There's something satisfying about restoring old Tri-ang stuff. I've recently brought back to life an early 1960s Tri-ang Blue Pullman set. Been hanging around for years and finally it's up and running. Older than me and yet it runs a treat. The motivation was the endless troubles I've had with my Bachmann BP set; stripped out DCC and all the lighting so it now actually works. What a pain that was.
Great idea for a new type of video, Sam! Your struggles with The Scrap Man are quite entertaining, but your comments on the shortcomings of that format are spot on. I look forward to more like this one. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Interesting project! As someone who's done a couple of restorations, here are a few pointers I think might help: 1. For paint removal, use acetone on metal parts and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol on plastics. 2. Before repainting the cab take a photo of the text on the side, recreate it in Photoshop and print it out on decal paper for a fresh, new look 3. A buffing wheel and polish can really make any brass part shine like new. 4. Replace the motor magnet with a neodymium magnet for increased torque and pulling power. Good luck with this project, I think it'll look great when done.
Thanks for the tips re paint removal! The text on the side of the cab is fine, so the cab will be painted with a mask over the text. The brass parts do shine like new with my method. Neo magnets are a no-go for these motors - they accelerate wear and damage motors - the remagnetiser I use is a much better option! Thanks a lot for sharing, Sam :)
I'm always astonished by the dimensional precision of 3D printing (i do that kind of stuff too). Very satisfying to see this beautiful grandma of a loco coming back to life. The end is somewhat a cliffhanger for all of us who wants to see it running nicely and smoothly ;)
Can't wait for part 2. One thing I will recommend if you plan on doing more restorations in the future that involve removing wheels, and potentially gears, is investing in a NWSL gearpuller. I use it all the time to pull and put on wheels and gears on my locomotives. Just food for thought
I also agree that the slower pace is ideal, It actually provides a teaching method that can help us beginners to repair locos. I find that you provide a clear method of pulling apart a unit which is built on your knowledge (which I don't have :) so hope you can do a few more of these, maybe on an 0-4-0 and a Class 8 :)
Thrilled you’re doing this series Sam! I love Salvage or Scrap but always wished you had the time to make the locos look as good as possible. Really enjoyed watching the locomotive be completely dismantled; looking forward to part two and more installments! I think it’d also be neat to make minor improvements as you see fit like adding headlamp LEDs, adding some cab detail or crew, glazing, etc.
I dont watch your channel often (mostly just the reviews as you have the most thorough reviews on certain locos that dont just consist if “it looks good, runs good, so its good.”) and I especially dont watch a lot of the stuff that isnt reviews as it seems a bit campy (for entertaining the audience of course) but this video was quite soothing. I do think it benefits from the lack of the time limit and more careful process as it feels more relaxed and subsequently gives you a good look at the locos innards which is quite useful for many.
Another vote for this format as opposed to the timed ones. A few notes. Try buffing the brass pieces with some buffing compound and a felt wheel on your motor tool. A lot of "bit kits" have this included. Also may want to use a nylon wheel as opposed to a wire one when working near the motor. Although the magnets aren't good on this one, there is a slight chance of a wire bit coming off, and sticking down in the motor. Wasn't expecting the cliff hanger 😁
@@SamsTrains I much prefer the "Let's fix it" format over the "Salvage or Scrap". If it's going to take you a few minutes more, fine. You'll have a working loco then.
I received same loco and two coaches way back in 1964 for Christmas that year. I was 5yrs old. Still have it and is DCC fitted. Love running it around my layout brings back great memories. Unfortunately I don’t have any of the boxes. The major thing I did was to machine the wheel flanges so it would run on code 100 track. Rgds from Down Under.
I have one of these that I was given for Christmas in 1963; I always loved it and its two coaches. It is sitting in a box on the other side of the world at the moment, but I'm inspired to go and get it (and several other old other locos) and bring it back to life soon ! BTW were you using a brass wire brush for the brass parts and the commutator? A steel one might be too harsh and a scratched commutator is not good news. Looking forward to seeing the next episode :)
It looked like a steel wire brush to me. I yelled, "No, Sam!" when he began to use it on the commutator. This was aftet thinking he should've just used Brasso on the steam dome, too. Despite that small disagreement, I still love Sam's Trains and never miss a video. He's the best model train enthusiast on TH-cam.
So satisfying this kind of job. I just restored a 1952 Dublo 3-rail Silver King. The result is incredible. Runs like a dream and looks wonderful. I’m picking up 6 Dublo locos in the UK this summer. I’ve had them sent to my cousins in Kent because getting them to France since Brexit costs a fortune. Really looking forward to the restoration jobs to come ! 2 N2 0-6-2T’s, a 4MT 2-6-4T, a GWR Bristol Castle, and 2 Duchess of Atholl’s! Gonna be a lot of fun.
