Hi great video. I'm gonna attempt cue tip replacement and oiling my cue. I have already sanded down some excess lacquer. I'm wonder if I should oil cue or re-tip first ?
Soft talismans are the best tips ive ever used for snooker. Got a highest break of 63 witg elkmaster no matter how hard i tried. Changed to talisman and once i got used to the tip i made breaks of 86 or so
Honestly, I don't know. It looks square but I can't answer if it is perfect which is how you will want your tip and ferrule to be. Again, it really depends if you are trying to take some of the ferrule (brass) off or the remainder of the tip/ glue. I personally wouldn't use it for this as if you square the ferrule or surface really carefully and a little at a time it should be ok. Generally it's only when you go at it at speed that the mistakes happen. It would be interesting to know if it's your ferrule that's out and by how much?
Snooker crazy, and suggestions on how to remove the deep line scratches I've just made on the brass ferrule whilst attempting to use the scalpel to shape my tip. There very noticeable, should I use sandpaper or wire wool If so what gradient. Next time I'm gonna use masking tape on the ferrule aswell as the wood to avoid scratching further. Thnx
Hi If you invert the cue so the tip is on the surface, pkace the scalpal on the bottom if the tip and slice toward the surface you shouldn't get any cut line on the ferrule, unfortunately your scalpal must be sliding down the side wall of the ferrule before it gets close to the tip. Putting masking tape on the ferrule will help you realise your blade isn't on the tip, it's a feel thing really. Hopefully your blade scratches aren't too deep as I would use strips of the lightest paper to remove them as ultimately each time you do this you are removing brass. Try the 0000 grit steel wool first as this is a polishing grade ir 4000 micromesh paper. If these aren't enough then you can only increase the grit until any scratches are removed. Take as much time on your next tip to avoid scratches as it obviously saves work; I've obviously done a few thousand tips over 40 years so I generally only tough the ferrule with the side of the scaplal blade by feel. Hope this helps.
@@marclockley3229 Hi Marc, firstly, thnx for taking the time to respond. Historically I used to upend the cue on a table and use Stanley knife to slice down on the tip but I saw the scalpel method. I neglected to mention I used a curved scalpel blade No 12 ala Giles Martin from snooker legends and I think as I worked my way up towards mid & upper parts of the tip the curved edge invariably hooked and scored the ferrule. Something I feel wld not happen or be less so w a straight No 10 blade as used by snooker crazy. I have now purchased those blades and will use those over curved going forward. Cheers so much for the kind advice.
@@sanjirosanjiro6529 No problem. Agreed, if using a no.12 then there's always that risk. Obviously Giles has been doing it a while. Either method is fine as long as the blade is resting on the part of the tip you want to cut and not the ferrule, sometimes it's difficult to see. Best of luck.
@@marclockley3229 Thank you very much I'll get that ordered. I've just fitted a new Talisman but in the shaving process the stanley just feels to bulky :)
I've heard lots of great things about Andy's tips but still haven't bought any! I will have to bite the bullet. I guess there are a lot of good tips out there nowadays. The Elks are a little inconsistent but I have heard they are upping their game so watch this space!
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 did they up their game? there are a lot of counterfeits available from the far east but sad the say, some of my mates think they are better than the real thing. less bedding in time, good springy feel on impact. I just bought an authentic box from a dependable retailer and it appears to be free from chalk dust, and the hologram label at the bottom of the box is no more. But the tip still bears the same deficiencies of the ones in the past (assuming the box I have is not an old stock...) I think what changed from 4 years ago and today is that there are quite a few different block tips manufacturers that are charging a premium (like 5 pounds per tip). Generally they feel more consistent than an elk.
Brilliant video, tip is just how I like em as well. I've always used a Stanley knife in the past even on talismans and just cut all edges off then smoothed them up, results are not as good as yours but usually pretty good otherwise it has to come straight off and do it again. Again, great video and I've just subscribed
Hi Mike, thanks for your kind words. Most people use a Stanley knife and do it exactly as you say. The scalpel is definitely the way to go if you are re-tipping all the time like myself as it's a cleaner cut saving time but both can achieve the same result. Enjoy the videos, hopefully I'll get time to do a few more soon.
@@wiganer Nice. Be careful. If I don't concentrate they are sharper than you think and very easy to stick it in your finger.................as I've found out!
