This is exactly what I was looking for. I needed to figure out how to actually mount the door to the frame. Like you, I'm doing this alone. But clamping that piece of wood the way you did will make it a piece of cake. Thanks.
This is exactly why I like taking the time to post items like this. Other folks have helped me so I enjoy passing on how I do things. I am glad this helped. Keep making saw dust
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I'll be on it tomorrow morning. And, I have a bank of four doors similar to what you had. Just clamping that piece of wood at the bottom and I'm sure to get a perfect fit. Made my day.
Awesome video, Roger! I appreciate your ‘no nonsense’, to the point narrative style. So many videographers over bake the dialogue and frustrate the viewer who is trying to apply the knowledge and wisdom to their own projects. Your script is clear, concise and easy to follow without leading away somewhere else. I’m embarking on building new kitchen cabinets with face mounted shaker style doors for our home this summer, so I’m gather resources and know how at the moment. I‘ve bookmarked your tools, jigs, and Berta hinges on amazon, and after watching your hinge mounting and door install I am feeling better prepared for the project. Thanks!
I bought a pair of Blum soft close hinges. I purchased the 105-degree hinges. They work fine. Those two hinges were $6.50 each. I just looked up the Berta hinges and found the same ones that I got from Blum and they're soooo much less expensive.
Thanks for the great video. I just built my first shaker style doors and now at the hinge part. I have a face frame cabinet. Am using a small door to practice.
So just use the holes on the jig that spaces and squares the doors for you and clamp the jig to the door so it doesn't move not the door to the table it will make it much easier.
I've always used Blum hinges, but will have to give the Berta a look. They appear to be non-clip type like the Blum Blumotion soft-close, but allow easy three-way adjustment without having to loosen the mount screw like the Blum. I don't care for the removable clip type hinges, as they add too much width and get in the way many times when you want to add shelves, trays, pull-outs. I only use removable clip hinges in rare cases like corner cabinets with lazy susan bi-folds. Tip... if you do many doors, I think the Rockler JIG IT Deluxe Concealed Hinge Drilling System is a much better than the Kreg. It is made of mostly metal, permits you to setup for two or more holes per door with its rail system and has integrated clamps. I added a third drilling guide so I can easily do three hinges per door and ensure exact placement between multiple doors. Worth every penny it costs... ~$200 for the three clamp system I have.
Your Video was so good! It was very helpful to me as I am building a cabinet that is similar to the one in your video and was looking for some direction. Thank you very much for doing what you're doing. Its greatly appreciated.
Its been a while since I did this video but I believe I used the jig for the screw holes. Without the level they can still get out of whack. The level makes sure they are all lined up with each other
I ordered the 1/2” hinges from your link. I believe the instructions say to use a 1/16” self centering drill bit for the screws. The self centering bit set you suggest does not sure contain this size of bit.
Thanks for getting back to me. I just spent a little time to figure out exactly what I need. It turns out that my cabinets are older and have the 3/8" lip. Apparently I need the concealed cup hinge for a lipped 3/8" cabinet door. Those seem to be fairly expensive. One place wants $47 a pair. I found a better deal at Hardware hut and they want $11.46 per hinge. For my project that I need 80 hinges. That's $916.80 for all of them. I would like to find them for less somewhere. Any ideas?
Hello from Jackson Tn. 1st gotta say thats a beautiful cabinet you built! Have a question... I'm installing similar hinges a customer already purchased from "The Home Store" here. They're 'Hardware Resources 3390-R' (1/2 overlay compact cabinet hinge without dowels) they have 4 prongs on the cabinet side I assume to go around the frame? I've never used any like this & searching to find anything similar before i do any modifications to install them. They look very close to your hinges i couldnt tell if they had the 'prongs' i mentioned that these have? Due to the design of his existing cabinets the 'prongs' are a real pain in my... Lol why I'm tryin to find their exact purpose before i have him return them or do any modifications to the existing cabinets. Thank you for your time & great video!
Oh ,an the bane of customer purchased materials! I have so been there. I am away from my shop for the next couple of days but I believe I know the prongs you are referring to. They wrap around the face frame to keep them from twisting I believe. I need to look at the ones I use now because honestly I can remember if they have the prongs or not. I return tomorrow evening and look at mine. Is there a special reason the customer provided them?
