As this is very detailed install vid, I got few updates. I have a 2023 Rally and just did the valve and spring install. My rebound dampening rod has a built in sleeve washer, that's the first part of the gold valve kit you install. The smaller diameter part of that factory sleeve is bit shorter then the Race Tech part (factory uses spring washer vs coil spring for Race Tech). I used the "accidentally" supplied 8 mm shims to extend this 8 mm portion to match the Race Tech supplied part, and then assembled the gold valve/shim stack without issues. I confirmed my solution with Race Tech, got thumbs up. The other point is about the spring spacer tube and the top brass washer. I did not use the brass washer. If you inspect your factory fork cap, you will find a big washer and a rubber cushion above it. This washer/cushion is designed to accept the spacer tube. By using the supplied tube (as delivered length) my installation was: steel washer on the bottom, the spring, steel washer, the plastic washer, spacer tube and finally the factory fork cap. I ended up with light preload on the spring (I am a light guy at 170 lbs). The result is a good free and rider sag. Hope this helps someone.
Update, I just return from a 2000 miles "true" adv ride here in Indonesia. All road and off road conditions were encountered. For my 170 lbs, lower crash bars/skid plate and about 25 lbs on the back, the Race Tech front spring is way too stiff. The fork zip tie showed maybe 70 % of suspension used. On paved roads the stiffer fork works well, off road not so much. Purchasing the spring, I was surprised that I had no rider weight choice. My YSS rear shock is offered with three rider weights. Bit of a miss from Race tech in my opinion.
Jake you are one of the reasons I’m a mechanic today. Thank you sir for your wisdom earlier in my life. I’ve been watching since hand warmers on the old wr450 🤣
I did the fork spring and the rear shock on my 250L and the thing handles like it’s on rails. Even in the winter in low temps you can throw it around the corner and that’s in the dual sport tyres not on sumo’s. You’ll have a fun ride with them.
Little Warning for anyone undertaking this: Be careful when removing the bottom nut on the rebound stack. My impact took the last couple of threads off it so I ended up having to chase the threads. Not a big deal but something to be mindful of. Also Thank you Jake for having this out here! I watched your video and bought basically the same setup after seeing how awesome it is.
wish i saw this last week! i just did my seals n bushings with the racetech spring install in my '14.. it went pretty smooth though. The lower bolt on the damper was giving me grief, just spinning the whole damper around- but the secret to cracking it loose i think is the power tool you use, i just had to borrow something similar. love the new color on the uppers.
"dampening" is to get it wet. "Damping" is to control the motion. And instead of using an impact to remove the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg, stick the axle back in the lug and feel it by hand
I miss you doing moto vlogs on the old DRZ super moto, especially with spicy and Kalani, Thanks for the years of content its inspired me and helped me in so many ways
What a perfect video! Thanks. Great info, super clear and easy to see, explained in perfect depth. I was debating spring only vs spring plus valving ... was thinking to try just the spring first and then decide on valve kit or not.
Damping simplified: Let air out of basketball and try to dribble = heavy (lots) of damping. Like turning clicker IN. Pump ball up to to normal pressure= nearly ZERO damping. Like turning clickers OUT. Assuming you had clickers. So if you have a bike with minimal low speed damping, like ALL dual sports, and you add stiffer springs, you just added air to the basketball. It's gonna get freaky!
@@gailtaylor1636lol Honda doesn't have clickers or a suspension that anyone over a 10yr weight will want to bin second they go off road. Crf300 unfortunately has to have suspension touched as it can't get any worse
I’m curious of your education level. I’m a beginner In motorcycle mechanics, but you seem like you are well versed. You videos are organized and well executed.
You're also smart to wait to fiddle with the adjustments after getting them in the right ballpark for a reason you didn't mention. When I do setups like this for customers I tell them to give it a couple hundred miles at least to get your brain to reset to how the bike acts.