Hi Mick Yes I've tried the pencil sharpener method and it was ok to a degree. I generally have to do many sorts of shapes each day so still prefer knife or scalpel blades as they can manoeuvre in lots of positions. Shaping I'd also really easy on a lathe. Each to their own really. As long as each person finds a method they're comfortable with.
This is definitely a great technique for cue master. I am not sure if this technique is applicable to everybody. I cannot rely on eye ball and hand sanding to achieve the proper symmetrical shape. I did a couple trials and the domes are always off. I was hoping there are some foolproof tools which can help the novice to shape the tip.
Hi Craig. If you mean the lump in the centre then personally I would rather just sand away the remainder of that layer so there is no lump. Cutting it with a scalpel would either still leave part of it, a hole or not the correct shape if fully removed. If you would then look to shape the tip after removing the lump you just as well sand through the layer and remove it; just my opinion.
I guess the first thing is to understand why it is not completely flat, is it: Too much glue left? Is the ferrule not fitted straight? Is the ferrule damaged at the top? Determining why you don't have a completely flat surface should dictate what you do next. If nothing is damaged and you just want it flat as you take the tip off then it is just a case of removing all the old tip and glue prior to fitting. Take small amounts at a time whilst checking with a flat instrument against the light (out of a window etc) to make sure there are no gaps under the flat surface and keep doing this until you are happy, take a small amount at a time. If the ferrule is damaged then I guess you have a choice. I generally just change the ferrule if it is damaged for a similar one. If you have to file it because of damage (or not completely level) then I use a second cut file (one direction cutting) and go carefully!
Hi Robert I've not see one that is laminated and an Elk equivalent but there are so many tips out there I'm sure someone else has found one. Elks are a bit hit and miss as regards hardness nowadays so I think you'll probably get a varied answer on this one.
Brilliant video 🖒 I have just purchased a budget Powerglide cue. The description says it comes with a '9.5mm Elkmaster Shape.' The tip on it isn't very good. My previous BCE cue was re-tipped with an Elkmaster tip and that was brilliant. I want to get the cue re-tipped with an Elkmaster. Do you think the Elkmaster out of a box will be better than the one that apparently came on the cue? Also, it says it is a 9.5mm ferrule, so what size tip do you suggest I should put on? 9.5mm or go bigger and trim down? I'd really appreciate your opinion. Thank you 👍
Personally (and opinions vary) I don't fit Elks as they are too inconsistent unless you are lucky enough to find a good one then they are great; I have to cut too many off so have stopped fitting them for customers unless they insist. I would generally cut an existing (factory) tip off and fit a preferred one; you may be lucky with the one on the new cue but too many are shaped on a lathe when new and I personally think the fibres melt/bond together with the heat and the tip doesn't play the same (that's my personal view). I would always fit a larger tip (10mm on a 9.5mm ferrule) and trim down, it also gets rid of any glue that gets on the outside of the tip. A good budget tip is a Grand Soft as a replacement for the Elk.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 thank you very much for your response. Yes, I'm not experienced by any means but this is my second new cue, and theres a hardness about the tips that come from the factory. Thanks, I'll try the tip you suggested... any other tip suggestions in terms of brand? I don't mine paying a bit more i.e mid range... thanks 🖒
@@MohammedAli-1 If you let me know a price range and where you are in the world I can probably advise better as it depends on humidity and if you can buy a cue where you are that has already dried correctly. Message me the Snooker Crazy Website contact page as the responses will be a little quicker. Hope this helps. Marc
Thanks for the reply. It's just the top of the ferrule isn't completely flat, it's slightly higher on one side than the other and the brass is a bit rounded on the edges.
It does sound like a good time to change the ferrule or get a skim of the face by a cue maker on a lathe, that would get the face level. If the ferrule is rounded at the top then it's diameter may have reduced through sanding and shaping.
Hey thanks. Another qns. I always struggle with tips i can change tips in days if i dont feel it right had tried talisman elks and kamui im a touch player like Selby Williams and Ronnie Any tip to recommend for me sir here in sg. Need a tip for potting accuracy
Tips are obviously personal that's why each professional doesn't play with the same one. The tips I like at the moment and are started to grow in popularity with the pro's is the Century range of tips, I use them and love the fact that they are consistent. www.snookercrazy.com/shop/product/snooker-cue-tips/century-pro-snooker-cue-tips/
Century Tips are all the rage at the moment and they sell 4 grades so you can see which one you like and then replicate it when it requires replacement. Although not on sale yet, Mark Williams uses the C5. www.snookercrazy.com/shop/product/snooker-cue-tips/century-pro-snooker-cue-tips/
sometimes I do feel that the marks on the ferrule are caused by the masking tape and glue. How they ended up there (I start work on a very shiny ferrule) is a mystery to me.
i tried changing my tip, i cleaned top of the tip, and flat new tip, but when i put it i can see very small gap. no matter how much more i clean or flatten the tip, still the same do i have to change the Ferrell ?
