The little brad nail trick was perfect. I am making a face frame that is 70" x 30"... its my first time making a face frame and i am worried about it lining up right lol
I saw it at Make Something a few mins ago and it was not explained. Now it makes perfect sense and I’ll definitely use that. If I can figure out what that snipping tool is.
Instructional video PERFECTION. I was super nervous about building face frames today but--thanks to you--I know I'll be able to do this alone. Thank you so much
This video realy motivates and encourage beeginers and enthusiastics like me to dare to doing things that I considerated allmost imposible,thanx and blessings from Mexico
Finally. All the answers I've been surfing for. You've included SO many tips and tricks in just a few minutes of video. Several 'ah ha' moments for me. Since I'm staining and don't want nail holes I'll glue and pocket hole screw the top and bottom of the face frame to the carcass where they won't be seen and glue and clamp the sides. Thank you! Subscribed.
Thank you for this. This was like fourteen questions all answered. And I don’t have to search anymore! When I’m done with this monstrosity that I’m building, I’m going to watch all of your videos!
New Subscriber!!! I just picked up a Kreg pocket jig 320, a hinge jig, and a shelf peg hole jig, along with some clamps tonight!!! The “new” 320 jig has size markings on the drill bit, with a window to line up the different sizes on the collar. It also has moveable bottom tabs that are size marked for a very user friendly setup. I’m refacing my kitchen cabinets, and building some new new ones. I’m gonna be using some of your excellent tips for making new shaker style doors. Can’t wait to start tomorrow!!!
I wish I’d seen that “cut the brad nail off to help align the face” trick about 4 days ago! Trying my first cabinet build and the face frame was real tricky and messy as you outlined because it skated around on that glue like crazy. I’ll try that next time as it looked like a good trick.
Thank you for your video! We have a small kitchen and you have given me the confidence to tackle making custom cabinets for it. Once the cabinets are built, I am not sure about the installation of them, and how to attach base trim to make them look professionally finished. Any suggestions you could provide would be great! Thanks and keep the awesome videos coming!
Hey Terri! Unfortunately, I don't have any videos on installation yet, so I would just do a search here on YT and see what you can learn. Then, if you have questions you can hit me up here, or email me. Thanks for watching!
Great video. What's your tip for keeping your face frame lumber straight after ripping the pine? I'm always concerned the wood will warp/bend even a little, which might open up your joints. Any tips? (this could apply to all projects using lumber). What if I dont have a jointer? Maybe I dont need to worry about it warping/bending once its glued? Thanks!
I was taught in cabinet making school, to always use cauls when gluing face frames. This will insure that there will be even pressure along the edge eliminating any gaps, especially on finished ends. Forget about using pocket holes for attaching face frames, this could lead to problems. Also, I would like to point out that using cauls will eliminate the need to brad nail the s*** out of the face frame, like I have seen in many videos. You really only need a couple of nails, (I place then near the top), to hold the frame in place. If you like the idea of drive and clip the nail head off, I'm ok will that.
Thanks for this great video. If you are making a face frame for a cabinet that will be beside another cabinet (that is, attached to it) should the face frame be flush to the cabinet sides so there is no overhang?
When it comes to installing cabinet door handles (either knobs or pulls), they are always placed on the opposite side from the door hinges. You'll specifically want to place them anywhere between 1'' and 4'' from the top or bottom edge of the door.
When building cabinet face frames (that will have a countertop), wouldn’t the maker elect to have the rails run the full width of the cabinet and rest on top of the stiles? In this way, the rails transfer load from the countertop/surface to the stiles and prevent sagging.
Will an mdf hanging cabinet using pocket holes and glue going to fall apart when I start to fill it up? Sides top and bottom are 16mm thick. Back is 19mm. Approx size of circus 3ft wide, 1 ft deep, 2ft tall. There will also be a bottom panel and side panel and 2 doors. My question is this too much weight for mdf to handle? I love your chanel. Keep up the great work
I tried this in the past with a solid metal jig, which I was hoping was going to last longer & be more durable; however, after doing just a single set of facings on a handful of cabinets I noticed things not lining up quite right. I looked down the metal hole in the jig and saw that the side of the drill bit had chewed away at the inner top of the guide hole because as the bit was starting to drill into the wood, the wood pressed the side of the bit up against the side of the guide hole, cutting into it. Have you ever seen this. Do you think the metal in my jig hole was prob just not as good quality as I thought? Or maybe because I was using a standard drill bit rather than one that had the smaller bit extension sticking out further from the tip? I noticed your bit had that.
