Remove a broken bolt using a left handed drill bit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ย. 2011
- Removing a broken bolt or stud can be extremely difficult but in some cases such as when the bolt head has been sheared off by sideways force it is possible to remove the remainder of the bolt using a left handed drill bit. Here we demonstrate how to remove a broken stud using the left handed drill bit method.
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This is the best video I've ever seen on this method. Thank you!
These are great! They've worked every time I've used them.
The first method shown was spot on and saved me hundreds of pounds, after overtightening an M6 fastener that snapped on my egr valve. thanks
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thank you!!! Bought a rifle with a broken stud in the rear sight!!! You saved me the fee to have the gunsmith do it! Thank you! Thank you!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
or use gradually larger bolts to thin out the walls of the bolt so eventually it can be removed in pieces. i do appreciate your videos. sending this one especially to an australian friend of mine. who has a broken exhaust bolt on a motorcycle he needs to remove
I Snapped A Spindle On My BMX, This Video Is Awesome, And I'm Blessed To Say That My Broken Bolt Is Leveled With The Entrance Of The Crank.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you, thank you SO much for all your videos, especially this one. I have just removed a small bolt completely sheared off, by following your video. I have all the tools, I just needed your guidance. Please don't give up your video's, they're a God send and I can't thank you enough! 📏🪥🔨🪚🪛🛠️😊
Brilliant, well done 👍
Thanks for posting. This explains everything with great detail. Looks like separate bits and center punch is the way to go.
Glad it was helpful 👍
Show me with a rusted bolt that's totally inaccessible up in the rear frame of my land cruiser...
Dave Lassell or in a rusted outboard motor with corrosion all all, nevertheless still a very good video......
if the bolt head snapped off it's because it was in there so tight it took less torque to break the bolt than the thread seal.
What a pointless comment. It goes without saying that the bolt needs to be accessible for this, or any other method, to work.
Same issue with me and a few rusted bolts on my Xterra I just recently bought. Bolt head snapped on surface or below the surface that go to the undercarriage.
You have to drill it right out in that situation. Then re tap the thread. Your going back to the 1970's when we used to do that a lot as we kept cars 40 years.
the reason an eazy out is not the best answer is it creates expansion and hench causes additional pressure to the thread surface thus defeating the removal attempt.the left handed drill is a little known and seldom used quick answer,smart stuff.I would have used a little larger bit as it relieves even more side wall pressure but you really have to have your center and bit alignment correct if your take the tolerances closer.Nice job you just made many people's lives easier.
I just unscrew an m5x16mm mtb cleat bolt using this method. Thank you for sharing this. It really worked!!!
Glad it helped 👍
I used to work in the toolroom at a plastic injection molding facility. Removing broken hardware is a huge part of the job. By far the worse thing to remove from a blind hole is a broken dowel pin. I was just going to say that you can get easy-outs in sets. They have the appropriate size left-hand drill with them. Most often, the broken stud comes out with the drill and you don't even need the easy-out.
So I see some doubters here, I've been doing marine and industrial repair and maintenance for close to 40 years now and I have a set of extractors and Left Hand cobalt bits in my box. They've saved a lot of work, and made a lot of believers. Drilling the bolt relieves the stress using the LH bit means all of the torque is trying to twist the bolt out and gives you a head start on the easy-out. And yes it works on rusty and bi-metallic corrosion and if you're lucky even on galled SS. Don't count on the last.
Thanks for the detailed comment ;-)
Wish I had known this about a month ago...thanks for the info
Julie Drzymalski
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
What type of drill should I use for an anti clockwise rotation?
done many stud extractions but never knew left handed drill bits existed! thanks!
I know several maintenance engineers that have never heard of them either. I told one a few days back and he thought I was winding him up!
Thanks for the comment
This video doesn't show a real situation but it does actually work. I drill a hole through the bolt first and then step with a LH bit. The first hole warms the bolt up so that when you use the LH bit it will shake things loose
Gr8 Vid , never heard of a left hand drill bit . Thanks for sharing .
