IKIER K1 Pro Max 70W Diode Laser Engraving and Cutting Machine Review | Auto-focus | Enclosure
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2024
- This is a review of the IKIER K1 Pro Max 70W laser engraving machine. At 70 watts it is the strongest laser I have reviewed to date. Check it out.
Affiliate Links:
shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=231720...
Grid Files:
busterbeagle3d.etsy.com/listi... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[FULL EP.13] เซียนหรั่ง พา ไททศมิตร ลงเรือฝึกสกิลหว่านแห | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EWFuf2Av0K0/mqdefault.jpg)
![[풀영상] 2024 김연경 초청 세계여자배구 올스타전 "팀 스타 VS 팀 월드" [유료광고 포함] #김연경 #국가대표 #배구 #배구올스타전 #팀스타 #팀월드](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SUKUgH1ltng/mqdefault.jpg)
Its advertised to be able to cut 0.3mm stainless steel, were you able to test out cutting any thin metals ? Id be super curious if it can cut copper or nickel 0.2mm
Thank you for the great detailed review of the machine!
You bet!
Great job like usual! You are one of the few reviewers I trust!
Would you recommend the Roly Lasermatic MK2 over this one for "normal" home craft use?
Thank you. I appreciate that. Even though I get the machine for free for the review they are not paid advertisements and the companies have no say on what I say so I just call them like I see them.
That was a superb review. You answered every question and then some. I love your well reasoned benefits and pitfalls. The case would be an issue for me as I work in the house. Smoke and fumes would become a real problem. I’m genuinely considering this as my second, large machine. I have the XTOOL F1 at the moment but I’ve already outgrown it with what my customers want. I like that I can switch this to a lower power whilst I adapt but I may look for a better enclosure first.
Thank you for the kind words. Glad it was helpful!
A lot of side information. Thank you for it!
You bet!
Any idea if we are getting an extension with this one???
Looks like a very capable machine. The enclosure I'm not so sure yet 😉 Thanks for the review 👍🏼
Thanks for watching!
Would like to see a comparison with the Atomstack version. Module is the same, but is this worth an extra $600 over the Atomstack?
Nice detailed review. Good work.
Thanks! 👍
This is a great honest critical reveiw of the machine with lots of positives and a few negatives for IKIER to consider. Diode lasers have progressed rapidly during the past two years and back then 70 watts seemed unimaginable. As was mentioned, this is a different wavelength light to that of a 70 watt CO2 laser and the two technologies cannot be compared directly. However this is definiitely an impressive machine. Comments about the need for an enclosure are correct but the obvious lack of fume control (leakage) indicates a design misunderstanding You cannot drink COKE from a glass bottle without removing your lips. You need air flow IN to get fluid flow OUT So it is with this enclosure. The typical rule for extraction is you need about 1.5 times the exctraction duct area of OPEN area to allow air flow THROUGH the machine to carry the fumes away. Sealing all enclosure gaps is the last thing you should consider. Yes, the fan is pathetic and nothing more than a nod to extraction. So why the leakage? The air assist is injecting more air volume into the enclosue than the fan can cope with. Understand the physics and the solution is simple. This is a design issue IKIER should quicly address.
According to your passing comment, bigger gaps to let air will allow the laser light to leakout.. This is very misleading ALL the laser light is being transferred into molecular kinetic energy as it damages the material surface.directly below the nozzle. The light you are seeing is equivalent to a welding arc, very intense and containing nasty spikes of UVB (300nm)and UVC ( 200nm) light in its spectrum.. Not instantly dangerous like laser light but long term exposure will damage your eyes, just like looking at the sun. How efficient is the orange cover at protecting your eyes? Take a look at this graph
www.gsoptics.com/transmission-curves/ You will see that either polycarbonate or acrylic (cloured or not) will absorb 90 % of UVB and 100% of UVC. Running with the lid closed is therefore highly recommended and safe for your eyes. You will also note that at 450 nm clear acrylic is more than 90% transparent, hence the inability of the diode laser to damage it.