Welcome to Nashville -- Where did you move from? So Mimms is great with good choices. If you want Cedar, head to Grant Cedar mill about 45 minutes east of Mt Juliet where I am. My go to is Sparta Woodworks about 1 1/2 hour east of Mt Juliet but worth the savings in cost. 4/4 Hard Maple for 2.75 BF If you look at my website all the projects the past 3 years are built with Sparta wood.-- Fox Hardwood is about 1 1/2 east of Nashville and reasonable in prices as well. Feel free to email me at baynecustomwoodworking@gmail.com
For full-overlay doors on a cabinet with a face frame, should the reveal be the same on all four edges, especially the same on the top and bottom? Or, as I have seen in some examples, should the door be centered left and right, but have 0" (zero inches) reveal on the bottom edge? I am adjusting the doors on a cabinet over a microwave and I have some cabinets that are stacked, two and three high. I'm also considering a light rail. Thx,
I bought some Ravinte face frame soft close hinges and am pleased with the adjustability except the adjustment that moves the door in out. I have about 1/8- 3/16 gap on the hinge side that I cannot close. I’ve never had this problem with the Euro hinges. Is this your experience with the Berta hinges?
The self-centering bits linked are no longer available. What size specifically did you use for this Berta hinge? The instructions say to drill "1/16 (1.5mm) pilot hole". What standard-size self-centering bit do you recommend?
Sorry the bits are not available any longer. I appreciate you letting me know. I have updated the link to another set that will work as well. BOSCH CC2430 3-Piece Clic-Change 1/4 In. Self-Centering Drill Bit Assorted Set amzn.to/48X5HWV
If you are referring to the clip that attaches to the face frame, then yes. If I have frameless doors them I use a different style that attaches to the inside of the cabinet.
You will have an 1/8" to 1/4" gap depending on how you adjust them. I have never had an issue adjusting these hinges. Even on my cabinets in my house I have that type of gap.
Andy - These are the Clutch Style 6 in. Capacity Bar Clamp with Wood Handle and I get mine either from amazon - amzn.to/3T4tSLN or from Home Depot - www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-Clutch-Style-6-in-Capacity-Bar-Clamp-with-Wood-Handle-and-2-1-2-in-Throat-Depth-GSCC2-506/204986132
Those hinges suck.. I just bought a bunch of them and they will not adjust the rear gap tight enough... when closed the door to face frame gap will not go less than 3/16in to almost 1/4in. either I got bad hinges, or they just are junk.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
This is exactly what I was looking for. I needed to figure out how to actually mount the door to the frame. Like you, I'm doing this alone. But clamping that piece of wood the way you did will make it a piece of cake. Thanks.
This is exactly why I like taking the time to post items like this. Other folks have helped me so I enjoy passing on how I do things. I am glad this helped. Keep making saw dust
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I'll be on it tomorrow morning. And, I have a bank of four doors similar to what you had. Just clamping that piece of wood at the bottom and I'm sure to get a perfect fit. Made my day.
Awesome video, Roger! I appreciate your ‘no nonsense’, to the point narrative style. So many videographers over bake the dialogue and frustrate the viewer who is trying to apply the knowledge and wisdom to their own projects. Your script is clear, concise and easy to follow without leading away somewhere else. I’m embarking on building new kitchen cabinets with face mounted shaker style doors for our home this summer, so I’m gather resources and know how at the moment. I‘ve bookmarked your tools, jigs, and Berta hinges on amazon, and after watching your hinge mounting and door install I am feeling better prepared for the project. Thanks!
Chris - Thank you, I appreciate your comments. Enjoy the process and let me know how the job comes out. Keep moving forward.
It was like a lightbulb turned on when you lined those hinges up with the level. Always nice to learn new tricks on a Sunday morning!
LOL, I am glad it helped
The level trick comes from the Berta video. I probably would have missed it if you didn’t show it. Thanks!
Perfect explanation and example of how to install these. I couldn't visualize how these hinges mounted to the frame. Thanks!
Thank you. I am glad it helped
I bought a pair of Blum soft close hinges. I purchased the 105-degree hinges. They work fine. Those two hinges were $6.50 each. I just looked up the Berta hinges and found the same ones that I got from Blum and they're soooo much less expensive.
I like Blum but these from Berta have always worked well for me.