This Davey Crockett takes me back to my childhood. I had mine from new, and the smoke unit within it was amazing even by today's standards. Plumes of white smoke from that large chimney. Sadly, mine's long gone. Steveo
What fond memories this evokes! My very first Tri-ang loco! I'm surprised you haven't attempted doing a 3D print of the cylinder block, since it is obvious it has been glued on by a previous owner. This usually means the clips are broken or worn. I doubt that Hornby will ever do a 'Tri-ang Railways Remembered' version of this delightful model. I look forward to the end result!
Absolutely top notch Sam. I was 9 when this came out and always wanted this set. Shades of Casey Jones, The Virginian and Iron Horse. Sadly my Dad’s paltry salary wouldn’t allow this. Much prefer this to your Beat The Clock series. For me the new format is worth doing. Much more professional and on par with your excellent unbiased reviews. Please keep it up.
Thanks Sam you brought back a lot of memories for me👍. Mum and Dad got me this train for my 6th or 7th birthday was a long time ago can't quite remember which🤣. But was a favourite back then and great memories now. Thanks good onya mate👍🙂.
I do want myself a Davy Crockett or a Triang Stephensons Rocket just for the novelty of them, I see you got the tender with the pinpoint axles rather than the open axle boxes. I much prefer pinpoint as they reduce the drag open axleboxes have. You can actually get resin printed spares for Davy like the domes and cowcatchers, they look quite detailed and accurate
Very nice. I restored most of a Triang Princess about 8 months ago, although I'm yet to add new transfers for numbers and tender lettering (I'm doing it different to how it originally was, because I don't fancy doing lining).
Hi sam I hope you are well I love restoration videos on locomotives You never your you learn and see. Sorry am early Thank you for sharing your models and skill. Keep safe ARP
While I do love watching you scramble with a time limit for entertainment value, it is satisfying to watch you take your time and make the item look like new. Can't wait for Part two. Maybe this can be a series?
I've always thought the salvage or scrap series is fascinating. But at the same time, I also thought the time restrictions in the video is bit outrageous since restoration is all about taking time and make things as mint as possible. I’m very pleased that you had realized it needs changing and you’ve done it in this video!
Excellent idea, I already love it ! Parallel to "Salvage or Scrap", seeing from time to time a restoration work would be both entertaining and instructive. And revive vintage trains is a great move for the hobby anyway !
Excellent vid as always Sam - nice careful restoration of the old coupled with scratch build brand new bits - only down side was watching your 3D printer while mine's is in bits [total filament jam in hot end feed block - had to drill out a section] - oh hum. Looking forward to the touch up and rebuild vid.
Absolute love watching these types of videos. Very helpful tips for restoring my own locos! Every time I see the Triang valve gear I gotta chuckle. Fun useless fact, the triang crossheads were used on a majority of the narrow gauge engine props from Thomas The Tank Engines’ 4th season. Particularly noticed on Sir Handel & Skarloey. Have you considered getting into N scale? That would be very interesting to see compared to TT!
Can’t wait to see the next part of this restoration! I’ve done similar chassis rebuilds before, one fairly recent one being on a Triang 3MT, all gummed up with hair and oil, need to do some work on the gauging but besides that it’s running better than it has in years! I reckon you could also sell those axle bushes as well, given how replacements get harder to find and purging them from spares donors is a risky process I don’t see it being impossible for you to make some cash off those, I’d absolutely get my hands on some for my own Triang locos!
Way back in the '80's, when I was a surly teenager, I was out with my parents at a flea market/antique sale. There was a booth selling model trains - including new old stock Tri-ang Hornby items. (There were still batches of pre-1973 items kicking around back then, and I recognized the seller as the now retired, former owner of a local hobby store.) My mother offered to buy me a pristine, unopened Davy Crockett, but I was no longer interested in such things! I was a "serious" modeller at that point, and the Davy Crockett did not fit within my "vision". I like to think that I am less of an idiot these days. But I have my doubts! Fueling such doubts, I recently purchased a Tri-ang Hornby Trans Continental pulpwood card that turned out to be old new stock, never unboxed. I figured the never unboxed part after I struggled to open the box and pulled out the car to discover that there was some flash on the flange of one of the wheels. I carefully placed it back in the box, flash intact. And I recently purchase my first Wrenn locomotive, apicked up a near pristine 2MT tank in LMS livery. It's amazing. I have wanted one since I spotted one in a shop window in Stafford while we were in England visiting relatives.
