will copy your build so for structures that people and children will be standing on you have more responsibility to do your homework that it will be safe. For furniture and decorative outdoor stuff it’s not a big deal but for structures like this I have a higher bar. Learn from this and follow up with another video on what you could do better next time. Keep up the good work.
@@BinarySecond screws into end grain, no joist hangers ,the posts are not UNDER the things there supposed to be. the entire angled section is basically free floating, the one post he did put under there is sitting on the grass, single rim joists...............
"As a nonretired carpenter" , My new entertainment is visiting these videos and looking at the comments from the "contractors". No matter how good something is built, there are always a few that start with "I am a contractor for many years blah blah blah" continue by always coming up with their "better" way of doing things and suggestions, and then conclude "but great job though" after basically insulting the work.. Some of these guys I'm sure you could say to them " you live on planet earth" and the response would be "no, from my experience from many years of being a carpenter, I live on planet earth"
Not gonna lie, that looks amazing, but it always makes me laugh when I see a video DIY and you have all these fancy tools, saws etc :D When usually people who watch this have like a hammer and hand saw and a sand paper :D
Oh My Gosh! I LOVE IT ALREADY!!! Seeing the deck, Really Makes Me Smile! 😊😋😁 & I was feeling down today. Thank You For Sharing Your Beautiful BEAUTIFUL Work/Love that which you do So, SO WELL👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🤘🤙🙌👐
Just a heads up for future builds all the deck screws I've come across have been for non-structural applications, I.e., screwing down the deck boards but not the structural frame underneath. My understanding is that the reason for this is that they are made out of too-hard steel that doesn't have enough give, whereas nails, lags, and structural screws are made of softer steel that has a much higher shear strength. The proper structural screws also tend to have washer heads instead of flatheads, so they are far less likely to pull through the lumber.
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for your feedback on this video. I addressed as much of the concern as I could in the next video. See PART TWO of the finished deck here: th-cam.com/video/Me6UX5nszrk/w-d-xo.html
I like the way you work
You are, obviously, a DIY Guy! So learning is part of the experience. I know you took a lot of heat for the design (I personally chose to not call you out), but it showed what a real man you are to go back and make the necessary corrections to have a safe and awesome deck for years to come! :)
DIY Creators Hi, where in Florida are you located? And do you or do you know someone who could make a deck for me? I thought it would be easier lol
Not bashing but you should really think about removing this video. This was your first video I watched and it immediately discredited your other DIY projects in my mind. I went and browsed your other videos and they look great but you know what they say about first impressions... Don’t let your other great work be discredited by this safety hazard. Where I take issue with this video is safety concerns of people building a deck in this manner. Here’s and example I lived: My house had a 6’ elevated deck of similar construction built before I bought the place. Rim joists were screwed into the 4x4 posts with 5, 3”-4” screws and all the joist were then screwed into the rim joists without hangers. This made a single point of failure of the 5 screws from the rim joist into the 4x4. They fail and the whole deck crashes down! Enough added weight from people and it was only a matter of time that it would fail. The first thing I did after moving in was add lag bolts to all the 4x4 rim joists. When doing this, i found that 2 of the 5 screws had already rusted and failed. I ultimately had to tear down that old because of safety concerns and rebuild it. You have great DIY videos so thank you for those! You should consider retiring this video though.
New viewer here live in florida too I want a floating deck can you do mines? I would actually like a gazebo built on it as well down the line.
A lot of comments are saying the deck was built wrong. He used 2x8s way overkill, supports should be every 8 feet, 2x6 supports every 6 feet, 2x4 supports every 4 feet. The duck tape good idea in a hot and wet climate. I would have used cement blocks to support the deck, on top of some crushed stone, buried as necessary to level the deck.No wood touching the ground. No joist hangers needed, sill plate would be good to keep everything lined up. I would have used 2x6s for decking, much cheaper or PT deck boards, everything PT. 2x6 decking only needs 24'" spacing on joists. I built a ground level deck in Maine, ground is like hardpan, cement block on ground surface, 2x4 sub structure, joist hangers only where absolutely necessary. 2x6 decking, some 2x4s were doubled for extra strength. substructure was solid and strong. Maine does not have a problem with earthquakes, tornados or termites and hurricanes are quite rare. Come visit Maine vacationland.
