Virtuovice has really shown me how to use sharpening stones the correct way, now i prefer the flat stones over my sticks that Ive used for years... Im glad i found your channel.
When I log on to TH-cam everyday, your video's are the first I look for. I really enjoy them. I bought my first Bark River following your advice. I'm very happy with it. THANKS!
Wako, please do not be discouraged in any way by the few voices who have attempted to discredit you. You do a wonderful service for the community in sharing your knowledge and educating others. You honestly reported what you found,. The proper response for any company would have been to check its quality controls and and offer to take your knives back and reprofile them with free shipping both ways. Not to attack you.
This reminds me of the time I sent a helper to get a set of Knock Out cutters at a supply house. I sent him off with the name, description and part number for the cutters. He came back telling me that the guy at the supply house had recommended a set and put them down in front of me explaining " He recommended these and he has worked there all his life." I sent the helper back to get what I had told him and explained that; The man at the supply house had experience selling knock out cutters. If I needed advice on what to sell I would be stupid not to defer to him. I had experience using knock out cutters. If someone needed advice on what to use they would be stupid to not heed my advice. Given the 2 involved, you and Bark River. I'd be stupid to take the side of Bark River. You've made you case and all they have done is embarrass themselves.
Wako is well-versed in knife geometry, how to maintain/reporfile them and what works best for HIS TYPE OF WORK! I'm a bushcraft/survivalist myself. Even though I don't hunt, I always learn a great deal from Wako. I owe much of my knowledge about blade geometry and sharpening to you Dr. Wako! He also INTRODUCED me to Bark River! He always admits he's not a bushcrafter, etc. He's honest and has no reason not to be. He owns loads of Barkies! He's a fan, but sees some issues from time to time...
Wako, I have learned a lot about blade maintenance from watching your videos. Since I have tried your techniques, my knives are much sharper. Thank you very much, and please keep making your quality videos.
I usually couldn't sit still long enough to watch a 25 minute video but it's not a problem with your videos. Always interesting and informative. I always go away with valuable information and become more knowledgeable.
Virtuovice knows more about knife geometry and edge angles than anyone I've ever seen. I definitely trust his opinion more than any other source, original knife manufacturer or not.
Wako-san, Thank you for this excellent demonstration of edge reprofiling! You have again helped the knife community with your in depth observation, explanations and demonstration! Armed with this knowledge, I feel confident to get myself a new S35VN knife by Bark River, it will be a Gunny with a "happy color handle", I picked Toxic Green. You are a great advocate for convex edge Barkies and trust the company and your YT followers recognize and appreciate that. Good luck for your next deer hunt!
Hi! I ordered a Gunny in S35, and it had a steep micro bevel. I sent it back, and ordered one from DLT Trading. It was a perfect convex grind! Bark River knives seem to be very inconsistent compared to Spyderco and Benchmade, and it would be nice to buy one in person. The Gunny S35 also had a thinner edge than my A2 Gunny. I used a micrometer, and the 35VN model was much thinner at 3mm from the edge.
Dr., I'm considering getting a Aurora LT but I can't decide what steel option. I plan to do a wide variety of bushcraft tasks. I've watched many of your pros and cons videos of each, but I'm at a loss. Is convex CPM3V just too difficult to sharpen in the field? Thanks.
+aHigher Power I don't recommend you LT versions in general. It tends to take too small an angle by water stone sharpening. I don't think 3V is very difficult to sharpen. But all the 3V versions have fat geometry and cannot have as small an angle as A2 versions can. Thanks.
@@virtuovice hello mister Wako, i am disabled in a wheelchair. i got in love in bravo 1 s35vn do u suggest me to buy it? it will be my first brk rvr knife.. i have helle temagami ss, helle mandra, zt 0180, 0301, 0392blkgrn, kabar bk7. thanks for reading :)
+Trikpa I like to apply Nagura to fine grit stones. It produces slurry and makes the sharpening feel very smooth. It also makes the bevel shine better. www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/5-tennen-nagura.htm It is not necessary stuff but just a complement.
I am a big fan of Bark River knives definitely. So I don't care about paying money to investigate them. I understand CPM-S35VN is a bit better than S30V. They commonly take chips before rolls. CPM-3V is much better than D2. They commonly take chips before rolls. S35VN and 3V are better than S30V and D2 definitely. A2 and 154CM are no chippy and holds fairly long. Their performances are excellent no doubt while S35VN and 3V still have much doubt. I want to make it clear for knife people. Thanks.
Hello, Thanks to you i was inspired to buy Japanese Naniwa super stones and a good strop, and started sharpening every knife we have. I know its not as good as the Chosera but its all i can afford. All my knives are now SCARY sharp! My wife is afraid of all the knives, so i know i did a good job! I now understand why you like a Convex knife/edge. Full flat grind is also very good and can be stropped very easily with a convex micro edge. I will try to get a Fox River because of you. THANKS.
I've followed the sparky comments on the 3 videos on the micro bevel. Heated discussions. This is to be cherished, not regretted. Difference of opinion is found in all the science and tech disciplines. The classroom situation often involves high emotions. It is a sign that learning is going on. Maybe not for folks who are already highly learned on the subject, but certainly for the majority of viewers. In personal styles of commentary, learning happens, too.
Hello, you will not be happy with Scandinavian grind to 4mm thick blade from my experience. Scandinavian grind is suited for 3mm thick blade in my experience. My best folding knife currently available is Benchmade Griptillian 551 in 154CM. Thanks.