Brilliant! Thank you for the upload, I for one appreciate it. Cheers.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Straight forward. Good video! Many thanks. You helped save me over $100 and much headache.👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
You also can use left handed tapered stud extractors instead of a drill. Standard tool.
@@adityakumarrai7691 Of course. But you still need to bore a hole to start the extractor. Using a left-handed drill bit will work with you, not against you, even if it fails to spin out the broken bolt or stud.
I'm impressed. I thought you were just gonna drill it out but this way is safer. I hadn't even thought of this.
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
You are the man....keep up the great work.....
thanks for posting this helpful video.
Love youre accent man, great vids!
Sweden
Great video. I broke a exhaust manifold stud off in the head of my 03' F150 and it was hell trying to find LH drill bits! Finally found a 13 piece set at Harbor Freight. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend.
How'd it go 10 years ago?
Word is he is still trying to remove that bolt.
He appears to still be a car guy, so I’m assuming success 😅
@@heavyprogressive76 Well, I just got the Harbor Freight 13 piece set, and my right angle drill attachment can't grip the cylinder shaft well enough. Wish it was a hex end...
Thanks for sharing knowledge.
Wow I never knew they made left handed drill bits, I use a similar tecnique with a right hand bit, but with a left hand bit a could double my productivity, thanks for the vid
Me either
I need to get broken lug nuts out of my bmw e30. Is it best to start with a smaller big then increase size? Do you apply pressure when drilling? What is the chance this will work since you says it only works sometimes? Is it better if i put a lube on the sides to have a better chance that it will work?
So I'm workin on replacing the rear leaf springs on my jeep and i sheared a bolt that bolts into the frame and i can't really see the stud to drill in to it what you recomend i do to get the bolt out the left handed bit or a screw extractor?
nice..in my case i have a broken head BUT its for a screw and not a bolt. so there is already a hole on the shaft. i cannot use vise grips to the the sides becoz the exposed screw is kinda deep. what do u recommend in that case. do i have to drill? or can i just use a extractor tool to directly and reverse? any ideas. thanks
I recently broke an exhaust manifold stud on my race car. Seeing as how I have a race this weekend, I may try this technique. I'm going to make sure I take my time with this though, as I do not want to cause further damage. Any tips?
Never to old to learn , never heard of left handed drill bit . Great video -thanks
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
Thank you handyman you are always brilliant. So to double confirm we need to spin the drill anti-clockwise when using the left hand drill bit?
Yes, anti-clockwise for a left handed drill bit
Thanks for the comment 👍
would it be okay to tap a new hole in a bolt that is fully ceased in a hole that the original bolt broke off in?
Nice information but only for mild steel bolt but if it is hardned pl also suggest if u have any idea
nice, know i'll be looking for left handed drills each time i go to the hardware store ^^, ohh and nice drill by the way, haven't seen good quality drills in quite a while!
Would this work on a rounded drain plug?
Thanks I've just bought some centre drills and a set of left handed drill bits... I have some M6 bolts sheared in aluminium to fix, fingers crossed :D
Trigger HappyTV Good luck with it ;-)
Did it work?
Would this work for hardened screws? And what size bit would i get for a 5mm screw?
hi, is it possible that the bolt is just to strong to actually "drill" it out?and in that case what can i do?
Thank you, Mr Ultimate Handyman 😍 I need to get a broken bent screw out of a bike frame. It was a screw for the kickstand. This I believe would work but was just wondering if you had any other easier ideas at all???? Thank you so much 💖
There are plenty of things that you can try, these videos might give you some ideas-
th-cam.com/video/MR2Dd30Wees/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/dJfkCj3FWBs/w-d-xo.html&t
Best of luck with it 👍
i WAS going to ask you almost the same question. albeit in a more polite way seems all of your videos are set up like this. BUT this to me is youtubes treasure trove of howtos for situations like this. thank you sir. btw may i ask , if this technique does not work, can a person weld a piece of small rod to the end of hte broken bolt, and then remove bolt by some other means?, vise grip pliers or some other tool if the easy-out doesnt work.
