Making an R8 Hex Collet Block
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Im trying out a new camera, and making up a hex collet block for holding stock in the R8 collets I have so I can use them on the shaper and mill for holding parts to machine them. I also show a few improvements to the gingery dividing head that Ive done to help improve it.
Joe's channel Myheap:
/ @myheap
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After spending 41 years as a freight car repairman, I knew instantly what that “stock” was at the beginning of the video! Their only purpose is to keep the knuckle in the coupler when it’s in the uncoupled position. These things are 5 points harder than the back of Superman’s head!
lol, yea, they are defenitely hard to no end. Ive had one that carbide wouldnt even touch, it just sparked out the carbide and ate the edge off of the insert, so since then, Ive always annealed them and they make great tools out of, lol.
Nice! Turned out quite accurate by the sound of it!
yea, by cutting the hex between centers on the dividing head, it made all the difference in precision.
That'll prove its weight in gold as far as handy goes. From looking around your shop there you know what the form factor of handy is. keep it up! thanks
lol, yea, it'll defenitely come in handy for future projects, lol. I had a few that needs to have a round shank of it held to cut slots and such in it, and got tired of V blocks moving on me, so this should work much much better for holding it down to the mill and shaper table.
Gday Chirpy, very nice job mate,
thank you Matty, I just finished watching your latest video and it looks like your indxer is coming along really nicely.
first time watching your channel and me likes.
thank you, and I hope you find some other stuff that you find interesting also.
Exceptional Good work!!!
Thank you, and thanks for stopping in and watching.
Nice job sir!!!
Thank you, it defenitely should work for everything I would need it for, and being made from 1060, it should hold up for quite a long time, long after my lifetime, lol.
What is the angle for the taper and how deep it goes in ?
it goes in a hair over an inch, and the angle, it's around 8 degrees on the compound slide, but I just stuck some round bar in the tailstock drill chuck and indicated the angle off of that. On some collets, there's two angles, you want the one closest to the face since when you tighten it up, thats the one that gets pulled in on.
That came out good . I have had to resharpen masonary bits as well to get through hard stuff . Cheers .
yea, but they do work pretty well in a pinch, lol. The collet block should defenitely come in handy for future projects, expecially like making hex heads on things like bolts and for holding work pieces for my projects I work on, lol.
8.5 degrees 1" long taper correct ?
I honestly dont remember, I just indicated it off of the R8 collet that I had.
Awesome I have to make one of these soon cause I can only afford the r8 collets I already have.
R8 collets are pretty nice, I use them on all of my machines around the shop, and as long as you are only dealing with shorter pieces than 4" long, or dont need through hole capabilities, they are perfect, lol. Ive used the collet block a few times and it has been very handy to have.
@@ChirpysTinkerings r8 is what my mill is my little lathe can't use any but I am building one and I will make it r8 capable
My little lathe is a 6 inch atlas very limited.
@@ronaldcrowder404 oh, cool. Mine has a MT4 taper in it and I just made an MT4 t R8 adapter sleeve, which works really well.
@@ronaldcrowder404 yea, smaller lathes like that usually dont have that much capacity.
What year is your Monarch Jr lathe? I have one from early 20 s. Nice project video, I have the C-4 collet set for it.
Thanks, from the serial number, the best I can figure out on my lathe was made between 1910 and 1916. Due to the model number, Im looking at around 1913 tho from what Ive been able to figure out. My lathe has a MT4 taper in the headstock, and I found a cheap but good set of R8 collets for a mill, so made a MT4 to R8 adapter and I still use the R8 collets in my lathe even today, lol. (it hasnt had the chuck on in a few weeks because of just using the collets for everything, lol)
I like using the R8 stuff because I dont need through hole capabilities really, and so I only need one set of collets for every machine in the shop, rather than having to have a pile of different collets for everything, lol.
Yes, I notice they don’t sit flat myself, it makes sense to sit flat so I shocked to see they don’t. I had the same solution as you, make my own R8 block. 😁
Cool, the R8 collets are used almost univerally in most most machines in my shop, so saves on needing multiple types of collets too.
Did it maybe tweek a little from having the sides flattened? Maybe internal stress?