Yes. I am still considering buying a Barkie based only on Wako's vids. I got some flashlights that I am very happy with because of his reviews and I got some BR black and white compound for my homemade strops. I trust his opinion and he makes sense to me. He seems like a very honorable man. I feel lucky to have found his channel.
Wako, please continue to do what you do. Do not let the haters dissuade you from honest reviews. I watched the video very carefully and what you displayed with the microscope and the explanation Mr. Stewart provided on his forum simply does not comport. It reminds me of the old cliche: Who are you going to believe? Me or your lying eyes? I know what the difference between a shoulder and a polish line look like. Good job Wako, thank you.
Very beautiful finished edge at the end of the video. Interesting to see the individual particles still attached at some points along the edge-your microscope is very good. I wish that i had the skill to sharpen by hand with the chosera stones like you do. I use the Apex pro for my pocket knives and it does a nice job indeed but i feel like you must get more satisfaction preparing the edge by hand. Thank you for another great video
Great work on your videos. Very educational. Too many Companies respond with emotion, when constructive reviews are presented. Thanks for stating your opinion and clearly showing your findings on edge geometry.
Thanks for this. A Gunny S35VN rampless (orange G10 handle) arrived for me today. It has the same secondary profile problem as yours, especially towards the tip, and more so on one side. It doesn't worry me greatly though, especially after watching this video. I will restore it in a similar way. This is my 3rd Bark River, all because of having watched your videos. I must say though, that I am completely satisfied with BRK A2 steel as a one deer knife steel.
I have a off topic question for you, if I may. Companies like cold steel or Kabar sell cheaper versions of some of their knives made with steel from China or Taiwan. I was wondering, if I were to buy one of these, what kind of steel would you recommend from those countries? Thank you for your time.
I have said a wrong angle many times because I was confused about the factory made angle. I mistook it as 40 degrees sometimes because some of old fashioned military knives have 40 degree angle on its secondary V edge. Many V edges seem to be 30 degrees in correct. My convex edge angle is a bit smaller than the factory angle. So my angle will be 25 to 30 degrees generally. In case the original angle is 40 degrees, I make around 35 degree convex edge. I cannot say which is the best knife for now.
That's what sets great companies apart - treating their buyers with respect, as an integral part of their product development, quality and success. Everyone would have seen Bark River taking responsibility for their brand and product and been impressed. It would have been a win for all.
3V needs larger angle not to chip. So I don't put a small angle on my 3V knives. They are not as sharp as others even before the use. My S35VN Gunny angle is the same as A2 one. And S35VN holds longer than A2. S30V is chippy in a small angle. I like S35VN > A2 > S30V > 3V. The chip size of 3V is pretty large and its restoration needs me to increase its edge angle. 3V is pretty durable in a large angle but cannot hold a small angled sharp edge in my experience. Thanks.
I'm a big fan of your videos. I've watched all your them on TH-cam. I recently bought some knives based on your recommendations in some of your videos. I have a fox river LT, fix river two, bravo 1 in s35vn, black jack 125, and a Canadian special LT. This weekend I used these knives to skin a cow. After I skinned the cow, all the blades have microchips and micro rolls. All the knives were in factory edge. In your videos, when you have skinned deer; even though you hit the bones of the deer your knife does not have any chip or rolls. What is your recommendation on what I should do with my knives to prevent microchips or rolls? I have seen you used wet stone sharpening, does that process make the edge of the knife stronger? Bottom line is how come my knives chip, but yours are in mint condition after use even though my knives edge angle are larger than yours.
+Ms Cha The factory edges are finished with high speed machines. So their heat treat of the apex might have turned weak. After some sharpening and stropping those edges will appear stronger maybe. Thanks.
Yes, field dressing or what we call "boning out" of Sika and Red deer. Removing the hind quarter, back strap and shoulder meat. Similar to what Virtuovice does but we seldom take the neck and secondary cuts. Our carries are often many hours over very rugged terrain. I have been a professional and recreational hunter for 45 years and have shot hundreds of deer so have perfected my methods. I use many less cuts than Virtuovice so that might explain my A2 lasting so well.
Hi which is the best edge do you like full convex bevel or flat grind with convex micro bevel and what edge degree do you like for hunting purpose and which is your best and great knife... Thank you...
Good one. Can you do a diagram on these Grinds your describing. what is happening here? You got a Bark River knife. it came with a Primary Compound Bevel (Double Bevel) Grind? did you Reprofile this to a Convex? Removing the Shoulder of the double Bevel?If this is correct, then The Double Bevel is a Chipping Grind, or is it the Steel that is chipping? Feeling a Bit confused.? Cheers ;-))
I think your reviews are very clear and proven to a very good extent on why you think one thing or the other. If someone does not like it....well they are in the wrong business. I have seen that in a lot of knife business that think they know everything and that the way they do business is the right one, however at the same time i have seen that almost every knife company do business in a different way....Meaning that in knifes....your opinion is yours and none can tell you are wrong
I would never have bought my Bravo1, CPM 3V, rampless knife if it weren't for the reviews from Doc. I'm not a hunter, but Doc gives out tons of useful information. With my plastic jeweler's loupe, I think I see the cursed secondary bevel, but have a microscope on the way from Amazon to get a better look. I'm not so worried about it because the knife's purpose is primarily as a wood processor. But, I will smooth out any shoulder by sanding 'n' stropping if it proves to have a shoulder.