@Hello Steve how are you doing
The JIG to hold the joist was genius. Great job! Very creative.
Right! It’s little tricks like that I probably get too excited about finding out lol
Good work man! My father and I have been building decks like this for many years and they are rock solid even without joist hangers. We use 3 inch screws on all the structure and we overbuild it with extra cross bracing just to be sure. The decks are still standing 10-20 years later and we saved lots of money not bothering with the expensive hangers, brackets and lag bolts.
That’s how you should do it I say jefe. I do that up here in Yosemite.
Thoughts on ventilation for ground deck. Wife wants an ipe deck but concerned about lack of 18 inch recommended ventilation.
I think your little girl’s help made a big difference in your project 🥰. I am in Florida as well and I do worry about creatures making a home under any structure …
I love all your projects because most folks need help building their own skills to improve their knowledge of home projects!👍
Shouldn't the deck frame be bolted to the support posts ? (Large deck bolts with washers )... and cut a notch out on one side of the top of the support post the width of the joist board for the joists to sit on and deep enough for the joist to be flush with the top of the support post?
@Hello Len how are you doing
I am glad to see that I am not the only person who sometimes works inefficiently just so I have less to think about at any given stage - thank you!
Where’s your video dickhead?
@@stevedavid2468 is it needed to offend the way you do it? I believe that the video is posted knowing that the viewers will leave a comment about this. And the job done is bad. We all know it, did you know it? .. Does it make you feel better to call “dickhead” to Brian while he is right about his comment? I just think that you head thinks about dicks all the time bro.
You are not a good person.
Love your voice! Uk carpenter respecting your work!
Nice. One recommendation (may have already been mentioned) for anyone doing this or for you next time. I would strongly recommend putting your main beams or at least a few joists on top of a post instead of screwing in from the side. If you really don't want to do that then I'd recommend at a minimum using carriage bolts all the way through your 4x4s and supports. I wouldn't even use lag screws let alone the 4 inch deck screws you used. They'll be loose as soon as the wood shrinks a little and they just don't have the shear strength to support the deck. Not a terribly dangerous situation since the deck is so low, but if this was a 2nd story deck it would be quite dangerous.
yes i agree with lag bolts to support the weight of people
i like
Yes I totally agree. At minimum the posts should be thru bolted and there should be joist hangers. This deck has essentially no structure. The entire weight of the deck and anything/anyone on it is being held by the screws that attach the 4x4 posts. That won't be safe (or pass code anywhere) and it won't last long. This deck is high enough off the ground that you could have had proper support beams under the joists instead of having all the weight hanging on the post fasteners.
yup, I cant beelive what I saw in the video
From Sydney, Australia. Thanks for explaining things so simply. Much appreciated!
Is the only thing connecting the posts to the joists just a few perpendicular screws? Surely that's not strong enough!
I agree. Rebating the posts, so the deck bearers sit on top of the posts will give maximum support.
An alternative we use in Australia are galvanised steel stirrups, set into concrete footings. No ground moisture up to the bearers & joists.
Also, if setting wooden posts in concrete, fill the holes with concrete, and screed a slight cone on top, just above ground level. This allows water to run off outwards away from the timber.
That deck, otherwise, looks great. I love the angled face. Look forward to Part 2.
Goodonyamate 🇦🇺
Yeah screws are good against draw out but not so great with shearing forces.
Wow! If building house was just frame wall and with squares any one can build it. Really surprise how some one with so many subscribers can go ahead just building to grow channel more. No no no!,,
@@johnrap7203 Yeah same here in Canada. Best bet is to use a plate sitting on top of a footing
You did not watch the whole series, part 2. SMH
so many gold nuggets of wisdom in this video. THANKYOU!
