I wonder whether this job might be done faster and easier with a slide hammer? Various inner diameter sizes are used on motorcycles to replace the fork seals. Could a similar method be employed here? Provided that the ID of the hammer was the same as the prop shaft and you had sufficient clearance behind the anode, using a hammer would apply the force directly along the length of the shaft because the hammer would slide on the shaft, the principal is the same - isn't it? A hammer would also be much easier to store securely taking up much less valuable space until it was needed again...
Hi, I have heard of people using a slide hammer but most use a method similar to the tool we made. The job is similar in some ways but a propeller shaft and couplings are not designed for lengthwise impacts where motorcycle forks are. Removing the old bearing using the tool took about five minutes, most of which was getting the alignment right. The video is just about what we did and offered as a possible solution to a common problem.
@@iankfr Thanks for the reply. The lengthwise impacts should not affect the shaft providing that it isn't seized in the bearing. I'm happy to bow to your experience and knowledge though. I was just trying to think outside the box. Tools will take over your life so anything that keeps them to the minimum has gotta be a 'good thing'! ;-))
If you happen to have a slide hammer them you could or should use it rather than make or buy a new tool. I don't have access to one so made up the tool.
@@thetraveller869 its not the shaft its the p bracket you would damage with a slide hammer - dont ever hit the p bracket with anything unless you want an expensive repair
@@iankfr Thanks. 2 questions: 1. Why is the new bearing pusher disc plywood, is it to protect the bearing? I'd have thought the rear plate would have worked without the disc. 2. Do you dimple the new bearing for the grub screw, if so how?
There is a clearance hole to allow the old bearing to pass through it. In fact putting the new bearing was done without the tool as it was a good fit. On my boat the two grub screws had slightly pointed ends so it is just a matter of tightening up enough to lock but not damage the bearing.
@@iankfr Thanks, I forgot about the clearance hole! I suppose if the new bearing was tight the plywood might crush. I could cut and inch off the old bearing and use that?
Thank you! I made a tool myself and it worked to remove the prop and will be using to do the cutlass bearing next.
Glad to have been of assistance 😁😁😁
I wonder whether this job might be done faster and easier with a slide hammer? Various inner diameter sizes are used on motorcycles to replace the fork seals. Could a similar method be employed here? Provided that the ID of the hammer was the same as the prop shaft and you had sufficient clearance behind the anode, using a hammer would apply the force directly along the length of the shaft because the hammer would slide on the shaft, the principal is the same - isn't it?
A hammer would also be much easier to store securely taking up much less valuable space until it was needed again...
Hi, I have heard of people using a slide hammer but most use a method similar to the tool we made. The job is similar in some ways but a propeller shaft and couplings are not designed for lengthwise impacts where motorcycle forks are. Removing the old bearing using the tool took about five minutes, most of which was getting the alignment right. The video is just about what we did and offered as a possible solution to a common problem.
@@iankfr Thanks for the reply. The lengthwise impacts should not affect the shaft providing that it isn't seized in the bearing. I'm happy to bow to your experience and knowledge though. I was just trying to think outside the box. Tools will take over your life so anything that keeps them to the minimum has gotta be a 'good thing'! ;-))
If you happen to have a slide hammer them you could or should use it rather than make or buy a new tool. I don't have access to one so made up the tool.
@@thetraveller869 its not the shaft its the p bracket you would damage with a slide hammer - dont ever hit the p bracket with anything unless you want an expensive repair
Great video thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
Excellent. Very informative, many thanks.
Glad you found it useful.
@@iankfr Thanks. 2 questions:
1. Why is the new bearing pusher disc plywood, is it to protect the bearing? I'd have thought the rear plate would have worked without the disc.
2. Do you dimple the new bearing for the grub screw, if so how?
There is a clearance hole to allow the old bearing to pass through it. In fact putting the new bearing was done without the tool as it was a good fit. On my boat the two grub screws had slightly pointed ends so it is just a matter of tightening up enough to lock but not damage the bearing.
@@iankfr Thanks, I forgot about the clearance hole! I suppose if the new bearing was tight the plywood might crush. I could cut and inch off the old bearing and use that?
My feeling is that if the plywood started crushing you have the wrong replacement.😉😉