Every spends are taken by bark river? I was wondering how I get my knifes from Germany to Michigan if something happens but I just will send a knife to them if a handle breaks, shrinks or the wood splits. And with the angels so I can use the work sharp without a problem, I added a 25degree angle to the Bushcraft and suddenly it was my sharpest knife. I love this company and you mr Wako.
Good video. Now that looks like a convex edge after your reprofiling. No shoulder or transition line. Only at the tip, like you said. You can fix that next time you sharpen. Clearly a different edge than what came from factory. Very curious to see how it holds up after use in the field. Thanks again.
Yep, I agree for the most part, there are some fanatical people behind Mike Stewart. There are also some people who consider Bark River a personal sort of experience because of things Mike Stewart does such as the grind in experience. I'm not defending any of them, I do think it's a shame that some people choose not to buy the knives based around the owner and a handful of misguided people. The folks who work for Bark River are great, as are the knives - and the customer service. Just a shame.
Hello Virtuovice!! I really trust in your knowlege and expereicne, so I want to make you a question: I want to buy a Bark River Bravo 1, but I don´t know if buy it in CPM-S35VN or in A2. I allways go for old school carbon steel, but... ¿What do you think?. Your opinion is very important for me. About sharpening, I have fallkniven DC-4 and Leather Strop with Bark River Compounds. Thanks you very much.
S35VN is an improved S30V which is very hard but less tough and relatively easy to take major chipping. So S30V cannot make a true survival knife but S35VN can because it has higher toughness than S30V. I have a little experience with S35VN for deer dressing. It took a micro linear snap off the apex. Its toughness is improved but A2 should be tougher. Unless you need rust resistance, A2 will fit you better for Bravo1. Thanks.
I feel sorry for Wako who's been trying to make perfect balanced revs and thoughts to share with every knife-lover, even sometime these thoughts and conclusions upsets someone, there alway some narrow-minded... but why would you care? Wako! don't loose your precious time with these kind of men instead of keep making great videos. you have my fully support man. you did fantastic job, carry on!!!
If the edge angle is the same, the supporting back metal is less on the zero grind convex. You seemingly say about the case where we grind off the apex to make a tougher convex edge. But in deer dressing I need small edge angle for sharpness and the edge always touches bones hard. A convex edge doesn't bite bones but slide on it. So it is much tougher than a V edge eventually even in a small angle. A convex geometry seems to take 5 degree minus angle than a V edge keeping the same toughness.
nothing can i said. wako is professional no argument with him. instead he also so kind to check the knife tang thru xray for me, when i need he's favor b4. thank you wako will support ur channel.! keep it up!
Wako is like a scientist. He observes and experiments. He analyzes the edge performance with a very scientific eye. He knows what he's talking about. And he shares his findings, just like a scientist would do. He praises a good knife, and also tells us when a knife is not good. He is a BR fan, faithful customer for a long time, and he knows their blades, their steels and their edges. Why do they attack him now? If they attack constructive criticism, they are not as ethical as one would expect.
Thanx for your dedication and sharing and making us a tad bit better at our hobby...can you please share what kind of microscope and stones + grits you use Im sure were all trying to perfect the art/skill you share and hold.. Thanx so much love yer vids and that samurai way you speak much respect. Peace
Recently Bark River doesn't polish up the bevel totally zero grind but leave the deep angled apex. I say it secondary micro bevel and it makes the shoulder which prevent us from stropping the edge. So I ground off the shoulder. It was a necessary process to make the new Bark River edge like the old zero grind convex edge. Thanks.
Truely a great sharpener. Wish you all the best from norway. Would love a set a of thoose chooseras with base i have the naniwa professional without base but they are thinner and the base really helps with knuckle clearance too 😊
Dig all your videos Dr. Wako! Thank you for your honesty and integrity. Please keep it up....I look forward to your videos as they always teach me something.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos; please keep on making them! A suggestion for a hunting/general knife is a Roselli UHC Hunting knife; it has a Scandi-grind and a rather beefy handle :) Thank you!
I use Nikon X20 Binocular Microscope and put a small videocam on its eyepiece. I use Chosera 400, 600, 800, 2000 grit. Generally 600 and 2000 will be enough for outdoor knife sharpening. Thanks.
I cannot say how much the micro bevel decrease its performance in wood cutting. I am not a bushcrafter and have little interest in it. The angle of recent Bark River micro bevel is fairly large and its cutting performance is less than before for sure in deer dressing. I can make my needed angle myself, but when the steel comes to 3V, I don't want to regrind it as small angle as A2 regarding for chipping. Thanks.
Knives are like Tires all the same in conclusion but differ in design. Some work , some don't. Dr. Wako provides a hands on performance testing on each and every knife he reviews. How can you disregard any type of hands on field testing with video on the performance of the knives? You Cannot!!! @virtuovice Keep Up The Great Reviews!!!
Another great video doctor. I read the thread on the BRKT forum and was left with a pretty bad taste in my mouth. The evidence is clearly in the video.
that's right, this "kind of thing" I ain't bothered and I don't even want to waste one single minute to argue about. i believe you are the same. but here we are just for bring some support for Wako, and get rid off these non-senses crap.I think that worth to spend a few moment on.