Wow. Thank you for posting this. After watching this I noticed so many mistakes that I was making and your video really helped me to go back and fix everything and it made my work so much easier. Thank you
I live in Austin Texas I watch your show all the time you guys are badass I just love y'all your work is beautiful Sharon works
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
When u build, you stack the load. Fasteners hold things together. They don’t support weight. If he wanted to do the build the same way; he needs carriage bolts. The best way to build a deck is to have a beam running along the post with a post to joist bracket. Then put the joist on top of the beam or secure to the beam with joist hangers
This is a surface deck... While I understand the need to utilize carriage bolts rather than screws, beams add just another 6 inches of depth you would have to use in addition to the 6 inches of joist width. I have the same predicament. I 'm not going to dig down under the ground to support the joists. What's your solution?
@@avilandafear6502 Notch the 4x4 post out so that you can slide the band joists in on both sides and then you can run carriage bolts through both of them. Eliminates 6” of height and gives you vertical strength
@@bradd6376 This was the comment I was looking for as screws holding the frame to the post can, when load is applied, 'slide down' and the deck will drop. Also even though the wood is, in the UK we call it tanilised, a wood treatment to protect the wood outside, but no matter how much protection the wood has, if its resting on the floor or ground it will suck up moisture and go rotten. Landscaper with 25 years experience.
Exactly right, Brad. I hate to see people build this way.
Hello, i liked your video as I am looking to build a deck myself, but i was wondering how do or where i need to go on the lowes website to get the lowes deck design. Appreciate your advice
@Hello Eduar how are you doing
Interesting build coming from the NE. My only comment would be always put your deck ON the vertical support/4x4 pier. You never want to attach your rim or joist to the side of a vertical if possible.
Logical build, good job.
Nice job !! Thanks for sharing!! People need to know how important it is to make sure there framing is squared. Nicely done .
Pro Tip: Just dump the dry concrete into the hole. It will setup from the moisture in the ground. And try to make sure none of the wood from the steps sits on the ground or it will rot. Putting some gravel/rock under it will ensure it will dry out. Otherwise it will sit in the moist dirt and rot prematurely .
I see Zero Locates. It’s Always important to call in locates before digging. Especially on the easement which Utilities Run.
No joist hangers or ledger strip? Hmmm.
Yeah this wont last long
@@lesterludtke227 screw it
What about the size of screws? Tiny, they cannot hold load....
Handi-Block HBLK Concrete Deck Pier, With these you set these at the corners and anywhere in between and they cradle two by lumber. No screws or straps needed.
How do you know how many blocks to use? My deck is 12x16
Note: Don’t use deck screws to attach joists. Deck screws do not have sufficient shear strength. Use galvanized nails at 1 per 2” (so an 8” joist gets 4 nails)
If the structure needs to flex in high winds the nails will flex and bend vs screws break in half under stress. *Custom home builders daughter.
On one hand you’re absolutely right, because on the other hand there are joist-rated screws that are allowed by code in some regions, but he wasn’t using them here.
I'm also building a 48x17 deck, and new to it as well. From my research, deck screws are about as useful as drywall screw. Cheap, heads will pop off, really only should be used for screw deck boards/trex in. Otherwise, borrow or rent a nail gun and use hot dipped galvanized nails and actual structural screws.
Nail gun is going to save hours of work, and you end up with a very strong structure that will fail gracefully as nails will bend vs catastrophic snapping/failure of deck screws.
Yes you can use deck screws as done here when the frame is properly supported, however the minimal cost is minimal if you take into account the value you place on your family/friends, resale value. Or if you have a Permitting guy who's going to Inspect...
I’ve also built all my decks screwing in the side using chunky screws with impact drivers, it ain’t going nowhere! The joint is pulled VERY tightly together using impact drivers so I think this adds to the shear strength.
I like the design but the weak point is the posts. The posts need to be set in the concrete up to ground level, else they rot due to the water exposure.
I was going to comment the same. PT wood (even ground contact certified) should still be raised off the ground sitting on a proper footing like a landscaping block.
Wait. I'm a bit lost. What di you mean "up to ground level"? I know of ground certified wood though
@@potatopotatoeOG in the UK we have a practice of setting the wooden posts in concrete if they are below ground level. Stops the wood from being exposed to moisture. It's almost what he did but the mai difference is that we don't back fill with soil, we pour the concrete in until it comes to ground level.
