You demonstrate admirably the necessity of not being a yahoo while running what is and should be a precise instrument. Having care and a thoughtful approach is the reason this mill will last you for years. I have a 126 coming this week. I’m very excited. Thanks for the excellent review. Cheers brother.
I purchased the HN122 mill earlier this year largely based on your excellent videos. I could not be happier with the mill. I have seen in other videos where people have commented on the screw log holder and how it goes to deep into the wood. I added a self locking nut onto the threaded shaft that allows me to adjust how deep the point goes in.
Thanks for the followup. Too rarely do you get to see the "lessons learned." Three things, 1 - your videos are great and very informative, 2 - your sawmill shed is beautiful, and 3 - I'm jealous that you can mill in a t-shirt right now.
70F in December doesn't seem right to me! Should be 35-45F if we were getting normal weather. Here I am sweating in short sleeves when instead I should be comfortable wearing long johns!
I have a HM 122 coming soon, can wait. Thanks for your video. One thing I have seen in my search for a mill is how to properly cut logs. Ninety percent of the folks online do this wrong. I did see the video here on youtube the guy owns or runs the best rated lumber I believe in Alabama but he goes into detail I recommend you all look for it. Anyone can cut boards but if there not cut properly according to the ring pattern the lumber will be inferior.. Good Luck milling folk.
I’ve watched lots of videos on this mill and have to say this is one of the very best ones. Thanks for all the info. After researching all winter, we will be ordering an hm122 bushlander XL next week. Just got there bushlander trailer in last week and we’re super happy with it!
Thanks for yet another great video. I have a lot of appreciation for seeing the details that you have added to your process to smooth out the work flow and I have adopted many of them. Maintenance checks, pre-flights, custom measuring tapes, log handling, log positioning, cleaning & use of the toe-board. Keep up the good work, it's appreciated.
Howdy Sir- I have watched several of your other videos and I want to thank you for sharing your thoughts on the mill. I just got the HM126 and have it assembled with an extension that I built. Your videos are very comprehensive and well done. Thank you for the time you have spent helping others. Hope the New Year brings you blessings and happiness. God bless
I have a quote from Woodland in my inbox right now and been watching a lot of videos getting closer to pulling the trigger. I really appreciate you posting this. Thanks for talking about the power too as that's my biggest concern, but nothing here except red fir and pine. Jeez, I guess I need to budget for a leaf blower too.
Every video of yours makes me feel a lot better about purchasing this mill as opposed to a mizer $$$. I look forward to purchasing this mill for our Vermont land.
I like the measuring setup you did ive been thinking about something like that to simplify it for myself and my kids. I have the Lucas swing Blade sawmill but just recently ordered the new Woodland 130 max because of how very safe the band saws are compared to the circular saws. I know there is no way the band saw will compare to my other mill for bf per hr but its mostly just for the kids to learn and they are excited
Very nice review. My 122 is sitting in the shed, unused since getting it and assembling late in the fall of last year just before the snow came. This mill, and other Woodland Mills products, are a good example of quality products being produced in China where the design, engineering and quality control are being controlled by a domestic company based in North America, in this case, Canada. Added to that, the fact that customer and technical support are here is a tremendous advantage. I know I can rely on the people at Woodland Mills to provide the support we need without the hassles of dealing with a foreign company.
Great review and saw mill one thing that amazes me is how fast you set the thickness of lumber can you go over how you are able to do it and how it works
Really just need to follow the ruler scales on the mil and keep dropping the blade by an increment on every pass. You decide how thick you want to make the lumber and then just chase the corresponding marks on the ruler scale. Little to no thinking is required so it's very quick. I have made other videos on using the rulers and making custom scales.