My older A2 bark river has a very shallow zero grind but all 3v knifes I have owned are very steep and came with a shoulder that was visible under a jewelers loop. If bark river really was grinding these to zero degrees then no shoulder would be visible; doesn't matter if its a steep or shallow apex, there would still not be a shoulder anywhere. If you can see a shoulder(and in some bad cases you can FEEL the shoulder on a hard stone like a shapton) than it has either an intentional or unintentional microbevel. Its not a coincidence that the edge changed only after they started using 3v. Virtuovice is right in my opinion. I also think its possible that they are "polishing" the knives on a slack belt which is rounding the edge over. I like bark river but these knives cost more than a lot of custom makers and their heat treat of 3v seems standard. They were known mostly for their convex geometr; what's the point if that isn't consistent?
Wako, why don't you put some painter tape (masking tape) on the blade (just exposing the edge) when you work on the stones so you don't ruin the original polish of the blade?
Your primary use for a knife is obviously dressing game on the field. You know what works for you better than anybody else. Some other people use these knives for other chores like bushcrafting, what do you think about this new factory microvebel on such use? are we ever going to see a video of your edge vs. Bark River new secondary edge working on wood?
Do you make more money from posting your videos on TH-cam than from working as a doctor? Interesting video. I have a Bravo 1.5 3V, and I accidentally touched the edge on a rock, very lightly, and it chipped off a small part. I wonder if this happened because the knife has a secondary bevel and is not true convex grind all the way. I will try to remove it with sandpaper placed on a soft mouse pad. Is Bark River really the best knife maker in the World? I have a Fallkniven TK2, and it is the most beautiful, comfortable, and all over greatest knife I have seen.
I think it's an employee issue, some are more skilled than others. Seems their convex grinding can be all over the map and has gotten worse now. It's these super steels costing so much on using belts to grind them. I honestly like the older steels like 1095hc , 80CrV2 , 12C27 and 14C28N., good U.S 420hc . Yes you gotta strop or use a rod for a couple minutes but ya have way less sharpening stress and chipping issues. Plus cost is much better.
I shave with a straight razor.. I think for extra sharpness you should strop on plain leather after stropping on the white compound..at least this is how it is done with straight razor shaving.. Just give it a try and see.. you should also see how stropping a straight razor is done..maybe it work on knives too.. Great edge on the gunny... Greetings..
You can hate Mike Stewart for many reasons, but BRKT's QC is fairly good and they honor their warranty without question. Wako did a much better job in this video of showing what was meant - I think a lot of the reasons people responded negatively in his last video were comments made about using a machine to sharpen and intentionally putting a secondary bevel on the knife. Things get lost in translation, or some things did for me. I've always liked Wako's videos.
Yes, I would. The problem of Elmax is its possible micro chippy property shown by bone contacting or knot splitting. Otherwise it must hold its keenest edge substantially longer than S35VN. Suppose the hardness of S30V is 59, S35VN is upgraded on its toughness, but its hardness is still 59. On the other hand the hardness of Elmax is 61 while it might show a little chippy property in a hard use. For food prep or EDC purposes it should show only its super edge holding very well not showing its weak point at all. Thanks.
Everybody Loves Virtuovice!!!!
I'm learning quite a bit from you. Thank you for sharing your hobby. It is very relaxing to watch too.
Been watching your knife videos for awhile now and I just wanted to say thank you...
Virtuovice has really shown me how to use sharpening stones the correct way, now i prefer the flat stones over my sticks that Ive used for years... Im glad i found your channel.
When I log on to TH-cam everyday, your video's are the first I look for. I really enjoy them. I bought my first Bark River following your advice.
I'm very happy with it.
THANKS!
Wako, please do not be discouraged in any way by the few voices who have attempted to discredit you. You do a wonderful service for the community in sharing your knowledge and educating others. You honestly reported what you found,. The proper response for any company would have been to check its quality controls and and offer to take your knives back and reprofile them with free shipping both ways. Not to attack you.
This reminds me of the time I sent a helper to get a set of Knock Out cutters at a supply house. I sent him off with the name, description and part number for the cutters. He came back telling me that the guy at the supply house had recommended a set and put them down in front of me explaining " He recommended these and he has worked there all his life." I sent the helper back to get what I had told him and explained that; The man at the supply house had experience selling knock out cutters. If I needed advice on what to sell I would be stupid not to defer to him. I had experience using knock out cutters. If someone needed advice on what to use they would be stupid to not heed my advice. Given the 2 involved, you and Bark River. I'd be stupid to take the side of Bark River. You've made you case and all they have done is embarrass themselves.
Wako is well-versed in knife geometry, how to maintain/reporfile them and what works best for HIS TYPE OF WORK! I'm a bushcraft/survivalist myself. Even though I don't hunt, I always learn a great deal from Wako. I owe much of my knowledge about blade geometry and sharpening to you Dr. Wako! He also INTRODUCED me to Bark River! He always admits he's not a bushcrafter, etc. He's honest and has no reason not to be. He owns loads of Barkies! He's a fan, but sees some issues from time to time...
Wako, I have learned a lot about blade maintenance from watching your videos. Since I have tried your techniques, my knives are much sharper. Thank you very much, and please keep making your quality videos.
I usually couldn't sit still long enough to watch a 25 minute video but it's not a problem with your videos. Always interesting and informative. I always go away with valuable information and become more knowledgeable.
Virtuovice knows more about knife geometry and edge angles than anyone I've ever seen. I definitely trust his opinion more than any other source, original knife manufacturer or not.