Here in Durban, South Africa, we have a similar climate to Florida. We do the same as Glen did with his treated posts and they take at least 10 to 15 years before moisture starts to ruin them.
I agree.
An alternative we use in Australia are galvanised steel stirrups, set into concrete footings. No ground moisture up to the bearers & joists.
Or, if setting wooden posts in concrete, fill the holes with concrete, and screed a slight cone on top, just above ground level. This allows water to run off outwards away from the timber.
That deck, otherwise, looks great. I love the angled face. Look forward to Part 2.
Goodonyamate 🇦🇺
really great video and informative
Sure wish the InterNet was around 45 years ago when I was building my house! Lots of good tips!
How did the decision to just put the fabric on top of the grass? Any updates now 4 years later? Anything you would do differently?
There are always going to be critics that swear that their way is the best. Nevertheless, don't stop making these awesome videos. Subscribed.
Love the idea and the build up simple as it possible... big up from Mozambique.
The only thing holding the weight of the deck are screws. The main board should be on top of the 4x4.
You're right on this whole structure doesn't have any solid support. I would never allow wood to touch the ground on any structure build here in California.
I saw this, and i dont think its correctable at this point. Im super rusty but im thinking he should have notched a 6x6 post that is set above ground on a cement footing to hold two 2x6s sandwiched together then ran the joists over the top or tied into with some simpsons. I always confuse decks with patio roof frames.
...good job .. the only thing I would add is that screws are great for tensile strength but nails are much better for shear ... therefore nails are preferred for floor joists
Now ..... This Is How you do an informative video! This is one of the best ones I've viewed!
I learned something new, thanks for sharing. Clamps and block for spacing joist. I'm buying clamps
I’ve watched about 30 deck videos and this is the first brother I’ve seen building a deck. ✊🏽
@@dustindavis2740 wtf is that supposed to mean
wtf does color have to do with anything.
He never seen a brother working before @@StevenMcNew-p4n
Enjoyed the build and commentary. There are some good tips in the comments by peeps who have built commercially and you will know next time, but in reality you prob have 5 years of enjoyment. So close to ground, No danger if something rots. And when it drops it will only be a little. I have told soooo many people who 'ask how did you?' That 'with the internet there is no excuse for not knowing how, why, when, where. You can read 'how' on YT and 'what' in the building code and if you work with a lumber house they will tell you how best to use their products. Looking forward to more!
Oops, meant to say another thing is the sanding and grinding probably removes the insect / rot protection . It is very shallow. Use copper sulfate or something for protection on all sanded, or cut surfaces. Yes even ends of cut lumber. Maybe take a look at This old house,on YT
I've never seen a deck screwed to the sides of support posts instead of sitting on them. I don't think I'd follow this: this means the entire load is supported by the screws instead of the posts.
Yeah its not to code but with no roof load and only being 1ft off the ground it'll be fine (provided the screws are rated for outdoor use)
In you insist on mounting to the posts this way, at least use 1/2-inch carriage bolts rather than just the screws.
Tru dat
UnTwisted Truth I made my deck like this and I used lots of support posts in the ground, ever moved!🤘😱🤷🏻♂️
Walking on it is fine, it's not like he's driving a 1 ton pickup onto it...
I built a deck also, but you be the man.
Much better than mine!
@Hello Michael how are you doing
Looks like it's going to be a great deck. But there are 2 issues that may or may not become problems in the future. First, deck screws are not designed for shear loads. I would have used joist hangers with nails. Second, surrounding word posts with concrete without some sort of barrier between the 2 can cause the wood to rot prematurely. This is caused by the concrete naturally retains water.
Absolutely. The wood needed some DPC wrapped around them and stapled and joist hangers as you say.
@@SteS what is DPC?
@@pilotandy_com Damp Proof Course. Basically a moisture barrier...steel, stone, concrete and such. Should be able to withstand the load of the deck.