I didnt really see that it moved really, but I did let it sit to stress relieve a bit after each step, mainly because with joe here, I didnt get time to get out to the shop to work on it, lol. I had the thing fully annealed and was making sure to remove the material off of both sides of it equally so the stresses from machining it wouldnt cause it to go banana also. I was thinking of getting it hardened and I did leave a bit of extra material on it, so it can be surface ground if need be later on after hardening.
I enjoyed your video. I have made a four sided 5c for sharpening 2 & 4 flute end mills, and was going to make a hex, for sharpening 3 & 6 fluted end mills, but never got around to it.
Cool, when I made my indexer for the T&C grinder, I made it for 12 positions, that way I could do 1,2, 3, 4, 6 and 12 positions, but I think over 4 flute, they get a bit difficult to sharpen due to not having the room for clearance angles of the wheel.
nice build, will be a handy tool addition and proud ownership/build in your shop
thank you, and it'll definitely open a lot of possibilities in work holding on the shaper and mill, lol.
Hey, my lathe is similar to yours!
Cool, mine's a monarch jr.
Good video Chirpy, too bad about the camera sound problems. But is wasn't to bad. A nasty back ground sound track would have been a lot worse. I think a 12 sided collet block might have been even more useful.
yea, but then the flats arent as wide and it'll have less contact when trying to clamp/hold it.
You just need a bigger railway spike :)
lol, that was a knuckle pin, not a spike, lol. The knuckle pins have much much harder steel, so you make something from it and it'll almost never wear out in daily use unlike the mild/low carbon steel that spikes are made of, lol.
That's good! I made a collet chuck from some scraptonium a long time ago. After tightening the nut the collet slits were visible in the collet taper.
yea, you want to use something hardenable or at least pretty hard, or the taper will wear out pretty quickly after a short while, thats why for this stuff, Ive been using the knuckle pins. Before annealing, they're hard enough to cause carbide inserts to just spark out on contact and just burn up the carbide inserts. After annealing, it machines really nicely with carbide, but you have to really really beat on it to get it to leave a mark on it.
Heck of a job !
Thanks man. Ive used that collet block a few times since I made that video and for those few jobs, it was invaluable. It feels like a lifetime ago since I made that thing up, lol.
Nice build. That will come in real handy...
Watching in Alabama
thanks, and yea, it will definitely come in handy. I had a question for you, your dovetail cutter, how often do you need to swap out the inserts in it from them going dull?
I cut dovetails in enough stock to make 10 BXA tool holders and on the second cut of first cutter it needs to be moved over to the third cut now . And I use the cheap china RISHET TPGB 321 C5 inserts .These are $24 for 10 inserts. The US & Japanese ones are about $7 to $12 each
oh, OK, I was just asking to see how much they wear out because I don't have any of those, but a bunch of the brazeable ones, so thought of just brazing one on to make a dovetail cutter. thanks for the reply.
Thanks, Since my Mill uses R8 I have a good set of R8 collets, but never thought about making these holder blocks until seeing this.
This should be a fun little project.
Ive used that collet block quite a bit since making it, and it really has come in handy for work holding. Ive also made an MT4 to R8 adapter sleeve for my lathe, which I use all the time. The lathe is actually still set up with an R8 collet in it because I was just using it to hold some threaded parts I was working on.
Hey Chirp the book will delivered on Tuesday enjoy
OK, I'll get that sent out to him then. Thank you so much, I really appreciate it and everything that you've sent.
Morning Chirpy - good stuff!
_Dan_
thanks Dan, it'll definitely come in handy for holding round stock for milling it, lol.
Could you sell those like on petrion or something? You can't buy those that I know of only the 5C holders. Because I would love to make one my little machines are too small.
I dont plan on selling anything like that, that was just a one off project to make the tools that I needed, and that was it. Technically, it doesnt need to be that long, it can actually be made in two parts so the back end goes right after the end of the collet, just use a washer and bolt on it instead so it sticks out the back.
Like your work.. Dumb question why do you say acrosst and not across. is it a machinist thing because i hear ACROSST on all of the machinist youtube videos i watch.. i went as far to look it up and i came up empty... can you shed some insight.. thank you..
once again i like your work... and im not being disrespectful.....
its just a speech/dialect thing really, I've always known it as acrossed, as with most people instead of across.