I don't know why but I find your videos soothing
I do as well, and I watch them right before bed and start snoozing in front of my laptop.
Wako-san, Thank you for this excellent demonstration of edge reprofiling! You have again helped the knife community with your in depth observation, explanations and demonstration! Armed with this knowledge, I feel confident to get myself a new S35VN knife by Bark River, it will be a Gunny with a "happy color handle", I picked Toxic Green. You are a great advocate for convex edge Barkies and trust the company and your YT followers recognize and appreciate that. Good luck for your next deer hunt!
Hi!
I ordered a Gunny in S35, and it had a steep micro bevel. I sent it back, and ordered one from DLT Trading. It was a perfect convex grind! Bark River knives seem to be very inconsistent compared to Spyderco and Benchmade, and it would be nice to buy one in person. The Gunny S35 also had a thinner edge than my A2 Gunny. I used a micrometer, and the 35VN model was much thinner at 3mm from the edge.
Dr., I'm considering getting a Aurora LT but I can't decide what steel option. I plan to do a wide variety of bushcraft tasks. I've watched many of your pros and cons videos of each, but I'm at a loss. Is convex CPM3V just too difficult to sharpen in the field? Thanks.
+aHigher Power I don't recommend you LT versions in general. It tends to take too small an angle by water stone sharpening. I don't think 3V is very difficult to sharpen. But all the 3V versions have fat geometry and cannot have as small an angle as A2 versions can. Thanks.
@@virtuovice hello mister Wako, i am disabled in a wheelchair. i got in love in bravo 1 s35vn do u suggest me to buy it? it will be my first brk rvr knife.. i have helle temagami ss, helle mandra, zt 0180, 0301, 0392blkgrn, kabar bk7. thanks for reading :)
@@TheAcidheat S35VN won't take micro chips. 3G in Fallkniven won't too. They both look like the toughest stainless steels.
Thank you for these very good videos. Which kind of stuff you put on your whetstone before to use it ? (I have just baught a BR gunny S35VN)
+Trikpa I like to apply Nagura to fine grit stones. It produces slurry and makes the sharpening feel very smooth. It also makes the bevel shine better.
www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/5-tennen-nagura.htm
It is not necessary stuff but just a complement.
It was 0.5mm or so. When I find it again, I will give you a more macro view through a regular magnifying glass. It was needed. Thanks.
I am a big fan of Bark River knives definitely. So I don't care about paying money to investigate them. I understand CPM-S35VN is a bit better than S30V. They commonly take chips before rolls. CPM-3V is much better than D2. They commonly take chips before rolls. S35VN and 3V are better than S30V and D2 definitely. A2 and 154CM are no chippy and holds fairly long. Their performances are excellent no doubt while S35VN and 3V still have much doubt. I want to make it clear for knife people. Thanks.
I am a big fan of you and your videos and bark river knives. Hello from West Central Illinois home of big whitetail Buck's "deer" 👍
I'd like to see a video of you comparing S35VN to A2 and 3V, How does it fare in comparison? is it a chippy steel the 35VN?
Wako, thanks for your continued effort in sharing your passion with the world for its own sake.
Hello, Thanks to you i was inspired to buy Japanese Naniwa super stones and a good strop, and started sharpening every knife we have. I know its not as good as the Chosera but its all i can afford. All my knives are now SCARY sharp! My wife is afraid of all the knives, so i know i did a good job!
I now understand why you like a Convex knife/edge. Full flat grind is also very good and can be stropped very easily with a convex micro edge. I will try to get a Fox River because of you. THANKS.
I've followed the sparky comments on the 3 videos on the micro bevel. Heated discussions. This is to be cherished, not regretted. Difference of opinion is found in all the science and tech disciplines. The classroom situation often involves high emotions. It is a sign that learning is going on. Maybe not for folks who are already highly learned on the subject, but certainly for the majority of viewers. In personal styles of commentary, learning happens, too.
Hello, what folding knives recommended by you? is Elmax Scandinavian knives are good? Thank You.
Hello, you will not be happy with Scandinavian grind to 4mm thick blade from my experience. Scandinavian grind is suited for 3mm thick blade in my experience. My best folding knife currently available is Benchmade Griptillian 551 in 154CM. Thanks.
Yes. I am still considering buying a Barkie based only on Wako's vids. I got some flashlights that I am very happy with because of his reviews and I got some BR black and white compound for my homemade strops. I trust his opinion and he makes sense to me. He seems like a very honorable man. I feel lucky to have found his channel.
Wako, please continue to do what you do. Do not let the haters dissuade you from honest reviews. I watched the video very carefully and what you displayed with the microscope and the explanation Mr. Stewart provided on his forum simply does not comport. It reminds me of the old cliche: Who are you going to believe? Me or your lying eyes? I know what the difference between a shoulder and a polish line look like. Good job Wako, thank you.
Wako how do you like the Gunny in S35VN compared with the A-2? How does S35VN perform compared with S30V, A-2 and 3V?
Very beautiful finished edge at the end of the video. Interesting to see the individual particles still attached at some points along the edge-your microscope is very good. I wish that i had the skill to sharpen by hand with the chosera stones like you do. I use the Apex pro for my pocket knives and it does a nice job indeed but i feel like you must get more satisfaction preparing the edge by hand. Thank you for another great video
Waco, I love this vid! It is full of passion, insight, instruction and entertainment. I truly appreciate what you do here. Thank you.