I would have to see it really. What I would say is find an instrument with a flat edge and place it on the top of your ferrule so you can check it is straight right across the ferrule and the wood. If you cannot see any gaps then as a rough guide it should be reasonably flat; check the whole circumference if the ferrule by turning the cue slowly. You could also place a new tip with a flat bottom and place that on the ferrule and if you cannot see any gaps now then possibly it's your tip where it has gone off a little as you have sanded it. Changing the ferrule is the last instance when you are really sure the ferrule is uneven. I'd try that first.
Hi Paul I chop and change to be honest. I like the loctitie liquid glue and haven't had any issues with it at all. I've been told it soaks up into the tip and will also delaminate laminate tips, I have fitted hundreds (if not more) and never found this to be the case and never had one come back. I also use Gorilla Gel which I find to be a great super glue gel. The beauty of the gel is it gives you a little extra time to position your tip before it goes off, this is not the case with a liquid and you have to be pretty quick!
I guess a lot of snooker players don't use cue doctors / makers to put tips on so do it themselves and not everyone had a lathe. I've seen guys using bench grinders for shaping and I personally think it melts the fibres, hardens the tip and it's not as good (but each to their own I guess). I've also seen a similar method on a lathe with carbon cutters and even people using a blade on the lathe, I just prefer to cue them by hand as the tip structure isn't affected in any negative way and why not do it like this as it doesn't take long. It's all personal preference and we all prefer our own methods I guess. Each person will swear by their method and it's the only one to use; As long as it doesn't affect the tip surface or structure of the tip when shaping then most methods are ok.
ok, fine, but the good scalpel isn't easy to found and the quality of my tip isn't always exactly the same quality of your tip (after more than 5 box of tips, i continue to have tip broken or tear in using small abrasive paper perhaps it's a joke of someone). if i center the tip, i cut the package and put this on the top of the cue, this is a perfect support for my tip.
I use a no.3 scalpel and a 10a blade, they are all the same and can be bought from Ebay so you will then have the same as me. When I'm cutting I'm also using different parts of the blade as each section blunts quickly. To get it how I like it I can use 2 or 3 blades on a single tip. Obviously this video is a Talisman tip video so hopefully we are talking about the same tip. I can't say I've had any tear out with any papers but maybe try using a finer paper and go from there. If you are still having some sort of tear out then send me a picture or a video of you doing it (on a Talisman).
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 the tip cut in twice... brittle. sometime, i use glue between layers, a tip box cost 20-30, you can try and test this tip...
Hi great video. I'm gonna attempt cue tip replacement and oiling my cue. I have already sanded down some excess lacquer. I'm wonder if I should oil cue or re-tip first ?
Hi
Leave the old tip on and finish the cue then re-tip.
If you re-tip first you could either damage the tip/shape or get your oil/wax on the tip.
@@marclockley3229 amazing thank you
Great video, I love a standard elk myself or a soft tailsman tip. Been putting tips on myself for a while.. keep up the good work
Thanks Darren. I'm always getting asked about tip fitting so nice to give something back.
Soft talismans are the best tips ive ever used for snooker. Got a highest break of 63 witg elkmaster no matter how hard i tried. Changed to talisman and once i got used to the tip i made breaks of 86 or so
Would you recommend the tweetens cue top sander to get a nice flat ferrule at the top?
Honestly, I don't know. It looks square but I can't answer if it is perfect which is how you will want your tip and ferrule to be.
Again, it really depends if you are trying to take some of the ferrule (brass) off or the remainder of the tip/ glue. I personally wouldn't use it for this as if you square the ferrule or surface really carefully and a little at a time it should be ok.
Generally it's only when you go at it at speed that the mistakes happen. It would be interesting to know if it's your ferrule that's out and by how much?
