I truly appreciate all you continue to do for our RC Community. Thank you for discussing the different types of car chassis & designs, including recommendations to setup in order to improve the handling characteristics we experience. Your videos are a tremendous help in understanding directions we may want to try and enjoy RC racing more.
@@invisiblespeedrc or you could just run less anti squat and keep the forward drive out of the corner... your advice in this video...while accurate just sacrifices too much speed while powering corner to corner in short sections.
@@invisiblespeedrc I spent years driving c hub buggies, switched to PB buggy and find them extremely easy to drive and setup. These buggies are so good outta the box now, it's so fun to drive buggies now.
@@invisiblespeedrc ok, so I paid extra attention to the corner exits on my pb buggy on last night's race. I do notice that I have to quickly counter steer on exits to prevent over steering. I will try some of your suggestions on next race in a couple weeks.
Great info. My mbx8 was loose on exit. I changed my diffs to 7,4,5 and it works great. Wish this video was out last summer when I was trying to figure this out.
Man!!! The vid was awesome, the last few mins of the vid, I have been telling my fellow racers that for years!!!! Stop copying the best in the world setup and expecting it to work! Whatever the pros do, 99% of us will need more grip
Been out of the hobby for several years, but catch myself watching you vids. I think that means I'm getting ready to jump back in. AND since you put out all this content for ALL the cars. I WILL get a JQ🤙💪
I’ve been running with very similar changes, 2.5 rear bar, 9/4/4, +2 rear hex only, rear link in the most upper position, and it’s been very helpful. You are spot on, keep the videos coming.👍🏻 Mugen MBX8 WE/Eco TE are my current cars.
This was some great advise for my RC8B3.2, first time out I had a ton of on power steering, and this will hopefully calm it down. I have made a few of these changes, and now I will understand out to help the rear of the car settle down on power. I laughed about the RM comment, drive better. That's exactly what I was trying to do when over steering on power. I was adjusting the speed of acceleration out of longer turns and out of hairpins. The rear end was just uncontrollable under acceleration.
I tried a lighter rear sway bar and I got a bit of a chubby...but when I also increased the rear diff oil thickness, I got a blue vein throbber. Thanks for the video.
Very good video, I really enjoyed the breakdown of turning and being lined up after the turns. I struggle with wanting to get on the power as I am sliding around the turns without being straight for that power to propel my car. I run a Typhon 6S BLX and with the stock sway or antiroll bars, (I watched that vid too) my rear end tends to do what that one guy did and throttle around the turn, while understeering, then have the rear end swing wide, and I have to over steer. This has helped me understand the different setups that would aid in achieving the cornering issues. I run 7000 ct in front/rear diff, and 10,000 ct in the center, still trying to see what works for me. I will continue to watch and learn from your videos. I have now subscribed! Thanks again and keep up the good analyzing and understanding these issues for us and producing thorough content.
Yes I tried these thnigs out and it really made my car way easier to drive, i could still drive it without these changes and get competitive lap times, but with these changes i feel that i can push the car more comfortably
I am running the MBX8R Eco, Nitro and MBX8TR I just put 15/5/6 on my e buggy, 2.5 rear sway (2.2 front), 4 dot rear plates (highest), raised the link on the rear tower to the top … gonna take it for a spin later today. 🤝🏽 I’ll report back. Gonna try it at both The Dirt and Thunder Alley here in So Cal.
The adjustment u said to do work awesome stand up the rear shock to last hole made the car to tight on move down one hole and made the way better I change front and rear sway bar front 2.2 rear 2.6 normal is 2.3 and 2.7 setup work really good this was on a high bite track diff work really well
Thank you for these videos man! Has given me a lot of information and understanding. I am new to the 1/8th buggy racing side of the hobby so these videos really help.
Great stuff, before seeing this video I tired similar setting changes but not all, and now you have given me a little more ideas to try out. Thank you and stay safe.
I'm driving an XB8 2020 mainly on hard packed medium grip track and I can confirm that rear wider rear hexes and 1 step lighter roll bar makes the car stable and "more pushable" on power ... now I better understand why 🙃 I'm curious to try your diffs and axles height advicessoon Positive feedback again ...JQ you are hitting the nail on the head 👊
My interpretation The X-ray became much calmer on the rear, so it worked But it had no steering anymore So I had to add steering by a shorter rear uplink ... Need more testing to find a good balance
Love the vids keep them coming much need info When I had the x8nitro I ran 7,5,3, and overdrive in the front with 2.5 sway bar and -3° rear toe shocks inside hole on arm loved it
@@invisiblespeedrc Edgy, hard to drive. Grip is very inconsistent. Miss the setup by a little and you end up with a car that can either have tons of under steer or over steer. It still has the weird "hop" in the rear suspension that has always plagued the Teknos on rough tracks.
I have a EB48.4. Its a gen behind. I dont seem to have those problems. Mine drives really good. It predictible constistent has ALOT of traction and steering. I love my EB48.4. I also own a Hyper 7 TQ and an OG RC8FT that took me a very long time to set up so it wouldnt spin the rear around all the time. Id say my Tekno drives better than the other cars I own. And I own a few diff cars. Tekno cars arent bad. Why all the trash talk. They need to be set up for YOU just like any car. Keep nitro alive. And live RC.
I can tell you the 3k center diff on the mbx8 works on low grip tracks. I struggled to get rear grip on a dusty and very bumpy track where the rear wanted to step out on exit. No fix for it. 2k in the center fixed it. On smooth low grip track 3k is fine. And on med to high bite I run the usual 7-15k in the center. I try to find a way to test the high rear link.