Very nicely done, I really like using collet blocks. The counterbored end is a good idea. I have an extra (very cheap) 5C block set that I use when holding small rods and things vertically in the bench vise for filing, polishing and finishing threads etc. Excellent for holding tiny things when slitting ends on the bandsaw too. Thanks for the video.
Yea, I looked at 5c stuff, but my spindle bore was too small to fit a 5c collet in my lathe without making a custom chuck and everything, then after looking around, I found the R8 collets were perfect for what I wanted, and Ive used them quite a bit off camera and they're worth thier weight in gold, expecially for doing smaller work, which I was never able to do before.
You mentioned a new camera and crappy sound. Did you just get a V50X, too :P
lol, I got this fujifilm camera that looked like it had good video quality, which was about the only thing it had going for it really, lol. The thing shuts off randomly due to only being able to record short clips, cant accept cards over 16GB, so you have to keep bringing the card in to dump the video off on the computer so you can get enough room to finish a video, sound is bad in alot of places because it picks up everything and causes the audio levels to blow out, and autofocus is non existant, you move the camera and you have to stop the video clip and restart it to get the camera to re-focus.
It was defenitely an exercise in patience trying to use that stupid thing, lol. One of these days, Ill just get a good camera and be done with it, but I think for now, Im going back to my old camera, lol.
Yes, you can grind a masonry drill-bit into a spade drill of sorts... I am surprised it held up though, as that carbide is a lot bigger grained than the regular stuff we use for cutting metal.
Good idea when one finds oneself in a pinch though...
Toodles !
Paddy
yea, it doesnt hold up as well as the carbide insert carbide, but it does work for metal as long as you take it easy and dont try shoving it through the material.
very cool. nice to make nice tools for yourself
lol, yea, and that one is defenitely a useful one, lol. I was wanting one to be able to hold some future projects, and didnt really want to just hold it in the vise using V blocks and hoping it didnt spin or something from not being able to grip it the tightest, and ruining the part. With this, I can really just clamp it down and I should be good to go, lol.
I can't find those power hacksaw blades anywhere, could you please post a link to where you found one
Sorry for the late reply, your comment didnt come through till now. I actually found them on amazon, just look up starrett power hacksaw blades. You just need to know the TPI count you want and the length of the blade your saw uses, like mine is 10TPI and 12" blade.
Could you please upload the spindle protector to thingiverse?
It is, look under the user cae2100.
@@ChirpysTinkerings thanks 😊
I'm thinking of 3D printing a collet block for quick not precision work
@@henritheron3050 np
@@henritheron3050 I dont think a 3d printed part would hold up to the stresses without bowing and deforming of use tbh. If you can machine a bolt up, usually you can use that as a crude collet block, just get the bolt centered perfectly to put the taper in it and you can use the hex head as a flange, then just use that with a square on the flats to index it.
Hi Chirpy, the masonry bits a great idea. I'll remember that tip. Regards MachineNZ
yea, it works pretty good for drilling out stubborn studs and bolts that get broken off. It isnt the highest grade of carbide, but will hold up perfectly fine for drilling stuff out as long as you resharpen them before you use them because they come pretty dull as with most cemented carbide stuff that you buy.
How about a picture of your grind?
just the same grind as a normal 118 degree metal cutting drill bit, but is relieved as usual behind the carbide.
Nicely done 🙂. The struggle is real with them lantern style tool posts, you did well utilizing it 😁.
Looks like you make a lot of your own tooling, gonna have to check out some more of your vids. Thanks for the vid 😊.
Ive honestly never had any trouble with my lantern toolpost really, I did a few modifications to it when I had first gotten it, but after that, it has held up and has worked very well for me. There's also a few modifications you can do using them that makes it as rigid or more rigid as a qctp really, but finding the tooling to fit in it is the hardest part, hence why I make alot of my own tooling. Thank you for stopping in and watching.
@@ChirpysTinkerings I thought using that large long boring bar in that tool post would have really been a challenge too. But it works for you!
If you take the rocker part out of the tool post and flip the rocker ring upside down, then shim the tool up to center height, it makes for a very rigid tool. Thats what I had to the boring bar in this case because the rocker made the boring bar too high above center height, but usually the lantern tool post can be pretty rigid with the right tooling and setup on it's own with just a few minor modifications.