Snooker crazy, and suggestions on how to remove the deep line scratches I've just made on the brass ferrule whilst attempting to use the scalpel to shape my tip. There very noticeable, should I use sandpaper or wire wool
If so what gradient. Next time I'm gonna use masking tape on the ferrule aswell as the wood to avoid scratching further. Thnx
Hi
If you invert the cue so the tip is on the surface, pkace the scalpal on the bottom if the tip and slice toward the surface you shouldn't get any cut line on the ferrule, unfortunately your scalpal must be sliding down the side wall of the ferrule before it gets close to the tip. Putting masking tape on the ferrule will help you realise your blade isn't on the tip, it's a feel thing really.
Hopefully your blade scratches aren't too deep as I would use strips of the lightest paper to remove them as ultimately each time you do this you are removing brass.
Try the 0000 grit steel wool first as this is a polishing grade ir 4000 micromesh paper.
If these aren't enough then you can only increase the grit until any scratches are removed.
Take as much time on your next tip to avoid scratches as it obviously saves work; I've obviously done a few thousand tips over 40 years so I generally only tough the ferrule with the side of the scaplal blade by feel.
Hope this helps.
@@marclockley3229 Hi Marc, firstly, thnx for taking the time to respond. Historically I used to upend the cue on a table and use Stanley knife to slice down on the tip but I saw the scalpel method. I neglected to mention I used a curved scalpel blade No 12 ala Giles Martin from snooker legends and I think as I worked my way up towards mid & upper parts of the tip the curved edge invariably hooked and scored the ferrule. Something I feel wld not happen or be less so w a straight No 10 blade as used by snooker crazy. I have now purchased those blades and will use those over curved going forward. Cheers so much for the kind advice.
@@sanjirosanjiro6529 No problem. Agreed, if using a no.12 then there's always that risk. Obviously Giles has been doing it a while. Either method is fine as long as the blade is resting on the part of the tip you want to cut and not the ferrule, sometimes it's difficult to see.
Best of luck.
I have a question. What knife is that? Looks alot easier to use than a Stanley.
Hi
It's a no.3 scalpal that can be purchased on ebay. The blade is a 10a blade.
@@marclockley3229 Thank you very much I'll get that ordered. I've just fitted a new Talisman but in the shaving process the stanley just feels to bulky :)
@@Anyonewhos The scalpal will peel the tip like an orange on the side walls. They are ultra sharp and peel skin easier to watch how you go!!
Great video. I use elk master tips but find them very inconsistent. I prefer ADR 147 tips. They are brilliant and last for ages.
I've heard lots of great things about Andy's tips but still haven't bought any! I will have to bite the bullet. I guess there are a lot of good tips out there nowadays.
The Elks are a little inconsistent but I have heard they are upping their game so watch this space!
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 did they up their game?
there are a lot of counterfeits available from the far east but sad the say, some of my mates think they are better than the real thing. less bedding in time, good springy feel on impact.
I just bought an authentic box from a dependable retailer and it appears to be free from chalk dust, and the hologram label at the bottom of the box is no more. But the tip still bears the same deficiencies of the ones in the past (assuming the box I have is not an old stock...)
I think what changed from 4 years ago and today is that there are quite a few different block tips manufacturers that are charging a premium (like 5 pounds per tip). Generally they feel more consistent than an elk.
Brilliant video, tip is just how I like em as well. I've always used a Stanley knife in the past even on talismans and just cut all edges off then smoothed them up, results are not as good as yours but usually pretty good otherwise it has to come straight off and do it again. Again, great video and I've just subscribed
Hi Mike, thanks for your kind words. Most people use a Stanley knife and do it exactly as you say. The scalpel is definitely the way to go if you are re-tipping all the time like myself as it's a cleaner cut saving time but both can achieve the same result. Enjoy the videos, hopefully I'll get time to do a few more soon.
Scalpels ordered 😀👍😎
@@wiganer Nice. Be careful. If I don't concentrate they are sharper than you think and very easy to stick it in your finger.................as I've found out!
I suggest using a,big pencil sharpener so much easier than a blade.
Hi Mick
Yes I've tried the pencil sharpener method and it was ok to a degree. I generally have to do many sorts of shapes each day so still prefer knife or scalpel blades as they can manoeuvre in lots of positions. Shaping I'd also really easy on a lathe. Each to their own really. As long as each person finds a method they're comfortable with.
@thesnookercrazygroup3562 what would you recommend are the best tips out there now a soft 1 tho reaction wise. ??