JQ, can you do a video on driving with one hand? Steering with just your thumb. 😜 I remember when we met during one of your test sessions in Dallas you were driving that way. You also gave me some tips for my numb fingers issue. Continue the great content creation!!
Hey JQ, I tried 10 front, 3 middle, and 4 rear and it calmed my tlr Typhon down quite a bit. A lot less rear end slip on power on corner exit. I feel like I can push the car faster into corners. I hope to figure out a way to get +2rear hubs on it....The Mugen ones don't work, the Mugen pin is larger in diameter. I might try associated or tekno next
So I tried 15/3/7 today at Thunder Alley in socal. Track was ran dry and anyone who has run there before when it’s dry knows it’s super high grip. Anyways, I can say that the car has great front end pull out of the turns but lacked drive. Then for shits and gigs ran 5 in the center and left the front and rear and holy hell, way too much drive and pull and basically was a freaking handful. Running 15/3/7 was ok at best. It felt as though I had to change my driving style to accommodate this diff setup. I generally run 7/5/4 and can say, I like it better this way than 15/3/7 or 15/5/7...just my .2 cents
JQ, I last raced an mbx7r a few seasons ago and I had previously raced an eight 3.0. Your thoughts on the handling between these 2 styles of vehicles is spot on. I literally was trying to find a way to calm down the rear of the mugen damn near every race. Now that I have seen your vids on these differences and heard your thoughts on some changes that may have helped, your thoughts on the diff oil changes are on the right track. Standard oil setups were 5,7,3 and I would sometimes run 7,7,3 The mugen responded very well to diff oil changes. It is also funny that you mentioned adding holes in the rear hubs because I was trying to figure that out as well. (Never did)The wider rear hubs do help, just not a lot. By the way, I raced with you in 2015 (I think)when you where in Michigan at a track with a giant 2 level drivers stand. Track was pretty abrasive and I ended up bending my Losi chassis 5mm that day. Lol
back into RC after a 20 year break and I bought the kyosho MP10t. I didn’t k know about ball steering and I was wondering what I might be missing out on. Happy with what I got now after this video.. 👍 wonder what you would run for diff oils in the MP10t racing against a mugen? In a video I’m sure.
it is a pleasure to hear your explanations! continue like this please. Note the experience of all these years in competition and a simple and objective way of explaining! i like and learn a lot. I would like to one day see a video about Hot bodies D819 please !!! see you next time, hug from Portugal
What about the possibility of changing driving habits? I believe Mugen and a few other kits run this way because it has an advantage that we're not used to. Slide earlier into the corner like what Rally drivers do. Maybe the style of driving is too much on-road like the characteristics of C-Hub. With PBS we need to slide earlier to power over the turn like rally drivers do. Thank you so much for the info and I'll definitely try your advise to see if my driving does improve. Cheers!
xrays rear upright has an upper and lower hole for roll. As well as hole to the inside that combined with the "narrow" hole in the arm gives more "offset" that you talked about in the savoya video. would you feel this being a viable option? Just throw an mbx6 rear pivot, mbx8 arms, with some mp9 uprights on and tell everyone it was .5s a lap faster no matter what?
Pillow Hub...more video about those hub..👍👍🇲🇾🇲🇾..5:07 what in this 7 years happen to me when about 7 years ago im playing Mugen MBX6R then now already answered..Same like that happen to me..no one explained to me like what you did bro JQ..i think 7 years ago im oversteer like that because my Nitro engine very powerfull make the car oversteer..hahahhaha🤣🤣🤣...Now im just playing C hub car including your car too JQ Racing..Thanks for the answered the mysterious thing about Hub in this 7 years..i very2 satisfied..now i dont need to think it again..The End of tale of two hubs..🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍🇲🇾♥️🇫🇮
It looks like part of the over steer is the car is pushing already mid corner then when they come on the throttle they are oversteering to compensating for the under steer then it bites on the gas and the rear of the car whips. I do agree the ball design has that tendency but I think a big part of that is some under steer so the front tires are turning hard but when the driver gets in the gas the front tires find bite and it literally pulls that rear end around. Awesome video footage and the slow motion is awesome. Also curious how much of this is driving style? When you watch the difference in the driving styles there’s two very different styles. Love the videos! Thanks for all the effort and time. Agreed I think the ball cars take more talent to drive. I think the ball design is a better design but it’s harder to drive. Also agree make the car easy to drive and as you progress you can slowly make the car faster as you go. Ryan Harris is a great example of this. He makes his cars easy to drive so it’s comfortable. I’d I can make less mistakes and run a decent lap time I can beat most of the competition. Now as you get to the better top tier drivers the car will have to be fast and your gonna have to drive to win. Videos are great again. Tuning tips are awesome and you give a reason why.
Yeah RC8B3E on very loose outdoor track/sand and broken up dirt watered or dry sucks with a thin center diff, thickened the snot out of it, started behaving. Car still likes to randomly bite me every lap or so....
