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3 reasons why I think Land Rover wiring is unreliable
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ส.ค. 2024
- Or maybe those reasons are why Land Rover wiring is not unreliable. I compare two 1989 and 2005 looms to see the evolution in their design.
Wiring loom pictorial guides
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Well done Will! Saves me a job!
One issue I see quite often is blackened wires - I was told it is bad connections but I found out it is the early PVC composition that caused wires to oxidise - same with early US vehicles.
Good to mention 'repair' and 'accessories'
For a few years now I run all 'add-ons' via separate fuse boxes in the battery box- one for live, one for ignition based and leave the original harness untouched
Those cheap crimp connectors are total crap - same goes for Scotchloks
Original style eyelets were brass and the crimp ones are copper- they are too soft
Bullet connectors are not bad if you put a dab of Vaseline on them
As you mentioned the Econoseals were an improvement, but the connections were very small and the effort they made to keep water out, actually kept it in!
I know Land Rover Defenders get a lot of stick for wiring (don't forget French and Italian wiring was not any better) But in my 2000 Disco 2 , (220,000 km) which had been used in this god awful climate, still has everything working as it came out of the factory - I think the reason for that is better routing for the wiring- front to back went via the roof and dropped down to the rear lights -not sitting in water
The P38 has wiring running front to back in channels under the thresholds by the door - always full of water from wet shoes and problems for corrosion in the wiring and the floor
Cheers!
Mike
You and your Vaseline on everything Mike!
Found you through Mike at Britannica, great channel. I would add two additional causes to the wiring reliability issues. 1) The use of low quality wire of barely adequate size (gauge), and 2) A heavy reliance on overly complex circuits performing multiple tasks simultainiously. For example, the dash lighting/cruise control circuit on the Discovery 1's. Any how, thanks from the colonies, from A D1 owner (2 '95's, a V8 and a 300TDI)
Thanks for the input Chris :) The quality of wires I guess is down to the control of accountants, which is evident across the whole of British industry!
Great help. Thank you very much
Hello Chris, I am looking for the type of connectors for the power window and door lock (2007 defender) that are located on the wire loom in the car.... so not on the door. Can you tell me where I can find those connectors or an OEM number? Many thanks, Toine from Holland 😁
Yes, great video..instructive and educative about issues we all have experienced! Which Land Rover owner cannot tell their own story of "Lucas, come home before dark.." ?? The mastery of Solihull loom building comes to it's height with the connectors in P38's footwells..the "female" part of the connector facing upwards..funneling down any moisture, dust or what ever the door seals will let through..causing 99% of the P38's reliability issues..I have owned any possible type of LR up until TD5 where I disconnected (or did it disconnect from me???)..and I also own a 1988 (31 years old) coil sprung Land Cruiser (Toyota LJ70 = equivalent of an early Ninety as both came on the market in 1984) that already sports silicon sealed connectors with proper seals everywhere ! The cables are also in conduits wherever physically feasible. attached via rubber bushes to resist vibration in harsh environments. Never had an electric issue with it..eager to see your next videos..loved the comparison series with the 70 series Cruiser and Defenders..cheers.
Brilliant video it really is a bit scary looking at any wiring on cars but hopefully your video will help people like me to understand it a bit more
Thank you very interesting
When converting a 98 300tdi wolf from right to left do I need to get a new wire loom ?
When I turn defender of battery light remains on it only goes out when brake pedal is depressed
Omg you need to see our wiring loom it’s the best I’ve ever seen in about a foot of wire he has about 4 connections we called him botchy bro
The pictorial guide link is broken. Got a newer link to it please?
You've missed out the Series One joys of the vermiculite insulated rubber (VIR) cable insulation which is like something out of Tutankhamun's tomb , crumbling to dust at the slightest provocation! I recall as well in the 1980s dealing with renewong unobtainable pork pie rear lights on my 109 Series One with a cut down baked bean tin and upgrading lengths of dodgy cables with domestic twin and earth. Not techniques at today's prices for Series Ones!
What a fantastic video. Any idea why I'm suddenly getting 10v along the reverse light line on a 1992 110? The lamp hardly glows. I ran a fresh earth but it still hardly glows! Keep up the great work! Awesome channel.