@@mickmck13847 Pool or snooker Mick
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 snooker
@mickmck13847 At this moment in time Mick I think the market lacks a truly consistent soft tip for some reason.
This is definitely a great technique for cue master. I am not sure if this technique is applicable to everybody. I cannot rely on eye ball and hand sanding to achieve the proper symmetrical shape. I did a couple trials and the domes are always off. I was hoping there are some foolproof tools which can help the novice to shape the tip.
Could you use the scalpel to remove the lump from the tip?
Hi Craig. If you mean the lump in the centre then personally I would rather just sand away the remainder of that layer so there is no lump. Cutting it with a scalpel would either still leave part of it, a hole or not the correct shape if fully removed. If you would then look to shape the tip after removing the lump you just as well sand through the layer and remove it; just my opinion.
Thank you for the reply. Fantastic videos by the way.
@@wild1magic446 No problem. Thank you, glad they helped.
How can you make the top of the ferrule nice and flat by hand before fitting the tip? Use a file?
I guess the first thing is to understand why it is not completely flat, is it:
Too much glue left?
Is the ferrule not fitted straight?
Is the ferrule damaged at the top?
Determining why you don't have a completely flat surface should dictate what you do next.
If nothing is damaged and you just want it flat as you take the tip off then it is just a case of removing all the old tip and glue prior to fitting. Take small amounts at a time whilst checking with a flat instrument against the light (out of a window etc) to make sure there are no gaps under the flat surface and keep doing this until you are happy, take a small amount at a time.
If the ferrule is damaged then I guess you have a choice. I generally just change the ferrule if it is damaged for a similar one. If you have to file it because of damage (or not completely level) then I use a second cut file (one direction cutting) and go carefully!
hi there. what firmness of laminated tip would be equivalent to elkmaster, thx in advance.
Hi Robert
I've not see one that is laminated and an Elk equivalent but there are so many tips out there I'm sure someone else has found one. Elks are a bit hit and miss as regards hardness nowadays so I think you'll probably get a varied answer on this one.
Brilliant video 🖒
I have just purchased a budget Powerglide cue. The description says it comes with a '9.5mm Elkmaster Shape.' The tip on it isn't very good. My previous BCE cue was re-tipped with an Elkmaster tip and that was brilliant.
I want to get the cue re-tipped with an Elkmaster. Do you think the Elkmaster out of a box will be better than the one that apparently came on the cue?
Also, it says it is a 9.5mm ferrule, so what size tip do you suggest I should put on? 9.5mm or go bigger and trim down?
I'd really appreciate your opinion.
Thank you 👍
Personally (and opinions vary) I don't fit Elks as they are too inconsistent unless you are lucky enough to find a good one then they are great; I have to cut too many off so have stopped fitting them for customers unless they insist.
I would generally cut an existing (factory) tip off and fit a preferred one; you may be lucky with the one on the new cue but too many are shaped on a lathe when new and I personally think the fibres melt/bond together with the heat and the tip doesn't play the same (that's my personal view).
I would always fit a larger tip (10mm on a 9.5mm ferrule) and trim down, it also gets rid of any glue that gets on the outside of the tip.
A good budget tip is a Grand Soft as a replacement for the Elk.
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 thank you very much for your response. Yes, I'm not experienced by any means but this is my second new cue, and theres a hardness about the tips that come from the factory. Thanks, I'll try the tip you suggested... any other tip suggestions in terms of brand? I don't mine paying a bit more i.e mid range... thanks 🖒
@@MohammedAli-1 If you let me know a price range and where you are in the world I can probably advise better as it depends on humidity and if you can buy a cue where you are that has already dried correctly.
Message me the Snooker Crazy Website contact page as the responses will be a little quicker.
Hope this helps.
Marc
Thanks for the reply. It's just the top of the ferrule isn't completely flat, it's slightly higher on one side than the other and the brass is a bit rounded on the edges.
It does sound like a good time to change the ferrule or get a skim of the face by a cue maker on a lathe, that would get the face level. If the ferrule is rounded at the top then it's diameter may have reduced through sanding and shaping.
Thanks for the advice in your reply
No problem, happy to help.
What size tip is that in the video??
Hi
The ferrule in the video is 9.3mm so I would have put a 10mm tip on and cut it down.
Whats that knife called
Hi Daniel
The knife is a no.3 scalpel with a 10a blade. You can buy both on Ebay.