You're very instructive with your videos and I am very grateful you're the reason I bought the hm122 however I don't know if this will be helpful but it is also something to think about with that final board cut I have been able to completely eliminate the screw clamp are you saying squeeze clamps from under the bunk rail with a quarter inch rise above the bunk up against the board holding it taught to the log stops what do you think about this it has eliminated a lot of stress and worry about cutting into the screw clamp thank you again for your videos
GREAT VIDEO. I HAVE THE HM122 MILL AND I LOVE IT PERIOD I HAVE ONLY USED IT ONCE .ITS AT MY SON IN LAWS IN NORTHERN ALBERTA AND I CANT WAIT TO GET BACK UP THERE WEATHER IS A BIG PROBLEM IT WONT STOP SNOWING LOL
I havent bought my mill yet so I'm Paying close attention on what you are saying and telling. I never even considered any mills or anything else 'made in china' until now ! but because of the prices My stoungly considering a Woodland mill just like you got now! One question if you built a mill shelter now would you change anything? reguards and God Bless !! Kenny " an American Living in the Philippines, Goin to saw some lumber here !!
Again... thanks for your insights from experience. I bought the 7hp mill yet to set up (snow) ... very happily looking forward to it all. Keep up the videos... do you have the blades resharpened or buy new?
Being where most of the trees are hardwood I bought the recommended 3/4", Do you use booth types or stick to just the one? Again thanks for your knowledge. @@Lumber_Jack
Thank you for an honest observation Iam think about getting one but don't really want to spend 8000 for one that price you mentioned is very reasonabie again thanks Jerry HRON from Deer River Mn. was 30 below this morning
Open the needle valve all the way After you. add a brass shutoff in the tubing and control the drip with that . 1/4 inch. Amazon sells them 2for $8. I put one in the fuel line of my Kawasaki mule, so when you work on the carb you can shut off the gas. My friend MR. Mechanic PIA who fixes my stuff for free insisted on it. close the tube. 80 hours use. How many board ft have u sawed.?
First and foremost, excellent videos with informative content thanks to your content many questions can be answers prior to purchase, set up, operation, etc. Looking at purchasing a mill and plan on mounting it on a home-built trailer. While everything is in the early design stages wondering on the height of your setup? I remember you stating in one of your videos 29"? If so, what top point are you referencing? I'm thinking that's from ground elevation to top of the log bunks. Excited to get designing and building and furthermore sawing some lumber! Again, thanks for all your informative content.
Yes, 29" is the ballpark height to the bunks. Really, I was trying to mimic trailer-mounted mills I have used, which always made for a comfortable working mill bed height. Many people put non-rolling mills down on the ground and it ends up making for a lot of bending over and kneeling, unlike the trailers. So if you go with typical trailer wheels, springs, etc, you'll probably be in the comfortable ballpark. Of course you can make it exactly the way you want, so tweak to your own tastes.
I can cut up to 17' long and haven't seen the need for anything longer than 16' lumber (this goes back several decades using other mills too). But other people might need to cut longer stuff. Fortunately, with this type of mill, you can add as many track sections as you want, at any time in the future, so it's not a permanent decision.
Great follow up video, thanks. Do you always clean and take the tention off every time you finish? What do you place on the blade at the end? Thanks again, verry informative !
Yes, it's very important to take tension off the blade when the mill is not in use, to prevent flat spots on the belts that would cause vibration and tracking problems. It's also a lot of load (over 1,000 pounds) on the mill frame when tensioned. Cleaning sawdust out of the cabinet is also important. I do it at the end of every day. Next time the mill is used, a clean cabinet makes it easier to re-tension, check tracking, and do a pre-flight check of belts, bearings, and other wear items.
Hey Lumber Jack, thanks for the review. What part of the State are you in? I’m near Richmond. Love Virginia overall, wish the humidity would go away but that ain’t happening, seems to be getting worse, lol. Did you compare many other mills, if so, what made you pick this one? Thanks
We're down in Lanexa, haven't stopped sweating since I moved to this area 30+ years ago from New England! I was all set to buy Woodmizer or Norwood, in fact I had some models picked out in early 2020 for planned purchase in fall 2020. But after Covid hit, both of those companies were on indefinite backorder, had no clue about inventory or delivery estimates, and their customer service really suffered, so they lost my business. I contacted Woodland Mills and they were super nice, very helpful, and they were able to provide me with inventory estimates and actual shipping dates. So I went with them and it's been a great mill. Saved quite a bit of $$ too. I sawed on Woodmizers/Norwoods for many years and still like them, but couldn't be happier with Woodland Mills. Great value in a mill and their customer service is outstanding.