Hi! I have a question! When you use faceframes, how do you put the slides??? Do you put some kind of suplement between the slides and the side panel? Is there any other way? Thanks!
I have a aquarium stand that I am building out of two-by-fours trying to make it look like it was part of the house the front half will have two doors on the bottom frame that swings out doors on the side of the aquarium that swings out and two doors above the aquarium that will go up towards the ceiling on the side of my case work I will have two doors that will swing open my question is what's the best way to mount the framework to the two-by-fours and what type of hinges would I need to hold the upper doors that swing towards the ceiling upright and the doors do not come down on my head when working around the aquarium also on the side of my stand I was thinking about the bottom door having glass so I can see my control board is this something that can be done if all the other doors will be flat panel or do you think that would look out of place
@@TrainingHandsAcademy is that like a hard wood ? Can I get it at home depot? Also if I'm gonna laminate or formaica can i do that at the end? Once the cabinet is all done?
The "play" in tapes does not make them less accurate, it accounts for the size of the tab. Push the tab against something and it subtracts the width, pull on it and it adds it.... better than cutting things 1" short on accident :D
Thank you so much for your instructional videos. I find it very helpful! Only if you could try and speak a little slower, for people like me, because english is my second language. Thank you and God bless you...
I like to make one big face frame just like the one in the video (obviously yours would be much bigger), then insert the middle stiles where needed. Does that make sense?
When measuring point to point on a cabinet like that, there are usually fractions involved. I sometimes find it difficult to keep track of both the ones digit and the numerator of the fraction since one directly follows the other in my memory. As I'm subtracting 1, when I get to the next step, I now no longer trust what I think is the fraction. So what I often do is start the measurement at the ten-inch mark on the tape. I find it easier to subtract 1 from the tens digit and keep track of the ones digit and the fraction. For instance, if the measurement is 24 and 5/16, my tape will read 34-5/16. Since it's obvious that the distance isn't nearly three feet, I subtract ten from 34 to get 24 and maintain the same fractional amount. Anyway, I'm not sure why, but this often works better for me. So I'm passing it along in case it will benefit anyone else.
@@TrainingHandsAcademy - Thanks! I hope my explanation made sense. Another way of looking at it is that I'm starting the tape measure at zero, except that my zero has a one in front of it. Like I said, this works for me. Maybe someone else will find it helpful. Try it and see. Cheers! 😀
@@TrainingHandsAcademy sorry, I should have been more clear. I’m referring to the measurement from the inside of the carcass to the inside portion of the face frame. Why is it different on the sides and top and bottom? Also, if you were to put in a drawer with a soft closing drawer slides how would you mount the drawer slides with a face frame?…build up the inside of the carcass flush with the face frame? Sorry don’t meant to get too nitty gritty with the details :)
@@paulgrabowski The face frame width is the same but the amount it overhangs differs because the sides need to overhang a certain amount so that the cabinet can meet up with the next cabinet. The top can't overhang the top of the box or the countertop will not sit down... so it sits flush with the top of the box. The bottom number overhang is personal preference, some like to have a little overhang and some don't...just depends on what your building. Yes, you will need to add fillers for the draw slides. Hope that helps.
Great question! It can... but not always. For instance, if the upper cabinet is going against a side wall, leaving only a 1/4" wouldn't normally be enough to allow for proper door function and scribing the cabinet to the wall.