Love ya bro. I ended up selling my 300. I couldn't justify the cash you've spent so I sold it. Now it's time for 250/300 2st as suspension alone makes bikes cost almost same here (Australia. We pay more on parts and bikes than you guys)
Hi Jake! Some guy noticed they lose travel with the new spring in the left front leg. And that was too soft stock but too stiff with the new spring? Did you noticed this?
Thanks for your videos, super helpful. Do you know the measures of the stock fork spring? I need the external and internal diameter, to create a spacer to add preload. Thanks!
Just sharing my thoughts on this video. I did fork seals on my KLX and thought it was easier than I expected but was always concerned about messing with deeper suspension work. Since Jake made this look so simple, I am actually considering buying the 300L and doing the same thing. How much did you spend on these front and rear mods?
Oh man....I ordered the K-tech front and rear suspension upgrade for the 300L. In the front, it's just one spring that arrived. I called K-tech and they said that's how it's supposed to be for this bike. But you're saying it's a bad idea to just replace the single stock spring with a more stiff spring 'upgrade'. Would you suggest only using the rear k-tech shock and just forget about the front?
Hi Jake, awesome video! You convinced me to add these Gold Valves to my 300L! Q though, how did you anchor your damping / compression rod to your fork (min 21:17)? When I do this, the damping free floats and won’t anchor to the bottom of the fork. At this point, I’m stuck. 🤷♂️
I got the same set up as yours. RaceTech set up page did not allow for selection of the additional spring. In the Fork Comments on the built sheet, it seems like they assume you are installing the spring. At the oil level part, they now use inconsistent terminology: Oil Level - Spring side is RIGHT Spring Side 710 cc, Non-Spring Side 490 cc. I guess they are referring to the factory set up???? I live in Indonesia, have not gotten answer to my email in a week. Did you use 710/490 cc? Thx
one note- I would HIGHLY reccomend removing all the plastic swarf from the drilled holes in the plastic tube, these "plastic worms" could easily block that massive 1.3 mm bleed hole in the gold valve.
No but it will be better. A lot of people just do the spring kit and like it. I’ve road one like that and it’s not bad. With just the spring kit you don’t have to pull the fork all the way apart.
How much fork oil did you need for the left fork with your new RaceTech spring, and what oil weight did you use? 5W? 10W? Or did you just reuse the existing old fork oil. Thanks
I would definitely be verifying the spring pre load that's the most important part. Also why would you put the rear resivor right next to the motor you're going to cook that fluid.
That’s where they want it to go. And no it won’t hurt it. That’s a nitrogen reservoir, most factory motorcycles put them right over the exhaust which is way hotter.
I was wondering why you would want to waste money on painting the fork. The asphalt, dirt, sand, and rocks are not going to notice the difference. So there must be a referral link in your description. This CRF300L series is about all the ways one can spend money on "upgraded" parts rather than what is worthwhile or not. Free stuff is a hell of a drug.
@@TheGardenSnake just interested if it could do some light mx work. A few vids on here of guys replacing the rear with a nitron shock and running a couple laps around their local track. Really like everything you have done. Please keep it coming.
I have a 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 bent the forks badly when I hit a deer. Bought new OEM forks in 2018 for $208.00 each and paid over $600.00 for an Ohlin Cartridge kit.. An Amazing Improvement in stability and Handling.. I do need to upgrade my rear shock now. "I was double charged for the Springs" They were supposed to be included in the price of the Cartridge kit if I can recall that far back. They were on back order and had some hassles getting them even before the Plandemic
25in lbs is 2ft lbs so you could in theory get a 1ft bar and put a 2lb weight on the end and that would give you the proper torque. In theory it sounds good in practice probably not lol
I personally liked the god Forktubes, and am less of a fan of the matte black paint. Had that on my old 125, was probably just spraypainted or something but it looked like ass after the years from riding in the rain, etc.