Tinker-er here. I know this is an older video and now the mugen 8R has been out for about a year (biggest change shorter rear pivot) but I know there are some mugen drivers out there on low grip tracks or you feel like it's a low grip track. Here's what I found: some of this video is correct, some is not. The biggest thing that planted the rear end of the 8R is low hub height, and upper rear link higher than top hole in tower. I drilled a hole about 2mm higher than highest hole. And 2mm in. That made an immediate impact on side bite middle/out on throttle performance. "0" hub plates and link points downhill to hub side. Don't believe me? Just drill a hole and try it. Check out JQ other video on roll centers and how the link wants to straighten out when pulled. You'll see what I mean
Mugen: there is a 1mm shim between suspension arm and Pivot-Ball in the front. What do you think of standard hex (NOT the +1mm), but increasing the shims to 2mm? should keep the broader track width but also the standard kingpin offset for increased steering - what do you think? Appreciate your opinion ...
If you put 3k in Maifield's center diff, the only reason he would complete 1full lap is because there was no other way to get back to the pits and pull off.
@@invisiblespeedrc I'm not Maifield but neither are you lol. I tried 5k in my center diff in very low grip conditions, I lost way too much acceleration. To me that's not the answer.
This is my comment, i used tekno 2.0 car btw. The rear hub height, i prefer to use lower hub make it more grip n more side bite. If i use higher hub, the rear will be loose. We have 5 position n most would use pos2 I agree that we the regular joes cant really use the setup from the pros unless we can drive like them...
Take a look at the soar buggy. It has a hybrid pivot ball/king pin steering. What is your take on that. What about adapting a pivot ball rear suspension. Or a hybrid of that. I thought I saw xray playing around with that idea. Taking what is using in tenth scale and trying to adapt it to 1/8.
Actually I’m just facing this problem,I did some change of toe in, yea it’s more stable to drive,especially when you drive into a dusty corner or low grip corner it works perfect.but at same times,when i get into a high grip corner,the speed in corner is much slower too….
The wheel rotates around the outside of the ball, making for a more aggressive steer. The bigger the balls, the more pronounced the angles will be. Solution: smaller balls. That should fix the whole issue. A little less caster angle would help too. Awesome topic man!
@@invisiblespeedrc The steering angle is the problem though. The changes you talk about making would make any car more stable, not specifically a pillow ball car. If you want to make a pillow ball car drive like a c-hub car, you would need to address the one difference they have....steering.
its also us mate, that got some second hand c-hub oldies like mp9. lets give it a try there.. How is it possible to get a descent setup for us? you are spot on concerning setups againt famous drivers. It is not doable.. cheerrs mate
You should probably explain that the Chub rear end you are always referring to is the Kyosho and new Sworkz like you said in the Savoya video. Mainly because the Losi, HB and Serpent all have the shallow off set rear end hub, they are all "PB rear ends" as you explain it but are Chub cars. The losi has a wide rear pivot like the mugen and ae but the HB, Serpent and Xray all have a narrow rear pivot and long arm. I think most people that dont understand this will think their HB or Serpent has a Chub rear end but its really a PB rear end as you explain it. The Serpent can be made like the Kyo rear end if so desired as well as the Xray. Also the Losi, Serpent and HB dont really drive alike from my past experience and my Xray does not drive like a mugen or AE as shown on this video. I think the Xray does not drive like the Mugen or AE because of the wider pivot of the Ae and Mugen. Everytime I drive a wide pivot rear end it does some weird transfer out of the turn weather its a Losi, Mugen or AE and gets loose. My Xray does not do that because the front and rear pivots are more inline in my opinion. Hope to see you at the races soon!
HB and Serpent aren't like the Mugen rear hub, they are like the Kyosho. 0 to negative offset like Kyosho. Kyosho basically starts at 7mm negative. You might be able to get just to the inside with the narrowest hexes, but I don't think so. The "PBS rear ends" are Mugen, AE, Xray and TLR. These videos focused on the difference between the C-hub vs PBS, so that is why I did not bring up anything that you can do on both cars as it is not relevant to this discussion. Of course you can make c-hub cars that drive differently to each other, and PB cars that drive differently to each other. However the cars on the market have specific handling traits and reasons for them. That's what I explained.
@@paulciccarello8180 TLR, note how bearing is further in that surface around hinge pin images.amain.com/cdn-cgi/image/width=950/images/large/tlr/tlr344034.jpg
I am thinking of buying the mugen mbx8r, or is kyosho mp10 better, which engine would you recommend. I have a kyosho mp777 brand-new and a used one aswell with navarossi pxl21 engine
Good video man, but I have to say... I have a mugen with balls, It drives very easy, but can be loose in the rear but is very good on landing. I have been racing my serpent SRX8 ebuggy and nitro buggy, and like the c-hub pretty well, but! It does not turn as good as my mugen? Just my 2 cents, good video bro
Great video as always. You made a comment about the tlr eight x in the savoya video. I have that buggy and find it difficult to drive. Spinning out on corners hard to keep straight on power. A setup video for that car would be fantastic. Thank you. Even some more info on that car would be helpful. I just got into nitro buggy and I could use some help getting out of last place.
Also looking forward to buying your book when it comes out. I know that will give me a greater understanding of how to tune the car to make it do what I want. Just want an easier car to drive even if I sacrifice speed.
ah haha How'd that email turn out for you?!?!? Oh that made me laugh man. I was racing in the 2000 about eight years in central California before A-main had a track. We traveled all over the place racing was such a good time. Still have all my stuff and now I have a track at home. ;) Oh and My friends and I got a personal tour of A-Main's wear house what a candy store that was!!!
