Thank you for doing these videos. They really are beneficial in many ways. Especially for those looking at knives to purchase. The knives aren't cheap and your videos and input are very informative
I have to say I cringed a bit when you went to town on those knots. And was blown away by the fact that there was no damage to the aurora at all. Given the angles and different grinds. This is still very impressive. I very much enjoy your videos and respect your opinion in knife matters. Also to watch you bone out a deer is great it is obvious you know where each muscle is and the proper technique to retrieve it. I was a butcher for 12 years and know a bit about bone and muscle structure in animals and there is only one way to learn that and that is to do it over and over again. Excellent skill. Thanks very much for all you share.
I am almost sure my most dependable steel is 3V. I always want to reconfirm my belief. Sof steels like 12C27 are good. Hard but brittle steels like D2 are okay. Restoration of the both are no problem to me having very coarse to very fine quality stones. Once 3V takes its proper geometry, it never needs restoration, and it seems great to me. What it needs is just white compound stropping even after hard use. By the way my particular Mechanix gloves are nice to hold knife handles. Thanks.
Thank you very much for spending the money and the time to experiment with these knives. I have learned so much and would buy you a beer for your effort if I could. Possibly BR got the perfect geometry for 3v on this knife. I hope when I get mine it comes with the same geometry. Best John
The compass rose on a Bark River knife is meant to indicate that Bark River intends that particular design primarily for bushcraft use. I also have one on my Golok.
I made the assymmetrical grind to some of my knives, Gunny 3V, Canadian 3V, and Mora Black. Their left side bevel is almost flat from a high line while their right side is convex. This grind makes even thinner and curlier feathers. But it is a bit prone to going left during batoning. It is give and take, and I currently don't make it positively. It is kind of difficult sometimes for the asymmetrical ground edge to make very thin wood sticks which follow feathersticks to make fire easily. Thanks.
If they have the same apex angle, Scandi geometry has more metal behind the apex and is tougher IMO. But this Camper's apex angle was 22 degrees or so while Aurora's angle is 28 degrees or so. It was not a fair comparison as you say. I just wanted to say Aurora has the best geometry ever for their 3V steel, and Camper needs slight convexing or micro beveling after getting rid of its V micro bevel. I mixed the two issues in a single video and gave you some confusion. Thanks.
'This is my knife life'. Ha! Priceless! I find - as always - your interest and passion for knives refreshing and, um, somehow familiar... Although I own neither of these particular knives, I certainly relate to playing with sharp 'toys' in the garage... Interesting video. Thanks for sharing.
I guess it might help to explain my reasoning as to why i chose the S1 over the aurora - Where i live, the most abundant wood is Acacia, which grows twisted and has many knots and extremely resilient fibres. The S1 is a thicker blade, and the fact that its laminated VG10 as opposed to solid VG10 in the WM1 offers (in my mind) more flexibility to the blade. The S1 also retains a blade height thats not too high, and not too low - in my mind, the s1 is the perfect knife for me :)
Excellent test, Virtuovice. Clearly the Aurora took 1/3rd of the effort out of your work on the thicker cross-cut. This was the first time I'd seen anyone test a knife using a cross-cut and it was a telling test.
I suspect Spyderco Bushcraft has a V micro bevel out of the box. I personally don't like O1 because it is on a soft side. And I need a versatile handle to a 4 inch blade for my game dressing. Your Puma knife seems to be hollow grind. It won't have wood cutting potential but is only for slicing like game dressing. Woods knives should be Scandi grind or shallow convex grind IMO. Thanks.
I don't know how I missed this video! Glad to see you got an Aurora. I sold my 3V to try other knives and just picked it up again in A2. 3V is better, specially the tip! But A2 strops us easier of course. Great to hear your thoughts!
Bark River often make a large angle to their 3V knives. So I need to shallow down its geometry in almost all cases to satisfy my needs. I know their 3V holds up in my home made small angle for any of my wood and hunting jobs. I like A2 and 3V steel from Bark River very much. I like Japanese blue paper steel very much too. They are all hard and tough, and satisfy my needs. Thanks.