@Hello Michael how are you doing
It is so good to see that some people know the importance of moisture barrier underneath flooring. Most American builders are so ignorant of the fundamental fact that moisture is the worst enemy to all structures. And moisture breeds mold and rotting.
Put your 2 outside runners together. Pull layout 16" from one end. Your tape should have every 16" highlighted. The way you did it if your board was short or proud your layout will be off more and more as you go.
Everyone uses a wheelbarrow to mix cement and I don't have space to store one. Never thought to use one of those plastic tubs! Also, that jig to hold the joists was clever. Thanks for the info!
Hey Bro, shout out from New Zealand, appreciate the generosity regarding info sharing. Churr bro
That is very nice I want the list of the material used if possible Thank you
Deck screws into end grain? Here in So.FLA, that 'might' last for two seasons -- max.
same for the ground posts unprotected into soil. that would rot through in 2 years here in germany
@@hansmuller4338 Why you want to bury it underground in first place. I usually lay concrete slab or block on those places where come support post. And build deck above them, no need to dig, no need to worry about moisture from ground.
@@mr.wizeguy8995 my first house, built in 1998 in Virginia had a rear floating deck about 4.5 ft off the ground, 10X10. The vertical support beams were pretreated 6x6s buried maybe 9 inches into the dirt, with no footing or gravel base of any kind. The two support beams away from the house rotted through last year. I moved into the house in 2007. So they lasted at least 11 years, surprisingly. They could have been original, so maybe almost 20 years old. Not saying I'm in favor of burying wood. I was just surprised that this is how this builder built a deck in the 90s. I imagine even back then builders were worried about moisture. Maybe a cost savings decision by the builder.
@@willywonkabar I have deck in my backyard it's at least 20 year old it's resting on few concrete pavers that have been laid over ground. Wood is pressure treated and deck is in really good condition.
In west Texas, there are houses with floor joists on the ground. This is just a deck, not a house. Should be good for a few years at least
Great video!
@Hello How are you doing dear
Really liked the idea of the joist holder jig, GREAT IDEA!!!
With applying the weed barrier on top of the grass, does the remaining grass just die off and then nothing to worry about?
Well done. Being in N Central Florida myself, I would prefer my post be above ground level. On mine I use a tube formed post at least 6” above ground level with a Simpson anchor for the 4x4. Hopefully yours is rot free for many many years.
Question: How would this apply to say a fence post? Those are in the ground similarly to the video
Good work, just built a 16 X 16 like this. Perfect
Man, the effort you put in this project is priceless but unfortunately is not the right way to build a deck.
The whole process is wrong and there is no way you would be able to pass inspection
Its Florida! No Fucks Given!
@@newbiecam 😂
You actually want a very very small run in your decking so rain rolls off and water doesn’t sit on it as it would if it was completely level
@@franciscoybighartson8854thanks- that makes sense
such an efficient way to do the piles. build first then position piles. thanks for the tips
I have appreciation for your effort. However as long as your deck is only for looks, it should be safe. If you want to have people stand on it then you probably should have the posts or part under the joists rather then screwed in. Bolts would be better but still would not provide the strength needed as they too can rip through the wood. Luckily the deck is ground level so the fall isn't as hazardous as if it were higher in the air. Good job though! I learned the hard way and just sharing and not intending to be rude or critical. I would suggest having 4 posts or cement footings (two in front and two in back in about 2 feet from the edge of the deck) positioned horizontal to each other with support beams (10 inch wide) running the length and attached on TOP of the post or footings. Then the joists crossing the supprt beams vertical.
This was the comment I was looking for 🤣
I want to build a deck but the right way. Can you please inform me of the right bolts that I would need? Mine is also going to be ground-level and this length/width Thanks in advance.
Nice job getting ready to build on my property in Desolation Wilderness in Northern California. Going to build a 12 x16 deck to hold a 12x14 wall tent. Any suggestions? Figure I can ad deck space in front of wall tent later
All the weight is hanging on the screws.
Once everything is fastened together, it's probably ok, except where the joists attach to the posts. I would definitely use lag screws or lag bolts there, at least.