Thanks for the great video. I just built my first shaker style doors and now at the hinge part. I have a face frame cabinet. Am using a small door to practice.
You are very welcome. Yep I practice on a dummy door each time.
the trick for lining them all up with a level or flat board is a major one folks
So just use the holes on the jig that spaces and squares the doors for you and clamp the jig to the door so it doesn't move not the door to the table it will make it much easier.
Im recycling that trick using the level to square the hinges to one another. Thanks brother.
@@brandonfrumolt3470 Glad the help
How I got along all of these years installing hinges and brackets without a set of self-centering pilot bits…smh. Essential set of kit.
I've always used Blum hinges, but will have to give the Berta a look. They appear to be non-clip type like the Blum Blumotion soft-close, but allow easy three-way adjustment without having to loosen the mount screw like the Blum.
I don't care for the removable clip type hinges, as they add too much width and get in the way many times when you want to add shelves, trays, pull-outs. I only use removable clip hinges in rare cases like corner cabinets with lazy susan bi-folds.
Tip... if you do many doors, I think the Rockler JIG IT Deluxe Concealed Hinge Drilling System is a much better than the Kreg. It is made of mostly metal, permits you to setup for two or more holes per door with its rail system and has integrated clamps. I added a third drilling guide so I can easily do three hinges per door and ensure exact placement between multiple doors. Worth every penny it costs... ~$200 for the three clamp system I have.
@csimet I do need to try Blum but these are easy to install and adjust. And the price is right
Your Video was so good! It was very helpful to me as I am building a cabinet that is similar to the one in your video and was looking for some direction. Thank you very much for doing what you're doing. Its greatly appreciated.
Thank you. I am glad it was helpful
Thanks, man! Exactly what I needed to see all the way through. Excellent content and presentation.
I am happy it helped and thank you
Great help! I think if you use the jig for the plate holes. I think they will be square and you won’t need to mess with the level.
Its been a while since I did this video but I believe I used the jig for the screw holes. Without the level they can still get out of whack. The level makes sure they are all lined up with each other
CHIMING IN from Giles County TN.... glad I found ya on yt
Me too
Just came across this video and enjoyed it, so I subscribed so I could see more of what you do
Thank you
If you use the holes on the jig for the screws it squares the hinges for you. The centering drill bit and level are not necessary and take extra time.
I ordered the 1/2” hinges from your link. I believe the instructions say to use a 1/16” self centering drill bit for the screws. The self centering bit set you suggest does not sure contain this size of bit.
I just use the smallest one in the set
Very clear and concise, thank you for a great presentation.
Thank you for the kind words
We’ll done, thank you for sharing
Thank you for watching
Thank you for the info, It was very helpful. Ray
You are very welcome. I am glad you found it helpful
Thanks for getting back to me. I just spent a little time to figure out exactly what I need. It turns out that my cabinets are older and have the 3/8" lip. Apparently I need the concealed cup hinge for a lipped 3/8" cabinet door. Those seem to be fairly expensive. One place wants $47 a pair. I found a better deal at Hardware hut and they want $11.46 per hinge. For my project that I need 80 hinges. That's $916.80 for all of them. I would like to find them for less somewhere. Any ideas?
Have you tried brusso.com/
For the Kreg jig, is the bit sized for the hinge? The bit comes with the jig?
Yes I use the bit that comes with the jig. Seems to be a standard size. I have used it with multiple brand hinges and it works as expected
Hello from Jackson Tn. 1st gotta say thats a beautiful cabinet you built! Have a question... I'm installing similar hinges a customer already purchased from "The Home Store" here. They're 'Hardware Resources 3390-R' (1/2 overlay compact cabinet hinge without dowels) they have 4 prongs on the cabinet side I assume to go around the frame? I've never used any like this & searching to find anything similar before i do any modifications to install them. They look very close to your hinges i couldnt tell if they had the 'prongs' i mentioned that these have? Due to the design of his existing cabinets the 'prongs' are a real pain in my... Lol why I'm tryin to find their exact purpose before i have him return them or do any modifications to the existing cabinets. Thank you for your time & great video!
Oh ,an the bane of customer purchased materials! I have so been there. I am away from my shop for the next couple of days but I believe I know the prongs you are referring to. They wrap around the face frame to keep them from twisting I believe. I need to look at the ones I use now because honestly I can remember if they have the prongs or not. I return tomorrow evening and look at mine. Is there a special reason the customer provided them?