You are correct. But, when testing bite.. against the grain as he has done will give you a good indication of bite. Of course, as you so stated, in the field you would use the packsaw
I really like how versatile the Aurora is, infact I was close to purchasing it, but i chose the S1 instead. At last a realistic knife abuse video - no battoning through bricks and punching through car bonnets and oil drums -.-'. Thanks
D2 chips in a paper edge where A2 or O1 bends. D2 needs around 30 degrees obviously never to take chipping. Then D2 will make a great edge. But we will never be able to get rid of our anxiety that it might chip. I am confident that 3V never chips nor bends in our regular hard use in 30 degrees. Thanks.
Among all kinds of Bark River knives Aurora especially in CPM-3V is the most versatile and easiest to be used, I think. I love Aurora so much. I don't need Bravo-1 anymore.
Hello Dr Waco, thank you for your knife videos, always very much full of info. Can you please advise where you purchased your Bark River Aurora in 3V from ? Also, please advise where you purchase your Chosera Water stones from ? Online or actual store in Japan ? Cheers and Happy Camping !
My home made grind is very shallow convex on the left side to whittle wood for feathersticking and regular convex on the right side to slide on bones for game dressing. I don't like the real zero Scandi grind because it bites wood too deep and bites bones. Thanks.
Perhaps a ffg with a convex edge was what I meant. I find the amount of steel removal in scandi sharpening to be more than any other grind barring the ffg. However the results when the blade hits the wood makes it all worth it. Do you prefer convex on game and scandi on wood?
Virtuo San, just when I thought I'd made my mind up on buying the Enzo Camper D2, you go and prove the brittle nature of D2 tool steel! Then go and throw the Aurora in the mix for good measure! Which seems to have outstanding blade geometry and edge retention values. Though I suspect the B.R. Aurora to be at least twice the price or the Enzo, maybe as much as nearly three times the price here in UK? Be interested to see if the Enzo edge holds better after the slight re-profile? Regards, Dazza.
Wako you are searching for a reckoning....looking for answers....if I didn't know what you are looking for...I would ask Have YOU gone MAD!? Awesome to watch as always. How is the handle in those gloves? Do you lose touch? Do you feel everything?
I didn't know Spyderco Bushcraft doesn't have a micro bevel. I had a prejudice to Spyderco. I don't like the full flat grind because it is the toughest to sharpen and the most difficult to make a keen edge on. For my utility knives I prefer hollow grind since it is very easy to sharpen. I sometimes sharpen my fruit cutting folding knife, Spyderco H1 Pacific Salt. H1 is not so durable. Its hollow bevel is easy to me. For outdoor knives I prefer Scandi and convex grind generally speaking. Thanks.
Do you own a Spyderco Bushcraft? Just wondering your opinion on that knife. Also, I have a Puma stag bowie 116396. It slices great as its a hunting knife but it has a 30 degree grind which does not allow it to shave wood at all. Its horrible with wood. Would you advise I attempt to lower the grind angle to possibly achieve a more well rounded woods knife?
Dr. Wako, Curiously, what kind of performance would you expect from such bushcrafting exercises if you left the 120/220 finish from the stone, and then stropped with BR Black compound only? Kind regards, TIA
Thats great. Busse knives does something like that. I believe they use a flat on one side and a convex on the other. Do you have to switch hands for game? Thanks so much for answering all my questions.
I have owned the Spydie for about 8 months. Mine has never had a micro bevel on it. As far as comfort in carving, the Spyderco is top notch. Not sure how the scandi would work for you on game. Every carving grip is a pleasure and has yet to create a hot spot. Yes the Puma is a hollow grind. I have seen some people do pretty amazing woodwork with a hollow grind. I would rather have the scandi as well or convex. How do you feel about a ffg blade. Some guys swear they are the ultimate in utility.
Steel being soft has all to do with the temper. 01 is a tool steel and can be hardened to an extremely high RC. 52100 ball bearing steel at 50 RC is softer than 01 at 57RC and so on. To each his own brother. What kind of blade do you usually prefer?