Snake built the gold valves wrong.. on the 300l you need to shim the base plate so it covers a bit of the threads at base.. he didn’t read full instructions print out apparently..must do proper torque aswell
I weigh right about 200 lb I did a K-Tech full suspension upgrade now it's set up for up to 240 lb Rider and haven't even messed with the adjustments on the rear shock and spring kit but the thing is amazing... Got there 30% stiffer front spring replacement I think it's perfect I could comfortably go off some mid-size jumps and not ruin the bike
DO NOT USE LOCTITE, esp not red Loctite, when attaching the damping / rebound rod to the fork. I made this mistake and had to get a mechanic to remove the bolt, clean off the Loctite, and attach the rod to the fork. That was a $120 mistake that I won’t make again. Otherwise, everything else in this video was spot on!
Yep I never get notified either Your content has evolved and matured so much from the hooligan shit I grew up watching you do lol TH-cam should have a forgiveness program
I cant really agree with the whole "its $5200 on the showroom floor" from the other video if youre going to put $2000 worth of suspension on it combined with hours of labor. The market for this bike and where youre coming from have very little overlap. maybe 1% of riders are gonna wanna gut their shocks and possibly ruin them
Cool, I have the opposite. Lysdectia. 🤭 Nice bike. And great to do some long traveling. Own a ktm1190r for 4 years. And although it is an incredible bike it is to heavy. And with luggage on you get a tankslap going over 150 kph anyways. The first time on the German Autobahn i went immeadiatly to 180 kph. As i always do to shorten the time. And suddenly the bike wanted to go under me. Go everywhere exept straight.😬 Fucking KTM almost killed me. Giving me 1200 cc and then that behavior. Trying to kill the rider. But after that i went slow and avoided the highway. It teached me that the time lost is minimal. And what you get in return is much nicer. Taking the shortest route is giving you the better scenery. So this year i want to buy the CRF300 Rally. Because of the bigger tank. I wanted to go to Ukraine.🤔 Or Turkey and Iran. Be aware you Turks and Iranians. Here i come.😇 Want to explore the backcountry. And old places. For a lot of us ling travelers we may be coming to an endpoint. Cause gasoline prices will be going to the roof. So i light bike probably is better for the long journeys anyway. The only thing that is nagging my mind is the difference between the L and the Rally. I think the L is better suited for offroad. The tank is smaller so you can steer beter with your legs. But maybe i am wrong. Maybe you or someone else coukd give his or hers insight on this ? And what i also do not like are the springs from factory. You need to change the springs immediatly. So adding another 1200.00 to the bike. So it is actually not a cheap bike. For that money you can buy a T700 almost. Honda did a flaw job with this.
That would be a great trip. I think the rally could be nearly as good off road if you wanted. I’m keeping an eye out for a bigger aftermarket tank. Putting $1200 in the suspension is still not T7 money. Crf300l with suspension is $7200. T7 otd is around $11-12k.
I did the K-Tech shock and spring in the rear and the front spring 30% stiffer set it up for up to 240 lb Rider I'm 210 the thing is a blast and the rocket ship now do it do it do it
I did the same K-Tech shock and spring in the rear and 15% front spring stiffer set up for 185lbs rider. What a difference… it’s a fantastic shock set up from K-Tech.
Oh Jake how much I miss coming home from school and watching you be a complete mad man glad your still posting bro!
Jake our lord and saviour 🙏😂
"I actually bought this small torque wrench to do the job the right way" jake 2 seconds later doing it his way: "Click Click 🤷♂"
A LOT of value in this video. Thank you for taking the time to make it🔥
I may never get to this point of DIY but I still found this informative without being over complicated. Thanks Jake.
As this is very detailed install vid, I got few updates. I have a 2023 Rally and just did the valve and spring install. My rebound dampening rod has a built in sleeve washer, that's the first part of the gold valve kit you install. The smaller diameter part of that factory sleeve is bit shorter then the Race Tech part (factory uses spring washer vs coil spring for Race Tech). I used the "accidentally" supplied 8 mm shims to extend this 8 mm portion to match the Race Tech supplied part, and then assembled the gold valve/shim stack without issues. I confirmed my solution with Race Tech, got thumbs up.
