I haven’t raced or even driven RC in years. My last genuine racing vehicle was the AD2 Gas Truck before I quit racing in early ‘06. (I miss that one). But I still enjoy watching these videos that you put out!
So good!! I’ve mentioned that the light center can be hugely beneficial for us with less talent, maybe hearing it from the man himself will finally get then to try it lol. Great video dude! Keep ‘‘em coming🤘🏻
Always informative and easy to understand, the way you explain things. Always appreciated! Wow, 1.5Mil fluid?! I suppose you have to spoon it into the diff, huh? 😂
I wish I could have made it to TARCAR this last weekend I was gonna see if I could get you to sign my XXX-NT AD2, but things got in the way. You’re best thank you.
Hello Sir,I just want to know if any different between any brand of Diff. Oil and the Traxxas brand? I'm a cuber then the Traxxas lube is really work at the rubiks cube. Thanks in advance in your answer.
Great video! I don’t race but like driving my car on open areas. I found that I lose steering on power and my car just wants to wheelie all the time which makes it very uncontrolable. To prevent it from wheeling and instead have the power translated on the ground should I have thick in the front, maybe 15k front, 10k in the middle and 7k at the back??
Great videos!! Really appreciate the way you explain things. I do have a question tho. You run real low weights so what is the point of 100k, 250k or any other crazy amount? Sounds like there would be no real reason if racing to go less than 5 or no more than maybe 15-20k. Is there a time you can think of to use much heavier weighted fluid? My buddies and I race Arrma Mojave’s and traxxxas UDRs and it’s typically a real low bite track so any help is awesome.
Well in my case I just swapped my front and rears on my felon and limit skyline.. 30k rear on both and 35k on felony front and I’m thinking 40k on the limit front. Im really high grip street and running 1717-1650 and a 4070cm-2200 on the limit. These thicker fluids is bcs unlike off road where we need the diff to slip, it’s the opposite on drag,speed run. I’m trying to keep the car in a solid straight line with no deviation and if I get a wheel that diffs out, I won’t notice it until I loose control or the tire blows out. Power being transferred from the motor to the drive shaft and to the wheels is like lightning… it will always find the easiest path with least resistance.
All I can say is that, 5/5/2 or 5/5/3 is a good starting point for most cars. It really depends on the car itself too. Kyosho suggest that setup, Losi 7/10/4 , AE used to have a base 5/5/5 kit setup.
I’m going to try what I have and go 100k center to start and a little to the 10k stock fluid and hopefully land somewhere between 20-40k on a Kraton 6s v5 . It don’t wheelie and feels like fronts are getting too much but she works good .
Hi, what weight oils would you recommend as a starting point for a 1/8 on road basher truck? Maverick quantum r. I don’t really want the back to kick out and drift, I’m more after balanced handling. Thanks
Bashers should almost universally use something heavy in the center. That's all I can offer you for sure. If your truck doesn't have a center diff and is just a straight drive, look up some videos on how the heavier 200k+ fluids work trying to turn the diffs by hand and decide what looks ballpark right to you. If you don't want the back to drift tune it lighter than the front, but also don't tune the front too heavily or it won't rotate well and might even drag/push on slow-speed tight turns... You can compensate the front dragging by tuning the rear stiffer so it can help the front power over instead of the inside wheel getting power and making the front turn even WORSE. If it's a 2wd, probably leave it stock so it's not a total 1-wheel peeler, IDK. Instead look into chassis/steering changes. Dial in some toe-in on the rear and neutral toe on the front instead of whatever's standard (usually in on the rear, out on the front). You COULD dial toe-in on both ends, but it'll make the car less responsive/sensitive to steering. Always do your research so you have ideal tires. Tires can make or break any setup.
Hi Adam question you might know, what would you recommend on a Losi Sct Nitro for Diff fluids from front to back. My other question is do you know if the shock fluids would be the same for an electric sct? I assume the weight would differ cause of the weight of the truck?
sorry to chime in, being complete noob. how should I choose my diff fluids to be able to do wheelies easier ? I destroyed my rear diff and when changed it I installed 20k silicone oil instead of the factory 10k. I'd love the car to do wheelies if I suddenly do full throttle. The car is Arrma Vorteks 4wd 3s and I geared down to 15T because have bigger tyres now. Or can you suggest resources where I can read and learn about this ?
Not familiar with your car, but probably thicker center. Softer rear and stiffer front suspension would probably help too. You could always add a bunch of weight to the rear too 🙂
thanks Adam , that was really good information , I run in Europe ( Germany )in my TLR 8ight xe elite 7-7-4 , but I want change it to 10-10-7 what you think about it ?