Wako I am looking for your video where you put a different grind on each side and the knife went through wood extremely quick, like a laser beam. I think it was an A2 Gunny. Would that be correct?
On my knife by the spine isnt flat like yours. Convex is 100% on yours its flat then transitions into convex. Did they change the style? Also the bottom of my handles are sharp
No. I hold a wood stick with my left hand and use only the left side bevel to make a featherstick. I twist the edge clockwise and use only the right side bevel to remove muscles from bones. I am righty. Thanks.
Wako, do you think it's better to purchase bark river regular aurora or scandi grind aurora? They are accepting preorders for cru-wear in both grinds, do you recommend to choose regular convex grind or scandi (scandivex) ? Also, do you recommend 3v or cruwear? Thank you. Also
Hello, I have some experience of their Scandi-convex grind. Its apex angle looks very large over 40 degrees because of its grind lowness and strong convex curve, so it cannot bite deep. So I highly recommend their standard convex grind whose apex angle looks like under 30 degrees which is still tough enough. The Cru-wear looks like having high hardness over HRC61 while the 3V is 59~60 which is tougher. brkgallery.com/2012/album01/Knife_Steel_Chart_with_20CV_and_Elmax_and_Cru_Wear
Interesting point, wasn't aware of different D2 steels? Anyway, on reflection, I'm still inclined think the Enzo Camper is a good knife for the price. The Aurora is twice the price here in UK, but is it twice the knife? In the real world I think not! If money isn't a problem, buy an Aurora or two! I think the Enzo would be a good knife in the £100 bracket and perform well under 'normal' use. Regards Dazza.
D2 is known to be brittle and with that paper thin edge it's (or any steel) not appropriate for heavy batoning. I'm impressed with the 3V Aurora but still wouldn't use it for that kind of batoning. I carry a large and a small knife and sometimes an axe. I reserve my small knife for delicate tasks including small batoning for kindling. If in a complete survival situation, then you must use what you have and in this case you'd be better off with the Aurora. I'm sticking with 01 Enzos.
I prefer Aurora too. All day long. But it doesn’t make me not seeing you were bias during the test in the favour of Aurora. Specially on first wood cutting test, you could use way more force on Enzo because of its handle design. Enzo could win the cutting test.
Which is why he says this is "abuse." Take it easy man. His methods teach us the clear differences between different grinds and steels. He isn't teaching us how to use knives.
Ha. I could say the same about your first comment. But apparently it was a joke that went over my head. Very original defense btw "Dude it was just a joke!" lol And it depends on the party of course. I feel out of place in clubs. I'd rather sit around a camp fire with a couple musicians and some very strong marijuana But if you called me a dick you'd probably be right. I'm not in a good mood this morning so I probably shouldn't be commenting on youtube I hope you have a nice day
Thank you for doing these videos.
They really are beneficial in many ways.
Especially for those looking at knives to purchase.
The knives aren't cheap and your videos and input are very informative
DBK?!?
I have to say I cringed a bit when you went to town on those knots. And was blown away by the fact that there was no damage to the aurora at all. Given the angles and different grinds. This is still very impressive. I very much enjoy your videos and respect your opinion in knife matters. Also to watch you bone out a deer is great it is obvious you know where each muscle is and the proper technique to retrieve it. I was a butcher for 12 years and know a bit about bone and muscle structure in animals and there is only one way to learn that and that is to do it over and over again. Excellent skill. Thanks very much for all you share.
I am almost sure my most dependable steel is 3V. I always want to reconfirm my belief. Sof steels like 12C27 are good. Hard but brittle steels like D2 are okay. Restoration of the both are no problem to me having very coarse to very fine quality stones. Once 3V takes its proper geometry, it never needs restoration, and it seems great to me. What it needs is just white compound stropping even after hard use. By the way my particular Mechanix gloves are nice to hold knife handles. Thanks.
Thank you very much for spending the money and the time to experiment with these knives. I have learned so much and would buy you a beer for your effort if I could. Possibly BR got the perfect geometry for 3v on this knife. I hope when I get mine it comes with the same geometry. Best John
The compass rose on a Bark River knife is meant to indicate that Bark River intends that particular design primarily for bushcraft use. I also have one on my Golok.
