Wish I had watched this video sooner. I built my system and had followed a similar build from online that used a DIM rail AC Miniature Circuit Breaker with enclosure. Following that example nearly caused a serious injury. The DIM rail AC Miniature Circuit Breaker was faulty and allowed current to flow from the solar panels into the system all the while installation was in progress. And yes the wire posted had been checked after installation and failed after install. So bottom line always check your electrical post, be safe and enjoy. Thanks Nate your videos are gold.
Our first addition to our system after adding a GameChanger3. I used to race in the sport compact class. The first rule of thumb when adding performance products was to upgrade brake. This device is the corollary to brakes. Plan to add close to 800 w more power in a second array.
Thanks for the technique on stripping solar wire. The 10 gauge wire is kind of unique The two tool method helps prevent losing any wire strands. Thank you both for sourcing and distributing these kits. Cheers.
Good catch! Yeah, the solar wire sure does have a burly insulation on it that the self-adjusting strippers cant cut through, so I score it with the other strippers and then use the self-adjusters to pull it off the copper. Thanks for tuning in!
Can these isolator switches be used for positive wires only? I have 4 different arrays, so instead of needing an 8pole set up of switches, can i run all negatives to a bus bar/bypass the switch, and have all 4 array positives go into the switch so i can isolate all 4 with 1 switch? Hope that makes sense. I'm very limited on space so only having 1 switch would be ideal
Grounding Question: We have the solar isolator as described in the RV as a master cut off that comes from the PV wires from a PV combiner box . The PV combiner box is roof mounted (4 strings, surge protective device, 50A DC breaker). The PV combiner box also has a cable gland for a ground wire and connector inside the box (from the SPD). Should we run a ground wire from the PV combiner box to the RV chassis frame? Thanks.
With the "breaker" style disconnect you talk about in your video, you mention that if they are hooked up backwards there is potential for fire, etc. How can you tell which way to hook these up correctly?
I noticed at the 1:50 mark that it looks like there are cracks under the lower mounting screws. Is this a common issue with these components? I don’t want to worry about long term quality, but this seems like the best product available that I’ve researched.
It's not an issue, no. This is our 'testing' isolator and has really been beat up. You'll never abuse your isolator like we do in the shop while making these videos and during R&D. 😂🤣
hi. great vid. question, i was using dc mini switches not just for the on/off but also the tripping functionality, if a surge came, it would hopefully pop them. do the isolators have that "fuse breaker" functionality or just on/off with the knob? is that something you'd want?
There is no way a solar panel can produce a 'surge' shy of high-line wires falling on the array or a lightning strike, both of which would likely destroy either a breaker or a switch. So no... under normal operation, a breaker in the location of the isolator cannot function as overcurrent protection.
Could a faulty charge controller not put the full capacity of the battery on the conductors from the panels? The overcurrent protections is needed to protect the conductors from overheating.
Cool video Nate! Three questions, I have 10 panels going to 10 MPPT's, does this mean I need 5 isolators? Do these provide circuit protection like a CB? Last, why no ferrules?
Thanks for explaining that. Although the dedicated switch is smaller, it's still quite unnecessarily bulky considering the simple switching it does. Are there any more-compact solutions or is it possible to use the old solution with breakers in a much-smaller enclosure or without an enclosure assuming it would be properly protected by a non-conductive DIY cover? So many of the solar electronics components and modules *seem* as if they were designed with only residential applications in mind where space is not a premium. I think there's a worthwhile market for solar equipment that isn't so bulky where not necessary and I hope companies will start to engineer more products specifically for mobile applications or at least are compact that serve both mobile and residential applications well.
If I had a solution that was smaller, you can rest assured that I would have chosen that one instead. I'm always on the lookout for better/smaller parts, and a smaller disconnect that still has the needed ratings is definitely on the list.
I want to use the previous breaker box and use 2 pole breaker that you recommended. I'd also like to add another 2 pole disconnect in the box, as a battery isolator to stop current exiting batteries to loads. I'm guessing the other box will be better/is rated for that sort of thing. I have 4 x 12V x 100ah lithium. 24v series. Will have to find a breaker appropriate for batteries.
Thx a lot Nate, you're quite an hero in many ways. got the newest EG4 18K-PV which doesn't need a combiner box and I'm also going to use Discover AES 42-48-6650 (4 of them) 2 per string hooked up to a T-class fuse "each string" do I need anything else?
I am planning a small array of panels (6X400 watts) with enphase IQ8 plus microinverters, can I use this isolator right after the Q cable before carrying the power to the house and the panel, can it be used for AC current? Thanks. There will be a disconnect before the main panel.
So I am setting up a "medium sized" RV solar install. I did a simple setup by just replacing the existing lead acid batteries with 2 SOK 206ah batteries all in the exisitng battery box. I also replaced the existing charge controller with a lithium programable one. Since then I have also added a DC to DC charger to run off the alternator. Haven't installed any solar panels yet, to be 800 watts on 2 mppt controlers.. So far so good, no conflicts in the system. Of course I only use shore power or generator when the coach is not in motion. I have been looking at those fancy Victron Multiplus things but I already have the charge converter. Do I need to concerned with power coming into the batteries form both solar and the shore power? or say the DC to DC while driving and the solar panels? Is there some other device which would automatically switch between solar and some other source? Basicly they system is controller manually so I was thinking of the solar disconnect would also do the job. But its dummy proof. And I am a dummy. ps: I did a search but probably don't know the proper terminology. If you already have a vid on this I apologize. I did look but didn't see anything.
Say you have two arrays of 4 panels each going to two separate MPPT charge controllers and you want the ability to isolate the arrays individually…Array #1 and Array #2 this box won’t do that. Would need two boxes. Wouldn’t a battery master cutofff switch work just as well with “1, 2, Both, Off” to accomplish the isolation of each array, having both on and having both off? Can those type switches not handle the higher open circuit voltages from Solar? Thanks!
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
Nice video. I just bought a portable solar generator and want to buy solar panels to charge it. I would like to have at least 2 charging points coming from the same solar panels. Are there are any "distribution boxes" or something of the sort that will allow me run cables from the solar panels to different rooms and allow me change which charging point is active at any given time?
Hello Nate, I have 4 x 310 watt panels wired in parrallel going to a Victron 150/85 mppt charge controller. Max voltage input is 40 volts and approx 31 amps input, what would you recommwnd as the size of fuse/circuit breaker prior to the solar isolator as I would prefer a circuit breaker over a fuse for convinience etc?