The thing I want to know isn't the end result of what the fluid does but how we get to that result.... If I'm understanding correctly, it's basically a viscous lsd and you're tuning the amount of slip with the fluid but I haven't found any info to confirm or deny that
It's not exactly like that, because it's using a slightly different mechanism to normal viscous diffs (there are no plate stacks in the diffs), but the effect is very similar. Instead of aligned plates moving torque between each other via the "stickiness" of a viscous fluid, the gears are rotating while (mostly) submerged in the fluid, and they need to move it around, push it out from between the gear teeth, etc. But just like in a normal viscous diff, the torque transfer would function based on the speed difference between the axles, and thicker fluid would mean more torque transfer for the same amount of speed difference (aka slip). What I am not so sure on is how the behaviors compare with larger speed differentials (slip amounts) and when heating, whether RC diffs are as linear as normal viscous diffs in their Newtons/rpm behavior. Stickiness of the fluid and shear forces definitely play a big part as well, no doubt about that, but from my experiments comparing heavy weight rated diff oils and damping greases, while the diff oils can be just as heavy or even a lot heavier, they lack the "sticky" properties of damping greases (RC diff oils are GARBAGE at being damping greases basically hehe). This makes me think that they're at least somewhat more focusing on the sheer heaviness of the fluids, making them kinda mechanically harder to push around, rather than maximizing stickiness.
If your local club racing on a not pro groomed dirt track put 7-15-7… its kinda loose, but it will be so easy to drive… time will be made up by not crashing
Sorry i'm new into this. what is 10, 10, 7? Does that mean 100,000 front, 100,000 center, and 70,000 rear? or does that mean 10,000... 10,000... 7,000? Sorry, newcomer into this.
I think I'm missing something on the weights? You're saying that your setup is 10/10/7 but your background weights go from 200k to 1.5 mil. Thats not even a contrast?
So a 4K would be a heavier oil than 7k…. Everyone skips the very basics of diff oils and the way they are scaled. I’ll watch again but it gets confusing.
![Go Faster on Rough and Bumpy R/C Tracks [Beginner Tutorial with Ryan Lutz of LutzRC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w0prm2AEQpY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Go Faster on Rough and Bumpy R/C Tracks [Beginner Tutorial with Ryan Lutz of LutzRC]](/img/tr.png)
I haven’t raced or even driven RC in years. My last genuine racing vehicle was the AD2 Gas Truck before I quit racing in early ‘06. (I miss that one). But I still enjoy watching these videos that you put out!
Very cool, thank you!
Fascinating. I love how you explain things!
Thank you very much!
Another masterclass from Professor Drake - cheers!
:) Thank you!
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure, thank you!
Awesome these value informations explained Adam. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is all great knowledge! Thanks Adam!
My pleasure, thank you!
Easy to follow. What I needed. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Awesome explanation!
Very helpful information im just getting into rc racing and learning alot from your videos 👍🏻
Very cool, happy to help!
Great practical information.
Glad it was helpful!
amazing guide
Thank you!
So good!! I’ve mentioned that the light center can be hugely beneficial for us with less talent, maybe hearing it from the man himself will finally get then to try it lol. Great video dude! Keep ‘‘em coming🤘🏻
Thank you!
Great info. I greatly appreciate it
My pleasure!
Very good video thank you
Thank you for the info. Very interesting
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Adam that helps! I’m really good with my two wheel but I always struggle with the four-wheel this Will help
Happy to help!
Hi Adam can U tell me wht diff oil I should use on my truggy team associated electric please and shock oils to thanks Joe
Great video. 👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks you so much for the information...
My pleasure
Always informative and easy to understand, the way you explain things. Always appreciated!
Wow, 1.5Mil fluid?! I suppose you have to spoon it into the diff, huh? 😂
Thank you!
Basically. Haha
I wish I could have made it to TARCAR this last weekend I was gonna see if I could get you to sign my XXX-NT AD2, but things got in the way. You’re best thank you.
That would be cool! Thank you!
Thank you for this I’m starting at this and was not getting this part at all. Like everything it’s too mucho options and choices. Thanks for this
Glad I could help!
Great video, thanx 👌
My pleasure!
Awesome information and presentation! Next video shock tuning ?
That was helpful, thank you
My pleasure.
Thank you
Great informative video! Looks like it is getting plastered everywhere lol. Thanks for the tips
My pleasure, thank you!