Great work on your videos. Very educational. Too many Companies respond with emotion, when constructive reviews are presented. Thanks for stating your opinion and clearly showing your findings on edge geometry.
I learned a lot from this video ,keep them coming.
Thanks for this. A Gunny S35VN rampless (orange G10 handle) arrived for me today. It has the same secondary profile problem as yours, especially towards the tip, and more so on one side. It doesn't worry me greatly though, especially after watching this video. I will restore it in a similar way. This is my 3rd Bark River, all because of having watched your videos. I must say though, that I am completely satisfied with BRK A2 steel as a one deer knife steel.
I just bought this exact same knife from a guy on facebook. He got it from you, I really like your work on it.
I have a off topic question for you, if I may. Companies like cold steel or Kabar sell cheaper versions of some of their knives made with steel from China or Taiwan. I was wondering, if I were to buy one of these, what kind of steel would you recommend from those countries? Thank you for your time.
I could actually hear the difference in the paper cuts. The A2 sounded raspier.
Thank you for another great video.
I have said a wrong angle many times because I was confused about the factory made angle. I mistook it as 40 degrees sometimes because some of old fashioned military knives have 40 degree angle on its secondary V edge. Many V edges seem to be 30 degrees in correct. My convex edge angle is a bit smaller than the factory angle. So my angle will be 25 to 30 degrees generally. In case the original angle is 40 degrees, I make around 35 degree convex edge. I cannot say which is the best knife for now.
You're the best knife reviewer on youtube for sure.
That's what sets great companies apart - treating their buyers with respect, as an integral part of their product development, quality and success. Everyone would have seen Bark River taking responsibility for their brand and product and been impressed. It would have been a win for all.
3V needs larger angle not to chip. So I don't put a small angle on my 3V knives. They are not as sharp as others even before the use. My S35VN Gunny angle is the same as A2 one. And S35VN holds longer than A2. S30V is chippy in a small angle. I like S35VN > A2 > S30V > 3V. The chip size of 3V is pretty large and its restoration needs me to increase its edge angle. 3V is pretty durable in a large angle but cannot hold a small angled sharp edge in my experience. Thanks.
I'm a big fan of your videos. I've watched all your them on TH-cam. I recently bought some knives based on your recommendations in some of your videos. I have a fox river LT, fix river two, bravo 1 in s35vn, black jack 125, and a Canadian special LT. This weekend I used these knives to skin a cow. After I skinned the cow, all the blades have microchips and micro rolls. All the knives were in factory edge. In your videos, when you have skinned deer; even though you hit the bones of the deer your knife does not have any chip or rolls. What is your recommendation on what I should do with my knives to prevent microchips or rolls? I have seen you used wet stone sharpening, does that process make the edge of the knife stronger? Bottom line is how come my knives chip, but yours are in mint condition after use even though my knives edge angle are larger than yours.
+Ms Cha The factory edges are finished with high speed machines. So their heat treat of the apex might have turned weak. After some sharpening and stropping those edges will appear stronger maybe. Thanks.
Yes, field dressing or what we call "boning out" of Sika and Red deer. Removing the hind quarter, back strap and shoulder meat. Similar to what Virtuovice does but we seldom take the neck and secondary cuts. Our carries are often many hours over very rugged terrain. I have been a professional and recreational hunter for 45 years and have shot hundreds of deer so have perfected my methods. I use many less cuts than Virtuovice so that might explain my A2 lasting so well.
Hi which is the best edge do you like full convex bevel or flat grind with convex micro bevel and what edge degree do you like for hunting purpose and which is your best and great knife... Thank you...
Good one. Can you do a diagram on these Grinds your describing. what is happening here? You got a Bark River knife. it came with a Primary Compound Bevel (Double Bevel) Grind? did you Reprofile this to a Convex? Removing the Shoulder of the double Bevel?If this is correct, then The Double Bevel is a Chipping Grind, or is it the Steel that is chipping? Feeling a Bit confused.? Cheers ;-))
I think your reviews are very clear and proven to a very good extent on why you think one thing or the other. If someone does not like it....well they are in the wrong business. I have seen that in a lot of knife business that think they know everything and that the way they do business is the right one, however at the same time i have seen that almost every knife company do business in a different way....Meaning that in knifes....your opinion is yours and none can tell you are wrong
I would never have bought my Bravo1, CPM 3V, rampless knife if it weren't for the reviews from Doc. I'm not a hunter, but Doc gives out tons of useful information. With my plastic jeweler's loupe, I think I see the cursed secondary bevel, but have a microscope on the way from Amazon to get a better look. I'm not so worried about it because the knife's purpose is primarily as a wood processor. But, I will smooth out any shoulder by sanding 'n' stropping if it proves to have a shoulder.
Every spends are taken by bark river? I was wondering how I get my knifes from Germany to Michigan if something happens but I just will send a knife to them if a handle breaks, shrinks or the wood splits. And with the angels so I can use the work sharp without a problem, I added a 25degree angle to the Bushcraft and suddenly it was my sharpest knife. I love this company and you mr Wako.
great vid man for me your the best around at sharpening & your knowledge of it is second to none
if you say its not right it isn't right
Hello Knife people!!
Good video. Now that looks like a convex edge after your reprofiling. No shoulder or transition line. Only at the tip, like you said. You can fix that next time you sharpen. Clearly a different edge than what came from factory. Very curious to see how it holds up after use in the field. Thanks again.