You are correct. The intention was never to completely seal the enclosure but to seal it where it counts. I didn't even mention the vents on the side of the enclosure because they should be there for air intake even if they are fairly small. The issue is that smoke rises so when there are gaps around the top of the machine that is what makes my office smell like a camp fire. The leaking light was more to show where the leaking smoke was however I still wouldn't want to take a direct eye shot of it just like I wouldn't want to look at the sun. Plus it's not just bounce light, at the right angle you could potentially catch a glimpse of the laser spot directly through those gaps which negates half of the purpose of an enclosure. While engraving the laser module is almost a full inch above the surface you are engraving on thus making that little built in shield on the front of the laser module almost useless. Without some sort of protection you could easily accidently see the spot which is the same thing as looking directly at a weld or the sun, while it won't blind you it's not good to do it too often. I do think the largest factor is the small fan opening size. Again I even have a very powerful inline fan on other side of the hose that would spin that fan pretty fast even if it wasn't on but it just didn't feel like it was enough.
Just a thought wonder if it’s if it’s possible to put some sort of suction air a bit like a vacuum cleaner but it keeps your project down on the the work Area with a powerful suction and it might help with wood Burning underneath
It’s possible. However that’s a lot more power and noise. Lifting the piece off of a flat surface and using a good air source for the air assist is typically good enough to prevent lots of charring on the part.
Hi,
I am completely in love with that honeycomb-alternative bed thingy.
My problem is that I do a LOT of plywood and I find that cutting plywood makes the glue leak out - which totally messes up the honeycomb. It sticks to the combs and leaves gluey dirt marks on the next work piece and a honeycomb is an utter PAIN to clean because of all those small combs.
I would imagine that this thing can be easily cleaned with a brush?!? That would be SUCH a relief for me.
Did that come with the machine? Is it available separate? What’s the maker? Any suggestions where I can get my hands on one?
I would really really appreciate any hint on where to get this.
Thanks!
It came from the IKier and you can find it on their website. When it comes to your honeycomb you can easily clean it with some degreaser from the dollar store. Just put it in a tub, spray it with the degreaser, I bought mine at Dollar Tree, let it sit for a few minutes and rinse with water. It removes all of the sticky residue.
@@BusterBeagle3D well, so I have to find a tub or basin large enough for roughly 40x40 cm which my wife won’t miss if I use it to put that dirty thing in.
Tough challenge.
Can you use this laser for cutting single, double or triple wall cardboard?
It haven’t cut cardboard with it personally but there is no reason why it shouldn’t be able to. You just have to be careful to not use too much power that can potentially start a fire.
The ridgid metal enclosure is not a great option if you ever want to use a rotary either. Adding the leg extensions on would, in turn, raise the entire encloser. Great video though, you covered just about everything anyone would need to know about a possible purchase of this machine. I have an Ikier 24w and dont have much bad to say about it. Good machine for the price.
Thank you. You are correct that would be an issue with a rotary. I did t get one with the machine so I really didn’t think about it. I still think that the main reason to get this particular version of the machine would be more for its cutting power more than anything else.
lot similaritys with my x30 atomstack. The handheld controller seems the same.
Only thing for me i can't get the belts set correctly, so allways have miss cuts.
Too much of a new newbie, and not spending enough time testing
Yeah I know you want the belts tight but not too tight. I personally didn’t have to do anything to these belts. I didn’t make any adjustments. I just plugged everything in and it worked out of the box.
@@BusterBeagle3D yes the gantries look different/better, happy cutting sir!
@@4_am Maybe a inline belt tensioner to press on the belt. A threaded rod type adjustment that applies pressure onto the belt attached at the machine's outer frame perimeter. If you can 3d print or rig up something to attach the tensioner to the framework, and for each belt if you find its for all the axis's.
Similar to say how a alternator belt on a car engine holds tension, can be with or without a spring if threaded rod is used to adjust tension.
These systems are rather basic/primative in some considerations, innovate yours on demand if and when allowed.
@@truetech4158 thank you for the info, i look into one!
70W laser, now that sounds like it packs a serious punch and comes with some real risks.
No bottom? No grid comes with it?
Nope. Unfortunately not. In fact I’m not sure I’ve ever gotten a laser that came with a grid for some odd reason.
@@BusterBeagle3D That's a shame one of the reasons I really like my Roly is it has a bottom and it came with a grid that fit perfect
This will be PERFECT DIY for rapid dermabrasion treatments like in the movie Logan's Run, provided the A.I. don't go rogue because of an idiology such as a missed payment!
#SebaciousOils
Guess you could wire the fan to the door interlock
Perhaps but at least detaching the power cord from it is easy. I know others where that is not as easily turned off like the Roly Lasermatic.
What price this machine?
Everything as shown runs about $2400 USD.
I agree with you about the cutting panel...I would not get this panel and just purchase a nice honeycomb.
The cutting panel is pretty much the size of the full workable area. Of course with the size of the laser the module can’t reach everywhere which again is why the machine is so long.