Hello Sir,I just want to know if any different between any brand of Diff. Oil and the Traxxas brand? I'm a cuber then the Traxxas lube is really work at the rubiks cube. Thanks in advance in your answer.
Thanks bro!
Great video! I don’t race but like driving my car on open areas. I found that I lose steering on power and my car just wants to wheelie all the time which makes it very uncontrolable. To prevent it from wheeling and instead have the power translated on the ground should I have thick in the front, maybe 15k front, 10k in the middle and 7k at the back??
Absolutely excellent made well said❤❤❤❤❤❤ it✌️SUBSCRIBED 🙌🙃
what a good information here 👌
Glad it was helpful!
I need more turning of my monster truck on throttle out of corner .harder or softer diff fluid in frontdiff ?
Amazing!!
Thanks!!
Great info thanks buddy brapp brapp ☠️🛠👊👍
My pleasure!
What would be your thin for low grip and what is thick in your opinion?
Thanks for the info
No problem 👍
What happens if you lock the center diff
What would you recommend on a baseline for a Losi L8?
Every how many hours of operation we have to replace the diff fluid?
Great videos!! Really appreciate the way you explain things. I do have a question tho. You run real low weights so what is the point of 100k, 250k or any other crazy amount? Sounds like there would be no real reason if racing to go less than 5 or no more than maybe 15-20k. Is there a time you can think of to use much heavier weighted fluid? My buddies and I race Arrma Mojave’s and traxxxas UDRs and it’s typically a real low bite track so any help is awesome.
Well in my case I just swapped my front and rears on my felon and limit skyline.. 30k rear on both and 35k on felony front and I’m thinking 40k on the limit front. Im really high grip street and running
1717-1650 and a 4070cm-2200 on the limit. These thicker fluids is bcs unlike off road where we need the diff to slip, it’s the opposite on drag,speed run. I’m trying to keep the car in a solid straight line with no deviation and if I get a wheel that diffs out, I won’t notice it until I loose control or the tire blows out. Power being transferred from the motor to the drive shaft and to the wheels is like lightning… it will always find the easiest path with least resistance.
What is good diff oils for drag racing
Thank you for the informative video. Would you say 10-10-7 is a good starting point for the Barn, on an eBuggy?
All I can say is that, 5/5/2 or 5/5/3 is a good starting point for most cars. It really depends on the car itself too. Kyosho suggest that setup, Losi 7/10/4 , AE used to have a base 5/5/5 kit setup.
That's what I used at The Barn. Maybe start with 7K in the center to help a little with traction.
Will u recommend 200k for center on tlr typhone 6s? Thanks
I have a cheaper car, the diffs feel to easy to turn. If i fill it with greace it would be better?
I put 10 7 and 5 on the dirt track we run here in a sct410.3..
I’m going to try what I have and go 100k center to start and a little to the 10k stock fluid and hopefully land somewhere between 20-40k on a Kraton 6s v5 . It don’t wheelie and feels like fronts are getting too much but she works good .
Sounds great!
Hi, what weight oils would you recommend as a starting point for a 1/8 on road basher truck? Maverick quantum r. I don’t really want the back to kick out and drift, I’m more after balanced handling. Thanks
I don't have any experience with that model or know what they recommend as a starting point.
Bashers should almost universally use something heavy in the center. That's all I can offer you for sure. If your truck doesn't have a center diff and is just a straight drive, look up some videos on how the heavier 200k+ fluids work trying to turn the diffs by hand and decide what looks ballpark right to you.
If you don't want the back to drift tune it lighter than the front, but also don't tune the front too heavily or it won't rotate well and might even drag/push on slow-speed tight turns... You can compensate the front dragging by tuning the rear stiffer so it can help the front power over instead of the inside wheel getting power and making the front turn even WORSE.
If it's a 2wd, probably leave it stock so it's not a total 1-wheel peeler, IDK. Instead look into chassis/steering changes. Dial in some toe-in on the rear and neutral toe on the front instead of whatever's standard (usually in on the rear, out on the front). You COULD dial toe-in on both ends, but it'll make the car less responsive/sensitive to steering.
Always do your research so you have ideal tires. Tires can make or break any setup.
Hi Adam, curious what the Mugen drivers were runnings for diff fluids at world's?
20-30-5
Hey great video any chance you could make a vid explaining over/underdrive?
YES!!! PLEASE!!!!
Hi Adam question you might know, what would you recommend on a Losi Sct Nitro for Diff fluids from front to back. My other question is do you know if the shock fluids would be the same for an electric sct? I assume the weight would differ cause of the weight of the truck?