Not really it is resting wood bound.
Unbelievable what man can do! Fantastic!
I think deck blocks would have been easier and stronger. No need to dig holes at all.
How stronger? They only sit on a shallow amount of gravel don't they?
Wow your so good at your demonstrations. I think I could do this following your instructions, thanks .
You are an artist over all you are a such an amazing builder ! And so good way to record and edit this 2 big videos !!! Congratulations for getting done your entirely project !!!
If isp
I just came here because I see Florida in the background...nice project by the way.
I had just finished my TH-cam playlist and then this was uploaded I can’t wait to see what you do with this project! 😊
Nice deck man! Im doing a similar project. My only concern is the wood touching the ground. Over time it can rot.
love it... the jigs are great idea, thank you for sharing!
I saw and thought how have I never thought of something like that?
Looks good but how much for total build
@Hello Hung how are you doing
@@lydialas8756 good thanks and you?
@@TheCykotik81 I'm good thanks I hope we can get to know each other and can you suggest a way we can talk off here if you dont mind
All the years of collecting clamps have prepared me for this
Good video with a lot of hints, thanks.
What is the thickness of the wood plates you used?
Thank you. I learn a lot from videos like this. You make it look so easy.
No joist hangers, no concrete under the posts, and screwing into end-grain? Yikes!
My (admittedly) minimal understanding was that I thought you were supposed to put landscaping pebbles under the post for drainage, as concrete under the posts would lead to water retention and rot?
@@swamijie Right - You would use a sonotube and pour concrete below grade. Your deck sits on the concrete.
Joist hangers are a joke.
It’s in part 2
@@davesilvia9711 still building code tho
Built a similar style deck off of a raised deck that was built by previous owner. Ran into a similar problem, had my deck level in all directions, but looked off because the other deck was off.
Concrete introduces moisture and rot. Better off doing 48" holes, and setting on a concrete cookie then filling with pee rock. That's how I did mine and it has no movement and will drain.
do concrete cookies have chocolate chips in them?
@@T.E.P. no, just gravel.
Lot of good tips in this video. Soil looks amazing too.
On a positive note, I liked how he did the cosmetic fix on that angled corner.
Any chance you can list all the materials you used? With the size of all the lumber?
Just a few thoughts here from one DIY guy to another, as we all help each other out - right? I’ve seen both parts. These are not criticisms, just some tips:
• Always build UP. In other words, prep your area first - pull the sod, pour proper concrete footings into sono tubes, lay down the weed barrier, cover the weed barrier with aggregate (gravel/pea gravel). Then you are ready to rock.
• After framing, add your reinforcement bolts and joist hangers THEN, so you aren’t crawling around under a planked deck adding those later.
Cheers mate. 👍
@Hello Christian how are you doing
I like this simple no none sense approach on how to build a deck. I want to build my own deck someday but watching some of the other videos left me wondering should I, thank for making it simple.
DO NOT follow this video. you will waste a lot of time and money.
Bro, EVERY SINGLE project I have lined up you have done it already. Your approach is excellent, I like your attitude and your presentation style is on point.
I am happy I subscribed weeks ago. Gonna check your channel to see if I missed anything. THANK.
i wouldn’t put to many people on it, might not collapse but it will def sag over time
The wood you cemented into ground, it will not rot?
Dude, joist hangers.
what the different between using joist hangers instead just screw it in to the wood? I am just curious
Jeffrey W joist hangers are stronger and give it will give the base longevity, this will end up failing after a period of time
@@jeffreyw8752 I eliminate using joist hangers by building beams for the joist to rest on.
@@joekind1do the beams rest on the posts?
One thing I've learned is never cement wood in the ground. What you should have done is made cement pillars, then made a U-holder from steel and attach the posts off the cement thru the u-holder so that the wood never touches the dirt or cement top. this will bring 15-20 more years of enjoyable use without rot. the way you are cementing the posts in the ground will last max 5 years before you'll have to dig everything up again and start replacing rotting posts.
