Thanks Rich for providing no bs answers on things! I love the videos. As a heavier guy, I’m glad now I can set my own clutching up correctly for my self. Once I get my new sled (850 xc 137) I’ll review these videos to help set it up for my weight and driving style
Guys let me know if you want a certain video on sleds. I do not mind it takes me very little time, please post publicly here any clutch questions so everyone can learn. By the way smiling just got this msg from Brian R, "Great video rich thank you so much!! The best about this is I'm sure I'll see Brian at a race and we will talk clutching as 2 pro's would.
So for one of my sleds, an 800 axys, i had trouble getting the sled to keep stable peak rpm and wouldn't go above 8000 rpm no matter the conditions with stock clutching. I tested both a stiffer secondary spring and a helix with 2 degrees less on the second number. Both seemed to fix the issue but what is your recommendation to go with of the two for best performance?
Hi rich I ride cat so my question is is it good or bad to add tip weight I’ve moved the weight all over lately I put more in center and some heal and tip is empty!!
I want to add "Coast to my machine. When I left off the gas. It's like someone is giving me engine braking. I don't like that. I want to "COAST". So shouldn't i go to a lighter secondary spring? So that it will not back shift so fast?
Stock is fine what some of the top dirt racers do , do to more advanced timing and higher engagement so more hit off the line they might go 1 or 2 degrees steeper on the first # to keep the engine loaded more. That is the only reason to change an d a fine tuning deal.
Heard a story about a guy running with the sled up in the back and track came loose at high rpm and track failed and actually severed his left leg and unfortunately was lost in surgery. I think about that every time I run my sled with the back end up.
That's why we allow NO JACKSTANDING at SHCRA events, also clutchs can explode. ISR still allows jackstanding even after lawsuits, serious injuries and deaths from a broken track
Hey guys , you really sound like you know what you are talking about and I think you guys can certainly help me out on either picking a clutch kit or making one , I have a 2013 Polaris Indy Sp600 with the p-2 secondary , I like riding the ditches and wheelies what’s my best way to get better performance in that area , it currently has a inch and half intense track , stock 10-64 weights primary spring is 120/310 for nonelectric start I was told to go for a little stiffer spring and add adjustable weights which would run me like 250USD , another kit I was told to keep stock weight , use stiffer primary , change helix and secondary spring , helix angles he won’t specify, but for stock it is 58/42.45 , any advice , thoughts . I’ve been stuck on this for a couple years trying not to waste money on something I won’t like, happened before with a kit I bought , thank you
I have a sled powered drag bike. Id really like some help with clutching. Its powered with a stock 1990 488cc Fuji f/c. Videos on my page so you can hear its shifting. Its running 1.869sec 60ft, 5.194sec 330ft, 8.18sec 660ft at 80.26mph, 10.915sec 1000ft, and 13.351sec at 90.83mph at the 1320ft mark. Ive been 5mph faster on the back end, but a lower et. Im a bit confused 😆 I feel like its running out of steam early. Ive only added a stiffer primary. Stock helix spring, and spring is in #2 hole location. Its launching harder now. Id just like to sweeten up the back end a bit before adding power.
Got a 94 ski doo mx 470 last year it sat for awhile was.seized up from sittting got it unseized and rode a week and rings got smoked. Put new rings in and I noticed at half throttle the rpm is red lined . Gotta be a clutch problem right? Riding season about to start so wanna get it right. Pretty sure it did this before I did rings and that's what smoked the rings
Richard needed a little bit help on clutching so I can beat those 850s with my all 96 ultra. I can pull them all the way up to 450 feet the last 50 feet that’s when they pass by
Thanks Rich for providing no bs answers on things! I love the videos. As a heavier guy, I’m glad now I can set my own clutching up correctly for my self. Once I get my new sled (850 xc 137) I’ll review these videos to help set it up for my weight and driving style
Guys let me know if you want a certain video on sleds. I do not mind it takes me very little time, please post publicly here any clutch questions so everyone can learn. By the way smiling just got this msg from Brian R, "Great video rich thank you so much!! The best about this is I'm sure I'll see Brian at a race and we will talk clutching as 2 pro's would.
rich id love to see you do a video on some of the older sleds from the old days like the old ex570's and pz480's
Always enjoy your videos. Intelligent presentation with occasional humorous wit
Nice, always appreciate a good clutching video
So for one of my sleds, an 800 axys, i had trouble getting the sled to keep stable peak rpm and wouldn't go above 8000 rpm no matter the conditions with stock clutching. I tested both a stiffer secondary spring and a helix with 2 degrees less on the second number. Both seemed to fix the issue but what is your recommendation to go with of the two for best performance?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us
Thank you for sharing this great information. Very helpful.
