In this video, I cover several different U-turn scenarios. However, you’ll notice the technique is almost the same, even though each U-turn situation is different. This is a good thing! It’s easier to remember the technique when it stays mostly unchanged. If the technique were totally different in every situation, it would be much harder to remember which approach to use when. Remember, the friction zone is the #1 key to successful U-turns! 🔑 Thanks for watching!
Did a great job explaining and demonstrating. You covered surface appraisal, clutch, throttle and brake. Some take for granted how easy it really is… as long as people practice. BTW; if that’s your bike, it looks great for a ‘17. Guess I should have commented at the end when explained where the motor came from. Geez
You can never see enough of these videos. The key is to practice,practice,practice. Having a school parking lot 1/4 mile from my home gives me a practice area b4 my rides. I travel a lot and usually packed pretty heavy. I tend to ride to the nearest parking lot or crossroad to make my turn around. Age and strength are factors maybe to consider. Being retired, that extra little time to go to a parking lot to make the turn seems to be my safety factor. 👍👍
I'm a MSF RC, very well done video! One thing you forgot to mention is to NOT apply front brake while H/B are turned or you will have a "Gravity Enhanced Moment". I'm going to use that term in my classes, lol! Thanks.
Good point! When I became a MSF RC this is something our instructor would say. He suggested this to keep the students from overthinking the word “fall”. I thought it was funny and decided to use it myself. “ Unscheduled dismount” is another good one. Thanks for watching!
Just made a video emphasizing practicing slow riding . Many of us that been riding straight for over 15 years gets complacent. Great video. I need to go to one of these courses just not many around
I'm 71 YO and have been riding since 1975. This summer I upsized to a GL1800 after owning three 4cyl goldwings. It has not been a smooth transition. The 1800 is much harder to get on and off and my turning from a stop is not as graceful as I would like. This video and your EASY Height Hacks for HEAVY Bikes have the solutions I need to work on. Great job thanks!
Excellent content! I'm a big fan of slow speed drill practice. This is a very practical application and great skill to have in your back pocket. Keep the videos coming and I'll keep practicing!
Great video! Been riding since August so I'm trying to absorb as much as possible. Great channel altogether! Btw, do you have any videos up of doing these same u turns, but to the right?
You know, I thought about that when I was editing the video. You can do them the same way; however, as motor officers we are instructed to keep our right foot down and pointed in the direction of the turn prior to making a 90 degree turn to the right (from a stop). The right turn is usually more difficult to learn, especially when keeping your foot down prior to starting. Thanks for pointing that out. I’ll keep that in mind for the future. Thanks for watching!
@@BarkersBikes thanks for the reply! And damn... A goal for next year is to apply to our motors unit... So I guess I'll have to get those down eventually as well 🥲. Thanks for the tips! I'll get on it 🫡🫡
Love your videos, when I try to make a u turn from a stop I turn bars full lock, rpm’s up in the friction zone I release brake slowly my bars go straight. How can I fix this? Thanks Tom!
This could be because you feel that you’re going to tip over to the outside of the turn. For example, if you are making a left U-turn and the bike starts to tip to right, instinctively you want to straighten the bars to prevent the bike from tipping over. Maybe you’re subconsciously doing this? What would happen if you didn’t straighten the bars and you forced them to stay turned? Would you tip over to the right in my above scenario? Your answer may provide more insight. Thanks!
When I teach motors I start with building step fundamentals. We have an exercise called a 90 degree pull out. If you’re setting up cones, create a “T” type intersection about 10-15ft wide, (as you enhance your skills, narrowing the lanes). At a stop with the bars locked, if we’re going left, the left foot is down with the right foot on the brake. When going right, your right foot is down and your left foot is up. Clutch, throttle brake…friction zone (remembering that hydraulic clutches are less forgiving than cable). Be sure to use your head and eyes… look where you want to go. If you look down, you’ll go down. When we drop our motors (we try not to, but sometimes it happens), lift your chin up slightly and look just above a focal point (horizon line, fixed object, etc.). Once you’ve practiced this 90 degree pull out, you’ll be able to use it to gradually work your way up/down hills. 1) Surface appraisal 2) Clutch, throttle, brake 3) Head and eyes 4) Lock and Lean
When I teach motors I start with building step fundamentals. We have an exercise called a 90 degree pull out. If you’re setting up cones, create a “T” type intersection about 10-15ft wide, (as you enhance your skills, narrowing the lanes). At a stop with the bars locked, if we’re going left, the left foot is down with the right foot on the brake. When going right, your right foot is down and your left foot is up. Clutch, throttle brake…friction zone (remembering that hydraulic clutches are less forgiving than cable). Be sure to use your head and eyes… look where you want to go. If you look down, you’ll go down. When we drop our motors (we try not to, but sometimes it happens), lift your chin up slightly and look just above a focal point (horizon line, fixed object, etc.). Once you’ve practiced this 90 degree pull out, you’ll be able to use it to gradually work your way up/down hills. 1) Surface appraisal 2) Clutch, throttle, brake 3) Head and eyes 4) Lock and Lean Finally, when I do competitions my bars sometimes do that as well. I use it to my advantage. When this happens, I do a “juke turn” (otherwise known as an insta-turn or quick-turn) to help start to lean the bike. I’m 5’6 with short arms and in the event all of this occurs, you’ll eventually create a tighter radius turn.