Overall nice job. You should not just use screws to hold the joists to the posts. These will shear off with too much load ruining your work. You should always put the posts under the joists for support and add a hanger to hold them in place underneath. We had a deck on a two story home that was built the same way and the entire deck sheared off the outer posts and caved in. Luckily, we had not been using it and I had already planned to replace it.
I noticed one thing it a trick i used to build decks ; i use kilzs at the bottom of 4x4 in the ground to the top of level about 3 to 4 inches above the ground also for extra strength i put clip at the end of every stud plus inner and outter corner brackets and I use leg bolts and washers counter reassessed in to the wood corners and every joist in between. The end results will be totally stronger ive built many decks in my career just sharing tricks I used weather big or small decks in from New Orleans so I know a thing or 2 about hurricanes myself ; but I love watching you build and learned a lot more ideas from you thanks just thought I trying to give back
Keep building brother my name is Allen
You guys are so freakin' smart. I'm amazed at this kinda stuff. Well done.
Whats the reason you opted out of using joint brackets?
Hey man I’m a fan of your work and inventiveness but for this build I’d definitely listen to some of the advice on here and do a follow up on how to improve on this construction based on standard deck building techniques. You gotta understand that you will have a lot of people taking this video as a howto and will copy your build so for structures that people and children will be standing on you have more responsibility to do your homework that it will be safe. For furniture and decorative outdoor stuff it’s not a big deal but for structures like this I have a higher bar. Learn from this and follow up with another video on what you could do better next time. Keep up the good work.
Did you watch part 2?
Đông Tà I just watched part 2. Looks great!
Good job my brother. Using good common sense. About to do a deck like that myself
I hope those weren't deck screws being used to hang the joists.....
Have you build any metallic frame for WPC DECK?
Love your common sense approach to this. Thanks for the video man. Looks like it will turn out nice! Getting me motivated to tackle my own deck. 😎😎
how do you adjust the structure if it is not square? any video showing the process?
First I love the videos, but as someone who built decks for a living this would never meet code at least here in Iowa.
Or anywhere.
Could you gives some reasons why? I'm super curious!
@@BinarySecond screws into end grain, no joist hangers ,the posts are not UNDER the things there supposed to be. the entire angled section is basically free floating, the one post he did put under there is sitting on the grass, single rim joists...............
@@Belg1970 I think it's a result of misinformation and poor planning
@@potatopotatoeOG Maybe he watched a TH-cam video??? LOL
what size joists are used? what tools are needed? where and how many 4x4 supports are needed? great video but not enough information
"As a nonretired carpenter" , My new entertainment is visiting these videos and looking at the comments from the "contractors". No matter how good something is built, there are always a few that start with "I am a contractor for many years blah blah blah" continue by always coming up with their "better" way of doing things and suggestions, and then conclude "but great job though" after basically insulting the work.. Some of these guys I'm sure you could say to them " you live on planet earth" and the response would be "no, from my experience from many years of being a carpenter, I live on planet earth"
bonjour à vous c'est quoi que vous utiliser pour l'assemblage bois, la partie en plastique avec les serres joints, merci de votre réponse
What a project my man! Can't wait for part 2!
Wow. I looked up raised patio decks and there you where. Thank you!!!
Not gonna lie, that looks amazing, but it always makes me laugh when I see a video DIY and you have all these fancy tools, saws etc :D When usually people who watch this have like a hammer and hand saw and a sand paper :D
Great job! Any reason why you did not remove the grass under the deck?
Oh My Gosh! I LOVE IT ALREADY!!! Seeing the deck, Really Makes Me Smile! 😊😋😁 & I was feeling down today. Thank You For Sharing Your Beautiful BEAUTIFUL Work/Love that which you do So, SO WELL👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🤘🤙🙌👐
Just a heads up for future builds all the deck screws I've come across have been for non-structural applications, I.e., screwing down the deck boards but not the structural frame underneath. My understanding is that the reason for this is that they are made out of too-hard steel that doesn't have enough give, whereas nails, lags, and structural screws are made of softer steel that has a much higher shear strength. The proper structural screws also tend to have washer heads instead of flatheads, so they are far less likely to pull through the lumber.