@@callyscraftycorner2463 1/4" sounds like it will work just fine. Find me on instagram if you'd like to share photos or get additional help from me during your build. instagram.com/traininghandsacademy/
Jesus Christ died for all of our sins. He died the death we all deserved. He was the perfect one who never sinned once, but he loved us so much he decided to die for us so our sins would be paid for and we can enter the Kingdom of Heaven before God the Father blamelessly. He is the living son of God who wants to know us and have a personal relationship with us. No matter what you have done no matter how far gone you think you are Jesus can and will save you. All you have to do is confess with your mouth and believe in your heart that Jesus Christ is your Lord and Savior. Believe that he died on the cross for your sins and had a bodily resurrection 3 days later. We cannot be saved by our works but by faith in Christ alone. Repent and turn to Christ. You will have joy, happiness, love, and peace beyond understanding.
You cover a lot of basics without spending too much time on the obvious. Well done. Video moves quickly and is complete.
Much appreciated! If you want to support my work, please drop some more comments on my other videos! This helps to wake up the YT algorithms. :)
That’s like 5 years of woodworking experience in one video 👏
Love the nail trick supporting the face frame temporarily
The little brad nail trick was perfect. I am making a face frame that is 70" x 30"... its my first time making a face frame and i am worried about it lining up right lol
I like the brad nail trick, never seen that before. Thanks Josh
I saw it at Make Something a few mins ago and it was not explained. Now it makes perfect sense and I’ll definitely use that. If I can figure out what that snipping tool is.
I’ve not seen it before either. Great trick!
Those pliers are used to cut and bend pencil rod when installing drywall ceilings from concrete ceilings.
That’s what I was going to say. Genius!
@@rosierose1122 You can use a set of dikes, sidecutters or the cutter on your needle nose pliers.
Instructional video PERFECTION. I was super nervous about building face frames today but--thanks to you--I know I'll be able to do this alone. Thank you so much
Great to hear! Have fun!
Dayummmmm dude, I am about to build a cabinet for my dad since his got rotten by insects and you saved me quite a time about thinking ty
Get building my friend! :)
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
This video realy motivates and encourage beeginers and enthusiastics like me to dare to doing things that I considerated allmost imposible,thanx and blessings from Mexico
Thank you my friend for the blessing. If you need help I'm always available.
Finally. All the answers I've been surfing for. You've included SO many tips and tricks in just a few minutes of video. Several 'ah ha' moments for me. Since I'm staining and don't want nail holes I'll glue and pocket hole screw the top and bottom of the face frame to the carcass where they won't be seen and glue and clamp the sides. Thank you! Subscribed.
Glad you found my video!
Great information there, not too long and boring. Thank You Sir.
Super helpful and concise. Thank you.
You're brilliant! I didn't know the snipping the brad nails off before gluing trick!
" TIPS OF THE TRADE'... PROFESSIONAL CRAFTSMEN HAVE THEM....ALL KINDS...I LOVE IT!
Thank you for this. This was like fourteen questions all answered. And I don’t have to search anymore! When I’m done with this monstrosity that I’m building, I’m going to watch all of your videos!
Awesome, thank you! If you want to support my work, please drop some more comments on my other videos! This helps to wake up the YT algorithms. :)
Wow. Nice explanation. Even a beginner like me understands it :)
New Subscriber!!! I just picked up a Kreg pocket jig 320, a hinge jig, and a shelf peg hole jig, along with some clamps tonight!!! The “new” 320 jig has size markings on the drill bit, with a window to line up the different sizes on the collar. It also has moveable bottom tabs that are size marked for a very user friendly setup. I’m refacing my kitchen cabinets, and building some new new ones. I’m gonna be using some of your excellent tips for making new shaker style doors. Can’t wait to start tomorrow!!!
Welcome Chester! If you have questions or would like to share photos of your work with me, email them to josh@traininghandsacademy.com
Thanks for sharing! Excellent, brief but to the point tutorial. 👍
Great instructions, thanks. Your descriptions of what you use are very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
A timeless video! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
Glad you enjoyed it!
The brad snipping is a GREAT tip!
very nicely done that nail tip in the cabinet is awesome . its a "Why didn't I think of that ? moment , thanks
I like the nail cut idea thank you 👍
Finished my kitchen cabinet the other day and was about to make the face frame. Perfect timing. Thanks
That is awesome!
Cool trick about using the nails to hover the face plate.
Clipped nails!!!! GREAT IDEA!!! thank you❤
Thank you thank you thank you for making this video. It was extremely easy to understand and helped clear some things up!