Hay Nate, Quick question. can i use this switch lets say to isolate a B2B charger (victron 12/12/30 DC-DC)/ so 2 birds with 1 stone??? one side would be solar array, other side B2B charger? Reason i am asking cos it exceeds both the solar controller (Victron 100/50A) and the B2B charger ratings if there is any 64A model. Thanks, Greg
Dave, as you formery used the fuses as disconnect, my question is still were to place the disconnect? From my feeling I would place it near the solar array.
Regardless of if you use a breaker or this switch as the disconnect, it would go next to the charge controller. If you array needs actual fusing, those would be on the positive wire coming from each of the positive wires coming from the solar branch connector.
Nate, The isolator is rated for 63A, is that for the entire switch or for each pole connection in the switch? The reason for my question is that the way I was planning on wiring my two arrays in parallel would total 66A, with two controllers. I am trying to avoid using series because of any shading which may occur on the panels resulting less output for the whole array. Also if the max for the switch is a total of 63A, does that translate to 31.5A for each side of the switch or can the amps vary for each side, one being more than 31.5A and the other side being less than 31.5A? Do you have access to their 100 amp version from the manufacturer. The information I have found is limited.
Hey Nate I have 4-100 watt solar panels and a Victron 100/30 charge controller and one 12 volt lead acid battery should I wire the panels in series or parallel?
Hi, I see a few simple battery disconnect big red switch used for solar cutoff, I guess there would be an advantage tu using this solar isolator instead of those switches ?
@EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers Theoretically yes but having two of them would occupy more room than it needs to. Currently I am looking at a plastic box like your old design that accomodates three double din breakers.
How do you connect "hot wires" to the isolator (panels already mounted on the roof and connected)? Do you cover the panels when making connection or use precautious when making connection or you do something else? Thanks
Greetings Nate & Steph ! You’ve ‘endorsed’ the use of ferrules in other segments. Would they be ill-advised on this component ? Since your earlier vids referencing ferrules, I have quite an assortment stockpiled … Luv you Two for what you do ! 😊
Hey Nate. You've helped me a lot with my RV setup over the past half year or so - definitely couldn't have done it without your expertise, I really appreciate it. Do you know of any good videos (or will you be covering it and making your own?) that cover the actual process of mounting solar panels to the roof of a van or RV? It seems to get glanced over in any of the guides that I watch; maybe that means it's common knowledge and doesn't really need to be covered, but I'm totally in the dark about it and am a little intimidated. Are there specific mounting systems that I should be looking into? Do they have names? Or do all solar panels come with their or brackets that I simply follow the directions to use? Do I have to mount them into the frame of the RV? Anything you might be able to share to get me going on this last part of my project? Edit: Sorry Nate I see you already made the video: "DESIGNING & BUILDING A ROOF RACK (to hold 580W of solar)" I'll give that another watch and see what I can learn.
Thank you for your comment I was wondering the same thing I don't want to drill into a motorhome roof. And I'm a little bit in the dark on the best ways to put on solar panels hopefully I can find that video.
Hey Nate. Solar isolators are required by code for residential or commercial terrestrial solar installation where there are obvious grounding issues. The bulky solar isolator seems to be over kill for an RV. In an RV isn't a DC cutoff switch on the positive wire from the solar panels to the controller enough to provide solar isolation? That is the recommendation from AM Solar, who have been building RV solar installations since 1987.
I'm always going to err on the side of more conservative/safety (because of those residential codes you mention). There's no reason not to. I can't base my videos on things that "seem" to be overkill. That would be irresponsible of me. The RV industry has garbage codes that were written way back in the day when RV manufacturers were trying to do the least possible with no regard for property conservation in terms of fire.
Hi Nate. Thanks for the work and detail you put in your videos. I noticed in your recent builds you wire the battery isolator switch directly to the Lynx system and the solar charge controller to the same bus bars. To me with the isolator off, solar energy is not powering the batteries. As a weekend warrior I want to keep the batteries charged while the isolator is off to prevent phantom draw. Is the solution to connect the MPPT directly to the battery instead of the Lynx? Any disadvantages?
I have an EcoFlow Delta 2 that uses an XT60i connector to charge it from 400w of solar on the roof of my van. I would also like to connect a DC-DC charger to my car's main battery, and charge the Delta from that when the car is running. When the car isn't running, I would like it to charge via solar. I would like this to switch over automatically without having to manually hit a switch. There is only ONE charging input that allows that many watts at once on the Delta. Is this possible? Thanks!
So basically these are just a disconnect switch not a safety breaker. Would it be true that a breaker isn't actually needed here because the solar arrays are protected by fuses on the roof? My point being can these be switched off whilst the sun is shining safely?
All of that is correct, yes. *If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store* (shop.explorist.life) and want some more personalized guidance on that, reach out: shop.explorist.life/support
I want to wire 2 seperate batteries into my solar setup so I can run on one while charging the other, then flip when I deplete the battery. Could I accomplish this by having a NO/NC relay in between my charge controller and the two battery banks?
@EXPLORISTlife the problem is charging a 400ah battery will take longer than 200ah with a 400 watt panel system and I don't have the real-estate to add more panels. Would it still be recommended to run the entire setup without splitting the batteries?
So I just purchased the original recommended breaker and box for the solar disconnect and noted the warning about directionality with that breaker - so which end of the breaker should I use to insert the solar panel wires?
The instructions or diagram on the breaker should help there. There are too many different breakers out there for me to advise, which Is why we started selling this one in house.
It was the one linked from the parts list for the 2000 watt inverter-charger-520W-Solar-60A… another user suggested that PV input would be at the top and that would make sense as those are the only ones marked with a + and - .
Thanks Nate. A question - I just laid out plans to upgrade the solar on our travel trailer to add a second panel, an appropriate charge controller and add a disconnect SWITCH per your earlier video. If there is a right direction for wiring through the 2-line switch, how do I identify that so it is used correctly? Or are switches really a poor choice for isolation? Thank you for the great instructional videos!!
As for 'right direction' for the breakers, you'll just want to check out the instructions that should come with the switch. The isolator shown removes all doubt on what is the correct way.
Hey Nate, I am planning a photovoltaic system with several Victron chargers connected to a battery bank. As we know with chargers, you must first disconnect the solar panels after the battery bank, if they remain without power they (chargers) can burn because they do not know how to handle the power from the panels. What scheme should I use to ensure correct disconnection for servicing? Thank you very much.