I have many years of working on different types of machines . The best way if you have a welding machine weld a nut to the broken bolt or stud. after it cools down spray on penetrating oil and wiggle the bolt until it starts to move.
If you have stainless steel to stainless steel and the bolt has frozen you are going to probably have to drill and re-tap the threaded hole.
Do you have an idea how to do this if the bolt is really stuck ?
Drill wider and wider exactly in the middle until there's nothing left of the bolt but the threads, then pull the helical threads out with a dental pick.
@@beyondwhatisknown I hope he found a way to get his stick bolt out...
😂🤣🤣
@@premkumara8962 8 years later😂😂
Lmao
Thanks man, I spent almost 2 hours looking for someone to get it out and the only one who said he could wanted me to pay 40 $ !!!! and he was going to cut or burn or I do not know...
using your method it only took around 3 minutes :)
I just saved 40 $ and a long time of waiting and and and... thanks to you.
Thanks for the video. One question. Should the bit used to drill the starter hole be smaller than the reverse drill bit or should they be the same size?
Hi, it should be smaller.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman does the reverse drill bit spin counter clockwise
@@speedracer175 Yes, it needs rotating counter clockwise for the drill bit to work ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman can I also drill the initial hole counter clockwise? Before the extraction drill.
@@speedracer175 Yes, providing you use a left-handed drill bit
Great video.
With a left handed drill bit inserted into drill, do you keep your drill set on the tightening position(right/clockwise rotation)?
I have an 8mm bolt which I will be trying to extract either later today or tomorrow.
No, you use a left handed drill bit in reverse. If you are lucky it will bite into the bolt and remove it.
Thanks for the comment
@ Ultimate Handyman
That's actually what I was thinking, keep in in the reverse setting. Wanted to double check that, just wasn't quite sure.
Thank you kindly for your response and assistance!
Nice presentation, thank you!
You are welcome 👍
Would you recommend this method over an easyout?
I have an M6 bolt with bimetal corrosion snapped off flush with an aluminium engine cover. Probably the toughest one I've had to deal with yet. (Bike is japanese obviously).
Yes, I would always try this method first.
Eastouts tend to spread the bolt wedging it against the thread, if you are going to use an easyout you will have to drill it, so why not use a left hand drill bit, it might come out as you are drilling it, actually it is highly probable.
gogogeedus +1
i love your accent and your tools...
maybe one day i will have a house/wife/kids a car, and a garage with big boys toys... then i will remember your lesson.
thank you in advance :)
Do you have a house/wife/kids and a car yet. And a garage with big boy toys??
@@SitlessSkatemore question still relevant in the age of the cough
Why is this recommended to me? But still interesting, what about the good old nut wielding to the bolt? Should work out as well,or not?
excellent video, very helpful!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
can you use this with a hex chuck adapter on an impact driver? a lot of them say they can only be used clockwise.
It should be fine, as there is not a huge amount of torque being generated.
Thanks for the comment
this is really help for me as I ride a bmx and brake bolts alot
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I've got to try and remove a snapped brake disc retaining screw so could you tell me what size drill and centre drill I will need for a M8x 1.25 or M6x1.25 screw/bolt.
You can do it without the centre drill as long as the drill bits are sharp.
I'd go for a 6mm frill bit for the M8 bolt and 5mm drill bit for the M6 bolt, both left handed of course.
I've been machining various things for more years than I care to remember. I have never seen, or even heard of a left handed drill before I watched your video! Quite true, so thanks for enlightening me. Apart from stud removal, what else are they used for?
Guess we’ll never know...
But this is basic
theyre the normal ones in australia
they have no other purpose other than removing slipped/broken bolts.
Should the drill bit be same size as bolt?
Where can I get a Centre drill bit and left handed drill bit from in the UK? Thanks
yeah,got me some lefty drills and keep them with my screw extracters so as not to mix them with my regular bits...but you're correct, plenty of times the fastener will come out using just the lefty bit!