You're very welcome!
Thank you for the video and the thorough explanation...keep up your good work and as always God bless you and your family
So helpful. I’m building my wife a blanket rack. Off to buy this jig!
This is really helpful! Clear and concise
Awesome, thank you! If you want to support my work, please drop some more comments on my other videos! This helps to wake up the YT algorithms. :)
I wish I’d seen that “cut the brad nail off to help align the face” trick about 4 days ago! Trying my first cabinet build and the face frame was real tricky and messy as you outlined because it skated around on that glue like crazy. I’ll try that next time as it looked like a good trick.
Very thorough. THANK YOU!
The alignment tip at 5:53 is awesome!
EXCELLLENT!!! YOU ARE A GREAT TEACHER!
I'm glad you think so. :)
Thank you for your video! We have a small kitchen and you have given me the confidence to tackle making custom cabinets for it. Once the cabinets are built, I am not sure about the installation of them, and how to attach base trim to make them look professionally finished. Any suggestions you could provide would be great! Thanks and keep the awesome videos coming!
Hey Terri! Unfortunately, I don't have any videos on installation yet, so I would just do a search here on YT and see what you can learn. Then, if you have questions you can hit me up here, or email me. Thanks for watching!
wonderful video! So incredibly helpful. Many many thanks!
You're very welcome!
Thanks. Just watched your cabinet build video and this totally completes it! Clear and concise
Great video. What's your tip for keeping your face frame lumber straight after ripping the pine? I'm always concerned the wood will warp/bend even a little, which might open up your joints. Any tips? (this could apply to all projects using lumber). What if I dont have a jointer? Maybe I dont need to worry about it warping/bending once its glued? Thanks!
Great video! Not a lot of fluff, great tips!!!
Awesome video! Straight to the subject! Could you do the same video on drawers?
Many thanks from Canada
Great video, thank you! This helps a lot for new people, making my first cabinet :)
Dude you’re awesome. Exactly what I was looking for.
this is a great video. absolutely perfect. thank you
Thank you.
I was taught in cabinet making school, to always use cauls when gluing face frames. This will insure that there will be even pressure along the edge eliminating any gaps, especially on finished ends. Forget about using pocket holes for attaching face frames, this could lead to problems. Also, I would like to point out that using cauls will eliminate the need to brad nail the s*** out of the face frame, like I have seen in many videos. You really only need a couple of nails, (I place then near the top), to hold the frame in place. If you like the idea of drive and clip the nail head off, I'm ok will that.
Awesome thank you for sharing your awesome project with us today from Henrico County Virginia
Excellent tips. Thank you.
nice brad nail to "set" frame trick!
Great tutorial video 👍🇬🇧🇺🇸 thanks for sharing
Great content, as always!
Thank you Richard, have a great day!
Thanks!!!! I'm ready now!
Fantastic video
Thanks for the visit
Nice as always! The slower pace is also enjoyable, good for a change. Thanks for the content!
Glad you noticed the pace change. Have a great day Kauer!
Seen a few of your videos. Always super advice and well made. Thank you.
Thank you Anthony!
Thanks for this great video. If you are making a face frame for a cabinet that will be beside another cabinet (that is, attached to it) should the face frame be flush to the cabinet sides so there is no overhang?
No, you always want a little overhang just incase the box or wall is off a bit you can be certain the face frame will line up. Hope that makes sense.
When it comes to installing cabinet door handles (either knobs or pulls), they are always placed on the opposite side from the door hinges. You'll specifically want to place them anywhere between 1'' and 4'' from the top or bottom edge of the door.
itsReallyLou
0 seconds ago
"just be sure to deduct one inch from your measurement" ! Ha! Ha! Ha! Thanks for the very nicely done video!
When building cabinet face frames (that will have a countertop), wouldn’t the maker elect to have the rails run the full width of the cabinet and rest on top of the stiles? In this way, the rails transfer load from the countertop/surface to the stiles and prevent sagging.