Same way as I show in all of my diagrams. Main battery switch for the battery connection and solar isolators between the solar arrays and the charge controller. Simply turn off the solar array isolators before turning off the battery switch.
@@EXPLORISTlife I've been watching your videos for a long time and I can't get enough of the education you give us. Maybe you also convinced me to use the Victron system. Thank you for your answer and your dedication in the field that you master so well.
Is there a reason why some devices you wire up you use ferrules and others you don’t. Perhaps it was just because this was a demo secenario. Just curious. Great vids by the way
Thank you for making all of these "side quest" videos!! Is there a solar Isolator that will work with a Max Solar Array Amperage Output of 100A (MPPT 150|100)??
Just a note, the current out of a charge controller is (almost) always the limiting factor. The battery voltage is (almost) always lower than the panel voltage, so to match power the current is higher. As an example, A 12V battery (14V charge voltage) can take 100A from a charge controller. The power out of the charge controller is volts * amps which is 1400W in this case. If the panel voltage is 30V, then the max panel current you'll see is 46.6A. I've heard of boost charge controller that can output more voltage than input, but I haven't seen one.
Exactly, madcow. For further examples... all of our solar charging wiring kits keep the array amperage under 30A so we can use standard PV combiners. The charge controller will boost that amperage up to 100 (given a 100A CC and adequate solar input) once it regulates the voltage down to a voltage more appropriate to charge a battery bank.
Hi, we have that solar isolated from you and it’s great for our 2x 175kw solar panels into our victron smart solar charge controller mppt 100/30. As we are trying to go full electric we we’re looking to put up on top another 2x solar panels, this time 2x 100kw with another charge controller. We don’t have anymore room on our lynx distributor for mega fuses so where would another mega fuse be positioned?
@@EXPLORISTlife brilliant, many thanks for this. I’ve just watched this and have one question before going ahead with this, where I would connect the lynx distributor bus bar to the mrbf fuse holder I currently have my VE.Bus Smart Dongle as well as another feed going to our smart shunt, are these still ok to remain on this terminal while connecting the mrbf fuse holder to take the cables to a smartsolar charge controller?
Hi Nate, I have a quick question: Can the van be considered (electrically) one giant piece of metal? If so, is it enough for example to connect the battery (-) side to some metal stud, pass a single (+) wire to the other side of the van, connect a lamp (or any other consumer), and the other side of that lamp, the minus side, to the "ground', I mean the van's body. will that work? thanks.
Доброго часу. LYNX SHUNT має два однаковых гнізда VE.Саn. Одне для зв'язку із GX, а інше глушиться резистором RJ45. Питання? Куди можна використовувати інше гніздо, яке заглушено буде RJ45, невже можливо паралельне підключення декількох LYNX SHUNT? Навіщо продублювали гнізда VE.Can?
Hi. Excuse my ignorance but once your solar panels are set up and running why would you ever want to isolate the solar panels from the controller? Would that be when doing maintenance or what?
Thanks for the video! I'm relatively new to some of these larger diameter wires and have been recently exposed to using ferrules for them, particularly in conjunction with screw terminals (I have normally done much smaller electronics). I noticed that you aren't using ferrules here on the isolator, and I think I saw you doing that on another video as well-- is there any particular reason you're not using them on the isolator here, or are they just not necessary in this case (and if so, why)? Just trying to make sure I understand so I don't make mistakes in the future.
The terminals are so big there is no real danger of having stray wires cross over to the next terminal, which is my main reason to use ferrules. Ferrules are tools and not requirements, and if they don't 'help', they aren't needed.
The breaker would provide no overcurrent protection. The overcurrent, if required, would come from from MC4 fuses upstream of the MC4 combiners (which are in each of our solar charging wiring kits, as appropriate) Again... the breaker that I was previously recommending, was never never never in place for overcurrent protection as a breaker in that position could never protect from an overcurrent event.
Look for our old solar breaker video. The 2nd half of that video explains why a breaker in this location would never trip OR would be tripping under normal operation.
Oh great. But you are one week late. I just installed my 63 amp breaker/ disconnect last week. Hate to redo it. I put the solar panel wires into the top of the breaker. Is this correct? I also used ferrules which I see you didn’t do this time. Why not? Edit to add: I see your reply below on the ferrules. Edit again: I have three, 400 watt panels in parallel. 42 volts and theoretical max of 28.5 amps.
Nate, thanks again for the great videos and information. I plan to replace my Solar panel breaker with a DC disconnect! I did have a couple of questions about using the DC disconnect, main battery switch and what you recommend for order of switching and stand-by mode. 1. Based on your videos I think you want to power batteries first, then solar. This way the Solar inverter is powered and can function when the Solar kicks in. In shutdown you want to disconnect Solar, then the battery bank. Is that correct? I seem to remember from some video that you agreed with this but may have said the Solar inverter won't be damaged if you leave the Solar on, but the battery bank off? 2. What do you/or Battleborn recommend for stand-by when not using your RV? Should you power everything off and leave it (say for 3 months until the next adventure....)? Or do these systems like being topped off so perhaps leave the RV sitting there with Solar/Battery Bank on, floating the system for months on end? Thanks Nate John
1: Correct. There should always be battery voltage to the MPPT while there is PV voltage to the MPPT. 2: Check Battle Born's FAQ page. They've got their storage/winterization info available there.
Ok, this might be a stupid question, but: Why wouldn't you just use a switch like the one commonly used as the battery isolator? What's the difference? This is about six times the size of that! Why would you want to use this? Thanks, Nate!
Solar array voltages are generally higher than the 48V max on a battery switch plus the battery switch cannot simultaneously disconnect both the positive and negative conductor which is a code requirement.
Yeah, even if you don't need it for code compliancy, the voltage is still too low in 95% of cases. The max voltage of most of those battery switches is 48V. A "12V" solar panel can easily be pushing 25V, and having only two of them wired in series would exceed the max voltage of the switch. A "Battery Switch" just isn't the correct part when a literal "Solar Isolator" is readily available.
I purchased this solar isolator from you. I have a few complaints: the instructions that come with it are extremely hard to understand, and I can’t get the cover to reattach to the base.
Hey Joe! Sorry about the instructions. Looks like you never submitted an order ticket asking for help? We've got several video tutorials I could have pointed you toward that would have helped you wire this isolator. Re: the cover attaching to the base: submit an order support ticket and we will reply asking for pics to see how we can get that straightened out.