The other point is about the spring spacer tube and the top brass washer. I did not use the brass washer. If you inspect your factory fork cap, you will find a big washer and a rubber cushion above it. This washer/cushion is designed to accept the spacer tube. By using the supplied tube (as delivered length) my installation was: steel washer on the bottom, the spring, steel washer, the plastic washer, spacer tube and finally the factory fork cap. I ended up with light preload on the spring (I am a light guy at 170 lbs). The result is a good free and rider sag. Hope this helps someone.
Update, I just return from a 2000 miles "true" adv ride here in Indonesia. All road and off road conditions were encountered. For my 170 lbs, lower crash bars/skid plate and about 25 lbs on the back, the Race Tech front spring is way too stiff. The fork zip tie showed maybe 70 % of suspension used. On paved roads the stiffer fork works well, off road not so much. Purchasing the spring, I was surprised that I had no rider weight choice. My YSS rear shock is offered with three rider weights. Bit of a miss from Race tech in my opinion.
Damn, this was SOOO informative and I already thought I knew most of this. Awesome video.
Thanks
Jake you are one of the reasons I’m a mechanic today. Thank you sir for your wisdom earlier in my life. I’ve been watching since hand warmers on the old wr450 🤣
I did the fork spring and the rear shock on my 250L and the thing handles like it’s on rails. Even in the winter in low temps you can throw it around the corner and that’s in the dual sport tyres not on sumo’s. You’ll have a fun ride with them.
Little Warning for anyone undertaking this: Be careful when removing the bottom nut on the rebound stack. My impact took the last couple of threads off it so I ended up having to chase the threads. Not a big deal but something to be mindful of. Also Thank you Jake for having this out here! I watched your video and bought basically the same setup after seeing how awesome it is.
Damping or Damped - reduced wave action.
Dampening or Dampened - to make wet.
MTB mechanics are merciless with this one
DANG, it looks way better with that new front end 💯💯
Dude thanks for this video. Never could have gotten thru this mod without it.
wish i saw this last week! i just did my seals n bushings with the racetech spring install in my '14.. it went pretty smooth though. The lower bolt on the damper was giving me grief, just spinning the whole damper around- but the secret to cracking it loose i think is the power tool you use, i just had to borrow something similar. love the new color on the uppers.
Great job with the garage upgrade. It's hard to keep small garages clean and then they get depressing to be in.
"dampening" is to get it wet. "Damping" is to control the motion. And instead of using an impact to remove the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg, stick the axle back in the lug and feel it by hand
I miss you doing moto vlogs on the old DRZ super moto, especially with spicy and Kalani, Thanks for the years of content its inspired me and helped me in so many ways
What a perfect video! Thanks. Great info, super clear and easy to see, explained in perfect depth. I was debating spring only vs spring plus valving ... was thinking to try just the spring first and then decide on valve kit or not.
Damping simplified:
Let air out of basketball and try to dribble = heavy (lots) of damping. Like turning clicker IN.
Pump ball up to to normal pressure= nearly ZERO damping. Like turning clickers OUT.
Assuming you had clickers.
So if you have a bike with minimal low speed damping, like ALL dual sports, and you add stiffer springs, you just added air to the basketball. It's gonna get freaky!
@@gailtaylor1636lol Honda doesn't have clickers or a suspension that anyone over a 10yr weight will want to bin second they go off road. Crf300 unfortunately has to have suspension touched as it can't get any worse
Looks totally awesome dude! 👌 Hands down the best looking crf L . You should be able to treat it more like a dirt bike now.
I’m curious of your education level.
I’m a beginner In motorcycle mechanics, but you seem like you are well versed. You videos are organized and well executed.
You're also smart to wait to fiddle with the adjustments after getting them in the right ballpark for a reason you didn't mention. When I do setups like this for customers I tell them to give it a couple hundred miles at least to get your brain to reset to how the bike acts.
