My family shitbox CRV has just snapped the driveshaft completely in two. This vid has enabled me to be more than confident I can do it myself. Cheers man. For anyone without a rattle gun, the torque figure I have for the front hub is around 180ftlbs.
I just replaced my crv driver side axle. Ordered parts/tools from amazon and it was a success. I spent roughly a little over a $100.00 compare to dealer quotes over $800.00 for parts/labor... thank you for your videos and replies when asked you a questions 😊👍!!
I've watched this as well as your other video's on the Honda and really appreciate the hard work you've put into them. I have my rear struts done now and feel ready to tackle the front as well as the transmission seals. Thanks again!
Thanks for this easy to follow video. I was experiencing vibrations under acceleration (especially around 60 to 70 mph) and after a bunch of research, I decided to replace both axles and the driver side seal. Vibration is completely gone now!
Followed your video to the T! Thank you for your insight, I would not have figured out the seating it to the transmission part on my own. You are very appreciates for taking the time to video and ahare this to the rest of us!!!! Thanks again!
You've heard it from hundreds of others - but here is my comment: EXCELLENT video - tells exactly what you need to know quickly without wasting my time. I watched another video on this subject, and the guy took two minutes to explain a detail that could have easily been said in 20 seconds. You're choreography of information, application and detail is excellent and concise - right to the point. I like how you speed up the video when you are removing nuts - who needs to waste time watching someone slowly remove a nut (we get how that's done). I was about to take the Honda to a garage to replace the axle, but after watching this, I did it myself. It went exactly as you said, except I had trouble getting the spring clip (C ring) to snap in and lock when putting the new one in. I needed a friend to help bang it in while I held it in place - then the clip snapped in. The replacement part came with one of those damper donuts on it but when we tried to put the axle in the donut hit the side of the transmission enough to prevent angling the axle to get it in. I cut the donut off. The car drives fine (so far!) with no noticeable vibration. THANK YOU for a video well done!!!
Great video, quick question though… when I pried the driver side shaft out on a 2015 CRV I had a ton of trans fluid spill out all over the place. I’ve never had that happen before on other vehicles, is this normal? I lost over a quart of oil and it’s the CVT fluid so it’s expensive. Maybe it was overfilled? Any help is appreciated!
Just add fluid to replace the lost oil and check the fluid level. Castrol ATF/CVT oil can be had at Walmart for under $25 for 4 quarts. Compatible with Honda's.
I believe this is what I need to do. You make it look so easy. It is recommended to service the transmission directly after, right? Also, what about the rear CV axles? Have you messed with those? 2004 Honda CRV here. I currently have a driveshaft on the way, so I'm trying to eliminate all possibilties of this wobble/shimmy. It certain is less intense with shaft disconnected, but still present from 40-50 mph.
There's nothing to service in a transmission except a fluid change ... if the fluid is no longer bright red. The vehicle serviced in this video is only FWD ... no rear CV axles. If you have wheel shimmy / wobble, check both your wheels and tires checked out at a local tire center. Wheels can be bent, tires out-of-round and a possible tire re-balancing may be in order.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, a fluid change is all I was alluding to. I currently have the propshaft out trying to eliminate possible sources. It greatly improved after doing that. That's why I was asking about rear CV axles. I'm troubleshooting my own. I've ordered a new shaft, as the Ujoints were tight and segmented in movement. But I'm wondering if I have something going on past that in the drivetrain. It is a wicked and really violent wobble, but only under hard acceleration.
Got it. Had a similar situation. After placing the vehicle on a lift with the transmission engage in drive, I could see the CV axle shifting in and out of the CV cup. Turned out it was a defective re-manufactured or rebuilt CV axle. Learned my lesson. These rebuilds suck! I now only buy new. Rebuilds are just re-lubed and re-booted with a bs lifetime warranty. Had similar problems with starter motors and alternators. Specifically Autozone with their DuraLast parts. Total garbage! Buy only from reputable OEM parts manufacturers. None of this re-packaged, lifetime warranty, re-built trash!
@@Sboizify Oreilly's ... but does it really matter that much ... wouldn't surprise me if they (Autozone, Oreilly's, NAPA, AdvanceAuto) complete with each other to bid for the best price from the same cheapo parts re-manufacturer.