Another great video Sam , and this one and the follow up will no doubt be of great help , as I have the same model, which has running issues, motor runs, but the wheels lock up on the track, after a short distance. Look forward to the next installment. I noticed you said the magnet was dodgy on yours, does this mean the motor can no longerspin? Also loved your recent video showing your homemade trains, really impressive. Cheers, jon
Good to see some time and care taken on the restoration. Forget the time limit this is how it should be done. You could take it further and make the light work with a small LED.
There are at least two different Triang axle bushes - S8397 (later version with a thicker top lip) and S5065. Both are still available. An El Cheapo Chinese Pinion Gear Puller (some with free international shipping) makes removing wheels easy - get two, cut the rear connection on the puller part off one of them for more flexibility and keep one as original.
Hi Sam, I was a bit worried when you cleaned the commutator with the wire wheel? One slip and the winding wires could have been ripped right off of the segments.. It is only a tiny blob of solder holding a very old and easily damaged wire? I think that the wire wheel may be a bit of "over kill" for this job? I think that a word of caution here would have been appropriate? But, So far , so good.... Enjoying the restoration.. Nice to see the parts (including the weight) dried gently and not "cooked" in a hurry too.. Good job.. Next, give the magnet a whack and onward we go? Great stuff. looking forward to the next episode..
It's not overkill! It's a very thorough way of cleaning, and I'm very well practised at it. I've done this hundreds of times, and have never slipped and damaged the solder or windings. Magnet is all re-charged and ready to go! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I'd recommend getting a wheel puller for restorations like this, there's a company here in America called PE Design and Manufacturing that make wheel pullers for all different sizes of model train
You ever considered getting a small, cheap ultrasonic cleaner Sam? The wife got one for her birthday and by God, after 10 minutes everything is pristine, what little grime is left is a literal wipe with a cloth.
it's very interesting trying to restore a locomotive Sam. I have a very unique triang 3f called the Silver smoke and I absolutely love it ;) Cheers Jasper & Willow
Everyone needs a small vise and a few metal dowels to bash out the axles. Rather good job on a sad loco. X04s are great motors. Good video, cheers, Sam :)
It's super cool seeing a more thorough restoration than the timed ones in Salvage or Scrap. I have a question about how you clean the loco body, is there any risk of damaging the original paint when you use a toothbrush, soap, and water? Also does that method still work on locos with metal bodies?
NWSL manufactures a wheel/gear puller that would be worth having, also check out their quartering device, they really come in handy. They also have a gear/axle alignment tool that makes getting gears back on the axle square.
Nice Job on the Davy Crockett locomotive and keep up the good work Sam. By the way, I have the new Hornby Dublo Gannet model and it is a fantastic model.
Can't wait for part 2, also if you ever do n scale, the bachmann thomas n gauge stuff has some amazing mechanisms, circlular bearings, cordless motors and flywheels on their engines so far, and the detail is way better than the ho versions and they don't burn out, and just to top it off. The slow speeds are just like the ho version
I'm also working on an old Triang loco (a Princess); seems mine has a different style chassis to yours - it's two flat pieces of steel, with weights between, held together with 3 or 4 screws. I ended up taking the gear wheel off the axle as well, as I intend to upgrade mine to use a new gear motor & bevel gear drive... but that might not be strong enough; if not, I can put the original worm gear back on. One thing to check when re-assembling; be very wary of the back-to-back: Mine was seriously under-gauge (13.8mm or thereabouts) so it tripped over every Peco point I have! I'm planning on fixing mine with new axles made in a lathe (I'm also going to add tyres/flanges to the middle wheels & reduce the flanges on the other drivers); but I figure you could adjust yours with judicious adjustment of back flange of the insulator, so long as you don't have to go too far (the loco would then run off-centre!)
1:18 funny thing about that Sam. I actually 4 of these, I absolutely have no idea how I have that many of them, maybe I went to train show when I was young. I really don't know Cheers Jasper & Willow
From the looks of it these locomotives must be very common to find broken because I have actually seen someone else restore one of these Davy Crockett locomotives recently, since you were asking on the last video I’m happy to report that my new class 37 and class 91 which I purchased recently are excellent models.