Thanks :) Assuming the battery is fully charged... The reverse light goes through the bulkhead loom, out to the engine then along the chassis loom. If a fresh earth has no effect then there may be resistance on the feed side. I would look under the cubby box/transmission panel at the wiring around the gearbox to see if there's any crusty connections.
I checked the feed at the gearbox switch and it too read 10v. I'll dig deeper. Thanks!
Do you know where the earthing points are on a discovery td5? I have a problem with s&m lights coming on and off, sometime they go off if I switch engine off and on again, sometimes will start in drive when fault happens. Xyz switch has been done,
Not exactly. Probably one in the engine bay around the bulkhead and maybe underneath from transfer box to chassis
I know this is an old video, but a few things, ground faults only give undesirable or no opperation, things staying on is a live fault, usually a switching fault. I mostly agree with what you've said, but the multi bullet plugs are really good if you can fully close them, the individual bullets on the other hand aren't great at all which is why I removed all the ones in my 1997 loom. After 1997, Sumitomo connectors are brilliant! 99% of connection issues were solved. The sheathing is mostly adequate to be fair, age doesn't do it any favours, but at least it can drain the water out! Most of the faults I agree are owner induced, as your photo of an earlier vehicle proves, the grounds are all poor crimps that are dirty, which is never good.
I have tried to make my 300tdi as reliable as possible with electricals, using my 30 years worth of experience, I've kept the main look fairly standard other than moving switches (full use of Sumitomo connectors there) and all other added vehicle systems run through a secondary loom. The overland systems run through another loom, and the main hub of both of these is under the driver's seat, which has been sealed.
Thank you good info.
Ah yes - the infamous "let's pump oil into the ECU" wiring "design". And let's not forget the BCU on TD5s that has floating earths to make it difficult to add extra interior lighting
Sounds like fun. Glad I don't own a Disco...
They also have the most stupid connectors/plugs in the most inaccesible places and places where oil or diesel is likely to be present after a while.
Could you make your own wiring loom on an old defender (glass fuse style), using modern connectors, shielding etc?
yes totally possible, it's just wires. I know people retrofit Td5 looms into 200Tdis, or make their entire own looms, etc. Being a master of the wiring diagrams will probably help!
Yep if you want to fix my '85 / 300tdi engined looms that would be smashing!
Where are you in the UK?
@@lrworkshop West Mids
Yes it's a total mystery to me. 2001 TD5 no dash function no headlights or beam but flash working no electric windows all caused by blown fuse 15. The rear wiper motor. I haven't had a rear wiper for years. How does that work? Still chasing the problem. Getting quite good at changing the fuse on the move. Still wouldn't change the car for the world
Hi Will great videos lots of information. Just one question I have for you would you know were I can buy the connectors for the dash lights for a defender 200tdi I am fully restoring the jeep I got all of the other connectors in the jeep just can't seem the find them ones they are right angled too.
Troca da correia distribuição land roverl defender 110 tdi
Where I can buy an entire wiring for a td5?
eBay UK would be the best place, for RHD anyway
Most of the old Land Rovers are still running and many used by the military. If its and earthing issue its not the wiring, its the EARTH.
I see that after the advent of Series Land Rovers, all the wiring has got thinner and definitely more fragile.
LR went through an horrendous time with British Leyland in the 70s so I imagine there was lots of cost cutting that went on. Thanks for your comment!
@@lrworkshop Too true. Thank you.
So bad, I have an 86 90n/a
Defender wiring contemporaneously no more or less reliable than any other makes.
90's Mercedes had wiring with "biodegradeable" insulation, which funnily enough, degraded and caused/causes mind bending problems..
Worst wiring in any car ever made and eye wateringly expensive to fix.
Your earthing problems highlighted at 4:00 due to knucklehead interventions as evidenced by the squeeze and hope wiring connectors. Nothing to do with Land Rover.
Cars of that era similarly had earthing points all over the vehicle.
You have chronicled the evolution of looms adopted by most makes using the underlying ethos of trying to make stuff cheaper.
The more modern connectors being way more fragile than bullet connectors which gave fantastic service for decades.
Land Rover wiring is as robust as any and is usually subjected to more arduous duty/service than most other cars.
The switchgear however, lighting switches especially and their circuitry , another matter.
A relay here and there solves any problems.
Land Rover wiring is not unreliable.
I just truly hope this company goes under soon. They have produced garbage vehicles since I have been a kid. And the wanabe rappers and housewives keep buying them.