@@invisiblespeedrc i'm playing this track, so is the setting the same as the movie you said? please help me, many thanks th-cam.com/video/oPJyRdx72cI/w-d-xo.html
I just put 10000-3000-5000 in my associated. I also put a 2.5 rear sway bar on and +2mm rear hubs on. Is there any reason why the box setup for this car has so much toe in on the FRONT wheels?
On high grip astro I recommend you go to much thicker diffs, specially front and centre. There is a carpet setup on mayako.com from Nemo raceway. You can check that for reference.
To raise the rear link (I drive 3.1 Ae cars), couldn't you use instead of the bent camber link rod ends, use two straight ones? Or would that screw up your droop and suspension travel?
thanks, i had been stuggeling with this as well. Could somebody explain me, why a thin center diff will give the car more off power rotation? And why does a thick rear diff will give you more rear grip going into the corner? What´s the physics or mechanical thing behind this? Just to help me understand better.
Because to turn tightly, tyres need to be able to turn at different speeds compared to each other. For example, the rear outer tyre needs to turn faster than the inner tyre in a corner, its travelling a longer distance. If the diff is thick it wont allow this and the car wont turn. Centre diff is similar. Allowing the rear tyres to turn faster than front helps to allow the car to rotate as the rear end can swing around
@@invisiblespeedrc thanks a lot for the answer. I understand how the diffluid works in the the front and rear diff and why the tyre on the inside of the corner needs to be able to turn slower than the outside tyre. But why does a thin difffluid on the center allow the rear tyres to turn faster than on the front? Does the center diff distrubute the power uneven to front and back in general? I always thought, a thicker or thinner difffluid in the center affects front and rear in the same way, transfereing equally more or less power to front and back. Now that I know what it does, i´d love to know why.
@@invisiblespeedrc Awesome. Thank you. I will try the setuptips soon. I practice on astro But Race often on dusty Clay. I spun out on the Exit of the corner often on clay and messed up my races a lot.
@JQRacingTV should anyone at this point in time still buy a Black Edition or is something else coming? Maybe do a video comparing the JQ BE with the top buggies such as the MP10, MBX8, HB and Sworkz
Tried a couple of these ideas this past weekend on outdoor wet clay. Definitely kept the rear end more stable on power.
I truly appreciate all you continue to do for our RC Community. Thank you for discussing the different types of car chassis & designs, including recommendations to setup in order to improve the handling characteristics we experience. Your videos are a tremendous help in understanding directions we may want to try and enjoy RC racing more.
Thats the idea. Thanks
@@invisiblespeedrc or you could just run less anti squat and keep the forward drive out of the corner... your advice in this video...while accurate just sacrifices too much speed while powering corner to corner in short sections.
@@thatoneguy2756 running less antisquat can help but won't cure the issue on its own.
@@invisiblespeedrc I spent years driving c hub buggies, switched to PB buggy and find them extremely easy to drive and setup. These buggies are so good outta the box now, it's so fun to drive buggies now.
@@invisiblespeedrc ok, so I paid extra attention to the corner exits on my pb buggy on last night's race. I do notice that I have to quickly counter steer on exits to prevent over steering. I will try some of your suggestions on next race in a couple weeks.
Great info. My mbx8 was loose on exit. I changed my diffs to 7,4,5 and it works great. Wish this video was out last summer when I was trying to figure this out.
Man!!! The vid was awesome, the last few mins of the vid, I have been telling my fellow racers that for years!!!! Stop copying the best in the world setup and expecting it to work! Whatever the pros do, 99% of us will need more grip
Been out of the hobby for several years, but catch myself watching you vids. I think that means I'm getting ready to jump back in. AND since you put out all this content for ALL the cars. I WILL get a JQ🤙💪
I’ve been running with very similar changes, 2.5 rear bar, 9/4/4, +2 rear hex only, rear link in the most upper position, and it’s been very helpful. You are spot on, keep the videos coming.👍🏻 Mugen MBX8 WE/Eco TE are my current cars.
This was some great advise for my RC8B3.2, first time out I had a ton of on power steering, and this will hopefully calm it down. I have made a few of these changes, and now I will understand out to help the rear of the car settle down on power. I laughed about the RM comment, drive better. That's exactly what I was trying to do when over steering on power. I was adjusting the speed of acceleration out of longer turns and out of hairpins. The rear end was just uncontrollable under acceleration.
I really appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share it. Looking forward to more, the future is bright!
Intro and outro audio higher than main video, great video as always🖖🏾
The thinner center diff absolutely works. I tried it before watching this video and you were spot on. 10k in the center was absolutely too heavy
Guido una team associated ed ho provato il tuo setup... E MI SONO TROVATO BENISSIMO!!!
This guy is a RC genius!!
I have tried your idea regarding tire contact patch for last few weeks, it worked great for me. Very useful video thank you!
You are absolutely correct if we had this in the 80/90s we would be much better now
I tried a lighter rear sway bar and I got a bit of a chubby...but when I also increased the rear diff oil thickness, I got a blue vein throbber. Thanks for the video.
Very good video, I really enjoyed the breakdown of turning and being lined up after the turns. I struggle with wanting to get on the power as I am sliding around the turns without being straight for that power to propel my car. I run a Typhon 6S BLX and with the stock sway or antiroll bars, (I watched that vid too) my rear end tends to do what that one guy did and throttle around the turn, while understeering, then have the rear end swing wide, and I have to over steer. This has helped me understand the different setups that would aid in achieving the cornering issues. I run 7000 ct in front/rear diff, and 10,000 ct in the center, still trying to see what works for me. I will continue to watch and learn from your videos. I have now subscribed! Thanks again and keep up the good analyzing and understanding these issues for us and producing thorough content.