The entertainment with the scrapman is of course epic but this is much better for the loco of course. Just a few thoughts / tips Sam if we may. For cleaning the commutator with a dremel hopefully at least a copper wired brush was used and in heavens sake NO wired metal (??) Copper being softer one could argue that it merely polishes softly in a jiffy but it also creates a surface that will gunk up the motor back in no time going back to square one... Metal on the other hand is very aggressive micro scratching destroying the surface. Why not just simply avoid all that by..., isopropanol..., as trivially commonly used by proficient model train communities. Takes more time but is much more gentle and definitely doesn't create any micro scratches. Using a dremel on a commutator immediately destroys your credibility at proficient train modellers... you don't want that. For paint stripping of metal, have you considered the quick action Polystrippa? Gloves are needed though and to be placed in a closed glass bowl outside (not plastic). It usually strips in a jiffy and sometimes a few stubborn flakes will remain but those can be easily removed by a dental pick (can be found on ebay). Acetone is of course another quick action option or paint thinners best done outside as well and also in an enclosed glass bowl. All these liquids can be reused over and over but not to be used on plastics as they melt them. Anyway, curious how she will look fully restored. Original mints with coaches go for over 400 US$ on ebay. Cheerio.
Hello Sam, thx for the video. In this video i see you holding small parts with a pare of pliers. have you considered a handheld jewelers vice for that?
This is a model of a standardized heavy Mogul type built in quantity for the U.S. military during the civil war. They were very highly regarded and lasted for many years working on lines in Virginia, Maryland and West Virginia. Heavy is naturally a relative term. In the 1862-5 period they were considered heavy.
It sounds weird, but a good, and gentle remover of paint... Is car brake fluid. TH-camr Toy Polloi has used it successfully many times. And the good thing about it, is that you can use the same stuff over and over again.
Invest in a wheel puller, its better that hammering the wheels off. Also, anyone reading this. DO NOT use a soldering iron to remove plastic parts. The molten plastic is noxious and it will ruin your iron tip
It’s really nice to see restorations at a slower pace. It’s like something that we can all follow along with if we have our own models too!
That's good to hear - glad you enjoyed! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I was thinking the same thing
Absolutely.
Yep, like others I much prefer to see restoration at this slower pace Sam. (You’re reminding me of “Marty’s Matchbox Makeovers”).
More details are covered !
There's something satisfying about restoring old Tri-ang stuff. I've recently brought back to life an early 1960s Tri-ang Blue Pullman set. Been hanging around for years and finally it's up and running. Older than me and yet it runs a treat. The motivation was the endless troubles I've had with my Bachmann BP set; stripped out DCC and all the lighting so it now actually works. What a pain that was.
Great idea for a new type of video, Sam! Your struggles with The Scrap Man are quite entertaining, but your comments on the shortcomings of that format are spot on. I look forward to more like this one. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Agreed.
Interesting project! As someone who's done a couple of restorations, here are a few pointers I think might help:
1. For paint removal, use acetone on metal parts and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol on plastics.
2. Before repainting the cab take a photo of the text on the side, recreate it in Photoshop and print it out on decal paper for a fresh, new look
3. A buffing wheel and polish can really make any brass part shine like new.
4. Replace the motor magnet with a neodymium magnet for increased torque and pulling power.
Good luck with this project, I think it'll look great when done.
Thanks for the tips re paint removal! The text on the side of the cab is fine, so the cab will be painted with a mask over the text. The brass parts do shine like new with my method. Neo magnets are a no-go for these motors - they accelerate wear and damage motors - the remagnetiser I use is a much better option!
Thanks a lot for sharing,
Sam :)
Will alcohol remove paint ?
@@SamsTrains well said about neo magnets, best avoid and re-magnetize instead
@@RichardKuivila1947yes, I did it yesterday with some models.
I'm always astonished by the dimensional precision of 3D printing (i do that kind of stuff too).
Very satisfying to see this beautiful grandma of a loco coming back to life. The end is somewhat a cliffhanger for all of us who wants to see it running nicely and smoothly ;)
Can't wait for part 2. One thing I will recommend if you plan on doing more restorations in the future that involve removing wheels, and potentially gears, is investing in a NWSL gearpuller. I use it all the time to pull and put on wheels and gears on my locomotives. Just food for thought
That sounds cool - thanks very much for the recommendation!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
It makes me happy to see such an old and cherished locomotive be restored! Great video Sam!
I also agree that the slower pace is ideal, It actually provides a teaching method that can help us beginners to repair locos. I find that you provide a clear method of pulling apart a unit which is built on your knowledge (which I don't have :) so hope you can do a few more of these, maybe on an 0-4-0 and a Class 8 :)
Much better without artificial time constraints. Thoroughly enjoyable to watch!
Thrilled you’re doing this series Sam! I love Salvage or Scrap but always wished you had the time to make the locos look as good as possible. Really enjoyed watching the locomotive be completely dismantled; looking forward to part two and more installments!