Great review, watched both the one a year ago and this one and I think I'm sold. I was originally thinking of the Range Road but from other videos I saw it's kind of flimsy and has issues. For a few grand more I can get this one and I think it will be worth it. Great to know they're Canadian too, did not realize. How realistic do you think it would be to convert to electric, using say, a 3hp (around 2kw) motor? My goal is to eventually run as much as I can on solar so that the energy is free. Especially with the gas prices. :o Almost 2 bucks a litre now.
They actually make electric models for the European market -- see: woodlandmills.eu/product/hm122-portable-sawmill/ They use a 4kW motor for the 122, and 5.5/7.5 kW for the larger mills. So it definitely seems doable. I am surprised they don't offer the option for US/Canada but maybe demand is lower due to our "formerly cheap" gas prices.
I run my home-made mill on a 5 horse (220 Volt) electric motor, no problems whatsoever. No clutch needed, either. However, no solar system will produce enough juice to run motors of that size.
Just found you and will be watching your original review. I noticed you have what looks like a toe board set up (red) on your mill that's not the Woodland Mills toe board. Perhaps you have talked about it on a previous video? If so would you mind responding with a link to that video. If not, could you talk about that so I can do something similar? Many thanks from the Pacific Northwest!
Surprisingly I have never seen the need for it. I think because I am religious about using sharp blades, I don't really run into issues with blade deflection or wandering.
Thank you for taking the time to honestly share your 1 year review with us. Just curious, do you wish you would have gotten the 130 max.? Thank you! From the 63 year old carpenter ☝
Remember, the extra width is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, you can mill a larger diameter, or less straight log. On the other hand, you are reaching farther each time you reposition the log. Get the 130 if you need it, don't if you don't. 🙂
The way I look at it, I don't want to muscle around a 30 inch log. A twenty inch is all I want to flip by myself. I prefer the 15 inch logs the most. As big as I can handle without risk of hurting myself, and able to get a lot of boards.
I have used them on other mills and found that they hurt productivity. Much faster to get the tractor in, both for loading logs and offloading lumber and scrap.
Thank you very much for these videos! You say you're getting "four to six hours out of a blade", and I notice you don't debark your logs before sawing. Watching these videos I'm getting the impression that you make about one cut every two minutes of running time, and that implies that you're making about 150 cuts with a blade; at a 5/8 ratio between boards and cuts that's about (roughly) 93 boards per blade. Is that about right? Debarking is obviously a lot of labour, but folk have advised me that bark is very hard on blades. Do you think that if you did debark you'd get more cuts out of your blades, and if so, by what ratio?
I just counted one of my stacks, and it was about 100 boards all done on one blade. Add in the squaring cuts and it's ballpark ~120-130 cuts per blade. Those were all 12' boards. That blade is still on the mill and cutting OK, but I do plan to change it before the next project. I do not debark, but I am religious about keeping logs clean between when the tree is felled and when they go onto the mill. My skidding method (shown in another video) and storage/transport methods all focus on keeping the logs clean. So really the only contamination is what's already embedded in the bark. I know some species and locations are worse than others, but here it doesn't seem to be a big problem for me.
@@Lumber_Jack Thank you, that's helpful. So I'm reckoning that I'll be spending about 31 pence per board on blade wear. Resharpening blades might lower that to about 25 pence. That and fuel are going to be pretty much the only consumable costs, I think? But you still have to think about amortising the capital cost.
For every person with a cheery experience with WM, there are others with unsafe saws. Mine arrived with the holes drilled on the wrong side of the track, meaning that the concave wheels run on a flat edge. WM deliberately shipped them that way. A shameful Canadian company.
You want the wheels to roll on the square edge, for several reasons: precision, lower friction, and less chance of getting fouled by sawdust. If you look carefully at the tracks, there is one side that has an unfinished "mill" edge. It is rounded but not precise or made to any radius or tolerance, it's just the way hot rolled angle iron comes out of the die at the mill. That is *not* the edge the wheels are meant to roll on. The other side of the sawmill track has a square edge that has been machined to precision. You can see cutting tool marks on it in fact. That is the edge the wheels are meant to roll on. The wheels will wear in as they roll on that edge and you will have a nice precise movement with lower friction and less chance for sawdust to build up. This has been discussed many times on the WM Facebook group. It seems to confuse a lot of people who are new to sawmills.