@@BusterBeagle3D A newer ideration of such a panel needs to be developed, bridgeable if to achieve full proper diameter of coverage, for early adopters like me that bought the full extension kit for their sculpfuns etc. It can be done though I said to myself, depending on if the goal is to be or not to be.
Been also considering using the laser aimed at fixed and sometimes adjustable angled vertical surfaces with the laser at a 90degree rather than just horizontal surfaces at 0 degrees, just as long as no 1st 2nd or 3d degree burning occurs during the otherwise process toward innovation. (insert John Candy's voice here)
28:46 , or you could cut longer arms with the laser...
Those dot sizes are getting put of hand. I'd like to see better optics and a bit Suze kept to a maximumum of 0.1mm and for it to be square.
I guess we will see a 40w from neje soon enough where priority is given to the laser module and optics.
Agree with others that the enclosure is a little junkie. While I agree lasers should ALWAYS be in an enclosure with good light and smoke control. I think many times custom enclosures do a better job. I always make my own.
where did you see neje is coming out with a new module?..i have the E80 which is 20/24 watts and thats the most powerful they have i believe
That doesn't seem too fast, a 40 watt can cut 3mm at 800mm, you would think a 70 watt would cut at 1200mm or more
I guess all wood is different but from the tests that I ran around 800mm/min was where the cutout would 100% always cut through the material. I ran faster tests and those did mostly cut through but still might have required popping a little bit out. I think this same wood on my 40w was around 500-600mm/min if it remember correctly.
Do you mean a 40W CO2 laser or diode?
@@lucianodaloisio Probably diode, keeping inline with the type of laser shown, and the 40 watt mentioned in this comment thread is a more common diode laser than the 70 or the 50, while the 20 watt is even more common as is the 10, then the 5, down to the laser pointer.
I have even seen 18 as a diode laser output rating, 33, I think 35, 23, etc..and that mustve been determined by using a meter to get a accurate reading of the light intensity of the light beam.
@@lucianodaloisio I was talking about my 40W xTool diode lasers.
got a hacksaw, cut off some of those bolts, lol
Not a bad idea.
This looks like a machine that was shipped before its time. It seems like, gee we’ve got a 70 watt diode module, now let’s get it in a hastily designed enclosure and push it out the door. All the potential laser beam leaks plus the possible smoke leaks show how poorly designed the enclosure really is. Yes, the user can fix many of the light and smoke issues, but why should the user have to worry about those things. Yes, the 70 watt laser is impressive, but the main advantage is how fast the system can move by utilizing the power available. To get accurate engravings requires cutting the power in half. Also, the system is severely constrained in how tall the object can located underneath the laser. Obviously, a rotary is out of the question. The basic mechanics of the gantry and y axis have been very well designed. It’s just too bad the rest of the system and the enclosure were so poorly thought out. Perhaps version two will allow many of the mis-designed elements to be improved.
Not doubting that the enclosure can't be improved, but if you are drawing air out, you have to have a place to draw air in to maintain that flow to pull smoke out. Those gaps might be slightly strategic (but they do seem excessive along that vertical edge on the front)
There are vents on the side that I didn't mention for air intake plus you have the air assist pumping in air when cutting. Those gaps are not intentional I would guess.
I have 1 problem with this
Its so expensive that you can buy a used 130w co2 instead.
Which is much better than diode for various reasons
A used CO2 with a tube you no doubt have to replace.
@@1-Nice-Guy
It can be checked with the proper tool before purchase
But yeah probably yes
How can a youtuber with ''only'' 37k subscribers get a free expensive machine just for a review?...i don't get it.
Not sure if this was an actual question but I have been receiving machines since well before I even had 1 or 2K subscribers. Companies saw some videos I did early on about my injection molding machine and liked them so they offered me a laser engraver for a review. I had never even used a laser engraver before I was offered one. The fact that I’m even a “TH-camr” was never a goal or intentional, it was the companies that reached out and made that a thing. xTool for instance was a very early collaboration and they have sent me at least 5 machines so far but it has generated more than $300K in direct sales and probably 3 to 4 times that in sales of people who bought but didn’t click my links. So for probably a few hundred in actual cost of the machines from the company to potentially a million dollars in sales seems like a good investment. Thanks for watching.
Typical ikear. Details not their strengths.cheap stupid designs.
I can’t justify the price over my 22 W falcon
Yeah it all depends on your needs. If you’re good with 22W there’s no reason to go bigger plus you would have a smaller spot size anyway.