Great video! Keep them coming!
Thank you
Thank you
Hey new to Nashville and woodworking? Where do you buy your lumber? I went to mimms and it was great, looking for other great places too!
Welcome to Nashville -- Where did you move from? So Mimms is great with good choices. If you want Cedar, head to Grant Cedar mill about 45 minutes east of Mt Juliet where I am. My go to is Sparta Woodworks about 1 1/2 hour east of Mt Juliet but worth the savings in cost. 4/4 Hard Maple for 2.75 BF If you look at my website all the projects the past 3 years are built with Sparta wood.-- Fox Hardwood is about 1 1/2 east of Nashville and reasonable in prices as well. Feel free to email me at baynecustomwoodworking@gmail.com
For full-overlay doors on a cabinet with a face frame, should the reveal be the same on all four edges, especially the same on the top and bottom? Or, as I have seen in some examples, should the door be centered left and right, but have 0" (zero inches) reveal on the bottom edge?
I am adjusting the doors on a cabinet over a microwave and I have some cabinets that are stacked, two and three high.
I'm also considering a light rail. Thx,
For my full overlay I have the same reveal on all 4 sides.
I bought some Ravinte face frame soft close hinges and am pleased with the adjustability except the adjustment that moves the door in out. I have about 1/8- 3/16 gap on the hinge side that I cannot close. I’ve never had this problem with the Euro hinges.
Is this your experience with the Berta hinges?
I really don't have an issue with the Berta's. I can tell you there is an 1/8" gap on the face frame hinges in my kitchen.
The self-centering bits linked are no longer available. What size specifically did you use for this Berta hinge? The instructions say to drill "1/16 (1.5mm) pilot hole". What standard-size self-centering bit do you recommend?
Sorry the bits are not available any longer. I appreciate you letting me know. I have updated the link to another set that will work as well.
BOSCH CC2430 3-Piece Clic-Change 1/4 In. Self-Centering Drill Bit Assorted Set
amzn.to/48X5HWV
Hi Do you recommend the compact clip on for easier instalation?
If you are referring to the clip that attaches to the face frame, then yes. If I have frameless doors them I use a different style that attaches to the inside of the cabinet.
I'm using face frame hinge in normal cabinet whose side panel is 36mm will it work out?
I believe that is almost an 1 1/2" thick. If so then I do not believe the hingers would work.
@BayneCustomWoodworking thanks for the reply
How far out does the door sit from the frame with those hinges? I have read comments from people saying the door sits about 1/4” away or 1/4” gap.
You will have an 1/8" to 1/4" gap depending on how you adjust them. I have never had an issue adjusting these hinges. Even on my cabinets in my house I have that type of gap.
I discovered that the frames on my cabinets are 3/4" thick. Do you know if there is a 105 degree hinge that will work on that frame?
The frames on all my cabinets are 3/4 and the Berta work great.
Can you post a link to the bessy clamps you were using?
Andy - These are the Clutch Style 6 in. Capacity Bar Clamp with Wood Handle and I get mine either from amazon - amzn.to/3T4tSLN or from Home Depot - www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-Clutch-Style-6-in-Capacity-Bar-Clamp-with-Wood-Handle-and-2-1-2-in-Throat-Depth-GSCC2-506/204986132
@@BayneCustomWoodworking ty!!
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Thank you again, I just ordered 2 from Amazon, adding them to my collection. :)
@@gamerscircle you are very welcome. Glad I could help
The hinges in your link do not appear to be the same ones that you used in the video can you clarify?
The link points you to the same hinges I used. 1/2” soft close hinges for face frames
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Sorry I comment on the wrong video.
How much does the hinge side of the door sit off of the face?
usually about an 1/8 of an inch but you can adjust that.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Hey! Thanks for the speedy answer!!!
Never mentioned the back set
That is set at the tool and the hinges I use are all pretty much standard to the default set on the kreg jig
It depends on the overlap you want. Can be as little as 3mm or as much as 7+mm.
Those hinges suck.. I just bought a bunch of them and they will not adjust the rear gap tight enough... when closed the door to face frame gap will not go less than 3/16in to almost 1/4in. either I got bad hinges, or they just are junk.
I am sorry you are having issues with the hinges.
Practical
Thank you