I think it’d also be neat to make minor improvements as you see fit like adding headlamp LEDs, adding some cab detail or crew, glazing, etc.
Awesome video Sam's trains at first I thought that this was a salvage or scrap episode and also it is beaus basis
Thank you!! Nope not Salvage or Scrap this time :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains you're welcome 😊 buddy 😊
Huzzah! I've been hoping you'd do a full restore on something. It's so much more satisfying watching you finish a project fully! :D
I can't wait for part two! Love that cowcatcher, btw!
Thank you!! Yeah super happy with the cow catcher :D
I enjoyed this Sam, please do more!
I loved this slow in depth restoration Sam, loveley to watch and very interesting.
I dont watch your channel often (mostly just the reviews as you have the most thorough reviews on certain locos that dont just consist if “it looks good, runs good, so its good.”) and I especially dont watch a lot of the stuff that isnt reviews as it seems a bit campy (for entertaining the audience of course) but this video was quite soothing. I do think it benefits from the lack of the time limit and more careful process as it feels more relaxed and subsequently gives you a good look at the locos innards which is quite useful for many.
Yes this is better than the rush job. Can see how much you know and experience. Well done. Part two will be awesome. 🎉🎉🎉
Happy 85th anniversary of Mallard's record run! :)
Wow! Quite a historic day! :O
😮 Oh I'd forgotten about that. Really 10 years on from The Great Gathering?
I completely forgot. Thanks for reminding me.
And a by 2030 that record will be broken.
@@retr0bits545 I’d hope not.
Another vote for this format as opposed to the timed ones. A few notes. Try buffing the brass pieces with some buffing compound and a felt wheel on your motor tool. A lot of "bit kits" have this included. Also may want to use a nylon wheel as opposed to a wire one when working near the motor. Although the magnets aren't good on this one, there is a slight chance of a wire bit coming off, and sticking down in the motor.
Wasn't expecting the cliff hanger 😁
very nice video, looking forward to part 2! And would be fun to see more videos like this also :)
Thank you! I'd definitely love to do this again! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I much prefer the "Let's fix it" format over the "Salvage or Scrap". If it's going to take you a few minutes more, fine. You'll have a working loco then.
I received same loco and two coaches way back in 1964 for Christmas that year. I was 5yrs old. Still have it and is DCC fitted. Love running it around my layout brings back great memories. Unfortunately I don’t have any of the boxes. The major thing I did was to machine the wheel flanges so it would run on code 100 track. Rgds from Down Under.
I have one of these that I was given for Christmas in 1963; I always loved it and its two coaches. It is sitting in a box on the other side of the world at the moment, but I'm inspired to go and get it (and several other old other locos) and bring it back to life soon ! BTW were you using a brass wire brush for the brass parts and the commutator? A steel one might be too harsh and a scratched commutator is not good news. Looking forward to seeing the next episode :)
It looked like a steel wire brush to me. I yelled, "No, Sam!" when he began to use it on the commutator. This was aftet thinking he should've just used Brasso on the steam dome, too. Despite that small disagreement, I still love Sam's Trains and never miss a video. He's the best model train enthusiast on TH-cam.
So satisfying this kind of job. I just restored a 1952 Dublo 3-rail Silver King. The result is incredible. Runs like a dream and looks wonderful. I’m picking up 6 Dublo locos in the UK this summer. I’ve had them sent to my cousins in Kent because getting them to France since Brexit costs a fortune. Really looking forward to the restoration jobs to come ! 2 N2 0-6-2T’s, a 4MT 2-6-4T, a GWR Bristol Castle, and 2 Duchess of Atholl’s! Gonna be a lot of fun.
This Davey Crockett takes me back to my childhood. I had mine from new, and the smoke unit within it was amazing even by today's standards. Plumes of white smoke from that large chimney. Sadly, mine's long gone. Steveo
What fond memories this evokes! My very first Tri-ang loco! I'm surprised you haven't attempted doing a 3D print of the cylinder block, since it is obvious it has been glued on by a previous owner. This usually means the clips are broken or worn. I doubt that Hornby will ever do a 'Tri-ang Railways Remembered' version of this delightful model. I look forward to the end result!
Now THIS is a video I've been hoping for! A full on restoration without the challenges of the S.O.S series
It is really good to see a restoration done in the time that is actually required rather than to a sometimes questionably short period.
Very nice Sam. I love salvage or scrap but always wanted to see what you could do with a full restoration
This was a great video, much much better than the salvage or scrap. It actually helps us see what needs to be done. More please.