I made the assymmetrical grind to some of my knives, Gunny 3V, Canadian 3V, and Mora Black. Their left side bevel is almost flat from a high line while their right side is convex. This grind makes even thinner and curlier feathers. But it is a bit prone to going left during batoning. It is give and take, and I currently don't make it positively. It is kind of difficult sometimes for the asymmetrical ground edge to make very thin wood sticks which follow feathersticks to make fire easily. Thanks.
If they have the same apex angle, Scandi geometry has more metal behind the apex and is tougher IMO. But this Camper's apex angle was 22 degrees or so while Aurora's angle is 28 degrees or so. It was not a fair comparison as you say. I just wanted to say Aurora has the best geometry ever for their 3V steel, and Camper needs slight convexing or micro beveling after getting rid of its V micro bevel. I mixed the two issues in a single video and gave you some confusion. Thanks.
'This is my knife life'. Ha! Priceless! I find - as always - your interest and passion for knives refreshing and, um, somehow familiar... Although I own neither of these particular knives, I certainly relate to playing with sharp 'toys' in the garage... Interesting video. Thanks for sharing.
I guess it might help to explain my reasoning as to why i chose the S1 over the aurora - Where i live, the most abundant wood is Acacia, which grows twisted and has many knots and extremely resilient fibres. The S1 is a thicker blade, and the fact that its laminated VG10 as opposed to solid VG10 in the WM1 offers (in my mind) more flexibility to the blade. The S1 also retains a blade height thats not too high, and not too low - in my mind, the s1 is the perfect knife for me :)
Cool video. I really enjoyed watching it. Exactly what I wanted to see about both knifes. Thanks for making!
so glad that you got the Aurora. I had a feeling that it would hold up well.
Excellent test, Virtuovice. Clearly the Aurora took 1/3rd of the effort out of your work on the thicker cross-cut. This was the first time I'd seen anyone test a knife using a cross-cut and it was a telling test.
I suspect Spyderco Bushcraft has a V micro bevel out of the box. I personally don't like O1 because it is on a soft side. And I need a versatile handle to a 4 inch blade for my game dressing.
Your Puma knife seems to be hollow grind. It won't have wood cutting potential but is only for slicing like game dressing. Woods knives should be Scandi grind or shallow convex grind IMO. Thanks.
I don't know how I missed this video! Glad to see you got an Aurora. I sold my 3V to try other knives and just picked it up again in A2. 3V is better, specially the tip! But A2 strops us easier of course. Great to hear your thoughts!
Bark River often make a large angle to their 3V knives. So I need to shallow down its geometry in almost all cases to satisfy my needs. I know their 3V holds up in my home made small angle for any of my wood and hunting jobs. I like A2 and 3V steel from Bark River very much. I like Japanese blue paper steel very much too. They are all hard and tough, and satisfy my needs. Thanks.
when I see you baton against the grain through the wood, it makes me shiver. That is what your packsaw is for!
You are correct. But, when testing bite.. against the grain as he has done will give you a good indication of bite. Of course, as you so stated, in the field you would use the packsaw
I really like how versatile the Aurora is, infact I was close to purchasing it, but i chose the S1 instead. At last a realistic knife abuse video - no battoning through bricks and punching through car bonnets and oil drums -.-'. Thanks
D2 chips in a paper edge where A2 or O1 bends. D2 needs around 30 degrees obviously never to take chipping. Then D2 will make a great edge. But we will never be able to get rid of our anxiety that it might chip. I am confident that 3V never chips nor bends in our regular hard use in 30 degrees. Thanks.
Aurora from The-Knife-Connection in the US. Chosera from Ippintei in Japan. The both are online. Thanks.
Among all kinds of Bark River knives Aurora especially in CPM-3V is the most versatile and easiest to be used, I think. I love Aurora so much. I don't need Bravo-1 anymore.
the best videos on knife- logy on the web
Hello Dr Waco,
thank you for your knife videos, always very much full of info.