I'm hoping to perform this repair on my girlfriend's 2017 HR-V. I can't seem to find any guides or videos for that application. Do know if there are any significant differences in the procedure for the HR-V?
my element has 186k miles and i am getting the shudder when accelerating to highway speeds. Can I let this continue to get worse without too much worry or is there a safety issue that would necessitate me replacing this as preventative maintenance?
Unless the car is pulling either to the left or right and is riding straight with the steering wheel centered ... then a wheel alignment would not be necessary.
Most Macpherson style suspensions dont need realignment when you work on them. Bet if you have the older CRV that uses the double wishbone style those almost always need realignment. So if you have 96-01 you'll probably need a realignment but if you have 02-20 then you can go without alignment.
Hey i am having vibrations at a few different speeds mostly 15-25 and 45-55. I had that seal replaced a while ago but the mechanic though that the vibration was actually the tires
Great vid and a bit late to the party but have you ever tried just replacing the spider and roller bearings? Does the bearing housing wear out ? Thanks again
Thanks! Are you referring to the bearings inside the housing or the pressed in bearings in the steering knuckle? If the in the knuckle, then yes, I've replaced them. Bearing wear usually caused by driving with unbalance wheels for too long. Here's two videos where I do it on a Toyota. Concept is the same with Honda's: th-cam.com/video/BW-yWLvIflU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DY3kczKU99T1FO1_ th-cam.com/video/1YXzlwpAbdQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VeN3G-Qv3_wkYEdS
Thanks for your comment. The puller is a relatively inexpensive tool and can be easily purchased at any auto parts retailer. The sealer / bearing installation kit is another story. They could be expensive locally. I've provided Amazon links to the tools in the "Show More" area of this video.
Thanks for the axle vids! Where do you recommend buying axle replacements from as OEM are $$$ and I've read many negatives about the new aftermarket parts?!
I was using two electric impact drivers. One is medium torque ... the other for high torque. They're Milwaukee M18 series 1/2" impact drivers. Do you want me to post the links to Amazon?
Where did you buy your axle? Basically is it a genuine Honda axle or aftermarket and how is it holding up? I read that these should be OEM but honda world quoted me $600 for the driver side axle and autozone is about $100.
Don't like autozone parts ... low quality. Good aftermarkets made by AdvanceAuto / Car Quest. Online, you can buy name brand aftermarkets (my preference is Cardone) via Amazon or rockauto.com.
@@hardlymovingpro I have a 2nd gen crv, 225/75/16 with steel rims and a 2 inch lift. When I put the jack next to the lower control arm and lifted the car on the frame of the body the wheel and rim are heavy that it stretched the cv axle and busted it. I tried other points but the cv axle is being stretched any ideas/thoughts of where I can safely lift it?
I have constant fail on Right hand side inner cv joint, starting with original after I replaced front suspension bushes etc I have replaced rear eng man, measured everything with old, even maybe I reversed drive shafts.
I've had repeated failures with replacement CRV axles as well. Bought the most expensive one that O'Reilly's sold that was not a rebuild. Problem solved.
I appreciate the video as I just bought a 2005 Honda CRV 4wd and have to do this exact repair. Did you replace the axle shaft assembly due to leaks or wear/noise? Thanks again. Nice job.
@@hardlymovingpro You are my "goto" source on my 2005 CRV. I'm a chevy guy but I have to tell you the 2005 CRV EX is a pretty cool car. I looked for 2 months to find one.
@@hardlymovingpro Would you recommend replacing the left and right sides (150,000 miles)? You only replaced it on the driver's side but not the passenger in your videos.
@@chad5618 This video is on how to replace the cv axle and the output shaft seal on the driver's side. CV axles are generally replaced one at a time. But I do have a video in my channel on how to replace the passenger side; that side uses a split axle where the replacement axle does not have a direct link to the transmission.
@@hardlymovingpro Ohhh, okay, makes sense now. I need to replace both sides, so I'll obviously do one side at a time. I just wanted to make sure I had all the parts before I get started. Thank you!
@@hardlymovingpro turned out to be 2 worn out tires in the back. Cupped or bowed and wobbly. Getting an alignment done and of course 2 new tires. Thanks for replying
Working on Honda's, I do a drain and fill every time the fluid gets a little dark and the shifting starts to act up. I use Valvoline's full synthetic ATF. Works very well. If you want high quality, IMHO, you can also use Idemitsu ... a Japanese OEM provider. AdvanceAuto carries them.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you I am planning to do a transmission fluid change on a honda just bought I thought I have to buy the fluid from honda according to some people but I don't have to do that anymore thank you so much like your content keep up the good work
Question: I hear a whising sound when press or step harder on the gas pedal on my 2002 crv. What would that be or how can I trace that sound? Thanks...