i guess most people doing their best to avoid dragging the clutch because they afraid to burn it, and would afraid more if the rear brake is used that is doing more load on a clutch
It’s all about finding the right balance between the clutch, throttle, and rear brake. If you overuse the rear brake, it can make the motorcycle fight against itself, causing extra heat and wear on the clutch. I do these types of maneuvers every day, multiple times a day, in my line of work with no issues. As motor officers, we’re in the friction zone far more often than someone just making the occasional U-turn, and we typically get 3 to 5 years out of a clutch. That’s completely acceptable to me, and I ride my personal motorcycles the exact same way. Ultimately, the clutch is a replaceable part, and the control you gain by learning to use the friction zone is well worth the wear. You’re right though, many people are afraid of damaging their bikes. Thanks for watching! Glad you’re here!
Good instructions! However it would be good to also show right turns as they require the bike to be leaned a bit to the right and in that position you have to put your right foot on the ground, not on the brake.
In this video, I cover several different U-turn scenarios. However, you’ll notice the technique is almost the same, even though each U-turn situation is different. This is a good thing! It’s easier to remember the technique when it stays mostly unchanged. If the technique were totally different in every situation, it would be much harder to remember which approach to use when.
Remember, the friction zone is the #1 key to successful U-turns! 🔑
Thanks for watching!
Did a great job explaining and demonstrating. You covered surface appraisal, clutch, throttle and brake. Some take for granted how easy it really is… as long as people practice. BTW; if that’s your bike, it looks great for a ‘17. Guess I should have commented at the end when explained where the motor came from. Geez
You can never see enough of these videos. The key is to practice,practice,practice. Having a school parking lot 1/4 mile from my home gives me a practice area b4 my rides. I travel a lot and usually packed pretty heavy. I tend to ride to the nearest parking lot or crossroad to make my turn around. Age and strength are factors maybe to consider. Being retired, that extra little time to go to a parking lot to make the turn seems to be my safety factor. 👍👍
I'm a MSF RC, very well done video! One thing you forgot to mention is to NOT apply front brake while H/B are turned or you will have a "Gravity Enhanced Moment". I'm going to use that term in my classes, lol! Thanks.
Exactly, applying the front brake while the front wheel is turned and you probably won’t be able to hold the bike up and the bike will go down.
However, he did say (while on the hill) “rear brake only.”
Good point!
When I became a MSF RC this is something our instructor would say. He suggested this to keep the students from overthinking the word “fall”. I thought it was funny and decided to use it myself.
“ Unscheduled dismount” is another good one.
Thanks for watching!
Great video. You don't step over any details and that's super important. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Always look forward to the u-turn tips 💯💥 thank you
Thank you! Thanks for the comment. I believe you were the 1st one. 👍🏻
Just made a video emphasizing practicing slow riding . Many of us that been riding straight for over 15 years gets complacent. Great video. I need to go to one of these courses just not many around
I don’t have a bike yet but anything to help me understand what needs worked on and how to do it properly, is helping me so much
Great advice Justin! Enjoying watching your videos! Best 👍👍HOD Rocks! Did my MSF there. Josh and team are great! DC
Thanks for sharing! Glad to have you here!
I'm 71 YO and have been riding since 1975. This summer I upsized to a GL1800 after owning three 4cyl goldwings. It has not been a smooth transition. The 1800 is much harder to get on and off and my turning from a stop is not as graceful as I would like. This video and your EASY Height Hacks for HEAVY Bikes have the solutions I need to work on. Great job thanks!
Awesome! So glad to hear that it helped! Thanks for sharing! 👍🏻
“Gravity enhanced moment”! Love it!😂
Great stuff! Very informative. Thank you sir!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great video, Justin. You're doing very well with your instruction.
Excellent content! I'm a big fan of slow speed drill practice. This is a very practical application and great skill to have in your back pocket. Keep the videos coming and I'll keep practicing!
Thanks for the comment!
Greetings from the PPRC great information, thanks so much for sharing your experience with us.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching. Glad you’re here!