Hey thanks. Another qns. I always struggle with tips i can change tips in days if i dont feel it right had tried talisman elks and kamui im a touch player like Selby Williams and Ronnie
Any tip to recommend for me sir here in sg. Need a tip for potting accuracy
Tips are obviously personal that's why each professional doesn't play with the same one.
The tips I like at the moment and are started to grow in popularity with the pro's is the Century range of tips, I use them and love the fact that they are consistent.
www.snookercrazy.com/shop/product/snooker-cue-tips/century-pro-snooker-cue-tips/
Century Tips are all the rage at the moment and they sell 4 grades so you can see which one you like and then replicate it when it requires replacement. Although not on sale yet, Mark Williams uses the C5.
www.snookercrazy.com/shop/product/snooker-cue-tips/century-pro-snooker-cue-tips/
sometimes I do feel that the marks on the ferrule are caused by the masking tape and glue. How they ended up there (I start work on a very shiny ferrule) is a mystery to me.
The masking tape has never marked anything for me to be honest. Yes, if the glue touches the ferrule it will mark it.
Hi sir what brand knife are you using?
Hi Ronald
I use a scalpel. The blade holder is a no.3 and the blade is a 10a, they can both be bought off Ebay.
i tried changing my tip, i cleaned top of the tip, and flat new tip, but when i put it i can see very small gap. no matter how much more i clean or flatten the tip, still the same
do i have to change the Ferrell ?
I would have to see it really. What I would say is find an instrument with a flat edge and place it on the top of your ferrule so you can check it is straight right across the ferrule and the wood. If you cannot see any gaps then as a rough guide it should be reasonably flat; check the whole circumference if the ferrule by turning the cue slowly.
You could also place a new tip with a flat bottom and place that on the ferrule and if you cannot see any gaps now then possibly it's your tip where it has gone off a little as you have sanded it.
Changing the ferrule is the last instance when you are really sure the ferrule is uneven. I'd try that first.
i will try that, tnx
I been told only to use gel not the standard glue. I noticed you used normal glue
Hi Paul
I chop and change to be honest. I like the loctitie liquid glue and haven't had any issues with it at all. I've been told it soaks up into the tip and will also delaminate laminate tips, I have fitted hundreds (if not more) and never found this to be the case and never had one come back.
I also use Gorilla Gel which I find to be a great super glue gel. The beauty of the gel is it gives you a little extra time to position your tip before it goes off, this is not the case with a liquid and you have to be pretty quick!
Why do snooker players still put on tips by hand?
I guess a lot of snooker players don't use cue doctors / makers to put tips on so do it themselves and not everyone had a lathe.
I've seen guys using bench grinders for shaping and I personally think it melts the fibres, hardens the tip and it's not as good (but each to their own I guess).
I've also seen a similar method on a lathe with carbon cutters and even people using a blade on the lathe, I just prefer to cue them by hand as the tip structure isn't affected in any negative way and why not do it like this as it doesn't take long.
It's all personal preference and we all prefer our own methods I guess. Each person will swear by their method and it's the only one to use; As long as it doesn't affect the tip surface or structure of the tip when shaping then most methods are ok.
ok, fine, but the good scalpel isn't easy to found and the quality of my tip isn't always exactly the same quality of your tip (after more than 5 box of tips, i continue to have tip broken or tear in using small abrasive paper perhaps it's a joke of someone). if i center the tip, i cut the package and put this on the top of the cue, this is a perfect support for my tip.
I use a no.3 scalpel and a 10a blade, they are all the same and can be bought from Ebay so you will then have the same as me.
When I'm cutting I'm also using different parts of the blade as each section blunts quickly. To get it how I like it I can use 2 or 3 blades on a single tip.
Obviously this video is a Talisman tip video so hopefully we are talking about the same tip.
I can't say I've had any tear out with any papers but maybe try using a finer paper and go from there. If you are still having some sort of tear out then send me a picture or a video of you doing it (on a Talisman).
@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 the tip cut in twice... brittle. sometime, i use glue between layers, a tip box cost 20-30, you can try and test this tip...
do you sell tips from your stock ?
@@soupline256 Hi
Yes I sell tips on my website.
www.snookercrazy.com/product-category/tip-fitting-accessories/
@@soupline256 Can you confirm which tip you are using
I have checked many woodworking plan sites. I think the instructions from Woodprix are the best.