You demonstrate admirably the necessity of not being a yahoo while running what is and should be a precise instrument. Having care and a thoughtful approach is the reason this mill will last you for years. I have a 126 coming this week. I’m very excited. Thanks for the excellent review. Cheers brother.
I purchased the HN122 mill earlier this year largely based on your excellent videos. I could not be happier with the mill. I have seen in other videos where people have commented on the screw log holder and how it goes to deep into the wood. I added a self locking nut onto the threaded shaft that allows me to adjust how deep the point goes in.
That's a great idea.
Thanks for the followup. Too rarely do you get to see the "lessons learned." Three things, 1 - your videos are great and very informative, 2 - your sawmill shed is beautiful, and 3 - I'm jealous that you can mill in a t-shirt right now.
70F in December doesn't seem right to me! Should be 35-45F if we were getting normal weather. Here I am sweating in short sleeves when instead I should be comfortable wearing long johns!
Thanks I really enjoy your videos
I have a HM 122 coming soon, can wait. Thanks for your video. One thing I have seen in my search for a mill is how to properly cut logs. Ninety percent of the folks online do this wrong. I did see the video here on youtube the guy owns or runs the best rated lumber I believe in Alabama but he goes into detail I recommend you all look for it. Anyone can cut boards but if there not cut properly according to the ring pattern the lumber will be inferior.. Good Luck milling folk.
I’ve watched lots of videos on this mill and have to say this is one of the very best ones. Thanks for all the info. After researching all winter, we will be ordering an hm122 bushlander XL next week. Just got there bushlander trailer in last week and we’re super happy with it!
Thanks for yet another great video. I have a lot of appreciation for seeing the details that you have added to your process to smooth out the work flow and I have adopted many of them. Maintenance checks, pre-flights, custom measuring tapes, log handling, log positioning, cleaning & use of the toe-board. Keep up the good work, it's appreciated.
Thanks Clint!
Always enjoy your videos. You often have methods or "tricks" that I had not thought of. I have learned a lot.
Howdy Sir- I have watched several of your other videos and I want to thank you for sharing your thoughts on the mill. I just got the HM126 and have it assembled with an extension that I built. Your videos are very comprehensive and well done. Thank you for the time you have spent helping others. Hope the New Year brings you blessings and happiness. God bless
Thanks, same to you!
dude, you are so so safety minded!! great video
Watched both your woodland mill reviews. Thanks, great information.
I have a quote from Woodland in my inbox right now and been watching a lot of videos getting closer to pulling the trigger. I really appreciate you posting this. Thanks for talking about the power too as that's my biggest concern, but nothing here except red fir and pine. Jeez, I guess I need to budget for a leaf blower too.
Every video of yours makes me feel a lot better about purchasing this mill as opposed to a mizer $$$. I look forward to purchasing this mill for our Vermont land.
It's a great value for the money.
I like the measuring setup you did ive been thinking about something like that to simplify it for myself and my kids. I have the Lucas swing Blade sawmill but just recently ordered the new Woodland 130 max because of how very safe the band saws are compared to the circular saws. I know there is no way the band saw will compare to my other mill for bf per hr but its mostly just for the kids to learn and they are excited
Very nice review. My 122 is sitting in the shed, unused since getting it and assembling late in the fall of last year just before the snow came. This mill, and other Woodland Mills products, are a good example of quality products being produced in China where the design, engineering and quality control are being controlled by a domestic company based in North America, in this case, Canada. Added to that, the fact that customer and technical support are here is a tremendous advantage. I know I can rely on the people at Woodland Mills to provide the support we need without the hassles of dealing with a foreign company.
Just bought the same mill. Cant wait for it to get here!
I had the same problem with my cable lost rpm like you did have to keep an eye that. Thanks for the video
Great review and saw mill one thing that amazes me is how fast you set the thickness of lumber can you go over how you are able to do it and how it works
Really just need to follow the ruler scales on the mil and keep dropping the blade by an increment on every pass. You decide how thick you want to make the lumber and then just chase the corresponding marks on the ruler scale. Little to no thinking is required so it's very quick. I have made other videos on using the rulers and making custom scales.