That's not always true, no, but thanks for watching anyway! I've got a specific video for 'when to fuse a solar array' about that concept, specifically if you give it a search. Hopefully that helps clear up your confusion! 🙂👍
At this point, we've made enough videos that if you search for your question, you'll find your answer. If not; feel free to ask whatever questions you have and we will point you in the right direction. It's always faster/better to just ask your question instead of asking how to ask a question. Saves a step, ya know?
Nope. Ferrules are tools and not requirements and I didn't feel a ferrule was helpful in this particular application. So in the spirit of 'not adding something I felt unnecessary', I omitted it. The terminals are so deep there is realistically no way that stray wires can cross over to the next terminal over; which is one of the biggest reasons to use a ferrule.
Hi. In Europe (or at least not in Finland) we don't put wires in both up and down side in this kind of situation. We install both pairs from bottom side to keep it more weatherproof and installing them outside, also fire protection is a bit better. According to statistics, a lot of fires have started from DC disconnectors (bad connection). In addition to that, we also have clamps with rubber seal for double cables. And we follow IEC 60364-7-712 as our code. We do consider also DC disconnectors classification as DC-20...DC-22 and DC-PV0...2 etc.
Many people have done the mistake of using 110/220v AC breakers and switches rated for the Ampere they have on their DC solar system of less volt. Problem is that AC and DC is very different when it comes to arcing and a 100A AC switch will be destroyed when it has to quench a 100A DC current arc and it has a risk of catcthing fire.
Yeah, this switch removes all doubt. The old breakers we were recommending were DC breakers too, so they worked too as long as they weren't wired incorrectly.
Why would you ever want to disconnect your solar panels from the charge controller? Whats the point? Why would you NOT want your solar charging the battery bank? I’ve installed allot of solar systems.. never with a isolator or disconnect.
Ferrules are tools and not requirements and I didn't feel a ferrule was helpful in this particular application. So in the spirit of 'not adding something I felt unnecessary', I omitted it. The terminals are so deep there is realistically no way that stray wires can cross over to the next terminal over; which is one of the biggest reasons to use a ferrule.
Hi Nate, learn a lot from your videos, great work. Question for you, I have a single 150w roof panel and a solar on the side for ground panels. How would you wire the ground panels into this setup? I understand that you would run it into the right two terminals but there isn’t enough physical room to wire two sets of wires into my Victron MPPT 100/20 48v converter. How would you connect the bottom set of terminals so that there are only two wires exiting to the MPPT controller ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Looking at this it didn't look to impressive when the isolator mounting screws from the isolator to the mounting box are cracked. That shouldn't be the case.
Am definitely skeptical, showing that you are just selling shit and whatever benefits you most either you got a good deal or they are supporting your channel financially or both so you can sell to others for full. I’m gonna listen to you and ur opinion with a grain of salt. Definitely a good salesman with d/c electrical wiring experience😅
So, you were okay with it when I was pushing sales to Amazon? All of a sudden I start a business that has a greater benefit to myself, my family, and my employees instead of Bezos and I'm automatically discredited? Remember... I make these videos for free regardless of if you want to buy from me or not because I feel there is a severe lack of free education available in the world, and I'm in a position to change that.
Just curious to ask is this kind of isolator needed in small systems? I understand it in buildings as like in case of fire but in RV? If we pretend like possibility to wires make short circuit or panel short circuit case then this would do nothing! Or is this just when voltage is so high that it may cause harm if you touch wires? I mean 12v or even 30-40v do nothing!
Wish I had watched this video sooner. I built my system and had followed a similar build from online that used a DIM rail AC Miniature Circuit Breaker with enclosure. Following that example nearly caused a serious injury. The DIM rail AC Miniature Circuit Breaker was faulty and allowed current to flow from the solar panels into the system all the while installation was in progress. And yes the wire posted had been checked after installation and failed after install. So bottom line always check your electrical post, be safe and enjoy. Thanks Nate your videos are gold.
you used ac breakers for dc?
Breakers should be rated for their use, so… no.
Our first addition to our system after adding a GameChanger3. I used to race in the sport compact class. The first rule of thumb when adding performance products was to upgrade brake. This device is the corollary to brakes. Plan to add close to 800 w more power in a second array.
Thanks for the technique on stripping solar wire. The 10 gauge wire is kind of unique The two tool method helps prevent losing any wire strands. Thank you both for sourcing and distributing these kits. Cheers.
Good catch! Yeah, the solar wire sure does have a burly insulation on it that the self-adjusting strippers cant cut through, so I score it with the other strippers and then use the self-adjusters to pull it off the copper. Thanks for tuning in!
I agree with everything you said
@@EXPLORISTlife
Yep great point and thanks for the video
How do you determine when to use Ferules? I see sometimes you use them and sometimes you dont.
Can these isolator switches be used for positive wires only?
I have 4 different arrays, so instead of needing an 8pole set up of switches, can i run all negatives to a bus bar/bypass the switch, and have all 4 array positives go into the switch so i can isolate all 4 with 1 switch?
Hope that makes sense.
I'm very limited on space so only having 1 switch would be ideal
Thanks Nate for making this video, I have this isolator and this will come in handy when I begin my install.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Grounding Question: We have the solar isolator as described in the RV as a master cut off that comes from the PV wires from a PV combiner box . The PV combiner box is roof mounted (4 strings, surge protective device, 50A DC breaker). The PV combiner box also has a cable gland for a ground wire and connector inside the box (from the SPD). Should we run a ground wire from the PV combiner box to the RV chassis frame? Thanks.
With the "breaker" style disconnect you talk about in your video, you mention that if they are hooked up backwards there is potential for fire, etc. How can you tell which way to hook these up correctly?
The ones we sell in our store are not polarity specific: shop.explorist.life
I noticed at the 1:50 mark that it looks like there are cracks under the lower mounting screws. Is this a common issue with these components? I don’t want to worry about long term quality, but this seems like the best product available that I’ve researched.
It's not an issue, no. This is our 'testing' isolator and has really been beat up. You'll never abuse your isolator like we do in the shop while making these videos and during R&D. 😂🤣
hi. great vid. question, i was using dc mini switches not just for the on/off but also the tripping functionality, if a surge came, it would hopefully pop them. do the isolators have that "fuse breaker" functionality or just on/off with the knob? is that something you'd want?
There is no way a solar panel can produce a 'surge' shy of high-line wires falling on the array or a lightning strike, both of which would likely destroy either a breaker or a switch. So no... under normal operation, a breaker in the location of the isolator cannot function as overcurrent protection.
