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What brand is it in the video? Thank you

Give Chris at snookerspex.com a call. I'd tried other snooker glasses without success and was about to pack in. His glasses enabled me to carry on playing.

@michaelheap5543 I have one you can try mate

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 thank you that would be great!

Hiya If you have frayed edges or tiny pieces of leather sticking out then you can take them off with a finer grade of sandpaper, eg 800 or 1200.

I love mine. Chris is very easy to deal with.

I would try the suppliers first for information and then the manufacturers.

I can't really answer that one fully Jason as I don't know the exact ingredients. As it's a balm designed to make the surface smooth I wouldn't think it's a direct replacement for finishing cues or it would advertise such. You could contact Jim who makes it but I've never gotten the impression it's ever been used as a finishing product.

It’s natural ingredients bees wax you rub and buff the cue for a smooth finish as my cue can get quite sticky at times the is people online using this product aswell

Yeah I'm very familiar with the balm and sell it, I also know Jim. It's always a tough one when when comparing products as it depends on type of wax and quantity in mixes. Beeswax can be sticky if the content is too high or you have sweaty hands. Naturally beeswax can melt a little just from body heat from your hands or a high room temperature so I know he has a big more in it. It will feel different to linseed oil but again, it depends on your playing conditions and personal hand temperature. You'd think this would be simple to answer but I've spent a few years making various finishing oils or oil wax mixes. ​@JasonClarke-l4d

Yes mate.

Only use new bottles of this, the adhesive can separate from the gel on older bottles.😮

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 Thanks mate, not a glue i see for sale here a lot but i can order a few from ebay. I'm used to Bison and loctite but as i had tips come off lately i want to try that gorilla.

Generally pretty good shafts. Not a fan of the joint though.

@thesnookercrazygroup3562 I have 2 both one piece so my preference has saved me some hurt there I guess

@@cfcsk2996 Good choice.😃

Hi Generally I'd advice a grain fill to start withand if it still catches then it could be a bit more drastic after this but really for a professional to do.

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 I think your right the grain isn’t smooth alright

I've heard of a few players doing that. As long as you have larger glasses so a larger focus area in the lens without curvature then should be good.

Hi Please contact first before sending as we try not to store cues awaiting work. We also only take cues from the UK as overseas courier damage and documentation has just become too much of an issue I'm afraid. You can find my details on the link below, many thanks. Marc www.snookercrazy.com/contact-us/

@jason147h6 Depends which raw you use and whether the flaxseed was grown at high or low altitude etc. I prefer raw and burnish it into the shaft and it's fine.

Great. Thanks Marc. Top man👍

@jason147h6 Hi Jason. I basically spin it at speed creating heat under my hand until hot and move my way up and down the cue. Generally I'll cut it bak afterwards with 0000 steel wool and burnish it again until happy it's super smooth and cooked in.

Brill. Thanks Marc. Great video content by the way👍

@jason147h6 No problem mate.

@@georgepaton1881 Generally do oil or a wax/oil mix. Oil/wax mix is generally if it is going over certain types of non wood foundations.

Oh.. already answered in the video. Thanks

No problem. Glad it helped you.

Hi Peter I don't disagree which is why I don't use this device, kine are completed on a lathe. The video is for helping people who have the cutter but uncertain how it works. I also think on many occasions parts of the tenon could be ripped from the cue if the blade isn't perfect.

Hi Depends on how the cue was finished. Some shaft sanding sealer are better with a wax oil mix where oil us probably better when no sealer is applied. As regards butt's it depends what the wood is.

Hiya Obviously we all have our preferred method to fit a tip. The method I show is a more basic method to help people get going without it being too complicated. Personally I generally fit tips holding a long sharp bare blade which I've been doing for years, most people would shred their hands which is why I don't promote it. I burnish the old way which is the shiny side of bare leather and the roll the cue up and down my thigh whist sitting, many long term tip fitters do the same. You can use wax but no real need as the side walls will go hard without it. Obviously Century supply a file which is one grade of coarseness but different players require different effects on the top surface of the tip hence using the appropriate paper. Some advise not to use paper as it may leave some of the sand in the tip surface, if you're not confident, just check the surface.😀

Hiya The videos are predominantly made for people that don't have the tools I have so they can still have a go. I have a cue lathe but if it's a lacquer that's crystalising or brittle it comes off pretty quickly with a scraper without all the dust.

I've allays used low tack decorators tape as it doesn't pull anything off the shaft, doesn't leave any residue on the shaft but sticks to itself whilst protecting the shaft so where's the downside.

Hi Ian Generally, lacquer can be used to cover problems. Lots of times it's been removed to find wood isn't ebony but painted cheaper woods, poor shafts or repairs. I don't have a real.problem with it as long as it's only used on the cue butt for grip.

Wire wool is a polishing grade and will normally remove any oxidation if the brass and put a shine on the ferrule, it won't remove deeper scratches.

Yes, I use 0000 wire wool

Hi Cue refurbs are all different prices depending in what needs to be completed. You can contact me directly on info@snookercrazy.com if you want to find out more. Many thanks.

This all depends on which make/type of cue I'm fully refinishing John. It can be just linseed oil, oil wax mixture, mixed waxes, polishes or if requested even a light lacquer but that's rare.

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 it’s just a Chinese one that came covered on varnish so I got it all of had no problems with the shaft just the butt. But I’ll try boiled linseed next I think cheers mate.

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 actually I have also heard about just hand sanding with 200 400 and finishing with 600 do you know anything about that method?

@@johnetherington6801 Depends which Chinese cue and whether it is actually ebony or just black as it could be ebonex (man made material).

Wiechester

Generally a cotton towel

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 Thank you

Hiya Just try and find a clear linseed oil. They are all processed differently and some are bleached so clearer.

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 OK, thank you. It was silly of me to assume they were all the same colour, now that I think about it.

I guess if you have a steam gun that will reach even the section that the cue is clamped against. I would think it's still easier to steam first then quickly clamp.

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 OK, thank you.

Best to contact me through the snooker crazy website. Thanks.

Hi Mike The thinking is that as titanium has less mass the cueball will throw less once struck; people seem to be sat in two camps as to whether they agree or not. I change a lot to titanium which players seem to want to improve the throw on their long game. What players generally don't take into account is that if throw is in fact reduced they they will not only have to adjust for their long game, but also for their short game when they're in the balls. It's always been s great debate but most stick with brass unless really searching for an edge in their game or really struggling on long shots. Lots of varied opinions on this topic though.

They're certainly not easy to set up!

Hi Richard Yes, refurbs and tips on a daily basis. Contact us through the Snooker Crazy website for details.

Hi Mike The very expensive ones generally don't have lacquer but yes, I've done it to a fair few Rileys between 5 to £700 and then grain filled and added a wax oil mixture to give a decent finish.

@@thesnookercrazygroup3562 Surely you don't get the blades out on the expensive cues do ya ?