Great project Chirpy. Thanks for having me and my wife for a visit. We had a great time!!!
Joe
thanks man, and you know that everyone here had an absolute blast too, lol.
Nicely made. That's gonna be useful.
lol, yea, I know, thats why I was wanting one, lol. I was needing something to be able to hold the work to build a few tools and cutters, and a friend was wanting to see how it was made because he wants to make some, so I made it up, lol. I also still had the taper set up for the R8 taper, so figured it was a better time than none to make it, lol.
I thought the sound was fine for the most part.
yea, the sound was acting up and alot of it had to be edited out, autofocus was almost non existant and was being a pain, and I had to come in and dump the video files off on the computer twice because the camera wouldnt accept a larger size memory card, just trying to talk, it just felt like I was blowing out the audio levels, and camera shut off after a short while because there's a set limit on how long it can record, so I'd be trying to record and it'd constantly shut off. In other words, that thing is getting used only for photos, lol.
@@ChirpysTinkerings what would be better, a go pro or ???
I'm not really sure tbh, I'm not really into all of the videography stuff, just enough to record a video with my camera really, lol.
Interesting video, do yourself a favor and get an air compressor to blow the chips away (looked unprofessional).
Thank you for your concern, but I make it a point not to use compressed air on my machines. I rebuild machinery and have seen far too many times where people have used compressed air, only to blow chips and metal bits into gearing, then it binds up and busts the gear teeth, then I end up having to fix it. So I dont use compressed air in my shop.
HEY! You have mail at AA. You HAVE GOT TO SEE THIS!
I'll look when I get to the computer again, I don't have it on this tablet.
very nice collet block great taper good work
Thank you, it did turn out pretty nice in the end and should defenitely be handy for projects for the future, lol.
Great video thanks! At what degree is the taper of the R8 Collet?
Around 8 1/2 degrees, it's easy enough to look up the dimensions and everything online, and you usually want to set up an r8 collet in the chuck or something and just indicate the angle off of it anyhow to get everything spot on.
@@ChirpysTinkerings thank you very much I appreciate the help. 😊
@@Ronell4021 no problem.
I'd be very interested to see what you come up with for a steady rest!
it'll probably just be welded together out of some pipe and scrap tbh. Ive tried casting one out but just had nothing but headaches with it and the design of it, lol.
great job,enjoyed watching
Thanks doug, and thanks for stopping in and watching.
Hi Chirpy I’m curious why you would take a piece of all thread and weld a nut on it then face it and center drill it just to get a bolt. When you could just get a bolt turn the head off a bit and center drill and bingo all done.🤔
I live 30-45 mins from the nearest place that sells nuts and bolts like that, and R8 collets use a 7/16" fine thread stud to draw them into the spindle/block/holder. I had some 7/16" fine threaded rod and a nut, so just welded it on rather than just having to run out to grab a custom bolt when I have the stuff here already.
@@ChirpysTinkerings Besides I think he is cheap too. Who wants to buy bolts anyway.
lol, if I were going into town, I'd worry about it, but the cost of gas to go get one and the cost to buy one, it is more than it'd take for 10 cents of welding wire and stuff I had sitting around anyhow, lol.
Thanks for replying, so now I understand and it’s a very valid reason. I sometimes forget that maybe other people don’t have a collection as large as I do. Would you mind sharing your approximate location, I can understand if you don’t. Thanks for sharing your videos 👍
I rather not give my location out, too many crazies out there anymore, lol.
Very interesting Well done Chirpy!
Thanks tinker
The Flintstones ' workshop 😉 unstoppable 👍👍👍
lol, thanks I think, lol. My machines are definitely old, but they were made when machines were built right and built to last.
@@ChirpysTinkeringsmy job is cnc machinist,but I find it much more satisfying to use the machines my old ones used
cool, I used to work in the technology field and worked as IT repair, so when I got out, I didnt want anything to do with computers or technology again, so went as far on the scale from it as I could. I also rather use the old machines and actually use them than just programming something into a computer and letting it do it, which is ok for batch jobs, but for one off jobs for fixing things and making oddball parts, I find the old manual machines much better.
@@ChirpysTinkerings Well done,too much technology is really tiring
lol, thanks, and yea, I agree.
Sweet!
lol, thanks adam.