I don't know the whole story here, but stay awesome, Wako. Your field experience is invaluable.
Yep, I agree for the most part, there are some fanatical people behind Mike Stewart. There are also some people who consider Bark River a personal sort of experience because of things Mike Stewart does such as the grind in experience. I'm not defending any of them, I do think it's a shame that some people choose not to buy the knives based around the owner and a handful of misguided people. The folks who work for Bark River are great, as are the knives - and the customer service. Just a shame.
You are a true teacher. Polite, wise and know how to share yours knowledge. You are a great man. Thank you.
Hello Virtuovice!!
I really trust in your knowlege and expereicne, so I want to make you a question:
I want to buy a Bark River Bravo 1, but I don´t know if buy it in CPM-S35VN or in A2. I allways go for old school carbon steel, but... ¿What do you think?. Your opinion is very important for me.
About sharpening, I have fallkniven DC-4 and Leather Strop with Bark River Compounds.
Thanks you very much.
S35VN is an improved S30V which is very hard but less tough and relatively easy to take major chipping. So S30V cannot make a true survival knife but S35VN can because it has higher toughness than S30V. I have a little experience with S35VN for deer dressing. It took a micro linear snap off the apex. Its toughness is improved but A2 should be tougher. Unless you need rust resistance, A2 will fit you better for Bravo1. Thanks.
I can´t say how much you help me. Like always, you helping knife people.
Regards from Argentine and god bless your family and the Great Japan.
Hi, when you say one deer steel, are you processing the entire animal?
I feel sorry for Wako who's been trying to make perfect balanced revs and thoughts to share with every knife-lover, even sometime these thoughts and conclusions upsets someone, there alway some narrow-minded... but why would you care? Wako! don't loose your precious time with these kind of men instead of keep making great videos. you have my fully support man. you did fantastic job, carry on!!!
If the edge angle is the same, the supporting back metal is less on the zero grind convex. You seemingly say about the case where we grind off the apex to make a tougher convex edge. But in deer dressing I need small edge angle for sharpness and the edge always touches bones hard. A convex edge doesn't bite bones but slide on it. So it is much tougher than a V edge eventually even in a small angle. A convex geometry seems to take 5 degree minus angle than a V edge keeping the same toughness.
2 words..THE MASTER....enough said!!!
I was wondering which Microscope you decided on? Hope you can do a review of it here on YT. Thanks.
3v or s35vn, for a survival 6-inch knife?
A very reasoned and to the point response; it is what I would expect from a person such as virtuovice.
most epic line in all man kinds history lol @ the 9:08 mark... lol
Funny shit!!! I BET YOU KNOW ALL BARK RIVER
Epic
nothing can i said. wako is professional no argument with him. instead he also so kind to check the knife tang thru xray for me, when i need he's favor b4. thank you wako will support ur channel.! keep it up!
Hello, what kind of Magnifier is that you are using? A Nikon what?
I use Nikon Fieldmicroscope.
nikon.com/products/sportoptics/lineup/fmicroscope/fieldmicroscope/index.htm
Ok thank you.
Wako is like a scientist. He observes and experiments. He analyzes the edge performance with a very scientific eye. He knows what he's talking about. And he shares his findings, just like a scientist would do. He praises a good knife, and also tells us when a knife is not good. He is a BR fan, faithful customer for a long time, and he knows their blades, their steels and their edges. Why do they attack him now? If they attack constructive criticism, they are not as ethical as one would expect.
Sir, I've learned a great deal of knowledge from you! Thank you .... Your knife friend - Mike
Thank you so much for this video! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. 🙏🇨🇦
nice...I always love your accent...and the way you sharp your knife... thanks....
Thanx for your dedication and sharing and making us a tad bit better at our hobby...can you please share what kind of microscope and stones + grits you use Im sure were all trying to perfect the art/skill you share and hold.. Thanx so much love yer vids and that samurai way you speak much respect. Peace
I wish I could be more like this man
ignore the haters Wako, you are too well informed and informative to waste your time with them.
So I take it this S35vn is somewhat hard to sharpen?
Recently Bark River doesn't polish up the bevel totally zero grind but leave the deep angled apex. I say it secondary micro bevel and it makes the shoulder which prevent us from stropping the edge. So I ground off the shoulder. It was a necessary process to make the new Bark River edge like the old zero grind convex edge. Thanks.
Truely a great sharpener. Wish you all the best from norway. Would love a set a of thoose chooseras with base i have the naniwa professional without base but they are thinner and the base really helps with knuckle clearance too 😊
Dig all your videos Dr. Wako! Thank you for your honesty and integrity. Please keep it up....I look forward to your videos as they always teach me something.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos; please keep on making them! A suggestion for a hunting/general knife is a Roselli UHC Hunting knife; it has a Scandi-grind and a rather beefy handle :)
Thank you!
What is the white compound that you applied to the leather?
I personally don't know about any other white compounds than Bark River's.
I will always be a V Voice fan ! Thanks to you , i have 8 BR knives
I use Nikon X20 Binocular Microscope and put a small videocam on its eyepiece. I use Chosera 400, 600, 800, 2000 grit. Generally 600 and 2000 will be enough for outdoor knife sharpening. Thanks.