Can you please advise where you purchased your Bark River Aurora in 3V from ?
Also, please advise where you purchase your Chosera Water stones from ?
Online or actual store in Japan ?
Cheers and Happy Camping !
My home made grind is very shallow convex on the left side to whittle wood for feathersticking and regular convex on the right side to slide on bones for game dressing. I don't like the real zero Scandi grind because it bites wood too deep and bites bones. Thanks.
Perhaps a ffg with a convex edge was what I meant. I find the amount of steel removal in scandi sharpening to be more than any other grind barring the ffg. However the results when the blade hits the wood makes it all worth it. Do you prefer convex on game and scandi on wood?
I've heard from many sources all the Enzo scandi grinds need a micro bevel to prevent chipping unless it's in O1.
My D2 Badger didn't have any chipping after boning a deer. D2 needs larger angle, and if possible convex geometry. Thanks.
Virtuo San, just when I thought I'd made my mind up on buying the Enzo Camper D2, you go and prove the brittle nature of D2 tool steel! Then go and throw the Aurora in the mix for good measure! Which seems to have outstanding blade geometry and edge retention values. Though I suspect the B.R. Aurora to be at least twice the price or the Enzo, maybe as much as nearly three times the price here in UK? Be interested to see if the Enzo edge holds better after the slight re-profile? Regards, Dazza.
The 220 finish is full of micro serrations and cannot take compound stropping directly. BR black compound is some like 3000 grit IMO. Thanks.
Judging from those chips, I would say D2 is a hunting steel. Not bushcraft. But it's possible that the extra hardness is due to Enzo's heat treating.
Wako you are searching for a reckoning....looking for answers....if I didn't know what you are looking for...I would ask Have YOU gone MAD!?
Awesome to watch as always. How is the handle in those gloves? Do you lose touch? Do you feel everything?
Yes. It is a genuine bushcraft knife and won't do for fishing or hunting I agree. Thanks.
I didn't know Spyderco Bushcraft doesn't have a micro bevel. I had a prejudice to Spyderco. I don't like the full flat grind because it is the toughest to sharpen and the most difficult to make a keen edge on. For my utility knives I prefer hollow grind since it is very easy to sharpen. I sometimes sharpen my fruit cutting folding knife, Spyderco H1 Pacific Salt. H1 is not so durable. Its hollow bevel is easy to me. For outdoor knives I prefer Scandi and convex grind generally speaking. Thanks.
Do you own a Spyderco Bushcraft? Just wondering your opinion on that knife. Also, I have a Puma stag bowie 116396. It slices great as its a hunting knife but it has a 30 degree grind which does not allow it to shave wood at all. Its horrible with wood. Would you advise I attempt to lower the grind angle to possibly achieve a more well rounded woods knife?
You need to take the Bark River Aurora with you when you start hunting again.
Tell me what you think.
Like your videos keep up the good work.
Dr. Wako,
Curiously, what kind of performance would you expect from such bushcrafting exercises if you left the 120/220 finish from the stone, and then stropped with BR Black compound only?
Kind regards,
TIA
Thats great. Busse knives does something like that. I believe they use a flat on one side and a convex on the other. Do you have to switch hands for game? Thanks so much for answering all my questions.
I have owned the Spydie for about 8 months. Mine has never had a micro bevel on it. As far as comfort in carving, the Spyderco is top notch. Not sure how the scandi would work for you on game. Every carving grip is a pleasure and has yet to create a hot spot. Yes the Puma is a hollow grind. I have seen some people do pretty amazing woodwork with a hollow grind. I would rather have the scandi as well or convex. How do you feel about a ffg blade. Some guys swear they are the ultimate in utility.
Steel being soft has all to do with the temper. 01 is a tool steel and can be hardened to an extremely high RC. 52100 ball bearing steel at 50 RC is softer than 01 at 57RC and so on. To each his own brother. What kind of blade do you usually prefer?
I think toughness is less on D2. It will need 30 degrees never to take chipping. D2 holds its sharpness very long due to its hardness like 3V. Thanks.