You're very instructive with your videos and I am very grateful you're the reason I bought the hm122 however I don't know if this will be helpful but it is also something to think about with that final board cut I have been able to completely eliminate the screw clamp are you saying squeeze clamps from under the bunk rail with a quarter inch rise above the bunk up against the board holding it taught to the log stops what do you think about this it has eliminated a lot of stress and worry about cutting into the screw clamp thank you again for your videos
Nice shed for the mill!
GREAT VIDEO. I HAVE THE HM122 MILL AND I LOVE IT PERIOD I HAVE ONLY USED IT ONCE .ITS AT MY SON IN LAWS IN NORTHERN ALBERTA AND I CANT WAIT TO GET BACK UP THERE WEATHER IS A BIG PROBLEM IT WONT STOP SNOWING LOL
I would like that, I really prefer winter, but I imagine it would require some serious snow removal equipment if you want to keep sawing year round.
Thanks for this video i am buying a mill soon. i have been watching video's on the woodland mills thanks again have a great week
I havent bought my mill yet so I'm Paying close attention on what you are saying and telling. I never even considered any mills or anything else 'made in china' until now ! but because of the prices My stoungly considering a Woodland mill just like you got now! One question if you built a mill shelter now would you change anything? reguards and God Bless !! Kenny " an American Living in the Philippines, Goin to saw some lumber here !!
I wouldn't change a thing about the sawmill shed, which is unusual for me. Normally I think of improvements 5 minutes after a project is done.
Great tip about the magnetic rulers!
Again... thanks for your insights from experience. I bought the 7hp mill yet to set up (snow) ... very happily looking forward to it all. Keep up the videos... do you have the blades resharpened or buy new?
I bought blades until I had about 20 or so, then send 5-10 out at a time to be resharpened as they get dull. That way I always have blades on hand.
Being where most of the trees are hardwood I bought the recommended 3/4", Do you use booth types or stick to just the one? Again thanks for your knowledge. @@Lumber_Jack
Put something like a little piece of steel wool or fine screen like on screen doors over breather tube to keep bugs sawdust out of tank.
Thank you for an honest observation Iam think about getting one but don't really want to spend 8000 for one that price you mentioned is very reasonabie again thanks Jerry HRON from Deer River Mn. was 30 below this morning
Thank you for your videos the two reviews you did I have made up my mind what brand I am going to buy thank you
Did you mill the wood for that stand :). Great intro on the last video and this review. I'm sold on it.
do you have any plans for your mill shed. it looks perfect
Thanks. Excellent review!
Open the needle valve all the way After you. add a brass shutoff in the tubing and control the drip with that . 1/4 inch. Amazon sells them 2for $8. I put one in the fuel line of my Kawasaki mule, so when you work on the carb you can shut off the gas. My friend MR. Mechanic PIA who fixes my stuff for free insisted on it. close the tube. 80 hours use. How many board ft have u sawed.?
First and foremost, excellent videos with informative content thanks to your content many questions can be answers prior to purchase, set up, operation, etc. Looking at purchasing a mill and plan on mounting it on a home-built trailer. While everything is in the early design stages wondering on the height of your setup? I remember you stating in one of your videos 29"? If so, what top point are you referencing? I'm thinking that's from ground elevation to top of the log bunks. Excited to get designing and building and furthermore sawing some lumber! Again, thanks for all your informative content.
Yes, 29" is the ballpark height to the bunks. Really, I was trying to mimic trailer-mounted mills I have used, which always made for a comfortable working mill bed height. Many people put non-rolling mills down on the ground and it ends up making for a lot of bending over and kneeling, unlike the trailers. So if you go with typical trailer wheels, springs, etc, you'll probably be in the comfortable ballpark. Of course you can make it exactly the way you want, so tweak to your own tastes.
Got my 126 on order, already have an aftermarket tach/hobbs in hand that also has a temp gauge.. just going that extra mile.
Thats for your input and a very good review
Great information. Thank you for the video.
Thank you so much what a wonderful video and by the way I'm thinking about buying the exact same sawmill if they're not backordered
They are. I ordered one over a month ago and I'm still waiting.
Hi. Video much appreciated. One question: have you found at any point you would have liked additional track to cut longer boards? Thanks in advance.