Could a faulty charge controller not put the full capacity of the battery on the conductors from the panels? The overcurrent protections is needed to protect the conductors from overheating.
Cool video Nate! Three questions, I have 10 panels going to 10 MPPT's, does this mean I need 5 isolators? Do these provide circuit protection like a CB? Last, why no ferrules?
Thanks for explaining that. Although the dedicated switch is smaller, it's still quite unnecessarily bulky considering the simple switching it does. Are there any more-compact solutions or is it possible to use the old solution with breakers in a much-smaller enclosure or without an enclosure assuming it would be properly protected by a non-conductive DIY cover?
So many of the solar electronics components and modules *seem* as if they were designed with only residential applications in mind where space is not a premium. I think there's a worthwhile market for solar equipment that isn't so bulky where not necessary and I hope companies will start to engineer more products specifically for mobile applications or at least are compact that serve both mobile and residential applications well.
If I had a solution that was smaller, you can rest assured that I would have chosen that one instead. I'm always on the lookout for better/smaller parts, and a smaller disconnect that still has the needed ratings is definitely on the list.
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks
I want to use the previous breaker box and use 2 pole breaker that you recommended. I'd also like to add another 2 pole disconnect in the box, as a battery isolator to stop current exiting batteries to loads. I'm guessing the other box will be better/is rated for that sort of thing. I have 4 x 12V x 100ah lithium. 24v series. Will have to find a breaker appropriate for batteries.
I just bought that PV disconnect 😄
Great to know I did right!
Nice! Hope it helps.
For the ground deploy why do you use two break points (the plug and the isolator)?
Nate ..thanks, your cool demonstration really helped 👊🙏
Thx a lot Nate, you're quite an hero in many ways. got the newest EG4 18K-PV which doesn't need a combiner box and I'm also going to use Discover AES 42-48-6650 (4 of them) 2 per string hooked up to a T-class fuse "each string" do I need anything else?
I am planning a small array of panels (6X400 watts) with enphase IQ8 plus microinverters, can I use this isolator right after the Q cable before carrying the power to the house and the panel, can it be used for AC current? Thanks. There will be a disconnect before the main panel.
So I am setting up a "medium sized" RV solar install. I did a simple setup by just replacing the existing lead acid batteries with 2 SOK 206ah batteries all in the exisitng battery box. I also replaced the existing charge controller with a lithium programable one. Since then I have also added a DC to DC charger to run off the alternator. Haven't installed any solar panels yet, to be 800 watts on 2 mppt controlers..
So far so good, no conflicts in the system. Of course I only use shore power or generator when the coach is not in motion. I have been looking at those fancy Victron Multiplus things but I already have the charge converter. Do I need to concerned with power coming into the batteries form both solar and the shore power? or say the DC to DC while driving and the solar panels?
Is there some other device which would automatically switch between solar and some other source? Basicly they system is controller manually so I was thinking of the solar disconnect would also do the job. But its dummy proof. And I am a dummy.
ps: I did a search but probably don't know the proper terminology. If you already have a vid on this I apologize. I did look but didn't see anything.
Say you have two arrays of 4 panels each going to two separate MPPT charge controllers and you want the ability to isolate the arrays individually…Array #1 and Array #2 this box won’t do that. Would need two boxes. Wouldn’t a battery master cutofff switch work just as well with “1, 2, Both, Off” to accomplish the isolation of each array, having both on and having both off? Can those type switches not handle the higher open circuit voltages from Solar? Thanks!
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
Nice video. I just bought a portable solar generator and want to buy solar panels to charge it. I would like to have at least 2 charging points coming from the same solar panels. Are there are any "distribution boxes" or something of the sort that will allow me run cables from the solar panels to different rooms and allow me change which charging point is active at any given time?
Hello Nate, I have 4 x 310 watt panels wired in parrallel going to a Victron 150/85 mppt charge controller. Max voltage input is 40 volts and approx 31 amps input, what would you recommwnd as the size of fuse/circuit breaker prior to the solar isolator as I would prefer a circuit breaker over a fuse for convinience etc?
Congrats on 200k subs !
Thank you so much 😀
Hay Nate,
Quick question. can i use this switch lets say to isolate a B2B charger (victron 12/12/30 DC-DC)/ so 2 birds with 1 stone???
one side would be solar array, other side B2B charger?
Reason i am asking cos it exceeds both the solar controller (Victron 100/50A) and the B2B charger ratings if there is any 64A model.
Thanks, Greg
Dave, as you formery used the fuses as disconnect, my question is still were to place the disconnect?
From my feeling I would place it near the solar array.
Regardless of if you use a breaker or this switch as the disconnect, it would go next to the charge controller. If you array needs actual fusing, those would be on the positive wire coming from each of the positive wires coming from the solar branch connector.
Nate, The isolator is rated for 63A, is that for the entire switch or for each pole connection in the switch? The reason for my question is that the way I was planning on wiring my two arrays in parallel would total 66A, with two controllers. I am trying to avoid using series because of any shading which may occur on the panels resulting less output for the whole array. Also if the max for the switch is a total of 63A, does that translate to 31.5A for each side of the switch or can the amps vary for each side, one being more than 31.5A and the other side being less than 31.5A? Do you have access to their 100 amp version from the manufacturer. The information I have found is limited.
Hey Nate I have 4-100 watt solar panels and a Victron 100/30 charge controller and one 12 volt lead acid battery should I wire the panels in series or parallel?
Hi, I see a few simple battery disconnect big red switch used for solar cutoff, I guess there would be an advantage tu using this solar isolator instead of those switches ?
Indeed. Much higher voltage ratings on these isolators, which is what we need for properly designed solar arrays.
@@EXPLORISTlife nice, thanks !
This is neat. In my case I have three arrays. Do you offer one for my needs?
Yep! 2x of them.
@EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers Theoretically yes but having two of them would occupy more room than it needs to. Currently I am looking at a plastic box like your old design that accomodates three double din breakers.
How do you connect "hot wires" to the isolator (panels already mounted on the roof and connected)? Do you cover the panels when making connection or use precautious when making connection or you do something else? Thanks
Disconnect the PV connectors from the array on the roof and then the wires coming into the isolator will be dead.
Greetings Nate & Steph !
You’ve ‘endorsed’ the use of ferrules in other segments. Would they be ill-advised on this component ? Since your earlier vids referencing ferrules, I have quite an assortment stockpiled …
Luv you Two for what you do !