Nice new feature sam looking forward to part two, hope to see more of this 👍
I cant wait for part two its so satisfying you should salvaged all of the scrapped locos
Thank you so much - hope you enjoy part 2 when it comes :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I really enjoyed this video. I hope you do more of these detailed rebuild/refurbish videos.
Absolutely top notch Sam. I was 9 when this came out and always wanted this set. Shades of Casey Jones, The Virginian and Iron Horse. Sadly my Dad’s paltry salary wouldn’t allow this. Much prefer this to your Beat The Clock series. For me the new format is worth doing. Much more professional and on par with your excellent unbiased reviews. Please keep it up.
Great vid Sam.
Super looking forward to part 2.
Regards, Jas.
VK4FJGS
Rocky Qld.
Yes, Yes NO time limits. I learn MORE from you !
See how to DO things, what to use, see hoe things are DONE ! NO MORE secrets on Sam's trains.
It's so nice to see restoration video. I also like your repair videos can't wait for the 2nd part of restoration.
That's a lot of dedication dude
haha thank you! :D
Thanks Sam you brought back a lot of memories for me👍. Mum and Dad got me this train for my 6th or 7th birthday was a long time ago can't quite remember which🤣. But was a favourite back then and great memories now. Thanks good onya mate👍🙂.
Love your enthusiasm for all things trains! Another good watch.👏😊
Thank you so much David! :D
Nice one Sam,I really enjoyed watching. I can't wait for part 2. Thanks.
Nice job I sure enjoy designing stuff like that on the 3d printer !
Fantastic video, really enjoy these restorations!
That's lovely to hear - glad you liked this one :D
I can't wait to see part 2 Sam. I wonder whats going to happen next, we'll just have to wait and see.
Cheers Jasper & Willow
Thank you!! Hope you enjoy the next part :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Good job Sam. I have a couple of the Davy Crockett coaches as they are almost identical to the Railway Children coach, which is why I bought them.
Nice to see something new and different cant wait for part two, well done Sam.
Looking forward to part two. Nice work so far 👌
Brilliant Project
Great video, Sam. Have you ever thought about getting a small ultrasonic cleaner? That will work great for degreasing and cleaning parts
Good Idea ! They make "good enough" ones from China-ah.
I do want myself a Davy Crockett or a Triang Stephensons Rocket just for the novelty of them, I see you got the tender with the pinpoint axles rather than the open axle boxes. I much prefer pinpoint as they reduce the drag open axleboxes have.
You can actually get resin printed spares for Davy like the domes and cowcatchers, they look quite detailed and accurate
You’re great at this stuff Sam.
Very nice. I restored most of a Triang Princess about 8 months ago, although I'm yet to add new transfers for numbers and tender lettering (I'm doing it different to how it originally was, because I don't fancy doing lining).
Wow Sam this was amazing!
Hi sam
I hope you are well
I love restoration videos on locomotives
You never your you learn and see.
Sorry am early
Thank you for sharing your models and skill.
Keep safe ARP
Thanks a lot Adi - yeah I love doing these ones too! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
While I do love watching you scramble with a time limit for entertainment value, it is satisfying to watch you take your time and make the item look like new. Can't wait for Part two.
Maybe this can be a series?
Thank you! I think the two approaches are very different, and I'm happy to do a bit of both! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I've always thought the salvage or scrap series is fascinating. But at the same time, I also thought the time restrictions in the video is bit outrageous since restoration is all about taking time and make things as mint as possible. I’m very pleased that you had realized it needs changing and you’ve done it in this video!
Very satisfying, cant wait to see more :)
Excellent idea, I already love it ! Parallel to "Salvage or Scrap", seeing from time to time a restoration work would be both entertaining and instructive. And revive vintage trains is a great move for the hobby anyway !
Hi Sam, Great idea, coming along fine, (wish I had a 3D printer) can't wait for part 2, All the best Brian 😃
I appreciate the slow restoration so much more than the hasty and unnecessary Scrapheap Challenge. Thank you.
Excellent format Sam. Enjoy the more chilled pace. Before reassembling (if its not too late) might it be worth remagnetising the magnet?
Excellent vid as always Sam - nice careful restoration of the old coupled with scratch build brand new bits - only down side was watching your 3D printer while mine's is in bits [total filament jam in hot end feed block - had to drill out a section] - oh hum.
Looking forward to the touch up and rebuild vid.
Absolute love watching these types of videos. Very helpful tips for restoring my own locos! Every time I see the Triang valve gear I gotta chuckle. Fun useless fact, the triang crossheads were used on a majority of the narrow gauge engine props from Thomas The Tank Engines’ 4th season. Particularly noticed on Sir Handel & Skarloey.