That must be the best built CRF dual sport in existence…Awesome job!
I love your complex simplicity. I am engorged......with knowledge.
hahaha
Love ya bro. I ended up selling my 300. I couldn't justify the cash you've spent so I sold it. Now it's time for 250/300 2st as suspension alone makes bikes cost almost same here (Australia. We pay more on parts and bikes than you guys)
looking likes really good with them forks that color
Black looks great especially with seal saver
That's a good looking bike, I just bought a Kawasaki klx 300 sm and I'm really enjoying it, I'm new to the supermoto world.
Damping dissipates energy, dampening is to make things damp.
Words are hard. I do better with tools.
YES YES YES YES YES!
@@TheGardenSnake Click Click
Man, that bike looking sick. Absolutely love it
awesome content thank you sir! doing gods work here
great topic well covered, job well done - thanks for the info - appreciated
“Top Quality suspension Pays for its self every time you ride over a bump!”
I own a YZ85 at 23 horsepower and 160 pounds. That thing is way more fun than a Grom.
Thanks for the education vs just an install
Hey that "click" on your torque wrench there sounds just like mine does haha!
Hi Jake! Some guy noticed they lose travel with the new spring in the left front leg. And that was too soft stock but too stiff with the new spring? Did you noticed this?
Thanks for your videos, super helpful. Do you know the measures of the stock fork spring? I need the external and internal diameter, to create a spacer to add preload. Thanks!
Just sharing my thoughts on this video. I did fork seals on my KLX and thought it was easier than I expected but was always concerned about messing with deeper suspension work. Since Jake made this look so simple, I am actually considering buying the 300L and doing the same thing. How much did you spend on these front and rear mods?
Congratulations
Oh man....I ordered the K-tech front and rear suspension upgrade for the 300L. In the front, it's just one spring that arrived. I called K-tech and they said that's how it's supposed to be for this bike. But you're saying it's a bad idea to just replace the single stock spring with a more stiff spring 'upgrade'. Would you suggest only using the rear k-tech shock and just forget about the front?
Hi Jake, awesome video! You convinced me to add these Gold Valves to my 300L! Q though, how did you anchor your damping / compression rod to your fork (min 21:17)? When I do this, the damping free floats and won’t anchor to the bottom of the fork. At this point, I’m stuck. 🤷♂️
Got my head under it and used a pick tool to line it up, was tricky
I am stuck with the same problem
@@jackmorris5713 hit it w a heat gun do the lock tight melts, then try it again.
@@trojanaffairs I got it, thanks
The Ducati Scrambler has a similar set up Basically one ☝️ side is preload and the other rebound.
I got the same set up as yours. RaceTech set up page did not allow for selection of the additional spring. In the Fork Comments on the built sheet, it seems like they assume you are installing the spring. At the oil level part, they now use inconsistent terminology: Oil Level - Spring side is RIGHT Spring Side 710 cc, Non-Spring Side 490 cc. I guess they are referring to the factory set up???? I live in Indonesia, have not gotten answer to my email in a week. Did you use 710/490 cc? Thx
one note- I would HIGHLY reccomend removing all the plastic swarf from the drilled holes in the plastic tube, these "plastic worms" could easily block that massive 1.3 mm bleed hole in the gold valve.
Ordered the spring kit. Do i NEED to get the revalve kit as well?
No but it will be better. A lot of people just do the spring kit and like it. I’ve road one like that and it’s not bad. With just the spring kit you don’t have to pull the fork all the way apart.
How much fork oil did you need for the left fork with your new RaceTech spring, and what oil weight did you use? 5W? 10W? Or did you just reuse the existing old fork oil. Thanks
Great video buddy
Im a Yamaha guy and a mechanic. I enjoy your videos though!
I would definitely be verifying the spring pre load that's the most important part. Also why would you put the rear resivor right next to the motor you're going to cook that fluid.