Fantastic video… thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good instructions.
I'm back on the road after 30 years on 4 wheels only, and it's surprising how much practice has been required.
Welcome back to the motorcycle community!
And thanks for watching!
Great training, thanks
Great instruction, once again!
Great video! Been riding since August so I'm trying to absorb as much as possible. Great channel altogether! Btw, do you have any videos up of doing these same u turns, but to the right?
You know, I thought about that when I was editing the video.
You can do them the same way; however, as motor officers we are instructed to keep our right foot down and pointed in the direction of the turn prior to making a 90 degree turn to the right (from a stop). The right turn is usually more difficult to learn, especially when keeping your foot down prior to starting.
Thanks for pointing that out. I’ll keep that in mind for the future.
Thanks for watching!
@@BarkersBikes thanks for the reply! And damn... A goal for next year is to apply to our motors unit... So I guess I'll have to get those down eventually as well 🥲. Thanks for the tips! I'll get on it 🫡🫡
Love your videos, when I try to make a u turn from a stop I turn bars full lock, rpm’s up in the friction zone I release brake slowly my bars go straight. How can I fix this?
Thanks Tom!
This could be because you feel that you’re going to tip over to the outside of the turn. For example, if you are making a left U-turn and the bike starts to tip to right, instinctively you want to straighten the bars to prevent the bike from tipping over. Maybe you’re subconsciously doing this?
What would happen if you didn’t straighten the bars and you forced them to stay turned? Would you tip over to the right in my above scenario?
Your answer may provide more insight.
Thanks!
When I teach motors I start with building step fundamentals. We have an exercise called a 90 degree pull out. If you’re setting up cones, create a “T” type intersection about 10-15ft wide, (as you enhance your skills, narrowing the lanes).
At a stop with the bars locked, if we’re going left, the left foot is down with the right foot on the brake. When going right, your right foot is down and your left foot is up. Clutch, throttle brake…friction zone (remembering that hydraulic clutches are less forgiving than cable).
Be sure to use your head and eyes… look where you want to go. If you look down, you’ll go down. When we drop our motors (we try not to, but sometimes it happens), lift your chin up slightly and look just above a focal point (horizon line, fixed object, etc.).
Once you’ve practiced this 90 degree pull out, you’ll be able to use it to gradually work your way up/down hills.
1) Surface appraisal
2) Clutch, throttle, brake
3) Head and eyes
4) Lock and Lean
When I teach motors I start with building step fundamentals. We have an exercise called a 90 degree pull out. If you’re setting up cones, create a “T” type intersection about 10-15ft wide, (as you enhance your skills, narrowing the lanes).
At a stop with the bars locked, if we’re going left, the left foot is down with the right foot on the brake. When going right, your right foot is down and your left foot is up. Clutch, throttle brake…friction zone (remembering that hydraulic clutches are less forgiving than cable).
Be sure to use your head and eyes… look where you want to go. If you look down, you’ll go down. When we drop our motors (we try not to, but sometimes it happens), lift your chin up slightly and look just above a focal point (horizon line, fixed object, etc.).
Once you’ve practiced this 90 degree pull out, you’ll be able to use it to gradually work your way up/down hills.
1) Surface appraisal
2) Clutch, throttle, brake
3) Head and eyes
4) Lock and Lean
Finally, when I do competitions my bars sometimes do that as well. I use it to my advantage. When this happens, I do a “juke turn” (otherwise known as an insta-turn or quick-turn) to help start to lean the bike. I’m 5’6 with short arms and in the event all of this occurs, you’ll eventually create a tighter radius turn.
@ Yes! This is good stuff! We practice this same exercise. Thanks for sharing!
@@sparkyastwo thanks!
i guess most people doing their best to avoid dragging the clutch because they afraid to burn it, and would afraid more if the rear brake is used that is doing more load on a clutch
It’s all about finding the right balance between the clutch, throttle, and rear brake. If you overuse the rear brake, it can make the motorcycle fight against itself, causing extra heat and wear on the clutch. I do these types of maneuvers every day, multiple times a day, in my line of work with no issues. As motor officers, we’re in the friction zone far more often than someone just making the occasional U-turn, and we typically get 3 to 5 years out of a clutch. That’s completely acceptable to me, and I ride my personal motorcycles the exact same way. Ultimately, the clutch is a replaceable part, and the control you gain by learning to use the friction zone is well worth the wear.
You’re right though, many people are afraid of damaging their bikes.
Thanks for watching! Glad you’re here!
💙🏁💙👍
Good instructions! However it would be good to also show right turns as they require the bike to be leaned a bit to the right and in that position you have to put your right foot on the ground, not on the brake.