They are really useful ;-)
Thanks for the comment
good job mate - thanks for the video
+000Troy000 L You are welcomeThanks for the comment ;-)
get a left handed tap and die kit. You can put a left hand thread on the inside of the bolt. The put in a new left threaded bolt into the new thread. When it hit the hardened metal at the bottom, keep going and you will pull out the old bolt
Brilliant idea
Will this work on a broken sway bar bolt. Buying a truck that they welded the sway bar back cause the bolt snapped.
Yes, it should do.
You might need to warm it first, and apply spray penetrant 👍
another one is to use a center punch on the out board edge and tap lightly counterclockwise.I've had good luck with this if the bolt is not rusty.another thing about counter drilling,it depends on the metal Rockwell.if it is grade 8 or more most bits just overheat and won't cut the steel.for sure metal can't argue with abrasives!
that's a sexy trick! I'll be giving it a try tomorrow as i broke off a rusty bolt in an old drill press base I'm trying to bring back to life. Not sure where to get a left handed drill. I'm pretty sure the Home Depot crew will look at me like i have a 3rd eye but I'll give it try tomorrow.
thanks,
Ok question is there a left hand drill bit or is he just drill in reverse? I ask cause I'm now dealing with a broken bolt that I can't weld a nut on the end as it snapped inside the exhaust manifold.
There are left hand drill bits. They have the spiral on them going around the bit in the opposite direction. You have to put the drill into reverse in order to drill with them. You can generally buy left hand bits at large hardware stores oriented toward supplies for machinists and metalworkers. They are unusual and obscure, but they are out there!
VERY GOOD VIDEO
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!! Haha really helpful!
Not needed now,but very VERY useful information Thnx.
Winston Smart
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks useful .
Thanks !! Great Video!
+Hawaiian F150
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman What if it's a bolt in a car engine block with the engine still in would the engine have to be pulled out..
hi what the name of the drill bit that you use after the center punch put a mark into the metal the drill bit with a point on both ends
Centre drill- th-cam.com/video/_uS_8D2K64A/w-d-xo.html
hi what the name of the drill bit you use to start the hole with after u put a center punch marking into the bolts and is the other drill bit left hand drill bit too
I used a centre drill to start the hole, these are regular right handed centre drills.
th-cam.com/video/_uS_8D2K64A/w-d-xo.html
I then used the left handed drill bit to extract the bolt.
Thanks for the comment
It's also known as a self-centering drill bit. The small bit in front acts as a pilot drill.
what the name of the first drill bit you used with point on both ends of it or where can i buy one from
Centre drill, they are widely used in machine shops etc.
th-cam.com/video/_uS_8D2K64A/w-d-xo.html
fave.co/3uRYCCs
Thanks for the comment 👍
Why not just start with the left bit after the center punching??
Nice demo
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Awesome video. Would you be able to make a video on the different type of bits you use on certain surfaces and how to keep your bits from getting worn down. Thank you!
Worked thank you
Could you make suggestions for a steel bolt corroded into an aluminum spindle housing on a mower.
If you have a welder, that is your best bet-
th-cam.com/video/l-BxjWhqaQo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment
Hmm, I would like to see this done in a same scenario basis.. I.E. Rusted bolt in a threaded bit of old steep with a stainless steel bolt.
As an engineer by trade I have found that this method generally doesn't work, the easiest solution is to use molycote or anti-seize compound on the threads before tightening/torquing the fixing.
I prefer to weld a nut on the broken bolt and pull it out, or ld drill it out and tap the hole again, broken bolts cause flat threads (amongst other things)
What do you do if you don't have a welder and you need to put your only vehicle back together? Hopefully that I put a crap load of anti-seize grease helps in using a left handed drill to back it out
What size left handed drill bit should I use for a car bleeder valve screw?
Not sure, the last time I bled brakes it was a 11mm spanner, so perhaps a 5mm drill bit?
great vid! subbed!
thanks, this will be help me to remove my stripped hex
In the USA, these bits are readily available from you local auto parts store or tool truck.
Yes, they are a bit spendy, ranging from $50 - 150 or there abouts.
Do an online search for these examples:
NAPA sells VG 11119 & VG 11135ZR kits made by Vise-Grip; stocked at a local DC. Other auto parts stores should also be able to get them.