That’s where they want it to go. And no it won’t hurt it. That’s a nitrogen reservoir, most factory motorcycles put them right over the exhaust which is way hotter.
I was wondering why you would want to waste money on painting the fork. The asphalt, dirt, sand, and rocks are not going to notice the difference. So there must be a referral link in your description. This CRF300L series is about all the ways one can spend money on "upgraded" parts rather than what is worthwhile or not. Free stuff is a hell of a drug.
you do great work Jake
Thanks 🙏
It would be great to see how it handles on a motocross track.
Well I told them it was being used for dual sport so it’s not set up for mx.
@@TheGardenSnake just interested if it could do some light mx work. A few vids on here of guys replacing the rear with a nitron shock and running a couple laps around their local track. Really like everything you have done. Please keep it coming.
A 300lb bike doesn't belong on a MX track.
Why?
OMG! Just sent the tubes to RaceTech or buy the Andreani cartridge kit.
They need to make a kit that uses a damper and spring for each leg.
I have a 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 bent the forks badly when I hit a deer. Bought new OEM forks in 2018 for $208.00 each and paid over $600.00 for an Ohlin Cartridge kit.. An Amazing Improvement in stability and Handling.. I do need to upgrade my rear shock now. "I was double charged for the Springs" They were supposed to be included in the price of the Cartridge kit if I can recall that far back. They were on back order and had some hassles getting them even before the Plandemic
25in lbs is 2ft lbs so you could in theory get a 1ft bar and put a 2lb weight on the end and that would give you the proper torque. In theory it sounds good in practice probably not lol
Where did you get these nice decals from?
I personally liked the god Forktubes, and am less of a fan of the matte black paint. Had that on my old 125, was probably just spraypainted or something but it looked like ass after the years from riding in the rain, etc.
Screw trick is cool. Still can't help but think, just use a strap wrench.
I need and want to rebuild my forks but i know i'll mess something up.
where did you get those graphics on the 300? I want some too!
th-cam.com/video/ZuZ6nHW0-dQ/w-d-xo.html
The rear shock reservoir mounted next to the engine... wouldn't that heat soak the fluid inside and thin it out?
No, that’s where you’re supposed to mount it. Nitrogen is not affected by that. Most factory ones put the exhaust directly underneath it.
🤯
👍👍👍 Well done!
🙏
The front spring kit is funny. They may as well have called it “Fat ass American suspension kit”.
Snake built the gold valves wrong.. on the 300l you need to shim the base plate so it covers a bit of the threads at base.. he didn’t read full instructions print out apparently..must do proper torque aswell
I weigh right about 200 lb I did a K-Tech full suspension upgrade now it's set up for up to 240 lb Rider and haven't even messed with the adjustments on the rear shock and spring kit but the thing is amazing... Got there 30% stiffer front spring replacement I think it's perfect I could comfortably go off some mid-size jumps and not ruin the bike
Measured my sag just yesterday on stock suspension: 160mm 🤣
Here's a really good test with the suspension fully complete th-cam.com/video/L7n9B5hoZfs/w-d-xo.html
DO NOT USE LOCTITE, esp not red Loctite, when attaching the damping / rebound rod to the fork. I made this mistake and had to get a mechanic to remove the bolt, clean off the Loctite, and attach the rod to the fork. That was a $120 mistake that I won’t make again. Otherwise, everything else in this video was spot on!
Heat is the enemy of loctite.
i wish i had your knowledge. i cant even tighten my chain correctly
Engineers and physicists say, "to damp", "use a damper", "increase the damping" - there's no "en" in the word.
I’m no word smith
Is it okay to add only the spring kit?
and how much improvement :)
Sure! I would suggest doing both but the spring will surly be better then stock.
@@TheGardenSnake thank you for quick reply
What stops the forks from bottoming out?
Do you think this would work for the 300 rally?
Of course. It’s the same equipment in that regards. They do have a different kit/settings for the rally since it’s a little heavier.
dude what brand is jake wearing in that flannel? The bike is great but that shirt is fucking clean lol
Why not fix the other side with dampening?