Totally appreciate the info
Perfect video. 🔋
Will an mdf hanging cabinet using pocket holes and glue going to fall apart when I start to fill it up? Sides top and bottom are 16mm thick. Back is 19mm. Approx size of circus 3ft wide, 1 ft deep, 2ft tall. There will also be a bottom panel and side panel and 2 doors. My question is this too much weight for mdf to handle?
I love your chanel. Keep up the great work
Hey Bill! That is a very good question, and I don't have an exact answer. I'm sure it would be fine, but I've never trusted/put much faith in MDF.
Awesome … thanks for sharing … 🙏🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
I have two open cabinets side by side, any changes in how I would make the frames?
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
dude!
great videos
Thanks bro!
hi what is the size of wood you use for the face frame and as well as it thickness?
What kind of wood did you use for the faces?
Hey what brand of flush cutter pliers are those? The ones I got at harbor freight won't even cut paper...
They are old Kobalt's... they are hard to find now.
I tried this in the past with a solid metal jig, which I was hoping was going to last longer & be more durable; however, after doing just a single set of facings on a handful of cabinets I noticed things not lining up quite right. I looked down the metal hole in the jig and saw that the side of the drill bit had chewed away at the inner top of the guide hole because as the bit was starting to drill into the wood, the wood pressed the side of the bit up against the side of the guide hole, cutting into it. Have you ever seen this. Do you think the metal in my jig hole was prob just not as good quality as I thought? Or maybe because I was using a standard drill bit rather than one that had the smaller bit extension sticking out further from the tip? I noticed your bit had that.
I would blame it on using the wrong drill bit... could be the metal, but again sounds like the drill bit.
Hi! I have a question! When you use faceframes, how do you put the slides??? Do you put some kind of suplement between the slides and the side panel? Is there any other way?
Thanks!
Hello! The face frames get screwed together without anything in between.
I have a aquarium stand that I am building out of two-by-fours trying to make it look like it was part of the house the front half will have two doors on the bottom frame that swings out doors on the side of the aquarium that swings out and two doors above the aquarium that will go up towards the ceiling on the side of my case work I will have two doors that will swing open my question is what's the best way to mount the framework to the two-by-fours and what type of hinges would I need to hold the upper doors that swing towards the ceiling upright and the doors do not come down on my head when working around the aquarium also on the side of my stand I was thinking about the bottom door having glass so I can see my control board is this something that can be done if all the other doors will be flat panel or do you think that would look out of place
Perfect
Is there any rhyme or reason to how much interior and exterior overhang the frame should have? Still trying to understand this part.
What type of wood do you recommend for the face frame? Can you use the same plywood as the cabinet or is that not recommend?
Not recommended. If painting, I like to use Poplar.
@@TrainingHandsAcademy is that like a hard wood ? Can I get it at home depot? Also if I'm gonna laminate or formaica can i do that at the end? Once the cabinet is all done?
@@TrainingHandsAcademy that k you so much for your insight
@@OKVanAutoUpholsteryBellGardens Yes, HD sells Poplar and yes tops are last once the cabinets are done.
The "play" in tapes does not make them less accurate, it accounts for the size of the tab. Push the tab against something and it subtracts the width, pull on it and it adds it.... better than cutting things 1" short on accident :D
Kind of hard to pull the tab on a pencil line though.
Is it best to use select grade pine or use polar for cabinets doors and frames, not staining going to paint?
Hey Jerry! I personally would use poplar.
Thank you so much for your instructional videos. I find it very helpful! Only if you could try and speak a little slower, for people like me, because english is my second language. Thank you and God bless you...
Thank you for the comment George, and may God's blessings be with you and your family!
In youtube you can slow down the playback by clicking on the gear icon for settings
How come you want an overhang on the outside of the cabinet? Won’t there be a gap in between two cabinets when you butt them up?
Yes, you need that gap so each complete cabinet box can come together tightly on the face frame... not the box itself.
Ahh thank you
Informative
If you have a multiple shelves or cabinets that align, do you run one continuous stile all the way up and then insert the rails?
I like to make one big face frame just like the one in the video (obviously yours would be much bigger), then insert the middle stiles where needed. Does that make sense?
@@TrainingHandsAcademy I believe so. Thank you for the response.