Have you considered getting into N scale? That would be very interesting to see compared to TT!
Can’t wait to see the next part of this restoration! I’ve done similar chassis rebuilds before, one fairly recent one being on a Triang 3MT, all gummed up with hair and oil, need to do some work on the gauging but besides that it’s running better than it has in years! I reckon you could also sell those axle bushes as well, given how replacements get harder to find and purging them from spares donors is a risky process I don’t see it being impossible for you to make some cash off those, I’d absolutely get my hands on some for my own Triang locos!
Way back in the '80's, when I was a surly teenager, I was out with my parents at a flea market/antique sale. There was a booth selling model trains - including new old stock Tri-ang Hornby items. (There were still batches of pre-1973 items kicking around back then, and I recognized the seller as the now retired, former owner of a local hobby store.) My mother offered to buy me a pristine, unopened Davy Crockett, but I was no longer interested in such things! I was a "serious" modeller at that point, and the Davy Crockett did not fit within my "vision".
I like to think that I am less of an idiot these days. But I have my doubts!
Fueling such doubts, I recently purchased a Tri-ang Hornby Trans Continental pulpwood card that turned out to be old new stock, never unboxed. I figured the never unboxed part after I struggled to open the box and pulled out the car to discover that there was some flash on the flange of one of the wheels. I carefully placed it back in the box, flash intact.
And I recently purchase my first Wrenn locomotive, apicked up a near pristine 2MT tank in LMS livery. It's amazing. I have wanted one since I spotted one in a shop window in Stafford while we were in England visiting relatives.
Another great video Sam , and this one and the follow up will no doubt be of great help , as I have the same model, which has running issues, motor runs, but the wheels lock up on the track, after a short distance. Look forward to the next installment. I noticed you said the magnet was dodgy on yours, does this mean the motor can no longerspin? Also loved your recent video showing your homemade trains, really impressive. Cheers, jon
Good to see some time and care taken on the restoration. Forget the time limit this is how it should be done. You could take it further and make the light work with a small LED.
There are at least two different Triang axle bushes - S8397 (later version with a thicker top lip) and S5065. Both are still available.
An El Cheapo Chinese Pinion Gear Puller (some with free international shipping) makes removing wheels easy - get two, cut the rear connection on the puller part off one of them for more flexibility and keep one as original.
Big fan of this video!
I saw someone else do this with that same engine, and they needed another of that engine to do it
👍👍👍
Hi Sam, I was a bit worried when you cleaned the commutator with the wire wheel? One slip and the winding wires could have been ripped right off of the segments.. It is only a tiny blob of solder holding a very old and easily damaged wire? I think that the wire wheel may be a bit of "over kill" for this job?
I think that a word of caution here would have been appropriate?
But, So far , so good.... Enjoying the restoration.. Nice to see the parts (including the weight) dried gently and not "cooked" in a hurry too.. Good job.. Next, give the magnet a whack and onward we go?
Great stuff. looking forward to the next episode..
It's not overkill! It's a very thorough way of cleaning, and I'm very well practised at it. I've done this hundreds of times, and have never slipped and damaged the solder or windings. Magnet is all re-charged and ready to go! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Well done great video so interesting and exciting to watch.
Thank you so much - I'm glad!! :D
Have you tried ultrasonic cleaning before? Can't remember seeing that.
Yes I do have a cleaner - I prefer to clean as I have here though, as it's always more thorough!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I'd recommend getting a wheel puller for restorations like this, there's a company here in America called PE Design and Manufacturing that make wheel pullers for all different sizes of model train
You ever considered getting a small, cheap ultrasonic cleaner Sam? The wife got one for her birthday and by God, after 10 minutes everything is pristine, what little grime is left is a literal wipe with a cloth.
it's very interesting trying to restore a locomotive Sam. I have a very unique triang 3f called the Silver smoke and I absolutely love it ;)
Cheers Jasper & Willow
Ahh that's awesome - is that a custom job then?? :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Everyone needs a small vise and a few metal dowels to bash out the axles.
Rather good job on a sad loco.
X04s are great motors.
Good video, cheers, Sam :)
The great thing about the chassis is that it is common to the Triang 2-6-2 tank and the generic 0-6-0, common motor, wheels and gear.
It's super cool seeing a more thorough restoration than the timed ones in Salvage or Scrap. I have a question about how you clean the loco body, is there any risk of damaging the original paint when you use a toothbrush, soap, and water? Also does that method still work on locos with metal bodies?