I can cut up to 17' long and haven't seen the need for anything longer than 16' lumber (this goes back several decades using other mills too). But other people might need to cut longer stuff. Fortunately, with this type of mill, you can add as many track sections as you want, at any time in the future, so it's not a permanent decision.
Nice work man
Nice follow up. Thanks
Nice setup, and review
Great follow up video, thanks.
Do you always clean and take the tention off every time you finish?
What do you place on the blade at the end?
Thanks again, verry informative !
Yes, it's very important to take tension off the blade when the mill is not in use, to prevent flat spots on the belts that would cause vibration and tracking problems. It's also a lot of load (over 1,000 pounds) on the mill frame when tensioned.
Cleaning sawdust out of the cabinet is also important. I do it at the end of every day. Next time the mill is used, a clean cabinet makes it easier to re-tension, check tracking, and do a pre-flight check of belts, bearings, and other wear items.
Might be nice to use a funnel with a screen to fill the water tank. Sort of like no sawdust or dirt in the chainsaw oiler tank please.
SOLD ME,Ben looking,Best for the money thank you
With your track that high off the ground. How do you get the logs up there?
I see now
Tractor front loader with forks.
Hey Lumber Jack, thanks for the review. What part of the State are you in? I’m near Richmond. Love Virginia overall, wish the humidity would go away but that ain’t happening, seems to be getting worse, lol. Did you compare many other mills, if so, what made you pick this one? Thanks
We're down in Lanexa, haven't stopped sweating since I moved to this area 30+ years ago from New England! I was all set to buy Woodmizer or Norwood, in fact I had some models picked out in early 2020 for planned purchase in fall 2020. But after Covid hit, both of those companies were on indefinite backorder, had no clue about inventory or delivery estimates, and their customer service really suffered, so they lost my business. I contacted Woodland Mills and they were super nice, very helpful, and they were able to provide me with inventory estimates and actual shipping dates. So I went with them and it's been a great mill. Saved quite a bit of $$ too. I sawed on Woodmizers/Norwoods for many years and still like them, but couldn't be happier with Woodland Mills. Great value in a mill and their customer service is outstanding.
I'm from Oklahoma and never had a mill, I like this mill alot from what I've seen. Keep the videos coming. Is it easy to set up?
Pretty easy if you're good with tools/etc. The instructions are very detailed and walk you through the whole process.
Very helpful, thank you very much.
what is the dimension of you shed for housing sawmill?
I'm also interested in the demicions
💗💜💗 THANKS FOR SHARING 💜💗💜
Great review, watched both the one a year ago and this one and I think I'm sold. I was originally thinking of the Range Road but from other videos I saw it's kind of flimsy and has issues. For a few grand more I can get this one and I think it will be worth it. Great to know they're Canadian too, did not realize. How realistic do you think it would be to convert to electric, using say, a 3hp (around 2kw) motor? My goal is to eventually run as much as I can on solar so that the energy is free. Especially with the gas prices. :o Almost 2 bucks a litre now.
They actually make electric models for the European market -- see:
woodlandmills.eu/product/hm122-portable-sawmill/
They use a 4kW motor for the 122, and 5.5/7.5 kW for the larger mills. So it definitely seems doable. I am surprised they don't offer the option for US/Canada but maybe demand is lower due to our "formerly cheap" gas prices.
@@Lumber_Jack That's good to know, at least it gives me an idea the size of motor I'd need. But yeah it's too bad they don't offer it here too!
I run my home-made mill on a 5 horse (220 Volt) electric motor, no problems whatsoever. No clutch needed, either. However, no solar system will produce enough juice to run motors of that size.
Do you have extra bed extensions on your mill? What length can you cut?
Excellent Content
One 6' extension -- total bed length is about 19.5' and max log I can saw is about 17' long.
Just found you and will be watching your original review. I noticed you have what looks like a toe board set up (red) on your mill that's not the Woodland Mills toe board. Perhaps you have talked about it on a previous video? If so would you mind responding with a link to that video. If not, could you talk about that so I can do something similar? Many thanks from the Pacific Northwest!
You can see all sawmill videos here:
th-cam.com/play/PLvE7sxyMTaY_jXlKHHbOlw726-0GYAiC5.html
Great video… Thank you, sir
You’ve had your milk for a while now. Have you wished you had the adjustable blade guide? M
Surprisingly I have never seen the need for it. I think because I am religious about using sharp blades, I don't really run into issues with blade deflection or wandering.