When measuring point to point on a cabinet like that, there are usually fractions involved. I sometimes find it difficult to keep track of both the ones digit and the numerator of the fraction since one directly follows the other in my memory. As I'm subtracting 1, when I get to the next step, I now no longer trust what I think is the fraction.
So what I often do is start the measurement at the ten-inch mark on the tape. I find it easier to subtract 1 from the tens digit and keep track of the ones digit and the fraction.
For instance, if the measurement is 24 and 5/16, my tape will read 34-5/16. Since it's obvious that the distance isn't nearly three feet, I subtract ten from 34 to get 24 and maintain the same fractional amount.
Anyway, I'm not sure why, but this often works better for me. So I'm passing it along in case it will benefit anyone else.
That is awesome David! Thank you so much for sharing and supporting our community. 👊
@@TrainingHandsAcademy - Thanks! I hope my explanation made sense. Another way of looking at it is that I'm starting the tape measure at zero, except that my zero has a one in front of it.
Like I said, this works for me. Maybe someone else will find it helpful. Try it and see.
Cheers! 😀
Thanks
What is the reason for the different inside measurements from the face frame and carcass on the sides, top and bottom?
It has to do with the way the cabinets go together. If you are building a single cabinet you can make them anything you want. :)
@@TrainingHandsAcademy sorry, I should have been more clear. I’m referring to the measurement from the inside of the carcass to the inside portion of the face frame. Why is it different on the sides and top and bottom?
Also, if you were to put in a drawer with a soft closing drawer slides how would you mount the drawer slides with a face frame?…build up the inside of the carcass flush with the face frame? Sorry don’t meant to get too nitty gritty with the details :)
@@paulgrabowski The face frame width is the same but the amount it overhangs differs because the sides need to overhang a certain amount so that the cabinet can meet up with the next cabinet. The top can't overhang the top of the box or the countertop will not sit down... so it sits flush with the top of the box. The bottom number overhang is personal preference, some like to have a little overhang and some don't...just depends on what your building. Yes, you will need to add fillers for the draw slides. Hope that helps.
You use 3/4 x 1 1/2 pine? So 1x2 at the store?
Yes, most stores... but not all.
Does the over hang measurement of 1/4 pertains to wall cabinet also?
Great question! It can... but not always. For instance, if the upper cabinet is going against a side wall, leaving only a 1/4" wouldn't normally be enough to allow for proper door function and scribing the cabinet to the wall.
Thank you for your quick reply. My cabinets will have concealed hinges. And I’m making 2, but they are going on the left and right side of a window.
@@callyscraftycorner2463 1/4" sounds like it will work just fine. Find me on instagram if you'd like to share photos or get additional help from me during your build. instagram.com/traininghandsacademy/
Genio!
Great !
Isn't pine too soft of a wood for cabinets?
For workshop cabinets it's fine, for anything else it is not. Poplar works great for face frames if you are painting. Thanks for the comment Sarah.
You mean add an inch not deduct when measuring from the 1 inch mark. Just fyi lol
Making Australian cabnits
Metric cabinets
use half-lap joints not pocket holes.
Please make a video showing how
@@egarciaeg420 : there are thousands of videos on that already if you’re interested.
im embarrassed at the number of times ive forgotten to remove that extra inch.... thats what she said lol
please speak more slowlee
Thank you for the comment. I will have long-form classes coming soon on my website.
Only one suggestion: go metric.
Jesus Christ died for all of our sins. He died the death we all deserved. He was the perfect one who never sinned once, but he loved us so much he decided to die for us so our sins would be paid for and we can enter the Kingdom of Heaven before God the Father blamelessly. He is the living son of God who wants to know us and have a personal relationship with us. No matter what you have done no matter how far gone you think you are Jesus can and will save you. All you have to do is confess with your mouth and believe in your heart that Jesus Christ is your Lord and Savior. Believe that he died on the cross for your sins and had a bodily resurrection 3 days later. We cannot be saved by our works but by faith in Christ alone. Repent and turn to Christ. You will have joy, happiness, love, and peace beyond understanding.
Jesus this imperial system is so unnecessary. Defo not straight forward at all 😴
Thanks