NWSL manufactures a wheel/gear puller that would be worth having, also check out their quartering device, they really come in handy. They also have a gear/axle alignment tool that makes getting gears back on the axle square.
Sam now we know where them triang motors are,you've got them,lol
Nice Job on the Davy Crockett locomotive and keep up the good work Sam. By the way, I have the new Hornby Dublo Gannet model and it is a fantastic model.
Thank you!! Ahh lovely - glad to hear it's so good! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Can't wait for part 2, also if you ever do n scale, the bachmann thomas n gauge stuff has some amazing mechanisms, circlular bearings, cordless motors and flywheels on their engines so far, and the detail is way better than the ho versions and they don't burn out, and just to top it off. The slow speeds are just like the ho version
Ahh fascinating - I would love to see those for sure! :D
Very interesting video today Sam I think you should do more videos like this really enjoyed it
Thank you so much James, I will consider doing this again! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
So amazing
Lovely job Sam! What software are you using for the design?
Cool video thanks lee
Love this style of video. Don’t get me wrong I love SoS; however, this style is good to see a Loco get some proper attention.
I'm also working on an old Triang loco (a Princess); seems mine has a different style chassis to yours - it's two flat pieces of steel, with weights between, held together with 3 or 4 screws. I ended up taking the gear wheel off the axle as well, as I intend to upgrade mine to use a new gear motor & bevel gear drive... but that might not be strong enough; if not, I can put the original worm gear back on. One thing to check when re-assembling; be very wary of the back-to-back: Mine was seriously under-gauge (13.8mm or thereabouts) so it tripped over every Peco point I have! I'm planning on fixing mine with new axles made in a lathe (I'm also going to add tyres/flanges to the middle wheels & reduce the flanges on the other drivers); but I figure you could adjust yours with judicious adjustment of back flange of the insulator, so long as you don't have to go too far (the loco would then run off-centre!)
1:18 funny thing about that Sam. I actually 4 of these, I absolutely have no idea how I have that many of them, maybe I went to train show when I was young. I really don't know
Cheers Jasper & Willow
hahaha how did you manage to get 4?!?
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Yay! Another episode!
Yes! :D
From the looks of it these locomotives must be very common to find broken because I have actually seen someone else restore one of these Davy Crockett locomotives recently, since you were asking on the last video I’m happy to report that my new class 37 and class 91 which I purchased recently are excellent models.
Yes more common to find broken, even rarer in perfect shape!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Good one!✅
The entertainment with the scrapman is of course epic but this is much better for the loco of course.
Just a few thoughts / tips Sam if we may. For cleaning the commutator with a dremel hopefully at least a copper wired brush was used and in heavens sake NO wired metal (??) Copper being softer one could argue that it merely polishes softly in a jiffy but it also creates a surface that will gunk up the motor back in no time going back to square one... Metal on the other hand is very aggressive micro scratching destroying the surface. Why not just simply avoid all that by..., isopropanol..., as trivially commonly used by proficient model train communities. Takes more time but is much more gentle and definitely doesn't create any micro scratches. Using a dremel on a commutator immediately destroys your credibility at proficient train modellers... you don't want that.
For paint stripping of metal, have you considered the quick action Polystrippa? Gloves are needed though and to be placed in a closed glass bowl outside (not plastic). It usually strips in a jiffy and sometimes a few stubborn flakes will remain but those can be easily removed by a dental pick (can be found on ebay). Acetone is of course another quick action option or paint thinners best done outside as well and also in an enclosed glass bowl. All these liquids can be reused over and over but not to be used on plastics as they melt them. Anyway, curious how she will look fully restored. Original mints with coaches go for over 400 US$ on ebay. Cheerio.
Hello Sam, thx for the video. In this video i see you holding small parts with a pare of pliers. have you considered a handheld jewelers vice for that?
They used this model in some scenes of the episode ‘lone handed joe ‘(joe90) ,very nice 😊
This is a model of a standardized heavy Mogul type built in quantity for the U.S. military during the civil war. They were very highly regarded and lasted for many years working on lines in Virginia, Maryland and West Virginia. Heavy is naturally a relative term. In the 1862-5 period they were considered heavy.
Congratulations on getting one without a broken cab roof.
Screw time limits! They are the bane of my existence!
It sounds weird, but a good, and gentle remover of paint... Is car brake fluid. TH-camr Toy Polloi has used it successfully many times. And the good thing about it, is that you can use the same stuff over and over again.
Invest in a wheel puller, its better that hammering the wheels off. Also, anyone reading this. DO NOT use a soldering iron to remove plastic parts. The molten plastic is noxious and it will ruin your iron tip