Opinions vary on the issue, but it is a very common thing for CRVs. Some people say it is the transmission, some say it is the throttle body making whistling sound when 1/2 way open. Mine was doing it since new and still does
It's a Honda. The CRV does not use a double wishbone suspension like on Honda's passenger cars. Similar to Toyota, the upper strut mount rotates on the upper spring seat which acts like a upper ball joint.
Nice job, my rock auto replacement CV joint was not shipped with a intermediate shaft (The piece that goes into the transmission, driver side. The directions say replace the old & put it on the new one???. WTF? Anyone?
The CRV in the video has a intermediate (inner) drive axle on the passenger side between the trans and a shaft bearing hanger. They usually don't wear out since there's no flexing going on. Just pop out the outer shaft away from the intermediate (inner) shaft with a pry bar and press the new outer shaft in.
![[Sub Thai] APT. - ROSÉ & Bruno Mars](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bYjhzP8x_uc/mqdefault.jpg)
5 years later & THIS tutorial continues have make the world a better place.
Thanks! Everygreen video. Keeps growing as it gets older.
My family shitbox CRV has just snapped the driveshaft completely in two. This vid has enabled me to be more than confident I can do it myself. Cheers man.
For anyone without a rattle gun, the torque figure I have for the front hub is around 180ftlbs.
Shouldn't have any problems doing it yourself if you follow the video.
I just replaced my crv driver side axle. Ordered parts/tools from amazon and it was a success. I spent roughly a little over a $100.00 compare to dealer quotes over $800.00 for parts/labor... thank you for your videos and replies when asked you a questions 😊👍!!
Glad it worked out for you! $800 dealer quote? Unbelievable!
Nice. I’m about to do the same. Glad you were successful. Hopefully i will be
your video saved me a ton of money. I was able to replace both my drive axles myself........thank you!!!
Great to hear!
I've watched this as well as your other video's on the Honda and really appreciate the hard work you've put into them. I have my rear struts done now and feel ready to tackle the front as well as the transmission seals. Thanks again!
Thanks! Glad you found the videos useful!
Simplest most easiest presentation ever. Great job!
Thanks!
Thanks for this easy to follow video. I was experiencing vibrations under acceleration (especially around 60 to 70 mph) and after a bunch of research, I decided to replace both axles and the driver side seal. Vibration is completely gone now!
I hear you. For some reason, CRV replacement axles can be a crap shoot. Had to replace 2 times to eliminate vibration!
Followed your video to the T! Thank you for your insight, I would not have figured out the seating it to the transmission part on my own. You are very appreciates for taking the time to video and ahare this to the rest of us!!!! Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
You've heard it from hundreds of others - but here is my comment: EXCELLENT video - tells exactly what you need to know quickly without wasting my time. I watched another video on this subject, and the guy took two minutes to explain a detail that could have easily been said in 20 seconds. You're choreography of information, application and detail is excellent and concise - right to the point. I like how you speed up the video when you are removing nuts - who needs to waste time watching someone slowly remove a nut (we get how that's done).
I was about to take the Honda to a garage to replace the axle, but after watching this, I did it myself. It went exactly as you said, except I had trouble getting the spring clip (C ring) to snap in and lock when putting the new one in. I needed a friend to help bang it in while I held it in place - then the clip snapped in. The replacement part came with one of those damper donuts on it but when we tried to put the axle in the donut hit the side of the transmission enough to prevent angling the axle to get it in. I cut the donut off. The car drives fine (so far!) with no noticeable vibration. THANK YOU for a video well done!!!
Thanks for sharing your experience doing it yourself! And appreciate your positive critique of this video!
One the easiest and best videos to follow. Great job, hope to see others in future.
Thanks for your comments and support!
Alright! Next project will keep you updated!
Thanks for your time and Knowledge!
I learned alot.
( 2011 honda Crv is my car. driver side)
Sounds great!
Awesome! love how you just keep it simple!
I like this channel a lot more than Scotty’s !!
Thanks for your support and comment!
Awesome job, very easy to follow!
Thanks!
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, quick question though… when I pried the driver side shaft out on a 2015 CRV I had a ton of trans fluid spill out all over the place. I’ve never had that happen before on other vehicles, is this normal? I lost over a quart of oil and it’s the CVT fluid so it’s expensive. Maybe it was overfilled? Any help is appreciated!