I have a simalar mill with 14 hp and its great
Thank you for taking the time to honestly share your 1 year review with us.
Just curious, do you wish you would have gotten the 130 max.?
Thank you!
From the 63 year old carpenter ☝
Definitely no need for a 130 for me since I don't saw anything that wide, but I wouldn't mind having one!
Remember, the extra width is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, you can mill a larger diameter, or less straight log. On the other hand, you are reaching farther each time you reposition the log. Get the 130 if you need it, don't if you don't. 🙂
The way I look at it, I don't want to muscle around a 30 inch log. A twenty inch is all I want to flip by myself. I prefer the 15 inch logs the most. As big as I can handle without risk of hurting myself, and able to get a lot of boards.
Hi how many lumbers you saw before changing blades ?
Typically 4-6 hours of sawing between blade changes.
Thx for sharing
Thank you
What is your average fuel consumption for every hour?
Don't have an exact number but the mill sips fuel. I can go many days before needing to refill the tank.
You should build a log deck for your mill that way there is no chance of hitting anything with your tractor
I have used them on other mills and found that they hurt productivity. Much faster to get the tractor in, both for loading logs and offloading lumber and scrap.
do you only use the woodland mills blades?
I have tried Woodland blades (Lennox brand), Ripper 37 from Jerry's Resharp, and Cook's. All have been good so far.
@@Lumber_Jack good to know. my HM130MAX is supposed to ship out in 3 weeks. i have already order a box of the ripper37 blades.
Thank you very much for these videos!
You say you're getting "four to six hours out of a blade", and I notice you don't debark your logs before sawing. Watching these videos I'm getting the impression that you make about one cut every two minutes of running time, and that implies that you're making about 150 cuts with a blade; at a 5/8 ratio between boards and cuts that's about (roughly) 93 boards per blade. Is that about right?
Debarking is obviously a lot of labour, but folk have advised me that bark is very hard on blades. Do you think that if you did debark you'd get more cuts out of your blades, and if so, by what ratio?
I just counted one of my stacks, and it was about 100 boards all done on one blade. Add in the squaring cuts and it's ballpark ~120-130 cuts per blade. Those were all 12' boards. That blade is still on the mill and cutting OK, but I do plan to change it before the next project.
I do not debark, but I am religious about keeping logs clean between when the tree is felled and when they go onto the mill. My skidding method (shown in another video) and storage/transport methods all focus on keeping the logs clean. So really the only contamination is what's already embedded in the bark. I know some species and locations are worse than others, but here it doesn't seem to be a big problem for me.
@@Lumber_Jack Thank you, that's helpful. So I'm reckoning that I'll be spending about 31 pence per board on blade wear. Resharpening blades might lower that to about 25 pence. That and fuel are going to be pretty much the only consumable costs, I think? But you still have to think about amortising the capital cost.
@@simonbrooke4065 Belts, bearings, blade lubricant are some other consumable expenses.
I just bought a 126
#solidwork
Just like the old timers, they used random width what they could get
For every person with a cheery experience with WM, there are others with unsafe saws. Mine arrived with the holes drilled on the wrong side of the track, meaning that the concave wheels run on a flat edge. WM deliberately shipped them that way. A shameful Canadian company.
You want the wheels to roll on the square edge, for several reasons: precision, lower friction, and less chance of getting fouled by sawdust.
If you look carefully at the tracks, there is one side that has an unfinished "mill" edge. It is rounded but not precise or made to any radius or tolerance, it's just the way hot rolled angle iron comes out of the die at the mill. That is *not* the edge the wheels are meant to roll on.
The other side of the sawmill track has a square edge that has been machined to precision. You can see cutting tool marks on it in fact. That is the edge the wheels are meant to roll on. The wheels will wear in as they roll on that edge and you will have a nice precise movement with lower friction and less chance for sawdust to build up.
This has been discussed many times on the WM Facebook group. It seems to confuse a lot of people who are new to sawmills.
dont forget to save your blades, get a cheap metal detector for those random nails.... they will destroy a blade in no time