A BETTER battery for my Defender and a battery box wiring tidy up
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ส.ค. 2021
- The battery died and so it was time for a new one, plus tidying up the accessory wiring in my battery box.
Varta H3 battery: ebay.us/9kpN3g
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Great job - hadn’t seen the power distribution posts before.
400 miles in my nail of an old disco today ! Need the v8 109 back ASAP. Great video !!!
Good choice of battery. I was going to buy one of those when my Puma battery died due to lack of use for a few months due to Covid. In the end I bought a genuine battery from the local LR dealer for £160 which I didn't think was too bad considering it came in a cardboard box with LR on it. One of the reasons, the truck is still covered by LR extended warranty so that was something less to worry about if some problem occurred in the future that could be construed due to a non original part. You have to keep one step ahead of these people , otherwise they'll have you over a barrel given half the chance!
Yeah not a bad price. My problem was scrimping all those years ago, but £60 was a lot to me back then!
Both of mine are on varta batteries ! Very happy with them
I got fed up with small 70-90ah batts and fitted a 180ah 1050cca truck battery to my series 3. Just made a tray for it under the chassis and extended the cables.
If that battery clamp came loose it could slide forward and cause a spectacular short!..... I think you might find it could go on the front corner of the battery clamping the battery "diagonally" in to the battery location....
Neat job, entertaining and informative as always :-)
I have exactly the same battery, works like a treat.
I got a bluetooth charge sensor, so I can check the voltage when I’m near the car. It keeps track of your battery charge whenever you check it with the app on your phone.
Oh that's interesting, not heard of those. Got a link?
I fitted a Yuasa YBX3642 to my 300Tdi Defender. 110Ah and 925A CCA. A bit taller than standard, so I had to modify the battery clamp bolts to suit
Nice, still holding up?
@@lrworkshop
Yes, even with extended lay ups due to lockdowns
Well done!
Cheers!
while you are in there
- put rivnuts on the mounted realys and other things in the battery box
- I would be reluctent to soley rely on the adhesive in an unfused electrical mount that could result in an electrical fire and loss of the vehicle in the unlikley event that one or both let go. ( there is a reason manufacturers don't do this for such applications)
- you can always drill and put in sealed rivits to mechanically backup the glued mouniting
- Replace the headlight realys and put spray electrical compatable sealant / corrosion protection on the fuse area
Thanks John
Those battery clamps can be angled and pull on a corner rather than press down so you use the hypotenuse to use a bit more length to the threaded section
True, good idea. I'd have to get a new positive shield then to fit a right angle 😁
I still have my CXV 24 it has been abused, run down a loooong way, used with my portable electric winch, been in lots of cars, used to run a fridge for hours and it is still going. I did have a larger version die in the P38 (100AH) which was due to it being in a P38 (so shame!). I also have a 120AH version… My 90 is a V8 auto. Given how many other types of battery I’ve had I think these are OK without being Optima$. My old Varta survived two cars so they are pretty good too.
Cool cheers Gavin
@@lrworkshop The other thing is that I kind of had several family cars and the CTEK charger, they do a connector that has 3 lights on it to show condition and with a little extension you can mount it where you can see it. It is then easy to connect the charger. The P38 was really good a being OK then not (and the antenna on the security system, a prime cause, was snipped). Walking past them all I could see battery condition. A brief LED flash may use less power than a Bluetooth gizmo.
Should you also have a (say 25A midi in-line strip type) fuse at the battery end on the red common supply lead? I can see the light circuits are separately fused at the relays but a common fuse near the battery post would be good practice and provide protection in the event of short circuit.
Potentially. I'll have a look around for something suitable 👍
Nice job done. Does re wiring head lights work. Do they shine any bether. Cheers 🍻
They do. Enough to be noticeable, but it won't be like daylight
@@lrworkshop Thanks one project more. LAND ROVER never endimg story. 😁
Time to change those relays
It might just be time
hi pal me oncea gain noticed on into you seemed to be sitting comfy at 65mph , my 97 110sw just wont sit there for the life of it , yours a standard 5th / tbox? , also in mine ive just squeezed in 2 x 073 batterys with a modified flatdog battery holder 1 is leasure, 1s starter only with a cheap voltage sense split charger its tight for sure
I do have a 1.2 T-box. The speedo at 65 is 62 real speed. 70 is 67. It'll happily sit at 70 although not as comfortable noise-wise as 65
@@lrworkshop makes alot more sense now , I need a new r380 in mine as its whining really bad so thinking to get the Ashcroft 5th gear upgrade / the v8 Iirc as dont mind the ratios just need that extra 5-10mph on motorway instead of screaming past trucks
Yuasa 640SHD is the correct fitment for a defender 1000cca
Thanks Tom
Watching the rest of the video now, you could have put a piece of 18mm Ply or similar in there to mount your distribution studs on? If the glue fails that is what I would probably do.
Why use one , when you can have two :-)
I have mounted two , 90 Ah AGM , and yes, you will have sore bones :-)
One is to start and the other for the fridge and light etc.(and the diesel heather)
Twice the cost! There's nothing else in the vehicle to run from a battery 😁
Think you need a better battery shop mate
In terms of what?
@@lrworkshop one that could supply you the correct orientation of poles 🤷♂️ could have probably got a 120 in there if you were after weight of lead