Just add fluid to replace the lost oil and check the fluid level. Castrol ATF/CVT oil can be had at Walmart for under $25 for 4 quarts. Compatible with Honda's.
Very helpful video clip
Thanks for your comment and support!
I believe this is what I need to do. You make it look so easy. It is recommended to service the transmission directly after, right? Also, what about the rear CV axles? Have you messed with those? 2004 Honda CRV here. I currently have a driveshaft on the way, so I'm trying to eliminate all possibilties of this wobble/shimmy. It certain is less intense with shaft disconnected, but still present from 40-50 mph.
There's nothing to service in a transmission except a fluid change ... if the fluid is no longer bright red. The vehicle serviced in this video is only FWD ... no rear CV axles. If you have wheel shimmy / wobble, check both your wheels and tires checked out at a local tire center. Wheels can be bent, tires out-of-round and a possible tire re-balancing may be in order.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, a fluid change is all I was alluding to. I currently have the propshaft out trying to eliminate possible sources. It greatly improved after doing that. That's why I was asking about rear CV axles. I'm troubleshooting my own. I've ordered a new shaft, as the Ujoints were tight and segmented in movement. But I'm wondering if I have something going on past that in the drivetrain. It is a wicked and really violent wobble, but only under hard acceleration.
Got it. Had a similar situation. After placing the vehicle on a lift with the transmission engage in drive, I could see the CV axle shifting in and out of the CV cup. Turned out it was a defective re-manufactured or rebuilt CV axle. Learned my lesson. These rebuilds suck! I now only buy new. Rebuilds are just re-lubed and re-booted with a bs lifetime warranty. Had similar problems with starter motors and alternators. Specifically Autozone with their DuraLast parts. Total garbage! Buy only from reputable OEM parts manufacturers. None of this re-packaged, lifetime warranty, re-built trash!
@@hardlymovingpro Where did you purchase yours? I can move the rear axles about 1 to 1.5 inches, both sides. From what I've read, that's too much?
@@Sboizify Oreilly's ... but does it really matter that much ... wouldn't surprise me if they (Autozone, Oreilly's, NAPA, AdvanceAuto) complete with each other to bid for the best price from the same cheapo parts re-manufacturer.
did you drain the oil transmission before replacing it ?
Not necessary.
Nice video - but what was the cost for a new shaft-a-rooney?
Usually under $100
Thank you very much for this video!!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I'm hoping to perform this repair on my girlfriend's 2017 HR-V. I can't seem to find any guides or videos for that application. Do know if there are any significant differences in the procedure for the HR-V?
There shouldn't be any significant differences.
my element has 186k miles and i am getting the shudder when accelerating to highway speeds. Can I let this continue to get worse without too much worry or is there a safety issue that would necessitate me replacing this as preventative maintenance?
Sounds like you have worn cv axles or lower control arm bushings
Did you do a wheel alignment after this? I would say it’s not needed, but hear conflicting answers?
Unless the car is pulling either to the left or right and is riding straight with the steering wheel centered ... then a wheel alignment would not be necessary.
I just replaced my passenger side axle on my 03 crv and I didn't need an alignment.
Most of the time you don't need to re-align.
Most Macpherson style suspensions dont need realignment when you work on them. Bet if you have the older CRV that uses the double wishbone style those almost always need realignment. So if you have 96-01 you'll probably need a realignment but if you have 02-20 then you can go without alignment.
Hey i am having vibrations at a few different speeds mostly 15-25 and 45-55. I had that seal replaced a while ago but the mechanic though that the vibration was actually the tires
Do you think its a good idea to replace both at once or will this more than likely fix the issue?
Bad out of round tires, even with good tread depth, can cause wheel vibration. Yoy need a road force tire check.
Great vid and a bit late to the party but have you ever tried just replacing the spider and roller bearings? Does the bearing housing wear out ? Thanks again
Thanks! Are you referring to the bearings inside the housing or the pressed in bearings in the steering knuckle? If the in the knuckle, then yes, I've replaced them. Bearing wear usually caused by driving with unbalance wheels for too long. Here's two videos where I do it on a Toyota. Concept is the same with Honda's: th-cam.com/video/BW-yWLvIflU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DY3kczKU99T1FO1_
th-cam.com/video/1YXzlwpAbdQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VeN3G-Qv3_wkYEdS
I wonder why the replacement doesn't come with that rubber donut in the middle of the shaft, my replacement didn't have it either.