For bits only, DBLS105 by Blue Point & DMCLM5 by Matco are other examples.
I would think these would also be available at your local hardware store, but I've had no luck.
Can you still use this method if you can't see the bolt but you know for sure it's there? Mine broke off due to over-torquing.
You need to drill as close to the centre of the stud as possible- that's difficult if you can't see it?
It worked!!! This saved me so much time! I highly recommend this method. Even if your exhaust manifold studs are 21+ years old! Thanks so much!
will this work on my scooter? the spring broke and its horribly annoying, the brake drags on the back wheel which makes loud noises, any help?
Do you have any recommendations for good left handed drill bits to drill out broken bolts?
Sealy make half decent tools- fave.co/3aIvrJ7
Unfortunately none of the big players such as Heller or Dormer seem to make left handed bits.
@@ultimatehandyman Cheers mate. I was looking to see if Heller made them earlier , I was wasting my time then. I managed to get my nemesis screw out with a centre punch and a hammer in the end, another one of your videos taught me that one I think! Cheers.
What do you call that spring punch I'm looking to buy one thanks
I think you mean a spring tool centre punch-
th-cam.com/video/fjBu-tWdqoc/w-d-xo.html
I have a broken screw stuck inside..it has loctite inside..can I use a LH drill bit to get it out? Or do I need to use a screw extractor to get it out?
Try left handed drill bit first. If that does not work, then try the screw extractor 👍
Thank you..will try it out
Since the other side is open, could you pull from the other side if you had room?
Yes, of course. This was just set up as a demonstration
Great video. For some applications this would work great(such as sheared off bolts). A left handed drill bit would never be able to remove a bolt which is seized in an engine block. Think about the amount of force it takes to get the head of a strong hex bolt(Usually grade 5) to twist off. The drill bit strength will not even come close. I have had broken bolt extractors break on me in the past, a few times. I just uploaded a video showing my solution to a recent problem.
Where's the link to you're video.
Copy & paste to the YT search box.
watch?v=Y2AN3vl-ykg
electronicsNmore
As a forty year professional mechanic, I can sat you are correct. Yesterday I was extracting a broken exhaust manifold bolt from a 4.8L GM engine. It was broken flush. It's a rare occasion that a left handed drill bit will back the bolt out.
One must first consider why is the bolt broken. Is it cross threaded, rusted, bottomed out?
Most of those conditions is going to prevent backing it out with a left handed bit. What is worse, breaking off a drill bit or an easy out because those are hardened and makes drilling them out almost impossible.
On the 4.8 L yesterday, it was just a whore. It was an 8 X 1.25 and I finally ended up drilling it out and Heli-coiled it to a 10 X 1.25 Fortunately is was a Savana Van and I was working on #7 cylinder. I had removed the motor mount bolts and lifted the engine to give me good access. It ended up being a good permanent repair and will outlast the life of the vehicle.
What people are not factoring in here is that *if* the drill is almost as large as the root diameter of the bolt, rather than as shown here, (in my experience) the remnants will not have enough strength left to hold themselves outwards against the female thread. Generally what's left of the bolt (effectively little more than a helical coil) will wind itself out if you feed increasingly hard so the drill bites before it gets right through. The heat from drilling also helps.
If you don't have a left handed bit the right size, just sharpen the tip of a RH bit the wrong way.
can you do the video again with the bolt seized into something see if it works then? thanks
Where can you get them bits
HELP! I was drilling into the bolt and it just stopped drilling. the bit is still rotating but it wont go in further. ive tried several new bits and they still wont drill any further. have any clue whats happening?
yeah.. how often are they that large and flat
Great channel!
Thanks 👍
Do you operate the drill in forward or reverse with the left handed bit?
Reverse
Thanks for the comment 👍
Ultimate Handyman thanks
How about if the bolt is glued by c8 how you will removed it, is this procedure will work?
Heat it first, using a blowtorch 👍
The drill i was using was 1500rpm max. I used a 3000rpm max drill and it worked. So i was just using a crappy drill. thanks for the help
Ok. So where do you find left handed drill bits?