I would start with 7K front and 5K rear. As for shock oil, the same as the electric or 50cst thicker.
@@AdamDrake thanks a lot appreciate you🙏🏻
@@AdamDrake oh sorry forgot about Center diff? What weight same as front?
sorry to chime in, being complete noob. how should I choose my diff fluids to be able to do wheelies easier ? I destroyed my rear diff and when changed it I installed 20k silicone oil instead of the factory 10k. I'd love the car to do wheelies if I suddenly do full throttle. The car is Arrma Vorteks 4wd 3s and I geared down to 15T because have bigger tyres now.
Or can you suggest resources where I can read and learn about this ?
Not familiar with your car, but probably thicker center. Softer rear and stiffer front suspension would probably help too. You could always add a bunch of weight to the rear too 🙂
My kit set up is 10,000 front and rear but 200,000 center. Center will be like it’s locked. I’m guessing I’ll change this
thanks
You're welcome!
Hi Adam....question...does 1000k really feel different ? or is it too subtle?
I would expect it to depend on what your start and end points are. Going from 1k to 2k would be a bigger difference than going for 15k to 16k.
Awesome clip...but it makes my confusion what to use on our track only bigger now 😄
:)
What would you recommend for an x-maxx? I used 20 mil for the center and 100k for the front and rear. Let me know thank you
I haven't run an X Maxx myself.
thanks Adam , that was really good information , I run in Europe ( Germany )in my TLR 8ight xe elite 7-7-4 , but I want change it to 10-10-7 what you think about it ?
My pleasure! That should work well and have a nice balance if the track is medium to high grip.
When you say 7-7-4… are you meaning 700k, 700k, 400k?
7k 7k 4k
Awesome content✊New body color~way?
Thank you! No, the filter for the background made the colors look a little different.
Next video on shock fluids🙏🏻
Noted!
The thing I want to know isn't the end result of what the fluid does but how we get to that result.... If I'm understanding correctly, it's basically a viscous lsd and you're tuning the amount of slip with the fluid but I haven't found any info to confirm or deny that
It's not exactly like that, because it's using a slightly different mechanism to normal viscous diffs (there are no plate stacks in the diffs), but the effect is very similar. Instead of aligned plates moving torque between each other via the "stickiness" of a viscous fluid, the gears are rotating while (mostly) submerged in the fluid, and they need to move it around, push it out from between the gear teeth, etc.
But just like in a normal viscous diff, the torque transfer would function based on the speed difference between the axles, and thicker fluid would mean more torque transfer for the same amount of speed difference (aka slip). What I am not so sure on is how the behaviors compare with larger speed differentials (slip amounts) and when heating, whether RC diffs are as linear as normal viscous diffs in their Newtons/rpm behavior.
Stickiness of the fluid and shear forces definitely play a big part as well, no doubt about that, but from my experiments comparing heavy weight rated diff oils and damping greases, while the diff oils can be just as heavy or even a lot heavier, they lack the "sticky" properties of damping greases (RC diff oils are GARBAGE at being damping greases basically hehe). This makes me think that they're at least somewhat more focusing on the sheer heaviness of the fluids, making them kinda mechanically harder to push around, rather than maximizing stickiness.
So best diff fluid for 8th buggy... indoor clay med to high grip..... For.. front center rear??????
I would start with 10-10-7.
@@AdamDrake thanks
👍💯🇮🇪
If your local club racing on a not pro groomed dirt track put 7-15-7… its kinda loose, but it will be so easy to drive… time will be made up by not crashing
My sweet spot with my TLR is 7k/10k/4k
AD lost some weight. Good for him
Sorry i'm new into this. what is 10, 10, 7? Does that mean 100,000 front, 100,000 center, and 70,000 rear? or does that mean 10,000... 10,000... 7,000? Sorry, newcomer into this.
10,000, 10,000, 7,000
I think I'm missing something on the weights? You're saying that your setup is 10/10/7 but your background weights go from 200k to 1.5 mil. Thats not even a contrast?
The photo in the background was from a press release for our thicker fluids that are used for on-road.
Silicone ear plugs in the center, Silly Putty in the rear, 1.5M in the front. Lol.
So a 4K would be a heavier oil than 7k…. Everyone skips the very basics of diff oils and the way they are scaled. I’ll watch again but it gets confusing.
The lower the number, the lighter the fluid. 4K is lighter than 7K.
Haha flash point advertisement ;)
Too many abbreviations and acronyms to be clear with with what you are saying..