Yes I tried these thnigs out and it really made my car way easier to drive, i could still drive it without these changes and get competitive lap times, but with these changes i feel that i can push the car more comfortably
Γειά σου φίλε, αυτές οι αλλαγές δουλεύουν και στο mbx8r ή καλύτερα μόνο λάδια στο καινούριο.
I like this guy! Very informative and thorough.
I am running the MBX8R Eco, Nitro and MBX8TR
I just put 15/5/6 on my e buggy, 2.5 rear sway (2.2 front), 4 dot rear plates (highest), raised the link on the rear tower to the top … gonna take it for a spin later today. 🤝🏽 I’ll report back.
Gonna try it at both The Dirt and Thunder Alley here in So Cal.
It would be very interesting to hear what you think about short vs long rear arms.
The adjustment u said to do work awesome stand up the rear shock to last hole made the car to tight on move down one hole and made the way better I change front and rear sway bar front 2.2 rear 2.6 normal is 2.3 and 2.7 setup work really good this was on a high bite track diff work really well
You the man JQ, thanks for this video. Ill be sure and play with the setup on my mugens
Thank you for these videos man! Has given me a lot of information and understanding. I am new to the 1/8th buggy racing side of the hobby so these videos really help.
thank you bro its very helpful for me
Thanks setup was something I didn't know a lot about you made it sense 😸🎉🎉. Thanks setup man or should I say magic ✨ man 🤠 thanks 😊
Your In Depth Explanation on Things is Amazing. Subscriber for Life. Keep up the good Work..
Good Stuff, this knowledge is needed to become a better driver. TY
thumbs up for that comedistic usage of that teeni song :D
You're a fkn master. Thanks for your tips, time and strenght to the rookies like me.
Another great video , followed you for years and this content is awesome.
ive just tried lighter diffs on my mayako and also got a bonner!
Thank you for the video Mr. JQ!
I setting up my Team Associated RC8B3.1e and I'm very curious!
Good Stuff JQ!
Awesome info. I agree, we all should focus less on other people's setups and test different things ourselves.
Great stuff, before seeing this video I tired similar setting changes but not all, and now you have given me a little more ideas to try out. Thank you and stay safe.
Great tips and info !!!
I'm driving an XB8 2020 mainly on hard packed medium grip track and I can confirm that rear wider rear hexes and 1 step lighter roll bar makes the car stable and "more pushable" on power ... now I better understand why 🙃
I'm curious to try your diffs and axles height advicessoon
Positive feedback again ...JQ you are hitting the nail on the head 👊
Did some changes - can only test next WE ... will share
My interpretation
The X-ray became much calmer on the rear, so it worked
But it had no steering anymore
So I had to add steering by a shorter rear uplink ...
Need more testing to find a good balance
Love the vids keep them coming much need info When I had the x8nitro I ran 7,5,3, and overdrive in the front with 2.5 sway bar and -3° rear toe shocks inside hole on arm loved it
I'd like to see a video on why the new Tekno drives nothing like a "normal" c-hub car, but also not like a traditional ball car.
How would you say it drives? Smooth with a lot of grip?
@@invisiblespeedrc Edgy, hard to drive. Grip is very inconsistent. Miss the setup by a little and you end up with a car that can either have tons of under steer or over steer. It still has the weird "hop" in the rear suspension that has always plagued the Teknos on rough tracks.
@@MX304 Ok my bad, I assumed that they had it figured out with the new one. That's the one you mean right, long arms, narrow pivots?
@@invisiblespeedrc Yes. It is better than the old cars, but still a long way off.
I have a EB48.4. Its a gen behind. I dont seem to have those problems. Mine drives really good. It predictible constistent has ALOT of traction and steering. I love my EB48.4. I also own a Hyper 7 TQ and an OG RC8FT that took me a very long time to set up so it wouldnt spin the rear around all the time. Id say my Tekno drives better than the other cars I own. And I own a few diff cars. Tekno cars arent bad. Why all the trash talk. They need to be set up for YOU just like any car. Keep nitro alive. And live RC.
Very Good information JQ thank you
I can tell you the 3k center diff on the mbx8 works on low grip tracks. I struggled to get rear grip on a dusty and very bumpy track where the rear wanted to step out on exit. No fix for it. 2k in the center fixed it. On smooth low grip track 3k is fine. And on med to high bite I run the usual 7-15k in the center.
I try to find a way to test the high rear link.
Got every tip noted. I run mugen and want to try these setups, but the nearest track is about 1000KMs away...
JQ, can you do a video on driving with one hand? Steering with just your thumb. 😜 I remember when we met during one of your test sessions in Dallas you were driving that way. You also gave me some tips for my numb fingers issue.
Continue the great content creation!!