😊
If they make your life easier, feel free to use them.
Is this a better option than breakers or do you recommend replacing the breakers with this?
If the breakers are rated for the load, are wired properly, and are not giving you issues, there's really no reason to swap.
Yes you should. AC breakers are not designed for DC and AC breakers cannot handle arc extinguishing as DC breakers do.
Hey Nate. You've helped me a lot with my RV setup over the past half year or so - definitely couldn't have done it without your expertise, I really appreciate it. Do you know of any good videos (or will you be covering it and making your own?) that cover the actual process of mounting solar panels to the roof of a van or RV? It seems to get glanced over in any of the guides that I watch; maybe that means it's common knowledge and doesn't really need to be covered, but I'm totally in the dark about it and am a little intimidated. Are there specific mounting systems that I should be looking into? Do they have names? Or do all solar panels come with their or brackets that I simply follow the directions to use? Do I have to mount them into the frame of the RV? Anything you might be able to share to get me going on this last part of my project?
Edit: Sorry Nate I see you already made the video: "DESIGNING & BUILDING A ROOF RACK (to hold 580W of solar)" I'll give that another watch and see what I can learn.
Thank you for your comment I was wondering the same thing I don't want to drill into a motorhome roof. And I'm a little bit in the dark on the best ways to put on solar panels hopefully I can find that video.
We will be doing RV specific videos later this year. I'll be sure to cover how to attach the panels to an OEM RV roof.
@@EXPLORISTlife ok ty
Hey Nate. Solar isolators are required by code for residential or commercial terrestrial solar installation where there are obvious grounding issues. The bulky solar isolator seems to be over kill for an RV. In an RV isn't a DC cutoff switch on the positive wire from the solar panels to the controller enough to provide solar isolation? That is the recommendation from AM Solar, who have been building RV solar installations since 1987.
I'm always going to err on the side of more conservative/safety (because of those residential codes you mention). There's no reason not to. I can't base my videos on things that "seem" to be overkill. That would be irresponsible of me. The RV industry has garbage codes that were written way back in the day when RV manufacturers were trying to do the least possible with no regard for property conservation in terms of fire.
Hi Nate. Thanks for the work and detail you put in your videos. I noticed in your recent builds you wire the battery isolator switch directly to the Lynx system and the solar charge controller to the same bus bars. To me with the isolator off, solar energy is not powering the batteries. As a weekend warrior I want to keep the batteries charged while the isolator is off to prevent phantom draw. Is the solution to connect the MPPT directly to the battery instead of the Lynx? Any disadvantages?
Just turn off your lights, fridge, inverter, and other loads and keep the solar on. It'll accomplish the same thing in an easier manner.
Thank you for making this video very useful and inspiring
Glad it was helpful!
So which way do you wire the old breaker to not die? Ain’t ready yet lol
I have an EcoFlow Delta 2 that uses an XT60i connector to charge it from 400w of solar on the roof of my van. I would also like to connect a DC-DC charger to my car's main battery, and charge the Delta from that when the car is running. When the car isn't running, I would like it to charge via solar. I would like this to switch over automatically without having to manually hit a switch. There is only ONE charging input that allows that many watts at once on the Delta. Is this possible? Thanks!
The kits and system designs that we use will definitely do that; but I'm not sure about ecoflow.
So basically these are just a disconnect switch not a safety breaker. Would it be true that a breaker isn't actually needed here because the solar arrays are protected by fuses on the roof? My point being can these be switched off whilst the sun is shining safely?
All of that is correct, yes. *If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store* (shop.explorist.life) and want some more personalized guidance on that, reach out: shop.explorist.life/support
I want to wire 2 seperate batteries into my solar setup so I can run on one while charging the other, then flip when I deplete the battery. Could I accomplish this by having a NO/NC relay in between my charge controller and the two battery banks?
You can use and charge a system simultaneously so there is no need to do what you are proposing, no.
@EXPLORISTlife the problem is charging a 400ah battery will take longer than 200ah with a 400 watt panel system and I don't have the real-estate to add more panels. Would it still be recommended to run the entire setup without splitting the batteries?
Correct. You'll just need to supplement with shore, alternator, or generator.
So I just purchased the original recommended breaker and box for the solar disconnect and noted the warning about directionality with that breaker - so which end of the breaker should I use to insert the solar panel wires?
The instructions or diagram on the breaker should help there. There are too many different breakers out there for me to advise, which Is why we started selling this one in house.
It was the one linked from the parts list for the 2000 watt inverter-charger-520W-Solar-60A… another user suggested that PV input would be at the top and that would make sense as those are the only ones marked with a + and - .
Can you run two different charge controllers into the Victron Lynx Distributor?
Yep!
Thanks Nate. A question - I just laid out plans to upgrade the solar on our travel trailer to add a second panel, an appropriate charge controller and add a disconnect SWITCH per your earlier video. If there is a right direction for wiring through the 2-line switch, how do I identify that so it is used correctly? Or are switches really a poor choice for isolation? Thank you for the great instructional videos!!
As for 'right direction' for the breakers, you'll just want to check out the instructions that should come with the switch. The isolator shown removes all doubt on what is the correct way.
Hey Nate, I am planning a photovoltaic system with several Victron chargers connected to a battery bank. As we know with chargers, you must first disconnect the solar panels after the battery bank, if they remain without power they (chargers) can burn because they do not know how to handle the power from the panels. What scheme should I use to ensure correct disconnection for servicing? Thank you very much.
Same way as I show in all of my diagrams. Main battery switch for the battery connection and solar isolators between the solar arrays and the charge controller. Simply turn off the solar array isolators before turning off the battery switch.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks.
@@EXPLORISTlife I've been watching your videos for a long time and I can't get enough of the education you give us. Maybe you also convinced me to use the Victron system. Thank you for your answer and your dedication in the field that you master so well.
Is there a reason why some devices you wire up you use ferrules and others you don’t. Perhaps it was just because this was a demo secenario. Just curious. Great vids by the way
Thanks mate I'm gathering as much information to build my own solar power system.. kudoss 👍
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
Do ever use ferrules on the wires?
Yep! I think you'll be enlightened on that the more videos of ours you watch.
Thank you for making all of these "side quest" videos!! Is there a solar Isolator that will work with a Max Solar Array Amperage Output of 100A (MPPT 150|100)??