Get itchy boots sponsored for her bike.
Who else is buying one? If so how much out the door? My dealers charging 7k usd😳
Ouch. I got my abs model for $6k otd
Can this work with the CRF 300 Rally?
Yes, it's the same process. They will have differences because the rally is a little heavier. But Race Tech can make that work.
anyone knows which tires are the offroad ones that he fits at the end? Thanks
thought you had taken a break or something... havent got any notifications from you in months even tho i have it turned on.......sigh*
That’s ol TH-cam not taking care of me, thanks TH-cam. This is why I have a patreon.
Yep I never get notified either
Your content has evolved and matured so much from the hooligan shit I grew up watching you do lol
TH-cam should have a forgiveness program
8:45 anyone know the thread pitch on that bolt I cannot for the life of me find one to fit it
What headlight?
th-cam.com/video/Z_lZ2051JV0/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=JakeTheGardenSnake
I cant really agree with the whole "its $5200 on the showroom floor" from the other video if youre going to put $2000 worth of suspension on it combined with hours of labor.
The market for this bike and where youre coming from have very little overlap. maybe 1% of riders are gonna wanna gut their shocks and possibly ruin them
I just ate a box of Mike & Ikes.
🤮
20:48 it's damping not dampening
I not trust that my mechanic know to do this work correctrly 😥
Why are we dampening things?
Apparently they're not wet enough.
Cool,
I have the opposite. Lysdectia. 🤭
Nice bike. And great to do some long traveling. Own a ktm1190r for 4 years. And although it is an incredible bike it is to heavy. And with luggage on you get a tankslap going over 150 kph anyways. The first time on the German Autobahn i went immeadiatly to 180 kph. As i always do to shorten the time. And suddenly the bike wanted to go under me. Go everywhere exept straight.😬
Fucking KTM almost killed me. Giving me 1200 cc and then that behavior. Trying to kill the rider.
But after that i went slow and avoided the highway. It teached me that the time lost is minimal. And what you get in return is much nicer. Taking the shortest route is giving you the better scenery.
So this year i want to buy the CRF300 Rally. Because of the bigger tank. I wanted to go to Ukraine.🤔 Or Turkey and Iran. Be aware you Turks and Iranians. Here i come.😇
Want to explore the backcountry. And old places. For a lot of us ling travelers we may be coming to an endpoint. Cause gasoline prices will be going to the roof. So i light bike probably is better for the long journeys anyway.
The only thing that is nagging my mind is the difference between the L and the Rally. I think the L is better suited for offroad. The tank is smaller so you can steer beter with your legs. But maybe i am wrong. Maybe you or someone else coukd give his or hers insight on this ?
And what i also do not like are the springs from factory. You need to change the springs immediatly. So adding another 1200.00 to the bike. So it is actually not a cheap bike. For that money you can buy a T700 almost. Honda did a flaw job with this.
That would be a great trip. I think the rally could be nearly as good off road if you wanted. I’m keeping an eye out for a bigger aftermarket tank. Putting $1200 in the suspension is still not T7 money. Crf300l with suspension is $7200. T7 otd is around $11-12k.
You *dampen* a rag. You *damp* a spring.
The honda crappy design fatigues the axle and axle mounts over time.
i cringed so hard when you hit the shiny seal surface with a screwdriver...twice. use plastic tools on that part folks!
DeWalt? Really. 🤮 😂
That’s something to care about. Hey I own two ford, a mac computer, and I like my chili without beans. Have a fit or something 😂
stop watching this .. go watch a professional ..
I did the K-Tech shock and spring in the rear and the front spring 30% stiffer set it up for up to 240 lb Rider I'm 210 the thing is a blast and the rocket ship now do it do it do it
I did the same K-Tech shock and spring in the rear and 15% front spring stiffer set up for 185lbs rider.
What a difference… it’s a fantastic shock set up from K-Tech.