Have big hands 🤣
U the man JQ
Hey JQ, I tried 10 front, 3 middle, and 4 rear and it calmed my tlr Typhon down quite a bit. A lot less rear end slip on power on corner exit. I feel like I can push the car faster into corners. I hope to figure out a way to get +2rear hubs on it....The Mugen ones don't work, the Mugen pin is larger in diameter. I might try associated or tekno next
My tlr tuned also really aggressive on corners
Your videos are so great! So much info, keep up the great work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
So I tried 15/3/7 today at Thunder Alley in socal. Track was ran dry and anyone who has run there before when it’s dry knows it’s super high grip. Anyways, I can say that the car has great front end pull out of the turns but lacked drive. Then for shits and gigs ran 5 in the center and left the front and rear and holy hell, way too much drive and pull and basically was a freaking handful. Running 15/3/7 was ok at best. It felt as though I had to change my driving style to accommodate this diff setup. I generally run 7/5/4 and can say, I like it better this way than 15/3/7 or 15/5/7...just my .2 cents
Try 10-3-4
JQ, I last raced an mbx7r a few seasons ago and I had previously raced an eight 3.0. Your thoughts on the handling between these 2 styles of vehicles is spot on. I literally was trying to find a way to calm down the rear of the mugen damn near every race. Now that I have seen your vids on these differences and heard your thoughts on some changes that may have helped, your thoughts on the diff oil changes are on the right track. Standard oil setups were 5,7,3 and I would sometimes run 7,7,3 The mugen responded very well to diff oil changes. It is also funny that you mentioned adding holes in the rear hubs because I was trying to figure that out as well. (Never did)The wider rear hubs do help, just not a lot. By the way, I raced with you in 2015 (I think)when you where in Michigan at a track with a giant 2 level drivers stand. Track was pretty abrasive and I ended up bending my Losi chassis 5mm that day. Lol
I remember that race, I ran IBeams, it was all Motocross style!
back into RC after a 20 year break and I bought the kyosho MP10t. I didn’t k know about ball steering and I was wondering what I might be missing out on. Happy with what I got now after this video.. 👍 wonder what you would run for diff oils in the MP10t racing against a mugen? In a video I’m sure.
it is a pleasure to hear your explanations! continue like this please. Note the experience of all these years in competition and a simple and objective way of explaining! i like and learn a lot. I would like to one day see a video about Hot bodies D819 please !!! see you next time, hug from Portugal
Maybe the HB designer can make one.
@@invisiblespeedrc Hb designer is not you! But ok, i understand! You cant talk about all brands.
follow the plan i follow you.
Stay cool mate
@@ruirei5962 lol maybe one day, their design is old so maybe he needs ideas for how to improve it.
Great video!! What about mugen ebuggy??
You recommend the same diff oils?
especially in the center diff?
On the mugen and AE aluminum rear hubs offer a middle hole. That's pretty much what we run on the AE all the time.
We try next race thanks for info
What about the possibility of changing driving habits? I believe Mugen and a few other kits run this way because it has an advantage that we're not used to. Slide earlier into the corner like what Rally drivers do. Maybe the style of driving is too much on-road like the characteristics of C-Hub. With PBS we need to slide earlier to power over the turn like rally drivers do. Thank you so much for the info and I'll definitely try your advise to see if my driving does improve. Cheers!
impressionanti
Great video
Good stuff.
xrays rear upright has an upper and lower hole for roll. As well as hole to the inside that combined with the "narrow" hole in the arm gives more "offset" that you talked about in the savoya video. would you feel this being a viable option? Just throw an mbx6 rear pivot, mbx8 arms, with some mp9 uprights on and tell everyone it was .5s a lap faster no matter what?
Pillow Hub...more video about those hub..👍👍🇲🇾🇲🇾..5:07 what in this 7 years happen to me when about 7 years ago im playing Mugen MBX6R then now already answered..Same like that happen to me..no one explained to me like what you did bro JQ..i think 7 years ago im oversteer like that because my Nitro engine very powerfull make the car oversteer..hahahhaha🤣🤣🤣...Now im just playing C hub car including your car too JQ Racing..Thanks for the answered the mysterious thing about Hub in this 7 years..i very2 satisfied..now i dont need to think it again..The End of tale of two hubs..🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍🇲🇾♥️🇫🇮
It looks like part of the over steer is the car is pushing already mid corner then when they come on the throttle they are oversteering to compensating for the under steer then it bites on the gas and the rear of the car whips. I do agree the ball design has that tendency but I think a big part of that is some under steer so the front tires are turning hard but when the driver gets in the gas the front tires find bite and it literally pulls that rear end around. Awesome video footage and the slow motion is awesome. Also curious how much of this is driving style? When you watch the difference in the driving styles there’s two very different styles. Love the videos! Thanks for all the effort and time. Agreed I think the ball cars take more talent to drive. I think the ball design is a better design but it’s harder to drive. Also agree make the car easy to drive and as you progress you can slowly make the car faster as you go. Ryan Harris is a great example of this. He makes his cars easy to drive so it’s comfortable. I’d I can make less mistakes and run a decent lap time I can beat most of the competition. Now as you get to the better top tier drivers the car will have to be fast and your gonna have to drive to win. Videos are great again. Tuning tips are awesome and you give a reason why.
And what about my sworkz rear end ? It is Like an Kyosho rear end?
Yeah RC8B3E on very loose outdoor track/sand and broken up dirt watered or dry sucks with a thin center diff, thickened the snot out of it, started behaving. Car still likes to randomly bite me every lap or so....
Why are they using those kinda controllers with the sticks? Is that driver preference?