Just a note, the current out of a charge controller is (almost) always the limiting factor. The battery voltage is (almost) always lower than the panel voltage, so to match power the current is higher. As an example, A 12V battery (14V charge voltage) can take 100A from a charge controller. The power out of the charge controller is volts * amps which is 1400W in this case. If the panel voltage is 30V, then the max panel current you'll see is 46.6A. I've heard of boost charge controller that can output more voltage than input, but I haven't seen one.
Exactly, madcow. For further examples... all of our solar charging wiring kits keep the array amperage under 30A so we can use standard PV combiners. The charge controller will boost that amperage up to 100 (given a 100A CC and adequate solar input) once it regulates the voltage down to a voltage more appropriate to charge a battery bank.
what about fusing the PV circuit?
Hi, we have that solar isolated from you and it’s great for our 2x 175kw solar panels into our victron smart solar charge controller mppt 100/30. As we are trying to go full electric we we’re looking to put up on top another 2x solar panels, this time 2x 100kw with another charge controller.
We don’t have anymore room on our lynx distributor for mega fuses so where would another mega fuse be positioned?
Check this out: th-cam.com/video/W9n01vuGDgM/w-d-xo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife brilliant, many thanks for this. I’ve just watched this and have one question before going ahead with this, where I would connect the lynx distributor bus bar to the mrbf fuse holder I currently have my VE.Bus Smart Dongle as well as another feed going to our smart shunt, are these still ok to remain on this terminal while connecting the mrbf fuse holder to take the cables to a smartsolar charge controller?
Put the fuse holder UNDER the ring terminals on that 'far-right' stud, and that'll be fine.
@@EXPLORISTlife fantastic, I really appreciate the time you’ve taken to help me, cheers guys
Is there any reason to change out the circuit breakers for the isolator? TIA
If your dual pole breaker is wired correctly and is not giving you issues; there is no reason to switch.
Hi Nate, I have a quick question: Can the van be considered (electrically) one giant piece of metal? If so, is it enough for example to connect the battery (-) side to some metal stud, pass a single (+) wire to the other side of the van, connect a lamp (or any other consumer), and the other side of that lamp, the minus side, to the "ground', I mean the van's body. will that work? thanks.
Here are the ways I recommend setting up a fully functioning system: www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
Thank you. It helps.
Доброго часу. LYNX SHUNT має два однаковых гнізда VE.Саn. Одне для зв'язку із GX, а інше глушиться резистором RJ45. Питання? Куди можна використовувати інше гніздо, яке заглушено буде RJ45, невже можливо паралельне підключення декількох LYNX SHUNT? Навіщо продублювали гнізда VE.Can?
Hi. Excuse my ignorance but once your solar panels are set up and running why would you ever want to isolate the solar panels from the controller? Would that be when doing maintenance or what?
Yeah; just for maintenance.
Thanks for the video! I'm relatively new to some of these larger diameter wires and have been recently exposed to using ferrules for them, particularly in conjunction with screw terminals (I have normally done much smaller electronics). I noticed that you aren't using ferrules here on the isolator, and I think I saw you doing that on another video as well-- is there any particular reason you're not using them on the isolator here, or are they just not necessary in this case (and if so, why)? Just trying to make sure I understand so I don't make mistakes in the future.
The terminals are so big there is no real danger of having stray wires cross over to the next terminal, which is my main reason to use ferrules. Ferrules are tools and not requirements, and if they don't 'help', they aren't needed.
@@EXPLORISTlife That makes sense, thanks!
Is this solar isolater water tight? I would like to mount it on top of the roof of my truck camper, as close to my solar panel as possible
I would strongly advise installing it in your camper next to your MPPT or near your main battery disconnect.
It is IP66, though, but only when you use 1 wire per gland. I still don't recommend putting it out in the elements, though.
@EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers neither do I 😊
Thank you for this! :)
You're so welcome!
Good info.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Isn't there an advantage to using the breaker box as it also provides over-current protection?
The breaker would provide no overcurrent protection.
The overcurrent, if required, would come from from MC4 fuses upstream of the MC4 combiners (which are in each of our solar charging wiring kits, as appropriate)
Again... the breaker that I was previously recommending, was never never never in place for overcurrent protection as a breaker in that position could never protect from an overcurrent event.
Thanks! Glad I asked! The breakers I was considering have a current rating (e.g., 16A). This isn't sufficient for over-current protection?
By the way, Thanks for all the videos (even if my system is for a boat!).
Look for our old solar breaker video. The 2nd half of that video explains why a breaker in this location would never trip OR would be tripping under normal operation.
Also our 'How to fuse a solar array' video.
Where do we buy the DC breaker?
The link to the isolator is in the video description & pinned comment.
Oh great. But you are one week late. I just installed my 63 amp breaker/ disconnect last week. Hate to redo it.
I put the solar panel wires into the top of the breaker. Is this correct?
I also used ferrules which I see you didn’t do this time. Why not?
Edit to add: I see your reply below on the ferrules.
Edit again: I have three, 400 watt panels in parallel. 42 volts and theoretical max of 28.5 amps.
The instructions on the breaker should say which direction the flow of power needs to go if the breaker is uni-directional.
Yes it did. So I should be ok. I will say the breaker box was very tight. Your new recommendation looks better for space
whats wrong with the DC miniature circuit breaker? You mentioned possible fire due to wrong wiring but don't mention the correct way of wiring them
We now have non directional breakers available at shop.explorist.life too. 👍👍
@ is that the $30 alternative to the linked product?
shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/solar-isolator-breaker-single-array/
Good news! Thanks!
I need the dimension of solar on and off switch please!!!
It's listed on the product page through the pinned comment.
Nate, thanks again for the great videos and information. I plan to replace my Solar panel breaker with a DC disconnect! I did have a couple of questions about using the DC disconnect, main battery switch and what you recommend for order of switching and stand-by mode.
1. Based on your videos I think you want to power batteries first, then solar. This way the Solar inverter is powered and can function when the Solar kicks in. In shutdown you want to disconnect Solar, then the battery bank. Is that correct? I seem to remember from some video that you agreed with this but may have said the Solar inverter won't be damaged if you leave the Solar on, but the battery bank off?
2. What do you/or Battleborn recommend for stand-by when not using your RV? Should you power everything off and leave it (say for 3 months until the next adventure....)? Or do these systems like being topped off so perhaps leave the RV sitting there with Solar/Battery Bank on, floating the system for months on end?
Thanks Nate
John
1: Correct. There should always be battery voltage to the MPPT while there is PV voltage to the MPPT.
2: Check Battle Born's FAQ page. They've got their storage/winterization info available there.