He knows his stuff.. a big thanks
Hi rich I ride cat so my question is is it good or bad to add tip weight I’ve moved the weight all over lately I put more in center and some heal and tip is empty!!
Love these videos - Rich is very smart
I want to add "Coast to my machine. When I left off the gas. It's like someone is giving me engine braking. I don't like that. I want to "COAST". So shouldn't i go to a lighter secondary spring? So that it will not back shift so fast?
So if you are studded for drag racing, would you then leave the stock helix in? Or possibly go to a slightly smaller first number?
Stock is fine what some of the top dirt racers do , do to more advanced timing and higher engagement so more hit off the line they might go 1 or 2 degrees steeper on the first # to keep the engine loaded more. That is the only reason to change an d a fine tuning deal.
Enjoyed the video but let’s keep that caveman videographer from wheezing into the microphone the entire video next time hahah
I got him a stand thanks
Nice job
Heard a story about a guy running with the sled up in the back and track came loose at high rpm and track failed and actually severed his left leg and unfortunately was lost in surgery. I think about that every time I run my sled with the back end up.
That's why we allow NO JACKSTANDING at SHCRA events, also clutchs can explode. ISR still allows jackstanding even after lawsuits, serious injuries and deaths from a broken track
A guy in my home town lost both legs when the track broke
Hey guys , you really sound like you know what you are talking about and I think you guys can certainly help me out on either picking a clutch kit or making one , I have a 2013 Polaris Indy Sp600 with the p-2 secondary , I like riding the ditches and wheelies what’s my best way to get better performance in that area , it currently has a inch and half intense track , stock 10-64 weights primary spring is 120/310 for nonelectric start I was told to go for a little stiffer spring and add adjustable weights which would run me like 250USD , another kit I was told to keep stock weight , use stiffer primary , change helix and secondary spring , helix angles he won’t specify, but for stock it is 58/42.45 , any advice , thoughts . I’ve been stuck on this for a couple years trying not to waste money on something I won’t like, happened before with a kit I bought , thank you
yes the best bet a little stiffer on the start rate of the spring and adjustable weights. Stock helix is fine
Emphysema sounds great 👍
I have a sled powered drag bike. Id really like some help with clutching. Its powered with a stock 1990 488cc Fuji f/c. Videos on my page so you can hear its shifting. Its running 1.869sec 60ft, 5.194sec 330ft, 8.18sec 660ft at 80.26mph, 10.915sec 1000ft, and 13.351sec at 90.83mph at the 1320ft mark. Ive been 5mph faster on the back end, but a lower et. Im a bit confused 😆
I feel like its running out of steam early. Ive only added a stiffer primary. Stock helix spring, and spring is in #2 hole location. Its launching harder now. Id just like to sweeten up the back end a bit before adding power.
Got a 94 ski doo mx 470 last year it sat for awhile was.seized up from sittting got it unseized and rode a week and rings got smoked. Put new rings in and I noticed at half throttle the rpm is red lined . Gotta be a clutch problem right? Riding season about to start so wanna get it right. Pretty sure it did this before I did rings and that's what smoked the rings
Check and make sure the secondary back clutch is opening, if its not would be like driving around in low gear and you would over rev
How about a video on how regearing can affect rpm/clutches for people installing long tracks etc.
Ok, yes thanks that would help as a lot of confusion on gearing do to altitude and track length.
What if you change the gears in the sled? Lower or higher gear ratio.
How does it affect the clutching?
Any gear change puts you in a different spot on the ramp as you acceletate so will need a slight adustment to get rpms correct
Why did the button clutches only have pressure like 54 lbs @ 2inchs n 115 lbs per inch at 1"1/8 vs the roller team clutches needing 150 to 220 lbs?
probably the roller clutch moves so easy and the only thing it is any could for is a super quick backshift that only mtn guys need sometimes.
Richard needed a little bit help on clutching so I can beat those 850s with my all 96 ultra. I can pull them all the way up to 450 feet the last 50 feet that’s when they pass by
What RPM does your sled shift out of first at?
Mate stop breathing into the microphone😂