I cannot say how much the micro bevel decrease its performance in wood cutting. I am not a bushcrafter and have little interest in it. The angle of recent Bark River micro bevel is fairly large and its cutting performance is less than before for sure in deer dressing. I can make my needed angle myself, but when the steel comes to 3V, I don't want to regrind it as small angle as A2 regarding for chipping. Thanks.
Knives are like Tires all the same in conclusion but differ in design. Some work , some don't. Dr. Wako provides a hands on performance testing on each and every knife he reviews. How can you disregard any type of hands on field testing with video on the performance of the knives? You Cannot!!! @virtuovice Keep Up The Great Reviews!!!
Another great video doctor. I read the thread on the BRKT forum and was left with a pretty bad taste in my mouth. The evidence is clearly in the video.
I think so too. I just hated the metal dust generated by sandpapers. Anyway next chance I will use sandpapers. Thanks.
Wish us luck ， Bark Rivers is Really not cheap。
what do you think about Cold Steel Khukuri SK-5 and the Nepal Khukuri
I rather like my sharpening ugly patterns on my blade. It looks like a real tool. Thanks.
Hello plz tell me your convex edge angle degree looks really sharp...I want to try it on my knife... Thank you...
that's right, this "kind of thing" I ain't bothered and I don't even want to waste one single minute to argue about. i believe you are the same. but here we are just for bring some support for Wako, and get rid off these non-senses crap.I think that worth to spend a few moment on.
I only have 2 Bark Rivers. I think that I will stay with A2 steel. Have a blessed week. John
My older A2 bark river has a very shallow zero grind but all 3v knifes I have owned are very steep and came with a shoulder that was visible under a jewelers loop. If bark river really was grinding these to zero degrees then no shoulder would be visible; doesn't matter if its a steep or shallow apex, there would still not be a shoulder anywhere. If you can see a shoulder(and in some bad cases you can FEEL the shoulder on a hard stone like a shapton) than it has either an intentional or unintentional microbevel.
Its not a coincidence that the edge changed only after they started using 3v. Virtuovice is right in my opinion.
I also think its possible that they are "polishing" the knives on a slack belt which is rounding the edge over.
I like bark river but these knives cost more than a lot of custom makers and their heat treat of 3v seems standard. They were known mostly for their convex geometr; what's the point if that isn't consistent?
notcatfish You are right. I grind off the shoulder so that the apex has a smaller angle and can take proper stropping. Thanks.
Wako, why don't you put some painter tape (masking tape) on the blade (just exposing the edge) when you work on the stones so you don't ruin the original polish of the blade?
YOUR edge is great.
Thanks for the video. Well said and well done.
Your primary use for a knife is obviously dressing game on the field. You know what works for you better than anybody else. Some other people use these knives for other chores like bushcrafting, what do you think about this new factory microvebel on such use? are we ever going to see a video of your edge vs. Bark River new secondary edge working on wood?
Very interesting and informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
That's been my takeaway from his vids, too. All these fancy new powder metallurgy steels don't seem to be worth all the fuss.
Very informative video,thanks and thumbs up.
Do you make more money from posting your videos on TH-cam than from working as a doctor?
Interesting video. I have a Bravo 1.5 3V, and I accidentally touched the edge on a rock, very lightly, and it chipped off a small part. I wonder if this happened because the knife has a secondary bevel and is not true convex grind all the way. I will try to remove it with sandpaper placed on a soft mouse pad.
Is Bark River really the best knife maker in the World? I have a Fallkniven TK2, and it is the most beautiful, comfortable, and all over greatest knife I have seen.
I think it's an employee issue, some are more skilled than others. Seems their convex grinding can be all over the map and has gotten worse now. It's these super steels costing so much on using belts to grind them. I honestly like the older steels like 1095hc , 80CrV2 , 12C27 and 14C28N., good U.S 420hc . Yes you gotta strop or use a rod for a couple minutes but ya have way less sharpening stress and chipping issues.
Plus cost is much better.
I shave with a straight razor.. I think for extra sharpness you should strop on plain leather after stropping on the white compound..at least this is how it is done with straight razor shaving.. Just give it a try and see.. you should also see how stropping a straight razor is done..maybe it work on knives too.. Great edge on the gunny... Greetings..
I support you 100%. If Bark River makes you mad,I will NEVER buy another knife of thiers.
You can hate Mike Stewart for many reasons, but BRKT's QC is fairly good and they honor their warranty without question. Wako did a much better job in this video of showing what was meant - I think a lot of the reasons people responded negatively in his last video were comments made about using a machine to sharpen and intentionally putting a secondary bevel on the knife. Things get lost in translation, or some things did for me. I've always liked Wako's videos.
Do you like 35 or Elmax better?
+BOOSTEDLASER I like Elmax better for deer dressing. Its edge holding is the best of all Bark River steels. But I don't know about bushcraft.
virtuovice if you were going to also use it for food daily food prep would you go elmax over the S35vn? Thanks for all your great videos!
Yes, I would. The problem of Elmax is its possible micro chippy property shown by bone contacting or knot splitting. Otherwise it must hold its keenest edge substantially longer than S35VN. Suppose the hardness of S30V is 59, S35VN is upgraded on its toughness, but its hardness is still 59. On the other hand the hardness of Elmax is 61 while it might show a little chippy property in a hard use. For food prep or EDC purposes it should show only its super edge holding very well not showing its weak point at all. Thanks.
As always, very informative! Thank you Wako!