What is the dimension of this solar array?
Ok, this might be a stupid question, but: Why wouldn't you just use a switch like the one commonly used as the battery isolator? What's the difference? This is about six times the size of that! Why would you want to use this?
Thanks, Nate!
Solar array voltages are generally higher than the 48V max on a battery switch plus the battery switch cannot simultaneously disconnect both the positive and negative conductor which is a code requirement.
@@EXPLORISTlife You're amazing! Thanks. (Imight add that I'm form Europe and might have different code for things, but not looked into them yet)
Yeah, even if you don't need it for code compliancy, the voltage is still too low in 95% of cases. The max voltage of most of those battery switches is 48V. A "12V" solar panel can easily be pushing 25V, and having only two of them wired in series would exceed the max voltage of the switch. A "Battery Switch" just isn't the correct part when a literal "Solar Isolator" is readily available.
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks for that explanation
Why nor use ferrules?
This video shares some insight into when you may/may not want to use ferrules: th-cam.com/video/dVcigKE29d4/w-d-xo.html
I purchased this solar isolator from you. I have a few complaints: the instructions that come with it are extremely hard to understand, and I can’t get the cover to reattach to the base.
Hey Joe! Sorry about the instructions. Looks like you never submitted an order ticket asking for help? We've got several video tutorials I could have pointed you toward that would have helped you wire this isolator. Re: the cover attaching to the base: submit an order support ticket and we will reply asking for pics to see how we can get that straightened out.
@@EXPLORISTlife thanx will do.
Even if you have the switch, you would still need breakers to protect your wiring and equipment from an overload
That's not always true, no, but thanks for watching anyway! I've got a specific video for 'when to fuse a solar array' about that concept, specifically if you give it a search. Hopefully that helps clear up your confusion! 🙂👍
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks, I'll check that out!
So basically this is just a light switch , right ?
I have a few questions who can I talk to about this
At this point, we've made enough videos that if you search for your question, you'll find your answer. If not; feel free to ask whatever questions you have and we will point you in the right direction. It's always faster/better to just ask your question instead of asking how to ask a question. Saves a step, ya know?
it was too long to put in the comments so I figure I would reach out but thanks anyway
🤔not using wire-end ferrules?1??
Nope. Ferrules are tools and not requirements and I didn't feel a ferrule was helpful in this particular application. So in the spirit of 'not adding something I felt unnecessary', I omitted it. The terminals are so deep there is realistically no way that stray wires can cross over to the next terminal over; which is one of the biggest reasons to use a ferrule.
@EXPLORIST life - DIY Could he could use a feral if he wanted to
Hi. In Europe (or at least not in Finland) we don't put wires in both up and down side in this kind of situation. We install both pairs from bottom side to keep it more weatherproof and installing them outside, also fire protection is a bit better. According to statistics, a lot of fires have started from DC disconnectors (bad connection).
In addition to that, we also have clamps with rubber seal for double cables. And we follow IEC 60364-7-712 as our code. We do consider also DC disconnectors classification as DC-20...DC-22 and DC-PV0...2 etc.
a lot of dc breakers go on fire as they cant extinguish the arc
Yeah, if they are installed backwards and/or if they are rated for too low of voltage.
Many people have done the mistake of using 110/220v AC breakers and switches rated for the Ampere they have on their DC solar system of less volt. Problem is that AC and DC is very different when it comes to arcing and a 100A AC switch will be destroyed when it has to quench a 100A DC current arc and it has a risk of catcthing fire.
Yeah, this switch removes all doubt. The old breakers we were recommending were DC breakers too, so they worked too as long as they weren't wired incorrectly.
Why would you ever want to disconnect your solar panels from the charge controller? Whats the point? Why would you NOT want your solar charging the battery bank? I’ve installed allot of solar systems.. never with a isolator or disconnect.
Maintenance, change your battery, repairs.
Why no ferrule?
Ferrules are tools and not requirements and I didn't feel a ferrule was helpful in this particular application. So in the spirit of 'not adding something I felt unnecessary', I omitted it. The terminals are so deep there is realistically no way that stray wires can cross over to the next terminal over; which is one of the biggest reasons to use a ferrule.
Tom... please start your own channel if you want to teach things. Thanks.
Hi Nate, learn a lot from your videos, great work. Question for you, I have a single 150w roof panel and a solar on the side for ground panels. How would you wire the ground panels into this setup? I understand that you would run it into the right two terminals but there isn’t enough physical room to wire two sets of wires into my Victron MPPT 100/20 48v converter. How would you connect the bottom set of terminals so that there are only two wires exiting to the MPPT controller ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Gonna need a 2nd charge controller. Roof and ground panels should each go to their own charge controller.
Thanks
Cool
😁🙌
Wee advise when you strip wire don’t move out the cut sleeve until you circle it. That way you don’t need do it in your fingers lol
Not looking for advice. 🙂👍
Hi sir
Iam sahibzada Aftab
I solater conaction vedios plz 😊
Looking at this it didn't look to impressive when the isolator mounting screws from the isolator to the mounting box are cracked. That shouldn't be the case.
This is our in-house testing isolator. You'll never put it through the abuse we've put this one through. 😂
in case of lightning circuit breaker is better then stupid manual switch
If you take a direct lightning strike, there is going to be a LOT of stuff messed up in your camper that a switch or a breaker won't help.
What, no ferrules!
Watch our recent video on ferrules for some insight to when they should vs shouldn’t be used.
Put a Tyson Tat on your face pretty please 🙏
Am definitely skeptical, showing that you are just selling shit and whatever benefits you most either you got a good deal or they are supporting your channel financially or both so you can sell to others for full. I’m gonna listen to you and ur opinion with a grain of salt. Definitely a good salesman with d/c electrical wiring experience😅
So, you were okay with it when I was pushing sales to Amazon? All of a sudden I start a business that has a greater benefit to myself, my family, and my employees instead of Bezos and I'm automatically discredited?
Remember... I make these videos for free regardless of if you want to buy from me or not because I feel there is a severe lack of free education available in the world, and I'm in a position to change that.
Just curious to ask is this kind of isolator needed in small systems? I understand it in buildings as like in case of fire but in RV? If we pretend like possibility to wires make short circuit or panel short circuit case then this would do nothing! Or is this just when voltage is so high that it may cause harm if you touch wires? I mean 12v or even 30-40v do nothing!
Ultimately, I provide the information and it's up to you on if you want to follow it or not.