Wako I am looking for your video where you put a different grind on each side and the knife went through wood extremely quick, like a laser beam. I think it was an A2 Gunny. Would that be correct?
Waco san,
Have you ever used the Aurora as a hunting knife? I know it would not be ideal, but is it suitable enough?
Natural Canvas w/ black liners. It looks nice in my opinion.
On my knife by the spine isnt flat like yours. Convex is 100% on yours its flat then transitions into convex. Did they change the style? Also the bottom of my handles are sharp
No. I hold a wood stick with my left hand and use only the left side bevel to make a featherstick. I twist the edge clockwise and use only the right side bevel to remove muscles from bones. I am righty. Thanks.
Wako, do you think it's better to purchase bark river regular aurora or scandi grind aurora? They are accepting preorders for cru-wear in both grinds, do you recommend to choose regular convex grind or scandi (scandivex) ?
Also, do you recommend 3v or cruwear? Thank you.
Also
Hello, I have some experience of their Scandi-convex grind. Its apex angle looks very large over 40 degrees because of its grind lowness and strong convex curve, so it cannot bite deep. So I highly recommend their standard convex grind whose apex angle looks like under 30 degrees which is still tough enough.
The Cru-wear looks like having high hardness over HRC61 while the 3V is 59~60 which is tougher.
brkgallery.com/2012/album01/Knife_Steel_Chart_with_20CV_and_Elmax_and_Cru_Wear
@@virtuovice thank you very much!
Interesting point, wasn't aware of different D2 steels? Anyway, on reflection, I'm still inclined think the Enzo Camper is a good knife for the price. The Aurora is twice the price here in UK, but is it twice the knife? In the real world I think not! If money isn't a problem, buy an Aurora or two! I think the Enzo would be a good knife in the £100 bracket and perform well under 'normal' use. Regards Dazza.
Hey virtuo, would you say that the steel on the enzo is just a bit weak, because of how the steel is made?
Dear Virtu, which is the brand of your gloves ?
Thank you and best
They are Mechanix MPACT. They have various colors and I bought 3 pairs from eBay. Thanks.
You must be great at parties. I think this is a classic example of "thy doth protest too much"
i buy the bark river in 19c27 the best knife for bushcraft and survival im very happy!
D2 is known to be brittle and with that paper thin edge it's (or any steel) not appropriate for heavy batoning. I'm impressed with the 3V Aurora but still wouldn't use it for that kind of batoning. I carry a large and a small knife and sometimes an axe. I reserve my small knife for delicate tasks including small batoning for kindling. If in a complete survival situation, then you must use what you have and in this case you'd be better off with the Aurora. I'm sticking with 01 Enzos.
I prefer Aurora too. All day long. But it doesn’t make me not seeing you were bias during the test in the favour of Aurora. Specially on first wood cutting test, you could use way more force on Enzo because of its handle design. Enzo could win the cutting test.
I'd rather see Aurora 3v against Enzo in Elmax steel, that would be a fair comparison
hi IMHO I think is not a fair comparation, no same grind scandi sure is going to chip easier.
I feel like if anything this video is for people who turn their noses up at D2
Which is why he says this is "abuse."
Take it easy man. His methods teach us the clear differences between different grinds and steels. He isn't teaching us how to use knives.
BIG BIG price difference between these two knives ....$125 Enzo or $200+ Aurora .....hummmm not enough for the extra cash IMHO.
hehehe I love your passion for knives
The wood you use sounds like styrofoam. Super soft
Ha. I could say the same about your first comment. But apparently it was a joke that went over my head. Very original defense btw "Dude it was just a joke!" lol
And it depends on the party of course. I feel out of place in clubs. I'd rather sit around a camp fire with a couple musicians and some very strong marijuana
But if you called me a dick you'd probably be right. I'm not in a good mood this morning so I probably shouldn't be commenting on youtube
I hope you have a nice day
sounds like dart vader lol
Dat sexy accent tho
Still doesn't make it easier to watch! Also, no need to jump down my throat over a joke, sir.