It's just a add-on vibration dampener. I don't notice any difference without it.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you
Isn't this the passenger side driveshaft? Ah! Yes, you're correct. I live in UK so driving position is on opposite side. Forgot about that.
Nope. Left driver's side.
Great job thank you
Thanks for your comment and support!
Where did you purchase the seal puller and the kit good video brother did actually help me out
Thanks for your comment. The puller is a relatively inexpensive tool and can be easily purchased at any auto parts retailer. The sealer / bearing installation kit is another story. They could be expensive locally. I've provided Amazon links to the tools in the "Show More" area of this video.
Thank you once again for everything 👊🏻👍🏻🙏🏻
Thank You good vid!!
Thanks for the axle vids! Where do you recommend buying axle replacements from as OEM are $$$ and I've read many negatives about the new aftermarket parts?!
Hey just had a question how have the axles been holding up?
So far so good!
Great vid. What kind of drill is that?
I was using two electric impact drivers. One is medium torque ... the other for high torque. They're Milwaukee M18 series 1/2" impact drivers. Do you want me to post the links to Amazon?
If asked the same question, and yes I would be thankful if you post the link !!!
Where did you buy your axle? Basically is it a genuine Honda axle or aftermarket and how is it holding up? I read that these should be OEM but honda world quoted me $600 for the driver side axle and autozone is about $100.
Don't like autozone parts ... low quality. Good aftermarkets made by AdvanceAuto / Car Quest. Online, you can buy name brand aftermarkets (my preference is Cardone) via Amazon or rockauto.com.
@@hardlymovingpro understood. Thanks for the feedback
@@hegotgame8 You bet!
@@hardlymovingpro I have a 2nd gen crv, 225/75/16 with steel rims and a 2 inch lift. When I put the jack next to the lower control arm and lifted the car on the frame of the body the wheel and rim are heavy that it stretched the cv axle and busted it. I tried other points but the cv axle is being stretched any ideas/thoughts of where I can safely lift it?
@@hegotgame8 your owners manual provides the lift points for spare tire changes
I have constant fail on Right hand side inner cv joint, starting with original after I replaced front suspension bushes etc I have replaced rear eng man, measured everything with old, even maybe I reversed drive shafts.
I've had repeated failures with replacement CRV axles as well. Bought the most expensive one that O'Reilly's sold that was not a rebuild. Problem solved.
cheers big man
You bet!
I appreciate the video as I just bought a 2005 Honda CRV 4wd and have to do this exact repair. Did you replace the axle shaft assembly due to leaks or wear/noise? Thanks again. Nice job.
Thanks. Replaced due to noise. Had to do it twice. First one was a poorly built replacement.
@@hardlymovingpro You are my "goto" source on my 2005 CRV. I'm a chevy guy but I have to tell you the 2005 CRV EX is a pretty cool car. I looked for 2 months to find one.
@@C10Scottsdale thanks! Can't go wrong owing most Japanese autos. High quality and build to last.
What size of socket did you used for remove the axle?
32 mm. Details in the video description.
Nice work but why u should not wait for transition cool down before
Doesn't matter.
What's the transmission seal part number? I'm having a tough time figuring it out online. Is it the same for both sides? Awesome videos! Thank you!
It's made by SKF. A link to the product and number is provided in the "Show More" text area of this video.
@@hardlymovingpro Apparently, I clicked every link but that one I guess, not sure how I missed it! Thank you!
@@hardlymovingpro Would you recommend replacing the left and right sides (150,000 miles)? You only replaced it on the driver's side but not the passenger in your videos.
@@chad5618 This video is on how to replace the cv axle and the output shaft seal on the driver's side. CV axles are generally replaced one at a time. But I do have a video in my channel on how to replace the passenger side; that side uses a split axle where the replacement axle does not have a direct link to the transmission.
@@hardlymovingpro Ohhh, okay, makes sense now. I need to replace both sides, so I'll obviously do one side at a time. I just wanted to make sure I had all the parts before I get started. Thank you!
What type of power drill did you use!!?
Those are portable electric Milwaukee M18 series impact drivers.
Was this a rear driver side axle? I'm having clicking noises from the rear drivers side. Thinking its this.
Don't recall. But if your CRV has rear drive, there's CV axles back there as well.