Tinker-er here. I know this is an older video and now the mugen 8R has been out for about a year (biggest change shorter rear pivot) but I know there are some mugen drivers out there on low grip tracks or you feel like it's a low grip track. Here's what I found: some of this video is correct, some is not. The biggest thing that planted the rear end of the 8R is low hub height, and upper rear link higher than top hole in tower. I drilled a hole about 2mm higher than highest hole. And 2mm in. That made an immediate impact on side bite middle/out on throttle performance. "0" hub plates and link points downhill to hub side. Don't believe me? Just drill a hole and try it. Check out JQ other video on roll centers and how the link wants to straighten out when pulled. You'll see what I mean
Do think this work good on outdoor tracks work on indoor high bite
Mugen: there is a 1mm shim between suspension arm and Pivot-Ball in the front. What do you think of standard hex (NOT the +1mm), but increasing the shims to 2mm? should keep the broader track width but also the standard kingpin offset for increased steering - what do you think? Appreciate your opinion ...
Yes for most steering and stability, you would want to run the narrowest hex and then shim it out to max width. I would give that a try.
If you put 3k in Maifield's center diff, the only reason he would complete 1full lap is because there was no other way to get back to the pits and pull off.
None of you that are looking for advice are Maifield. Did you watch the video?
@@invisiblespeedrc I'm not Maifield but neither are you lol. I tried 5k in my center diff in very low grip conditions, I lost way too much acceleration. To me that's not the answer.
This is my comment, i used tekno 2.0 car btw.
The rear hub height, i prefer to use lower hub make it more grip n more side bite. If i use higher hub, the rear will be loose. We have 5 position n most would use pos2
I agree that we the regular joes cant really use the setup from the pros unless we can drive like them...
The tekno rear hub is not like the ones found on Xray, Mugen and AE, so it works differently, in the direction of the kyosho style.
@@invisiblespeedrc owh yea u are right. Also i check tekno scrub radius is near to zero both front and back
Take a look at the soar buggy. It has a hybrid pivot ball/king pin steering. What is your take on that.
What about adapting a pivot ball rear suspension. Or a hybrid of that. I thought I saw xray playing around with that idea. Taking what is using in tenth scale and trying to adapt it to 1/8.
It's not a hybrid, it's still just a pivot ball. The function is the same.
We need a deep analysis on the buggys you dislike : TLR and TEKNO
Ask them. I don’t dislike them. It’s the people behind them,
@@invisiblespeedrc Please elaborate. Maybe add some x,y points on the Hater Index curve to illustrate.
@@invisiblespeedrc is it what they did to Lutz? I've been enjoying these videos. Thanks for making them.
Actually I’m just facing this problem,I did some change of toe in, yea it’s more stable to drive,especially when you drive into a dusty corner or low grip corner it works perfect.but at same times,when i get into a high grip corner,the speed in corner is much slower too….
Awesome video 👍 and great advice
Thanks for sharing 👍
The wheel rotates around the outside of the ball, making for a more aggressive steer. The bigger the balls, the more pronounced the angles will be. Solution: smaller balls. That should fix the whole issue. A little less caster angle would help too. Awesome topic man!
You cant make smaller balls, you wont get the required steering angle. Less caster doesnt solve the issue
@@invisiblespeedrc The steering angle is the problem though. The changes you talk about making would make any car more stable, not specifically a pillow ball car. If you want to make a pillow ball car drive like a c-hub car, you would need to address the one difference they have....steering.
@@bobbydirtamiyer2151 no that’s not right. Pillow ball and chub have different characteristics and require different setups
@@invisiblespeedrc Looks like we might have to agree to disagree on this one. Great topic of discussion though and still like your video! 👍
its also us mate, that got some second hand c-hub oldies like mp9. lets give it a try there.. How is it possible to get a descent setup for us? you are spot on concerning setups againt famous drivers. It is not doable..
cheerrs mate
SOMEONE PLEASE TIMESTAMP THE TIME WHERE I POINT UP AND REFERENCE ANOTHER VIDEO! Thanks
5:05
Thanks 🤣
@@invisiblespeedrc thanks for the opportunity 😂😂 loving all the content 👌👌
You should probably explain that the Chub rear end you are always referring to is the Kyosho and new Sworkz like you said in the Savoya video. Mainly because the Losi, HB and Serpent all have the shallow off set rear end hub, they are all "PB rear ends" as you explain it but are Chub cars. The losi has a wide rear pivot like the mugen and ae but the HB, Serpent and Xray all have a narrow rear pivot and long arm. I think most people that dont understand this will think their HB or Serpent has a Chub rear end but its really a PB rear end as you explain it. The Serpent can be made like the Kyo rear end if so desired as well as the Xray. Also the Losi, Serpent and HB dont really drive alike from my past experience and my Xray does not drive like a mugen or AE as shown on this video. I think the Xray does not drive like the Mugen or AE because of the wider pivot of the Ae and Mugen. Everytime I drive a wide pivot rear end it does some weird transfer out of the turn weather its a Losi, Mugen or AE and gets loose. My Xray does not do that because the front and rear pivots are more inline in my opinion. Hope to see you at the races soon!
Losi is the only one that is different. And I do mention it in the videos.
@@invisiblespeedrc the HB, losi and serpent all have the same rear hub, no?
HB and Serpent aren't like the Mugen rear hub, they are like the Kyosho. 0 to negative offset like Kyosho. Kyosho basically starts at 7mm negative. You might be able to get just to the inside with the narrowest hexes, but I don't think so. The "PBS rear ends" are Mugen, AE, Xray and TLR. These videos focused on the difference between the C-hub vs PBS, so that is why I did not bring up anything that you can do on both cars as it is not relevant to this discussion. Of course you can make c-hub cars that drive differently to each other, and PB cars that drive differently to each other. However the cars on the market have specific handling traits and reasons for them. That's what I explained.
@@paulciccarello8180 no they don't. HB and Serpent do (or did when I checked). TLR is like Mugen.
@@paulciccarello8180 TLR, note how bearing is further in that surface around hinge pin images.amain.com/cdn-cgi/image/width=950/images/large/tlr/tlr344034.jpg
I am getting a lot of over steer on power in my mugen mct2 tried everything. any input will be appreciated
YEEEEEEHHHHAAAAAA Finally
Great stuff. Lol Business model
I am thinking of buying the mugen mbx8r, or is kyosho mp10 better, which engine would you recommend. I have a kyosho mp777 brand-new and a used one aswell with navarossi pxl21 engine
Good video man, but I have to say... I have a mugen with balls, It drives very easy, but can be loose in the rear but is very good on landing. I have been racing my serpent SRX8 ebuggy and nitro buggy, and like the c-hub pretty well, but! It does not turn as good as my mugen? Just my 2 cents, good video bro
When you talk about pivot ball I notice you group certain brands together except sworkz. Can you explain what makes sworkz different?
Thanks
Explained here th-cam.com/video/OYWvWS6V0Es/w-d-xo.html
Make your magic!
This is very interesting as always. That's why I sold my Sworzk and HB to buy a Black Edition to support the man behind this work.
WAWAWEEEWAAAAAHH!
Great video as always. You made a comment about the tlr eight x in the savoya video. I have that buggy and find it difficult to drive. Spinning out on corners hard to keep straight on power. A setup video for that car would be fantastic. Thank you. Even some more info on that car would be helpful. I just got into nitro buggy and I could use some help getting out of last place.
Also looking forward to buying your book when it comes out. I know that will give me a greater understanding of how to tune the car to make it do what I want. Just want an easier car to drive even if I sacrifice speed.
ah haha How'd that email turn out for you?!?!? Oh that made me laugh man. I was racing in the 2000 about eight years in central California before A-main had a track. We traveled all over the place racing was such a good time. Still have all my stuff and now I have a track at home. ;) Oh and My friends and I got a personal tour of A-Main's wear house what a candy store that was!!!
please help me, I'm using Xray XB8, so how do you use differential oil? thank so much!
I explain it in the video
@@invisiblespeedrc i'm playing this track, so is the setting the same as the movie you said? please help me, many thanks
th-cam.com/video/oPJyRdx72cI/w-d-xo.html
You are 1,000,000% correct about the Mugen car ..I always have great entry..feels great...then...Oh shit what's happening!!!
Get a Kyosho.
you talked me out of buying an TEAM ASSOCIATED, I am buying a Kyosho.....now I feel shirty about this choice
I just put 10000-3000-5000 in my associated. I also put a 2.5 rear sway bar on and +2mm rear hubs on. Is there any reason why the box setup for this car has so much toe in on the FRONT wheels?
I'm an associated user too, I'm curious how it goes. Is the setup any good?
@@sudhista I’ve found 10k-10k-7k has been my favorite
Good video! You would like to see my homemade 49cc RC car!
Sure
Hey JQ.....would this diff set up suit my 8th Nitroon high grip Astro ?
On high grip astro I recommend you go to much thicker diffs, specially front and centre. There is a carpet setup on mayako.com from Nemo raceway. You can check that for reference.
To raise the rear link (I drive 3.1 Ae cars), couldn't you use instead of the bent camber link rod ends, use two straight ones? Or would that screw up your droop and suspension travel?
That changes nothing except clearance for the wheel. It doesn't change the geometry.
How many degrees of rear camber?
Adjust on track to find the best
I dont know if its my driving style is or my set up but i dont have this🤔
Top
Do you work much on the 10th scale scene?
@14:16 what kind of controller is that ,I can use a controller like that instead of a wheel controller???
Stick controller, yes
@@invisiblespeedrc damn ,I thought the other one was a requirement lol ,oh I'm going pro now 😂
thanks, i had been stuggeling with this as well. Could somebody explain me, why a thin center diff will give the car more off power rotation? And why does a thick rear diff will give you more rear grip going into the corner? What´s the physics or mechanical thing behind this? Just to help me understand better.
Because to turn tightly, tyres need to be able to turn at different speeds compared to each other. For example, the rear outer tyre needs to turn faster than the inner tyre in a corner, its travelling a longer distance. If the diff is thick it wont allow this and the car wont turn. Centre diff is similar. Allowing the rear tyres to turn faster than front helps to allow the car to rotate as the rear end can swing around
@@invisiblespeedrc thanks a lot for the answer. I understand how the diffluid works in the the front and rear diff and why the tyre on the inside of the corner needs to be able to turn slower than the outside tyre. But why does a thin difffluid on the center allow the rear tyres to turn faster than on the front? Does the center diff distrubute the power uneven to front and back in general? I always thought, a thicker or thinner difffluid in the center affects front and rear in the same way, transfereing equally more or less power to front and back. Now that I know what it does, i´d love to know why.
@@littleshovelperkins Think of th efront end as inside tyre, rear end as outside tyre.
@@invisiblespeedrc Awesome. Thank you. I will try the setuptips soon. I practice on astro But Race often on dusty Clay. I spun out on the Exit of the corner often on clay and messed up my races a lot.
@JQRacingTV should anyone at this point in time still buy a Black Edition or is something else coming? Maybe do a video comparing the JQ BE with the top buggies such as the MP10, MBX8, HB and Sworkz