@@hardlymovingpro turned out to be 2 worn out tires in the back. Cupped or bowed and wobbly. Getting an alignment done and of course 2 new tires.
Thanks for replying
What's the part number for the trans housing seal.
Don't have it. Go to rockauto.com to find the part
If its In correctly would I be able to pull it out without a screwdriver?
Nope ... need to compress the cv expansion clip
Do you have to drain the transmission fluids first to do this job?
Not at all.
Thanks for your reply.
@@lebronjordan802 No problem!
how often you should change the transmission fluid on 2005 honda crv ? thank you
Working on Honda's, I do a drain and fill every time the fluid gets a little dark and the shifting starts to act up. I use Valvoline's full synthetic ATF. Works very well. If you want high quality, IMHO, you can also use Idemitsu ... a Japanese OEM provider. AdvanceAuto carries them.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you I am planning to do a transmission fluid change on a honda just bought I thought I have to buy the fluid from honda according to some people but I don't have to do that anymore thank you so much like your content keep up the good work
@@kamalabbady6778 Honda Z1 rated ATF is not a full synthetic and Valvoline's synthetic is compatible with Honda's.
Sebelum melepas apakah harus di buang dulu oli transmisinya?
Tidak. Jika ada cairan yang keluar (biasanya kurang dari 1/2 liter), tambahkan saja cairan yang hilang.
@@hardlymovingpro ok.terimakasih brother
Any fluid I need to drain first anything I can do etc or what just literally pull it out and stuff
Just add via dip stick what drained out.
@@hardlymovingpro thats transmission fluid right
Where did you buy the cv axle?
Oreilly's
Hardly Moving Productions how much was it?
Don't remember. You can check out their prices on-line.
Hardly Moving Productions thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro no
I would love some advise
Wish me luck I'm going to replace my crv driver cv axle 🙂!
It's do-able!
Good
Because title show honda cr-v?
What size socket for the cv axl nut?
Think it was 34 mm
👍👍👍
Thanks!
Question: I hear a whising sound when press or step harder on the gas pedal on my 2002 crv. What would that be or how can I trace that sound? Thanks...
Could be an engine vacuum leak.
Hardly Moving Productions thanks ...
A vacuum leak? Where would I check? I've heard that the power steering pump could be at fault as well
Opinions vary on the issue, but it is a very common thing for CRVs. Some people say it is the transmission, some say it is the throttle body making whistling sound when 1/2 way open. Mine was doing it since new and still does
Check for a vacuum leak. There’s a lot of videos out there
What year of CRV is this?
2006
2006 2nd gen? Or first year of 3rd Gen?
Believe it's 2nd.
Wouldn’t it have been easier and more simple to separate the control arm from the ball joint?
Hate working from under the car when I don't have a lift.
Tell the truth, are you replacing the axle because it separated when you were replacing the struts? (That's what happened to me. 😆)
Nope. The axle was shot.
Wait a minute. Is this a Honda or Toyota? 🤔
It's a Honda. The CRV does not use a double wishbone suspension like on Honda's passenger cars. Similar to Toyota, the upper strut mount rotates on the upper spring seat which acts like a upper ball joint.
What year model is the Crv in the video?thanks
This is the passenger side
Nope. Here's the passenger side video: th-cam.com/video/M-dADjBcHzo/w-d-xo.html
I just put a new axle on my car and the hub wont turn
Transmission in Park?
Yes
So after I installed it I used my impact gun to tigthen the axle nut and now the bearing wont turn
Needs to be in neutral.
It would of been nice if you would of mentioned the size of bolts.and what all the tools you need
You should get yourself a repair guide/manual like Chilton to get all torque specs.
UGH now my strut bolts aren't lining up, any advice?
Use a large diameter phillips screw driver or any metal rod to light up the bolt holes.
Nice job, my rock auto replacement CV joint was not shipped with a intermediate shaft (The piece that goes into the transmission, driver side. The directions say replace the old & put it on the new one???. WTF? Anyone?
The CRV in the video has a intermediate (inner) drive axle on the passenger side between the trans and a shaft bearing hanger. They usually don't wear out since there's no flexing going on. Just pop out the outer shaft away from the intermediate (inner) shaft with a pry bar and press the new outer shaft in.
Thanks for the reply, I ordered it thinking it would be ready to install. I dont have access to a press.@@hardlymovingpro
When I said "press" it also meant "push". Just line up the splines between the inner and outer and push forcefully.